Solid dispersion for colored cosmetic

Abstract

Described herein are solid pigment dispersions that are formulated into a paste consistency during milling to reduce pigment particle size and form a dry granular consistency that is pourable and easy to handle at ambient temperature. This results in stronger, more intense color that can be easily incorporated into a variety of cosmetic products. These pigment dispersions are prepared with plant-derived materials that are derived from naturally occurring, renewable sources.

Description

Background Technology

[0001] The cosmetics industry requires pigment formulations that are intensely colored, have low particle size, are easily incorporated into various cosmetic formulations, and are made from natural plant-based ingredients. This invention addresses all these requirements by providing a dry dispersion comprising three main components: (1) one or more D&C, FD&C organic or inorganic pigments, or other pigments or colorants approved in any jurisdiction for direct contact use in cosmetics (“pigments” in this application); (2) one or more waxes of natural origin with a melting temperature between 40°C and 70°C; and (3) one or more oils of natural origin. The terms “natural,” “of natural origin,” “of plant origin,” and “of biological origin” are used interchangeably in this application and all refer to materials naturally derived from renewable sources. Summary of the Invention

[0002] This invention describes solid pigment dispersions and a method for manufacturing them, wherein the dispersions are formulated to a paste consistency during milling to reduce pigment particle size and form a dry, granular consistency that is pourable and easy to handle at ambient temperature. This allows for stronger, more intense colors and facilitates integration into a variety of cosmetic products, cosmetic formulations, and personal care products. These pigment dispersions are prepared using plant-derived substances obtained from naturally occurring, renewable sources. The solid pigment dispersions may include one or more pigments approved for cosmetic use, and one or more combinations of plant-based oils and / or waxes. The dispersions are milled into a dry powder form. Generally, the pigment present in the dispersions is about 25-75% by weight.

[0003] The wax component of these solid pigment dispersions can be selected from rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, olive, castor bean, coconut, rapeseed, jojoba, argan, pistachio, almond, sumac wax, and combinations thereof. The oil component of these solid pigment dispersions can be selected from undecenoate heptyl ester, cocoyl octanoate, cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, hydrogenated ethylhexyl oleate / hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables, propylene glycol dioctanoate, olive oil decyl ester / squalene, and combinations thereof.

[0004] These solid pigment dispersions may have melting points above 30°C, and may even be above 50°C. These dispersions also exhibit low dust generation, with pigment particle sizes potentially less than 15 μm, and even less than 10 μm. Detailed Implementation

[0005] The method described herein relates to the preparation of solid pigment dispersions by grinding pigments to a particle size of less than 15 μm and less than 10 μm to exhibit stronger, more intense colors and to allow for easy integration into a variety of cosmetic products. During the grinding process, the dispersion is typically formulated to have a paste-like consistency to reduce the pigment particle size and produce a dry, granular consistency that is pourable and easy to handle at ambient temperature.

[0006] The advantages of these dry solid dispersions are: (a) the pigments in the dispersions are generally processed to a particle size of less than 15 μm, and can also be processed to a particle size of less than 10 μm, regardless of the initial particle size; (b) due to the small pigment particle size, the dispersions exhibit strong color and can therefore be easily incorporated into cosmetic products without additional processing; (c) the wax / oil matrix is ​​plant-based, rather than derived from unsustainable palm oil; and (d) the particle consistency at room temperature has low dust generation and is easy to handle / pour. In this application, "low dust generation" can be defined as a dust propagation distance of no more than 300 ml in a calibrated measuring cylinder according to Table 30 and the methods described above.

[0007] In addition, other dispersants and additives can be added to the solid dispersion to impart additional properties, such as color intensity, compatibility with the intended application, functional properties, or physical properties, such as the feel of a cosmetic.

[0008] The solid dispersion may contain a high pigment content, such as >30%, >40%, >50%, >60%, or 30-65% by weight, combined with natural waxes and / or oil mixtures to produce a kneading consistency at high temperatures (e.g., 50-70°C), thereby allowing the pigment to be ground to a granular, dry solid consistency upon cooling to room temperature. Further dry grinding of the dried granular solid dispersion will provide a fine powder consistency that is easily incorporated into compatible cosmetic formulations such as lipsticks, lip glosses, eyeshadows, mascaras, and other similar products. In addition to cosmetics, the solid dispersions of the present invention are also suitable for a variety of personal care products, such as shampoos, soaps, deodorants, etc. While these solid dispersions are particularly suitable for products that come into direct contact with the skin, they can also be used in any application that typically contains pigment dispersions, such as inks, paints, colored films, textiles, paper and cellulose applications, and other industrial end uses.

[0009] One method for forming these dispersions is to typically melt a mixture of wax and oil at 60-70°C, and then add pigments (typically at a concentration of 50% by weight or higher) to produce a paste with a kneading consistency at 50-60°C. This paste can then be kneaded in an alpha blade mixer until the desired pigment particle size is achieved, such as less than 15 μm, or even less than 10 μm. Once the desired particle size is obtained, the mixture is cooled, for example with dry ice, and broken down to a particle consistency in the mixer. Once cooled, the dispersion can be removed from the mixer. Depending on the desired particle size, the dispersion can be further processed in a hammer mill or similar dry milling equipment.

[0010] Pigments approved for use in cosmetics in the current technology include, but are not limited to, black iron oxide (such as SunPuro or Suncroma black iron oxide), red iron oxide (such as SunPuro or Suncroma red iron oxide), brown iron oxide (such as SunPuro or Suncroma brown iron oxide), yellow iron oxide (such as SunPuro or Suncroma yellow iron oxide), titanium dioxide (such as SunCroma titanium dioxide), ultramarine blue (such as Suncroma ultramarine blue), manganese violet (such as SunCroma manganese violet), chromium oxide green (such as SunCroma chromium oxide green), D&C Red 28 Al lake (such as SunCroma D&C Red 28 Al lake), D&C Red 22 Al lake (such as SunCroma D&C Red 22 Al lake), FD&C Blue 1 Al lake (such as SunCroma FD&C Blue 1 Al lake), D&C Red 7 Ca lake (such as SunCroma D&C Red 7 Ca lake), D&C Red 6 Na salt (such as SunCroma D&C Red 6 Na salt), and D&C Red 6... Ba lakes (such as SunCroma D&C Red 6 Ba lake), FD&C Yellow 5 A1 lakes (such as SunCroma FD&C Yellow 5 A1 lake), D&C Black 2 (such as SunCroma Black 2), other D&C and FD&C pigments approved for use in cosmetics or to meet the cosmetics regulatory guidelines of other jurisdictions, and other pigments not explicitly labeled as D&C or FD&C but that comply with the cosmetics application regulatory guidelines.

[0011] The pigment concentration in the composition of the present invention can be in the range of 30-65% by weight or 40-60% by weight.

[0012] The natural waxes included in this application may have melting points above 30°C and possibly above 50°C, and will produce a substance with a consistency that allows for pigment grinding at 60-70°C and curing at room temperature to produce low-dust particulate solids. The natural waxes are derived from vegetable oils that have undergone minimal conversion to possess antioxidant stability and increase melting point.

[0013] Such naturally derived waxes include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated oils from rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, olive, castor bean, coconut, rapeseed, jojoba, argan oil, pistachio, almond, sumac (Rhus verniciflua), and the specific materials shown in Table 1.

[0014] Table 1 - Examples of commercially available waxes of natural origin

[0015] Types of wax Melting point (°C) Hydrogenated rapeseed oil 61-66 Soybean oil (non-GMO) 68-71 Sunflower oil 69-73 Hydrogenated rapeseed oil (low erucic acid) 68-74 Hydrogenated rapeseed oil (high in erucic acid) 61-66 Hydrogenated olive oil 60-70 Hydrogenated castor oil 86-88 Hydrogenated castor oil >85 Hydrogenated coconut oil 30-36 Hydrogenated rapeseed oil 70 Hydrogenated jojoba oil 69 Hydrogenated Moroccan Argan Oil 68-74 Pistachio Seed Oil 55-65 Almond oil 67-73 Lacquer fruit peel wax 49-54

[0016] Examples of naturally derived vegetable oils that can be used in the compositions of this application include, but are not limited to, undecenoate heptyl ester, cocoyl octanoate, cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, hydrogenated ethylhexyl oleate / hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables, propylene glycol dioctanoate, olive oil decyl ester / squalene, and the specific materials shown in Table 2.

[0017] Table 2 - Examples of commercially available natural plant-derived oils

[0018] Types of oil Heptyl undecenoate / Heptyl undecenoate Undecenoic acid glyceride / Caprylic acid glyceride Cocoyl octanoate C15-19 alkanes and coconut oil octanoate / sebate Hydrogenated ethylhexyl oleate / hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables Propylene glycol dioctyl ester Olive oil decyl ester / squalene

[0019] Typically, the ratio of wax to oil in this application can be from 1:1 to 4:1.

[0020] The composition of this application is milled to achieve a pigment particle size of less than 15 μm and less than 10 μm as measured by a Hegman grind gauge. Particle size is measured using the Hegman method under additional heat, according to ASTM D1210-05 (2014). This method uses a scraper to apply a pre-melted dispersion onto a 50-0 micrometer groove of a Hegman gauge preheated to 50°C to obtain a continuous layer from top to bottom within the groove. High-quality milling produces no scratches larger than 10 μm, indicating that all solid pigment particles are smaller than this value.

[0021] The grinding of the dispersion of the present invention can be carried out using any conventional pigment grinding and dispersing equipment known in the art, especially equipment designed for processing high-viscosity materials. Examples of such equipment include Sigma blade mixers, three-roll mills, and kneaders.

[0022] Existing cosmetic dispersions are either liquid / viscous, paste / gel-like, or viscous, typically requiring viscosity measurements and the use of suspending agents to keep pigments suspended in the dispersion and prevent sedimentation. The dispersion of this application is a dry solid at room temperature and can be ground into a flowable powder. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that flowable powders offer far greater pourability and handling ease than thick pastes. The dispersion of this invention eliminates the need for suspending agents and viscosity measurements because pigment sedimentation does not occur, thus providing a stable dispersion of pigments within the dispersion matrix.

[0023] Furthermore, liquid, paste, and gel dispersions typically require premixing before use, which is unnecessary for the dry solid dispersions of this invention. The color consistency issues associated with liquid, paste, and gel dispersions are not a problem for the dispersions of this invention because no precipitation occurs and premixing is unnecessary.

[0024] Compared to conventional pigment powders, the dispersions of the present invention do not reduce the risk of dust generation during processing because they have the flow characteristics of dry powder pigments. The advantage is that the pigments are fully and uniformly dispersed / ground / embedded into the solid matrix, thereby greatly reducing dust generation characteristics (see Table 30 below).

[0025] Furthermore, compared to pigments, the dispersions of the present invention generate less dust, making them safer for use in industrial environments compared to starting pigments (see dust data and test methods below).

[0026] The dispersions of this invention provide improvements for cosmetic applications, including but not limited to: lipsticks, concealers, eyeliners, lip oils, blush creams, matte lip creams, foundations, cream concealers, cream blushes, cream lip glosses, cream eyeshadows, emulsions for water / oil emulsions such as BB creams (concealers) and CC creams (color correctors), and oil / water emulsions such as primers.

[0027] The present invention, including its preferred embodiments, has been described in detail. However, those skilled in the art will understand upon considering this disclosure that modifications and / or improvements can be made to the invention within its scope and spirit.

[0028] Example

[0029] The technology of this application can be further described by the following non-limiting embodiments, which further illustrate the technology and are not intended to be, nor should they be construed as, limiting the scope. The percentage of material is a percentage by weight.

[0030] Table 3: Composition of the dispersions of the present invention and examples of optional waxes and oils. (wt%)

[0031]

[0032]

[0033]

[0034] All fineness readings measured by the Hegman gauge in Examples 1 to 36 were <10 μm.

[0035] Incorporating the solid dispersions of this invention into a range of different cosmetic formulations has demonstrated their suitability for these end uses. The solid dispersion formulations are not limiting, and it is evident that the dispersions of this invention can be used in other personal care and cosmetic applications (e.g., soaps, shampoos, etc.).

[0036] Table 4 - Natural Base Lipsticks (Example 37) (wt%)

[0037]

[0038] Table 5 - Color Concealer Sticks in Natural Matrix (Example 38) (wt%)

[0039]

[0040] Table 6 - Natural Matrix Dark Concealer Stick (Example 39) (wt%)

[0041]

[0042] Table 7 - Natural Matrix Cake Eyeliner Gel (Example 40) (wt%)

[0043]

[0044] Table 8 - Natural Base Lip Oils (Example 41) (wt%)

[0045]

[0046] Table 9 - Natural Matrix Lip Gloss (Example 42) (wt%)

[0047]

[0048]

[0049] Table 10 - Natural Base Blush Cream (Example 43) (wt%)

[0050]

[0051] Table 11 - Long-lasting matte lip cream (Example 44) (wt%)

[0052]

[0053] Table 12 - Cream Mascara Utilizing Colored Dry Dispersions (Example 45) (wt%)

[0054]

[0055] Table 13 - Glossy Lip Gloss (Example 46) (wt%)

[0056]

[0057] Table 14 - Cream Foundation (Example 47) (wt%)

[0058] Element INCI Light colors, % Dark colors, % Dry dispersion mixture Colored Composition 15 15 Dub 810 C Cocoyl octanoate / decanoate 25 30 High-quality organic olive oil - 10 10 Calcium carbonate Calcium carbonate 20 20 Satin Mica C86 6105 Mica 20 20 Sepifine BB branched starch 5 5 Lipex Shealight Ethyl shea butter 5 -

[0059] Table 15 - Foundation Cream Concealer (Example 48) (wt%)

[0060] Element INCI Light colors, % Dry dispersion mixture Colored Composition 15 Dub 810 C Cocoyl octanoate / decanoate 25 High-quality organic olive oil - 10 Lipex Shealight Ethyl shea butter 20 Calcium carbonate Calcium carbonate 12.5 Satin Mica C86 6105 Mica 12.5 Sepifine BB branched starch 5

[0061] Table 16: Tinted compositions for cream foundations and concealers (Example 49) (wt%)

[0062]

[0063] Table 17 - Two-in-one foundation cream-type pearlescent blush and lip gloss (Example 50) (wt%)

[0064]

[0065] Table 18 - Foundation Cream Blue Eyeshadow (Example 51) (wt%)

[0066] Element INCI blue,% R4223-29 (Example 18) Suncroma Ultramarine 15 Dub 810 C Cocoyl octanoate / decanoate 25 High-quality organic olive oil - 10 Calcium carbonate Calcium carbonate 20 Satin Mica C86-6105 mica 15 C83-1254 SunPuro Deep Blue Mica, TiO2, and blue iron 5 Sepifine BB branched starch 5 Lipex Shealight Ethyl shea butter 5

[0067] Table 19 - Green Eyeshadow in Foundation Formulation (Example 52) (wt%)

[0068]

[0069] Table 20 - Foundation Cream Purple Eyeshadow (Example 53) (wt%)

[0070] Element INCI Purple,% R4223-31 (Example 20) Suncroma Manganese Purple 10 R4223-18 (Example 17) Suncroma titanium dioxide 5 Dub 810 C Cocoyl octanoate / decanoate 25 High-quality organic olive oil - 10 Calcium carbonate Calcium carbonate 20 Satin Mica C86-6105 mica 15 C81-3740 SunSHINE Super Illusion Purple Synthesis of fluorophlogopite and titanium dioxide 5 Sepifine BB branched starch 5 Lipex Shealight Ethyl shea butter 5

[0071] Table 21 - Two-in-one foundation cream blue pearlescent eyeshadow (Example 54) (wt%)

[0072]

[0073] Table 22 - Two-in-one foundation cream-type green pearlescent eyeshadow (Example 55) (wt%)

[0074]

[0075] Table 23 - Two-in-one foundation cream purple pearlescent eyeshadow (Example 56) (wt%)

[0076]

[0077] Table 24 - Procedures for all cream foundation applications

[0078]

[0079] Table 25 - W / O Emulsion CC Cream (Example 57) (wt%)

[0080]

[0081] Table 26 - W / O Emulsion BB Cream (Example 58) (wt%)

[0082]

[0083] Table 27-O / W Makeup Primer (Example 59) (wt%)

[0084]

[0085] Table 28 - Solid soap sticks or solid shampoo sticks (Example 60) (wt%)

[0086]

[0087] First, the dry dispersion is melted and dispersed in the oil, and then the remaining ingredients are added.

[0088] Table 29 - Sweet Almond Solid Bars (Example 61) (wt%)

[0089] Element INCI ％ R4223-52 Cl 77491 Red Iron Oxide 0.02 R4223-18 Cl 77891 Titanium Dioxide 0.03 olive oil olive oil 51.55 Almond oil Almond oil 3.4 Coconut oil Coconut oil 13.6 caustic soda Sodium hydroxide 9 Sweet almond milk Almond (sweet almond milk) 8.1 water water 14.3

[0090] First, the dry dispersion is melted and dispersed in the oil, and then the remaining ingredients are added.

[0091] To demonstrate low dust emission, the following test was conducted:

[0092] Pour 10g of each sample into a clean, dry 500ml graduated measuring cylinder.

[0093] The results were quantified by observing the number of ml by which the dust moved upward along the graduated cylinder after being poured in, and the results are recorded in Table 3.

[0094] The farther the dust travels upward along the graduated cylinder, the more likely the dust will be to be dispersed in the embodiment.

[0095] Table 30: Comparison of dust emission data for pigments in dispersions of Examples 1, 4, and 6 ("Dust propagation distance" is in volume).

[0096] Example Dust travel distance (ml) R4223-59 (Dispersion of Example 1) 150 R4223-28 Example 4 Dispersion) 250 R4223-27 (Example 6 Dispersion) 150 FD&C Yellow 5 A1 Lake (Comparative Pigment) 500+ D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (Comparative Pigment) 500+ D&C Red 28 A1 Lake (Comparative Pigment) 500+

[0097] The data in Table 30 clearly demonstrate that the dispersion of the present invention has lower dust generation compared to the comparative pigment.

Claims

1. A method for providing a solid pigment dispersion, the method comprising: Melts one or more waxes and oils of plant origin at 60-70℃; Add a pigment approved for cosmetic use to form a paste; knead the paste to obtain a particle size of less than 15 μm; cool and crush the mixture to obtain a solid pigment dispersion in the form of a dry powder, wherein the pigment content is 25-75% by weight, the wax has a melting point of 40-70°C, and the wax to oil ratio is 1:1 to 4:

1.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the particle size is less than 10 μm.

3. A solid pigment dispersion prepared by the method of claim 1 or 2, the solid pigment dispersion comprising one or more pigments approved for cosmetic use, and a combination of one or more plant-based oils and one or more waxes, wherein the dispersion is in dry powder form, wherein the pigment content is 25-75% by weight, the wax to oil ratio is 1:1 to 4:1, and wherein the particle size of the pigment, as measured using a Hegman gauge with additional heating according to ASTM D1210-05, 2014 edition, is less than 15 μm, wherein the method uses a scraper to apply the pre-melted dispersion onto a Hegman gauge 50-0 micrometer trench preheated to 50°C to obtain a continuous layer from top to bottom within the trench.

4. The solid pigment dispersion according to claim 3, wherein all oils and / or waxes are plant-based.

5. The solid pigment dispersion according to claim 3, wherein the dispersion has a melting point above 30°C.

6. The solid pigment dispersion according to claim 3, wherein the dispersion has a melting point above 50°C.

7. The solid pigment dispersion according to claim 3, wherein the dispersion has low dust generation properties.

8. The solid pigment dispersion according to claim 3, wherein the pigment has a particle size of less than 10 μm.

9. The solid pigment dispersion according to claim 3, wherein the wax is selected from: rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, olive, castor bean, coconut, rapeseed, jojoba, argan oil, pistachio, almond, sumac wax, and combinations thereof.

10. The solid pigment dispersion according to claim 3, wherein the oil is selected from: heptyl undecanoate, cocoyl octanoate, cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, hydrogenated ethylhexyl oleate / hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables, propylene glycol dioctanoate, olive oil decyl ester / squalene, and combinations thereof.

11. A solid pigment dispersion for use in dust reduction, the solid pigment dispersion comprising one or more pigments approved for cosmetic use, and a combination of one or more plant-based oils and one or more waxes, wherein the dispersion is in dry powder form, wherein the pigment content is 25-75% by weight, the wax to oil ratio is 1:1 to 4:1, and wherein the particle size of the pigment, measured using a Hegman gauge with additional heating according to ASTM D1210-05, 2014 edition, is less than 15 μm, wherein the method uses a scraper to apply the pre-melted dispersion onto a Hegman gauge 50-0 micrometer trench preheated to 50°C to obtain a continuous layer from top to bottom within the trench.

12. A composition comprising the solid pigment dispersion according to any one of claims 3-10.

13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the composition is a personal care product or a cosmetic formulation.

Images