A soothing retinol-irritated composition, skin care product and use thereof

Abstract

The application discloses a soothing retinol irritancy composition, a skin care product and application of the soothing retinol irritancy composition, and the soothing retinol irritancy composition comprises the following raw materials in mass fractions: phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauryl glutamate 1-5 parts, triple ceramide 0.03-0.2 parts, acetylated chitosamine 1-5 parts, panthenol 0.5-2 parts and triple gota kola 0.2-1 part; the skin care product comprises 5.56-6.56% of the soothing retinol irritancy composition and 0.1% mass fraction of retinol. The application has the characteristics of effectively soothing 0.1% retinol irritancy.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a soothing composition, in particular a soothing retinol irritating composition. BACKGROUND

[0002] Topical application of retinol can promote fibroblast growth and collagen synthesis, while reducing the level of collagen degradation matrix metalloproteinase in naturally aged skin, thereby improving wrinkles, pores, etc. However, retinol often causes strong skin irritation, and when the product soothing system is not strong enough, retinol can activate inflammatory-related cytokines, retinoic acid receptors, etc., causing skin barrier damage, skin inflammatory reactions, and redness, burning, stinging, desquamation, etc. For Asians whose skin barrier is more sensitive, it is very important for high-efficiency skincare products to have certain mildness. At present, retinol is still the golden ingredient of anti-aging and is favored by the field of skincare technology.

[0003] The present application relates to a soothing composition, in particular a soothing retinol irritating composition. SUMMARY

[0004] The present application relates to a soothing composition, in particular a soothing retinol irritating composition.

[0005] The technical scheme of the present application is a soothing retinol irritancy composition, which comprises the following raw materials in mass fraction: phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate 1-5 parts, triple ceramide 0.03-0.2 parts, acetylated chitosamine 1-5 parts, panthenol 0.5-2 parts and triple centella asiatica 0.2-1 part.

[0006] The aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition comprises the following raw materials in mass fraction: phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate 2-3 parts, triple ceramide 0.06-0.15 parts, acetylated chitosamine 2-3 parts, panthenol 1-2 parts and triple centella asiatica 0.5-1 part.

[0007] The aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition comprises the following raw materials in mass fraction: phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate 3 parts, triple ceramide 0.06 parts, acetylated chitosamine 2 parts, panthenol 1 part and triple centella asiatica 0.5 part.

[0008] The aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition comprises the following raw materials in mass fraction: phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate 2 parts, triple ceramide 0.06 parts, acetylated chitosamine 2 parts, panthenol 1 part and triple centella asiatica 0.5 part.

[0009] The aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition, wherein the triple ceramide comprises ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide NS / ceramide NG, and the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide NS / ceramide NG is (2-3):1:(0.9-1.5).

[0010] The aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition, wherein the mass ratio of the ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide NS / ceramide NG is 2.5:1:1.1.

[0011] The aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition, wherein the triple centella asiatica comprises hydroxyl asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract and asiaticoside, and the mass ratio of the hydroxyl asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract and asiaticoside is (28-32):(1.5-2):1.

[0012] The aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition, wherein the mass ratio of the hydroxyl asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract and asiaticoside is 30.7:1.7:1.

[0013] A skin care product comprising the aforementioned soothing retinol irritancy composition and retinol, wherein the mass fraction of the composition in the skin care product is 5.56-6.56%, and the mass fraction of the retinol in the skin care product is 0.1%.

[0014] Also included is the use of the above-mentioned soothing retinol-irritating composition in the manufacture of a skin care product; especially in the manufacture of a skin care product containing 0.1% by mass of retinol.

[0015] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following advantages:

[0016] The plant sterol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate of the present application is a cell interstitial lipid similar to ceramide in structure, has high permeability, can well penetrate into the skin, supplement the cell interstitial lipid, maintain the skin surface moisture, and promote skin metabolism; and has the antioxidant property, can effectively scavenge free radicals.

[0017] The triple ceramide is a mixture of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide NS / ceramide NG, can promote the formation of keratinocytes into a normal array structure, promote the expression level of filaggrin mRNA and protein, and rebuild the lipid barrier, which is beneficial to improve the skin tolerance, improve the skin barrier function and the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum, and reduce skin irritation and water loss. The head groups of adjacent ceramide molecules form transverse hydrogen bonds to reduce the skin permeability to water, and the Van der Waals force between the ceramides also plays a synergistic role, maintains the skin structure and skin barrier, and reduces skin inflammation and repairs damaged skin.

[0018] The main active ingredients of the triple centella asiatica are hydroxyl asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract and asiaticoside, the sequence numbers in the cosmetic raw material directory are 05262, 03171 and 03173 respectively, which have good antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activity, reduce the production of pro-inflammatory mediators interleukin-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-1, and improve and repair the skin's own barrier function, thereby preventing and correcting the disorder of skin immune function.

[0019] Acetylchitose is a basic component unit of many important polysaccharides (such as glycosaminoglycan and hyaluronic acid) in biological cells, is a multifunctional moisturizing agent and keratin metabolism agent, and can accelerate skin metabolism and has moisturizing effect.

[0020] Panthenol is used as dexpanthenol, which can be converted into vitamin B5, induce persistent skin moisturizing, and improve the hydration capacity of the skin. It can reduce inflammatory factor PGE2, stimulate the expression of wound healing genes in human keratinocytes, maintain and soothe the skin barrier, and reduce the redness and other sensitive skin symptoms of the skin. Panthenol can interact with the structure lipids and protein residues of the stratum corneum when the skin barrier is damaged, and increase the fluidity of the molecules.

[0021] The present application aims at the erythema irritation of 0.1% higher concentration of retinol, and the complex phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauryl glutamate 1-5 parts, triple ceramide 0.03-0.2 parts, chitosan 1-5 parts, panthenol 0.5-2 parts and triple centella asiatica 0.2-1 part, through human repetitive patch test, the data is observed and collected at multiple time points in the induction period of 2 weeks after application, the irritation reaction and soothing effect of the tested product are evaluated, the actual use process on the human body is simulated and magnified, which is more real and intuitive, and the obvious soothing irritation effect of 0.1% higher concentration of retinol is effectively proved.

[0022] Therefore, the composition of the present application can improve the water retention capacity of the skin in the stratum corneum cells, inhibit some inflammatory factors, improve the skin immune function, effectively soothe the skin erythema irritation caused by 0.1% retinol in skin care products, reduce the transdermal water loss, repair the skin barrier, and have a synergistic effect, so that the retinol has high efficacy while the irritation is greatly reduced in the technical application of skin care products, and the applicability to the skin barrier sensitive population is improved. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0023] Figure 1 is the cumulative irritation index comparison chart of different embodiments and positive examples of the present application;

[0024] Figure 2 is the volunteer arm erythema reaction chart of a single component;

[0025] Figure 3 is the volunteer arm erythema reaction chart of different embodiments. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0026] The present application will be further described below in combination with examples, but it is not used as the basis for limiting the present application.

[0027] Example 1:

[0028] A soothing retinol irritation composition, wherein the mass content of phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauryl glutamate is 2%, the mass content of triple ceramide is 0.06%, the mass content of chitosan is 2%, the mass content of panthenol is 1%, and the mass content of triple centella asiatica is 0.5%, based on the total mass of the skin care product.

[0029] Example 2:

[0030] A soothing retinol irritation composition, wherein the mass content of phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauryl glutamate is 3%, the mass content of triple ceramide is 0.06%, the mass content of chitosan is 2%, the mass content of panthenol is 1%, and the mass content of triple centella asiatica is 0.5%, based on the total mass of the skin care product.

[0031] Example 3:

[0032] A soothing composition for retinol irritation, wherein the mass content of phytosteryl / octyldodecyl / lauroyl glutamate is 2%, the mass content of triple ceramide is 0.15%, the mass content of acetylchitosamine is 2%, the mass content of panthenol is 1%, and the mass content of triple centella is 0.5%, based on the total mass of the skin care product.

[0033] Example 4:

[0034] A soothing composition for retinol irritation, wherein the mass content of phytosteryl / octyldodecyl / lauroyl glutamate is 2%, the mass content of triple ceramide is 0.06%, the mass content of acetylchitosamine is 3%, the mass content of panthenol is 1%, and the mass content of triple centella is 0.5%, based on the total mass of the skin care product.

[0035] Example 5:

[0036] A soothing composition for retinol irritation, wherein the mass content of phytosteryl / octyldodecyl / lauroyl glutamate is 2%, the mass content of triple ceramide is 0.06%, the mass content of acetylchitosamine is 2%, the mass content of panthenol is 2%, and the mass content of triple centella is 0.5%, based on the total mass of the skin care product.

[0037] Example 6:

[0038] A soothing composition for retinol irritation, wherein the mass content of phytosteryl / octyldodecyl / lauroyl glutamate is 2%, the mass content of triple ceramide is 0.06%, the mass content of acetylchitosamine is 2%, the mass content of panthenol is 1%, and the mass content of triple centella is 1%, based on the total mass of the skin care product.

[0039] The test was carried out according to the model of repeated closed patch irritation established by human skin patch test in the Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification 2015 Edition. 42 healthy volunteers aged 18-60 were selected and divided into groups A and B, 21 in each group. The test collected parameters included image collection, erythema observation and instrument measurement (skin color redness a* value, skin hemoglobin content EI value and skin trans-epidermal water loss rate TEWL value).

[0040] The sample in group A was: a 0.1% retinol-containing skin care product sample added with a single soothing component;

[0041] The sample in group B was: a 0.1% retinol-containing skin care product sample added with a soothing composition of different examples;

[0042] The positive comparative example was: a 0.1% retinol-containing skin care product sample without adding any soothing component;

[0043] The A group sample, the B group sample and the positive comparative example are consistent in the rest of the ingredients except the soothing components.

[0044] The present application improves the skin's immune function by combining the five active ingredients, which on one hand improves the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum cells in the skin, and on the other hand inhibits some inflammatory factors from different pathways. The five active ingredients reduce the skin erythema irritation caused by 0.1% mass ratio retinol in skin care products through the synergistic effect of moisturizing, soothing and repairing.

[0045] Repeat patch test method:

[0046] The first 48-hour closed patch was performed on the flexor of the forearm of the volunteer. The parameter collection was performed at 0.5 hours (1 st 0.5h) and 24 hours (1 st 24h) after the first patch was removed. Then the second 72-hour repeated closed patch was performed on the test area. The parameter collection was performed at 0.5 hours (2 nd 0.5h), 24 hours (2 nd 24h), 48 hours (2 nd 48h) and 96 hours (2 nd 96h) after the second patch was removed.

[0047] The A group sample, the B group sample, the positive comparative example and the commercially available sample containing 0.1% retinol were respectively applied on the patches at different positions of the volunteer's arm.

[0048] The visual evaluation score standard for erythema reaction observation was 0 points for negative reaction, 1 point for suspicious reaction (weak erythema reaction), 2 points for weak positive reaction (erythema reaction), 3 points for strong positive reaction (vesicle reaction) and 4 points for extremely strong positive reaction (fusion vesicle reaction). The cumulative irritation index was calculated and compared (cumulative irritation index = the sum of irritation scores of all subjects of the sample / observation times). The smaller the cumulative irritation index, the smaller the irritation. The instrument measurement data was statistically analyzed by paired t-test.

[0049] The cumulative irritation index results of different samples are shown in Table 1 and Figure 1 :

[0050] Table 1 Cumulative irritation index table of different samples

[0051]

[0052]

[0053] As can be seen from Table 1, among all the single component test samples, phytosteryl / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate and triple ceramide exhibit lower cumulative irritation index (<10) compared with the positive control. The cumulative irritation index of the examples is much lower than that of the single component, only 2.8-4.5. The cumulative irritation index of Example 2 is the lowest, only 2.8.

[0054] The soothing composition content of Example 1 is 5.56% (based on the total amount of the skin care product), the soothing composition content of Example 3 is 5.65%, and the soothing composition content of Examples 2, 4 and 5 is 6.56%, and the soothing composition content of Example 6 is 6.06%. Although the soothing composition content of Example 2 and Example 3 differs by about 1%, the cumulative irritation index of erythema is similar, so Example 3 is the best embodiment.

[0055] From the erythema irritation index, the total concentration of the compositions of Example 1 and Example 3 is basically the same, and the total concentration of the compositions of Examples 2, 4 and 5 is the same, but under the same concentration, the erythema irritation index is different; under the condition of lower total concentration of the composition, the erythema irritation index is not significantly increased, indicating that the composition is not simply additive, and the best soothing effect is achieved by the best matching concentration of Example 3.

[0056] The erythema pictures after the repeated patch test are shown in Figure 2 and Figure 3 The observation results of erythema after the repeated patch test show that, except for phytosteryl / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, triple ceramide, chitosanamide, panthenol and asiaticoside extract, which all have grade 1 reaction, other components have several cases of grade 2 reaction which is more serious than grade 1 after the repeated patch test.

[0057] The change value of skin hemoglobin content EI is shown in Table 2.

[0058] Table 2 Change value of skin hemoglobin content EI of different samples

[0059]

[0060]

[0061] Note: 1. The change value is the difference between the test value at each time point and the value before treatment of each sample; 2. The smaller the positive change value of EI value, the lighter the color of erythema; 3. *, p < 0.05, indicating that it is significantly better than the positive control at this time point.

[0062] The skin color a* value is shown in Table 3.

[0063] Table 3 Skin color a* value of different samples

[0064]

[0065]

[0066] Note: 1. The change value is the difference between the test value at each time point and the value before treatment of each sample; 2. The smaller the positive change value of a* value, the lighter the red spot color; 3. *, p < 0.05, means significantly better than the positive control at this time point compared with the positive control.

[0067] As can be seen from Table 2 and Table 3, the red spot characterization parameters of the instrument: skin hemoglobin content EI value and skin color redness a* value have the same trend as the visual evaluation of red spot observation, and phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, triple ceramide, chitosan acetate, panthenol, asiaticoside extract show excellent mildness. The red spot characterization parameters of skin color redness a* value and skin hemoglobin content EI value of all composition examples are significantly better than the positive control.

[0068] The skin transepidermal water loss rate TEWL value is shown in Table 4.

[0069] Table 4 Skin transepidermal water loss rate TEWL value of different samples

[0070]

[0071]

[0072]

[0073] Note: 1. The change value is the difference between the test value at each time point and the value before treatment of each sample; 2. The smaller the positive change value of TEWL value, the smaller the transepidermal water loss rate, the better the skin barrier; 3. *, p < 0.05, means significantly better than the positive control at this time point compared with the positive control.

[0074] As can be seen from Table 4, the skin barrier characterization parameter skin transepidermal water loss rate TEWL value shows the low irritation of phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, triple ceramide, chitosan acetate, panthenol, triple asiaticoside. The skin barrier damage of composition examples is significantly smaller than the positive control.

[0075] The test results show that after two groups of human repeated patch tests, it is verified that the composition of phytosterol / octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, triple ceramide, chitosan acetate, panthenol, triple asiaticoside has synergistic effect, which can greatly effectively relieve the red spot irritation of skin care product containing 0.1% retinol to the skin and reduce the damage to the skin barrier.

Claims

1. A composition for soothing retinol irritation, characterized by: Phytosteryl / ethylhexyl lauroyl glutamate 1-5 parts, triple ceramide 0.03-0.2 parts, acetylchitose 1-5 parts, panthenol 0.5-2 parts and triple centella 0.2-1 part; the triple ceramide comprises ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide NS / ceramide NG; the triple centella comprises hydroxyl centella, centella extract and centella glycoside.

2. A soothing retinol-irritated composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: Phytosteryl / ethylhexyl lauroyl glutamate 2-3 parts, triple ceramide 0.06-0.15 parts, acetylchitose 2-3 parts, panthenol 1-2 parts and triple centella 0.5-1 part.

3. A soothing retinol-irritated composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: Phytosteryl / ethylhexyl lauroyl glutamate 3 parts, triple ceramide 0.06 parts, acetylchitose 2 parts, panthenol 1 part and triple centella 0.5 part.

4. A soothing retinol-irritated composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: Phytosteryl / ethylhexyl lauroyl glutamate 2 parts, triple ceramide 0.06 parts, acetylchitose 2 parts, panthenol 1 part and triple centella 0.5 part.

5. A soothing retinol-irritated composition according to claim 1, characterized by: The mass ratio of the ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide NS / ceramide NG is (2-3):1:(0.9-1.5).

6. A soothing retinol-irritated composition according to claim 5, characterized in that: The mass ratio of the ceramide NP, ceramide AP and ceramide NS / ceramide NG is 2.5:1:1.

1.

7. A soothing retinol-irritated composition according to claim 1, characterized by: The mass ratio of the hydroxyl centella, centella extract and centella glycoside is (28-32):(1.5-2):

1.

8. A soothing retinol-irritated composition according to claim 7, characterized in that: The mass ratio of the hydroxyl centella, centella extract and centella glycoside is 30.7:1.7:

1.

9. A skin care product comprising the soothing retinol irritation composition of any one of claims 1-8 and retinol, the mass fraction of the composition in the skin care product being 5.56-6.56%, and the mass fraction of the retinol in the skin care product being 0.1%.

10. Use of the soothing retinol irritation composition of any one of claims 1-8 in the preparation of a skin care product containing 0.1% mass fraction of retinol.

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