Cosmetic composition for improving the bleaching or dyeing of keratin fibers

By adding alkoxylated organopolysiloxane and alkoxylated glycerides to the bleaching composition, a stable cosmetic composition is formed, which solves the stability of direct dye under bleaching agent, and achieves stronger dyeing and hair beauty effects.

CN114760978BActive Publication Date: 2025-07-29KAO CORP
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202080075747.7
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2019-10-31
Filing Date
2020-10-30
Publication Date
2025-07-29
Estimated Expiration
2040-10-30

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing bleaching compositions are difficult to stabilize the direct dye under harsh chemical conditions, resulting in unintended hair tone and negative effects, and existing solvents that change the viscosity of the mixture are not good for the hair touch.

Method used

Alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes and alkoxylated glycerides or alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers are used to combine less than 40% by weight of water to form a cosmetic composition for mixing with bleach and oxidation compositions to form ready-to-use compositions of pH 7 to 12, applied to keratin fibers.

Benefits of technology

Stabilize direct dye under harsh conditions, improve dyeing ability, enhance the coloring effect of keratin fibers, and improve hair beauty characteristics.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving the dyeing of keratin fibers. In particular, the deposition of direct dyes on keratin fibers is enhanced. The composition comprises an alkoxylated organopolysiloxane and an alkoxylated glyceride and / or optionally an alkoxylated alkyl glycerol ether.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving the dyeing of keratin fibers. In particular, the deposition of direct dyes on keratin fibers is enhanced. The composition can be used in bleaching / lightening processes and / or dyeing processes. Background Art

[0002] Bleaching compositions and processes are important tools for fashion - conscious consumers to change their hair color, especially from darker to lighter hair shades.

[0003] A common drawback of bleaching compositions is that the resulting hair color has an unexpected shade that consumers dislike very much. For example, warm yellowish tones are associated with the hair of heavy tobacco product users.

[0004] To counteract these unexpected shades, hair direct dyes can be added to the bleaching powder (EP1598051).

[0005] The bleaching powder is then mixed with an aqueous oxidizing composition to produce a reactive alkaline mixture. This harsh environment challenges the stability of the direct dyes.

[0006] The prior art addresses these problems by adding an oxidizable solvent to the aqueous bleaching mixture (EP2606875) to stabilize the direct dyes. However, these solvents may change the viscosity of the aqueous bleaching mixture and have a negative impact on the hair feel, leading to consumer dissatisfaction.

[0007] The use of organopolysiloxanes and alkoxylated glycerol esters or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glycerol ethers alone is generally known in the hair care field (JP2019 - 089749, JP2010 - 100543).

[0008] For the above reasons, there is a desire to obtain compositions and methods that further stabilize direct dyes under harsh chemical conditions without further negative impacts on keratin fibers. Summary of the Invention

[0009] Accordingly, a first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0010] a) one or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes;

[0011] b) one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glycerol esters and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glycerol ethers and / or mixtures thereof, the total concentration of which is 15% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0012] wherein the composition comprises less than 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] A second object of the present invention is a kit for bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising:

[0014] - Composition A, which contains one or more alkalizing agents and optionally one or more peracids and / or peroxysalts;

[0015] - Aqueous oxidation composition B;

[0016] - Composition C as defined above.

[0017] A third object of the present invention is a method for bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0018] i) Mixing Composition A as defined above, Composition B as defined above, and Composition C as defined above to produce a ready-to-use composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12;

[0019] ii) Applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving it for a time of 1 minute to 60 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes;

[0020] iii) Rinsing the keratin fibers with water and optionally washing the keratin fibers with shampoo.

[0021] A fourth object of the present invention is the use of the composition as defined above for stabilizing direct dyes during the bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing process. Detailed Description

[0022] The prior art has not provided a satisfactory solution to the above problems. The inventors of the present invention unexpectedly found that the hair direct dye is stabilized in the ready-to-use bleaching mixture according to the described composition. As a result, the dyeing ability of the direct dye is higher, and the keratin fibers are more strongly colored. In addition, the cosmetic properties of the keratin fibers are improved.

[0023] Cosmetic Composition

[0024] The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

[0025] a) One or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes;

[0026] b) One or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glycerides and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glycerol ethers and / or mixtures thereof, the total concentration of which is more than 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition,

[0027] wherein the composition comprises less than 40% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The compound according to a)

[0029] The compound according to a) is an alkoxylated organopolysiloxane.

[0030] Suitable alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes can be alkoxylated aminated or alkoxylated non-aminated organopolysiloxanes.

[0031] Suitable alkoxylated aminated organopolysiloxanes are PEG-x amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, where x is an integer in the range from 2 to 100; PEG / PPG-x / y amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, where x / y is in the range from 2 to 100; or mono- or bis-alkyl PEG / PPG-x / y amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes, where x and y have the same meaning as above.

[0032] From the viewpoint of dyeing strength, the alkoxylated non-aminated organopolysiloxane, which is preferably the compound according to a), is an alkoxylated polydimethylsiloxane copolymer.

[0033] Suitable alkoxylated polydimethylsiloxane copolymers are PEG-x polydimethylsiloxanes, where x is an integer in the range from 2 to 100; PEG / PPG-x / y polydimethylsiloxanes, where x / y is in the range from 2 to 100; and mono- or bis-alkyl PEG / PPG-x / y polydimethylsiloxanes, where x and y have the same meaning as above.

[0034] Further examples of such compounds are PEG / PPG-14 / 4 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-23 / 6 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 23 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane, and PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-6 / 4 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-6 / 11 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-8 / 14 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-8 / 26 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-10 / 2 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-12 / 16 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-12 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-14 / 4 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-15 / 5 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-15 / 15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-16 / 2 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-16 / 8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-18 / 6 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-18 / 12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-19 / 19 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 6 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 15 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 20 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 23 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 29 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-22 / 23 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-23 / 6 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-25 / 25 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-27 / 27 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-30 / 10 polydimethylsiloxane, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0035] From the viewpoint of the dyeing intensity, the compounds according to a) are further preferably selected from ethoxylated polydimethylsiloxane copolymers, propoxylated polydimethylsiloxane copolymers, and / or ethoxylated / propoxylated polydimethylsiloxane copolymers, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0036] From the viewpoints of the dyeing intensity and the stability of the direct dye, the most preferred compound is PEG / PPG-20 / 23 polydimethylsiloxane.

[0037] From the viewpoints of dyeing strength and stability of the direct dye, the total concentration of the compound according to a) is preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0038] From the viewpoints of dyeing strength, stability of the direct dye, and solubility of the compound, the total concentration of the compound according to a) is preferably 50% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and even more preferably 20% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0039] To obtain the above effects, the total concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 5% by weight to 30% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 10% by weight to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0040] The compound according to b)

[0041] The composition of the present invention contains one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glycerides and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glycerols and / or mixtures thereof as the compound according to b), and the total concentration thereof is 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0042] From the viewpoints of dyeing strength and dye stability, one or more compounds according to b) are preferably saturated or unsaturated C8 to C 22 fatty acids having a straight or branched chain, preferably saturated or unsaturated C 14 to C 22 ethoxylated and / or propoxylated and / or ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerides of fatty acids.

[0043] Suitable compounds are PEG-10 glyceryl oleate, PEG-11 glyceryl perseate, PEG-11 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-13 glyceryl sunflowerate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-9 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba oil ethoxylate (PEG-26 jojoba fatty acid, PEG-26 jojoba alcohol), glyceryl polyether-5 cocoate, PEG-9 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-45 glyceryl palmitate, PEG-35 castor oil, olive oil PEG-7 ester, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride, PEG-10 glyceryl oleate, PEG-13 glyceryl sunflowerate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate PEG-6 ester, PEG-20 glyceryl corn oil, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate cocoate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 glyceryl corn oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 glyceryl palmitate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-60 glyceryl almond oil, PEG-60 “evening primrose” glyceride, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate, PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate.

[0044] From the viewpoint of dyeing intensity, one or more compounds according to b) are preferably PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 coco-glyceride, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmitate.

[0045] From the viewpoint of dye stability, one or more compounds according to b) are further preferably alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers having an unsaturated alkyl chain with a total carbon number of 8 or more, preferably 9 or more.

[0046] From the viewpoint of formulation stability, the alkyl chain of the compound according to b) is preferably a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with a total carbon number of 18 or less.

[0047] In order to obtain the above effects, the alkyl chain of the compound according to b) is preferably a straight-chain or branched-chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with a total carbon number in the range of 8 to 18, more preferably in the range of 9 to 18.

[0048] Suitable examples of the compound according to b) are isostearyl glyceryl ether, stearyl glyceryl ether, isodecyl glyceryl ether, 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether and cetyl glyceryl ether and alkyl polyglyceryl ethers as disclosed, for example, in EP2003110.

[0049] From the viewpoint of dyeing intensity, the compound according to b) is preferably selected from ethoxylated glyceryl cocoate and / or isostearyl glyceryl ether.

[0050] From the viewpoints of dyeing intensity and formulation stability, it is further preferred that the total concentration of the compound according to b) is 15% by weight or more, more preferably 20% by weight or more, and even more preferably 30% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0051] From the viewpoint of solubility, it is preferred that the total concentration of the compound according to b) is 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, and even more preferably 65% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0052] To achieve the above effects, it is preferred that the total concentration of the compound according to b) is in the range of 15% to 80% by weight, preferably in the range of 20% to 70% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 30% to 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0053] From the viewpoint of formulation stability, it is further preferred that the weight ratio of compound a) to compound b) is in the range of 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably in the range of 1:1 to 1:5, and even more preferably in the range of 1:2 to 1:4.

[0054] Water content

[0055] The composition of the present invention contains less than 40% by weight of water.

[0056] From the viewpoint of formulation stability, it is preferred that the composition contains less than 30% by weight of water, more preferably less than 20% by weight of water, still more preferably less than 10% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 5% by weight of water, and most preferably is anhydrous.

[0057] Direct dyes

[0058] One aspect of the composition of the present invention is that it contains one or more direct dyes.

[0059] Preferably, the one or more direct dyes are selected from anionic, nonionic and / or cationic direct dyes.

[0060] Suitable anionic direct dyes are Acid Black 1, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Violet 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Red No. 2, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue No. 1, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1 and their alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium. Among them, the most preferred anionic dyes are Acid Red 52, DC Violet 2, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Red 27, DC Yellow 10, HC Blue 18, HC Red 18 and HC Yellow 16.

[0061] Suitable nonionic dyes including nitro dyes are HC Blue No. 2, HC Blue No. 4, HC Blue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HC Blue No. 7, HC Blue No. 8, HC Blue No. 9, HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No. 11, HC Blue No. 12, HC Blue No. 13, HC Brown No. 1, HC Brown No. 2, HC Green No. 1, HC Orange No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HC Orange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No. 7, HC Red No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, HC Red No. 13, HC Red No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No. 1, HC Violet No. 2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 5, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 8, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Yellow No. 10, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Yellow No. 13, HC Yellow No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, picramic acid, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-aminophenol, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzene and 2-hydroxyethyl picramic acid.

[0062] For this purpose, suitable cationic dyes are those disclosed in WO 95 / 15144 of Ciba-Geigy AG. Further examples are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 17 and Basic Orange 31, Basic Blue 124.

[0063] However, from the viewpoint of color intensity, preferred direct dyes for hair are selected from HC Blue 18, HC Red 18 and HC Yellow 16, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0064] From the viewpoint of dyeing intensity, the total concentration of the direct dye in the composition of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.01% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 5% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] When the direct dye is present in the composition of the present invention, from the viewpoint of dyeing intensity, the weight ratio of the direct dye to the compounds a) + b) is preferably in the range of 1:500 to 1:50, more preferably in the range of 1:250 to 1:75, and even more preferably in the range of 1:150 to 1:100.

[0066] Optional components

[0067] The composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0068] Suitable organic solvents are monohydric alcohols, dihydric alcohols and trihydric alcohols. Particularly suitable are ethanol, phenoxyethanol, propylene glycol and glycerol.

[0069] In the presence of an organic solvent, a suitable concentration range is from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Kit

[0071] The present invention also relates to a kit for bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising:

[0072] - Composition A, which contains one or more alkalizing agents and optionally one or more peracids and / or peroxo salts;

[0073] - Aqueous oxidizing composition B;

[0074] - Composition C as defined above as the composition of the present invention.

[0075] Composition A can be a bleaching powder composition A or an aqueous lightening composition A.

[0076] In the case where composition A is a bleaching powder composition, it contains one or more alkalizing agents. Suitable alkalizing agents are metasilicates and disilicates, especially sodium metasilicate and sodium disilicate. From the viewpoint of alkalinity, it is preferred that the total concentration of metasilicate and / or disilicate in bleaching powder composition A is in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 5% to 15% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of bleaching powder composition A.

[0077] Other suitable alkalizing agents are carbonate and bicarbonate alkali metal salts, such as sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts. From the viewpoint of buffering capacity, the preferred salt is bicarbonate, and ammonium bicarbonate is particularly preferred. From the viewpoints of buffering capacity and low hair damage, the suitable concentration of carbonate in bleaching powder composition A is in the range of 0.25% to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.75% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably in the range of 1% to 4% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the bleaching powder composition before mixing.

[0078] Bleaching powder composition A can further contain one or more peracids and / or peroxysalts. Suitable peracids and / or peroxysalts are sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, alkaline earth metal peroxides such as magnesium peroxide, melamine peroxide or urea peroxide or phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid. From the viewpoint of bleaching ability, the preferred peracids are sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate.

[0079] From the viewpoints of bleaching ability and cosmetic safety, it is preferred that the total concentration of peracids and / or peroxysalts in the bleaching powder composition is in the range of 10% to 80% by weight, preferably in the range of 15% to 70% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 60% by weight, and still more preferably in the range of 25% to 60% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the bleaching powder composition.

[0080] In the case where composition A is an aqueous lightening composition, it also contains one or more alkalizing agents. In principle, the same alkalizing agents as those disclosed above for bleaching powder composition A are suitable.

[0081] The pH of the aqueous lightening composition is preferably in the range of 7 to 12, more preferably in the range of 8 to 11, and even more preferably in the range of 8.5 to 10.5.

[0082] The aqueous lightening composition A is preferably an emulsion containing one or more lipophilic compounds.

[0083] From the viewpoint of dyeing intensity, it is preferred that composition A contains one or more direct hair dyes, preferably selected from HC Red 18, HC Blue 18, and HC Yellow 16. The direct hair dyes and concentrations disclosed for the compositions of the present invention are applicable.

[0084] From the viewpoints of cosmetic safety and bleaching / dyeing performance, composition B is an aqueous oxidation composition, preferably containing hydrogen peroxide.

[0085] From the viewpoint of the chemical stability of composition B, the pH is preferably in the range of 1 to 6, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 5, and even more preferably in the range of 2 to 4.

[0086] From the viewpoint of bleaching / dyeing performance, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in composition B is preferably in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 3% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Composition C is a composition according to the present invention.

[0088] Method for bleaching / lightening / dyeing

[0089] The present invention also relates to a method for bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, which comprises the following steps:

[0090] i) Mixing composition A as defined above with composition B as defined above and a composition according to the present invention to produce a ready-to-use composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12;

[0091] ii) Applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving it for a time of 1 minute to 60 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes;

[0092] iii) Rinsing the keratin fibers with water and optionally washing the keratin fibers with shampoo.

[0093] Then, the composition A of step i) is mixed with the composition B of step i) and the composition C of the present invention to form a ready-to-use composition. The suitable mixing weight ratio of compositions A and B ranges from 5:1 to 1:5. In addition, the suitable mixing ratio of (composition A + composition B) to the composition C of the present invention ranges from 4 to 50. Generally, suitable exemplary mixing weight ratios are 1:1:0.5, 1:1.5:0.05, 1:2:0.1, and 1:3:0.1 (composition A: composition B: composition C of the present invention).

[0094] Suitably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition ranges from 7 to 12. From the viewpoint of accelerating bleaching / dyeing, it is preferred that the pH of the ready-to-use composition ranges from 7.5 to 11, more preferably from 8.0 to 10.5.

[0095] Then, the ready-to-use composition is applied to the keratin fibers and left for a time ranging from 1 minute to 60 minutes as defined in step ii). From the viewpoint of fully developing the oxidized hair color or bleaching, the preferred time range of step ii) is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably from 10 minutes to 35 minutes.

[0096] From the viewpoint of dyeing intensity, it is further preferred that in the ready-to-use concentration, the weight ratio of the direct dye to the compounds a) + b) ranges from 1:500 to 1:50, more preferably from 1:250 to 1:75, and even more preferably from 1:150 to 1:100.

[0097] Optionally, heat can be applied while the ready-to-use composition remains on the keratin fibers. The suitable temperature range is from 30°C to 50°C.

[0098] Thereafter, according to step iii), the ready-to-use composition is rinsed off from the keratin fibers, and optionally they are washed with shampoo and optionally dried.

[0099] Use of the composition

[0100] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition of the present invention as defined above for stabilizing direct dyes during the bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing process.

[0101] The composition of the present invention maintains chemical stability under harsh chemical conditions and improves the deposition of direct dyes on keratin fibers.

[0102] The following examples are for illustrative purposes of the present invention and not for limiting the present invention.

[0103] Examples

[0104] Example 1

[0105] The following composition is prepared by mixing all the ingredients and stirring them until completely dissolved.

[0106] wt%

[0107] PEG / PPG - 20 / 23 Polydimethylsiloxane* 18.0

[0108] PEG - 7 Glyceryl Cocoate** 58.0

[0109] Water q.s. to 100.0

[0110] * Silwet L7001E obtained from Momentive Performance Materials Inc.

[0111] ** Cetiol HE obtained from BASF Corp.

[0112] Prepare the following bleaching powder composition A.

[0113]

[0114] Prepare the following aqueous oxidation composition B.

[0115]

[0116] Mix the bleaching powder composition A and the aqueous oxidation composition B in a weight ratio of 1:2. Then, add 0.1 part of the composition of the present invention to form a ready - to - use composition.

[0117] As a comparative composition, use a mixture of the bleaching powder and the aqueous oxidation composition in the same weight ratio as above, and replace the composition of the present invention with 0.1 part of water.

[0118] Prepare wool (2 g per bundle) and human hair bundles (21 cm, 2 g per bundle) for the bleaching experiment, and measure the color with a color difference meter by the CIE colorimetric system (L*, a*, b*) before treatment. Then, apply the ready - to - use composition and leave it on the hair bundles at 50 °C for 30 minutes. Then rinse off the composition, wash the keratin fibers with shampoo and dry. Then record the Lab values again.

[0119] Based on the (L*, a*, b*) measurement values, calculate ΔE based on the following formula.

[0120]

[0121]

[0122] As shown by the experimental results above, the color saturation of the composition of the present invention is relatively high, about 6 ΔE units on human hair and about 5 ΔE units on wool. Thus, the composition of the present invention allows for better deposition of hair direct dyes on keratin fibers during the bleaching process.

[0123] Example 2

[0124] Prepare the following compositions.

[0125]

[0126] Using the same protocol, the compositions are mixed with the bleaching powder and oxidation composition of Example 1. Human hair tresses are treated with the ready-to-use compositions in the same manner as explained in Example 1 and the color results are measured.

[0127] Compared to the comparative examples, the lower a* and b* values indicate a cooler shade and better absorption of blue dyes in the bleaching powder. Thus, consumers perceive a color with fewer unwanted yellowish tones.

[0128] In Comparative Composition 2, argan oil is used as a representative of natural oils. The composition is similar to the composition of FR3059547. The almond oil of the prior art is replaced by argan oil, which is also rich in oleic acid and linoleic acid.

[0129] Comparative Composition 3 illustrates the effect of reducing the concentration of the compound according to b).

[0130] In all cases, if the hair direct dye is under oxidative conditions, the composition of the present invention delivering lower a* and b* values shows better stability.

[0131] Example 3

[0132] Prepare the following compositions.

[0133]

[0134] Using the same protocol, the compositions are mixed with the bleaching powder and oxidation composition of Example 1. Hair tresses are treated in the same manner as explained in Example 1 and the color results are measured.

[0135] In all cases, if the hair direct dye is under oxidative conditions, the composition of the present invention delivering low a* and b* values shows better stability.

[0136] Example 4

[0137]

[0138]

[0139] Example 5

[0140]

[0141] Example 6

[0142]

[0143] Example 7

[0144] wt% PEG / PPG-20 / 23 Polydimethylsiloxane 25.0 Isostearoyl Glyceryl Ether 75.0

[0145] Example 8

[0146]

[0147]

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, wherein, it comprises: a) one or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes; b) one or more compounds selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 coco-glycerides and isostearyl glycerol ether, the total concentration of which, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition, is from 30% to 65% by weight, wherein the composition comprises less than 40% by weight of water, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition, the compound according to a) is selected from PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-6 / 4 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-6 / 11 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-8 / 14 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-8 / 26 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-10 / 2 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-12 / 16 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-12 / 18 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-14 / 4 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-15 / 5 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-15 / 15 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-16 / 2 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-16 / 8 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 6 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-19 / 19 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-20 / 15 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-20 / 23 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-20 / 29 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 23 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-23 / 6 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25 / 25 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-27 / 27 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-30 / 10 dimethicone, and / or mixtures thereof, the total concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of from 10% to 50% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of from 18% to 50% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The total concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of 18% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The total concentration of the compound according to a) is in the range of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The weight ratio of compound a) to compound b) is in the range of 5:1 to 1:

5.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The weight ratio of compound a) to compound b) is in the range of 1:1 to 1:

5.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The weight ratio of compound a) to compound b) is in the range of 1:2 to 1:

4.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition contains less than 30% by weight of water.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition contains less than 20% by weight of water.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition contains less than 10% by weight of water.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition contains less than 5% by weight of water.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein The composition is anhydrous.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein It contains one or more direct dyes.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein It contains one or more direct dyes selected from HC Red 18, HC Blue 18 and HC Yellow 16, and / or mixtures thereof.

15. A kit for bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, wherein It comprises: - Composition A, which contains one or more alkalizing agents and one or more peracids and / or peroxysalts, or which contains one or more alkalizing agents and does not contain one or more peracids and / or peroxysalts; - Aqueous oxidizing composition B, which contains hydrogen peroxide; - Composition C as defined in claim 1.

16. The kit according to claim 15, wherein Composition A contains one or more hair direct dyes.

17. The kit according to claim 15, wherein Composition A contains one or more hair direct dyes selected from HC Red 18, HC Blue 18 and HC Yellow 16, and / or mixtures thereof.

18. A method for bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing keratin fibers, wherein, It comprises the following steps: i) Mixing Composition A as defined in claim 15, Composition B as defined in claim 15 and Composition C as defined in claim 1 to produce a ready-to-use composition with a pH in the range of 7 to 12; ii) Applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving the composition on for a time of 1 minute to 60 minutes; iii) Rinsing the keratin fibers with water, washing the keratin fibers with shampoo, or rinsing the keratin fibers with water and not washing the keratin fibers with shampoo.

19. The method according to claim 18, wherein the residence time in step ii) is a time of 5 minutes to 45 minutes.

20. The method according to claim 18, wherein the residence time in step ii) is a time of 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

21. Use of the composition as defined in claim 1 for stabilizing direct dyes during bleaching and / or lightening and / or dyeing processes.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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