A stand-up collar hood and its pattern design method and application

Abstract

The present invention discloses a pattern design method for a stand-up collar hooded garment, comprising the following steps: S1, collarhole structural line design; S2, obtaining head size, and drawing a basic frame structure according to the head size, appearance requirements, and functional requirements; S3, adding the expansion amount of the stand-up collar upper stop; S4, drawing the hat shape curve; S5, drawing the hat outer stop curve. The present invention also discloses a stand-up collar hooded garment prepared using the above-mentioned pattern design method, and the stand-up collar hooded garment is applied to down jackets, jackets, and cotton jackets. The present invention optimizes the structure of the stand-up collar hooded garment from the perspectives of aesthetics and structure, splits the stand-up collar of the hooded garment into a stand-up collar and a hat, and combines the two. The expansion of the stand-up collar upper stop satisfies the front center inclination of the hooded collar, and the connection of the stand-up collar and the hat outer stop arc achieves an aesthetically pleasing appearance and windproof and warming effects, thereby solving the problem of the front collar getting stuck in the neck and hitting the chin caused by the structure.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of clothing, and relates to a sample design method for a stand-up collar and hood, in particular to a sample design technology for a stand-up collar and hood of a down garment, a jacket, or a cotton coat. Background Art

[0002] Stand-up collar hoods are prone to chin-bumping and neck-snapping due to the insufficient tilt angle and the backward force generated by the hood being taken off and stacked on the back. Existing stand-up collar hood designs often rely on approximations and quantitative methods, relying too much on the designer's personal experience and resulting in a high degree of arbitrariness. Furthermore, pattern makers currently design stand-up collar hoods based on the key principles and rules of fold-over collars. While these designs share similarities with fold-over collars, they cannot fully incorporate the key principles and rules of fold-over collars. Currently, there is no pattern-making method that fully reflects the design principles of stand-up collar hoods.

[0003] Therefore, it is urgent to solve the above problems. Summary of the Invention

[0004] Purpose of the invention: The purpose of the present invention is to optimize the structure of a stand-up collar hood from the perspective of aesthetics and structure, and to provide a stand-up collar hood and a pattern design method thereof to solve the problem of the front collar getting stuck in the neck and pressing on the chin due to the structure.

[0005] Another object of the present invention is to provide applications of the above-mentioned stand-up collar hood.

[0006] Technical solution: A method for designing a stand-up collar and hooded pattern of the present invention comprises the following steps:

[0007] S1. Collar structure design: evenly distribute the looseness to the front and back collar areas of the body, adjust the collar to be round, and obtain the front collar curve F1D1 and the back collar curve D2N2;

[0008] S2. Obtain the head size and draw a basic framework structure based on the head size, appearance requirements, and functional requirements, including two superimposed rectangles: BCG1G and AFNN1. BCG1G is the hat portion, and AFNN1 is the stand-up collar portion. Take a point D on the side FN of rectangle AFNN1, such that FD equals the length of the front collar curve F1D1, and DN equals the length of the back collar curve D2N2. Draw a vertical line with point D as the base point. This vertical line intersects AN1 at point E1 and BG at point E. Where BG is the finished hat width, ED is the hat height, AF is the front center stand-up collar height, AC equals face width / 2 minus the adjustment amount, and D is the side point of the neck, aligned with the body parts D1 and D2.

[0009] S3. Add the expansion amount of the stand-up collar top seam in the AE1 area to create a horizontal drop h between point F and point N. The horizontal drop h is the amount of collar lift.

[0010] S4. Draw the hat's outer shape curve: Take point B1 on BC, so that BB1 = 1.5-2.5 cm. Take point G2 on GG1, so that GG2:G2G1 = 2:3. Take point G3 0.5-1 cm below point G2 in the direction of straight line GG1. Round the curve B1EG3N. At the same time, extend the arc of the curve B1EG3N in the direction of EBI by 0.5-1 cm to obtain B2. The curve B2B1EG3N is the hat's outer shape curve. The curve B2B1EG3N is tangent to N1N at point N.

[0011] S5. Draw the outer seam curve of the hat: take point B3 on BC, make BB3:B3C=2:3, extend E1C to C2, make a 45° ray in the right angle C2CB, take point C1 on the ray, make CC1=3~5cm, connect B2B3C1A, this curve is the outer seam curve of the hat.

[0012] Furthermore, the distribution of the looseness in step S1 includes lowering the back collar depth point by 0.5 to 1 cm, lowering the front collar depth point by 2 to 3 cm, and transferring the amount to the shaping amount to serve as the looseness.

[0013] Furthermore, the shaping amount includes the amount of chest dart and shoulder dart.

[0014] Furthermore, after distributing the looseness, the total width of the collar hole is 10 to 12 cm, and the total length of the collar hole is 55 to 56 cm.

[0015] Furthermore, the method of obtaining the head size in step S2 is: establishing an effective database, collecting data on head circumference, face width, head height, and head side width, and summarizing them to form a regression equation between head circumference and hat height and hat width.

[0016] Furthermore, the adjustment amount in step S2 is 1±0.5 cm.

[0017] Furthermore, the warping amount h in step S3 is 4.7-5.2 cm.

[0018] Furthermore, a stand-up collar hooded hat is provided, which is manufactured according to the above-mentioned stand-up collar hooded hat pattern design method.

[0019] Furthermore, the stand-up collar and hood also includes a hood center and a hood brim.

[0020] Furthermore, the stand-up collar and hood are applied to down jackets, jackets and cotton-padded jackets.

[0021] Beneficial effects: Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following significant advantages: 1. The present invention separates the stand-up collar hood into a stand-up collar and a hat, and combines the two. The front tilt of the hooded collar is satisfied by the expansion of the upper stop of the stand-up collar, and the arc line of the outer stop of the stand-up collar and the hat is connected to achieve an aesthetic appearance and a wind-blocking and warmth-keeping effect; 2. The problems of the stand-up collar hood pressing on the chin and getting stuck on the neck are solved through structural optimization. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0022] Figure 1 This is a collar pattern diagram of the present invention.

[0023] Figure 2 It is the basic frame structure of the stand-up collar and hood of the present invention.

[0024] Figure 3 This is a sample diagram of a stand-up collar and hood of the present invention.

[0025] Figure 4 These are sample images obtained by changing the value of the warping amount h in different embodiments 1-3.

[0026] Figure 5 These are the front and side renderings of the stand-up collar hood prepared in Examples 1-3.

[0027] Figure 6 These are the front and side renderings of the stand-up collar and hood prepared in Examples 4-6.

[0028] Figure 7 These are the front and side views of the stand-up collar and hood of the present invention applied to a down jacket. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0029] The technical solution of the present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0030] In this embodiment, taking a down jacket as an example, a stand-up collar and hooded pattern is designed by the following steps:

[0031] Step S1, collar structure line design: distribute slack evenly to the front and back collar areas of the body, adjust the collar to be round, and obtain the front collar curve F1D1 and the back collar curve D2N2.

[0032] like Figure 1 As shown, due to the thickness of down jackets, a certain amount of slack E is allocated to both the front and back collar areas in the collar design. Part of the styling volume is also transferred in as slack, including the chest dart e1 and the shoulder dart e2. The back collar depth is raised by a value of 0.5-1 cm, and the total horizontal collar width W1 is controlled at 10-12 cm. The front collar depth is lowered by b = 2-3 cm, not too deep. The front horizontal collar width corresponds to the back horizontal collar width. The collar is adjusted to be smooth, both for aesthetics and to provide enhanced support for the collar. The total collar length is 55-56 cm.

[0033] like Figure 2 As shown, step S2, obtain the head size, and draw the basic frame structure according to the head size, appearance requirements and functional requirements, including two superimposed rectangles: BCG1G and AFNN1, where BCG1G is the hat part and AFNN1 is the stand-up collar part; BG is the finished hat width W, ED is the hat height H, AF is the front center stand-up collar height, FD is equal to the length of the front collar curve F1D1, DN is equal to the length of the back collar curve D2N2, AC is equal to the face width / 2-adjustment amount, D is the neck side point, which is aligned with the body D1 and D2; the adjustment amount is 0.5~1cm, and in this embodiment, 1cm is taken.

[0034] In a specific embodiment, dimensions are obtained by establishing a valid database, collecting data such as head circumference, face width, head height, and head side width. This is then summarized to form a regression equation between head circumference, hat height, and hat width, allowing for effective use of head circumference data in national standards. Based on this database, the basic framework structure is designed. In this embodiment, the face width is assumed to be 12 cm, the collar height AF = 9 cm, the hat width BG = 31 cm, and the hat height ED = 37 cm.

[0035] like Figure 3 As shown, in step S3, the expansion amount of the upper stop of the stand-up collar is added to the AE1 area so that there is a horizontal drop h between point F and point N. The horizontal drop h is the amount of collar lift; in a specific embodiment, h = 4.7 to 5.2 cm.

[0036] Step S4, draw the hat shape curve: take point B1 on BC, make BB1 ​​= 1.5-2.5 cm, preferably BB1 = 2 cm, take point B2 extending 0.5-1 cm outward from B1, preferably B1B2 = 1 cm, take point G2 on GG1, make GG2:G2G1 = 2:3, take point G3 0.5-1 cm downward from G2, preferably G2G3 = 1 cm, round the curve B2B1EG3N, which is the hat shape curve, and is tangent to N1N at point N;

[0037] Step S5, draw the outer seam curve of the hat: take point B3 on BC, make BB3:B3C=2:3, extend E1C to C2, set the angle C1CC2 to 45°, set CC1 to 3~5cm, preferably CC1=4.5cm, connect B2B3C1A, and this curve is the outer seam curve of the hat.

[0038] On this basis, the hat can be segmented, such as setting the middle of the hat, the brim or other segmentation changes.

[0039] On this basis, the embodiment is set by changing different values:

[0040] ① Keep the hat height H and hat width W unchanged, keep the horizontal distance between the vertical line of the face width and the front neckline, change the expansion amount and the collar lift amount h, and the front tilt of the neutral collar before the experiment. Set up 3 groups of examples, see Table 1 for details

[0041] Table 1 Neckline forward tilt changes and appearance effects

[0042]

[0043]

[0044] like Figure 4 As shown, the plate-making diagrams under different warping amounts h of Examples 1-3 correspond to Figure 5 The front and side views show the effect. Experimental results show that when the front stop is expanded and the lift h is 4.7-5.2 cm, the outer stop B2A reaches 70-72 cm, and the front neckline angle is 54°-63°. The resulting stand-up collar and hooded top have a better overall appearance and meet the dual requirements of not hitting the chin and being aesthetically pleasing.

[0045] ② Extend E1C to C2, with angles C1 and C2 at 45°. Connect B2, B3, and C1A. Curve B2A is the outer seam curve of the cap. CC1 takes values ​​of 3, 3.7, and 4.5, respectively. Three sets of examples are set, as shown in Table 2.

[0046] Table 2 The influence of neckline arc on appearance

[0047] serial number Experiment number CC1 long Example 4 1-3-1 3cm Example 5 1-3-2 3.7cm Example 6 1-3-3 4.5cm

[0048] like Figure 6 The following are the front and side views of Examples 4 and 5. Experiments have shown that when CC1 = 4.5 cm, the side face is completely obscured, while the front view appears slender, achieving the highest aesthetic and wind-blocking performance.

[0049] ③ Carry out actual sample tests according to the above experimental values, using 70D nylon four-way stretch yarn fabric, 140g spray-bonded cotton filling, 800 fill duck down filling, 5# resin zipper and other ingredients and accessories.

[0050] The results are as follows Figure 7 As shown in the figure, it can be seen that the prepared stand-up collar and hood are applied to down jackets, which fully achieves the predetermined appearance and comfort goals and solves the problems of chin-pushing and neck-blocking.

Claims

1. A method for designing a stand-up collar and hooded pattern, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1. Collar structure design: evenly distribute the looseness to the front and back collar areas of the body, adjust the collar to be round, and obtain the front collar curve F1D1 and the back collar curve D2N2; S2. Obtain the head size and draw a basic framework structure based on the head size, appearance requirements, and functional requirements, including two superimposed rectangles: BCG1G and AFNN1. BCG1G is the hat portion, and AFNN1 is the stand-up collar portion. Take a point D on the side FN of rectangle AFNN1, such that FD equals the length of the front collar curve F1D1, and DN equals the length of the back collar curve D2N2. Draw a vertical line with point D as the base point. This vertical line intersects AN1 at point E1 and BG at point E. Where BG is the finished hat width, ED is the hat height, AF is the front center stand-up collar height, AC equals face width / 2 minus the adjustment amount, and D is the side point of the neck, aligned with the body parts D1 and D2. S3. Add the expansion amount of the stand-up collar top seam in the AE1 area to create a horizontal drop h between point F and point N. The horizontal drop h is the amount of collar lift. S4. Draw the hat's outer shape curve: Take point B1 on BC, so that BB1 = 1.5-2.5 cm. Take point G2 on GG1, so that GG2:G2G1 = 2:

3. Take point G3 0.5-1 cm below point G2 in the direction of straight line GG1. Round the curve B1EG3N and extend it 0.5-1 cm in the direction of EB1 along the arc of the curve B1EG3N to obtain B2. The curve B2B1EG3N is the hat's outer shape curve. The curve B2B1EG3N is tangent to N1N at point N. S5. Draw the outer seam curve of the hat: take point B3 on BC, make BB3:B3C=2:3, extend E1C to C2, make a 45° ray in the right angle C2CB, take point C1 on the ray, make CC1=3~5cm, connect B2B3C1A, this curve is the outer seam curve of the hat.

2. The method for designing a stand-up collar hooded pattern according to claim 1, characterized in that: The distribution of the looseness in step S1 includes lowering the back collar deep point by 0.5 to 1 cm and the front collar deep point by 2 to 3 cm, and the amount is transferred to the shaping amount to serve as the looseness.

3. The method for designing a stand-up collar hooded pattern according to claim 2, wherein: The shaping amount includes the amount of bust darts and shoulder darts.

4. The method for designing a stand-up collar hooded pattern according to claim 3, wherein: After distributing the looseness, the total horizontal width of the collar is 10 to 12 cm, and the total length of the collar is 55 to 56 cm.

5. The method for designing a stand-up collar hooded pattern according to claim 1, wherein: The method of obtaining the head size in step S2 is: establishing an effective database, collecting data on head circumference, face width, head height, and head side width, and summarizing them to form a regression equation between head circumference and hat height and hat width.

6. The method for designing a stand-up collar hooded pattern according to claim 1, wherein: The adjustment amount in step S2 is 1±0.5 cm.

7. The method for designing a stand-up collar hooded pattern according to claim 1, wherein: The warping amount h in step S3 is 4.7-5.2 cm.

8. A stand-up collar hood, characterized in that: It is made according to the pattern design method of any one of claims 1 to 7.

9. The stand-up collar hood according to claim 8, characterized in that: The stand-up collar and hood also include a hood center and a hood brim.

10. The use of a stand-up collar hood according to any one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that: The stand-up collar and hood are applied to down garments, jackets and cotton clothes.

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