Foundation for long-lasting makeup

Abstract

The present invention relates to a foundation in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, comprising at least one legume starch with an amylose content of at least 30%, at least one plasticizer selected from polyols, at least one oil, at least one emulsifier, and water, the starch being present in a dry matter content of between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the foundation. The present invention also relates to the use of such a foundation for improving makeup durability, preferably for improving resistance to sweat and sebum.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The object of the present invention is a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, comprising at least one legume starch with an amylose content of at least 30%, at least one plasticizer chosen from polyols, at least one oil and at least one emulsifier. The invention also relates to the use of such a complexion base for improving the long-wearing properties of a make-up over time, preferably for improving its resistance to sweat and sebum. [Background technology]

[0002] Products for making up keratinous materials, especially skin foundations, are usually applied in the form of a uniform thin layer.Nevertheless, due to the secretion of sebum and / or sweat, the color and matte effect provided by skin foundations tend to deteriorate throughout the day.Therefore, there is a continuous effort to improve the maintenance of color over time, so that the color is not deteriorated or diminished throughout the day by the effect of sebum or sweat.It is also desirable that the improvement of the durability of makeup is not accompanied by difficulties for users when removing makeup.

[0003] In order to provide a good retention of color and mattness of a makeup composition, it is known to provide a complexion base which generally comprises an absorbent charge intended to absorb sebum and sweat and thus provide all-day protection for the makeup.

[0004] The complexion base may also incorporate a film-forming polymer to form a protective film before the application of makeup. Nevertheless, film-forming complexion bases have recently used synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or polyvinyl acetate (PVA). However, consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetics that are essentially composed of natural or naturally derived ingredients with as little chemical modification as possible. The suppression of synthetic functional ingredients or their replacement by naturally derived ingredients is the main axis of the development of new cosmetics. However, the introduction of these natural or naturally derived ingredients is accompanied by a deterioration of the properties of the cosmetics in terms of appearance, application or cosmetic properties. These insufficient or deteriorated cosmetic properties are detrimental to the image of the product.

[0005] Furthermore, the use of a complexion base before applying make-up is often accompanied by a burling phenomenon when applying the make-up, which of course should be avoided. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] FR-A-2759377 [Patent Document 2] WO 04 / 055081 [Patent Document 3] FR-A-2232303 [Patent Document 4] US5,162,410 [Patent Document 5] WO 2004 / 073626 [Patent Document 6] US-A-5,874,069 [Patent Document 7] US-A-5,919,441 [Patent Document 8] US-A-6,051,216 [Patent Document 9] US-A-5,981,680 [Patent Document 10] US5236986 [Patent Document 11] US5412004 [Patent Document 12] US5837793 [Patent Document 13] US5811487 [Patent Document 14] WO 2007 / 1068371 [Patent Document 15] WO 2008 / 155059 [Patent Document 16] WO 2008 / 15505 [Patent Document 17] U.S. Patent Application No. 2004-175338 [Patent Document 18] EP-A-847752 [Patent Document 19] FR-A-2792190 [Patent Document 20] WO 98 / 38981 [Patent Document 21] U.S. Patent No. 6,309,629 [Patent Document 22] French Patent No. 2 679 771 [Patent Document 23] European Patent No. 1 184 426 [Patent Document 24] WO 2006 / 134282 [Patent Document 25] WO 2009 / 010356 [Non-patent literature]

[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] Ullmann's Encyclopedia Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] There is therefore still a need for a complexion base incorporating natural or naturally derived ingredients that is capable of forming a homogeneous, comfortable, continuous film on keratinous materials, that can ensure a long-lasting make-up that is resistant in particular to sweat and sebum, that is easy to remove while not transferring and that does not bark during application.

[0009] The applicant has unexpectedly discovered that such a complexion base can be obtained by combining highly specific legume starches, plasticizers and emulsifiers in a cosmetic emulsion. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] Therefore, according to a first aspect, the object of the present invention is a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, at least one legume starch having an amylose content of at least 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%, at least one plasticizer chosen from polyols, at least one oil, at least one emulsifier, - Water and Including, It is understood that the starch is present in a dry matter content ranging from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the complexion base, It is based on complexion.

[0011] According to a second aspect, another object of the invention is a method for preparing such a complexion base.

[0012] According to a third aspect, yet another object of the invention is a method for making up or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which consists in applying to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, a complexion base as described above.

[0013] Finally, an object of the invention is the cosmetic use of a complexion base as described above for improving the retention of makeup over time, preferably for improving resistance to sweat and to sebum. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0014] Galenic preparations The complexion base according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

[0015] Legume starch The composition according to the invention comprises at least one legume starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferentially between 30% and 75%.

[0016] In particular, the amylose content is in the range of 30% to 75%, preferably 30% to 45%, more preferably 35% to 40%. The percentage of amylose is expressed by dry weight relative to the dry weight of starch and is determined before any subsequent treatment, such as hydrolysis and / or alkylation of said starch.

[0017] The legume starch also has a Brookfield viscosity at 20% dry matter in an aqueous dispersion at 25° C. of between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferentially between 20 and 5000 mPa.s, more preferentially between 50 and 1000 mPa.s, most preferentially between 75 and 500 mPa.s and even more preferentially around 150 mPa.s.

[0018] The Brookfield viscosity at 20% by weight dry matter in the aqueous dispersion at 25° C. is preferably between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferentially between 20 and 5000 mPa.s, more preferentially between 50 and 1000 mPa.s, most preferentially between 75 and 500 mPa.s, even more preferentially around 150 mPa.s. These different Brookfield viscosities can be combined with different amylose contents.

[0019] Viscosity within the meaning of the present invention is the Brookfield viscosity determined, for example, by a Brookfield RDVD-I+ viscometer (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, INC., Middleboro, MA, USA), with one of the spindle references RV1, RV2, RV3, RV4, RV5, RV6 or RV7, without the use of an apparatus called "Helipath Stand". The rotation of the spindle is fixed at 20 revolutions per minute. The spindles RV1 to RV7 are selected so that the viscosity value presented is between 10% and 100% of the total viscosity scale possible for said spindle, as indicated by the manufacturer. To carry out this measurement of viscosity, 300 ml of an aqueous suspension or solution with 20% by weight dry matter of starch prepared at 25° C. with mechanical stirring, for example with a peptizing blade at 250 rpm for 15 minutes, is placed in a 400 ml low profile beaker (diameter approximately 7.5 cm). The viscosity value is taken at the end of the third rotation. The measurements are made following all of the recommendations given by the manufacturer, for example in the manual "Operating Instructions, Manual No. M / 92-021-M0101, Brookfield Digital Viscometer, Model DV-I+), for obtaining reliable viscosity measurements.

[0020] "Leguminous" within the meaning of the present invention means any plant belonging to the Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae families, in particular any plant belonging to the Papilionaceae family, such as the pea, common bean, broad bean, horse bean, lentil or lupin.

[0021] Thus, the Leguminous starch may be selected from pea starch, chickpea starch, broad-bean starch, horse-bean starch, kidney bean starch or lentil starch.

[0022] According to a preferred embodiment, the legume starch is pea starch, most preferentially pea (Pisum sativum) starch.

[0023] Furthermore, the legume starch may be a natural starch that has been pregelatinized or a chemically modified starch, which is optionally pregelatinized.

[0024] The chemically modified legume starches can be selected from legume starches that have undergone at least one chemical modification, preferably at least two, selected from hydroxyalkylation, carboxyalkylation, hydrolysis, dextrinization, succinylation, alkylation, acetylation, cationization or anionization, these chemical modifications being modifications for stabilizing the legume starch, in other words for stabilizing the viscosity in aqueous solutions, in that they make it possible to reduce or eliminate the retrogradation of the gel or of the aqueous solution of said starch.

[0025] Thus, the modified legume starch used in the context of the present invention may be a hydroxyalkylated, carboxyalkylated or hydrolyzed legume starch, a dextrin, or a combination thereof.

[0026] According to a preferred embodiment, the legume starch used in the context of the present invention is a hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated legume starch. According to one particularly preferred variant, the legume starch used in the context of the present invention is a hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated legume starch.

[0027] "Hydroxypropylated legume starch" within the meaning of the present invention means a legume starch substituted by hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to the person skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide. In the context of the present invention, hydroxypropylated legume starch preferably has a hydroxypropyl group content of between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight, preferentially between 1 and 10% by weight, more preferentially between 5 and 9% by weight, in particular close to 7% by weight, based on the dry weight of the hydroxypropylated starch. This content is determined in particular by proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, in particular according to EN ISO 11543:2002 F.

[0028] "Hydrolyzed legume starch" means, within the meaning of the present invention, a legume starch that has been subjected to a hydrolysis operation, i.e. an operation aimed at reducing its average molecular mass. The skilled person knows how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatment, such as oxidation and acid treatment, or by enzymatic treatment. The skilled person will naturally adjust the level of hydrolysis of the starch, and therefore the level of fluidity, depending on the required viscosity.

[0029] In the context of the present invention, the starches hydrolyzed and optionally pregelatinized and / or chemically modified other than those mentioned above preferably have a mass average molecular weight between 1 and 2000 kDa, preferably between 10 and 1000 kDa, most preferably between 20 and 1000 kDa and even more preferentially between 100 and 1000 kDa. For example, the molecular weight may be between 200 and 800 kDa, between 200 and 500 kDa, between 200 and 400 kDa or between 200 and 300 kDa. The mass average molecular weight is determined by HPSEC-MALLS (High Performance Size Exclusion Chromatography combined with online multi-angle laser light scattering).

[0030] In particular, the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis will preferably be non-granular.

[0031] Hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated starches which may be used in a preferred manner in the context of the present invention are commercially available, for example, under the trade names LYCOAT RS 720 or LYCOAT NG 720 from the company Roquette Freres.

[0032] Apart from these chemical modifications, the starches according to the invention may further be subjected to physical treatments, in particular chosen from the known operations of gelatinization, pregelatinization, extrusion, micronization or drying, microwave or ultrasonic treatment operations, plasticization or granulation.

[0033] In particular, the starch according to the invention may preferably be solubilized. It may be solubilized by any technique known to the person skilled in the art, in particular by thermal and / or mechanical treatment, for example by a baking operation in an aqueous medium (pregelatinization), optionally followed by a drying step when it is required to obtain a powdered product. The operations aimed at solubilizing the starch may take place entirely before or after the alkylation and / or hydrolysis of the starch. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated starch is pregelatinized. Such a starch is commercially available under the name LYCOAT RS 720 from the company Roquette Freres. Instead of pregelatinization, it is possible to gelatinize the starch during the preparation of the composition in which it is to be used.

[0034] The optionally pregelatinized, hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated legume starches according to the invention may also contain any other physical and / or chemical modifications, provided that these do not interfere with the required properties of said starch. One example of a chemical modification is in particular cross-linking.

[0035] Plasticizer The complexion base according to the invention also comprises at least one plasticizer chosen from polyols.

[0036] Polyol refers to any organic molecule that has at least two free hydroxy (-OH) groups in its structure. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25°C).

[0037] As examples of polyols which are suitable for incorporation into the complexion base, they may be selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycol (PEG) in particular having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and / or sorbitol.

[0038] The polyols are preferably glycerol and sorbitol, more preferably in admixture with pentylene glycol.

[0039] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the complexion base according to the invention does not contain any plasticizers other than the polyols mentioned above.

[0040] According to one particular embodiment, the complexion base according to the invention comprises between 10 and 30% by weight, and preferably between 13 and 25% by weight, of polyol relative to the total weight of the complexion base.

[0041] In detail, the complexion base is - 5 to 25% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the composition; - 3 to 6% by weight of sorbitol relative to the total weight of the composition; - 2 to 3% by weight of pentylene glycol based on the total weight of the composition; may include.

[0042] aqueous phase The complexion base according to the present invention also comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and, optionally, at least one water-soluble solvent other than the polyols described above.

[0043] By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (greater than 50% by weight miscible in water at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

[0044] The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention may be volatile.

[0045] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and in particular having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0046] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

[0047] The incorporation of monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 5 carbon atoms, promotes and accelerates the drying of the coating.

[0048] According to one particular embodiment, the complexion base according to the invention comprises between 25 and 65% by weight, and preferably between 30 and 60% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the complexion base.

[0049] Hydrophilic gelling agents The complexion base according to the present invention may also include a hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0050] Gelling agents are understood to mean compounds which, in the presence of a solvent, create more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds, thus giving rise to a three-dimensional lattice which immobilizes said solvent.

[0051] The hydrophilic gelling agents may be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, in particular sulfonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.

[0052] Among the polysaccharides that may be mentioned are: algae extracts, such as agar, carrageenan (iota, kappa, lambda), especially Na or Ca, alginates; microbial exudates, such as xanthan gum and its derivatives, such as the product sold under the name "Rheosan" by the company Rhodia Chimie, gellan gum sold under the name "Kelcogel F" by the company Nutrasweet-Kelco, or iota carrageenan sold under the name "Seaspan PF 357" or "Viscarin SD 389" by the company FMC, or sclerotium gum available under the name Naturajel® from the company DIY Cosmetics or under Amigel® from the company Alban Muller, or sclerotium rolfssii gum produced by the bacterium soybean southern blight (Sclerotium) rolfssii; - Fruit extracts, e.g. pectin, gelling agents of animal origin, such as protein derivatives, in particular bovine or fish gelatin, or caseinates; - a polysaccharide having side chains and six neutral sugars as described in document FR-A-2 759 377, - and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Among the polyacrylates that may be mentioned are the crosslinked 25 EO polymer of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and polyoxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), such as that sold under the name Novethix L-10 Polymer by the company Lubrizol Advanced Materials, or Rheostyl™ 90 N (INCI: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) from the company Arkema.

[0054] The hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof, such as the mixture sold under the name Actigum VSX 20 by the company Cargill.

[0055] According to one preferred embodiment, the mixture of xanthan gum and sclerotium gum has a mass ratio (xanthan:sclerotium) between 1:2 and 2:1.

[0056] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the complexion base according to the invention in a concentration that may range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the complexion base.

[0057] emulsifier The complexion base according to the present invention may also include an emulsifier.

[0058] These emulsifiers can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or polymeric surfactants.

[0059] According to one embodiment, surfactants that may be used in the context of the present invention are chosen from non-ionic surfactants having an HLB of between 8 and 20 at 25° C. Mention may in particular be made of: - esters and ethers of, for example, cetylstearylglucoside with a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, such as Montanov 68 from Seppic; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups); - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers of fatty alcohols (in particular C8 to C24, preferably C12 to C18), which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups, such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol having 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), the oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol ether having 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), the oxyethylenated ethers of a mixture of C12 to C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7"), in particular those sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by the company Shell Chemicals, - fatty acid esters (in particular with C8 to C24, preferably C16 to C22 acids) and polyethylene glycols (which may contain from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as, for example, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, sold in particular under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI Uniquema, or PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, sold in particular under the name TAGAT S® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; - fatty acid esters, in particular of acids with C8 to C24, preferably C16 to C22, and also oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups, such as, in particular, the PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM by the company Seppic; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate having 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat S sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate having 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat O sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, polyethoxylated coco-glyceryl having 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Varionic LI sold by the company Sherex. 13 (registered trademark), polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate having 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product Tagat L (registered trademark) sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate having 30 ethylene oxide groups, such as the product TAGAT I (registered trademark) from the company Evonik Goldschmidt, fatty acid esters (in particular of C8 to C24, preferably C16 to C22 acids) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20, in particular sold under the name Tween 20® by the company Croda, and polysorbate 60, in particular sold under the name Tween 60® by the company Croda; dimethicone copolyols, such as those sold under the name Q2-5220® by Dow Corning; dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® from Fintex); - Copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called OE / OP polycondensates, - lysophospholipids, in particular lysophosphatidylcholine, having the following chemical formula [chemical formula 1]:

[0060] [ka]

[0061] where R is a fatty acid chain especially containing from 10 to 25, preferably from 15 to 20, carbon atoms. Preferably, the lysophospholipids used in the compositions of the invention are derived from soybean seeds. More preferably, its INCI name is glycine soya (soybean) seed extract. For example, a mixture of 80% by weight glycerin and 20% by weight glycine soya (soybean) seed extract sold under the name Lysofix Liquid® by the company Kemin is used; emulsifying waxes, such as the self-emulsifying wax sold under the name Polawax NF by the company Croda, or beeswax PEG=8 sold under the name Apifil by the company Gattefossé; and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier having an HLB between 8 and 20 is selected from fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes, such as self-emulsifying waxes or hydrolyzed waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Lysophospholipids, such as Lysofix Liquid®, impart thickening to the composition, thus improving its spreadability.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the surfactants that may be used in the emulsions according to the invention are chosen from non-ionic surfactants having an HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25° C. Mention may in particular be made of: esters and ethers of sucrose, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers of fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24, preferably C12-C18 alcohols), which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups, for example oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol ether having 2 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "steareth-2"); - esters of fatty acids (especially C8 to C24, preferably C16 to C22 acids) with polyols, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for example the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate, for example the product sold under the name Imwitor 312® by the company Huls, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, sorbitan tristearate and glyceryl ricinoleate, lecithins, such as soy lecithins (for example Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer); - A mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by Dow Corning.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant having an HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25° C. is chosen from esters of fatty acids with polyols, preferably polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, such as that sold under the name Cithrol PG32IS-LQ by the company Croda (INCI, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate).

[0066] The composition according to the present invention may contain an emulsifier in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass, and more preferably 0.2 to 13% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0067] Film-forming agents The complexion base according to the invention may also contain additional film-forming agents other than starch, in particular film-forming polymers.

[0068] Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers of radical or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] By radical film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerizing unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each of which may be homopolymerized (as distinct from a polycondensate).

[0070] The film-forming polymer of the radical type may in particular be a vinyl polymer or copolymer, in particular an acrylic polymer.

[0071] Vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

[0072] As monomers carrying an acid group, α,β ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids can be used, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. Preferably, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and crotonic acid are used, more preferentially itaconic acid (such as the metal salts of polyitaconic acid, such as that sold under the name RevCare NE 100S by the company Itaconix).

[0073] The esters of acid monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of methacrylic acid (also called methacrylates), in particular alkyl methacrylates, in particular C1-C30, preferably C1-C20 alkyl, aryl methacrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl methacrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

[0074] Among the alkyl methacrylates that may be mentioned are methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate.

[0075] Among the hydroxyalkyl methacrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0076] Among the aryl methacrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0077] Particularly preferred methacrylic acid esters are alkyl methacrylates.

[0078] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the ester may be fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are replaced with fluorine atoms.

[0079] Among the amides of the acid monomers, mention may be made, for example, of methacrylamide and of the specific N-alkyl methacrylamides, in particular C2 to C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl methacrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

[0080] Vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers, in particular with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

[0081] Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned are vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl tert-butyl benzoate.

[0082] Among the styrene monomers that may be mentioned are styrene and alpha-methylstyrene.

[0083] Among the film-forming polycondensates that may be mentioned are the polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

[0084] The polyurethane may be selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The polyesters can be obtained in known manner by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular with diols.

[0086] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid or terephthalic acid are preferably selected.

[0087] The diol can be selected from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic diols. Preferably used are diols selected from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that can be used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol or trimethylolpropane.

[0088] Polyesteramides can be obtained in a similar manner to polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols. As diamines, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

[0089] The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one -SO3M group, where M represents a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+, or a metal ion such as Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ion. In particular, a difunctional aromatic monomer containing such a -SO3M group may be used.

[0090] The aromatic core of the difunctional aromatic monomer further carrying a -SO3M group as described above may be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl or methylenediphenyl cores. Examples of difunctional aromatic monomers further carrying a -SO3M group that may be mentioned are sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

[0091] It is preferable to use isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate based copolymers, more particularly those obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid.

[0092] The optionally modified polymers of natural origin can be chosen from shellac resin, sandalwood gum, acacia senegal gum, damace, elemis, copalus, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruits of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or from the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii (for example the product Filmexel® sold by the company Silab), and mixtures thereof. Natural polymers, such as and in particular Filmexel®, improve the strength of the films obtained from the compositions according to the invention.

[0093] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may also be present in the aqueous continuous phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0094] According to a second embodiment, the film-forming polymer can also be present in the composition of the invention in the form of particles in a dispersion, generally known by the term latex or pseudolatex, in an aqueous or non-aqueous solvent phase. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0095] As aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers, those which can be used are the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl A-523® by Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Chemical under the name Dow Latex 432®, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by Daito Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., Syntran 5760® by Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene-acrylic polymers sold under the brand name Joncryl® by Johnson Polymer, or Avecia-Neoresins under the name Neorez aqueous dispersions of polyurethanes sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomere PAM by Chimex, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers that may be mentioned are acrylic dispersions in isododecane, such as Mexomere PAP® from the company CHIMEX, dispersions of particles of grafted ethylene polymers, preferably acrylic, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylene polymers advantageously dispersed on the surface of the particles in the absence of additional stabilizers, as described in particular in document WO 04 / 055081.

[0097] According to a third embodiment, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising an oil or an organic solvent (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer).

[0098] By way of example of liposoluble polymers, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (wherein the vinyl group is directly bonded to the oxygen atom of the ester group, the vinyl ester having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon group of 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer (different from the vinyl ester already present) which may be a vinyl ester, an α-olefin (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (whose alkyl group contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon group of 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group).

[0099] These copolymers may be crosslinked with crosslinkers which may be either of the vinyl type or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyloctanedioate, divinyldodecanedioate and divinyloctadecanediate.

[0100] By way of example of these copolymers there may be mentioned the following copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate. Vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene.

[0101] Further lipophilic film-forming polymers which may be mentioned are lipophilic copolymers, in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, or allyl groups having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0102] Such lipophilic copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of polyvinyl stearate, of polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, of polystearyl methacrylate, of polyvinyl laurate, of polylauryl methacrylate, these polymethacrylates may be crosslinked with methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0103] The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are described in particular in FR-A-2 232 303; they may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500,000, preferably from 4000 to 200,000.

[0104] Mention may also be made of fat-soluble homopolymers, in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0105] Examples of liposoluble homopolymers that may be mentioned in particular are polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl methacrylate, which polymethacrylates may be crosslinked by ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0106] Further examples of lipophilic film-forming polymers that may be used in the present invention include polyalkylenes, in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutenes, saturated or unsaturated alkylcelluloses with C1-C8 linear or branched alkyl groups, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP), in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with C2-C40, and better still with C3-C20 alkenes. By way of example, mention may be made of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, and VP / methacrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate copolymers.

[0107] Mention may also be made of silicone resins, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils. Silicone resins are known by the name "MDTQ" and are described by the various siloxane monomer units, each of which contains the letters "MDTQ" characterizing the type of unit.

[0108] By way of example of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold by the company Wacker under the name Resin MK, for example Belsil PMS MK, and by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name KR-220L.

[0109] Among the siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned are the trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins, such as those sold by General Electric under the name SR1000 or by Wacker under the name TMS 803. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in solvents, such as the cyclomethicones sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name "KF-7312J" and by Dow Corning under the names "Dowsil® RSN-0749" and "Dowsil® 593 Fluid".

[0110] Mention may also be made of the copolymers of the silicone resins cited above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold under the name BIO-PSA by the company Dow Corning and described in document US 5,162,410, or silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of silicone resins such as those mentioned above with diorganosiloxanes such as those described in document WO 2004 / 073626.

[0111] Finally, mention may be made of the acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers containing dendrimeric carboxysiloxane structures grafted onto a vinyl backbone, sold under the trade names Dow Corning FA 4002 ID or Dow Corning FA 4001 CM.

[0112] Also usable are silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type, such as those described in documents US Pat. No. 5,874,069, US Pat. No. 5,919,441, US Pat. No. 6,051,216 and US Pat. No. 5,981,680.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the additional film-forming polymer is chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin, preferably from the fruits of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or from the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii (for example the product Filmexel® sold by the company Silab).

[0114] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain any film-forming polymer other than legume starch.

[0115] Silicone Elastomer The complexion base according to the present invention may also include a silicone elastomer.

[0116] The addition of a silicone elastomer makes it possible in particular to limit the phenomenon of fluffing which tends to become evident when the compositions according to the invention are applied.

[0117] Among these, mention may be made of at least partially crosslinked polymers obtained from the reaction of organopolysiloxanes bearing unsaturated groups, such as vinyl or allyl groups, preferably located at the end or in the middle of the chain on silicon atoms, with other reactive silicone compounds, such as organohydrogenopolysiloxanes. These polymers are usually available in the form of gels in volatile or non-volatile silicone solvents or in hydrocarbon solvents. Examples of such elastomers are in particular sold under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-16, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and under the trade names Dowsil® 9040 and Dowsil® 9041 by Dow Corning. Another oil-based gelling agent consists of a silicone polymer obtained by autopolymerization of an organopolysiloxane functionalized with epoxy groups and hydrosilylated in the presence of a catalyst, which is sold by General Electric under the name Velvesil® 125. Another lipophilic gelling agent consists of cyclic dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone copolymers, such as those sold by the company Jeen under the name Jeesilc® PS (including PS-VH, PS-VHLV, PS-CM, PS-CMLV and PS-DM).

[0118] According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer may be emulsifying and is preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

[0119] Among the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be mentioned are those described in US Pat. No. 5,236,986, US Pat. No. 5,412,004, US Pat. No. 5,837,793, US Pat. No. 5,811,487.

[0120] As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers the following can be used: those with the INCI name PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as those sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20";- those with the INCI name Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as those sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names "KSG-30" and "KSG-31", "KSG-32" (in isododecane), "KSG-33" (in trioctanoin), "KSG-210", "KSG-310" (in mineral oil), "KSG-320" (in isododecane), "KSG-330", "KSG-340".

[0121] As polyglycerol silicone elastomers the following can be used: those with the INCI name Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, for example sold under the name "KSG-710" by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., those with the INCI name Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, for example sold under the name "KSG-840" (in squalene) by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0122] oil The complexion base according to the invention may comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] "Volatile oil" in the sense of the present invention means an oil that is prone to evaporate in less than one hour in contact with keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvents and volatile oils of the present invention have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 at 300 mm). -3 In particular, organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

[0124] The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 7 to 16 carbon atoms. As volatile hydrocarbon oils having 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may in particular be made of C8 to C16 branched alkanes, such as C8 to C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8 to C16 branched esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms are selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, in particular isododecane.

[0125] The volatile oil may be a volatile linear alkane. According to one embodiment, the alkane suitable for the present invention may be a volatile linear alkane containing 7 to 14 carbon atoms. Such a volatile linear alkane may advantageously be of vegetable origin. By way of example of alkanes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 1068371 or WO 2008 / 155059 of the company Cognis (different mixtures of alkanes differentiated by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 15505 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), sold under the name Cetiol Ultimate by BASF. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold under the names PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively, by Sasol, and mixtures thereof. It will be possible to use the volatile linear alkanes alone or preferentially as mixtures of at least two different volatile linear alkanes, which differ from each other by at least one carbon atom, in particular by one or two carbon atoms.

[0126] The volatile oil may be a volatile silicone oil, such as cyclic polysiloxane, linear polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof.As linear volatile polysiloxane, mention may be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.As cyclic volatile polysiloxane, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

[0127] In one variation or in addition, the composition produced may comprise at least one fluorinated volatile oil.

[0128] "Non-volatile oils" are oils that remain on keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular for up to 10 -3 By this we mean an oil having a vapour pressure of less than mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0129] The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon or fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0130] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be mentioned in particular are: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, for example C4 to C36, preferably C11 to C21 linear alkanes, such as phytosqualane or Emogreen L15 (C15 to C19 alkane) from Seppic, or for example phytostearyl esters, such as Phytostearyl Oleate, Phytostearyl Isostearate and Phytostearyl Lauroyl / Octyldodecyl / Glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular where the fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, in particular from C18 to C36; these oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy seed, decanted gourd, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, candleberry or passion flower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, Argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, cabbage oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, copra oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, maize oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, scented coconut oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil pip oil), kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, decagonal gourd oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, Muscat rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, - synthetic esters, for example oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain, especially containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is ≧10. These esters may in particular be chosen from: alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, for example isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearic acid or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoic acid esters, in particular heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic or isostearyl ricinoleate of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example dioctanoic acid Propylene glycol, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate, and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 benzoic alcohol, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl pentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydrogenated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearic acid / tetraisostearic acid, dimer diol esters and dimer diacid esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by Nippon Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd. and described in US Patent Application No. 2004-175338; - dimer diol and dimer diacid copolymers and their esters, for example dimer dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinol copolymers and their esters, for example Plandool-G; - polyol and dimeric diacid copolymers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA; - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain with 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-blatyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; - C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof; dialkyl carbonates, in which the two alkyl chains can be the same or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis; oils with a high molar mass, in particular with a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular from approximately 750 to approximately 7500 g / mol, more particularly from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g / mol; - silicone oils, such as phenylated silicones, for example BELSIL PDM 1000 (MM=9000 g / mol) from Wacker. Other non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMS containing pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone-terminated chain groups, each of which has from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenol trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl siloxy silicate, with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone, with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof. Fluorinated oils which may be used according to the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752.

[0131] wax The complexion base according to the present invention may comprise at least one wax.

[0132] Waxes considered in the context of the present invention are lipophilic compounds in general terms that are solid at room temperature (25°C) with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and have a melting point above 30°C, which may range up to 120°C.

[0133] In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may have a melting point above approximately 45° C., in particular above 55° C. The melting point of the wax can be measured by a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Metler.

[0134] The waxes that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes, deformable or non-deformable at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, metallic or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20° C. using a texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of diameter 2 mm moving at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

[0136] It is especially possible to use hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, auricuri wax, espartograss wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and haze wax; montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin and ozokerite; beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters. A mixture of jojoba wax, mimosa wax and sunflower wax is sold, for example, under the name ACTICIRE MP by the company Gattefosse. In particular, the hydrocarbon wax can be chosen from carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof.

[0137] Other examples include C8~C 32 It is a wax obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains.

[0138] Among these, mention may especially be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated ricin oil, hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company Heterene, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company Heterene.

[0139] Also usable are waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as ricin or olive oil, for example the waxes sold by the company Sophim under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2792190.

[0140] Furthermore, silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably having a low melting point, can be used, which are known and can be prepared according to known methods. Among the commercially available silicone waxes of this type, mention may especially be made of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) or VP 1622 and 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric), alkyl- or alkoxy dimethicones, such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (Goldschmidt), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker), and also (C20-C60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by GE-Bayer Silicones.

[0141] Hydrocarbon-based waxes modified with silicone-based or fluorinated groups may also be used, such as siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax, and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

[0142] The wax may also be selected from fluorinated waxes.

[0143] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax known as a tacky wax. As tacky waxes it is possible to use, alone or in mixtures, C20-C40 alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearates (alkyl radicals containing 20-40 carbon atoms), in particular C20-C40 alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy)stearates. Such waxes are in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

[0144] According to one preferred embodiment, the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes, preferably from carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Lipophilic gelling agents Another type of lipophilic gelling agent is formed by copolymers of styrene with olefins such as ethylene, propylene and / or butylene, optionally with silicone or hydrocarbon solvents, as described in particular in patent application WO 98 / 38981 and US Pat. No. 6,309,629. They include gelling agents based on sequenced terpolymers, available in particular under the trade name VersageL from the company Penreco. Another type of lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamides, such as those identified by the INCI name Polyamide-3, in particular the polymers Sylvaclear AF 1900V and PA 1200V available from Arizona Chemical, and those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkylamide", such as the polyamides available under the trade names Sylvaclear A200V or Sylvaclear A2614V from Arizona Chemical. The lipophilic gelling agent may in one variant be a bentone or a hydrophobically modified hectorite.

[0146] Coloring agent The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise a colorant selected from pigments, nacres, soluble dyes, preferably water-soluble dyes.

[0147] By "pigments" it should be understood that inorganic or organic, white or colored particles insoluble in aqueous media, intended to color and / or opacify the complexion base and / or the resulting film.

[0148] The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

[0149] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment, it is to be understood any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments of Ullmann's Encyclopedia. In particular, the organic pigment may be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoleine, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine compounds of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, dicethopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0150] Organic pigments are, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, solgo red, blue pigments classified in the Colour Index with the reference numbers C1 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Colour Index with the reference numbers Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments classified in the Colour Index with the reference numbers Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments classified in the Colour Index with the reference numbers Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments classified in the Colour Index with the reference numbers CI In particular, the pigments may be selected from the red pigments classified under the designations 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and from the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2 679 771.

[0151] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may in particular be composed of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least partially coated with an organic pigment and comprising at least one binder which fixes the organic pigment to the core.

[0152] The pigment may also be a lacquer. Lacquer means an insolubilized dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, so that all obtained remain insoluble during use. An example of a lacquer that may be mentioned is the product known by the name D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0153] The pigment may be a metallic pigment. Metallic pigment means any pigment according to the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments of Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Among the metallic pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. Metallic pigments of Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 can also be used in mixtures with TiCO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0154] The size of the pigments useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 μm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 1 μm.

[0155] The colorant may also be a soluble dye, preferably soluble in water.

[0156] Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine, or the product known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0157] The nacre can be chosen from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. In a variant, it can be a nacre based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide (Sunshine® from Maprecos), based on calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (Reflecks® from Engelhard) or based on calcium aluminium borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (Ronastar® from Merck).

[0158] The complexion base according to the present invention may contain 0.0001 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.001 to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.002 to 15% by mass of a colorant relative to the total mass of the complexion base according to the present invention.

[0159] Filler The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, in particular those intended to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

[0160] The fillers may be inorganic or organic fillers of any shape, plate-like, spherical or oval, and may be in any crystallographic morphology (eg, flake, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica surface-treated with hydrophobic agents, kaolin, polyamide powder (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powder of tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymer hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile chloride, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industries), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba Corporation), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica® from Maprecos). Beads®), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as magnesium stearate, lithium stearate or zinc stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

[0161] Cosmetic active substances The complexion base according to the present invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active, which may be selected from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, hydrating agents, anti-pollutant agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents, whitening agents, self-tanning agents, and agents that promote the microenvironment.

[0162] Examples of vitamins include vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C and E and their derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, and biotin.

[0163] Examples of antioxidants include ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl sorbate; tocopherol and its derivatives, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters; BHT and BHA; esters of gallic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid and fumaric acid, cephalin, hexametaphosphate, phytic acid and plant extracts, such as Zingiber officinale root, e.g. Blue Malagasy Ginger sold by Biolandes, Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, Yerba mate leaves, oak wood, Kayu lapet. Rapet bark, cherry leaf and ylang-ylang leaf.

[0164] Examples of hydrating agents include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol and mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid of high or low molecular weight or hyaluronic acid synergized with silanol derivatives, such as Epidermosil® activator sold by Exymol, and mucoitin sulfate; caronic acid; atelocollagen; chloresteryl-12-hydroxystearate; bile salts, the main components of NHF (Natural Hydration Factor), such as pyrrolidone carboxylates and lactates, amino acid analogues such as urea, cysteine ​​and serine; short-chain soluble collagens, PPG diglycerin, homo- and copolymers of 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, such as Lipidure HM and Lipidure® from NOF. PBM; allantoin; glycerin derivatives, such as PEG / PPG / polybutylene glycol-8 / 5 / 3 glycerin sold under the name Wilbride® S753 by NOF, or glyceryl-polymethacrylate sold under the name Lubragel® MS by Sederma; trimethylglycine sold under the name Aminocoat® by Asahi Kasei Corporation, and extracts of various plants, such as extracts of Castanea sativa, hydrolyzed hazelnut protein, polysaccharides of tuberosa polyanthes, Argania spinosa kernel oil, and especially extracts of nacre containing conchiolin, sold under the name Pearl Extract® by Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. (Japan).

[0165] Other examples of wettable powders include compounds that stimulate the expression of matriptase MT / SP1, such as extracts of carob pulp, and agents that stimulate the expression of CERT, ARNT2 or FN3K or FN3K RP; agents that enhance the proliferation or differentiation of keratinocytes, either directly or indirectly, for example by stimulating the production of β-endorphin, such as extracts of Thermus thermophilus or Theobroma cacao bean husks, aqueous extracts of maize, peptide extracts of Voandzeia subterranean and niacinamide; epidermal lipids and agents that enhance the synthesis of epidermal lipids directly or by stimulating certain β-glucosidases that regulate the deglycosylation of lipid precursors, such as glucosylceramide, to ceramide, such as phospholipids, ceramides, lupin protein hydrolysates and dihydrojasmonic acid derivatives.

[0166] Examples of anti-staining agents include extracts of Moringa pterygosperma seed extract (e.g., Purisoft® from LSN); shea butter extract (e.g., Detoxyl® from Silab); a mixture of ivy extract, phytic acid and sunflower seed extract (e.g., Osmopur® from Sederma).

[0167] Examples of keratolytic agents include alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid or tartaric acid), and beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., salicylic acid), as well as their esters, e.g., C12-13 alkyl lactates, and extracts of plants containing these hydroxy acids, e.g., extracts of Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa).

[0168] Examples of astringents include extracts of the genus Witch hazel.

[0169] Examples of anti-inflammatory agents include bisabolol, allantoin, tranexamic acid, zinc oxide, sulfur oxide and derivatives thereof, chondroitin sulfate, glycyrrhizic acid and derivatives thereof such as glycyrrhizic acid.

[0170] Examples of whitening agents include arbutin and its derivatives, ferulic acid (for example Cytovector® sold by BASF: water, glycol, leucine, ferulic acid, hydroxyethylcellulose) and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol, lipoic acid and its derivatives, for example resveratrol monolipoate diacetate as described in patent application WO 2006 / 134282, ellagic acid, leucodopachrome and its derivatives, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, peptides as described in patent application WO 2009 / 010356, bioprecursors or tranexamates as described in patent application WO 2006 / 134282, in particular as sold under the name Liquorice extract® by Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., a whitening agent which also has an antioxidant effect, cetyl tranexamate hydrochloride, licorice extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) glabra), whitening agents which also have an antioxidant effect, such as vitamin C compounds, including ascorbate salts, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids or ascorbic acid, and other derivatives of ascorbic acid, such as ascorbyl phosphates, for example magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, or esters of ascorbic acid saccharide, including, for example, ascorbyl-2-glucoside, 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbate, or 6-O-beta-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbate. Active agents of this type are in particular sold under the trade name Ascorbyl glucoside® by the company DKSH.

[0171] An example of a self-tanning agent is DHA.

[0172] Examples of agents that favor the microenvironment include lupine extracts (e.g. Eclaline® from Silab), raft extracts, horse chestnut extracts, ivy extracts, ginseng extracts or melilot extracts; caffeine, nicotinic acid and their derivatives, extracts of Corallina officinalis algae, such as those sold by CODIF; and mixtures thereof. These agents active on the skin microenvironment can be used to avoid dullness of the complexion and / or to improve the evenness and radiance of the complexion.

[0173] The complexion base according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.002 to 1% by weight, of a cosmetic active substance relative to the total weight of the complexion base according to the invention.

[0174] Additives The complexion base according to the present invention may contain other ingredients, provided that they do not interfere with the desired properties of the complexion base. These other ingredients may be, for example, preservatives, pH adjusters, such as citric acid or arginine, antimicrobial agents, perfumes, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] Preparation method Another object of the invention is to provide a method for preparing a complexion base in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention, comprising the steps of: - mixing a plasticizer with water; - adding starch with stirring until a gel forms; - mixing the oil with an emulsifier and, optionally, with a silicone elastomer, a film-forming polymer, and a colorant; - introducing the water-containing mixture into the oil-containing mixture with stirring to form an emulsion; Including, This is the method.

[0176] According to another embodiment, another object of the invention is a method for preparing a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention, comprising: - mixing water, a plasticizer, and optionally a preservative and a colorant under agitation; - adding starch with stirring until a gel forms; - mixing the oil with an emulsifier and, optionally, with a silicone elastomer, a film-forming polymer; - introducing the oil-containing mixture into the water-containing mixture with stirring to form an emulsion; Including, This is the method.

[0177] Method for making up keratinous materials - Patents.com The present invention also relates to a method for making up or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which consists of applying to said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, a complexion base according to the invention, characterized in that a first layer of the complexion base according to the invention is applied to the skin and then a second layer of a second composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and at least one coloring agent is applied to a portion of said first layer. EXAMPLES

[0178] Example 1 W / O complexion base A complexion base in the form of a water-in-oil type was prepared having the composition disclosed in Table 1 below.

[0179] [Table 1]

[0180] The complexion base was prepared according to the following protocol: 1- Weigh out the aqueous phase containing water, glycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and preservatives and place it under Raineri stirring; 2- LYCOAT RS 720 is added with stirring at 250 rpm for 10 minutes until a gel is formed; 3- Mix CITHROL, KSG-210 and CETIOL ULTIMATE in rotor-stator with stirring at 245 rpm for 5 minutes. 4- The pigments are added to the fatty phase while stirring in the rotor stator at 350 rpm. 5- The aqueous phase (1+2) is introduced into this mixture (3+4) in a rotor stator at 245 rpm for 5 minutes to form an emulsion.

[0181] The resulting complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, which can be easily applied without burring. The film formed on the skin protects the makeup from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Thus, the foundation applied on this complexion base maintains its color and matteness persistently over time.

[0182] Example 2 W / O complexion base A complexion base was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the composition given in Table 1 of Example 1, in which the pregelatinized pea starch was replaced by the same pea starch, but not pregelatinized, LYCOAT NG 720 from Roquette Freres.

[0183] To prepare the complexion base, the aqueous phase is mixed with stirring at 85° C., then LYCOAT NG 720 is added. The rest of the process remains unchanged. Once the emulsion is formed, it is allowed to cool to room temperature with stirring.

[0184] The complexion base obtained is fluid and homogeneous, which can be easily applied without burring. The film formed on the skin protects the makeup from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Thus, the foundation applied on this complexion base maintains its color and matteness persistently over time.

[0185] Example 3 O / W complexion base A complexion base in oil-in-water form was prepared having the composition disclosed in Table 3 below.

[0186] [Table 2]

[0187] The complexion base was prepared according to the following protocol: - weigh out the aqueous phase containing water, glycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and preservatives and place it under Raineri stirring; - Add LYCOAT RS 720 while stirring at 250 rpm for 10 minutes until homogenous. - The pigment is added while stirring in the rotor stator at 350 rpm; - Polysorbate 20, KSG-210 and CETIOL ULTIMATE are mixed with stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm for 5 minutes; The fatty phase is introduced into this mixture in a rotor-stator at 245 rpm for 5 minutes to form an emulsion.

[0188] The complexion base obtained is fluid and homogeneous, which can be easily applied without burring. The film formed on the skin protects the makeup from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Thus, the foundation applied on this complexion base maintains its color and matteness persistently over time.

[0189] Example 4 O / W complexion base A complexion base was prepared in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having the composition presented in Table 3 of Example 3, in which the pregelatinized pea starch was replaced by the same pea starch, but not pregelatinized, LYCOAT NG 720 from Roquette Freres.

[0190] To prepare the complexion base, the aqueous phase is mixed with stirring at 85° C., then LYCOAT NG 720 is added. The rest of the process remains unchanged. Once the emulsion is formed, it is allowed to cool to room temperature with stirring.

[0191] The complexion base obtained is fluid and homogeneous, which can be easily applied without burring. The film formed on the skin protects the makeup from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Thus, the foundation applied on this complexion base maintains its color and matteness persistently over time.

Claims

1. A complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, - at least one legume starch having an amylose content of at least 30%, at least one plasticizer chosen from polyols, at least one oil, at least one emulsifier, - Water, at least one silicone elastomer, Including, said legume starch being present in a dry matter content between 1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colour base; The polyol is contained in an amount of 10 to 30% by mass based on the total mass of the complexion base, The water is contained in an amount of 25 to 65% by mass based on the total mass of the complexion base, The legume starch may be pea starch, chickpea starch, broad bean starch, or the like. bean starch, horse bean starch, kidney bean starch or lentil starch; the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycol (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units, and / or sorbitol; The silicone elastomer is selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers. Complexion based.

2. 2. A complexion base according to claim 1, characterized in that the legume starch has a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion with 20% dry substance at 25° C. of between 10 and 10 000 mPa.s.

3. The legume starch is characterized in that it has an amylose content ranging from 30% to 75%. The complexion base according to claim 1 or 2.

4. 2. A complexion base according to claim 1, characterized in that the legume starch is chosen from pea starch.

5. 5. A complexion base according to claim 1, characterized in that the legume starch is a hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated legume starch.

6. 6. The complexion base according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is chosen from pentylene glycol, glycerol and / or sorbitol.

7. 7. A complexion base according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is present in a concentration ranging from 13 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the complexion base.

8. 8. The complexion base according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer.

9. 9. A complexion base according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsifier has an HLB between 8 and 20 and is chosen from esters of fatty acids with oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes, and mixtures thereof.

10. 9. A complexion base according to claim 1, characterized in that the emulsifier has an HLB of less than 8 and is chosen from esters of fatty acids and of polyols.

11. A complexion base according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises from 30 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the complexion base.

12. 12. A complexion base according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional film-forming agent other than said legume starch.

13. A complexion base according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises at least one monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

14. The complexion base comprises a colorant; 14. The complexion base according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring agents are chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or soluble dyes.

15. A method for preparing a complexion base in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 14, comprising the steps of: - mixing said plasticizer with water; - adding said legume starch with stirring until a gel is formed; - mixing said oil with said emulsifier and said silicone elastomer; - introducing a water-containing mixture into the oil-containing mixture with stirring to form an emulsion; A method comprising:

16. A method for preparing a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 14, comprising the steps of: - mixing water and said plasticizer with stirring; - adding said legume starch with stirring until a gel is formed; - mixing said oil with said emulsifier and said silicone elastomer; - introducing said oil-containing mixture into a water-containing mixture with stirring to form an emulsion; A method comprising:

17. 17. The method according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the mixing of the plasticizer with the water is carried out at room temperature or at warm temperature.

18. 15. A method for making up or caring for keratinous substances, comprising applying to said keratinous substances a complexion base according to any one of claims 1 to 14.

19. 19. A method of applying makeup according to claim 18, characterized in that a first layer of a complexion base according to any one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to the skin and then a second layer of a second composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and at least one colorant is applied to a portion of the first layer.

20. Cosmetic use of a complexion base according to any one of claims 1 to 14 for improving the long-lasting properties of make-up over time.

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