A method for dyeing a wide silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric

Abstract

A kind of wide silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric's pad dyeing method belongs to real silk dyeing and finishing technical field.It includes the following steps: including the following steps: 1) pre-setting, 2) biological degumming, 3) pad dyeing, 4) washing, 5) soaping, 6) drying, 7) tentering setting;1) pre-setting: the dry state of fabric, setting, setting temperature 195-200 ℃, speed 30-35 m / min;3) pad dyeing: the fabric is wound on the pad dyeing machine, and then dyed with dye liquor;Dye liquor contains water, reactive dye 10-25 g / L, sodium sulphate 50-65 g / L, soda 3-7 g / L;Dyeing temperature 78~82 ℃.The wide silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric's pad dyeing method of the application, after dyeing, the weft yarn is not lost elastic, the weft elastic is good, the width is stable, the shrinkage is low, and the color fastness is good, the warp yarn is not stained with weft yarn.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] A method for dyeing wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric belongs to the field of silk dyeing and finishing technology. Background Technology

[0002] Silk-nylon stretch jacquard fabric refers to a jacquard fabric woven from silk yarn and elastic nylon yarn. It typically uses long-filament silk yarn as the warp and nylon-spandex elastic fibers as the weft. Silk-nylon stretch jacquard fabric combines the advantages of both silk and nylon. It possesses the soft, smooth feel, gentle, high-end luster, and high moisture absorption and breathability of silk, while also having the high strength, high abrasion resistance, and wrinkle resistance of nylon. Furthermore, spandex provides weft elasticity, resulting in excellent wearability. Additionally, because the warp and weft yarns are made of different fibers, it is expected that the warp and weft yarns can display two different colors, creating a striking color contrast in the jacquard pattern and making the jacquard design prominent.

[0003] The applicant discovered the following problems with the dyeing of existing silk-nylon stretch jacquard fabrics during the research: First, the fabric loses elasticity in the weft direction after dyeing. Silk-nylon stretch jacquard fabrics cannot be produced using a fully yarn-dyed method, meaning the warp and weft yarns cannot be dyed separately before being fully yarn-dyed. If fully yarn-dyed, the warp silk must be degummed before dyeing, and then dyed and woven again. Degummed silk is delicate and easily damaged, and problems such as breakage and luster loss are prone to occur during the weaving process.

[0004] Current technologies all use raw silk (i.e., silk with sericin) for weaving. The sericin acts like a shell, protecting the silk from damage during weaving. After the fabric is woven, it is then refined and degummed, and the silk warp yarns are dyed first, followed by the dyeing of the nylon and spandex weft yarns. However, the refining and degumming process, along with the subsequent repeated high-temperature dyeing, can easily damage the elasticity of the spandex in the weft yarns, causing the silk fabric to lose its weft elasticity.

[0005] Secondly, the fabric exhibits poor width stability and high shrinkage during finishing. The weft yarn is made of nylon-spandex elastic fibers, and under current process conditions, the width is unstable during dyeing and finishing. Because the jacquard fabric has a jacquard pattern, the unstable width leads to pattern deformation, causing fluctuations along with the width. High shrinkage means that after downstream customers wash the fabric, the jacquard pattern shrinks along the weft direction, resulting in a discrepancy between the jacquard pattern and the customer's sample. In severe cases, this can lead to returns from downstream customers. To complete production, current technology often uses secondary finishing to remedy this, but secondary finishing is time-consuming and energy-intensive.

[0006] Secondly, the fabric design aims to present a jacquard effect with different colors for the warp and weft yarns. During fabric dyeing, the problem of dye staining between the warp and weft yarns frequently occurs, affecting the fabric's visual appeal. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a method for dyeing wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric. The method ensures that the weft yarn does not lose its elasticity after dyeing, the width is stable, the shrinkage rate is low, and the color fastness is good. The dyeing of the warp yarn does not stain the weft yarn.

[0008] The technical solution adopted by this invention to solve its technical problem is: a method for dyeing a wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric, comprising the following steps: 1) pre-setting, 2) biological degumming, 3) dyeing, 4) washing, 5) soaping, 6) drying, and 7) stretching and setting; wherein,

[0009] Step 1) The specific operation of pre-setting is as follows: Set the fabric in a dry state, with a setting temperature of 195-200℃ and a speed of 30-35m / min.

[0010] Step 3) The specific operation of roll dyeing is as follows: put the fabric on the roll dyeing machine, and then roll dye with dye liquor; the dye liquor contains water, 10-25g / L of reactive dye, 50-65g / L of sodium sulfate, and 3-7g / L of soda ash; the dyeing temperature is 78~82℃.

[0011] Step 2) The specific operation of biological degumming is as follows: the fabric is immersed in the solution at a speed of 60-65m / min, and then cold-piled for 12-18 hours at a temperature of 42-48℃; the solution consists of 9-15g / L degumming agent, 3-6g / L baking soda and water.

[0012] Step 2) The degumming agent is degumming powder ZS-60.

[0013] Step 3) The reactive dye is reactive dye SE.

[0014] Step 4) The specific operation of water washing is as follows: water temperature 40-50℃, 2-3 water washes, and vehicle speed of 5-15m / min for each water wash.

[0015] Step 5) The specific operation of soap washing is as follows: boil soap at 60-65℃ once, then wash with water at 40-50℃ 2-3 times, with a washing speed of 5-15m / min for each wash.

[0016] Step 6) The specific operation of drying is as follows: dry the fabric at a temperature of 70℃-80℃.

[0017] Step 7) The specific operation of stretching and setting is as follows: stretch and set the fabric at a temperature of 110-120℃ and a speed of 30-35m / min.

[0018] In step 1), the fabric is made of raw silk filaments and the weft yarn is nylon-spandex covered yarn.

[0019] Fiber cohesion refers to the resistance generated when fibers in contact slide relative to each other axially under zero radial pressure, or when fibers are pulled out of a fiber bundle. It is caused by rough fiber surfaces, the presence of scales, or the presence of twists or curls. Fiber cohesion is a crucial factor determining fiber spinnability. The greater the fiber cohesion, the less likely the fibers are to unravel or break during weaving. Raw silk fibers have higher cohesion than degummed and dyed silk fibers; using raw silk as warp yarns results in a lower breakage rate and significantly improved weaving efficiency.

[0020] The weft yarn is a commercially available nylon-spandex covered yarn, which may be white or colored. Currently, the method for coloring the weft yarn typically involves first dyeing the nylon fibers, then spinning the dyed nylon fibers with spandex to obtain a colored nylon-spandex covered yarn. This allows the weft yarn to be colored without requiring a heat dyeing process, thus preserving the elasticity of the spandex.

[0021] However, in the fabric of this invention, the silk filaments used as warp yarns cannot be dyed and then woven with the weft yarns, which would lead to severe warp breakage defects. Therefore, the applicant designed the process of this invention.

[0022] Preferably, the warp yarn of the fabric of the present invention is 2-4 strands of raw silk filament in the state of 18-20 / 20-22d, and the weft yarn is 1-2 strands of nylon + spandex covered yarn of 30-75d.

[0023] Further preferred, the warp yarn consists of two strands of 20 / 22d raw silk filament and the weft yarn consists of one strand of 75d nylon + 30d spandex covered yarn.

[0024] The invention is described as follows: In step 2), the degumming powder ZS-60 is produced by Yinrui Chemical and is used for degumming silk fibers before dyeing. It belongs to the biological degumming method, which is mild, friendly to silk fibers, and does not damage them. It has low energy consumption, high efficiency, and can protect spandex and prevent damage to the elasticity of spandex.

[0025] Regarding the application of the process of this invention, the final fabric obtained by the process of this invention has silk warp yarns of one color and weft yarns of another color. The weft yarns of the fabric are either colored or white.

[0026] If the nylon fiber in the weft yarn itself has a color (not white), the colored weft yarn is interwoven with the raw silk warp yarn to obtain a jacquard fabric. The fabric is then dyed only on the warp yarn using the process of this invention. The resulting wide-width silk nylon elastic jacquard fabric has a two-color jacquard pattern.

[0027] If the weft yarn is white, the process of this invention only dyes the warp yarn, and the resulting wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric will have a jacquard pattern that presents the style of a fabric with colored silk warp yarns and white weft yarns interwoven.

[0028] Regardless of whether the weft yarn is colored, if the weft yarn is stained during the dyeing of the warp yarn, it will affect the visual effect of the fabric. In mild cases, it will cause color deviation, which will not match the sample provided by the customer, resulting in a low sample matching rate and making it impossible to complete production. In severe cases, it will lead to the customer returning the goods and requesting a refund, requiring compensation for the customer's economic loss of raw materials.

[0029] Therefore, the applicant, through research and design, determined that the reactive dye used in step 3) of the roll dyeing process is reactive dye SE, produced by Huntsman Chemicals' AVITERA. Reactive dye SE dyes silk fibers. This dye contains monochlorotriazine and vinyl sulfone dual reactive groups. It is dyed using 60g / L sodium sulfate, 5g / L sodium bicarbonate, and at 80℃. The dye forms covalent bonds with the silk fibers, exhibiting high and stable bond energy. All color fastness grades are >4, meeting the national standard for superior quality. Furthermore, during the dyeing process, reactive dye SE, in conjunction with the roll dyeing process conditions of step 3) of this invention, can dye silk fibers but not nylon and spandex, thus achieving warp dyeing without staining the weft yarn.

[0030] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0031] 1. The present invention relates to a method for dyeing wide-width nylon elastic jacquard fabric, characterized by width stability and low shrinkage. The applicant discovered in its research that the fabric's weft width is unstable and prone to shrinkage, the cause of which lies in the nylon fibers. The fabric's weft yarn is nylon-spandex covered yarn; nylon fibers have a low glass transition temperature (60-65°C), and their molecular chains contain numerous amino groups (-NH2), exhibiting good hydrophilicity. Nylon fiber molecular chains have low crystallinity and many amorphous regions, making them prone to shrinkage upon contact with water, resulting in poor product dimensional stability. Therefore, the applicant determined through research that pre-setting the fabric, increasing the setting temperature, raises the glass transition temperature of the nylon fibers, increasing their crystallinity, thereby improving the dimensional stability of the product after contact with water during the dyeing and finishing process, and thus reducing the shrinkage rate of the final product.

[0032] Before step 2) biological degumming, the pre-setting process in step 1) significantly stabilizes the fabric width and reduces shrinkage. Spandex is not resistant to prolonged high temperatures, and short-term high temperatures have no significant impact on its elasticity. Therefore, the applicant designed the pre-setting temperature for step 1) to be 195-200℃, which effectively sets the warp and weft yarns (still raw silk), reducing warp shrinkage and increasing the crystallinity of nylon fibers, thereby reducing weft shrinkage. The machine speed of 30-35 m / min ensures a fast processing speed in step 1) without damaging the elasticity of the spandex in the weft yarns. This improves the dimensional stability of the product after contact with water during dyeing and finishing, avoiding the high energy consumption and low efficiency problems caused by dimensional changes, inconsistent widths, and repeated setting during the dyeing process.

[0033] 2. The dyeing method for wide-width silk nylon elastic jacquard fabric of the present invention ensures that the weft yarns do not lose elasticity after dyeing, thus protecting the weft elasticity of the fabric. The fabric used in this invention is a semi-dyed fabric. Before weaving, the warp yarns are undyed silk, while the nylon in the weft yarns is already colored, either white or another color. Therefore, it is unnecessary to dye the weft yarns in the fabric, avoiding damage to the elasticity of the spandex caused by dyeing the nylon in the weft yarns. The applicant's research found that spandex cannot withstand prolonged high temperatures above 100°C, but short-term high temperatures have no significant effect on its elasticity. Therefore, the process includes step 2) biological degumming and step 3) dyeing, with a dyeing temperature of 80°C, to avoid high-temperature damage to the elasticity of the spandex in the weft yarns.

[0034] 3. The dyeing method for wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric of the present invention has good colorfastness, and the warp yarns do not stain the weft yarns when dyeing. The dyeing process uses specific reactive dyes and controls the process conditions. This ensures that the weft yarns do not stain when dyeing the silk warp yarns. The reactive dye SE can form covalent bonds with silk fibers, possessing high bond energy. Under humid and hot conditions and external friction, the covalent bonds will not break, resulting in excellent colorfastness of the silk fibers. Detailed Implementation

[0035] The present invention will be further described below with reference to specific embodiments, wherein Embodiment 1 is the preferred embodiment.

[0036] The equipment used for pre-stenting and tenter framing is a German Monfong S828TWNAR5F stenter.

[0037] The dyeing machine is from Wuxi Gaotemai Machinery Manufacturing Co., Ltd., specifically the SMD300B-1800mm computer-controlled dual-frequency ambient temperature dyeing machine.

[0038] The fabric used in the examples and comparative examples was a wide-width silk-nylon stretch jacquard fabric, 200cm wide; the warp yarn was two strands of 20 / 22d raw silk filament; the weft yarn was one strand of 75d nylon + 30d spandex covered yarn, and the weft yarn manufacturer was Zibo Tailin Textile Co., Ltd.; in order to better observe whether the weft yarn was stained after dyeing, the weft yarn in the examples and comparative examples was white;

[0039] The reactive dye is SE, a reactive dye manufactured by Huntsman Chemicals' AVITERA division.

[0040] The degumming agent is Yinrui Chemical's degumming and desizing powder ZS-60.

[0041] Example 1

[0042] 1) Pre-setting: The fabric in a dry state is set at a setting temperature of 195℃ and a machine speed of 35m / min;

[0043] 2) Biological degumming: The fabric is impregnated with the solution at a speed of 60m / min, and then cold-piled for 18 hours at a temperature of 45℃; the solution consists of 10g / L degumming agent, 5g / L baking soda and water.

[0044] 3) Roll dyeing: The fabric is placed on a roll dyeing machine and then dyed with dye liquor; the dye liquor contains water, 20g / L of reactive dye, 60g / L of sodium sulfate, and 5g / L of soda ash; the dyeing temperature is 80℃.

[0045] 4) Water washing: Water washing temperature 45℃, 2 water washing passes, 10m / min speed for each water washing pass.

[0046] 5) Soap washing: Boil at 65℃ once, then wash three times with water at 45℃, with a washing speed of 10m / min for each wash.

[0047] 6) Drying: Dry the fabric at a temperature of 75℃;

[0048] 7) Tensioning and setting: Tension and set the fabric at a temperature of 115℃ and a speed of 35m / min.

[0049] Example 2

[0050] 1) Pre-setting: The fabric in a dry state is set at a setting temperature of 200℃ and a machine speed of 35m / min;

[0051] 2) Biological degumming: The fabric is impregnated with the solution at a speed of 60m / min, and then cold-piled for 18 hours at a temperature of 48℃; the solution consists of 9g / L degumming agent, 3g / L baking soda and water;

[0052] 3) Roll dyeing: The fabric is placed on a roll dyeing machine and then dyed with dye liquor; the dye liquor contains water, 10g / L of reactive dye, 50g / L of sodium sulfate, and 3g / L of soda ash; the dyeing temperature is 80℃.

[0053] 4) Water washing: Water washing temperature 40℃, 2 water washing passes, 5m / min speed for each water washing pass.

[0054] 5) Soap washing: Boil at 65℃ once, then wash twice with water at 40℃, with a washing speed of 5m / min for each wash.

[0055] 6) Drying: Dry the fabric at a temperature of 70℃;

[0056] 7) Tensioning and setting: Tension and set the fabric at a temperature of 110℃ and a speed of 30m / min.

[0057] Example 3

[0058] 1) Pre-setting: The fabric in a dry state is set at a setting temperature of 195℃ and a machine speed of 30m / min;

[0059] 2) Biological degumming: The fabric is impregnated with the solution at a speed of 60m / min, and then cold-piled for 12 hours at a temperature of 42℃; the solution consists of 15g / L degumming agent, 6g / L baking soda and water;

[0060] 3) Roll dyeing: The fabric is placed on a roll dyeing machine and then dyed with dye liquor; the dye liquor contains water, 25g / L of reactive dye, 65g / L of sodium sulfate, and 7g / L of soda ash; the dyeing temperature is 80℃.

[0061] 4) Water washing: Water washing temperature 50℃, 3 water washings, 15m / min speed for each water washing.

[0062] 5) Soap washing: Boil soap at 60℃ once, then wash with water at 50℃ twice, with a washing speed of 15m / min for each wash.

[0063] 6) Drying: Dry the fabric at a temperature of 80℃;

[0064] 7) Tensioning and setting: Tension and set the fabric at a temperature of 120℃ and a speed of 35m / min.

[0065] Comparative Example 1

[0066] The preparation method of this comparative example is the same as that of Example 1, except that step 1) of pre-forming was not performed.

[0067] Comparative Example 2

[0068] The preparation method for this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that: step 1) the pre-molding temperature is lower.

[0069] 1) Pre-setting: The fabric in the dry state is set at a setting temperature of 180°C and the machine speed is the same as in Example 1.

[0070] Comparative Example 3

[0071] The preparation method for this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that: step 1) the vehicle speed is lower.

[0072] 1) Pre-setting: The fabric in the dry state is set at the same temperature as in Example 1, and the speed is 5m / min.

[0073] Comparative Example 4

[0074] The preparation method of this comparative example is the same as that of Example 1, except that in step 3), the reactive dye is replaced with Taiwan Yongguang Reactive Red LX.

[0075] Performance testing

[0076] Test 1: Fastness test, refer to standard number

[0077] Manual inspection was conducted. 20 meters of silk fabric from each example were randomly sampled and visually inspected. The total number of defects per crease was recorded, and the average value was calculated. Average crease defect value = Total number of crease defects / 2 × 100% (unit: defects / 10 meters, rounded to one decimal place).

[0078] Test 2: Width fluctuation and shrinkage rate.

[0079] Inspection personnel conducted random sampling tests, sampling each roll of fabric 40 times, recording the maximum and minimum width values ​​to obtain the width distribution range. The wider the distribution range, the more unstable the width. The shrinkage rate was obtained by measuring the average width before and after water treatment.

[0080] Test 3: Weft yarn staining

[0081] The inspection was conducted by visual inspection. For each example, 40 meters of fabric were randomly sampled and visually inspected for color staining on the weft yarns. No color staining: 4 points; slight color staining, almost indistinguishable to the naked eye: 3 points; moderate color staining, visible to the naked eye: 2 points; severe color staining, with deep and obvious color staining on the weft yarns: 1 point.

[0082] Table 1. Test results for examples and comparative examples.

[0083] .

[0084] As can be seen from Table 1, after using the dyeing method of Examples 1-3, the fabric still has high elasticity in the weft direction, achieving no loss of elasticity in the weft yarn, and the width fluctuation is small with low shrinkage rate; experienced clerks can visually observe that the weft yarn does not stain.

[0085] The above description is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the invention in any other way. Any person skilled in the art may make changes or modifications to the above-disclosed technical content to create equivalent embodiments. However, any simple modifications, equivalent changes, and modifications made to the above embodiments based on the technical essence of the present invention without departing from the scope of the present invention shall still fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for dyeing wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: 1) Pre-setting, 2) Biological degumming, 3) Roll dyeing, 4) Washing, 5) Soap washing, 6) Drying, 7) Tentation setting; among which, Step 1) The specific operation of pre-setting is as follows: Set the dry fabric, set the temperature at 195-200℃, and set the speed at 30-35m / min; Step 3) The specific operation of roll dyeing is as follows: put the fabric on the roll dyeing machine, and then roll dye with dye liquor; the dye liquor contains water, 10-25g / L of reactive dye, 50-65g / L of sodium sulfate, and 3-7g / L of soda ash; the dyeing temperature is 78~82℃. Step 2) The specific operation of biological degumming is as follows: the fabric is immersed in the solution at a speed of 60-65m / min, and then cold-piled for 12-18 hours at a temperature of 42-48℃; the solution consists of degumming powder ZS-60 9-15g / L, baking soda 3-6g / L and water. Step 3) The reactive dye is reactive dye SE; Step 4) The specific operation of water washing is as follows: water temperature 40-50℃, 2-3 water washes, and vehicle speed of 5-15m / min for each water wash. In step 1), the fabric is made of raw silk filaments and the weft yarn is nylon-spandex covered yarn.

2. The dyeing method for a wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step 5) The specific operation of soap washing is as follows: boil soap at 60-65℃ once, then wash with water at 40-50℃ 2-3 times, with a washing speed of 5-15m / min for each wash.

3. The dyeing method for a wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step 6) The specific operation of drying is as follows: dry the fabric at a temperature of 70℃-80℃.

4. The dyeing method for a wide-width silk brocade elastic jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step 7) The specific operation of stretching and setting is as follows: stretch and set the fabric at a temperature of 110-120℃ and a speed of 30-35m / min.