Oily cosmetic

By using glossy pigments with a specific particle size ratio and polymer-based oil phase thickeners in oil-based cosmetics to adjust viscosity, the problems of uneven appearance and ripples in oil-based cosmetics are solved, achieving excellent gloss effects.

CN116367819BActive Publication Date: 2026-01-06SHISEIDO CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202180067155.5
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2020-10-30
Filing Date
2021-10-18
Publication Date
2026-01-06
Estimated Expiration
2041-10-18

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

When existing oil-based cosmetics are mixed with colored glossy pigments or colorless glossy pigments and colorants, uneven or striped ripples are easily produced, affecting the appearance and gloss.

Method used

An oil-based cosmetic was prepared by using a first glossy pigment with an average particle size of less than 80 μm and a second glossy pigment with an average particle size of more than 80 μm in a mass ratio of 55:45 to 100:0, using a polymer-based oil phase thickener with a thickening particle content of less than 4.0% by mass, and adjusting the viscosity to above 50 mPa·s at 80 to 150 °C.

Benefits of technology

It effectively reduces or suppresses uneven or streaky ripples, enhances the appearance and gloss of oil-based cosmetics, and provides excellent shine.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

Provided is an oily cosmetic having a pattern like a wave that is not uneven or striped, in which the pattern is reduced or suppressed, and the appearance has excellent glossiness. The oily cosmetic of the present disclosure contains a first luster pigment having an average particle diameter of 80 μm or less, and a polymer-based oil phase thickener, the mass ratio of the first luster pigment to a second luster pigment having an average particle diameter exceeding 80 μm is 55:45 to 100:0, the mass ratio of the first luster pigment to a colorant, in the case of containing a colorant, is 2.0 or more, the content of thickening particles is less than 4.0 mass%, and the viscosity at at least one of the temperatures of 80 to 150°C is 50 mPa·s or more.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This disclosure relates to oil-based cosmetics. Background Technology

[0002] In recent years, various oil-based cosmetics have been developed.

[0003] Patent Document 1 discloses a rod-shaped oily solid cosmetic having a transparent outer layer and a colored inner layer that are connected to each other. The outer layer contains at least polyglycerol fatty acid esters of branched fatty acids with a degree of polymerization of 6 to 12 and a number of carbon atoms of dibutyllauroyl glutamine, dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamine, and glycerol, which are components (A), (B), and (C), respectively.

[0004] Patent Document 2 discloses a rod-shaped cosmetic containing (a) polyethylene wax with a crystallization start temperature of 80 to 95°C and (b) microcrystalline wax with a crystallization start temperature of 85 to 100°C in a mass ratio of (a):(b) = 99:1 to 60:40, and containing (c) liquid oil with an IOB of 0.2 or more of 30% by mass.

[0005] Existing technical documents

[0006] Patent documents

[0007] Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2017-119698

[0008] Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2008-133205 Summary of the Invention

[0009] The problem that the invention aims to solve

[0010] For example, it is known that techniques are used to impart a glossy texture, such as a pearlescent sheen, to the lips by mixing colored glossy pigments, or colorless or white glossy pigments and colorants, into oil-based cosmetics such as lipsticks.

[0011] Oil-based cosmetics such as lipsticks are prepared by heating and melting solid formulations such as waxes, mixing them with additives such as pigments, pouring the resulting mixture into a mold, and then cooling it. In this process, as additives, for example, if colored glossy pigments are used, or if colorless or white glossy pigments are used in combination with colorants, sometimes a certain effect may occur. Figure 1 (a) shows an uneven or striped wavy pattern. Even when using an oil-based cosmetic with such a pattern, such as a lipstick, and applying it to the lips, it will appear as... Figure 1 As shown in (b), it fully achieves the texture of color and gloss, and therefore, in the past, it was often manufactured in the state of having an uneven or striped wavy pattern on the appearance of oily cosmetics.

[0012] However, in recent years, in addition to simple properties such as color retention or good color rendering, oil-based cosmetics such as lipsticks have also placed emphasis on the aesthetic appearance of the oil-based cosmetics themselves.

[0013] Therefore, the subject of this disclosure is to provide an oil-based cosmetic that reduces or suppresses uneven or striped patterns and has excellent gloss.

[0014] Methods for solving problems

[0015] <Option 1>

[0016] An oil-based cosmetic comprises a first glossy pigment with an average particle size of less than 80 μm and a polymer-based oil-phase thickener.

[0017] The mass ratio of the first glossy pigment to the second glossy pigment with an average particle size exceeding 80 μm is 55:45 to 100:0.

[0018] When colorants are included, the mass ratio of the first glossy pigment to the aforementioned colorant is 2.0 or more.

[0019] The content of thickening particles is less than 4.0% by mass, and,

[0020] The viscosity is above 50 mPa·s at at least a portion of the temperatures between 80 and 150°C.

[0021] Option 2

[0022] According to the cosmetic material described in Scheme 1, the content of the first glossy pigment is 2.0% by mass or more.

[0023] Option 3

[0024] According to the cosmetic of Scheme 1 or 2, the above-mentioned polymeric oil phase thickener comprises a copolymer having at least one selected from ethylene monomer units and styrene monomer units.

[0025] Option 4

[0026] The cosmetic material according to any one of Schemes 1 to 3 further comprises hydrocarbon oil.

[0027] Option 5

[0028] The cosmetic material according to any one of Schemes 1 to 4 comprises a pigment, and the first glossy pigment is a colorless or white glossy pigment.

[0029] <Option 6>

[0030] The cosmetic material according to any one of Schemes 1 to 5 is used as a lipstick.

[0031] <Option 7>

[0032] The method for manufacturing a cosmetic material according to any one of Schemes 1 to 6 includes the following steps: melting a raw material mixture containing the first glossy pigment and the polymer-based oil phase thickener at a temperature of 80 to 150°C and at a temperature that makes the viscosity of the mixture 50 mPa·s or higher, and then injecting it into a mold.

[0033] The effects of the invention

[0034] According to this disclosure, an oil-based cosmetic can be provided that reduces or suppresses patterns such as uneven or striped ripples (sometimes simply referred to as "ripples") and has excellent gloss. Attached Figure Description

[0035] Figure 1 (a) is a photograph of the appearance of the wavy, rod-shaped oily cosmetic, and (b) is a photograph of the appearance after the cosmetic is applied to the skin.

[0036] Figure 2 (a) is a photograph of the appearance of a rod-shaped oily cosmetic with reduced ripples but lacking surface gloss, and (b) is a photograph of the appearance of a rod-shaped oily cosmetic according to an embodiment of the present disclosure with reduced ripples and excellent surface gloss. Detailed Implementation

[0037] The embodiments of this disclosure will now be described in detail. This disclosure is not limited to the following embodiments, and various modifications can be made within the scope of the original intent of the invention.

[0038] The oil-based cosmetic disclosed herein (sometimes simply referred to as "cosmetic") comprises the following components: a first glossy pigment having an average particle size of 80 μm or less, and a polymer-based oil phase thickener; the mass ratio of the first glossy pigment to a second glossy pigment having an average particle size of more than 80 μm is 55:45 to 100:0; when a colorant is included, the mass ratio of the first glossy pigment to the colorant is 2.0 or more; the content of thickening particles is less than 4.0% by mass; and the viscosity at at least a portion of temperatures from 80 to 150°C is 50 mPa·s or more.

[0039] Although not limited by principle, it can be assumed that the unevenness or striped wavy patterns of such oily cosmetics are reduced or suppressed, and the gloss of the appearance is excellent. The working principle is as follows.

[0040] For example, rod-shaped oily cosmetics are generally prepared by injecting a mixture containing a solid preparation such as a heated and melted wax and additives such as glossy pigments from above a mold and then cooling it. During this process, convection occurs within the mold accompanying the injection, and the glossy pigments, etc., orient themselves along the flow of this convection. Upon cooling and solidification in this state, it is assumed that unevenness or streaky ripples will appear on the appearance of the rod. The oily cosmetic of this disclosure is designed to have a viscosity of 50 mPa·s or higher at at least a portion of a temperature between 80 and 150°C, for example, at the temperature at which the raw material mixture for the rod-shaped oily cosmetic is melted and then injected into the mold to form the rod-shaped cosmetic. It is assumed that the orientation of the glossy pigments caused by the aforementioned convection is reduced or suppressed, resulting in reduced or suppressed ripples on the appearance of the oily cosmetic.

[0041] Regarding the gloss of oil-based cosmetics, the size of the gloss pigment can be considered as having an impact. For example, with gloss pigments having a flake-like shape, a large flat surface is most conducive to gloss. Striped ripples, for example, appear as horizontal stripe patterns. In the case of horizontal stripe patterns, the large flake-like gloss pigment, along with the convection flow, tends to be oriented in a manner that is approximately perpendicular to the axis in the rod, thus it can be considered that large gloss pigments are less likely to contribute to the gloss of oil-based cosmetics.

[0042] On the other hand, in the case of small glossy pigments with an average particle size of 80 μm or less, it can be considered that these glossy pigments tend to move in the cosmetic while randomly rotating through convection. As a result, the flat surface of the glossy pigment, which contributes to gloss, is also more easily oriented in the rod in a direction approximately parallel to the axial direction compared to larger glossy pigments. Therefore, it can be considered that the use of small glossy pigments with an average particle size of 80 μm or less can improve the surface gloss of the appearance of oily cosmetics.

[0043] It was then determined that if, in addition to small glossy pigments with an average particle size of 80 μm or less (first glossy pigment), large glossy pigments with an average particle size exceeding 80 μm (second glossy pigment) are used, the surface appearance of the oil-based cosmetic may sometimes be impaired. This can be attributed to the aforementioned orientation of the large glossy pigments with an average particle size exceeding 80 μm, which hinders the random rotational movement of smaller glossy pigments. Considering the cosmetic of this disclosure using glossy pigments in such a configuration, by maintaining a mass ratio of the first glossy pigment with an average particle size of 80 μm or less to the second glossy pigment with an average particle size exceeding 80 μm of 55:45 to 100:0, this problem can be solved, and the glossiness of the oil-based cosmetic can be improved.

[0044] Furthermore, when the size of the glossy pigment is large, it can be considered that even if thickening particles such as pigment and / or smoky silica are attached to the flat surface of the glossy pigment that contributes to gloss, the effect of reduced gloss is minimal due to the large area of ​​the flat surface. However, in the case of small glossy pigments with an average particle size of 80 μm or less, the small area of ​​the flat surface makes it difficult to achieve gloss if pigment and / or thickening particles are attached to it. The cosmetic of this disclosure solves this problem by making the content of thickening particles less than 4.0% by mass, and furthermore, by making the mass ratio of the first glossy pigment with an average particle size of 80 μm or less to the pigment more than 2.0 when using pigment, thereby improving the gloss of the appearance of the oily cosmetic.

[0045] By employing the above-described composition, the oil-based cosmetic of this disclosure can reduce or suppress patterns such as unevenness or striped ripples, and can provide the appearance of the oil-based cosmetic with an excellent gloss that has not been seen to date, such as the appearance of a new car body or the appearance of glossy pigments applied directly to the surface of the oil-based cosmetic.

[0046] Oil-based cosmetics

[0047] The oil-based cosmetic disclosed herein exhibits a viscosity of 50 mPa·s or higher at at least a portion of temperatures between 80 and 150°C, for example, at 90°C. Such a viscosity, from the viewpoint of the cosmetic's gloss and reduction or suppression of waviness, can be, for example, 50 mPa·s or higher, 60 mPa·s or higher, 70 mPa·s or higher, 80 mPa·s or higher, 90 mPa·s or higher, or 100 mPa·s or higher. There is no particular limitation on the upper limit of the viscosity; for example, it can be 35,000 mPa·s or lower, 30,000 mPa·s or lower, 25,000 mPa·s or lower, 20,000 mPa·s or lower, 15,000 mPa·s or lower, 10,000 mPa·s or lower, 8,000 mPa·s or lower, 5,000 mPa·s or lower, 3,000 mPa·s or lower, or 1,000 mPa·s or lower.

[0048] <Glossy Pigments>

[0049] The cosmetic disclosed herein comprises a first glossy pigment having an average particle size of 80 μm or less. The first glossy pigment can be any of colorless, white, or colored. The colorless, white, and colored first glossy pigments can be used individually or in combination.

[0050] The average particle size of the first glossy pigment, from the viewpoint of the glossiness of the cosmetic appearance, can be 80 μm or less, 70 μm or less, 60 μm or less, 50 μm or less, 40 μm or less, or 30 μm or less. There is no particular limitation on the lower limit of the average particle size of the first glossy pigment, but from the viewpoint of the glossiness of the cosmetic appearance, it can be 5 μm or more, 7 μm or more, 10 μm or more, 13 μm or more, or 15 μm or more. Here, the so-called average particle size of the glossy pigment in this disclosure is the light scattering equivalent diameter optically measured by dynamic light scattering method when the particle shape of the glossy pigment particles is assumed to be spherical. The so-called light scattering equivalent diameter, for example, according to "The Latest Illustrated Explanation of Powder Properties (Third Edition)" (published on June 30, 2004; Publisher: Yutaka Kurata; Publisher: Enigma Ltd.), is defined as the diameter of a sphere that displays a scattering pattern that most closely resembles the light scattering pattern of a particle obtained by measurement, and has the same refractive index as that particle.

[0051] There are no particular restrictions on the mixing amount of the first gloss pigment. For example, considering the glossiness of the cosmetic and its cosmetic properties during application, it can be 2.0% by mass or more, 3.0% by mass or more, 4.0% by mass or more, or 5.0% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. There are no particular restrictions on the upper limit of the mixing amount of the first gloss pigment. For example, it can be 20% by mass or less, 15% by mass or less, 10% by mass or less, or 8.0% by mass or less.

[0052] The cosmetic disclosed herein may contain a second gloss pigment with an average particle size exceeding 80 μm, provided that this does not affect the effects of the invention. However, from the viewpoint of the glossiness of the cosmetic's appearance, a mass ratio of a first gloss pigment with an average particle size of 80 μm or less to a second gloss pigment with an average particle size exceeding 80 μm is advantageous, ranging from 55:45 to 100:0. Such a mass ratio is preferably in the range of 60:40 to 100:0, more preferably in the range of 70:30 to 100:0, even more preferably in the range of 80:20 to 100:0, and particularly preferably in the range of 90:10 to 100:0. A large-sized second gloss pigment reduces the uniform glossiness of the cosmetic's appearance, and, for example, in the case of stick-shaped cosmetics, may result in an unnatural, dotted glossiness on the stick or applied lips. Therefore, the amount of the second gloss pigment mixed is preferably small, and more preferably, the second gloss pigment is not mixed at all.

[0053] There are no particular restrictions on the types of glossy pigments used. They can be appropriately selected based on factors such as the cosmetic effect and the glossiness of the cosmetic product. For example, glossy pigments known as pearlescent agents can generally be used. Glossy pigments can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0054] Examples of glossy pigments include mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, magenta-coated mica titanium, magenta / navy-coated mica titanium, iron oxide / magenta treated mica titanium, navy-treated mica titanium, iron oxide / navy-treated mica titanium, chromium oxide-coated mica titanium, black titanium oxide-coated mica titanium, acrylic resin-coated aluminum powder, silica-coated aluminum powder, titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated talc, and colorants. Titanium oxide coated mica, titanium oxide coated synthetic mica, titanium oxide coated silica, titanium oxide coated alumina, titanium oxide coated glass powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminated film powder, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, iron oxide red titanium oxide coated mica (coated with iron oxide and titanium oxide), and hollow titanium oxide powder with silica sandwiched between mica and titanium oxide coating layers, etc. They are typically white or other colors.

[0055] As a colorless, glossy pigment, known substances that are transparent, glossy pigments can be used. For example, a glossy pigment with a film made of a high-refractive-index material such as titanium dioxide can be formed on the surface of a glass particle substrate.

[0056] In this disclosure, "glossy pigment" refers to a pigment that exhibits glossiness without containing the pigments described later. Furthermore, "colored glossy pigment" refers to a glossy pigment that exhibits a color other than colorless or white. Additionally, glossy pigments typically take on a flat, plate-like form, such as flakes or scales.

[0057] <Polymer-based oil phase thickeners>

[0058] The cosmetic disclosed herein can be formulated to the aforementioned viscosity using a polymer-based oil-phase thickener. From the viewpoint of the cosmetic's appearance, such as gloss, it is advantageous to use a transparent polymer-based oil-phase thickener. For example, thickening particles used in the formulation of conventional stick cosmetics, as described above, may adhere to the flat surface of glossy pigments, causing a loss of gloss. However, compared to thickening particles, polymer-based oil-phase thickeners, especially transparent polymer-based oil-phase thickeners, are less likely to reduce gloss even if they adhere to the flat surface of glossy pigments.

[0059] Polymer-based oil-phase thickeners can be appropriately blended in a manner that produces the aforementioned viscosity, and there are no particular restrictions on their blending amount. For example, from the viewpoint of the gloss and usability of the cosmetic, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, it can be 0.5% by mass or more, 1.0% by mass or more, 3.0% by mass or more, or 5.0% by mass or more; or it can be 60% by mass or less, 50% by mass or less, 40% by mass or less, 30% by mass or less, 20% by mass or less, 17% by mass or less, 15% by mass or less, 13% by mass or less, or 10% by mass or less.

[0060] As a polymeric oil phase thickener, there are no particular limitations, and formulations comprising, for example, copolymers having at least one selected from ethylene monomer units and styrene monomer units can be used. Here, for example, with respect to copolymers having styrene monomer units (styrene segments), the styrene segments in the copolymer are attracted to each other in the oil phase, and can exhibit a three-dimensional network structure between the copolymers, thereby thickening the oil phase.

[0061] Specifically, such polymer-based oil-phase thickeners may include at least one selected from (styrene / isoprene) copolymers, (ethylene / propylene / styrene) copolymers, (styrene / butadiene) copolymers, (styrene / ethylene / butene) copolymers, (styrene / propylene / butene) copolymers, (styrene / butene) copolymers, and (ethylene / propylene) copolymers. These copolymers may be hydrogenated (hydrogenated). From the viewpoint of the gloss of the cosmetic appearance, the polymer-based oil-phase thickener preferably includes at least one selected from hydrogenated (styrene / isoprene) copolymers, (ethylene / propylene / styrene) copolymers, (styrene / ethylene / butene) copolymers, and (ethylene / propylene) copolymers.

[0062] <Thickening particles>

[0063] For example, in conventional stick-shaped oil-based cosmetics, thickening particles are typically mixed in to adjust the viscosity of the cosmetic. However, if these thickening particles adhere to the flat surface of the first gloss pigment, they become a cause of loss of gloss, making it difficult to achieve a good shine in the appearance of the cosmetic.

[0064] Therefore, the cosmetics disclosed herein may contain thickening particles in amounts of less than 4.0% by mass, less than 3.5% by mass, less than 3.0% by mass, less than 2.5% by mass, less than 2.0% by mass, less than 2.0% by mass, less than 1.5% by mass, less than 1.0% by mass, or less than 0.5% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetics. However, from the viewpoint of the glossiness of the cosmetics, it is preferable that the thickening particles are not mixed in the cosmetics.

[0065] Examples of such thickening particles include smoky silica and organically modified clay minerals. These can be hydrophobically treated.

[0066] Examples of organically modified clay minerals include water-swellable clay minerals treated with quaternary ammonium salts.

[0067] Pigment

[0068] The cosmetics disclosed herein may include pigments. In particular, when using colorless or white glossy pigments, it is preferable to include pigments from the viewpoint of cosmetic properties during application. Here, "pigment" as used in this disclosure refers to a material that enables the cosmetic to develop color without exhibiting a glossy appearance; specifically, it may refer to inorganic pigments, organic pigments, or materials generally referred to as pigments.

[0069] The mixing amount of pigments, for example, considering the gloss and cosmetic properties of the cosmetic, can be 10% or less by mass, 7.0% or less by mass, 5.0% or less by mass, 3.0% or less by mass, or 1.5% or less by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. If the cosmetic contains colored glossy pigments, the pigments may not be mixed.

[0070] When the first glossy pigment is used in combination with a colorant, from the viewpoint of the glossiness of the cosmetic, it is preferable that the mass ratio of the first glossy pigment to the colorant is 2.0 or more, 2.5 or more, 3.0 or more, 3.5 or more, or 4.0 or more. There is no particular limitation on the upper limit of this mass ratio; for example, it can be 20 or less, 15 or less, 10 or less, or 8.0 or less.

[0071] There are no particular restrictions on the types of pigments used; one can choose appropriately based on factors such as the cosmetic properties and the glossiness of the cosmetic's appearance.

[0072] Specifically, examples of inorganic pigments include, for instance, inorganic red pigments (e.g., iron oxide (iron oxide red), iron titanate, etc.); inorganic brown pigments (e.g., γ-iron oxide, etc.); inorganic yellow pigments (e.g., iron oxide yellow, loess, etc.); inorganic black pigments (e.g., iron oxide black, low-valent titanium oxide, etc.); inorganic purple pigments (e.g., manganese violet, cobalt violet, etc.); inorganic green pigments (e.g., chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, etc.); inorganic blue pigments (e.g., ultramarine, navy blue, etc.); inorganic white pigments (e.g., titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.); and metallic powders (e.g., aluminum, gold, silver, copper, etc.).

[0073] Examples of organic pigments include zirconium, barium, or aluminum lake pigments, such as Red 2, Red 3, Red 102, Red 104, Red 105, Red 106, Red 201, Red 202, Red 203, Red 204, Red 205, Red 206, Red 207, Red 208, Red 213, Red 214, Red 215, Red 218, Red 219, Red 220, Red 221, Red 223, Red 225, Red 226, Red 227, Red 228, Red 230, Red 231, and Red 232. Color 401, Red 404, Red 405, Red 501, Red 502, Red 503, Red 504, Red 505, Red 506, Orange 201, Orange 205, Orange 401, Yellow 4, Yellow 5, Yellow 201, Yellow 202, Yellow 203, Yellow 204, Yellow 205, Yellow 401, Yellow 402, Yellow 403 (1), Yellow 404, Yellow 405, Yellow 406, Yellow 407, Blue 1, Blue 404, Green 3, Green 201, Green 202, Green 204, Purple 201, etc.

[0074] Examples of natural pigments include beta-carotene, cochineal red pigment, red cabbage pigment, riboflavin, crocin, anthraquinone, canthaxanthin, and safflower pigment.

[0075] Pigments can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0076] 〈Oil content〉

[0077] The cosmetic ingredients disclosed herein may contain oil.

[0078] There are no particular restrictions on the amount of oil to be mixed. For example, relative to the total amount of cosmetics, it can be 30% or more by mass, 40% or more by mass, 50% or more by mass, or 60% or more by mass. In addition, it can be 95% or less by mass, 90% or less by mass, 85% or less by mass, 80% or less by mass, 75% or less by mass, or 70% or less by mass.

[0079] There are no particular limitations on the type of oil; it can be, for example, animal fats, vegetable oils, or synthetic oils. Furthermore, its properties can be, for example, solid, semi-solid, liquid, or volatile. Specifically, examples include hydrocarbon oils, greases, waxes, hardened oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, oily gelling agents, and polar oils. Oils can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0080] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, heavy flowing isoparaffins, α-olefin oligomers, squalane, petrolatum, polyisobutylene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polydecene, and hydrogenated polydecene.

[0081] Examples of oils include olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, and macadamia oil.

[0082] Examples of waxes include paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, lignite wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wood wax, beeswax, and whale wax.

[0083] Examples of fatty acids include stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, benzyl acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

[0084] Examples of higher alcohols include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, betaine alcohol, and octyldodecane alcohol.

[0085] Examples of organosilicon compounds include, for example, low-polymerization-degree dimethyl polysiloxane, high-polymerization-degree dimethyl polysiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, polyoxyethylene / alkylmethyl polysiloxane / methyl polysiloxane copolymer, alkoxy-modified polysiloxane, cross-linked organopolysiloxane, and fluorinated polysiloxane.

[0086] Examples of fluorinated oils include perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, and perfluoropolyether.

[0087] Examples of oily gelling agents include sucrose fatty acid esters, starch fatty acid esters, aluminum 12-hydroxystearate, and calcium stearate.

[0088] Examples of polar oils include those with an IOB of 0.10 or higher, 0.15 or higher, 0.20 or higher, 0.22 or higher, or 0.24 or higher. There is no specific upper limit to the IOB value, but it can be, for example, below 0.50, below 0.45, or below 0.40. Here, the IOB value is short for Inorganic / Organic Balance, representing the ratio of inorganic to organic content, and thus an indicator of the degree of polarity of the organic compound. Specifically, the IOB value is expressed as IOB value = inorganic value / organic value. Regarding the "inorganic value" and "organic value" respectively, for example, the "organic value" for one carbon atom in a molecule is 20, and the "inorganic value" for one hydroxyl group is 100. The "inorganic value" and "organic value" corresponding to various atoms or functional groups are set. The "inorganic value" and "organic value" of all atoms and functional groups in an organic compound are accumulated, and the IOB value of the organic compound can be calculated (for example, see Yoshio Koda, "Organic Concept Map - Basics and Applications -", ​​pp. 11-17, Sankyo Publishing, 1984).

[0089] Examples of such polar oils include neopentyl glycol didecanoate, tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, tri(octano / decanoate) glyceryl tris(ethylhexyl sebacate), diethylhexyl sebacate, octyldodecanoate, diisostearate, triisostearate, diisostearate malate, trimethylolpropane tris(2-ethylhexanoate), oxystearate hydroxystearate, pentaerythritol tetra(ethylhexanoate / benzoic acid), trioctanoate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate, castor oil, diisopropyl sebacate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, and trimethylolpropane triisostearate.

[0090] These oils can be used as a base for oil-based cosmetics. When the base itself has excellent transparency, for example, since the glossy pigments present on the inner side compared to the surface of the oil-based cosmetic can also contribute to the reflection of light from the outside, the gloss of the oil-based cosmetic's appearance can be further improved. From the viewpoint of improving the transparency of the substrate itself and further improving the gloss of the oil-based cosmetic's appearance, the oils mentioned above are preferably selected from at least one of hydrogenated polyisobutylene, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, octyl dodecyl alcohol, diisostearyl malate, and neopentyl glycol didecanoate.

[0091] On the other hand, for example, triisostearate, tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, dipentaerythritol tetraisostearate, and dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate may reduce the transparency of the base itself. Therefore, the oil content relative to the total amount of the cosmetic may be in the range of less than 2.0% by mass, less than 2.0% by mass, less than 1.5% by mass, less than 1.0% by mass, less than 1.0% by mass, less than 0.5% by mass, or less than 0.5% by mass. However, these oils are preferably not mixed in the cosmetic.

[0092] <Any component>

[0093] The oil-based cosmetic disclosed herein, to the extent that it does not affect the effects of the present invention, may appropriately incorporate various other ingredients in addition to those described above. Examples of such ingredients include, for instance, moisturizers, preservatives, defoamers, antioxidants, ultraviolet absorbers, polymers, surfactants, thickeners other than polymeric oil-phase thickeners and thickening particles (sometimes referred to as "secondary thickeners"), pharmaceuticals, alcohols, antibacterial agents, solvents, and fragrances. Any of these ingredients may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0094] Here, there are no particular limitations on what constitutes a UV absorber, and examples include, for instance, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, polysiloxane-15, tert-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazine, diethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, hydroxybenzophenone-3, methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, homosalate, and ethylhexyl salicylate, among other organic UV absorbers. UV absorbers can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Furthermore, such organic UV absorbers can be considered as oil components.

[0095] Manufacturing Methods of Oil-Based Cosmetics

[0096] There are no particular limitations on the manufacturing method of the oil-based cosmetic disclosed herein, and known manufacturing methods can be used. For example, the oil-based cosmetic in stick form can be obtained as follows.

[0097] A raw material mixture for rod-shaped oily cosmetics, comprising a first glossy pigment with an average particle size of 80 μm or less, a polymeric oil-phase thickener, and any other desired colorant, is heated and kneaded within a temperature range of 80–150°C to prepare an oily composition with a viscosity of 50 mPa·s or more at at least a portion of the temperature range of 80–150°C, for example, at 90°C. Here, this specific viscosity is typically adjusted by the polymeric oil-phase thickener and its amount. Furthermore, the polymeric oil-phase thickener can be dissolved and used after being mixed with the aforementioned oil components.

[0098] The oily composition, heated to the specified viscosity as described above, can be injected into a rod-shaped mold. After cooling to room temperature (e.g., 0–30°C), the mold is removed to obtain a rod-shaped oily cosmetic. Here, from the viewpoint of surface gloss of the rod appearance, a mold made of silicone resin, metal, or metal alloy is preferred.

[0099] The Forms and Uses of Oil-Based Cosmetics

[0100] The oil-based cosmetic disclosed herein can be in a liquid form (e.g., cream) with high viscosity, for example, having a viscosity of 10,000 mPa·s or more, or in a solid form, but the solid form can further enhance the effects of the present invention described above. There are no particular limitations on the solid form of the oil-based cosmetic; examples include, for instance, stick-shaped and / or disc-shaped cosmetics. The oil-based cosmetic disclosed herein is suitable for use as a stick-shaped cosmetic. Here, "solid form of oil-based cosmetic" may, for example, refer to an oil-based cosmetic that exhibits a solid form at 30°C.

[0101] There are no particular limitations on the uses of the oil-based cosmetic material disclosed herein, and examples include lip cosmetic materials such as lipsticks, lip glosses, and lip balms; color cosmetic materials such as foundations and eyeshadows; and hair cosmetic materials such as hair sticks and hair waxes. Among these, the cosmetic material disclosed herein is advantageous for use as a lipstick, which visually conveys a high-end feel with its surface shine.

[0102] Example

[0103] The following examples illustrate the invention in further detail, but the invention is not limited thereto. Furthermore, unless otherwise specified, the mixing amount is expressed as a percentage by mass.

[0104] Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-7

[0105] The oily cosmetics obtained by the formulations shown in Table 1 and the manufacturing methods described below were evaluated as follows, and the results are shown in Tables 1 to 3. Here, the oily cosmetics in Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 are examples of stick-shaped oily cosmetics, and the oily cosmetics in Example 7 and Comparative Example 7 are examples of disc-shaped oily cosmetics.

[0106] Evaluation Methods

[0107] (Viscosity evaluation)

[0108] The viscosity of the cosmetic material was evaluated using a type B viscometer (TVB-10, manufactured by Toki Sangyo Co., Ltd.) at 90°C, rotor number M2 or H7, and 20 rpm. Here, rotor H7 was used in Example 3, and M2 was used in the other examples and comparative examples. Furthermore, the viscosity of the cosmetic material refers to the viscosity of the oily composition described later before injection into the mold.

[0109] (Evaluation of the ripples)

[0110] The ripples of the oil-based cosmetic prepared by the method described later were visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. Here, ratings up to A to C are considered acceptable, and rating D is considered unacceptable:

[0111] A: No uneven or striped ripples were detected.

[0112] B: Uneven or striped ripples were rarely observed.

[0113] C: Uneven or striped ripples were less frequently observed.

[0114] D: Uneven or striped ripples were clearly identified.

[0115] (Evaluation of surface gloss)

[0116] The surface gloss of the oil-based cosmetic prepared by the method described later was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. Here, evaluations A through C are considered acceptable, and evaluation D is considered unacceptable:

[0117] A: It has the excellent surface gloss of a new car body.

[0118] B: The surface gloss is slightly duller compared to the A rating.

[0119] C: The surface gloss is slightly duller compared to the B rating.

[0120] D: Compared to the surface gloss rating of C, it feels dull.

[0121] (Evaluation of uneven appearance after coating)

[0122] The oil-based cosmetic prepared by the method described below was applied to the inside of the wrist, and its appearance was observed visually. It was evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0123] A: I don't feel any unevenness in appearance at all.

[0124] B: The appearance is slightly uneven.

[0125] C: I clearly felt that the appearance was uneven.

[0126] <Method for manufacturing stick-shaped oil-based cosmetics>

[0127] (Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6)

[0128] Using the prescriptions shown in Table 1, the stick-shaped oily cosmetics of Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were manufactured by the methods shown below.

[0129] All materials are mixed, heated to 100°C to melt them, and then dispersed using a homogenizing disperser to prepare an oily composition.

[0130] The oily composition, heated to 90°C until molten, is injected into a rod-shaped mold made of metal or silicone resin. After cooling to room temperature and confirming sufficient hardening, the cosmetic is removed from the mold, yielding a rod-shaped oily cosmetic.

[0131]

[0132]

[0133] <result>

[0134] The results of Examples 1-4 in Table 1 clearly demonstrate that even formulations with low amounts of thickening particles can thicken cosmetics at high temperatures. Furthermore, if the viscosity of the cosmetic is 50 mPa·s or higher, it is confirmed that ripples can be reduced or suppressed. Additionally, the results of Comparative Example 1 and... Figure 1 It can also be seen that even if the cosmetic material has ripples, it can be confirmed that it does not affect the uneven appearance after coating. That is, it can be seen that even if various literatures clearly show that the uneven appearance after coating is improved, based on this result, it cannot be said that the ripples are necessarily improved.

[0135] Furthermore, when comparing Examples 1-4 with Comparative Examples 1-4, it can be seen that if a smaller first glossy pigment with an average particle size of 80 μm or less is used, and the mass ratio of the first glossy pigment to a larger second glossy pigment, the mass ratio of the first glossy pigment to the colorant, and the content of thickening particles are within a specific range, it can be confirmed that the surface gloss of the cosmetic is also improved.

[0136] Based on the results of Comparative Example 5 in Table 2, if the amount of thickening particles in the mixture is 4.0% by mass or more, it can be confirmed that the surface gloss of the cosmetic is reduced.

[0137] According to the results of Comparative Example 6 in Table 2, it can also be seen that if a thickener is not used and the proportion of the second glossy pigment with an average particle size of more than 80 μm is increased, the surface gloss of the cosmetic will decrease and ripples will easily appear.

[0138] Based on the results of Examples 1-4 in Table 1 and Examples 5 and 6 in Table 2, it can be confirmed that various polymer-based oil-phase thickeners can reduce or suppress ripples and improve the surface gloss of cosmetics.

[0139] <Manufacturing Method of Inner Disc Type Oil-Based Cosmetics>

[0140] (Example 7 and Comparative Example 7)

[0141] Using the prescription shown in Table 3, the inner disc type oily cosmetics of Example 7 and Comparative Example 7 were manufactured respectively by the method shown below.

[0142] All materials are mixed, heated to 100°C to melt them, and then dispersed using a homogenizing disperser to prepare an oily composition.

[0143] An oily composition heated to 90°C and melted was placed into an inner disc-shaped metal container and cooled to room temperature to obtain an inner disc-shaped oily cosmetic.

[0144] Table 3

[0145]

[0146] 1) A mixture of (styrene / ethylene / propylene) copolymer, (styrene / ethylene / butene) copolymer and hydrogenated polyisobutylene

[0147] <Results>

[0148] The results of Example 7 and Comparative Example 7 clearly demonstrate that the effects of reducing or suppressing ripples and improving the surface gloss of cosmetics in this invention are not limited to rod-shaped products, and can be confirmed to be equally effective even in inner disc-shaped products.

Claims

1. An oily cosmetic comprising a first glittering pigment having an average particle diameter of 80 μm or less, and a polymer-based oil phase thickening agent, the mass ratio of the first glittering pigment to a second glittering pigment having an average particle diameter of more than 80 μm is 55:45 to 100:0, the mass ratio of the first glittering pigment to a colorant is 2.0 or more when the cosmetic contains the colorant, the content of thickening particles is less than 4.0 mass%, the polymer-based oil phase thickening agent contains at least one selected from the group consisting of (styrene / isoprene) copolymer, (ethylene / propylene / styrene) copolymer, (styrene / butadiene) copolymer, (styrene / ethylene / butene) copolymer, (styrene / propylene / butene) copolymer, and (styrene / butene) copolymer, and the viscosity at at least one temperature of 80 to 150°C is 50 mPa-s or more.

2. An oily cosmetic comprising a first glittering pigment having an average particle diameter of 70 μm or less, and a polymer-based oil phase thickening agent, the mass ratio of the first glittering pigment to a second glittering pigment having an average particle diameter of more than 80 μm is 55:45 to 100:0, the mass ratio of the first glittering pigment to a colorant is 2.0 or more when the cosmetic contains the colorant, the content of the first glittering pigment is 3.0 mass% or more, the content of thickening particles is less than 4.0 mass%, the polymer-based oil phase thickening agent contains a copolymer having at least one selected from the group consisting of ethylene monomer units and styrene monomer units, and the viscosity at at least one temperature of 80 to 150°C is 50 mPa-s or more.

3. An oily cosmetic comprising a first glittering pigment having an average particle diameter of 80 μm or less, and a polymer-based oil phase thickening agent, the mass ratio of the first glittering pigment to a second glittering pigment having an average particle diameter of more than 80 μm is 55:45 to 100:0, the mass ratio of the first glittering pigment to a colorant is 2.0 or more when the cosmetic contains the colorant, the content of the polymer-based oil phase thickening agent is 20 mass% or more, the content of thickening particles is less than 4.0 mass%, the polymer-based oil phase thickening agent contains a copolymer having at least one selected from the group consisting of ethylene monomer units and styrene monomer units, and the viscosity at at least one temperature of 80 to 150°C is 50 mPa-s or more.

4. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 3, wherein the content of the first glittering pigment is 2.0 mass% or more.

5. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising a hydrocarbon oil.

6. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising a colorant, and the first glittering pigment is a colorless or white glittering pigment.

7. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is used as a lipstick.

8. The method for producing a cosmetic material according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the steps of: A raw material mixture containing the first glittering pigment and the polymer-based oil phase thickening agent is melted at a temperature of 80 to 150°C and such that the viscosity of the mixture becomes 50 mPa-s or more, and then injected into a mold.

Citation Information

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