Production process of single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric
By using high-strength high-definition combed cotton and spandex wire woven single-sided composite tissue fabric, combined with a variety of processes, the existing summer knitted outerwear fabric has been solved in terms of breathability, comfort and elasticity, and the effect of light and skin-friendly, good breathability and high elasticity is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202310516340.9
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-05-09
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-03
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-05-09
AI Technical Summary
The existing summer knitted outerwear fabrics have shortcomings in terms of breathability, comfort and elasticity, and the fabric structure is tight, the breathability is poor, and the core yarn is costly.
Using 60-70S high-stretch high-definition combed cotton and 40-50D spandex wire as raw materials, a single-sided composite structure is woven on a high-machine single-syringe multi-needle knitting round machine. Through the braided structure of coil, collecting ring and floating thread, a micro-mesh fabric is formed. Combined with pre-set and wet setting processes, woven, mercerized, dyed, non-solution, anti-static and soft treatments are improved to improve the performance of the fabric.
The fabric produced is thin and skin-friendly, with 360° high elasticity and high resilience and excellent breathability, meeting the needs of summer outerwear fabrics, and the cost is relatively reasonable.
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Figure CN116623351B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of knitted fabric development, and specifically relates to the production process of single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric. Background Art
[0002] With the development of technology and the improvement of material living standards, people pursue a more fashionable, free, comfortable, casual, smooth, light and thin wearing experience in summer clothing requirements. Therefore, as consumers, they have higher requirements for summer clothing fabrics. Especially for summer pants fabrics, it is not only required to ensure the breathability, fashion, leisure, smoothness, lightness, stiffness and beauty of the fabric, but also required to be comfortable to the skin and novel in style.
[0003] Today's people advocate a healthier and freer lifestyle. Therefore, as a summer outer pants fabric, in addition to being required to be stiff, beautiful, breathable, comfortable, smooth and light, it is also required to have micro-extension and micro-elasticity, so that the wearing is more comfortable and fitting without a sense of restraint.
[0004] CN201621352784.5 proposes a warp and weft bi-elastic fabric. Both the warp yarn and the weft yarn adopt spandex core-spun yarns, which have an elastic core-spun structure, enabling the fabric to have a certain degree of comfortable elasticity and good resilience in four aspects. When made into pants, it can overcome the wrapping of the fabric on the body during movement and the deformation at the knees, thus obtaining better wearing comfort and shape retention. However, the fabric structure of this patent is tight, with poor breathability, and the cost of the core-spun yarn is relatively high.
[0005] CN201621352704.6 proposes a stretch and dryness pants fabric, which is woven from warp yarns and weft yarns. Among them, the warp yarn is cotton yarn; the weft yarn includes elastic fibers and profiled cross-section polyester fibers. The profiled cross-section polyester fibers have four grooves longitudinally, and its cross-section is a flat "cross" shape with a circular arc contour, integrating the characteristics of cotton, elastic fibers and moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fibers, maintaining the feel of cotton, while being dry, breathable, elastic and comfortable. However, the elasticity of this fabric is poor and the wearing is uncomfortable.
[0006] CN201410540279.2 Moisture Absorption and Quick Drying Knitted Twill Pants Fabric and Its Manufacturing Method. The fabric yarns adopt 75D / 24f Coolmax yarns, 21S combed cotton yarns and 40D spandex filaments. The width of the fabric in the grey state is 1.7m, and the gram weight is 290g / m2. A 32-inch, 24-needle single-sided large circular knitting machine is used for knitting. The knitting needles are arranged in the order of ABABAC, the pattern width is 3, the pattern height is 4, and 6 courses are a cycle. When threading the yarns, the odd courses are threaded with Coolmax yarns, and the even courses are threaded with combed cotton yarns, and spandex filaments are fed in each course. However, this fabric is relatively thick and is not suitable as a summer pants fabric. Summary of the Invention
[0007] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a production process for a single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric. The finished product presents a micro-mesh fabric. Using high-count and high-density combed cotton and spandex filaments as raw materials, the produced fabric is light, skin-friendly, has 360° high elasticity and high resilience, and excellent breathability, meeting the requirements of summer outer pants fabrics.
[0008] The production process of the single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric described in the present invention includes the following processes:
[0009] Weaving → Setting → Singeing → Mercerizing → Dyeing → Wash-and-Wear → Antistatic → Softening;
[0010] Among them:
[0011] The weaving process is as follows: Using high-count and high-density combed cotton and spandex filaments to weave the fabric on a single-cylinder multi-track circular knitting machine; The weaving process is as follows: Using high-count and high-density combed cotton and spandex filaments to weave the fabric on a single-cylinder multi-track circular knitting machine; The count of the high-count and high-density combed cotton is 50 - 70 S , the fineness of the spandex filament is 40 - 70D; The diameter of the single-cylinder multi-track circular knitting machine is 32 - 36 in, the machine gauge is 32 - 36G, the greige fabric weight is 150 g / m 2 ~200 g / m 2 , the width is 170 cm - 200 cm, the course density is 40 coils per inch - 60 coils per inch, the wale density is 80 coils per inch - 120 coils per inch, the cloth spread width is 90 - 110 cm, and the cloth rolling tension is 3 - 10%.
[0012] The knitting method is as follows: A minimum knitting cycle consists of 6 courses. The cylinder and the dial form a cotton fleece knitting form with opposite needle positions, and the knitting needles are numbered from left to right;
[0013] The specific knitting situation is as follows:
[0014] Course 1: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th wale rows, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th wale rows;
[0015] Course 2: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th wale rows, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th wale rows;
[0016] Course 3: The same as Course 1;
[0017] Course 4: The same as Course 2;
[0018] Route 5: Cotton and spandex filaments do not participate in knitting on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th column wales, forming floats, and form loops on the knitting needles of the 2nd, 4th, and 6th column wales. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is smaller than that of the spandex filament, and the feeding tensions of the cotton yarn and the spandex filament are adjusted to 2 - 3 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex filament appears on the back of the loop;
[0019] Route 6: Cotton and spandex filaments do not participate in knitting on the 2nd, 4th, and 6th column wales, forming floats, and form loops on the knitting needles of the 1st, 3rd, and 5th column wales. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is smaller than that of the spandex filament, and the feeding tensions of the cotton yarn and the spandex filament are adjusted to 2 - 3 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex filament appears on the back of the loop.
[0020] The setting process is as follows: pre-setting + one-time wet setting. The temperature of the pre-setting drying chamber is 175 - 190 °C, the machine speed is 25 - 35 m / min, and the upper and lower air volumes are 70 / 80 CFM; the wet setting process is that the temperature of the liquid bath is 70 - 80 °C, the setting time is 1 - 2 min, the pressure of the pressing roller is 30 bar, the longitudinal tension is 20 N, the overfeed is 30 - 40%, there are 8 drying chambers, the upper / lower air volumes are both 95 / 90 CFM, and the drying chamber temperature is 190 - 210 °C; the dosage of the setting auxiliary is: penetrant: 2 - 3 g / L.
[0021] The singeing process is as follows: the flame intensity is 12 - 15 mbar, double-sided singeing with one positive and one negative is adopted, the position of the burner is straight singeing, the machine speed is 70 - 90 m / min, and the hairiness on the fabric surface of 1 - 3 mm can be effectively removed.
[0022] The mercerizing process is as follows: the alkali concentration is 21 - 36 be, the water washing temperature is 50 - 70 °C, the machine speed is 30 - 40 m / min, and the overfeed is 20 - 30%.
[0023] The dyeing process includes fabric pretreatment process, anti-pilling process, dyeing process, soaping process, and color fixation process.
[0024] The pretreatment process is as follows: adding bath anti-wrinkle agent: 2 - 3 g / L; degreasing agent: 1 - 2 g / L; chelating agent: 0.8 - 1 g / L; scouring agent: 0.8 - 1.2 g / L; 48 Baumé NaOH: 3 - 4 g / L; 27.5% hydrogen peroxide: 5 - 8 g / L, rising to 100 - 110 °C at a speed of 2 - 3 °C / min, treating for 15 - 25 min, and then dropping to 50 - 60 °C at a speed of 1 - 3 °C / min and draining; then rising to 50 - 60 °C at a speed of 2 - 3 °C / min, washing with water for 10 min, and draining.
[0025] The hair-etching process is as follows: acetic acid is added to adjust the pH to 6 - 7, 0.3 - 0.6% deoxygenase is added, the temperature is raised to 50 - 60°C at a heating rate of 2 - 3°C / min, treated for 20 - 30 min, held for 30 min, and then the liquid is drained.
[0026] The dyeing process is as follows: 4 - 6% owf of vinyl sulfone - monochloro - s - triazine double - reactive - group dye and 0.8 - 1.2 g / L of leveling agent are added. After treating for 10 - 15 min, 2 - 3.5 g / L of sodium sulfate is added, and the temperature is raised to 65 - 75°C at a rate of 1 - 2°C / min and treated for 8 - 15 min; 20 - 30 g / L of soda ash is added, treated for 30 - 40 min and then the liquid is drained; washed with water at 50 - 60°C for 10 min and the liquid is drained.
[0027] The soaping process is as follows: 1.5 - 2 g / L of soaping agent is added, the temperature is raised to 90 - 110°C at a rate of 2 - 3°C / min, soaped for 15 min, and then the temperature is lowered to 50 - 60°C at a rate of 1 - 3°C / min and the liquid is drained.
[0028] The color - fixing process is as follows: washed with water at 50 - 60°C for 10 - 15 min and the liquid is drained; after cooling to room temperature, 2 - 5% owf of formaldehyde - free color - fixing agent is added, the temperature is lowered to 50 - 60°C at a rate of 2 - 3°C / min, treated for 15 - 25 min and then the liquid is drained.
[0029] The anti - wrinkle process is as follows: padding the anti - wrinkle compound liquid in the trough, adopting the two - dip - two - roll method, the pressure of the pressure roller is 20 - 30 N, the vehicle speed is 30 - 40 m / min, the overfeed is 25 - 40%, dried at 120 - 140°C and then baked at 150 - 170°C without passing through the pressure roller, and the baking time is 0.5 - 1.2 min; the formula and dosage of the anti - wrinkle compound liquid are: low - molecular - weight polymer resin: 30 - 50 g / L, fiber protection agent: 30 - 40 g / L, formaldehyde remover SFP: 8 - 12 g / L, penetrant: 2 - 5 g / L, neutralizing acid: 2 - 5 g / L.
[0030] The anti - static finishing process is as follows: the pressure of the pressure roller is 25 - 40 bar, the vehicle speed is 30 - 40 m / min, the overfeed is 30 - 40%, the drying temperature is 120 - 140°C; anti - static finishing agent: 30 - 40 g / L, neutralizing acid: 3 - 5 g / L.
[0031] The softening treatment process is as follows: the vehicle speed is 35 - 45 m / min, the pressure is 30 - 40 bar, the drying room temperature is 145°C; the formula and dosage of the auxiliary agent are: neutralizing acid 4 - 6 g / L, non - hydrophilic silicone oil softening agent: 50 - 80 g / L.
[0032] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:
[0033] (1) The present invention selects 60 - 70 SUsing high-count and high-density combed cotton and 40-50D spandex yarn as raw materials, knitting is carried out on a high-gauge single-cylinder multi-track circular knitting machine with a gauge of 40-42G according to the developed single-sided compound stitch pattern to knit this single-sided compound stitch. Since there are loops, floats and floats in this stitch, the loops provide micro-elasticity, the floats provide micro-elongation, and the floats provide shape retention; the micro-mesh structure of this stitch makes the knitted fabric look beautiful and has excellent breathability.
[0034] (2) The fabric finally produced by the present invention is crisp, beautiful, breathable, comfortable, smooth, light and thin, and has 360° high elasticity and high recovery performance, which better meets the needs of consumers for summer knitted outer pants fabrics.
[0035] (3) The setting method of the present invention is pre-setting + one-time wet setting to ensure the dimensional stability of the fabric and no curling; the singeing method is straight singeing on both sides, one positive and one negative, plus singeing treatment to fully remove the surface hairiness of the fabric, making the fabric surface clean and the texture clear. Using vinyl sulfone-mono-chloro-s-triazine double reactive group dyes, the dye uptake rate is high, the hydrolysis rate is small, and a formaldehyde-free fixing agent is added, the fixing rate is high, and the color fastness can reach 4-5. Using a new type of low-molecular polymer resin, which carries cross-linking groups by itself and does not require the use of a cross-linking agent; the wash-and-wear performance can reach level 3.5 or above, the strength retention rate is not less than 60%, and the formaldehyde content on the fabric surface is less than 75 ppm. Brief Description of the Drawings
[0036] Figure 1 It is the knitting pattern of the single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric described in the present invention.
[0037] Figure 2 It is the knitting pattern of the fabric of the comparative example. Detailed Description of the Invention
[0038] The following further illustrates the present invention in conjunction with embodiments, but the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.
[0039] All raw materials used in the embodiments are commercially available unless otherwise specified.
[0040] The penetrant WA-M used in the examples and comparative examples is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0041] The anti-wrinkle agent in bath - JES is produced by Qingdao Ounos Co., Ltd.;
[0042] The degreasing agent LF-X is produced by Qingdao Yuzhen Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0043] The scouring agent - SA-E is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0044] The chelating agent - SQ-B is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0045] Soap Scouring Agent - WO is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0046] Formaldehyde - free Color Fixing Agent 706 is produced by Suzhou Liansheng Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0047] Low - molecular Polymer Resin NT - R519 is produced by Shanghai Shenzhi Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0048] Fiber Protectant SF - P is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0049] Formaldehyde Remover SFP is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0050] Neutralizing Acid PH - X is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0051] Deoxygenase EZB is produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0052] Antistatic Agent - PH is from Qingdao Feilongyuan Chemical Co., Ltd.;
[0053] Non - hydrophilic Silicone Softener 575 is from Hubei Furuite Technology Co., Ltd.
[0054] Example 1
[0055] The production process of the single - sided summer knitted outer - pants fabric described in the present invention includes the following processes:
[0056] Weaving → Setting → Singeing → Mercerizing → Dyeing → Wash - and - Wear → Antistatic → Softening;
[0057] Among them:
[0058] The weaving process is as follows: Using 60 S High - count high - density combed cotton and 40D spandex yarn as raw materials to knit the fabric on a single - cylinder multi - track circular knitting machine; The cylinder diameter of the circular knitting machine is 32 in, the machine gauge is 34G, the greige cloth weight is 152 g / m 2 , the width is 182 cm, the horizontal density is 51 coils per inch, the vertical density is 86 coils per inch, the width of the cloth spreader is 93 cm, and the cloth - rolling tension is 7%;
[0059] The knitting method is: Knitting the above - mentioned raw materials according to the knitting pattern of the single - sided summer knitted outer - pants fabric developed (as Figure 1 shown), which is divided into 6 paths from bottom to top, and the knitting needles are numbered from left to right. The specific knitting situation is as follows:
[0060] The 1st path: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows;
[0061] Route 2: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal columns, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal columns;
[0062] Route 3: The same as Route 1;
[0063] Route 4: The same as Route 2;
[0064] Route 5: Cotton and spandex yarn do not participate in knitting on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal columns, forming floats. They form loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal columns. The vertical angle of the cotton yarn's laying-in is less than that of the spandex yarn. Adjust the feeding tension of the cotton yarn and the spandex yarn to 2 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex yarn appears on the back of the loop;
[0065] Route 6: Cotton and spandex yarn do not participate in knitting on the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal columns, forming floats. They form loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal columns. The vertical angle of the cotton yarn's laying-in is less than that of the spandex yarn. Adjust the feeding tension of the cotton yarn and the spandex yarn to 2 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex yarn appears on the back of the loop.
[0066] The shaping process is as follows: pre-shaping + one-time wet shaping. The pre-shaping temperature is 180 °C in the drying oven, the vehicle speed is 30 m / min, and the upper and lower air volumes are 70 / 80 CFM; the wet shaping process is that the liquid bath temperature is 75 °C, the shaping time is 1.5 min, the pressure of the pressing roller is 30 bar, the longitudinal tension is 20 N, the overfeeding is 30%, there are 8 drying ovens, the upper / lower air volumes are both 95 / 90 CFM, and the drying oven temperature is 200 °C; the dosage of the shaping auxiliary is: penetrant: 2.5 g / L.
[0067] The singeing process is as follows: the flame intensity is 15 mbar, double-sided singeing with one positive and one negative is adopted, the position of the burner is straight singeing, and the vehicle speed is 70 m / min.
[0068] The mercerizing process is as follows: the alkali concentration is 24 be, the water washing temperature is 60 °C, the vehicle speed is 30 m / min, and the overfeeding is 30%.
[0069] The dyeing process includes fabric pretreatment process, anti-pilling process, dyeing process, soaping process, and color fixing process.
[0070] The pretreatment process is as follows: add anti-wrinkle agent in bath: 2.5 g / L; degreasing agent: 1.6 g / L; chelating agent: 0.9 g / L; refining agent: 1 g / L; 48 Baumé NaOH: 3.5 g / L; 27.5% hydrogen peroxide: 6 g / L. Heat up to 105 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min, treat for 20 min, then cool down to 60 °C at a speed of 2 °C / min and drain the liquid; then heat up to 55 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min, wash for 10 min, and drain the liquid.
[0071] The singeing process is as follows: acetic acid is added to adjust the pH to 6, 0.5% deoxidase is added, the temperature is raised to 50 °C at a heating rate of 2.5 °C / min, processed for 25 minutes, held for 30 minutes, and then the liquid is drained.
[0072] The dyeing process is as follows: vinyl sulfone - monochloro - s - triazine double - reactive - group dye - reactive navy blue 5% owf and leveling agent 1 g / L are added. After 12 minutes of treatment, 2 g / L of sodium sulfate is added, and the temperature is raised to 70 °C at a rate of 1.5 °C / min and processed for 10 minutes; 30 g / L of soda ash is added, processed for 40 minutes and then the liquid is drained; washed with water at 60 °C for 10 minutes and the liquid is drained.
[0073] The soaping process is as follows: 1.5 g / L of soaping agent is added, the temperature is raised to 98 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min. After soaping for 15 minutes, the temperature is lowered to 55 °C at a speed of 2 °C / min and the liquid is drained.
[0074] The color - fixing process is as follows: washed with water at 55 °C for 13 minutes and the liquid is drained; after cooling to room temperature, 3% owf of formaldehyde - free color - fixing agent is added, the temperature is lowered to 55 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min, and processed for 20 minutes and then the liquid is drained.
[0075] The anti - wrinkle treatment process is as follows: padding the compound solution in the trough, adopting the two - dip and two - roll method, the pressure of the pressure roller is 25 N, the vehicle speed is 35 m / min, the overfeed is 30%, dried at 130 °C and then baked at 160 °C, without passing through the pressure roller, and the baking time is 1 minute; the formula and dosage of the anti - wrinkle compound solution are: low - molecular - weight polymer resin: 40 g / L, fiber protection agent: 35 g / L, formaldehyde remover SFP: 10 g / L, penetrant: 3 g / L, neutralizing acid: 3 g / L.
[0076] The antistatic finishing process is as follows: the pressure of the pressure roller is 30 bar, the vehicle speed is 35 m / min, the overfeed is 35%, the drying temperature is 130 °C; antistatic finishing agent: 35 g / l, neutralizing acid: 4 g / L.
[0077] The softening treatment process is as follows: the vehicle speed is 40 m / min, the pressure is 35 bar, the drying room temperature is 145 °C; the formula and dosage of the auxiliary agent are: neutralizing acid 5 g / L, non - hydrophilic silicone oil softening agent: 60 g / L.
[0078] Example 2
[0079] The production process of the single - sided summer knitted outer - pants fabric described in the present invention includes the following processes:
[0080] Weaving → Setting → Singeing → Mercerizing → Dyeing → Anti - wrinkle → Antistatic → Softening;
[0081] Among them:
[0082] The weaving process is as follows: using 50 SUsing high-count and high-density combed cotton and 70D spandex as raw materials, the fabric is knitted on a single cylinder multi-track circular knitting machine; the cylinder diameter of the circular knitting machine is 34 in, and the machine gauge is 32G. The greige fabric weight is 192 g / m 2 , the width is 197 cm, the wale density is 42 coils per inch, and the course density is 116 coils per inch; the thread length: the width of the cloth stretcher is 104 cm, and the cloth rolling tension is 10%.
[0083] The knitting method is as follows: Knit the above raw materials according to the knitting pattern of the developed single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric (as Figure 1 shown), which is divided into 6 courses from bottom to top, and the knitting needles are numbered from left to right. The specific knitting situation is as follows:
[0084] Course 1: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows;
[0085] Course 2: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows;
[0086] Course 3: The same as Course 1;
[0087] Course 4: The same as Course 2;
[0088] Course 5: Cotton and spandex do not participate in knitting on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows, forming floats, and form loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is less than that of the spandex, and the feeding tension of the cotton yarn and the spandex is adjusted to 2.8 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex appears on the back of the loop;
[0089] Course 6: Cotton and spandex do not participate in knitting on the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows, forming floats, and form loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is less than that of the spandex, and the feeding tension of the cotton yarn and the spandex is adjusted to 2.8 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex appears on the back of the loop.
[0090] The setting process is as follows: Pre-setting + one-time wet setting. The pre-setting temperature is the drying oven temperature of 190 °C, the vehicle speed is 35 m / min, and the upper and lower air volumes are 70 / 80 CFM; the wet setting process is the liquid bath temperature of 80 °C, the setting time is 2 min, the pressure of the pressing roller is 30 bar, the longitudinal tension is 20 N, the overfeed is 40%, there are 8 drying ovens, the upper / lower air volumes are both 95 / 90 CFM, and the drying oven temperature is 210 °C; the dosage of the setting aid is: penetrant: 3 g / L.
[0091] The singeing process is as follows: The flame intensity is 13 mbar, using double-sided singeing with one positive and one negative, the position of the burner is straight singeing, and the vehicle speed is 70 m / min.
[0092] The mercerizing process is as follows: caustic concentration 26°Be, water washing temperature 70°C, vehicle speed 40 m / min, overfeed 20%.
[0093] The dyeing process includes fabric pretreatment process, singeing process, dyeing process, soaping process, and color fixing process.
[0094] The pretreatment process is as follows: add anti-wrinkle agent in bath: 3 g / L; degreasing agent: 2 g / L; chelating agent: 1 g / L; refining agent: 1.2 g / L; 48°Be NaOH: 4 g / L; 27.5% hydrogen peroxide: 8 g / L, heat up to 110°C at a rate of 2°C / min, treat for 25 min, then cool down to 60°C at a rate of 1°C / min and drain the liquid; then heat up to 60°C at a rate of 2°C / min, wash with water for 10 min, and drain the liquid.
[0095] The singeing process is as follows: add acetic acid to adjust the pH to 6.5, add 0.6% deoxygenase, heat up at a rate of 2°C / min to 60°C, treat for 30 min, keep warm for 30 min, and drain the liquid.
[0096] The dyeing process is as follows: add vinyl sulfone-mono-chloro-s-triazine double reactive group dye - reactive black 6% owf and leveling agent 1.2 g / L, after treating for 15 min, add sodium sulfate 3 g / L, heat up to 65°C at a rate of 2°C / min, treat for 10 min; add soda ash 25 g / L, treat for 40 min and then drain the liquid; wash with water at 60°C for 10 min, and drain the liquid.
[0097] The soaping process is as follows: add soaping agent 2 g / L, heat up to 110°C at a rate of 2°C / min, after soaping for 15 min, cool down to 60°C at a rate of 1°C / min, and drain the liquid.
[0098] The color fixing process is as follows: wash with water at 60°C for 15 min, and drain the liquid; after cooling down to room temperature, add formaldehyde-free color fixing agent 5% owf, cool down to 60°C at a rate of 2°C / min, treat for 25 min and then drain the liquid.
[0099] The anti-wrinkle treatment process is as follows: dip-roll and pad the compound solution in the trough, adopt the method of two dips and two rolls, pressure of the pressure roller 30 N, vehicle speed 30 m / min, overfeed 40%, dry at 140°C and then cure at 170°C, without passing through the pressure feed roller, curing time is 1.2 min; formula and dosage of the anti-wrinkle compound solution are: low molecular weight polymer resin: 50 g / L, fiber protecting agent: 40 g / L, formaldehyde remover SFP: 12 g / L, penetrant: 5 g / L, neutralizing acid: 5 g / L.
[0100] The antistatic finishing process is as follows: pressure of the pressure roller 40 bar, vehicle speed 30 m / min, overfeed 40%, drying temperature 140°C; antistatic finishing agent: 40 g / L, neutralizing acid: 5 g / L.
[0101] The softening treatment process is as follows: the vehicle speed is 35 m / min, the pressure is 40 bar, and the drying oven temperature is 145°C; the formulation and dosage of the additives are: neutralizing acid 6 g / L, non-hydrophilic silicone softener: 80 g / L.
[0102] Example 3
[0103] The production process of the single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric described in the present invention includes the following processes:
[0104] Weaving → Setting → Singeing → Mercerizing → Dyeing → Wash-and-Wear → Antistatic → Softening;
[0105] Among them:
[0106] The weaving process is as follows: Using 70 S High-count high-density combed cotton and 70D spandex yarn as raw materials to weave the fabric on a single-cylinder multi-track knitting circular machine; the cylinder diameter of the circular machine is 36 in, and the machine gauge used is 36G. The greige cloth weight is 162 / m 2 , the width is 196 cm, the horizontal density is 48 coils per inch, and the vertical density is 83 coils per inch; the width of the cloth spreader is 96 cm, and the cloth rolling tension is 3%.
[0107] The knitting method is as follows: Weaving the above raw materials according to the knitting pattern of the developed single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric (as Figure 1 shown), which is divided into 6 rows from bottom to top, and the knitting needles are numbered from left to right. The specific knitting situation is as follows:
[0108] The 1st row: The cotton yarn is knitted into loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows, and tuck stitches are knitted on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows;
[0109] The 2nd row: The cotton yarn is knitted into loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows, and tuck stitches are knitted on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows;
[0110] The 3rd row: The same as the 1st row;
[0111] The 4th row: The same as the 2nd row;
[0112] The 5th row: Cotton and spandex yarn do not participate in knitting on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows, forming floating yarns, and are knitted into loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is less than that of the spandex yarn, and the feeding tension of the cotton yarn and the spandex yarn is adjusted to 2.5 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex yarn appears on the back of the loop;
[0113] Route 6: Cotton and spandex filaments do not participate in knitting in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th longitudinal rows, forming floats, and are knitted into loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th longitudinal rows. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is smaller than that of the spandex filament, and the feeding tensions of the cotton yarn and the spandex filament are adjusted to 2.5 cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex filament appears on the back of the loop.
[0114] The setting process is as follows: pre-setting + one-time wet setting. The pre-setting temperature is 175 °C in the drying chamber, the vehicle speed is 25 m / min, and the upper and lower air volumes are 70 / 80 CFM; the wet setting process is that the liquid bath temperature is 70 °C, the setting time is 1 min, the pressure of the pressing roller is 30 bar, the longitudinal tension is 20 N, the overfeed is 35%, there are 8 drying chambers, the upper / lower air volumes are both 95 / 90 CFM, and the drying chamber temperature is 190 °C; the dosage of the setting auxiliary agent is: penetrant: 2 g / L.
[0115] The singeing process is as follows: the flame intensity is 12 mbar, double-sided singeing with one positive and one negative is adopted, the position of the burner is straight singeing, and the vehicle speed is 70 m / min.
[0116] The mercerizing process is as follows: the alkali concentration is 21 be, the water washing temperature is 50 °C, the vehicle speed is 35 m / min, and the overfeed is 25%.
[0117] The dyeing process includes fabric pretreatment process, anti-pilling process, dyeing process, soaping process, and color fixing process.
[0118] The pretreatment process is as follows: adding bath anti-wrinkle agent: 2 g / L; degreasing agent: 1 g / L; chelating agent: 0.8 g / L; refining agent: 0.8 g / L; 48 Baumé NaOH: 3 g / L; 27.5% hydrogen peroxide: 5 g / L, rising to 100 °C at a speed of 3 °C / min, treating for 15 min, then dropping to 60 °C at a speed of 3 °C / min and discharging the liquid; then rising to 50 °C at a speed of 3 °C / min, washing with water for 10 min, and discharging the liquid.
[0119] The anti-pilling process is as follows: adding acetic acid to adjust the pH to 7, adding 0.3% deoxygenase, rising to 56 °C at a heating rate of 3 °C / min, treating for 20 min, keeping warm for 30 min, and discharging the liquid.
[0120] The dyeing process is as follows: adding vinyl sulfone-mono-chloro-s-triazine double reactive group dye-reactive black 4% owf and leveling agent 0.8 g / L, after treating for 10 min, adding sodium sulfate 2 g / L, rising to 75 °C at a speed of 1 °C / min, treating for 10 min; adding soda ash 30 g / L, treating for 40 min and then discharging the liquid; washing with water at 60 °C for 10 min, and discharging the liquid.
[0121] The soaping process is as follows: Add 1.5 g / L of soaping agent, heat up to 90°C at a rate of 3°C / min, after soaping for 15 min, cool down to 60°C at a rate of 3°C / min, and drain the liquid.
[0122] The color fixation process is as follows: Wash with water at 50°C for 10 min and drain the liquid; after cooling to room temperature, add 2% owf of formaldehyde-free color fixative, cool down to 50°C at a rate of 3°C / min, and drain the liquid after treatment for 15 min.
[0123] The anti-wrinkle treatment process is as follows: Pad the compound liquor in the trough, adopt the method of two-padding and two-rolling, the pressure of the pressure roller is 20 N, the vehicle speed is 40 m / min, the overfeed is 25%, dry at 120°C and then cure at 150°C, without passing through the pressure feeding roller, and the curing time is 0.8 min; the formula and dosage of the anti-wrinkle compound liquor are: low molecular weight polymer resin: 30 g / L, fiber protectant: 30 g / L, formaldehyde remover SFP: 8 g / L, penetrant: 2 g / L, neutralizing acid: 2 g / L.
[0124] The antistatic finishing process is as follows: The pressure of the pressure roller is 25 bar, the vehicle speed is 40 m / min, the overfeed is 30%, and the drying temperature is 120°C; antistatic finishing agent: 30 g / L, neutralizing acid: 3 g / L.
[0125] The softening treatment process is as follows: The vehicle speed is 45 m / min, the pressure is 30 bar, and the drying room temperature is 145°C; the formula and dosage of the auxiliary agent are: neutralizing acid 4 g / L, non-hydrophilic silicone softener: 50 g / L.
[0126] Control example
[0127] A production process of a conventional knitted outer pants fabric includes the following processes:
[0128] Weaving → Setting → Singeing → Dyeing → Stentering;
[0129] Among them:
[0130] The weaving process is as follows: Use 50 S High-count high-density combed cotton and 70D spandex yarn as raw materials to weave the fabric on a single-cylinder multi-track circular knitting machine; the cylinder diameter of the circular knitting machine is 36 in, and the machine gauge used is 32G. The weight of the grey fabric is 165 g / m 2 , the width is 196 cm, the horizontal density is 45 coils per inch, and the vertical density is 115 coils per inch; the width of the cloth spreader is 91 cm, and the winding tension is 12%.
[0131] The knitting method is as follows: Weave the above raw materials according to the knitting pattern of the conventional single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric (as Figure 2 shown), which is divided into 6 rows from bottom to top, and the knitting needles are numbered from left to right. The specific knitting situation is as follows:
[0132] Route 1: All the cotton yarn and spandex form loops.
[0133] Route 2: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 1st and 4th column wales, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 3rd, 5th, and 6th column wales.
[0134] Route 3: The same as Route 1.
[0135] Route 4: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd and 5th column wales, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 6th column wales.
[0136] Route 5: The same as Route 1.
[0137] Route 6: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 3rd and 6th column wales, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 1st, 2nd, 4th, and 5th column wales.
[0138] The setting process is as follows: Wet setting is adopted, the pressure of the pressure roller is 30 bar, the longitudinal tension is 20 N, the overfeed is 35%, there are 8 drying chambers, the upper / lower air volume is 95 / 90 CFM, and the drying chamber temperature is 195 °C; The dosage of the setting assistant is: Penetrant: 2 g / L.
[0139] The singeing process is as follows: The flame intensity is 12 mbar, the burner position is direct firing, and the vehicle speed is 70 m / min.
[0140] The dyeing process includes: fabric pretreatment process, dyeing process, soaping process, and color fixing process.
[0141] The pretreatment process is as follows: Add anti-wrinkle agent in bath: 3 g / L; Degreasing agent: 1.2 g / L; Chelating agent: 1 g / L; Scouring agent: 1 g / L; 48 Baumé NaOH: 6 g / L; 27.5% hydrogen peroxide: 8 g / L, rise to 110 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min, treat for 20 min, then cool to 50 °C at a speed of 2 °C / min and drain; Then rise to 60 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min, wash for 10 min, and drain.
[0142] The dyeing process is as follows: Add reactive black 4% owf and leveling agent 6 g / L, after treating for 15 min, add sodium sulfate 10 g / L, rise to 90 °C at a speed of 1 °C / min, and treat for 15 min; Add soda ash 50 g / L, treat for 40 min and then drain; Wash with water at 60 °C for 10 min, and drain.
[0143] The soaping process is as follows: Add soaping agent 4 g / L, rise to 100 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min, after soaping for 15 min, cool to 60 °C at a speed of 2.5 °C / min, and drain.
[0144] The color fixation process is as follows: wash with water at 60°C for 10 minutes, drain the liquid; after cooling to room temperature, add 7% owf of color fixation agent, cool to 50°C at a rate of 2.5°C / min, and drain the liquid after treatment for 20 minutes.
[0145] The so-called stenter process is as follows: the vehicle speed is 30 m / min, the pressure of the pressure roller is 30 bar, and the drying room temperature is 145°C; the formula and dosage of the additives are: neutralizing acid 6 g / L, non-hydrophilic silicone oil softener 80 g / L.
[0146] The fabric used in the comparative example is a face coil, which is tight, has poor air permeability, has a long back float line, and is easy to snag; for Example 1, Example 2, and Example 3. The internal quality test data of the fabrics obtained in the comparative example are as follows in the table according to the test standards implemented:
[0147]
[0148]
Claims
1. A production process for a single-sided summer knitted outer pants fabric, characterized in that, it includes the following processes: Weaving → Setting → Singeing → Mercerizing → Dyeing → Wash-and-Wear → Antistatic → Softening; Among them: The weaving process is: Using high-count high-density combed cotton and spandex filaments to weave the fabric on a single-cylinder multi-track knitting circular machine; The count of the high-count high-density combed cotton is 50~70S, the fineness of the spandex filaments is 40~70D, the cylinder diameter of the single-cylinder multi-track knitting circular machine is 32~36in, and the machine gauge is 32~36G; The knitting method is: Composed of 6 courses to form a minimum knitting cycle, and the cylinder and the dial form a cotton fleece knitting form with opposite positions, The knitting needles are numbered from left to right; The specific knitting situation is as follows: Course 1: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th column rows, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th column rows; Course 2: The cotton yarn forms loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th column rows, and forms floats on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th column rows; Course 3: The same as Course 1; Course 4: The same as Course 2; Course 5: Cotton and spandex filaments do not participate in knitting in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th column rows, forming floats, and form loops on the knitting needles in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th column rows. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is less than that of the spandex filaments, and the feeding tension of the cotton yarn and the spandex filaments is adjusted to 2~3cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex filaments appear on the back of the loop; Course 6: Cotton and spandex filaments do not participate in knitting in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th column rows, forming floats, and form loops on the knitting needles in the 1st, 3rd, and 5th column rows. The laying-in angle of the cotton yarn is less than that of the spandex filaments, and the feeding tension of the cotton yarn and the spandex filaments is adjusted to 2~3cN, so that the cotton yarn appears on the front of the loop, while the spandex filaments appear on the back of the loop; The setting process is: Using pre-setting + one-time wet setting. The temperature of the pre-setting drying room is 175~190℃, the vehicle speed is 25~35m / min, and the upper and lower air volumes are 70 / 80CFM; The wet setting process is that the liquid bath temperature is 70~80℃, the setting time is 1~2min, the overfeed is 30~40%, the upper / lower air volumes are both 95 / 90CFM, and the drying room temperature is 190~210℃; The dosage of the setting auxiliary agent is: Penetrant: 2~3g / L; The dyeing process includes fabric pretreatment process, singeing process, dyeing process, soaping process, and color fixing process; The pretreatment process is: Adding bath anti-wrinkle agent: 2~3g / L; Degreasing agent: 1~2g / L; Chelating agent: 0.8~1g / L; Refining agent: 0.8~1.2g / L; 48 Baumé NaOH: 3~4g / L; 27.5% hydrogen peroxide: 5~8g / L, rising to 100~110℃ at a speed of 2~3℃ / min, treating for 15~25min, and then dropping to 50~60℃ at a speed of 1~3℃ / min and draining; Then rising to 50~60℃ at a speed of 2~3℃ / min, washing with water, and draining; The non-ironing process is as follows: impregnating and rolling the non-ironing compound liquor in a trough, adopting the method of two impregnations and two rollings, with the pressure of the pressure roller being 20 - 30 N, the vehicle speed being 30 - 40 m / min, the overfeed being 25 - 40%, drying at 120 - 140 °C and then baking at 150 - 170 °C, without passing through the pressure feed roller, and the baking time being 0.5 - 1.2 min; the formula and dosage of the non-ironing compound liquor are as follows: low molecular weight polymer resin: 30 - 50 g / L, fiber protectant: 30 - 40 g / L, formaldehyde remover SFP: 8 - 12 g / L, penetrant: 2 - 5 g / L, neutralizing acid: 2 - 5 g / L.
2. The production process of the single-sided summer knitted outer trousers fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The greige weight of the fabric is 150 g / m 2 ~200 g / m 2 , the width is 170 cm - 200 cm, the horizontal density is 40 coils per inch - 60 coils per inch, the vertical density is 80 coils per inch - 120 coils per inch, the width of the cloth spreader is 90 - 110 cm, and the roll tension is 3 - 10%.
3. The production process of the single-sided summer knitted outer trousers fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The singeing process is as follows: the flame temperature is 12 - 15 mbar, adopting double-sided singeing with one positive and one negative, the position of the burner is straight singeing, and the vehicle speed is 70 - 90 m / min.
4. The production process of the single-sided summer knitted outer trousers fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The anti-hairing process is as follows: adding acetic acid to adjust the pH to 6 - 7, adding 0.3 - 0.6% deoxidase, heating at a heating rate of 2 - 3 °C / min to 50 - 60 °C, treating for 20 - 30 min, keeping warm, and discharging the liquid.
5. The production process of the single-sided summer knitted outer trousers fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The dyeing process is as follows: adding 4 - 6% owf of vinyl sulfone - monochloro - s - triazine double reactive group dye and 0.8 - 1.2 g / L of leveling agent, treating for 10 - 15 min, then adding 2 - 3.5 g / L of sodium sulfate, heating to 65 - 75 °C at a heating rate of 1 - 2 °C / min, and treating for 8 - 15 min; adding 20 - 30 g / L of soda ash, treating for 30 - 40 min and then discharging the liquid; washing with water at 50 - 60 °C and discharging the liquid.
6. The production process of the single-sided summer knitted outer trousers fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The color fixation process is as follows: washing with water at 50 - 60 °C for 10 - 15 min and discharging the liquid; after cooling to room temperature, adding 2 - 5% owf of formaldehyde-free color fixative, cooling to 50 - 60 °C at a speed of 2 - 3 °C / min, treating for 15 - 25 min and then discharging the liquid.
Citation Information
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