Ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The application provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.01-1% of non-ionic surfactant, 0.01-0.5% of phospholipid, 0.0001-0.1% of ceramide, 1-20% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, 1-15% of polyhydric alcohol and the balance of water. The application can effectively promote the synthesis of ceramide components in cells, stimulate the generation of collagen and elastin, and induce the expression of fibulin by using specific contents of phospholipid, ceramide and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol and the like in cooperation, and has the effects of skin barrier repair, anti-wrinkle and firming, water supplement and moisture retention, and prevention of skin moisture loss. The components in the vesicular carrier system of the application can be uniformly and stably dispersed, have high stability and adaptability, and can be used as raw material components of various cosmetic products; and the preparation process is simple, the required equipment is conventional equipment, industrial production can be conveniently realized, and energy consumption is reduced.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier and a preparation method and application thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] The skin is mainly divided into epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue, and the epidermis is further divided into stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale from outside to inside. The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis, which is composed of 5-15 layers of anucleated keratinocytes and intercellular substance. The cytoplasm is filled with keratin, and the keratinocytes are embedded in the intercellular substance. This structural feature is likened to a "brick wall structure", with "bricks" representing keratinocytes and "mortar" representing intercellular lipids. The stratum corneum is the main part of the skin to absorb external substances, accounting for 90% of the total absorption capacity of the skin.

[0003] The direct transdermal absorption pathway of external substances can be divided into three types: ① intercellular pathway: bypassing the keratinocytes, diffusing in the intercellular substance; ② transcellular pathway: directly penetrating the keratinocytes and intercellular substance, diffusing in the water phase and lipid phase alternately; and ③ paracellular pathway: bypassing the barrier function of the stratum corneum, diffusing directly to the dermis through the skin appendages such as hair follicles, sebaceous glands and sweat glands. The intercellular pathway has less resistance than the transcellular pathway, and is considered to be the main transdermal absorption pathway, accounting for 90% of the skin absorption capacity. Therefore, the composition and structure of the intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum are particularly important for the absorption of effective ingredients.

[0004] Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranyl triol is a xylose derivative extracted from beech trees with anti-aging effect. By promoting the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and proteoglycans, filling the gaps in the extracellular matrix, improving the ultrastructure of the stratum corneum junction, and reducing wrinkles; by promoting the synthesis of type IV collagen and type VII collagen, making the epidermis and dermis connect more closely, increasing the elasticity of the skin, and achieving the effect of anti-aging.

[0005] Chinese patent CN111773130A discloses a hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranyl triol complex, a preparation method and use thereof. By adding a certain proportion of low content of hyaluronic acid and / or its salt, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and / or its salt, and acetylchitose (hyaluronic acid precursor) in the complex with hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranyl triol as the main component, through appropriate ratio, the synergistic effect of each component in efficacy is fully played, and the functions of moisturizing and anti-aging for skin care are maximized.

[0006] However, since the stratum corneum mainly absorbs fat-soluble substances, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is a water-soluble component, and the target position of the anti-aging effect is in the deep layer of the skin, when hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is used, there are still problems of poor permeability, poor skin absorption, and low utilization rate, and it cannot exert the best anti-aging effect. SUMMARY

[0007] In view of the above problems, the present application provides a ceramide-containing vesicle carrier, which adds ceramide to the outer bilayer of the liposome and adds hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol to the inner water phase, the phospholipid bilayer in the liposome forms an elastic vesicle structure, and the ceramide can soften the intercellular lipid structure, together promoting the penetration of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol from the superficial layer to the deep layer of the skin, and accumulating and storing it in the epidermis and dermis, achieving a layer-by-layer release and synergistic effect.

[0008] In one aspect, the present application provides a ceramide-containing vesicle carrier, which comprises, by weight percentage: non-ionic surfactant: 0.01-1%, phospholipid: 0.01-0.5%, ceramide: 0.0001-0.1%, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol: 1-20%, polyol: 1-15%, and water in excess.

[0009] Further preferably, the ceramide-containing vesicle carrier comprises, by weight percentage: non-ionic surfactant: 0.05-0.5%, phospholipid: 0.1-0.3%, ceramide: 0.0005-0.005%, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol: 5-15%, polyol: 3-12%, and water in excess.

[0010] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is one or more combinations of lauryl polyether-4, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24, and cholesteroly polyether-24.

[0011] Further preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is cholesteroly polyether-24.

[0012] Preferably, the ceramide is ceramide NP.

[0013] Preferably, the phospholipid is one or more combinations of lecithin, soybean lecithin, and hydrogenated lecithin.

[0014] Further preferably, the phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin.

[0015] Phospholipids have similar structure to cell membrane, and have excellent skin affinity and stability. In the composition system of the present application, when specific amounts of phospholipids, ceramides, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triols and other ingredients are used in combination, a stable bilayer vesicular structure can be formed to encapsulate ceramides and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triols, ceramides are present in the outer layer of the bilayer, and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triols are stably present in the inner aqueous phase of the bilayer.

[0016] The inventors found that, especially when ceramides and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triols are used simultaneously, excellent skin barrier repair, anti-wrinkle firming, long-acting moisturizing and hydrating effects can be achieved. The inventors analyzed that this may be due to the fact that, when used, ceramides can first penetrate the skin to soften the intercellular lipid structure, while phospholipid bilayers encapsulate hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol components, phospholipids and lipids in the stratum corneum fuse, promoting the penetration of the encapsulated hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol in the inner layer through the stratum corneum to the dermis, which can more effectively penetrate the superficial layer of the skin to reach the deep layer; and accumulate and store in the epidermis and dermis, achieving a layer-by-layer release and synergistic effect, effectively promoting the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans, filling the gaps in the extracellular matrix, improving the ultrastructure of the dermal-epidermal junction, reducing wrinkles; by promoting the synthesis of collagen, strengthening the dermal-epidermal junction, increasing skin elasticity, and achieving an anti-aging effect. At the same time, due to the stable bilayer vesicular structure, the problem of poor penetration and poor skin absorption of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triols when used is effectively solved.

[0017] However, the inventors found that if the content of phospholipids is too low, the effective encapsulation structure cannot be formed, and it is difficult to carry active ingredients for deep skin action; but if the content of phospholipids is too high, it will affect the stability and repair effect of the composition. The inventors analyzed that this may be due to the fact that too much phospholipid component leads to the formation of large vesicular structures, which makes it difficult for active ingredients to disperse uniformly and thus affects the use effect, and the large vesicular structures are prone to aggregation and rupture in the system, affecting their stability, and once the original vesicular structure is broken, the encapsulated active ingredients are released and dispersed, making it difficult to effectively penetrate the superficial layer of the skin and achieve a deep effect.

[0018] Preferably, the polyol is one or a combination of glycerol, 1,3-butanediol, and dipropylene glycol.

[0019] Further preferably, the polyol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 1,2-hexanediol.

[0020] Further preferably, the mass ratio of dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 1,2-hexanediol is (1-3): 1: 1.

[0021] Further preferably, the mass ratio of the dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol is 2:1:1.

[0022] The inventors found that when the mass ratio of the dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol is (1-3):1:1, the vesicular carrier has excellent stability and skin barrier repair, anti-wrinkle and firming effects. The inventors analyzed that this may be because under this condition, the vesicular carrier structure of the phospholipid bilayer can stably exist, and together with other ingredients in the system, a stable water-oil balance is formed, effectively enhancing the stability of the structure, thereby further enhancing the use effect.

[0023] In another aspect, the present application provides a preparation method of a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, which specifically comprises the following steps:

[0024] S1, mixing ceramide, nonionic surfactant and phospholipid, heating at 50-80°C, and stirring to dissolve to obtain solution A;

[0025] S2, mixing polyol, water and hydroxypropyl tetrahydro pyran triol, heating at 50-80°C, and stirring to dissolve to obtain solution B;

[0026] S3, adding solution A obtained in step S1 to solution B obtained in step S2, stirring for 5-10 min, and filtering to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0027] In a third aspect, the present application provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier for use in cosmetics, which includes water, emulsion, spray, cream or mask.

[0028] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following beneficial effects:

[0029] 1) The phospholipid component in the vesicular carrier of the present application can enhance skin hydration, improve the ability of the ceramide wrapped in the bilayer to associate with water molecules, and maintain skin moisture and softness; when used, the phospholipid of the liposome fuses with the lipids in the stratum corneum, promotes the penetration of the hydroxypropyl tetrahydro pyran triol wrapped in the inner layer to the dermis through the stratum corneum, strengthens the junction between the epidermis and the dermis, and increases skin elasticity; at the same time, water-soluble and fat-soluble ingredients are carried, which are released layer by layer and continuously, thereby increasing the action time of the effective ingredients on the skin.

[0030] 2) By using specific amounts of phospholipids, ceramides and hydroxypropyl tetrahydro pyran triol and other ingredients, the synthesis of ceramide components in cells can be effectively promoted, the production of collagen and elastin can be stimulated, and the expression of fibronectin can be induced, thereby having significant effects of skin barrier repair, anti-wrinkle and firming, moisturizing, and preventing loss of skin moisture.

[0031] 3) The components in the vesicle carrier system of the present application can be uniformly and stably dispersed, have high stability and adaptability, and can be used as raw material components of various cosmetic products; and the preparation process is simple, the required equipment is all conventional equipment, facilitating industrialized production and reducing energy consumption. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0032] Figure 1 The influence of different samples on HEKa cell ceramide synthesis (umol / l) in the skin barrier repair effect test of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 of the present application;

[0033] Figure 2 The influence of different samples on HEKa cell hyaluronic acid synthesis (ug / ml) in the skin barrier repair effect test of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 of the present application;

[0034] Figure 3 The fibulin FLG gene expression analysis chart in the skin barrier function state test of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 of the present application;

[0035] Figure 4 The fibulin degradation related gene CASP14 expression analysis chart in the skin barrier function state test of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 of the present application;

[0036] Figure 5 The Collagen I protein content result summary chart in the anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy test of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 of the present application;

[0037] Figure 6 The elastin content result summary chart in the anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy test of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 of the present application;

[0038] Figure 7 The skin water content test result chart of Example 1 of the present application;

[0039] Figure 8 The trans-epidermal water loss value test result chart of Example 1 of the present application;

[0040] Figure 9 The skin wrinkle improvement rate test result chart of Example 1 of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0041] In order to make the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the present application more clear and explicit, the following embodiments are used to further illustrate the present application. It should be noted that the following embodiments are further illustrations of the present application, but not limitations of the present application.

[0042] EMBODIMENT

[0043] Example 1

[0044] The present embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, comprising, by weight percentage:

[0045] Nonionic surfactant: 0.1%, phospholipid: 0.2%, ceramide: 0.001%, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol: 10%, polyol: 10%, and water in balance.

[0046] The nonionic surfactant is cholesteroly polyether-24, purchased from NIHON EMULSION;

[0047] The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, purchased from NIKKOL;

[0048] The ceramide is ceramide NP, purchased from DOOSAN;

[0049] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is purchased from Gansu Fanyi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., with a purity of more than 90%;

[0050] The polyol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 1,2-hexanediol in a mass ratio of 5:2:2.

[0051] The present embodiment provides a preparation method of a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, comprising the following steps:

[0052] S1. 0.001 parts of ceramide NP, 0.1 parts of cholesteroly polyether-24, and 0.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin are heated at 70°C and stirred to dissolve to obtain solution A;

[0053] S2. 5 parts of dipropylene glycol, 2 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 2 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, 10 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, and deionized water are mixed and heated at 55°C and stirred to dissolve to obtain solution B;

[0054] S3. Solution A obtained in step S1 is added to solution B obtained in step S2, stirred for 10 min, and filtered to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0055] Example 2

[0056] The present embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, comprising, by weight percentage:

[0057] Nonionic surfactant: 0.1%, phospholipid: 0.1%, ceramide: 0.0005%, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol: 5%, polyol: 4%, and water in balance.

[0058] The nonionic surfactant is cholesteroly polyether-24, purchased from NIHON EMULSION;

[0059] The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, which is purchased from NIKKOL Company;

[0060] The ceramide is ceramide NP, which is purchased from DOOSAN;

[0061] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is purchased from Gansu Fanyi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., and has a purity of more than 90%.

[0062] The polyhydric alcohol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol at a mass ratio of 2:1:1.

[0063] In another aspect, the embodiment provides a preparation method of the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and the specific preparation method is as follows:

[0064] S1, 0.0005 parts of ceramide NP, 0.1 parts of cholesteroly polyether-24 and 0.1 parts of hydrogenated lecithin are heated at 70°C and stirred and dissolved to obtain solution A;

[0065] S2, 2 parts of dipropylene glycol, 1 part of 1,2-pentanediol, 1 part of 1,2-hexanediol, 5 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol and deionized water are mixed, heated at 55°C and stirred and dissolved to obtain solution B;

[0066] S3, the solution A obtained in step S1 is added to the solution B obtained in step S2, stirred for 10 min, and filtered to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0067] Example 3

[0068] In one aspect, the embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, which comprises, by weight percentage:

[0069] The non-ionic surfactant is 1%, the phospholipid is 0.3%, the ceramide is 0.005%, the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is 15%, the polyhydric alcohol is 12%, and the water is the balance.

[0070] The non-ionic surfactant is cholesteroly polyether-24, which is purchased from NIHON EMULSION;

[0071] The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, which is purchased from NIKKOL Company;

[0072] The ceramide is ceramide NP, which is purchased from DOOSAN Company;

[0073] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is purchased from Gansu Fanyi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., and has a purity of more than 90%.

[0074] The polyhydric alcohol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol at a mass ratio of 2:1:1.

[0075] The other aspect of the embodiment provides a preparation method of the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and the specific preparation method is as follows:

[0076] S1, 0.005 parts of ceramide NP, 1 part of cholesterol polyether-24, 0.3 parts of hydrogenated lecithin were heated at 70°C and dissolved by stirring to obtain solution A;

[0077] S2, 6 parts of dipropylene glycol, 3 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 3 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, 15 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, and deionized water were mixed, heated at 55°C, and dissolved by stirring to obtain solution B;

[0078] S3, solution A obtained in step S1 was added to solution B obtained in step S2, stirred for 10 min, and filtered to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0079] Comparative Example 1

[0080] The embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier contains, by weight percentage:

[0081] nonionic surfactant: 0.1%, phospholipid: 0.2%, ceramide: 0.001%, polyol: 10%, and water in balance.

[0082] The nonionic surfactant is cholesterol polyether-24, which is purchased from NIHON EMULSION Co., Ltd.;

[0083] The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, which is purchased from NIKKOL Co., Ltd.;

[0084] The ceramide is ceramide NP, which is purchased from DOOSAN Co., Ltd.;

[0085] The polyol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 1,2-hexanediol with a mass ratio of 2:1:1.

[0086] The other aspect of the embodiment provides a preparation method of the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and the specific preparation method is as follows:

[0087] S1, 0.001 parts of ceramide NP, 0.1 parts of cholesterol polyether-24, and 0.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin were heated at 70°C and dissolved by stirring to obtain solution A;

[0088] S2, 5 parts of dipropylene glycol, 2 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 2 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, and deionized water were mixed, heated at 55°C, and dissolved by stirring to obtain solution B;

[0089] S3, solution A obtained in step S1 was added to solution B obtained in step S2, stirred for 10 min, and filtered to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0090] Comparative Example 2

[0091] The embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

[0092] The nonionic surfactant is cholesteroly polyether-24, which is purchased from NIHON EMULSION Company;

[0093] The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, which is purchased from NIKKOL Company;

[0094] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol is purchased from Gansu Fanyi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., and the purity is more than 90 %;

[0095] The polyhydric alcohol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol with a mass ratio of 2:1:1.

[0096] The embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

[0097] The embodiment provides a preparation method of the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0098] S1, 0.1 parts of cholesteroly polyether-24 and 0.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin are heated at 70 DEG C and stirred to be dissolved to obtain solution A;

[0099] S2, 5 parts of dipropylene glycol, 2 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 2 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, 10 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol and deionized water are mixed, heated at 55 DEG C and stirred to be dissolved to obtain solution B;

[0100] S3, the solution A obtained in step S1 is added to the solution B obtained in step S2, stirred for 10 min, and filtered to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0101] Comparative Example 3

[0102] The embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

[0103] The nonionic surfactant is cholesteroly polyether-24, which is purchased from NIHON EMULSION Company;

[0104] The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, which is purchased from NIKKOL Company;

[0105] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol is purchased from Gansu Fanyi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., and the purity is more than 90 %;

[0106] The ceramide is ceramide NP, which is purchased from DOOSAN company;

[0107] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is purchased from Gansu Fanyi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., and the purity is more than 90%;

[0108] The polyhydric alcohol is 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol with a mass ratio of 1:1.

[0109] In another aspect, the embodiment provides a preparation method of the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and the specific preparation method is as follows:

[0110] S1, 0.001 parts of ceramide NP, 0.1 parts of cholesterol polyether-24, and 0.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin are heated at 70°C and stirred to dissolve to obtain solution A;

[0111] S2, 5 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 5 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, 10 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, and deionized water are mixed and heated at 55°C and stirred to dissolve to obtain solution B;

[0112] S3, the solution A obtained in step S1 is added to the solution B obtained in step S2, stirred for 10 min, and filtered to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0113] Comparative example 4

[0114] In one aspect, the embodiment provides a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and the specific embodiment is the same as that of example 1, except that

[0115] By weight percentage, it includes:

[0116] Nonionic surfactant: 0.1%, phospholipid: 0.8%, ceramide: 0.001%, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol: 10%, polyhydric alcohol: 10%, and water in balance.

[0117] The nonionic surfactant is cholesterol polyether-24, which is purchased from NIHON EMULSION company;

[0118] The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin, which is purchased from NIKKOL company;

[0119] The ceramide is ceramide NP, which is purchased from DOOSAN company;

[0120] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol is purchased from Gansu Fanyi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., and the purity is more than 90%;

[0121] The polyhydric alcohol is 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol with a mass ratio of 1:1.

[0122] The other aspect of the embodiment provides a preparation method of the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, and the specific preparation method is as follows:

[0123] S1, 0.001 parts of ceramide NP, 0.1 parts of cholesteryl polyether-24, 0.8 parts of hydrogenated lecithin were heated at 70°C and stirred and dissolved to obtain solution A;

[0124] S2, 5 parts of dipropylene glycol, 2 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 2 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, 10 parts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, and deionized water were mixed, heated at 55°C, and stirred and dissolved to obtain solution B;

[0125] S3, the solution A obtained in step S1 was added to the solution B obtained in step S2, stirred for 10 min, and filtered to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicular carrier.

[0126] Performance test

[0127] 1, skin barrier repair effect test:

[0128] The effects of the ceramide and hyaluronic acid secreted by the keratinocyte strain HEKa cells were tested by the example 1 and the comparative examples 1-2, so as to evaluate the repair effect on the skin barrier function.

[0129] Test method: human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKa) were selected, and the Epilife medium (containing PSA liquid: penicillin, streptomycin and amphotericin B) was cultured at 37°C in a 5% CO2 incubator, and when the cells grew to 80% confluence, they were digested with trypsin / EDTA (trypsin), and were subcultured into 25cm TM culture bottles at a density of about 2.5*10 3 / cm 2 , and were subcultured once every 3-5 days. 2

[0130] The logarithmic growth period cells were routinely digested, the HEKa cell concentration was adjusted to 5*10 4 / ml, 100ul was inoculated in a 96-well plate, and grew to a near confluence state, the Epilife medium in the 96-well plate was replaced, and was cultured for 24h, then 100ul of the treated negative control and the test samples 1, 2 and 3 were added to each well. The test samples were Epilife medium solutions containing 1% of the example 1, 1% of the comparative example 1 and 1% of the comparative example 2, respectively, 5 replicate wells were set for each sample, and were placed in an incubator for 24h, and the supernatant of the HEKa cells was collected for ELISA determination. TM TM

[0131] The test results are shown in Figure 1 , Figure 2 .​​​Figure 1 、 Figure 2 In Chinese: ***, **, and * represent the significance levels of 1%, 5%, and 10%, respectively.

[0132] Depend on Figure 1 It can be seen that compared with the negative control, both Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 have significant differences; compared with Comparative Example 1, Example 1 shows significant differences, indicating that Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 containing ceramide have a positive effect on the ceramide synthesis of HEKa cells, and the effect of Example 1 is stronger than that of Comparative Example 1.

[0133] Depend on Figure 2 It can be seen that compared with the negative control, both Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 have significant differences; compared with Comparative Example 2, Example 1 shows significant differences, indicating that Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 containing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol have a positive effect on the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in HEKa cells, and the effect of Example 1 is stronger than that of Comparative Example 2.

[0134] 2. Skin barrier function status test:

[0135] The effects of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 on the expression of the CASP14 gene were tested to evaluate their effects on the skin barrier function.

[0136] Filaggrin (FLG) is a crucial component of keratinocyte terminal differentiation and plays a crucial role in epidermal differentiation and formation. Caspase 14 (CASP14, an aspartame proteolytic enzyme) catalyzes the synthesis of FLG. The combination of these two components is crucial for the formation of the skin's surface barrier. Therefore, these two components can also be used as indicators for evaluating the status of the skin's barrier function.

[0137] Testing method: Real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR was used to detect the regulation of the composition on the expression of the target gene.

[0138] Five groups were set up on a 6-well plate, namely: negative control, positive control (containing hyaluronic acid HA at a mass concentration of 0.01%), control containing 0.3% of comparative example 1, control containing 0.3% of comparative example 2, and control containing 0.3% of embodiment 1.

[0139] HaCaT cells were 3*10 5The cells were seeded into 6-well plates at 1X concentrations per well and cultured for 24 hours to allow adherent growth. The composition was prepared into a 1X serial dilution with a total of two concentrations, and 2 ml was added to each well of the cell plate. After further incubation in a 37°C 5% CO2 incubator for 24 hours, the cells were harvested and total cellular RNA was extracted using the PureLink mini RNA extraction kit. The nucleic acid concentration was quantified, and 200-800 ng of RNA per tube was used as a template. The relative expression levels of each gene were detected by real-time quantitative fluorescence PCR using a Taqman one-step reaction (reverse transcription + Real Time-PCR) (20 μl system).

[0140] Calculation formula:

[0141] Fold change = 2 -∆∆CT ;

[0142] -∆∆CT = [(CT target gene – CT internal reference gene) test group - (CT target gene – CT internal reference gene) control group].

[0143] In this experiment, there are two target genes, FLG and CASP14, and one internal reference gene, GAPDH.

[0144] The test results are as follows Figure 3 、 Figure 4 As stated. Figure 3 、 Figure 4 In Chinese: ***, **, and * represent the significance levels of 1%, 5%, and 10%, respectively.

[0145] Depend on Figures 3-4 It can be seen that

[0146] 1) FLG gene expression Figure 3 As shown, Example 1, HA, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 can all significantly induce its expression, with Example 1 having the most obvious effect. The up-regulation trend of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 is not obvious. The order of up-regulation expression is Example 1>HA>Comparative Example 1>Comparative Example 2.

[0147] 2) Filaggrin degradation Figure 4 As shown, Example 1, HA and Comparative Example 1 can all significantly increase the expression of the CASP14 gene, and the effect of Example 1 is the most obvious. Comparative Example 2 slightly upregulates its expression, with no significant difference. The order of upregulation of expression is Example 1>HA>Comparative Example 1>Comparative Example 2.

[0148] 3. Anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy test:

[0149] The effects of the changes in the contents of Collagen I and Elastin were tested in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 to evaluate the anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy thereof.

[0150] Collagen I is Collagen I, which accounts for about 80% of the dermis of the skin, and makes the skin full and plump. An increase in the content can achieve the effect of resisting wrinkles. Elastin is the main protein that constitutes elastic fibers, and an increase in the content can improve the elasticity of the skin. In this experiment, fibroblasts were used as a research model, and a UVA irradiation was used to establish an in vitro photoaging model. The anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy of the test substance was analyzed by detecting the changes in the contents of Collagen I and Elastin.

[0151] Test method: test scheme table 1.

[0152] Table 1 test scheme

[0153]

[0154] According to the test scheme in table 1, when the plating rate of the cells in the 6-well plate reached 40%-60%, the cells were inoculated into the 6-well plate at a seeding density of 2*10 5 cells / well, 2ml was added to each well, 3 replicate wells were set for each group, and incubated in an incubator (37℃, 5% CO2) for 24h. According to the grouping, UVA irradiation of 30J / cm 2 was performed, and the cells were incubated in an incubator (37℃, 5% CO2) for 24h. The cell culture supernatant was collected and detected according to the ELISA kit instruction.

[0155] The test results are described in Figure 5 , Figure 6 . Figure 5 , Figure 6 Compared with the blank control group, the significance is represented by #, and ###, ## and # represent the significance levels of 1%, 5% and 10%, respectively; compared with the negative control group, ***, ** and * represent the significance levels of 1%, 5% and 10%, respectively.

[0156] As can be seen from Figure 5 and Figure 6 ,

[0157] Compared with the blank control group, the contents of Collagen I protein and elastin in the negative control group were significantly decreased, indicating that the test stimulation condition was effective.

[0158] Compared with the negative control group, the contents of Collagen I protein and elastin in the positive control group were significantly increased, indicating that the positive control was effective in this test.

[0159] The Collagen I protein content of Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 increased significantly compared with the negative control group, with an increase rate of 50.16% and 119.25%, respectively.

[0160] The elastin content of Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 increased significantly compared with the negative control group, with an increase rate of 17.94% and 38.26%, respectively.

[0161] 4. Skin moisture content, transepidermal water loss value, and skin wrinkle test:

[0162] Test method:

[0163] Thirty healthy volunteers aged 30-45 years were selected. An emulsion containing 2% of Example 1 was used, and the whole face was used, once in the morning and once in the evening, for 4 consecutive weeks. The skin moisture content and transepidermal water loss value were measured using a Corneometer, and the skin wrinkles were measured using an Antera3D. The results are shown in Tables 3, 4, and 5. Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9

[0164] 5. Stability test

[0165] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were packaged in colorless transparent plastic jars (not open). The glass bottles were placed at -7, 4, 25, 27, and 45°C, respectively, and under light (room temperature 25°C) for 2 months, and the appearance was continuously observed; the degree of change was represented by 0-3, 0 for no obvious change in texture, 1 for acceptable slight changes (such as slight change in viscosity), 2 for unacceptable changes (such as obvious thickening, precipitation), and 3 for severe changes (such as severe volume reduction, layering, and crystal precipitation). The test results are shown in Table 2.

[0166] Table 2

[0167] ​​​

Claims

1. A ceramide-containing vesicular carrier, characterized by, By weight percentage, comprising: non-ionic surfactant: 0.01-1%, phospholipid: 0.01-0.5%, ceramide: 0.0001-0.1%, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol: 1-20%, polyol: 1-15%, water balance; The non-ionic surfactant is cholesteropolyether-24; The phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin; The polyol is dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol; the mass ratio of dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-hexanediol is (1-3):1:

1.

2. The method for preparing a ceramide-containing vesicular carrier according to claim 1, characterized by, Specifically comprising the following steps: S1, mixing ceramide, non-ionic surfactant and phospholipid, heating at 50-80℃, stirring and dissolving to obtain solution A; S2, mixing polyol, water and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, heating at 50-80℃, stirring and dissolving to obtain solution B; S3, adding solution A obtained in step S1 to solution B obtained in step S2, stirring for 5-10min, and filtering to obtain the ceramide-containing vesicle carrier.

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