Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials

Compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, containing specific compounds, address the challenge of maintaining stability in cosmetics while providing coverage, longevity, and a moisturizing feel, achieving excellent results on keratin materials.

CN116635001BActive Publication Date: 2026-03-27LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2020-12-22
Publication Date
2026-03-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetics struggle to maintain stability while providing good coverage, long-lasting wear, a watery feel, and hydration, especially under varying temperature conditions.

Method used

The composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprises a vinyl polymer grafted with carbosiloxane dendritic macromolecules, an associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and its (C1-C6) alkyl esters, a pigment coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid, a dispersant with an HLB value less than 4 at 25°C, and a skin emulsifier, forming a stable skincare and cosmetic composition.

Benefits of technology

It achieves good coverage, durability and moisturizing feel on keratin materials, while maintaining the stability of the composition within different temperature ranges.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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    Figure BDA0004294833950000041
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (i) at least one vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer; (ii) at least one associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of at least one (C1-C6)alkyl ester thereof; (iii) at least one pigment coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid; (iv) at least one dispersant having an HLB value of less than 4 at a temperature of 25°C; and (v) at least one emollient. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of said composition.
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Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials. BACKGROUND

[0002] Consumers worldwide are looking for new make-up products for improving the appearance of keratin materials, in particular the skin, and in particular for providing the skin with optical make-up effects, such as a covering effect.

[0003] Make-up products capable of bringing the above optical effects to the skin are known, for example as foundation products containing a colouring agent and an oil, in the form of an emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil emulsion. Furthermore, it is also desirable that this make-up effect is long-lasting, i.e. that the make-up product can be applied once in the morning and the make-up lasts all day without the need for touch-ups. However, these products are still not satisfactory. For example, they can dry the skin after application. This can be due to their low ability to encapsulate large amounts of water.

[0004] In addition to the covering effect and the long-lastingness as described above, consumers are increasingly demanding sensory properties of the skin. Amongst others, hydration is one of the most difficult requirements to meet today.

[0005] It is known that make-up products comprising a large amount of an aqueous phase can deliver a hydration sensation to the skin. In order to meet this need, efforts have been made to formulate foundation products, or in particular oil-in-water emulsions, oil dispersions, with a high content of an aqueous phase. However, obtaining a water-like texture is generally in contradiction with the desired make-up properties as described above.

[0006] Thus, formulating a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials with good covering power, long-lastingness, water-like and hydration sensation remains a difficulty for the person skilled in the art.

[0007] Thus, there is still a need in the make-up industry to provide consumers with make-up products delivering to the skin a good covering power, long-lastingness, water-like and hydration sensation. SUMMARY

[0008] The present inventors have now found that such a composition with the above desired properties can be formulated.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

[0010] (i) at least one vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer;

[0011] (ii) at least one associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of its (Ci-C6)alkyl esters;

[0012] (iii) at least one pigment coated with gemini type amphiphilic amino acid;

[0013] (iv) at least one dispersant having an HLB value less than 4 at a temperature of 25°C; and

[0014] (v) at least one emollient.

[0015] It is found that the combination of (i) at least one vinyl polymer grafted with carbosiloxane dendrimers, (ii) at least one associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of its (Ci-C6)alkyl esters, (iii) at least one pigment coated with gemini type amphiphilic amino acid, (iv) at least one dispersant having an HLB value less than 4 at a temperature of 25°C, and (v) at least one emollient, the composition of the application makes it possible to produce good coverage on keratin materials, and to have a long-lasting watery and moisturizing feel.

[0016] Furthermore, the composition according to the application is stable over time, whether tested at high temperature of 45°C or 55°C, or under temperature cycling from -20°C to 20°C.

[0017] Thus, according to a second aspect, the application provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to the application.

[0018] Other characteristics, elements, features and advantages of the application will become more apparent from the following detailed description of the application.

[0019] Detailed description of the invention

[0020] In the following, the limits of a numerical range are included in the range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0021] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0022] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" is to be interpreted as including all specifically mentioned features and optional, additional, unmentioned features. The use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which the features of the application are the only features included in the compositions (i.e. consisting of).

[0023] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs. If there is a conflict between the definitions of terms in this specification and those of the prior art, the definitions herein are intended to control.

[0024] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, properties and so forth used herein are to be understood as approximations based on the desired properties sought to be obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art using the present application. Thus, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical parameters are approximations and can vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by those skilled in the art using the teachings of the present application.

[0025] For the purposes of the present application, the term "keratin materials" is intended to encompass human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. According to the present application, the facial skin is most particularly contemplated.

[0026] According to a first aspect, the present application provides a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

[0027] (i) at least one vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer;

[0028] (ii) at least one associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of a (Ci-C6)alkyl ester thereof;

[0029] (iii) at least one pigment coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid;

[0030] (iv) at least one dispersant having an HLB value of less than 8 at a temperature of 25°C; and

[0031] (v) at least one emollient.

[0032] Vinyl polymers

[0033] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present application comprises at least one vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0034] The vinyl polymers suitable for use in the composition according to the present application comprise at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer structure grafted onto a vinyl backbone. As used herein, the term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" denotes a structure having branched groups of high molecular weight having a high regularity in the radial direction from the vinyl backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described, for example, in Japanese Patent Application Kokai 9-171154.

[0035] In some embodiments, the at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer structure is selected from those of general formula (I):

[0036]

[0037] wherein:

[0038] R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0039] X i represents a silylalkyl group, which is represented by formula (II) when i = 1 :

[0040]

[0041] wherein:

[0042] R 1 is selected from an aryl group and an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0043] R 2 is selected from an alkylene group comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0044] R 3 is selected from an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0045] X i+1 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, and a silylalkyl group of formula (II) above, wherein i = i + 1; and

[0046] i is an integer from 1 to 10, which indicates the generation of the silylalkyl group;

[0047] a i is an integer from 0 to 30; and

[0048] Y is a radically polymerizable organic group selected from:

[0049] the organic group comprising a (meth)acrylic group or an acrylic group of general formula (III) or (IV):

[0050]

[0051] wherein:

[0052] R 4 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example methyl; and

[0053] R 5 is selected from an alkylene group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example methylene, ethylene, propylene and butylene,

[0054] and the organic group comprising a styryl group of general formula (V):

[0055]

[0056] wherein:

[0057] R 6 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0058] R 7 is selected from an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl;

[0059] R 8 is selected from an alkylene group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example methylene, ethylene, propylene and butylene;

[0060] b is an integer from 0 to 4; and

[0061] c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0, -(R 8 ) c - represents a bond.

[0062] The carbosiloxane dendrimer can be prepared according to the method described in Japanese Patent Application Hei 9-171154.

[0063] R 1 may represent an aryl group or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. The alkyl group can preferably be methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl. The aryl group can preferably be phenyl and naphthyl. More particularly preferred are methyl and phenyl.

[0064] In formula (II), i represents the number of generations and thus corresponds to the number of repetitions of the silylalkyl group.

[0065] For example, when the number of generations is equal to 1, the carbosiloxane dendrimer can be represented by the general formula shown below, wherein Y, R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are as defined above; a 12 represents a hydrogen atom or is identical to R 1 ; a 1 is identical to a i . Preferably, the total average number of OR 3 groups in the molecule is from 0 to 7.

[0066]

[0067] When the number of generations is equal to 2, the carbosiloxane dendrimer can be represented by the general formula shown below, wherein Y, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 12 are as defined above; a 1 and a 2a represents a of the indicated generation i Preferably, the total average number of OR groups in the molecule is from 0 to 25. 3 Preferably, the total average number of OR groups in the molecule is from 0 to 25.

[0068]

[0069] When the generation number is equal to 3, the carbosiloxane dendrimer is represented by the following general formula, wherein Y, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 12 are the same as defined above; a 1 , a 2 and a 3 represent a of the indicated generation i Preferably, the total average number of OR groups in the molecule is from 0 to 25. 3 Preferably, the total average number of OR groups in the molecule is from 0 to 79.

[0070]

[0071] The vinyl polymer can be derived from the polymerization of:

[0072] (A) a vinyl monomer; and

[0073] (B) a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a free-radically polymerizable organic group represented by general formula (I):

[0074]

[0075] wherein Y, R 1 , X i are as defined above,

[0076] wherein the free-radically polymerizable organic group Y contained in component (B) is selected from:

[0077] the organic group containing a methacrylic or acrylic group represented by general formula (III) or (IV):

[0078]

[0079] wherein R 4 and R 5 are as defined above; and

[0080] the organic group containing a styryl group of general formula (V):

[0081]

[0082] wherein R 6 , R 7 , R 8 , b and c are as defined above.

[0083] The following are examples of vinyl monomers: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate or lower alkyl analogues of methacrylate esters; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate or higher analogues of methacrylate esters; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate or lower aliphatic acid analogues of vinyl esters; vinyl hexanoate, vinyl 2-ethylhexanoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate or esters of higher aliphatic acid analogues; styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone or similar vinyl aromatic monomers; methacrylamide, N-hydroxymethyl methacrylamide, N-methoxymethyl methacrylamide, isobutoxy-methoxy-methyl methacrylamide, N,N-dimethyl methacrylamide or similar vinyl type monomers containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate or similar vinyl type monomers containing hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid or similar vinyl type monomers containing carboxylic acid groups; tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, monomethacrylate polypropylene glycol, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether or similar vinyl type monomers having ether linkages; methacryloyloxypropyl trimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane containing a methacrylic group at one molecular end, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group at one molecular end or similar silicone compounds containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryloyl glycidyl ether; organic salts of amines, ammonium salts, and alkali metal salts of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid; free-radically polymerizable unsaturated monomers containing sulfonic acid groups such as styrenesulfonic acid groups; quaternary ammonium salts derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloyloxy-propyl trimethylammonium chloride; and methacrylates of alcohols containing tertiary amine groups, such as methacrylate of diethylamine.

[0084] A multifunctional monomer of the vinyl type can also be used.

[0085] Examples of these compounds are trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane trioxaethyl methacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped at both ends with divinylphenyl groups containing styryl groups, or similar silicone compounds containing unsaturated groups.

[0086] Preferred examples of the free-radically polymerizable organic group Y in the carbosiloxane dendrimer are acryloyloxy methyl, 3-acryloyloxy propyl, methacryloyloxy methyl, 3-methacryloyloxy propyl, 4-vinylphenyl, 3-vinylphenyl, 4-(2-propenyl)phenyl, 3-(2-propenyl)phenyl, 2-(4-vinylphenyl)ethyl, 2-(3-vinylphenyl)ethyl, vinyl, allyl, methallyl and 5-hexenyl.

[0087] X i represents a silylalkyl group, which, when i = 1, is represented by the following formula (II):

[0088]

[0089] wherein R 1 is as defined above.

[0090] R 2 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, hexylene or similar straight-chain alkylene groups; methylmethylene, methylethylene, 1-methylpentylene, 1,4-dimethylbutylene or similar branched alkylene groups. Preferred among these are ethylene, methylethylene, hexylene, 1-methylpentylene and 1,4-dimethylbutylene.

[0091] R 3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and isopropyl.

[0092] X i+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group or a silylalkyl group, wherein i = i + 1.

[0093] a i is an integer from 0 to 3, and i is an integer from 1 to 10, which represents the number of repetitions of the silylalkyl group.

[0094] For example, when the number of generations is equal to 1, the carbosiloxane dendrimer can be represented by the general formula shown below, wherein Y, R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 are as defined above; a 12 and a 1 represent a 1 of the indicated generation. i Preferably, the average total number of OR 3 groups in the molecule is from 0 to 7.

[0095]

[0096] When the number of generations is equal to 2, the carbosiloxane dendrimer can be represented by the general formula shown below, wherein Y, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 12 are as defined above; a 1 and a 2 represent a i of the indicated generation.

[0097] Preferably, the average total number of OR 3 groups in the molecule is from 0 to 25.

[0098]

[0099] When the number of generations is equal to 3, the carbosiloxane dendrimer is represented by the general formula shown below, wherein Y, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 12 are as defined above; a 1 , a 2 , and a 3 represent a i of the indicated generation. Preferably, the average total number of OR 3 groups in the molecule is from 0 to 79.

[0100]

[0101] The carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a radical-polymerizable organic group can be represented by the average structural formula shown below:

[0102]

[0103]

[0104] The carbosiloxane dendrimer can be prepared according to the method for preparing branched silalkylene siloxane described in Japanese Patent Application Hei 9-171154.

[0105] Vinyl polymers having at least one carbosiloxane dendritic macromolecular structure can be selected from polymers in which the units of the carbosiloxane dendritic macromolecular derivatives are represented by the carbosiloxane dendritic macromolecular structure of formula (I′):

[0106]

[0107] Where Z is a divalent organic group, "p" is 0 or 1, and R... 1 It is an aryl group or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms and X i It is a silyl alkyl group represented by formula (II):

[0108]

[0109] Where R 1 As defined above, R 2 It is an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R 3 It is an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X i+1 It is selected from hydrogen atoms, aryl groups, and alkyl groups having a maximum of 10 carbon atoms, and silylalkyl group X. i The group, where "i" is an integer from 1 to 10, indicates that in equation (I′) for X i Groups, starting from a numerical value of 1, are the algebraic number of the silyl group in each carbosiloxane dendrite, and the exponent "a". i " is an integer between 0 and 3.

[0110] In a vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendritic macromolecular structure, the polymerization ratio of component (A) to (B), by weight ratio of (A) and (B), can be from 0.1 / 99.9 to 99.9 / 0.1, and is preferably from 1 / 99 to 99 / 1.

[0111] Preferably, the number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer containing carbosiloxane dendritic macromolecules can be selected in the range of 3,000 to 2,000,000, preferably 5,000 to 800,000. It can be a liquid, gel, paste, solid, powder, or any other form. A preferred form is a solution consisting of a diluent, dispersion, or powder in a solvent.

[0112] The vinyl polymers suitable for use in this invention may also be one of the polymers described in the embodiments of application EP0963751.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the vinyl polymer grafted with carbosiloxane dendrimers can be derived from the following polymers:

[0114] (A) 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomers; and

[0115] (B) 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer acrylate or methacrylate monomers.

[0116] According to one embodiment, the vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer structure can comprise units derived from tri[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimers corresponding to one of the following formulae:

[0117]

[0118] or

[0119]

[0120] According to one preferred embodiment, the vinyl polymer having at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer structure for use in the present application comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0121] Preferably, the vinyl polymer is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy methyl methacrylate copolymer.

[0122] Exemplary commercially available vinyl polymers that can be used include, but are not limited to, acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy methyl methacrylate copolymer products sold by the Dow Chemical Company, such as FA 4002ID Silicone Acrylate and FA 4001CM Silicone Acrylate, and polymers sold by the Dow Corning Company under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-101, TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4004, FA 4003, FA 4002ID (TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220 and FA 4001CM (TIB 4-230).

[0123] The presence of the vinyl polymer was found to be advantageous for the water-like feel and spreadability of the composition of the present application.

[0124] Advantageously, the vinyl polymer is present in an amount of 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] One or more associative copolymers

[0126] According to a first aspect, the composition according to the application comprises at least one associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of its (Ci-C6)alkyl ester.

[0127] Optionally, two or more associative copolymers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of associative copolymer or a combination of different types of associative copolymers can be used.

[0128] For the purposes of the present application, the term "associative copolymer" means a copolymer capable of reversibly associating with each other or reversibly associating with other molecules in an aqueous medium.

[0129] The associative copolymer more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one hydrophobic moiety.

[0130] For the purposes of the present application, the term "hydrophobic group" means a group or a polymer having a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0131] The associative copolymers disclosed herein can be partially or totally crosslinked with at least one standard crosslinking agent.

[0132] The at least one crosslinking agent can be chosen, for example, from polyunsaturated compounds, for example polyethylenically unsaturated compounds. For example, these compounds can be chosen from polyene-based ethers of sucrose, polyene-based ethers of polyols, diallyl phthalate, divinylbenzene, allyl (meth)acrylate, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, methylene bisacrylamide trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, zinc (meth)acrylate, castor oil derivatives and polyol derivatives prepared from unsaturated carboxylic acids.

[0133] For the purposes of the present application, the associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid means that this copolymer comprises at least one acrylic acid unit or at least one methacrylic acid unit or a mixture thereof. The associative copolymer can comprise other units, for example units formed from alkyl esters of acrylic acid or of methacrylic acid, preferably of acrylic acid, comprising less than 6 carbon atoms: for example, C1-C4 alkyl acrylates, for example chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate, hereinafter referred to as "simple esters".

[0134] According to one particular embodiment, the associative copolymer according to the application comprises at least one acrylic acid unit.

[0135] According to another embodiment, the associative copolymer according to the application comprises at least one methacrylic acid unit.

[0136] According to another embodiment, the associative copolymer according to the application comprises at least acrylic acid units and methacrylic acid units.

[0137] In a particular embodiment, the associative copolymer can comprise another monomer different from (meth)acrylic acid and different from its (Ci-C6)alkyl ester.

[0138] For example, such monomer can be an ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer, such as an ester of (meth)acrylic acid or itaconic acid with a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0139] Preferably, the fatty alcohol part of the ester monomer can be linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated (Ci-C6)alkyl, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl. The polyoxyalkylene chain of the ester monomer preferably consists of ethyleneoxy units and / or propyleneoxy units, even more particularly of ethyleneoxy units. The number of oxyalkylene units is generally from 3 to 100, preferably from 7 to 50, more preferably from 12 to 30. 12 -C 30 )alkyl, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl. The polyoxyalkylene chain of the ester monomer preferably consists of ethyleneoxy units and / or propyleneoxy units, even more particularly of ethyleneoxy units. The number of oxyalkylene units is generally from 3 to 100, preferably from 7 to 50, more preferably from 12 to 30. 16 -C 26 )alkyl, in particular (Ci-C4)alkyl. The polyoxyalkylene chain of the ester monomer preferably consists of ethyleneoxy units and / or propyleneoxy units, even more particularly of ethyleneoxy units. The number of oxyalkylene units is generally from 3 to 100, preferably from 7 to 50, more preferably from 12 to 30.

[0140] According to one embodiment, the associative copolymer is preferably obtained by copolymerization between:

[0141] 1) at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomer substituted by at least one linear or branched (Ci-C 10 )alkyl; and

[0142] 2) at least one associative monomer which is an ester of formula (1):

[0143] A-O-(Alk-O) z -(CH2) w -R a (1)

[0144] wherein:

[0145] A denotes an ethylenically unsaturated acyclic residue, optionally containing an additional carboxylic group or a salt thereof, wherein said additional carboxylic group can be esterified with a linear or branched (Ci-C 20 )alkyl;

[0146] Ra denotes an alkyl, a linear or branched (Ci-C 30 )alkyl having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkylaryl or an arylalkyl, wherein alkyl is linear or branched, preferably Ra denotes a (Ci-C 20 )alkyl having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl or a phenylalkyl, wherein alkyl is linear or branched;

[0147] Alk represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, especially Alk represents -CH2-CH(R b )-, wherein R b represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl;

[0148] z is an integer comprised between 0 and 50, limits included;

[0149] w is an integer comprised between 0 and 30, limits included;

[0150] with the proviso that (1) contains at least one carboxylic group C(O)OH or C(O)O - Q + , wherein Q + represents a cation selected from an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium;

[0151] The polymerization of 1) and 2) must be understood as a copolymerization between at least one monomer 1) and at least one monomer 2).

[0152] According to one embodiment of the application, the copolymer is from the polymerization between at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomer (1a) and at least one associative monomer which is an ester of formula (1) as defined above or (2a):

[0153]

[0154] formula (1a) and (2a) wherein:

[0155] R' a and R' b are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably R' a and R' b represent a hydrogen atom;

[0156] R' c and R" c are identical or different and represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, a C(O)OX group or a -alk-C(O)OX group, wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium, and -alk- represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, such as a methylene group, preferably R' c and / or R" c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0157] R1represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group;

[0158] R2represents a linear or branched (C6-C 40 )alkyl group, preferably (C 10 -C30 ) alkyl;

[0159] n is an integer comprised between 5 and 100, in particular between 10 and 50, more particularly between 20 and 40, preferably between 20 and 30, including the endpoints, for example 25;

[0160] with the proviso that (1a) or (2a) contains at least one carboxylic group C(O)OH or C(O)O - Q + wherein Q + represents a cation chosen from alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals or ammonium;

[0161] In particular, R' a , R' b represents a hydrogen atom, R' c and R" c represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R1represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal.

[0162] According to another variant, R' a , R' b and R'crepresent a hydrogen atom, R" c represents a group -alk-C(O)OX, for example -CH2-C(O)OX, with X as defined above.

[0163] According to one particular embodiment of the application, the associative copolymer comprises units of formula (la) and / or (I’a):

[0164]

[0165] wherein

[0166] R' a , R' b , R' c and R" c are as defined above;

[0167] x represents an integer, preferably greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;

[0168] y represents an integer, preferably greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;

[0169] x + y represents an integer, preferably > 200, more preferably between 200 and 20000.

[0170] According to one preferred embodiment, the associative copolymer (i) of the application has a molecular weight greater than 100000, preferably between 200000 and 8000000.

[0171] According to one preferred embodiment, in formula (Ia) and (I’a), R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal.

[0172] As examples of copolymer (1a) / (2a) useful in the application as defined above, we can mention: acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides (25) ether (palmeth-25) acrylates copolymer, for example under the trade name W2000, product commercially available from 3V, acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides (25) ether methacrylate copolymer, for example under the trade name L-10, product commercially available from Lubrizol, or Volarest TM FL-LQ-(RB), acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides (20) ether methacrylate copolymer, for example under the trade name Aculyn TM 22 polymer, product commercially available from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical), acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides (20) ether itaconate copolymer, for example under the trade name Structure 2001, product commercially available from AkzoNobel, acrylates / cetyl polyoxylglycerides (20) ether itaconate copolymer, for example under the trade name Structure 3001, product commercially available from AkzoNobel, acrylates / cetyl polyoxylglycerides (20) ether methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides (25) ether itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides (50) ether acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, for example under the trade name Polygel W 40, product commercially available from Sigma-3V, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] Among the associative copolymers, acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides (25) ether methacrylate copolymer, in particular the product sold by the company Croda under the trade name Volarest TM The product FL-LQ-(RB) is particularly preferred.

[0174] The presence of an associative copolymer is found to be beneficial to the persistence of the composition of the application.

[0175] Advantageously, the associative copolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] Pigments

[0177] According to a first aspect, the composition of the application comprises at least one pigment coated with a gemini amphiphilic amino acid.

[0178] The size of the pigment is greater than 100 nm.

[0179] According to the application, the term "size" of a particle means its D50. The D50 or median volume particle size corresponds to the particle size defined as 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than D50.

[0180] The volume median particle size can be evaluated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size instrument, the particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

[0181] According to one embodiment, the size of the pigment is between 100 nm and 25 pm, preferably between 200 nm and 10 pm.

[0182] The term "pigment" is understood to mean a white or colored inorganic or organic particle which is insoluble in aqueous solution and which is used to color and / or opacify the resulting composition.

[0183] As inorganic pigments that can be used in the application, mention can be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, and zinc, iron or chromium oxides, iron blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises at least titanium oxide and iron oxide.

[0184] Among the organic pigments that can be used in the application, mention can be made of carbon black, D&C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal red, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPPs), which are described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0185] Preferably, the composition comprises at least an inorganic pigment coated with a gemini amphiphilic amino acid, in particular at least titanium oxide and / or iron oxide coated with a gemini amphiphilic amino acid.

[0186] According to the application, the coating of the pigments according to the application generally means a complete or partial surface treatment of the pigments by a surface agent that absorbs, adsorbs or grafts onto the pigments.

[0187] Thus, the coated pigments according to the application can be comparable to composite particles composed of several materials.

[0188] According to the application, the coated pigments have a multilayer structure composed of a substrate (pigment) and a coating (gemini amphiphilic amino acid).

[0189] Thus, the particles according to the application comprise a substrate layer corresponding to the uncoated pigments, on which at least one layer of another material is superimposed (corresponding to the coating).

[0190] The coating of the pigments can be partial or total. Within the scope of the application, the term "partial coating" means coating the pigments with at least one coating layer at a rate of 50% to 99.9% of the surface of said pigments.

[0191] According to one embodiment, the coated pigments are totally coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid. This embodiment corresponds to the case where the entire external surface of the pigments, i.e. the surface before coating, is coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid.

[0192] The coated pigments according to the application are obtained by total or partial surface treatment of the pigments with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid, called surface agent. Thus, the surface agent is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigments.

[0193] The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanical-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques known to the person skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0194] The surface agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction or generation of covalent bonds.

[0195] The coating can represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigments.

[0196] The coating can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of the surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and by generation of covalent bonds between the surface agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0197] The chemical surface treatment can comprise diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0198] When the pigments are coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid, this surface treatment involves the generation of covalent bonds and allows the dispersion of said coated particles in an oil phase.

[0199] Preferably, the gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid according to the application is chosen from the compounds of formula (V1), and the stereoisomers thereof:

[0200]

[0201] in which:

[0202] Y' represents, independently of each other, a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group, for example a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group;

[0203] j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and

[0204] l represents an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, more preferably from 10 to 12.

[0205] According to one particular embodiment of the application, in formula (VI), l represents an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1 = k2 = 2.

[0206] Preferably, in formula (VI), Y' represents -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2; and l = 10.

[0207] As examples of gemini-type amphiphilic amino acids of formula (VI), mention can be made of sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyllysine, sodium dimyristoyl glutamyllysine and sodium distearoyl glutamyllysine. Sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyllysine is particularly preferred. In particular, sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyllysine is sold by the company Asahi Kasei Chemicals under the names Pelleir L-30 and Pelleir LB-10.

[0208] According to one particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyllysine.

[0209] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the coated pigments according to the application are chosen from iron oxide and titanium oxide particles coated with sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyllysine.

[0210] As pigments coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid, mention can be made of:

[0211] Titanium dioxide coated with aluminium hydroxide, sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyllysine and magnesium chloride; and

[0212] Iron oxide coated with sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyllysine and magnesium chloride.

[0213] As commercial products of pigments coated with a gemini-type amphiphilic amino acid, mention can be made of those sold by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the name ASL-2 RED R-516P, by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the name ASL-1 TIO2 CR-50, by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the name ASL-1 YELLOW LL-100P, by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the name ASL-1 BLACK BL-100P.

[0214] Advantageously, the pigment coated with the gemini amphiphilic amino acid is present in an amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] Dispersants

[0216] According to a first aspect, the composition of the application comprises at least one dispersant having an HLB value lower than 5 at a temperature of 25°C.

[0217] The HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value is defined according to the Griffin method in J. Ploughshare. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pages 249-256. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic groups and lipophilic groups in the dispersant and also to the solubility of the dispersant. The dispersants with a lower HLB are more soluble in oil (lipophilic material) and are more suitable for water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.

[0218] For example, the following dispersants having the following HLB values have been reported:

[0219] INCI name HLB Oleic acid 1.0 Ethylene glycol distearate 1.5 Sorbitan trioleate 1.8 Ethylene glycol stearate 2.0 Sorbitan tristearate 2.1 Propylene glycol isostearate 2.5 Polyoxyethylene sorbitol hexastearate 2.6 Sucrose distearate 3.0 Glyceryl oleate 3.3 Glyceryl stearate 3.4 Sorbitan sesquioleate 3.7 Polyoxyethylene sorbitol 4.5 oleate 3.7 Glyceryl monostearate 3.8 PEG-5 castor oil 3.9

[0220] Advantageously, the dispersant has an HLB value ranging from 1.0 to 3.0 at a temperature of 25°C.

[0221] Preferably, the dispersant is chosen from non-ionic dispersants.

[0222] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersant is chosen from non-ionic dispersants having an HLB value ranging from 1.0 to 3.0 at a temperature of 25°C.

[0223] Preferably, the dispersant is chosen from oleic acid, ethylene glycol distearate, sorbitan trioleate, ethylene glycol stearate, sorbitan tristearate, propylene glycol isostearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitol hexastearate, sucrose distearate, mixtures thereof.

[0224] The combination of the pigment coated with the gemini amphiphilic amino acid and the dispersant according to the application is found to be beneficial for the coverage and the durability.

[0225] Advantageously, the dispersant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] Emollients

[0227] According to a first aspect, the composition of the application comprises at least one emollient.

[0228] Emollients can moisturize the keratinous substrate and also provide a shiny appearance. Emollients are known to those skilled in the art. See, for example, the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Volume 4 (9thEdition, 2002), more particularly, the emollients disclosed on pages 2930-2936. The disclosure of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Volume 4, pages 2930-2936 is hereby incorporated by reference.

[0229] Without limitation, emollients that can be used in the composition of the present application include polyols such as biosaccharide gum, mannose, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, glycerin; propylene glycol; butylene glycol; dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as monopropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and tripropylene glycol alkyl (Ci-C4) ethers, diethylene glycol and triethylene glycol; carnauba wax; beeswax; candelilla wax; ozokerite wax; paraffin wax; rice wax; microcrystalline wax; polyethylene wax; mineral oil; jojoba oil; apricot kernel oil; castor oil; sesame oil; hydrogenated polyisobutene; squalane; butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate; and mixtures thereof.

[0230] In a particular embodiment, the emollient is chosen from glycerin, mannose, hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum, jojoba oil, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, di-C12-13 alkyl malate, mixtures thereof.

[0231] Advantageously, the emollient is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present application is in the form of an oil-in-water, thus it comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oil phase.

[0233] Aqueous phase

[0234] The aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably 20% to 90% by weight, even more preferably 50% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present application in an amount of 1% to 80% by weight, preferably 5% to 77% by weight, more preferably 10% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] Oil phase

[0237] The dispersed oil phase comprises at least one oil.

[0238] The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

[0239] The oil can be chosen from volatile and non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluoro type. The oil can be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0240] The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, has a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapour pressure of between 0.13 Pa and 40 000 Pa (10 -3 and 300 mmHg), preferably between 1.3 Pa and 13 000 Pa (0.01 and 100 mmHg), and preferably between 1.3 Pa and 1300 Pa (0.01 and 10 mmHg).

[0241] Furthermore, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point of between 150°C and 260°C, preferably between 170°C and 250°C, measured at atmospheric pressure.

[0242] Advantageously, the oily phase comprises between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 20% by weight, and preferentially between 3% and 15% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even from, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and which does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms; it can contain ester, ether, amine and / or amide groups.

[0244] The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular containing Si-O groups.

[0245] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0246] The volatile oil can be a hydrocarbon-based oil or a silicone oil. In particular, a hydrocarbon-based volatile oil will be used, which can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point of between 40°C and 102°C, preferably between 40°C and 55°C, and preferentially between 40°C and 50°C.

[0247] As hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, mention can be made of linear or branched hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular branched C8-C 16 alkanes, for instance C8-C 16Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, undecane / tridecane mixture as described in the application WO 2008 / 155059, dodecane, tetradecane and mixtures thereof, and oils sold, for example, under the trade name Isopar or Permetyl, C8-C 16 Branch chained esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0248] The non-volatile oil(s) can be chosen from carbon-based, hydrocarbon-based oils and / or silicone oils and / or fluoro oils, of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof, provided that they are compatible with the intended use.

[0249] Mention can be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for example liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, isoeicosane, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil; lanolic acid esters, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, stearic acid esters; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or glyceryl triisostearate; carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol or linoelaidyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol.

[0250] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the application comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutene, dimethicone, di-C12-13alkyl malate.

[0251] The composition of the application can comprise an oil phase in an amount of 1% to 50% by weight, in particular 2% to 35% and more particularly 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0253] Depending on the end purpose, the composition according to the application can comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.

[0254] As cosmetic active ingredients that can be used in the composition according to the application, examples that can be mentioned include enzymes; flavonoids; mattifying agents (such as aluminium starch octenylsuccinate); peeling agents, anti-ageing agents, antioxidants, depigmenting agents; alpha-hydroxy acids; tonicity agents; and mixtures thereof.

[0255] The person skilled in the art will easily adjust the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredient(s) depending on the end use of the composition according to the application.

[0256] Additional adjuvants or additives

[0257] The composition according to the application can comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents (for example disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, film-forming agents (for example acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosspolymer), fillers (for example magnesium aluminium silicate, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate), thickeners (for example polyvinyl alcohol), pH regulators (for example citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

[0258] The person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional adjuvant or additive so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the application.

[0259] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the application provides a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0260] (i) from 0.5% to 2% by weight of acrylates / polytrimethylsilyl oxide methacrylate copolymer;

[0261] (ii) from 0.5% to 2% by weight of at least one associative copolymer chosen from acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmityl polyoxylglycerides acrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, acrylates / cetyl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, acrylates / cetyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmityl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmityl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof;

[0262] (iii) 10% to 20% by weight of at least one pigment coated with a gemini type amphiphilic amino acid chosen from sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyl lysine, sodium dimyristoyl glutamyl lysine and sodium distearoyl glutamyl lysine;

[0263] (iv) 1% to 3% by weight of at least one dispersing agent chosen from oleic acid, ethylene glycol distearate, sorbitan trioleate, ethylene glycol stearate, sorbitan tristearate, propylene glycol isostearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitol hexastearate, sucrose distearate, pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate, di-C12-13alkyl malate, mixtures thereof; and

[0264] (v) 10% to 20% by weight of at least one emollient, humectant or mixtures thereof chosen from glycerol, mannose, hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum-1, jojoba oil, squalane, mixtures thereof.

[0265] Galénical forms and uses

[0266] The composition of the application is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which can be a foundation, a gel, etc.

[0267] The viscosity of the composition according to the application can be measured at 25°C using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a M2 or M3 spindle rotating at 200 rpm.

[0268] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition of the application has a viscosity of 10 UD (Deviation Units) to 80 UD, preferably 20 UD to 50 UD, measured at 25°C using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a M3 spindle rotating at 200 rpm.

[0269] The composition of the application is stable at high temperature, for example 45°C and 55°C, for at least 2 weeks, or after temperature cycling from -20°C to 20°C for at least 2 weeks.

[0270] According to a second aspect, the application provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the application.

[0271] Upon application of the composition of the application, the consumer can feel an immediate effect, while looking natural.

[0272] The application will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Example

[0273] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0274] Table 1

[0275]

[0276]

[0277] Inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-9

[0278] The foundations according to examples (IE.) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE) 1-9 of the application were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2 and 3 below. The amounts of each component are given in weight % of the total weight of the foundation in which it is contained.

[0279] Table 2

[0280]

[0281]

[0282] Table 3

[0283]

[0284]

[0285] Preparation steps:

[0286] The above listed foundations were prepared as follows, taking the foundation of Example 1 of the application as an example:

[0287] 1). The mixture of all pigments, dimethicone, di-C12-13 alkyl malate and sorbitan trioleate was milled with a triple roll mill to obtain a pigment paste;

[0288] 2). The oil phase was prepared by adding hydrogenated polyisobutene, jojoba (Hoboba) seed oil, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, dimethicone and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethyl methacrylate copolymer, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate and the pigment paste was added to the oil phase, which was stirred at room temperature at 450 rpm until homogenized;

[0289] 3). The water phase was prepared by mixing water, sodium hyaluronate, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, magnesium aluminium silicate, acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer (and) sodium lauryl polyoxyl ether sulfate, glycerin, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosspolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, mannose, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin and caprylyl glycol and stirring at room temperature at 450 rpm until homogenized;

[0290] 4). Pour the aqueous phase into the oily phase, emulsify using a VMI homogenizer at 1500 rpm for 10 minutes at room temperature to obtain a mixture;

[0291] 5). Add dropwise 50% sodium hydroxide using a VMI homogenizer at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes at room temperature to neutralize the mixture; and

[0292] 6). Add dropwise 50% sodium hydroxide using a VMI homogenizer at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes at room temperature to neutralize the mixture.

[0293] Evaluation:

[0294] The appearance of each of the resulting foundations was observed with the naked eye.

[0295] The viscosity was measured using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a M3 spindle at 25°C, the measurement being performed at a shear rate of 200 rpm after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (stability of the viscosity and of the rotation speed of the spindle being observed after this time).

[0296] The stability was evaluated as follows:

[0297] 1) 40 mL of sample were placed in 60 mL glass bottles, three bottles being prepared for each composition to be tested;

[0298] 2) One bottle was placed in an oven at 45°C and one in an oven at 55°C, one bottle being placed in an oven in temperature cycling from -20°C to 20°C; and

[0299] 3) The appearance of the samples was observed after 2 weeks.

[0300] The samples were evaluated as stable if their appearance did not change after the high-temperature stability and the cycling stability tests, otherwise they were evaluated as unstable.

[0301] The coverage, watery feel, moisturizing feel and long-lastingness were evaluated as follows:

[0302] The four key properties of the compositions of IE 1-3 and CE 1-9, coverage, watery feel, moisturizing feel and long-lastingness, were evaluated by 14 volunteers. Each composition of IE 1-3 and CE 1-9 was applied by the volunteers themselves on the face of the volunteers and after application the volunteers evaluated whether they could perceive coverage, watery feel, moisturizing feel.

[0303] +++: 11-14 volunteers perceived this effect;

[0304] ++: 7-10 volunteers perceived this effect;

[0305] +: 3-6 volunteers perceived this effect;

[0306] -: 0-2 volunteers perceived this effect.

[0307] Volunteers evaluated the persistence based on the duration of the effect of coverage, watery feel, and moisturized feel.

[0308] +++ : persisted for at least 6 hours;

[0309] ++: persisted for 4-5 hours;

[0310] +: persisted for 2-3 hours;

[0311] -: persisted for less than 2 hours.

[0312] The results are summarized in Table 4.

[0313] Table 4

[0314]

[0315] NA ** : not tested.

[0316] As can be seen from Table 4, the compositions of Inventive Examples (IE) 1-3 are stable over time and can produce good coverage on the skin, with a persistent watery feel and moisturized feel.

Claims

1. Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (i) at least one vinyl polymer grafted with carbosiloxane dendrimers; (ii) at least one associative copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and of its (Ci-C6)alkyl ester; (iii) at least one pigment coated with a gemini type amphiphilic amino acid, wherein the gemini type amphiphilic amino acid is chosen from sodium dilaurylamidoglutamyl lysine, sodium dimyristylamidoglutamyl lysine and sodium distearylglutamyl lysine; (iv) at least one dispersant having an HLB value less than 4 at a temperature of 25°C; and (v) at least one emollient.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vinyl polymer is chosen from those of general formula (I): in which: R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; X i represents a silylalkyl group, which when i = 1 is represented by formula (II): in which: R 1 selected from aryl and alkyl comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; R 2 selected from alkylene comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; R 3 selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; X i+1 selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, alkyl groups comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, aryl groups, and silylalkyl groups of the above formula (II) wherein i = i + 1 ; and i is an integer from 1 to 10, which represents the number of silylalkyl groups; a i is an integer from 0 to 30; and Y is a free-radically polymerizable organic radical chosen from: the organic radical comprising a (meth)acrylic or acrylic radical of general formula (III) or (IV): in which: R 4 selected from hydrogen and alkyl comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and R 5 selected from alkylene comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and the organic radical comprising a styryl radical of general formula (V): in which: R 6 selected from hydrogen and alkyl comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms; R 7 selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; R 8 selected from alkylene comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; b is an integer from 0 to 4; and c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0, -(R 8 ) c - represents a bond.

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein R 4 is methyl, R 5 is selected from methylene, ethylene, propylene, and butylene, R 6 is methyl, R 7 is selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl; and R 8 is selected from methylene, ethylene, propylene, and butylene.

4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vinyl polymer is chosen from acrylates / polytrimethylsilyloxymethyl methacrylate copolymer.

5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vinyl polymer is present in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vinyl polymer is present in an amount of 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative copolymer is obtained by copolymerization between 1 ) and 2): 1 ) at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomer, which is substituted by at least one linear or branched (Ci-C 10 ) alkyl group; and 2) at least one associative monomer which is an ester of formula (1): A-O-(Alk-O) z -(CH2) w -R a (1) in which: A represents an olefinically unsaturated acyclic residue, optionally containing an additional carboxyl group or salt thereof, wherein the additional carboxyl group can be esterified with a linear or branched (Ci-C 20 )alkyl group; R a Indicates alkyl, straight-chain or branched chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms (C1-C2). 30 Alkyl, alkylaryl, or arylalkyl, wherein the alkyl group is straight-chain or branched; Alk represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene radical; z is an integer comprised between 0 and 100, limits included; w is an integer comprised between 0 and 30, limits included; with the proviso that formula (1) contains at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH or C(O)O - Q + wherein Q + represents a cation selected from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or ammonium.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein R a represents (Ci-C 20 )alkyl, alkylphenyl or phenylalkyl having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, wherein alkyl is linear or branched.

9. The composition according to claim 7, wherein Alk represents -CH2-CH(R b )-, wherein R b represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group.

10. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative copolymer is chosen from acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmityl polyoxylglycerides acrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, acrylates / cetyl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, acrylates / cetyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmityl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxylglycerides acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmityl polyoxylglycerides itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative copolymer is selected from acrylates / behenyl polyoxylglycerides methacrylate copolymer.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative copolymer is present in an amount of 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative copolymer is present in an amount of 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigment is selected from those coated with a compound of formula (VI), and stereoisomers thereof: in which: Y' represents, independently of each other, a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group; j1, k1, j2 and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = (2, 0, 2, 0), (2, 0, 0, 2), (0, 2, 2, 0) or (0, 2, 0, 2); and 1 represents an integer from 6 to 16.

15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein 1 represents an integer from 10 to 12.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigment coated with a gemini type amphiphilic amino acid is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigment coated with a gemini type amphiphilic amino acid is present in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the dispersing agent is selected from non-ionic dispersing agents having an HLB value of 1.0-3.0 at a temperature of 25°C.

19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the dispersing agent is present in an amount of 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the dispersing agent is present in an amount of 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the emollient is selected from glycerin, mannose, hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum, jojoba oil, squalane, mixtures thereof.

22. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the emollient is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the emollient is present in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.5% to 2% by weight of acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate copolymer; (ii) from 0.5% to 2% by weight of at least one associative copolymer selected from the group consisting of acrylates / behenyl polyoxyl 25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxyl 20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmethacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxyl 20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / cetyl polyoxyl 20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / cetyl polyoxyl 20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / behenyl polyoxyl 25 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmethacrylate copolymer, acrylates / stearyl polyoxyl 50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmethacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof; (iii) from 10% to 20% by weight of at least one pigment coated with a gemini type amphiphilic amino acid; (iv) from 1% to 3% by weight of at least one dispersing agent selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, ethylene glycol distearate, sorbitan trioleate, ethylene glycol stearate, sorbitan tristearate, propylene glycol isostearate, polyoxyl 60 sorbitol hexastearate, sucrose distearate, mixtures thereof; and (v) from 10% to 20% by weight of at least one emollient, humectant or mixtures thereof selected from the group consisting of glycerin, mannose, hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum-1, jojoba oil, squalane, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, di-C12-13 alkyl malate, mixtures thereof.

25. A non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 24.

Citation Information

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