Anhydrous composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally containing a dimethicone segment, corresponding to the following formula (I): #imgabs0#, wherein the R radicals independently represent a methyl group or a phenyl group, with the proviso that at least one R radical represents a phenyl group; b) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally containing at least one dimethicone segment, corresponding to the following formula (II): #imgabs1#, wherein Me is a methyl group and Ph is a phenyl group, OR′ represents a group —OSiMe3, p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000; and c) at least one film-forming polymer chosen from cellulose ethers; wherein the weight ratio of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is from 0.5 to 1. The present invention also relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, such as the skin and lips, comprising applying the anhydrous composition according to the invention to the keratin materials.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to anhydrous compositions for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips. The invention also relates to a method for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips. Background Art

[0002] Compositions for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips are produced in order to satisfy the moisturizing or hydrating needs of the skin and lips.

[0003] Many lipsticks migrate after application, ie, have featherings in the fine lines of the lips.

[0004] To date, several prior art documents have been published that relate to cosmetic compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips.

[0005] WO 2013 / 191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one fatty phase in a physiologically acceptable medium, said fatty phase comprising:

[0006] - 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) a non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or a mixture thereof,

[0007] - a total content of (a) one or more non-volatile silicone oils of 43 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein at least one of said one or more non-volatile silicone oils is a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, and

[0008] - 3 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of (a) one or more waxes or mixtures thereof.

[0009] WO 2012 / 165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips, characterized by comprising: (a) 5 to 30% by mass of hydrogenated polyisobutene; (b) 30 to 70% by mass of one or more types of methylphenyl silicone, which separate when mixed with (a) at 25°C; (c) 0.5 to 15% by mass of oil, which separates when mixed with (a) at 25°C; and (d) 4 to 12% by mass of wax.

[0010] Generally speaking, when women use makeup products, especially lip products such as lipstick or lip gloss, they want the lip products to be stable and have good application properties, such as slip, and to leave a deposit with good gloss on the lips. They also want the products not to migrate easily after application.

[0011] There is therefore still a need to obtain products for caring for and / or making up keratin materials such as the skin and lips that are stable and have good gliding properties and leave a glossy deposit on keratin materials such as the skin and lips that has good resistance to migration. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0013] One object of the present invention was therefore to provide a product for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, such as the skin and lips, which is stable and has good gliding properties and leaves on keratin materials, such as the skin and lips, a glossy deposit with good resistance to migration.

[0014] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

[0015] According to one aspect, the invention thus provides an anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising:

[0016] a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally with a polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the following formula (I):

[0017]

[0018] wherein the radicals R independently of one another represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl;

[0019] b) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the following formula (II):

[0020]

[0021] wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR′ represents a group -OSiMe 3 , p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000; and

[0022] c) at least one film-forming polymer selected from cellulose ethers;

[0023] The weight ratio of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is 0.5 to 1.

[0024] According to another aspect, the invention provides a method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials such as the skin and lips, which comprises applying to the keratin materials an anhydrous composition as described above.

[0025] It has surprisingly been found that the resulting anhydrous compositions have good gliding properties and leave a shiny deposit on keratin materials such as the skin and lips that has good resistance to migration.

[0026] Furthermore, the anhydrous composition according to the invention is stable, ie it has no lapses after being kept at 20°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months. Detailed Description of the Invention

[0028] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a numerical range are included within that range, particularly within the phrases "between and" and "to."

[0029] The term "comprising" as used herein should be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0030] As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no features other than those specifically recited are present (ie, "consisting of.").

[0031] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs. When the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0032] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values expressing quantities of ingredients and the like used in the specification and claims are to be understood as modified by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters set forth herein are approximations that can vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the invention contains less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Such small amounts of water may, if appropriate, be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain residual amounts of water, but not intentionally.

[0034] As used herein, the term "keratin material" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means skin all over the body, including the scalp. The keratin material is preferably the lips.

[0035] The anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials according to the invention comprises:

[0036] a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally with a polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the following formula (I):

[0037]

[0038] wherein the radicals R independently of one another represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl;

[0039] b) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the following formula (II):

[0040]

[0041] wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR′ represents a group -OSiMe 3 , p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000; and

[0042] c) at least one film-forming polymer selected from cellulose ethers;

[0043] The weight ratio of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is 0.5 to 1.

[0044] In some embodiments, anhydrous compositions according to the present invention are solid.

[0045] The term "solid" as used herein means that the composition has a hardness greater than or equal to 30 Nm at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) when measured according to the following procedure. -1 .

[0046] The compositions whose hardness was to be determined were stored at 20° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0047] The hardness can be measured at 20° C. by the “cheese wire” method, which consists in cutting transversely a product rod, preferably cylindrical, by means of a hard tungsten wire of 250 μm diameter, by moving the wire relative to the rod at a speed of 100 mm / min.

[0048] The tensile test was carried out using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from Indelco-Chatillon. -1 The hardness of the sample of the composition of the present invention is shown.

[0049] This measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values read using the tensile testing machine described above (denoted as Y) is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance the wire has traveled. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0050] Convert hardness to Nm using the following equation -1 :

[0051] (Y×10 -3 ×9.8) / L

[0052] For measurements at different temperatures, the composition is stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before measurement.

[0053] According to this measurement method, the compositions according to the invention preferably have a strength greater than or equal to 40 Nm -1 , preferably greater than 55Nm -1 The hardness at 20°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0054] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a maximum load of less than 200 Nm -1 , especially less than 150Nm -1 and preferably less than 100 Nm -1 The hardness at 20℃.

[0055] Advantageously, the composition has a shear value comprised between 50 and 90 g F, preferably between 65 and 80 g F. Thus, the composition can be formulated in standard packaging, without requiring any support means for the composition.

[0056] One or more non-volatile phenyl silicone oils

[0057] According to one aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) and at least one second non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II).

[0058] The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0059] The term "non-volatile" means that its vapor pressure is not zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), preferably less than 10 at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. -3 mmHg (0.13Pa) of oil.

[0060] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, particularly containing a Si-Q group.

[0061] The expression "phenyl silicone oil" refers to silicone oils carrying at least one phenyl substituent.

[0062] These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, or those having no polydimethylsiloxane segment.

[0063] According to the invention, the polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponds to the following unit:

[0064] -Si(CH3)2-O-.

[0065] Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils optionally having polydimethylsiloxane segments corresponding to formula (I):

[0066]

[0067] wherein the radicals R independently of one another represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl.

[0068] Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) comprises at least three, at least four or at least five phenyl groups.

[0069] Mixtures of the different phenyl organopolysiloxane compounds described above may be used.

[0070] Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

[0071] Among the compounds of formula (I), mention may more particularly be made of the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (I) without any polydimethylsiloxane fragments, in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent phenyl groups and the remaining radicals represent methyl groups.

[0072] Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are particularly available from Dow Corning as PH-1555HRI or Dow Corning PH-1555HRI. It is sold under the name Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the name Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.

[0073] They correspond in particular to the following formulae (Ia) and (Ib):

[0074]

[0075] wherein Me represents a methyl group, and Ph represents a phenyl group.

[0076] According to some embodiments, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is chosen from trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane.

[0077] Preferably, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to formula (II):

[0079]

[0080] wherein Me is a methyl group and Ph is a phenyl group, OR' represents a group -OSiMe3, p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is a non-volatile oil.

[0081] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) has at least one polydimethylsiloxane fragment, p is between 1 and 1000, and m is more particularly such that compound (II) is a non-volatile oil. For example, use may be made of the trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone sold in particular under the name Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.

[0082] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) has no polydimethylsiloxane fragments, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, m being in particular such that compound (II) is a non-volatile oil.

[0083] For example, Dow Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane is sold under the name 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).

[0084] According to some embodiments, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is chosen from phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

[0085] Preferably, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is present in an amount ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 24% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] Cellulose ether

[0087] According to one aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from cellulose ethers.

[0088] Non-limiting examples of cellulose ethers include methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, methylethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose (cellulose gum), ethylcarboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, methylethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] In some preferred embodiments, the at least one film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, and methylethylcellulose.

[0090] As commercial examples of cellulose ethers, mention may be made of AQUALON ® available from ASHLAND Corporation.TM EC N7PHARM (ethylcellulose).

[0091] Preferably, the film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Additional oil

[0093] The anhydrous composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional oils in addition to the above-mentioned non-volatile phenyl silicone oils.

[0094] The additional oils may be fixed oils and / or volatile oils.

[0095] The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that evaporates in less than one hour upon contact with the skin or lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a volatile oil has a concentration of 0.01 to 200 mg / cm 2 Evaporation rate between / min, including limits.

[0096] The oil may be a silicone oil, a fluoro oil, a hydrocarbon-based oil or a mixture thereof.

[0097] The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0098] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups or acid groups.

[0099] The silicone oil and the fluorine oil may be selected from polar oils, non-polar oils or mixtures thereof.

[0100] The "hydrocarbon-based oil" used as the additional oil may be a polar oil.

[0101] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" refers to its solubility parameter δ at 25°C. a Not 0(J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 of oil.

[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional oil chosen from octyldodecanol, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[0103] When present, the additional oil(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] Advantageously, the total amount of all oils present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 50% to 80% by weight and preferably from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] The anhydrous composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one wax and / or at least one colorant.

[0106] One or more waxes

[0107] The waxes considered in the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds that are solid at room temperature (25°C), have a reversible solid / liquid state change, have a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, possibly up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

[0108] Waxes useful in the present invention include waxes of animal origin, waxes of vegetable origin, waxes of mineral origin, synthetic waxes, and various fractions of waxes of natural origin.

[0109] Animal wax includes but is not limited to beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives and Chinese insect wax. Vegetable wax includes but is not limited to rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, small crown coconut wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, cocoa butter, Japan wax and sumac wax (sumac wax). Mineral wax includes but is not limited to montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, ozokerite, petrolatum and ceresine. Synthetic wax includes but is not limited to polyethylene homopolymer and copolymer wax, synthetic beeswax, wax obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and silicone wax.

[0110] Also used are straight or branched C8-C 32 Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fatty chain animal or vegetable oils, as well as fatty esters and glycerides.

[0111] Waxes also include silicone waxes, among which polymethylsiloxane alkylates, alkoxylates and / or esters may be mentioned. The wax may be in the form of a stable dispersion of colloidal wax particles, according to known methods, such as "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", edited by LM Prince, Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32. Lignate waxes may also be used.

[0112] Waxes useful in compositions according to the present invention may provide one or more of the following properties including, but not limited to, bulking, texture, and a degree of water resistance.The wax should not significantly reduce the gloss properties of the gloss film former, if present.

[0113] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the wax used in the present invention is chosen from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene, VP / eicosene copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[0114] If present, the wax may be present in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] One or more colorants

[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" refers to a compound that is capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0117] The colorants considered in the present invention may be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic colorants, and materials having an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Water-soluble dyes

[0119] The water-soluble colorants used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.

[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" refers to any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and capable of imparting color. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water to a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (yielding a macroisotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution), measured at 25° C. This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.

[0121] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), and FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

[0122] As non-limiting examples of sources of the water-soluble colorant(s) that can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, chili pepper, henna, caramel and turmeric.

[0123] Thus, suitable water-soluble colorants for the present invention are, in particular, carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanidins, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, ranunculaxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, irioxanthin, riboflavin, purpurogenin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

[0125] Some of these water-soluble colorants are particularly approved for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include the dyes of the carotenoid family referred to with the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

[0126] pigment

[0127] The term "pigment" is understood to mean white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles that are insoluble in the liquid organic phase and are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced therewith.

[0128] The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (ie pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0129] The pigments may be chosen from monochrome pigments, lakes and pigments with optical effects, such as goniochromatic pigments and nacres.

[0130] Mineral pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigments such as chromium oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide and zirconium oxide, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, iron blue, synthetic fluorphlogopite (SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE), metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from dyes attached to a substrate.

[0132] Lakes, also known as organic pigments, may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof:

[0133] - cochineal;

[0134] - an organic pigment of an azo dye, an anthraquinone dye, an indigoid dye, a xanthene dye, a pyrene dye, a quinoline dye, a triphenylmethane dye or a fluoran dye.

[0135] Organic pigments that may be mentioned in particular include those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No.3, FD&C Red No.40, FD&C Yellow No.5, FD&C Yellow No.6;

[0136] Organic lakes may be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes, which may contain at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group.

[0137] Organic lakes can also be supported on organic carriers such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.

[0138] Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 11 No.19 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.19 Barium Lake, D&C Red No.19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.21 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.22 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.27 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.27 Barium Lake, D&C Red No.27 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No.27 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No.28 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.30 Lake, D&C Red No.31 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No.33 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.34 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No.36 Lake, D&C Red No.40 Aluminum Lake, D&C Blue No.1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Green No.3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No.40 No.4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Orange No.10 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.17 Barium Lake, D&C Yellow No.5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No.5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No.6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No.7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No.10 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Blue No.1 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No.4 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No.40 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No.5 Aluminum Lake, and FD&C Yellow No.6 Aluminum Lake.

[0139] Mention may also be made of fat-soluble dyes such as Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.

[0140] Chemical substances corresponding to each of the organic colorants cited above are mentioned in the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association", the content of which is incorporated herein by reference into the present patent application.

[0141] The pigment may also have been treated to be hydrophobic.

[0142] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones such as polymethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, alkoxysilane and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silane, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.

[0143] N-acylamino acids can comprise acyl groups containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. Salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0144] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the above compounds particularly refers to an alkyl group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0145] Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.

[0146] nacre

[0147] For the purposes of this patent application, the term "nacre" refers to colored particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shells, or synthetically, and which produce color effects via optical interference.

[0148] Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, chromium oxide-coated titanium mica, titanium mica coated in particular with organic dyes of the aforementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0149] They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants.

[0150] The nacre may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or hue.

[0151] As examples of nacres that can be incorporated into the first composition as interference pigments, mention may be made of the golden nacres sold, in particular, under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) by BASF; bronze nacres sold, in particular, under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by Merck and Super bronze (Cloisonne) by BASF; orange nacres sold, in particular, under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) by BASF and Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) by Merck; and orange nacres sold, in particular, under the names Nu-antique copper (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by Merck. nacres of brown tones sold in particular under the names Cloisonne 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite); nacres of copper tones sold in particular by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); nacres of red tones sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres of yellow tones sold in particular by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red tones sold in particular by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); nacres of pink tones sold in particular by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); nacres of black tones sold in particular by BASF under the name Nuantique bronze 240AB (Timica); nacres of blue tones sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); nacres of yellow tones sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona White nacre with a silvery hue sold under the name Silvet, and golden green pink-orange nacre sold, in particular, by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0152] goniochromatic pigments

[0153] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" refers to a pigment that, when the composition is applied to a support, can obtain the following color locus in the yb* plane of the CIE 1976 color space: at an incident angle of light of 45°, the change Dh° of the hue angle h° is at least 20° when the observation angle relative to the normal varies between 0° and 80°.

[0154] After the composition has been applied in fluid form to a thickness of 300 μm using an automatic applicator onto a contrast card of the Erichsen brand, reference Typ 24 / 5, the color locus can be measured, for example, using a spectrogonioreflectometer of the Instrument Systems brand, reference GON 360 Goniometer, the measurement being carried out on a black background of the card.

[0155] The goniochromatic pigments may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.

[0156] In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being made, for example, of at least one material selected from the group consisting of: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Butyl, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.

[0157] The multilayer structure may or may not have symmetry with respect to the central layer in terms of the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

[0158] Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and nature of the various layers.

[0159] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having this structure are sold under the name Sicopearl by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures are sold under the name Xirona by Merck.

[0160] Liquid crystal colorants include, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesogenic groups are grafted. Examples of useful liquid crystal goniochromatic particles include, for example, those sold by Chenix and those sold by Wacker. Those sold under the name HC.

[0161] Also useful goniochromatic pigments include certain nacres, effect pigments on synthetic substrates, particularly substrates such as alumina, silica, borosilicates, iron oxide or aluminum, or interference flakes obtained from polyethylene terephthalate films.

[0162] As non-limiting examples of goniochromatic pigments, mention may in particular be made of the following, sold alone or in admixture by Sun Chemicals: Goniometric pigments, Cosmicolor from Toyo Aluminum KK From Merck and Reflecks from BASF

[0163] Optionally, these particles may contain or be coated with one or more optical brighteners (or organic white fluorescent substances).

[0164] Fluorescent whitening agents are compounds well known to those skilled in the art. These compounds are described in "Fluorescent Whitening Agents, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", Vol. 11, pp. 227-241, 4th edition, 1994, Wiley.

[0165] Their use in cosmetics takes particular advantage of the fact that they consist of chemical compounds with fluorescent properties, which absorb in the ultraviolet region (maximum absorption at wavelengths less than 400 nm) and re-emit energy through fluorescence at wavelengths between 380 and 830 nm. They can be more particularly defined as compounds that absorb substantially in the UVA region between 300 and 390 nm and re-emit substantially between 400 and 525 nm. Their brightening effect is more particularly based on the emission of energy between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to emission in the blue part of the visible range, which contributes to visual brightening of the skin when this emission occurs on the skin.

[0166] Particularly known fluorescent brighteners include stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbene and triazinylstilbene, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0167] The fluorescent brighteners that can be used may also be in the form of copolymers, for example copolymers of acrylates and / or methacrylates, grafted with fluorescent brightener groups as described in application FR 99 10942.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is selected from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0169] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is selected from YELLOW 5LAKE, Blue 1lake, RED 22LAKE, RED 21, RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite and mixtures thereof.

[0170] If present, the colorant may be present in an amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] additive

[0172] The anhydrous composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive commonly used in the field in question. In particular, the additive is chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, thickeners, fillers (such as methyl methacrylate crosspolymer), antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] It is a routine matter for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not or not substantially adversely affected by the addition in question.

[0174] According to one preferred embodiment, the invention provides an anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0175] a) 5 to 12% by weight of trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane;

[0176] b) 10 to 24% by weight of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone;

[0177] c) 2 to 6 weight percent ethylcellulose; and

[0178] d) 8 to 15 wt% of at least one wax selected from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene, VP / eicosene copolymers, and mixtures thereof;

[0179] e) 5 to 12 weight percent of at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of YELLOW 5LAKE, BLUE 1lake, RED 22LAKE, RED 21, RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof; and

[0180] f) 60% to 75% by weight of at least one additional oil selected from octyldodecanol, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Galenic form

[0182] The composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a lipstick or the like.

[0183] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in conventional manner.

[0184] The invention also provides a method for caring for / making up keratin materials such as the skin and lips, which comprises applying to the keratin materials an anhydrous composition as described above.

[0185] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention. Percentages are by weight. Example

[0186] Example 1

[0187] Lipsticks according to the invention, formulation (IE.) 1, and comparative formulations (CE.) 1 to 3 were prepared using the ingredients listed in Table 1 (unless otherwise indicated, the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the respective lipstick):

[0188] Table 1

[0189]

[0190]

[0191] Preparation procedure:

[0192] Prepare the lipstick by following these steps:

[0193] i) grinding all colorants (lakes, dyes, titanium dioxide and iron oxide) into a pigment slurry using a three-roll mill;

[0194] ii) mixing the pigment slurry and all other ingredients except ethyl cellulose, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane at 105° C. until homogeneous, stirring the mixture at 300 rpm using a VMI homogenizer;

[0195] iii) ethyl cellulose was then introduced little by little into the mixture and stirred at 500 rpm using a VMI homogenizer until the ethyl cellulose was completely dissolved;

[0196] iv) introducing the remaining ingredients and mixing;

[0197] v) pouring the homogenized mixture into a lipstick mold preheated to 42±2°C and leaving the mixture in the mold at 25°C until solidified; and

[0198] vi) The solid mixture was demoulded from the lipstick moulds which were cooled to approximately 4°C.

[0199] Evaluate:

[0200] The lipsticks were evaluated for shear value, hardness and stability, as well as application effects such as slip and gloss of the deposit after application.

[0201] Shear values and hardness were evaluated according to previously described procedures.

[0202] Stability was assessed by five experts using the following steps:

[0203] i) placing the lipstick in an oven at 20°C, 37°C, and 45°C; and

[0204] ii) Check the appearance of the lipstick after 2 months.

[0205] Glide is used to assess whether a lipstick glides easily and smoothly during application on the lips.

[0206] Five experts evaluated glide properties by slowly applying lipstick twice to the upper lip and twice to the lower lip, using the same force. During the second application, they carefully felt the force between the lipstick and the lip skin. The weaker the friction, the higher the glide properties.

[0207] Five experts evaluated gloss and transfer resistance by applying the lipstick twice on both sides of the upper lip and twice on the lower lip with equal force. Transfer means the product feathers into the fine lines of the lips. The less transfer, the better.

[0208] Finally, the experts provide comments or scores on stability, slip, gloss and migration resistance.

[0209] 5: Excellent;

[0210] 4: Basically good;

[0211] 3: Acceptable;

[0212] 2: slightly poor and unacceptable;

[0213] 1: Poor, unacceptable.

[0214] The evaluation results for each lipstick are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0215] Table 2

[0216] nature Inv.1 Comp.1 Comp.2 Comp.3 Shear value (gF) 75 80 62 48 <![CDATA[Hardness (Nm -1 )*]]> 64 68 53 41 stability 5 5 5 3 Glossiness 4.5 5 2 4 Anti-migration 4.5 2 5 1 Sliding 5 5 2 5

[0217] It was observed that the lipstick of Inv. 1 was stable and had the desired shear values and hardness, as well as application effects such as slip and left a glossy deposit on keratin materials with good resistance to migration.

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, comprising: a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally with a polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the following formula (I): wherein the radicals R independently of one another represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl; b) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the following formula (II): wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group -OSiMe3, p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000; and c) at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose and methylethylcellulose; The weight ratio of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is 0.5 to 1.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) comprises at least three, at least four or at least five phenyl groups.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is selected from trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is present in an amount of 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) has at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, p is between 1 and 1000, and m is such that compound (II) is a non-volatile oil.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is selected from phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is present in an amount of 2% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is present in an amount of 10% to 24% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the film-forming polymer is present in an amount of 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one additional oil chosen from octyldodecanol, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one additional oil chosen from octyldodecanol, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one wax chosen from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene, VP / eicosene copolymers and mixtures thereof in an amount of 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one wax chosen from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene, VP / eicosene copolymers and mixtures thereof in an amount of 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one colorant selected from YELLOW 5LAKE, Blue 1lake, RED 22LAKE, RED 21, RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one colorant chosen from YELLOW 5LAKE, Blue 1lake, RED 22LAKE, RED 21, RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof, in an amount of 5% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 5 to 12% by weight of trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane; b) 10 to 24% by weight of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone; c) 2 to 6 weight percent ethylcellulose; and d) 8 to 15 wt% of at least one wax selected from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene, VP / eicosene copolymers, and mixtures thereof; e) 5 to 12 weight percent of at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of YELLOW 5LAKE, Blue 1lake, RED 22LAKE, RED 21, RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof; and f) 60% to 75% by weight of at least one additional oil selected from octyldodecanol, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

19. A non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising applying to keratin materials a composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 18.

20. The non-therapeutic method according to claim 19, wherein the keratin material is skin or lips.

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