Novel method, use and cosmetic composition
A synergistic blend of Scutellaria alpina extract with spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter addresses the limitations of high Scutellaria extract concentrations by enhancing anti-inflammatory efficacy in cosmetic compositions, improving skin health without compromising aesthetics.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- DSM IP ASSETS BV
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-21
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions with Scutellaria extract face challenges in achieving effective anti-inflammatory results with low concentrations, as higher dosages can lead to color and odor issues, stability problems, and undesirable cosmetic properties.
A synergistic combination of Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf, and/or stem extract with spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter enhances anti-inflammatory efficacy without increasing Scutellaria extract concentration.
The combination effectively reduces skin redness, itching, burning, and transepidermal water loss, providing improved skin barrier function and reducing IL-1α, IL-8, and VEGF protein activity, while maintaining cosmetic appeal.
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2024133420-FTAPPB-I100001 
Figure PCTCN2024133420-FTAPPB-I100002 
Figure PCTCN2024133420-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
NOVEL METHOD, USE AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONField of the invention
[0001] The invention relates to a novel method, a novel use and a novel cosmetic composition.Background of the invention
[0002] Inflammation is a complex response of the skin to damage that could be caused by for example germs, wounds or other treats. It is an essential part of the body’s immune defence mechanism. Inflammation can for example cause a skin to swell and become red.
[0003] Sensitive skin describes a condition of the skin characterized by excessive reactivity of the skin to everyday factors such as sudden changes in temperature, wind, cold, pollution, dust, or UV radiation. It can lead to undesirable sensory sensations of the skin such as stinging burning, itching, tightness, and prickling. Sensitive skin is also associated with a compromised skin barrier function, leading to high transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin dryness. Visible signs of a sensitive skin include skin redness and erythema. When a sensitive skin is regularly exposed to irritating factors, this can lead to a long-term inflammation of the skin. As a consequence of such inflammation, individuals with sensitive skin may experience discomfort, redness, tightness, itching, prickling, stinging, and / or a burning sensation of the skin. These effects can have a high impact at the quality of life of an individual with sensitive skin.
[0004] The negative effects of a sensitive skin can have a high impact at the quality of life of an individual. Sensitive skin is becoming an issue for an increasing number of people. Studies have shown that 70%of women perceived their skin sensitivity increased after menopause. However, also an increasing number of young people describe their skin as being sensitive.
[0005] Scutellaria extracts have been known to reduce inflammation of the skin. For example, US 6352698 describes a method for treating sensitive or allergic skin by topically applying to said skin a composition comprising Scutellaria extract.
[0006] However, Scuttellaria extracts are not all the same and their efficacy may vary between plant species and the part of the plant that is used. In certain cases higher dosages may be needed to get an appropriate efficacy. At the same time though, it is not desirable to use large amounts of Scutellaria extract in a cosmetic composition. In China, the Scutellaria extract is also known as the “golden herb” and extracts have a yellow / brown colour. The Scutellaria extract may also have a certain odour. Such a colour and / or odour is / are less desirable in cosmetic compositions. In addition, large amounts of natural extracts, such as a Scutellaria extract, in a cosmetic composition can over time lead to changes in colour and odor and potential deterioration of the product, making a product less attractive to customers. For cosmetic products comprising a large amount of natural extracts, such as Scutellaria extract, it may also become difficult to ensure stability of the product.
[0007] It would therefore be an advancement in the art to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a Scutellaria extract; and / or a method using Scutellaria extract; and / or a use of Scutellaria extract, that allows for a low concentration of Scutellaria extract to be applied whilst still obtaining good efficacy. In addition, or in the alternative, it would be an advancement in the art to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a Scutellaria extract; and / or a method using Scutellaria extract; and / or a use of Scutellaria extract that allows for an increase in efficacy, without increasing the concentration of such Scutellaria extract.Summary of the invention
[0008] The inventors have now surprising found that spent grain wax, and more preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter, can advantageously be used synergistically with a Scutellaria extract, more preferably a Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract, to boost efficacy.
[0009] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the invention provides a method, preferably a cosmetic and / or non-therapeutic method of: - treating or preventing an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / or - reducing or inhibiting the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or - soothing, reducing, treating and / or preventing one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or - reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , wherein the method comprises a step of application to such keratinous tissue of a combination, which combination comprises or consists of a) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.
[0010] In a second aspect, the invention provides a use of a combination, which combination comprises or consists of a) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter for treating or preventing an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / or for reducing or inhibiting the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or for soothing, reducing, treating and / or preventing one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or for reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) .
[0011] Certain compositions are useful in or for the above method and use. Hence, in a third aspect, the invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a) Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.
[0012] As illustrated by the examples the above invention advantageously provides for a synergistic effect and allows one to increase the efficacy of the Scutellaria extract, without having to increase the concentration thereof in a cosmetic composition. In addition, or in the alternative, the invention allows one to use low concentrations of Scutellaria extract -in combination with spent grain wax, and more preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter -where such low concentrations of Scutellaria would otherwise have been considered to be without effect.
[0013] As illustrated in the examples the aspects of the invention can be advantageous for individuals with sensitive skin. The aspects of the invention can for example advantageously reduce skin redness and / or other symptoms of sensitive skin such as stinging, itching and / or burning.Brief description of the drawings
[0014] The invention is illustrated by the following figures:
[0015] Figure 1: In vitro assessment of IL-1α, IL-8 and VEGF inhibition. **P < 0.01 refers to a comparison to the formulation comprising merely 2% AS without the SCUTELLARIA CB. For each factor 3 columns are illustrated. The most left set of columns represents the inhibition of IL-1α, the middle set of columns represents the inhibition of IL-8 and the most right set of columns represents the inhibition of VEGF. Within each set the left column represents comparative formulation B with merely 0.5 % Scutellaria CB and no A;the middle column represents comparative formulation C with merely and 2 % AS and no Scutellaria CB; and the right column represents the test formulation 1 of example 1 with 0.5 % Scutellaria CB and 2 % AS. The inhibition effect of comparative formulation B with merely 0.5 % Scutellaria CB and no Awas hardly measurable and hence this column is nearly zero.
[0016] Figure 2: Illustration of test sites of the in-vivo capsaicin test of example 2.
[0017] Figure 3: Images taken by Visia 7 camera system show the changes of the skin redness of the forearm area of a selected subjects, illustrating visible reduction of skin redness in example 2. The top row illustrates the test formulation comprising 2%STIMU-TEX AS and 0.5% SCUTELLARIA CB, including from left to right the result at T=0 minutes (baseline) , the result at T=5 minutes and the result at T=15 minutes. The bottom row illustrates the placebo formulation, including from left to right the result at T=0 minutes (baseline) , the result at T=5 minutes and the result at T=15 minutes. The visible reduction of skin redness after 5 min and 15 min was faster and better for the test formulation than for the placebo formulation.
[0018] Figure 4 : Reduction of skin redness in example 2 assessed by Visia + IPP software on defined sites of the inner forearm of subjects (*P < 0.05 compared to placebo, **p < 0.01, ***p <0.001 compared to T 0 min) . The two left columns represent the results at T= 5 minutes, wherein the very left column in dark grey represents the reduction for the placebo formulation and the second column from the left in light grey represents the reduction for the test formulation. The two right columns represent the results at T= 15 minutes, wherein the second column from the right in dark grey represents the reduction for the placebo formulation and the most right column in light grey represents the reduction for the test formulation. A significant improvement of the test formulation versus the placebo formulation is shown.
[0019] Figure 5 : Vascular hyper-reactivity changes in example 2 asessed by measuring mean blood perfusion with PeriCam PSI System on defined sites of the inner forearm of subjects (*P <0.05 compared to placebo, **p < 0.01, ***p < 0.001 compared to T 0 min) . The two left columns represent the results at T= 5 minutes, wherein the very left column in dark grey represents the reduction for the placebo formulation and the second column from the left in light grey represents the reduction for the test formulation. The two right columns represent the results at T= 15 minutes, wherein the second column from the right in dark grey represents the reduction for the placebo formulation and the most right column in light grey represents the reduction for the test formulation. A significant improvement of the test formulation versus the placebo formulation is shown.
[0020] Figure 6: Facial areas where the tests of example 3 were carried out. The location (cheek) for the testing of the skin TEWL is illustrated with dot No. 1. The location (cheek) of the IPP analysis for skin redness is illustrated with the circle No. 2. The location (on nasolabial folds left and right of the philtrum) for the lactic acid sting test is illustrated with rectangles No. 3.
[0021] Figure 7: Changes of skin barrier improvement (TEWL) as assessed by Tewameter, TM Hex at defined sites of the cheek area of subjects (*P < 0.1, **p < 0.01, ***p < 0.001 compared to placebo and D0) . The two left columns represent the results at week 2, wherein the very left column in dark grey represents the change for the placebo formulation and the second column from the left in light grey represents the improvement for the test formulation. The two right columns represent the results at week 4, wherein the second column from the right in dark grey represents the reduction for the placebo formulation and the most right column in light grey represents the improvement for the test formulation according to the invention.
[0022] Figure 8: Changes of skin redness as assessed by VISIA CR + IPP image analysis software at defined sites of the cheek area of subjects (*P < 0.1, **p < 0.01, ***p < 0.001 compared to placebo) . The two left columns represent the results at week 2, wherein the very left column in dark grey represents the change for the placebo formulation and the second column from the left in light grey represents the improvement for the test formulation. The two right columns represent the results at week 4, wherein the second column from the right in dark grey represents the reduction for the placebo formulation and the most right column in light grey represents the improvement for the test formulation according to the invention.
[0023] Figure 9: Skin stinging analysis was obtained by Lactic acid sting degree total score (at 2.5 min and 5 min) analysis on a 4-pointscale: 0 for no stinging, 1 for mild, 2 for moderate , and 3 for severe (*P < 0.1, **p < 0.01, ***p < 0.001 compared to placebo) . There are three sets of columns. The two columns to the left represent the values at D0, the day before application of any formulation. The two columns in the middle represent the value at week 2 and the two columns on the right represent the value at week 4. For the set of two columns in the middle (week 2) and the set of two columns on the right (week 4) , within each set the left column represents the results after treatment with the placebo formulation and the right column represents the results after treatment with the test formulation according to the invention.Detailed description of the inventionDefinitions
[0024] Unless defined otherwise or clearly indicated by context, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art.
[0025] Throughout the present specification and the accompanying claims, the words "comprise" and "include" and variations such as "comprises" , "comprising" , "includes" and "including" are to be interpreted inclusively. That is, these words are intended to convey the possible inclusion of other elements or integers not specifically recited, where the context allows.
[0026] The articles “a” and “an” are used herein to refer to one or to more than one (i.e. to one or at least one) of the grammatical object of the article. By way of example, “an element” may mean one element or more than one element. When referring to a noun (e.g. a compound, an additive, etc. ) in the singular, the plural is meant to be included. Thus, when referring to a specific moiety, e.g. "gene" , this means "at least one" of that gene, e.g. "at least one gene" , unless specified otherwise.
[0027] When referring to a compound of which several isomers exist (e.g. a D and an L enantiomer) , the compound in principle includes all enantiomers, diastereomers and cis / trans isomers of that compound that may be used in the particular aspect of the invention; in particular when referring to such as compound, it includes the natural isomer (s) .
[0028] Unless explicitly indicated otherwise, the various embodiments of the invention described herein can be cross-combined.
[0029] The term "cosmetic composition " or “cosmetic preparation” refers in the present document to a composition suitable for cosmetic purposes. Suitably a cosmetic composition is herein understood to be a composition for cosmetic, that is, non-therapeutic use. More preferably the term "cosmetic composition " or “cosmetic preparation” refers in the present document to a composition which is applied to the surface of a mammalian keratinous tissue. The terms "cosmetic composition " or “cosmetic preparation” can comprise or consist of those cosmetic compositions as defined under the heading "Kosmetika" in Lexikon Chemie, 10th edition 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York as well as to cosmetic compositions as disclosed in A. Domsch, "Cosmetic Compositions" , Verlag für chemische Industrie (ed. H. Ziolkowsky) , 4th edition, 1992. More preferably the "cosmetic composition " or “cosmetic preparation” is a cosmetic preparation, respectively a cosmetic composition, that can be topically applied to mammalian keratinous tissue such as e.g. human skin or hair (including eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or the lips) , particularly human skin. Hence, the cosmetic composition is preferably a topical composition.
[0030] By a topical composition is herein understood a composition for, preferably external, use on keratinous tissue such as the skin.
[0031] The term “keratinous tissue" as used in this document refers to tissue containing keratine, more preferably it means the skin (body, face, contour of the eyes, scalp) , head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hairs, nails and / or lips. Preferably, the keratinous tissue is the skin and hair. The terms “keratine” , “keratin” and “keratin protein” are used interchangeably herein.
[0032] By an “excipient” is herein understood an inactive substance formulated alongside the active ingredient in a composition. Whilst the active ingredient provides the primary cosmetic effect or desired outcome, the excipient helps deliver, protect, and stabilize the active ingredient and / or improves the product's usability and acceptability.The Scutellaria extract
[0033] In all aspects of this invention, a “Scutellaria extract” is preferably understood to be an extract of a plant of the genus “Scutellaria” . Scutellaria plants are also known as “skullcap” .
[0034] More preferably the “Scutellaria extract” is an extract of the species Scutellaria baicalensis (also referred to as the “Chinese skullcap” or the species Scutellaria alpina (also referred to as alpine skullcap) . Most preferably the “Scutellaria extract” is an extract of the species Scutellaria alpina, herein also referred to as an Scutellaria alpina extract.
[0035] The Scutellaria extract can be an extract of several different parts of the plant. For example, the Scutellaria extract can comprise an extract of the flower, stem, leaves and / or root of a Scutellaria plant. More preferably the Scutellaria extract comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of the extract of the flower, leaf and / or stem of a Scutellaria plant. The Scutellaria extract may or may not comprise Scutellaria root extract. Sometimes Scutellaria root extract is applied for its medical efficacy. If such medical efficacy is desired, the Scutellaria extract of the invention may comprise such Scutellaria root extract. However, for this invention the Scutellaria extract preferably does not contain Scutellaria root extract.
[0036] Preferably the Scutellaria extract is a Scutellaria extract containing scutellarin. Without wishing to be bound by any kind of theory, such scutellarin is believed to have strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The scutellarin may have the structural formula (I) :
[0037] Preferably the Scutellaria extract contains equal to or more than 0.5 wt% (weight percent) scutellarin, more preferably equal to or more than 1.0 wt%scutellarin, even more preferably equal to or more than 2.0 wt%scutellarin, still more preferably equal to or more than 3.0 wt%scutellarin, yet even more preferably equal to or more than 4.0 wt%scutellarin, most preferably equal to or more than 5.0 wt%scutellarin, based on the total weight of the Scutellaria extract. There is no upper limit. However, for practical reasons the Scutellaria extract may suitably contain equal to or less than 100.0 wt%scutellarin, suitably equal to or less than 99.0 wt%scutellarin. Hence, the Scutellaria extract may suitably be a Scutellaria extract wherein the weight percentage (wt%) of scutellarin lies in the range from equal to or more than 1.0 wt%to equal to or less than 100.0 wt%, more preferably in the range from equal to or more than 2.0 wt%to equal to or less than 99.0 wt%
[0038] Most preferably the Scutellaria extract is a Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract. Without wishing to be bound to any kind of theory, it is believed that the Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract has a unique chemical profile. It is believed that the Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract advantageously comprises scutellarin.
[0039] In addition, the Scutellaria extract preferably contains luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and / or apigenin-7-O-glucoronide. The Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract is believed to advantageously comprise luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and / or apigenin-7-O-glucoronide.
[0040] Other ingredients that may optionally be present in the Scutellaria extract include carthamidin-7-O-glucuronide, iso-scutellarein, scutellarein, baicalin, chrysin-7-O-glucoronide, wogonoside, apigenin and / or chrysin.
[0041] The Scutellaria extract may or may not comprise baicalin. Baicalin may suitably have the structural formula (II) Unfortunately, baicalin is believed to possibly have medical effects that may be undesirable in a cosmetic composition. Preferably the Scutellaria extract is therefore a Scutellaria extract that contains no or essentially no baicalin.
[0042] If baicalin is present in the Scutellaria extract, such baicalin is preferably present in a weight percentage that is less than the weight percentage of scutellarin, wherein such weight percentages are based on the total weight of the Scutellaria extract. Preferably the Scutellaria extract contains equal to or less than 5.0 wt% (weight percent) baicalin, more preferably equal to or less than 2.0 wt%baicalin, even more preferably equal to or less than 1.0 wt%baicalin, yet even more preferably equal to or less than 0.10 wt%baicalin, most preferably equal to or less than 0.010 wt%baicalin, based on the total weight of the Scutellaria extract. Preferably the Scutellaria extract is therefore a Scutellaria extract wherein the weight ratio of weight scutellarin to weight baicalin is equal to or more than 1: 1, more preferably equal to or more than 2: 1, even more preferably equal to or more than 3: 1, yet even more preferably equal to or more than 5: 1, still more preferably equal to or more than 10: 1, and most preferably equal to or more than 100: 1. There is no upper limit. However, if baicalin is present, for practical reasons, the weight ratio of weight scutellarin to weight baicalin may be equal to or less than 1000000: 1, suitably less than 100000: 1. Hence, the Scutellaria extract may suitably be a Scutellaria extract wherein the weight ratio of weight scutellarin to weight baicalin lies in the range from equal to or more than 1: 1 to equal to or less than 1000000: 1, more suitably in the range from equal to or more than 2: 1 to equal to or less than 1000000: 1.
[0043] In addition, or in the alternative, if baicalin is present in the Scutellaria extract, such baicalin is preferably present in a molar percentage that is less than the molar percentage of scutellarin. Preferably the Scutellaria extract contains equal to or less than 5 mol % (mole percent) baicalin, more preferably equal to or less than 2 mol %baicalin, even more preferably equal to or less than 1 mol %baicalin, yet even more preferably equal to or less than 0.1 mol %baicalin, most preferably equal to or less than 0.01 mol %baicalin, based on the total moles of compounds in the Scutellaria extract. Preferably the Scutellaria extract is therefore a Scutellaria extract wherein the molar ratio of mole scutellarin to mole baicalin is equal to or more than 1: 1, more preferably equal to or more than 2: 1, even more preferably equal to or more than 3: 1, yet even more preferably equal to or more than 5: 1, still more preferably equal to or more than 10: 1, and most preferably equal to or more than 100: 1. There is no upper limit. However, if baicalin is present, for practical reasons, the mole ratio of mol scutellarin to mole baicalin may be equal to or less than 1000000: 1, suitably less than 100000: 1. Hence, the Scutellaria extract may suitably be a Scutellaria extract wherein the molar ratio of mol scutellarin to mol baicalin lies in the range from equal to or more than 1: 1 to equal to or less than 1000000: 1, more suitably in the range from equal to or more than 2: 1 to equal to or less than 1000000: 1.
[0044] The Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract is most preferred as this extract is believed to contain scutellarin in a higher molar concentration and / or in a higher weight concentration than baicalin.
[0045] The Scutellaria extract can be produced in any suitable manner known by the person skilled in the art. Such a method may for example include grinding, solvent extraction and / or filtering. Preferably the Scutellaria extract is obtained with help of one or more solvents, preferably an alcohol such as ethanol, glycerin and / or water, more preferably glycerin and / or water. Alternatively, an extract can be obtained in a manner similar as described in US6193990, US6506410, US7056482, US8377437, US2006 / 0159721 or US 2011 / 0020410, incorporated herein by reference.
[0046] In addition to the above the Scutellaria extract may advantageously have been produced by a process including treatment of the extract with activated carbon. The extract may therefore also be prepared as described in WO2001007534A1, also incorporated herein by reference.
[0047] The Scutellaria extract may be applied in a solid form or in an emulsion, dispersion or solution form. The Scutellaria extract is preferably soluble in water. More preferably the Scutellaria extract is a Scutellaria extract dissolved or dispersed in water, in glycerin or in a mixture of water and glycerin.
[0048] The Scutellaria extract may or may not be supplied or applied, in the above combination in the aspects of the invention, as an ingredient comprising one or more helper compounds, also referred to as “excipients” . Preferred excipients include a carrier and / or an anti-oxidant. Hence, preferably the Scutellaria extract is supplied or applied as an ingredient comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of: - Scutellaria flower, leaf and / or stem extract, more preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and - a cosmetically acceptable carrier. More preferably the Scutellaria extract is supplied or applied as an ingredient comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of: - Scutellaria flower, leaf and / or stem extract, more preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and - a cosmetically acceptable carrier; and - one or more cosmetically acceptable additional excipients. Preferred cosmetically acceptable additional ingredients include: - alcohol, glycerin and / or water; and / or - anti-oxidants, preferably citric acid and / or ascorbic acid and / or any salt thereof.
[0049] Preferably the Scutellaria extract comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; glycerin; water; and citric acid. A most preferred Scutellaria extract is the Scutellaria alpina extract commercially available as DSM-FIRMENICH’s SCUTELLARIA CB (supplied by DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd) .The spent grain wax
[0050] Spent grain wax can conveniently be obtained as a byproduct in a brewing process. The spent grains in such a brewing process conveniently comprise fibres, proteins and lipids. The spent grain wax can conveniently be extracted from the lipid fraction of the spent grains.
[0051] Preferably the spent grain wax contains a mixture of fatty acids, esters, alcohols and hydrocarbons. The spent grain wax can contain saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids. Preferably the spent grain wax contains a mixture of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids and / or any ester and / or any salt thereof. More preferably the spent grain wax contains a mixture of two or more saturated and unsaturated C14-C20 fatty acids and / or any ester and / or salt thereof. Herein a C14-C20 fatty acid is understood to be a fatty acid comprising in the range from equal to or more than 14 to equal to or less than 20 carbon atoms. More preferably the spent grain wax contains one or more fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, myristic acid and arachidic acid; and / or any esters thereof and / or any salts thereof and / or any mixtures of one or more of these.
[0052] Preferably any esters in the spent grain wax are esters formed by a reaction of a fatty acid, preferably one or more fatty acids as described above, with an alcohol, preferably glycerol.
[0053] Suitably the spent grain wax can be extracted from the residue of a brewing process by collecting the spent grains, drying the spent grains and extracting the lipid fraction from the dried spent grains with the help of a solvent, preferably an organic solvent such as hexane, heptane, ethanol or isopropanol, to obtain a spent grain lipid extract. The obtained spent grain lipid extract can be further purified by filtration, distillation and / or other purification techniques, preferably removing impurities and / or non-waxy components, to isolate a purified spent grain wax. The purified spent grain wax can be solidified for use in the composition of the invention.
[0054] Preferably the spent grain wax has a melting point of equal to or more than 20℃. More preferably the spent grain wax has a melting point in the range from equal to or more than 40℃, more preferably from equal to or more than 60℃ to equal to or less than 100℃, more preferably equal to or less than 80℃.
[0055] The spent grain wax may be applied in a solid form, a semi-solid form or as an emulsion, dispersion or solution. The spent grain wax is preferably soluble in an oil or wax. More preferably the spent grain wax is a spent grain wax partly or wholly dissolved or dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable oil or wax.
[0056] The spent grain wax may or may not be supplied or applied, in the combination in the aspects of the invention, as an ingredient comprising one or more helper compounds, also referred to as “excipients” . Preferred excipients include a carrier and / or an anti-oxidant.
[0057] Advantageously the spent grain wax is supplied or applied as an ingredient comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of: - spent grain wax; - one or more cosmetically acceptable carriers, preferably one or more other oils and / or waxes; and - one or more antioxidants. Most preferably the spent grain wax is present, supplied and / or applied as a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, shea butter and optionally an anti-oxidant. Argan oil can also more formally be referred to as “Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil “. Shea butter is preferably “Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter extract” . A most preferred spent grain wax is the mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil and shea butter commercially available as DSM-FIRMENICH’s AS (supplied by DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd) .The combination
[0058] The inventors have now surprising found that spent grain wax, and more preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter, can advantageously be used in combination with a Scutellaria extract to create a synergistic anti-inflammatory combination, respectively a synergistically anti-inflammatory composition. As explained above such Scutellaria extract is more preferably a Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract.
[0059] That is, a combination, comprising or consisting essentially of a) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter, has been found to advantageously allow for a synergistic increase in anti-inflammatory activity and / or a synergistic treatment or prevention of inflammation of a keratinous tissue.
[0060] Hence, in all the aspects of the invention described herein the Scutellaria extract is preferably a Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract. Further preferences for the Scutellaria extract are as described above.
[0061] Further, in all aspects of the invention described herein, the spent grain wax is preferably present, supplied and / or applied as a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, shea butter and optionally an anti-oxidant. Further preferences for the spent grain wax are as described above.
[0062] By a “combination” is herein preferably understood the bringing together of two or more components. The mere term “combination” as such is herein not understood to be exclusive, but is to be interpreted inclusively. That is, the term “combination” is intended to convey the possible inclusion of other elements or integers not specifically recited, where the context allows. For example, by the combination of a Scutellaria extract and a spent grain wax according to the invention it is not necessarily excluded that other ingredients may be present, such as for example the solvents and / or anti-oxidants mentioned above. The combination of the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax may therefore comprise one or more additional components, such as for example the water, glycerin, oils and / or waxes and / or anti-oxidants mentioned above.
[0063] The weight ratio between the spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract may vary widely. For example, the spent grain wax may be present in a weight surplus to the Scutellaria extract. That is, the combination may comprise the spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract in a weight ratio of spent grain wax to Scutellaria extract in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0 to equal to or less than 50: 1.0, or suitably equal to or less than 20: 1.0. Alternatively the Scutellaria extract may be present in a weight surplus to the spent grain wax. That is, the combination may comprise the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax in a weight ratio of Scutellaria extract to spent grain wax in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0 to equal to or less than 50: 1.0, or suitably equal to or less than 20: 1.0.
[0064] Preferably, in all aspects of the invention, the combination comprises the spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract in a weight ratio of spent grain wax to Scutellaria extract in the range from equal to or more than 0.05: 1.00, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.10: 1.00, even more preferably from equal to or more than 0.4: 1.0, and most preferably from equal to or more than 0.9: 1.0, to equal to or less than 20: 1.0, more preferably to equal to or less than 10: 1.0, even more preferably to equal to or less than 2.0: 1.0 and most preferably to equal to or less than 1.1: 1.0.
[0065] Advantageously the invention allows for a low weight percentage of Scutellaria extract to be applied in a cosmetic composition. Hence, more preferably the spent grain wax is present in a weight surplus to the Scutellaria extract. Most preferably the weight ratio of spent grain wax to Scutellaria extract in the combination lies in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0 to equal to or less than 10: 1, more preferably in the range from equal to or more than 1.1: 1 to equal to or less than 8: 1.
[0066] As indicated above, the spent grain wax is preferably present, supplied and / or applied as a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter. Such a mixture may advantageously be present, supplied and / or applied in a weight surplus to the Scutellaria extract. Hence, preferably the combination comprises a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter and Scutellaria extract in a weight ratio of the total weight of the mixture to weight Scutellaria extract in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0, more preferably from equal to or more than 2.0: 1.0, even more preferably from equal to or more than 5.0: 1.0, yet more preferably from equal to or more than 10: 1.0, and most preferably from equal to or more than 20: 1.0, to equal to or less than 10000: 1.0, more preferably to equal to or less than 1000: 1.0, yet more preferably to equal to or less than 500: 1.0, even more preferably to equal to or less than 100: 1.0 and most preferably to equal to or less than 50: 1.0.
[0067] As indicated above, preferably the Scutellaria extract is a Scutellaria extract comprising scutellarin. The invention advantageously allows such scutellarin to be present in mere limited amounts, whilst still achieving a good efficacy. Hence, preferably the combination comprises spent grain wax and scutellarin in a weight ratio of weight spent grain wax to weight scutellarin in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0, more preferably from equal to or more than 2.0: 1.0, even more preferably from equal to or more than 5.0: 1.0, and most preferably from equal to or more than 10:1.0, to equal to or less than 1000: 1.0, more preferably to equal to or less than 500: 1.0, even more preferably to equal to or less than 100: 1.0 and most preferably to equal to or less than 50: 1.0.
[0068] As illustrated in the examples, if the commercial products AS and SCUTELLARIA CB are used in a combination or a composition, the weight ratio of AS to SCUTELLARIA CB is preferably in the range from equal to or more than 0.1: 1 to equal to or less than 20: 1, more preferably from equal to or more than 1: 1 to equal to or less than 10: 1.
[0069] The spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract, respectively scutellarin, can be combined in any manner known by the skilled person to be suitable for such purpose. For example, the spent grain wax can be added to a composition already comprising the Scutellaria extract or the Scutellaria extract can be added to a composition already comprising the spent grain wax. It is also possible for the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax to be added simultaneously, separately or as a mixture, to a composition already comprising one or more other components.
[0070] In a preferred embodiment the spent grain wax is present in or as an oily and / or lipid phase and the Scutellaria extract is present in or as an aqueous phase. Hence, preferably the combination comprising the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax is prepared by: (i) preparing an aqueous phase comprising the Scutellaria extract; (ii) preparing an oil and / or lipid phase comprising the spent grain wax; and (iii) preparing a mixture, dispersion or emulsion of the aqueous phase of (i) and the oil and / or lipid phase of (ii) .
[0071] In the aspects of the invention, the combination is therefore preferably a combination comprising or consisting essentially of: a) an aqueous phase comprising Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) an oil and / or lipid phase comprising spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising or consisting of spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.
[0072] As illustrated in the examples, such an aqueous phase and such an oil / lipid phase are preferably applied in any combination or in any composition in a weight ratio of oil / lipid phase to aqueous phase in the range from equal to or more than 0.1: 1 to equal to or less than 20: 1, more preferably from equal to or more than 1: 1 to equal to or less than 10: 1.The method
[0073] The invention provides a method, preferably a cosmetic and / or non-therapeutic method of: - treating or preventing an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / or - reducing or inhibiting the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or - soothing, reducing, treating and / or preventing one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or - reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , preferably across a keratinous tissue, wherein the method comprises a step of application to such keratinous tissue of a combination of a) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter. Preferences for the Scutellaria extract, the spent grain wax and the combination are as described already above.
[0074] Advantageously the invention allows one to synergistically: - treat or prevent an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / or - reduce or inhibit the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or - sooth, reduce, treat and / or prevent one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or - reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , preferably across a keratinous tissue.
[0075] Preferably the keratinous tissue is a skin or scalp, more preferably a mammal skin or scalp, most preferably human skin or scalp. More preferably the keratinous tissue is the epidermis. Most preferably the keratinous tissue is the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis.
[0076] Preferably the keratinous tissue is the keratinous tissue of an individual in need of - treating or preventing an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / or - reducing or inhibiting the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or - soothing, reducing, treating and / or preventing one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or - reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , preferably across a keratinous tissue. More preferably the keratinous tissue is the keratinous tissue of a menopausal or post-menopausal individual.
[0077] Without wishing to be bound by any kind of theory it is believed that each of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein play a significant role in the skin.
[0078] Interleukin-1 alpha, herein also abbreviated as “IL-1α” is believed to be a pro-inflammatory cytokine that plays a role in the initiation and propagation of the inflammatory response in the skin. It is also believed to stimulate the production of cytokines and chemokines in the skin, amplifying a inflammation. Without wishing to be bound to any kind of theory it is believed that a reduction in IL-1α can help to manage or reduce an inflammation.
[0079] Interleukin-8, herein also abbreviated as “IL-8” and also known as “CXCL8” is believed to be a chemokine that attracts neutrophils and other immune cells to sites that the body believes have been injured. Without wishing to be bound by any kind of theory it is believed that a reduction or modulation of IL-8 can help to control excessive inflammation.
[0080] The Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor, also abbreviated herein as “VEGF” , is believed to be a signaling protein that increases vascular permeability and stimulates the growth of new blood vessels. Whilst VEGF is believed to be beneficial for wound healing, it is also understood that excessive VEGF activity can make an inflammation worse. It is therefore believed to be important to control and balance VEGF levels such that the VEGF activity does not become excessive. Without wishing to be bound by any theory it is believed that a reduction or modulation of VEGF can help to control excessive redness of the skin.
[0081] Preferably the method comprises a step of application to the keratinous tissue of a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which composition comprises a combination comprising or consisting of a) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.
[0082] Preferably such a composition comprises, based on the total weight of the composition: - In the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of Scutellaria extract; and - In the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of spent grain wax.
[0083] Further preferences for such a composition are as provided above and below.
[0084] In line with the preferences above, the composition is further preferably a composition comprising: a) an aqueous phase comprising Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) an oil and / or lipid phase comprising spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.
[0085] As illustrated in the examples, in addition to the beneficial effects in respect of the inflammation, the combinations and / or the compositions as described herein can advantageously have a soothing effect on the skin and / or can be beneficial for restoring or maintaining TEWL and / or can improve the condition of sensitive skin.
[0086] The synergistic effects as illustrated in the examples are especially surprising as in such examples the spent grain wax is residing in an oily / lipid phase and the Scutellaria extract is residing in an aqueous phase.The use
[0087] In a second aspect, the invention provides a use of a combination of a) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter for treating or preventing an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / or for reducing or inhibiting the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or for soothing, reducing, treating and / or preventing one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or for reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , preferably across a keratinous tissue.
[0088] Further preferences for the keratinous tissue and other elements of such use are as described above for the method and as described above for the combination.
[0089] Preferably the use comprises the use of a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which composition comprises a combination comprising or consisting of a) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.
[0090] Further preferences for such a composition are as provided above and below.
[0091] In the methods and uses according to this invention, the combination as described herein is preferably applied as part of a cosmetic composition. More preferably such a combination or such a cosmetic composition is applied to the keratinous tissue, such as preferably the skin, in an amount in the range from equal to or more than 0.2 mg / cm2, still more preferably from equal to or more than 0.5 mg / cm2, and most preferably from equal to or more than 1.0 mg / cm2, to equal to or less than 20 mg / cm2, more preferably to equal to or less than 10 mg / cm2and most preferably to equal to or less than 5 mg / cm2. Most preferably the combination or cosmetic composition is applied to the keratinous tissue, such as preferably the skin, in an amount of about 2 mg / cm2.The cosmetic compositions
[0092] In all aspects of the invention the composition is preferably a cosmetic composition. Such a cosmetic composition is preferably intended for topical use. That is, in all aspects of the invention the composition is preferably a topical composition. Although in some cases a therapeutic application is possible, preferably the cosmetic compositions are non-therapeutic.
[0093] The term ‘cosmetic composition’a s used herein refers to compositions, which are used to treat, care for or improve the appearance of the skin and / or the scalp. Particular advantageous cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are skin care preparations.
[0094] In all aspects of the invention the composition may preferably be a composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: - In the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of Scutellaria extract; and - In the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of spent grain wax.
[0095] In all aspects of the invention the composition may preferably be a composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: - In the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of Scutellaria extract; and - In the range from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.5 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 1.0 wt%, to equal to or less than 50 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 30 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 10 wt%of a total weight of spent grain wax, argan oil and shea butter.
[0096] In all aspects of the invention the composition may preferably be a composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: - In the range from equal to or more than 0.001 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.005 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of scutellarin; and - In the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of spent grain wax.
[0097] In all aspects of the invention the composition may preferably be a composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: - In the range from equal to or more than 0.001 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.005 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of scutellarin; and - In the range from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.5 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 1.0 wt%, to equal to or less than 50 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 30 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 10 wt%of a total weight of spent grain wax, argan oil and shea butter.
[0098] Most preferably the composition is a composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising: a) Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter. Further preferences include the preferences described above and below.
[0099] The weight ratio between the spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract in the composition may vary widely. For example, the spent grain wax may be present in a weight surplus to the Scutellaria extract. That is, the composition may comprise the spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract in a weight ratio of spent grain wax to Scutellaria extract in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0 to equal to or less than 50: 1.0, or suitably equal to or less than 20: 1.0. Alternatively the Scutellaria extract may be present in a weight surplus to the spent grain wax. That is, the composition may comprise the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax in a weight ratio of Scutellaria extract to spent grain wax in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0 to equal to or less than 50: 1.0, or suitably equal to or less than 20: 1.0.
[0100] Preferably, in all aspects of the invention, the composition comprises the spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract in a weight ratio of spent grain wax to Scutellaria extract in the range from equal to or more than 0.05: 1.00, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.10: 1.00, even more preferably from equal to or more than 0.4: 1.0, and most preferably from equal to or more than 0.9: 1.0, to equal to or less than 20: 1.0, more preferably to equal to or less than 10: 1.0, even more preferably to equal to or less than 2.0: 1.0 and most preferably to equal to or less than 1.1: 1.0.
[0101] Advantageously the invention allows for a low weight percentage of Scutellaria extract to be applied in a cosmetic composition. Hence, more preferably the spent grain wax is present in a weight surplus to the Scutellaria extract. Most preferably the weight ratio of spent grain wax to Scutellaria extract in the composition lies in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0 to equal to or less than 10: 1, more preferably in the range from equal to or more than 1.1: 1 to equal to or less than 8: 1.
[0102] As indicated above, the spent grain wax is preferably present, supplied and / or applied as a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter. Such a mixture may advantageously be present, supplied and / or applied in a weight surplus to the Scutellaria extract. Hence, preferably the composition comprises a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter and Scutellaria extract in a weight ratio of the total weight of the mixture to weight Scutellaria extract in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0, more preferably from equal to or more than 2.0: 1.0, even more preferably from equal to or more than 5.0: 1.0, yet more preferably from equal to or more than 10: 1.0, and most preferably from equal to or more than 20: 1.0, to equal to or less than 10000: 1.0, more preferably to equal to or less than 1000: 1.0, yet more preferably to equal to or less than 500: 1.0, even more preferably to equal to or less than 100: 1.0 and most preferably to equal to or less than 50: 1.0.
[0103] As indicated above, preferably the Scutellaria extract is a Scutellaria extract comprising scutellarin. The invention advantageously allows such scutellarin to be present in mere limited amounts, whilst still achieving a good efficacy. Hence, preferably the composition comprises spent grain wax and scutellarin in a weight ratio of weight spent grain wax to weight scutellarin in the range from equal to or more than 1.0: 1.0, more preferably from equal to or more than 2.0: 1.0, even more preferably from equal to or more than 5.0: 1.0, and most preferably from equal to or more than 10:1.0, to equal to or less than 1000: 1.0, more preferably to equal to or less than 500: 1.0, even more preferably to equal to or less than 100: 1.0 and most preferably to equal to or less than 50: 1.0.
[0104] The spent grain wax and the Scutellaria extract, respectively scutellarin, can be combined in any manner known by the skilled person to be suitable for such purpose. For example, the spent grain wax can be added to a composition already comprising the Scutellaria extract or the Scutellaria extract can be added to a composition already comprising the spent grain wax. It is also possible for the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax to be added simultaneously, separately or as a mixture, to a composition already comprising one or more other components.
[0105] In a preferred embodiment the spent grain wax is present in or as an oily and / or lipid phase and the Scutellaria extract is present in or as an aqueous phase. Hence, preferably the composition comprising the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax is prepared by: (i) preparing an aqueous phase comprising the Scutellaria extract; (ii) preparing an oil and / or lipid phase comprising the spent grain wax; and (iii) preparing a mixture, dispersion or emulsion of the aqueous phase of (i) and the oil and / or lipid phase of (ii) .
[0106] In the aspects of the invention, the composition is therefore preferably a composition comprising or consisting essentially of: a) an aqueous phase comprising Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and b) an oil and / or lipid phase comprising spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.
[0107] Preferably the composition is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, wherein the composition comprises Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract and spent grain wax, wherein the Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract, respectively scutellarin, is present in an amount effective - to treat or prevent an inflammation of a keratinous tissue ; and / or - to reduce or inhibit the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or - to sooth, reduce, treat and / or prevent one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or - to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , preferably of the keratinous tissue.
[0108] Preferably the cosmetic compositions comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The term ‘cosmetically acceptable carrier’ (also referred to herein as carrier) refers to all vehicles / carriers conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, i.e. which are suitable for topical application to the keratinous tissue, have good aesthetic properties, are compatible with the actives present in the composition, and will not cause any unreasonable safety or toxicity concerns. Such carriers are well-known to one of ordinary skill in the art. The exact amount of carrier will depend upon the actual level of the actives (a) to (c) and any other optional ingredients that one of ordinary skill in the art would classify as distinct from the carrier (e.g., other active ingredients) .
[0109] In an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic compositions comprise from about 50%to about 99%, preferably from about 60%to about 98%, more preferably from about 70%to about 98%, such as in particular from about 80%to about 95%of a carrier, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In a particular advantageous embodiment, the carrier consists furthermore of at least 40 wt. -%, more preferably of at least 50 wt. -%, most preferably of at least 55 wt.-%of water, such as in particular of about 55 to about 90 wt. -%of water.
[0110] The cosmetic composition can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, gel, soap bar or toner, or applied with an implement or via a face mask, pad or patch. Non-limiting examples of such compositions include leave-on skin lotions and creams, shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, face wash’s , body wash’s , toilet bars, antiperspirants, deodorants, depilatories, lipsticks, foundations, mascara, sunless tanners and sunscreen lotions.
[0111] The cosmetic compositions of the invention (including the carrier) may comprise conventional adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives / antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorings / colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating agents and / or sequestering agents, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients usually formulated into such compositions.
[0112] In accordance with the present invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise further cosmetically active ingredients conventionally used in cosmetic compositions. Exemplary active ingredients encompass skin lightening agents; UV-filters, agents for the treatment of hyperpigmentation; agents for the prevention or reduction of inflammation; firming, moisturizing, soothing, and / or energizing agents as well as agents to improve elasticity and skin barrier.
[0113] Examples of cosmetic excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives as well as active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry which are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are for example described in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary &Handbook by Personal Care Product Council (http: / / www. personalcarecouncil. org / ) , accessible by the online INFO BASE (http: / / online. personalcarecouncil. org / jsp / Home. jsp) , without being limited thereto.
[0114] The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention can be in a wide variety of forms. Non limiting examples include simple solutions (e.g. aqueous, organic solvent, or oil based) , emulsion or micro emulsion (in particular of oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) type, silicone-in-water (Si / W) or water-in-silicone (W / Si) type, PIT-emulsion, multiple emulsion (e.g. of oil-in-water-in oil (O / W / O) or water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) type) or pickering emulsions) , as well as solid forms (e.g. hydrogels, alcoholic gels, lipogels, sticks, flowable solids, or amorphous materials) .
[0115] These product forms may be used for a number of applications, including, but not limited to, gels, creams, ointments, lotions, serums, powder, aerosol sprays or two component dispensing systems.
[0116] If the cosmetic composition is an emulsion, such as in particular an O / W-, W / O-, Si / W-, W / Si-, O / W / O-, W / O / W-or a pickering emulsion, then the amount of the oily phase present in such cosmetic emulsions is preferably at least 10 wt. -%, such as in the range of 10 to 60 wt. -%, preferably in the range of 15 to 50 wt. -%, most preferably in the range of 15 to 40 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0117] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to a person skilled in the art.
[0118] In another particular advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are clear serums.
[0119] The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention advantageously comprise a preservative.
[0120] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention in general have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 8 and most preferably a pH in the range of 5 to 8. The pH can easily be adjusted as desired with suitable acids, such as e.g. citric acid, or bases, such as sodium hydroxide (e.g. as aqueous solution) , triethanolamine (TEA Care) , Tromethamine (Trizma Base) and Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP-Ultra PC 2000) , according to standard methods in the art.ExamplesMaterials The following materials were used in the examples: - SCUTELLARIA CB, commercially available from DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd, comprising an aqueous phase containing about 20 wt%Scutellaria Alpina Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract; and - AS, commercially available from DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd., comprising an oily / lipid phase containing about 5 wt%spent grain wax.Example 1 –in vitro test
[0121] For these examples, test formulations as listed in Table 1 were prepared. This includes a placebo formulation A, a comparative formulation B, a comparative formulation C and a test formulation 1 according to the invention. To induce inflammatory conditions (reconstructed human skin epidermal model) was stimulated with TNFα. After administration of the test formulation’s (placebo formulation, formulation with 2% AS, formulation with 2% AS + 0.5% SCUTELLARIA CB) the expression of IL-1α, IL-8 and VEGF was evaluated by Elisa. Below the tests are described in detail.
[0122] A reconstructed human epidermal skin model was prepared. The test skins, that is the skin models for testing, are then divided into groups. The skin models were transferred to a 6-well plate (added 0.9 mL of EpiGrowth medium in advance) and the test group information was marked on the 6-well plate.
[0123] Except for the blank control group, the other groups were stimulated with Tumor Necrosis Factor-alpha (TNF-α) .
[0124] Then each of placebo formulation A, comparative formulation B, comparative formulation C and test formulation 1 were applied to a test group. For each formulation, a sample stock solution of the formulation was evenly smeared, with a dose of 10μL, on the surface of a skin model in a well, and incubated in a CO2 incubator (37℃, 5%CO2) for 24hrs.
[0125] After the incubation, the test formulation was washed off with sterile PBS (Phosphate Buffered Saline) , and the skin model was swapped with a cotton swab (to remove residual PBS) .
[0126] After washing, the model culture solution was collected in centrifugal tubes and the samples for ELISA detection were placed in a -80℃ refrigerator until the test. The detection and analysis were carried out according to the operating instructions of each ELISA kit. The samples were tested for the presence of inflammatory factors (IL-1α, IL-8) and the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) .
[0127] The results are reflected in Table 2. When 2%STIMU-TEX AS was used alone, the inhibition rates of IL-1α, IL-8 and VEGF were 60.92%, 22.09%and 38.98%, respectively. When 0.5% SCUTELLARIA CB was used alone, there was no inhibition efficacy on of IL-1α, IL-8 and VEGF. When 2%STIMU-TEX AS was combined with 0.5% SCUTELLARIA CB, the inhibition rates against IL-1α, IL-8 and VEGF were 69.69%, 39.39%and 46.5%, respectively. An effective skin redness reduction could be observed. The results have been illustrated by Figure 1.
[0128] The results show that when a combination of SCUTELLARIA CB and STIMU-TEX AS was used, the inhibition rates of IL-1α, IL-8 and VEGF were increased by 14.40%, 78.32%and 19.29%, respectively, compared with the single component. According to statistical calculation results, compared with single component, the P values of IL-1α, IL-8 and VEGF were 0.0097, 0.0026 and 0.0034, respectively. All of them were less than 0.01, hence the observed improvement can be concluded to be significant.
[0129] Hence, these in-vitro experiments illustrate the synergistic effect of combining Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract and spent grain wax, in this case in the form of 0.5% SCUTELLARIA CB and 2% AS, both commercially available from DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.Table 1 : Test formulations Table 2 : Analytical Results Example 2 –in vivo short term test
[0130] To confirm efficacy in vivo, a single-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled capsaicin test was carried out to monitor the short term responses. The test was carried out on 30 Chinese female subjects in the age from 22 to 45 years. The formulations tested included: - a placebo formulation similar to the placebo formulation exemplified in example 1 as placebo formulation A; and - a test formulation similar to the test formulation exemplified in example 1 as test formulation 1. This active formulation contained 2% AS and 0.5% SCUTELLARIA CB.
[0131] During this in-vivo test 0.1%w / v capsaicin solution (dissolved in 10%ethanol) was applied to the test area of the inner forearm of each subject for 15 minutes and then removed. After 30 minutes a baseline (T0 Min) measurement was done. Subsequently the placebo formulation and the test formulation were applied at the same time on test locations on the inner forearm of each subject as illustrated in Figure 2.
[0132] Measurements were carried out at the following times: T0 Min : baseline -before applying the test products; T5 Min: 5 minutes after applying the placebo and test formulations; T15 Min : 15 minutes in after applying the placebo and test formulations.
[0133] Subsequently a skin redness analysis was performed by image capture of the test area with VISIA + IPP software analysis (skin a*value) . The results have been illustrated in figure 3 and figure 4. A visible reduction of skin redness was observed after 5 min and 15 min. The test formulation performed faster and better than the placebo formulation.
[0134] In addition, a vascular hyper-reactivity analysis was carried out by measuring mean blood perfusion with PeriCam PSI System (based on the laser speckle contrast imaging analysis) . The results have been listed in Table 3 below and illustrated in figure 5.
[0135] Finally, a self-questionnaire was completed by the subjects to monitor feeling of sting, itching and burning, on a 4-point scale (0 absent, 1 for very mild, 2 for mild, 3 for moderate and 4 for severe) . The results have been provided below in Table 4. The results of the test formulation illustrate a significant reduction of undesired symptoms versus the placebo formulation: -10%reduction of stinging after 5 Min (-27%after 15 Min) -16%reduction of itching after 5 Min (-26%after 15 Min) -15%reduction of burning after 5 Min (-28%after 15 Min) **Table 3 : Reductions in vascular hyper-reactivity compared to T = 0 Min Table 4 : Results of self-questionnaire in capsaicin test Example 3 –in vivo long term test
[0136] To further confirm efficacy in vivo, single-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled lactic acid sting study was carried out to monitor the long term responses. The test was carried out on 67 Chinese female subjects with self-perceived sensitive skin, a TEWL > 10 g / hm 2 and age between 25 and 45. The group was divided into 2 groups.
[0137] The formulations tested included: - a placebo formulation similar to the placebo formulation exemplified in example 1 as placebo formulation A; and - a test formulation similar to the test formulation exemplified in example 1 as test formulation 1. This active formulation contained 2% AS and 0.5% SCUTELLARIA CB.
[0138] The studied formulation was applied by the subjects twice a day, each morning and evening, for 28 days. The test locations were as illustrated in Figure 6.
[0139] Measurements were carried out at the following times: D 0: the day before applying the placebo, respectively test, formulation; Week 2: the 14th day after applying the placebo, respectively test, formulation; and Week 4: the 28th day after applying the placebo, respectively test, formulation
[0140] The skin barrier changes were assessed by Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements with a Tewameter, TM Hex at the above defined sites of the cheek area of subjects. The results have been listed in Table 5 below and illustrated in figure 7. As illustrated the skin barrier condition for the group treated with the placebo formulation slightly worsened after 2 and 4 weeks. The skin barrier condition of the group treated with the test formulation according to the invention showed a +7%skin barrier improvement in 2 weeks, and an even more pronounced +14%improvement in 4 weeks. Hence a significant improvement vs the placebo was obtained.Table 5 : Changes of skin barrier improvement (TEWL) compared to D0
[0141] Skin redness analysis was obtained by performing image capture of the test area with VISIA CR + IPP image analysis software. The results have been listed in Table 6 below and illustrated in figure 8. The test formulation provided significantly better results than the placebo formulation. As illustrated after 4 weeks there was a +12%increased skin redness following treatment with the placebo formulation compared with the baseline value (D0) . Treatment with the test formulation resulted in a -7%skin redness reduction after 4 weeks compared with the baseline value (D0) and an almost 20%better improvement compared with the placebo formulation.Table 6: Changes in skin redness compared to D0
[0142] Skin sensitivity analysis was obtained by Lactic acid sting degree score analysis. In this Lactic acid sting degree score analysis: - Before application (D0) , 10%Lactic acid solution was applied to the nasolabial folds and the subjects were asked about the skin tingling sensation in the nasolabial folds at 2.5 min and 5 min respectively on a 4-point scale (0 for no tingling, 1 for mild tingling, 2 for moderate tingling, and 3 for severe tingling) . - After applying 2 weeks (D14) and respectively 4 weeks (D28) of the placebo formulation, respectively test formulation, a lactic acid sting test was performed again. The results have been listed in Table 7 below and illustrated in figure 9.
[0143] The test formulation provided significantly better results than the placebo formulation. After treatment with the test formulation, the skin became significantly less sensitive to the lactic acid sting test. As illustrated after 2 weeks a -27%reduction of the total skin stinging score was obtained. After 4 weeks a -49 %reduction of the total skin stinging score was obtained.Table 7: Changes in total lactic acid skin stinging score (at 2.5 min and 5 min)
Claims
1.A method, preferably a cosmetic and / or non-therapeutic method of- treating or preventing an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / or- reducing or inhibiting the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or- soothing, reducing, treating and / or preventing one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or- reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) ,wherein the method comprises a step of application to such keratinous tissue of a combination, which combination comprises or consists ofa) Scutellaria extract; andb) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butter.2.The method according to claim 1, wherein the Scutellaria extract does not contain Scutellaria root extract.3.The method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the Scutellaria extract contains scutellarin.4.The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the Scutellaria extract is a Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract.5.The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the combination comprises the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax in a weight ratio of Scutellaria extract to spent grain wax in the range from equal to or more than 0.1: 1, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.5: 1, to equal to or less than 10: 1, more preferably to equal to or less than 2: 1.6.Use of a combination, which combination comprises or consists ofa) Scutellaria extract, preferably Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; andb) Spent grain wax, preferably a mixture comprising spent grain wax, argan oil, and shea butterfor treating or preventing an inflammation of a keratinous tissue; and / orfor reducing or inhibiting the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / orfor soothing, reducing, treating and / or preventing one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / orfor reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) .7.The use according to claim 6, wherein the Scutellaria extract does not contain Scutellaria root extract.8.The use according to any one of claims 6 to 7, wherein the Scutellaria extract contains scutellarin.9.The use according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein the Scutellaria extract is a Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract.10.The use according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein the combination comprises the Scutellaria extract and the spent grain wax in a weight ratio of Scutellaria extract to spent grain wax in the range from equal to or more than 0.1: 1, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.5: 1, to equal to or less than 10: 1, more preferably to equal to or less than 2: 1.11.A cosmetic composition comprisinga) Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; andb) Spent grain wax.12.The cosmetic composition according to claim 11, wherein the composition comprises scutellarin, preferably in an amount effective- to treat or prevent an inflammation of a keratinous tissue ; and / or- to reduce or inhibit the activity of IL-1α protein, IL-8 protein and / or VEGF protein in a keratinous tissue; and / or- to sooth, reduce, treat and / or prevent one or more symptoms of a sensitive skin, preferably chosen from the group consisting of skin redness, vascular hyper-reactivity, stinging, itching and burning; and / or- to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , preferably across a keratinous tissue.13.The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 11 to 12, wherein the composition comprises the Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract and the spent grain wax in a weight ratio of Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract to spent grain wax in the range from equal to or more than 0.1: 1, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.5: 1, to equal to or less than 10: 1, more preferably to equal to or less than 2: 1.14.The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein the composition comprises, based on the total weight of the composition:- in the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of Scutellaria alpina flower, leaf and / or stem extract; and- in the range from equal to or more than 0.01 wt%, more preferably from equal to or more than 0.05 wt%, most preferably from equal to or more than 0.1 wt%, to equal to or less than 5 wt%, more preferably to equal to or less than 3 wt%, most preferably to equal to or less than 1 wt%of spent grain wax.