High SPF gel composition
A high SPF gel composition with specific thickeners and modifiers stabilizes water-soluble sunscreens, addressing sensory challenges and providing effective UV protection with a comfortable, non-greasy application.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380040174.8
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-05-13
- Filing Date
- 2023-05-10
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing high SPF cosmetic compositions face challenges in stabilizing water-soluble sunscreens in gel form while maintaining sensory properties such as low oiliness, non-stickiness, and good spreadability.
A photoprotective gel composition comprising specific ratios of oil-soluble and water-soluble sunscreens, along with selected aqueous and oil phase thickeners, humectants, and sensory modifiers, which includes polysaccharide gums, synthetic polymers, esters of fatty acids, and silica particles, to achieve stability and desired tactile properties.
The composition provides a stable gel with high SPF, offering a light, non-oily, and non-sticky feel, enhancing skin protection against UV-A and UV-B radiation while ensuring easy application and comfort.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a photoprotective personal care composition providing a high sun protection factor (SPF). More specifically, it relates to a high SPF gel composition that provides very good sensory properties desired by consumers when the composition is applied to the skin, such as low oiliness and good spreadability. Background Art
[0002] Solar radiation includes about 5% ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which has a wavelength between 200nm and 400nm. It is further divided into three regions: 320 to 400nm (UV-A), 280 to 320nm (UV-B), and 200 to 280nm (UV-C). Most of the UV-C radiation is absorbed by ozone. Scientific studies have shown that short-term exposure to UV-A and UV-B radiation can cause pigmentation, reddening of the skin and local irritation, while continuous or long-term exposure can lead to the formation of sunburn, melanoma, wrinkles and age spots. UV radiation is also considered to cause severe damage to hair. Therefore, it is desirable to protect the skin and other keratin matrices of the human body from the harmful effects of UV-A and UV-B radiation. This is provided by providing cosmetic compositions with high SPF (sun protection factor).
[0003] Various cosmetic preparations are reported for preventing and / or protecting the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. Many organic sunscreens capable of absorbing UV-A rays have been reported in the cosmetic field, one particularly useful sunscreen being tert-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (also known as avobenzone and marketed as 1789). Various UV-B sunscreens are used in personal care compositions to protect against UV-B radiation. Many cosmetic manufacturers prefer to include both UV-A and UV-B sunscreens in photoprotective compositions to provide protection against the entire UV radiation range.
[0004] One such patent of the applicant is disclosed as EP2575748B1, which discloses a composition providing high SPF. The publication only discloses the use of certain oil-soluble sunscreens. With the emergence of many water-soluble sunscreens, the inventors have experimented with the combination of oil-soluble and water-soluble sunscreens to provide better SPF. They also want to provide it through a gel-type composition, which is generally loved by many consumers because it gives a light, less greasy and comfortable skin feeling when such a composition is applied to the skin. The inventors found during the provision of high SPF benefits by a composition comprising oil-soluble and water-soluble sunscreens that when a water-soluble sunscreen (usually added in the form of a salt) is included, it is difficult to stabilize them in such a gel composition, i.e., it is difficult to provide a stable gel composition comprising a water-soluble sunscreen. Therefore, the inventors must not only stabilize the water-soluble sunscreen while ensuring the required high SPF, but also provide the required tactile sensory properties, such as low oiliness and good spreadability. Through further extensive experimentation, the present inventors have determined that they can ensure the desired high SPF and desired sunscreen stability by including therein selected water phase thickeners, certain types of oil phase thickeners, and specific moisturizers.
[0005] However, the composition thus prepared is considered to have poor sensory properties. Good sensory properties mean that the composition gives a good moisturizing feel to the skin without being too greasy. In other words, consumers want a moisturizing feel to the skin while enjoying a matte (non-oily) appearance. In addition, they also expect other attributes such as easy spreading and a mild, gentle and non-sticky feel on the skin. The inventors can ensure that the above-mentioned desired sensory properties can be provided by including specific sensory modifiers therein. The high SPF thus provided ensures protection of the skin from darkening and reduces blemishes and dark spots.
[0006] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a photoprotective personal care composition in gel form, comprising oil-soluble and water-soluble sunscreens, which not only has a high SPF but also provides a light, non-oily and non-sticky feel when applied to the skin. Another object of the present invention is to provide such a photoprotective personal care composition, which is a stable gel composition. Summary of the invention
[0007] A first aspect of the present invention relates to a high SPF gel composition comprising:
[0008] (i) 0.1 to 25% by weight of an oil-soluble sunscreen;
[0009] (ii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble sunscreen;
[0010] (iii) 0.25 to 5 wt. % of an aqueous phase thickener selected from one or both of a polysaccharide gum and a synthetic polymer selected from ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer;
[0011] (iv) 0.5 to 10% of an oil phase thickener selected from one or more of: esters of C18 to C36 fatty acids, esters of C8 to C16 fatty acids; polymeric oil phase thickeners and particles selected from organomodified clays, hydrophobically modified fumed silica and aerogels,
[0012] (v) 0.5 to 15% by weight of a humectant selected from glycerol or glycol; and
[0013] (vi) 0.5 to 10 wt % of a sensory modifier selected from one or more of modified starch, silica microspheres, and a polymer of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer and silica.
[0014] Another aspect of the invention relates to a method of providing photoprotection having a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30 comprising the step of applying the composition of the first aspect to a desired skin surface. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0016] By reading the following detailed description and the appended claims, these and other aspects, features and advantages will become clear to those of ordinary skill in the art. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be used in any other aspect of the present invention. The word "comprising" is intended to mean "including", but not necessarily "consisting of" or "consisting of". In other words, the steps or options listed do not have to be exhaustive. It should be noted that the examples given in the following description are intended to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention to those examples themselves. Similarly, unless otherwise indicated, all percentages are weight / weight percentages. Except in the operating examples and comparative examples or where otherwise clearly indicated, all numbers representing the amount of material or reaction conditions, the physical properties of the material and / or the use in this specification and claims should be understood to be modified by the word "about". The numerical range represented by the format "x to y" should be understood to include x and y. When multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "x to y" for a particular feature, it should be understood that all ranges combining different endpoints are also covered.
[0017] The photoprotective composition of the present invention is meant for personal care or cosmetic purposes, and may also be referred to as a personal care composition or a cosmetic composition. "Personal care composition" as used herein is meant to include compositions for topical application to areas of human skin and / or hair exposed to sunlight. Such compositions can be divided into wash-free or wash-off types, and include any product applied to the human body for improving appearance, cleaning, odor control, or general aesthetics. The composition of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid or a gel. Non-limiting examples of such sunscreen compositions include wash-free skin products such as antiperspirants, deodorants, sunscreen gels, and wash-off shampoos, conditioners, facial cleansers, and shower gels. The composition of the present invention is preferably a wash-free composition.
[0018] As used herein, "skin" is meant to include the skin on the face and body (e.g., neck, chest, back, arms, underarms, hands, legs and scalp), especially those parts thereof exposed to the sun. The compositions of the present invention are also relevant for use on any other human keratinous substrate other than the skin, such as hair, where the product can be formulated with the specific purpose of improving photoprotection.
[0019] The composition according to the invention comprises 0.1 to 25% by weight of an oil-soluble sunscreen. By oil-soluble is meant those organic sunscreens which have a solubility in water of less than 10 g / l, preferably less than 5 g / l, more preferably less than 2 g / l. The oil-soluble sunscreens may be of the UV-B type or of the UV-A type. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, of an oil-soluble UVB sunscreen. It is also preferred that the composition according to the invention comprises 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 4% by weight, of an oil-soluble UVA sunscreen.
[0020] When an oil-soluble UVB sunscreen is included, it is preferably one or more of the following: Octyl salicylate ( OS), 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate, ethylhexyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate (also known as octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate or octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, 3-benzylidene camphor, cinoxate, diethylhexyl butyramido triazone, p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), dihydroxypropyl PABA ethyl ester, dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolinium propionate ethylhexyl, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl trimethoxycinnamate trisiloxane, isopropyl benzyl salicylate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, PEG-25 PABA and dimethyl PABA amyl ester. More preferably, the oil-soluble UVB sunscreen is selected from one or more of octyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-acrylate and octyl methoxycinnamate.
[0021] Some well-known brands that sell the above sunscreens include Neo Neo AV, Neo OS, and MCX. Oil-soluble UV-B sunscreens have a lambda of 280 to 320 nm. 最大 .
[0022] The composition of the present invention may include an organic oil-soluble UVA sunscreen. When included, it is selected from one or more of dibenzoylmethane compounds, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and methyl anthranilate. Dibenzoylmethane compounds are the most preferred oil-soluble UVA sunscreens. Suitable dibenzoylmethane compounds are selected from one or more of the following: tert-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane and 2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. The most preferred dibenzoylmethane compound is tert-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. Commercially available as Parsol 1789.
[0023] The composition of the present invention may comprise organic oil-soluble UVB and organic UVA sunscreens. Alternatively, there are certain oil-soluble sunscreens having both UVA and UVB screening efficacy. It is selected from one or more of the following: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, benzophenone and derivatives thereof. The most preferred one is bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine commercially available as Tinosorb S.
[0024] The compositions of the present invention comprise from 0.1 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble sunscreen.
[0025] By water-soluble sunscreens, whether of the UVA or UVB type, is meant sunscreens whose solubility in water at 25° C. is higher than 10 g / l, preferably higher than 50 g / l.
[0026] Preferred water-soluble UVB sunscreens for use in the present invention are phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), benzophenone-4 or benzylidene camphorsulfonic acid, preferably PBSA. PBSA is also known as Ensulizole and is commercially available as Eusolex 232 (from Merck KGaA). PBSA can also be obtained under the brand names Neo Heliopan Hydro (from Symrise), Parsol HS (from DSM) and Sunsafe ES (from Uniproma). There are some water-soluble sunscreens that have both UVA and UVB shielding effects. Such sunscreens provide UVA and UVB protection, such as benzophenone-4 (sold as Sulisobenzone). However, for the purposes of the present invention, benzophenone-4 can be included as a water-soluble UV-B sunscreen.
[0027] Preferred UVA sunscreens for use in the present invention are one or more of disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate (Neohelipan AP) or terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (TDSA). Of these, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate is preferred, which is also known as bisdisulizoledisodium. This can be commercially available as Neo heliopan AP (from Symrise Shanghai Ltd) or Sunsafe DPDT (from Uniproma).
[0028] Terephthalic acid (TDSA) is also known as Ecamsule. This is commercially available as Mexoryl SX (US 4585597) from L'Oreal or Sunsafe TDSA (from Uniproma). It can be used as the parent acid or its salt to provide the desired benefit.
[0029] The composition preferably comprises 0.1 to 5 wt %, more preferably 1 to 4 wt % of a water-soluble sunscreen. Preferably, the composition comprises UVA and UVB water-soluble sunscreens. Most preferably, it comprises one or both of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
[0030] Water-soluble sunscreens for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention are generally commercially available in acid form. When included in the composition in acid form (pre-neutralized form), i.e., with a sulfonic acid group (-SO3H), the composition further comprises a neutralizing agent to convert the acid form into a salt form in which it is known to be active as a sunscreen, except for Mexoryl SX, which can act as a sunscreen both with and without neutralization. When included, the neutralizing agent is preferably 0.05% to 4% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.2% to 2% by weight. The neutralizing agent is preferably an inorganic base or an organic base. The organic base is preferably an amine, such as triethanolamine or diethanolamine. The inventors have observed that inorganic bases are particularly preferred. Alkali metal hydroxides are preferred. The most preferred metal hydroxides for inclusion in the compositions of the present invention as neutralizing agents are sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. It is a particularly challenging problem to stabilize the salt form of a water-soluble sunscreen in a gel composition and still obtain the desired SPF enhancement and the desired tactile sensory properties. The present inventors have addressed this by specifically selecting features (iii) to (vi) as claimed herein, namely, a water phase thickener, an oil phase thickener, a humectant and a sensory modifier.
[0031] The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase thickener. The aqueous phase thickener may be selected from one or more of (i) a polysaccharide gum and (ii) a synthetic polymer selected from (a) ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, and (b) ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer. Of the above, the polysaccharide gum is most preferred. Preferred polysaccharide gums for inclusion in the composition of the present invention are one or more of xanthan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum, tara gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, sclerotium gum, carrageenan, and locust bean gum. The most preferred polysaccharide gum is xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is available from CP Kelco supplier as Keltrol CG-V. The synthetic polymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer is commercially available as Aristoflex AVC, and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer is commercially available as Aristoflex HMB. In a particularly preferred aspect of the invention, polysaccharide gums such as xanthan gum and both the synthetic polymers Aristoflex AVC and Aristoflex HMB may be included. The aqueous phase thickener comprises 0.25 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 4%, most preferably 1 to 3% by weight of the composition.
[0032] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more oil phase thickeners selected from the following: esters of C18 to C36 fatty acids, esters of C8 to C16 fatty acids; polymer oil phase thickeners and particles selected from organic modified clays, hydrophobically modified fumed silica and aerogels. Among these, esters of C18 to C36 fatty acids are most preferred.
[0033] Suitable commercially available esters of C18 to C36 fatty acids are C18-36 acid triglyceride (Syncrowax HGLC), C18-36 acid ethylene glycol ester (Syncrowax-ERLC), tribehenin (Syncrowak-HRC), hydroxystearin (Naturechem GMHS), tri(12-hydroxystearin)glyceride (Thixcin R), C16-18 triglyceride, C16-24 triglyceride (Cremeol HF-62-SPC). A particularly preferred oil phase thickener for use in the compositions of the present invention is available from Croda Personal Care as Syncrowax HGLC. It has a melting point in the range of 60-70°C, which also acts as a structure aid, crystallinity modifier and emulsion stabilizer.
[0034] An example of an ester of C8-C16 fatty acids is hydrogenated cocoglyceryl (Softisan 100).
[0035] Polymeric oil thickeners that may be included are sorbitol / sebacic acid copolymer behenate (Syncrowax ORM), tribehenin (and) sorbitol / sebacic acid copolymer behenate (Syncrowax OSW), dextrin palmitate (dextrin palmitate LDXP, HDXP and HDXP-KL), amide terminated polyamides (OleoCraft LP-20, MP-30, HP-31 and MP-32), ester terminated polyamides (Uniclear 100VG and C75V), stearoyl inulin (Rheopearl ISK2), poly(C10-30 alkyl acrylate) (Intellimer IPA 13-6 polymer), poly(C10-30 alkyl acrylate-MP 48C) (Intellimer IPA 13-1 polymer), and PVP (FlexiThix TM Thickener).
[0036] The particles acting as the oil phase thickener may be selected from one or more of the following: organically modified clays such as cationic surfactants containing sepiolite, montmorillonite, hectorite or bentonite, fumed silica, hydrophobically modified fumed silica, and aerogels such as Dow Corning VM-2270 aerogel fine particles, R 972(Silica Silyate-Evonik).
[0037] Preferably the composition comprises from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.8% to 5%, even more preferably from 1% to about 3% by weight of the oil phase thickener.
[0038] The composition of the present invention comprises a humectant selected from a glycol or glycerol. The glycol is preferably selected from one or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol. The humectant for use in the present invention is one or both of glycerol and caprylyl glycol. The composition comprises 0.5 to 15%, preferably 1 to 10%, more preferably 1 to 8% of the humectant by weight of the composition.
[0039] The composition comprises one or more sensory modifiers selected from the group consisting of:
[0040] - modified starch,
[0041] - silica microspheres, and
[0042] -Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and silica.
[0043] Among these, one or both of silica microspheres and the polymer are most preferably contained in the composition.
[0044] The polymer used as sensory modifier is preferably dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) silica. Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) silica is available from Dow Corning as DOWSIL TM 9701 cosmetic powder and is also known as DC 9701. Silica microspheres are available from Kobo as MSS-500 / 3H.
[0045] A preferred modified starch is aluminum or sodium starch octenyl succinate, more preferably aluminum starch octenyl succinate. Aluminum starch octenyl succinate is a chemically modified starch, in particular a starch that has undergone esterification. Such aluminum starch octenyl succinate is available from suppliers such as Akzo Nobel or Nouryon under the name Dry Pure and Dry PC. Various other suppliers sell it under their own brand names. In cosmetics and personal care products, aluminum starch octenyl succinate is used to formulate creams, powders, foundations and underarm deodorants. It is used as a thickener and binder, anti-caking agent and oil absorbent. The composition may contain aluminum starch octenyl succinate further compounded with other ingredients to provide other benefits. For example, the ingredients with the INCI name of Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate may be included. HFB is obtained from Nouryon. The natural content is 81% and suggested applications include moisture barrier products, oil control products, anhydrous products, antiperspirant sticks, sunscreens and dry shampoos for a variety of benefits including oil absorption, syneresis relief and fragrance retention. The literature for the ingredient from Nouryon discloses that it is cross-linked aluminum starch octenylsuccinate surface treated with an acrylate copolymer and magnesium carbonate.
[0046] The sensory modifier is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 10%, preferably 1 to 8%, more preferably 1 to 5%, by weight of the composition. Among these, when the polymer is contained, it is preferably 0.2 to 3%, when the silica microsphere is contained, it is 0.2 to 3%, and when the modified starch is contained, it is 0.5 to 4%, by weight of the composition.
[0047] The composition of the present invention is preferably substantially free of emulsifiers. Emulsifiers are typically surfactants or surface-active agents. Preferably, substantially free of emulsifiers means comprising less than or equal to 2 wt%, more preferably less than 2 wt%, even more preferably less than 1.5 wt%, further more preferably less than 1 wt%, most preferably less than 0.5 wt% emulsifier, ideally emulsifiers are not present in the composition of the present invention. Alternatively, the composition preferably comprises 0 to 2 wt%, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5 wt%, even more preferably 0.25 to 1 wt%, still more preferably 0.5 to 0.75 wt% emulsifier.
[0048] It should be understood that terms such as "substantially free of emulsifiers" and "emulsifier-free" can be used interchangeably and they mean the same thing.
[0049] Therefore, the composition is preferably an emulsifier-free gel composition, which comprises:
[0050] (i) 0.1 to 25% by weight of an oil-soluble sunscreen;
[0051] (ii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble sunscreen;
[0052] (iii) 0.25 to 5 wt. % of an aqueous phase thickener selected from one or both of a polysaccharide gum and a synthetic polymer selected from ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer;
[0053] (iv) 0.5 to 10% of an oil phase thickener selected from one or more of: esters of C18 to C36 fatty acids, esters of C8 to C16 fatty acids; polymeric oil phase thickeners, and particles selected from organomodified clays, hydrophobically modified fumed silica, and aerogels,
[0054] (v) 0.5 to 15% by weight of a humectant selected from glycerol or glycol; and
[0055] (vi) 0.5 to 10 wt % of a sensory modifier selected from one or more of modified starch, silica microspheres, and a polymer of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer and silica.
[0056] Water is generally included in the gel composition as a cosmetically acceptable base. Based on the weight of the composition, 10 to 70%, preferably 20 to 70%, and more preferably 20 to 65% of water may be included.
[0057] Preferably, the composition further comprises niacinamide.Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1 to 10 wt%, more preferably 1 to 8 wt%, even more preferably 2 to 7 wt%, further more preferably 3 to 5 wt% niacinamide.
[0058] In addition to the previously disclosed ingredients, the composition can and preferably includes other ingredients to perform one or more functions of the present invention, and also includes a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Emollient materials can serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These can be in the form of silicone oils, natural or synthetic esters and hydrocarbons. By composition weight, the amount of lubricant can be any value between 0.1 and 25%, preferably 1 to 10%. Silicone oils can be divided into volatile and non-volatile categories. As used herein, the term "volatile" refers to those materials with a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably selected from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing 3 to 9, preferably 5 to 6 silicon atoms.
[0059] Colorants, opacifiers and abrasives may also be included in the composition of the present invention. Each of these materials may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 3%, by weight of the composition.
[0060] The compositions of the present invention provide an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) of preferably at least 30, more preferably at least 40, even more preferably at least 50.
[0061] Methods of using the composition
[0062] The present invention also provides a method of photoprotection with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the desired skin surface. The composition according to the present invention is primarily intended as a product for topical application to human skin, in particular as an agent for protection against solar radiation, and for preventing or reducing the appearance of pigmentation, wrinkles or aged skin or age spots. Preferably, the method is cosmetic / non-therapeutic.
[0063] In use, a small amount of the composition, for example 1 to 5 ml, is applied to an exposed area of the skin from a suitable container or applicator and then spread on and / or rubbed into the skin using the hands or fingers or a suitable device if necessary.
[0064] Each subject's personal sun protection factor (SPF) was defined as the energy (dose, in J / m 2 The ratio of the amount of energy required to produce minimal erythema on untreated skin is calculated as follows:
[0065] SPF= MED Protected Skin
[0066] MED unprotected control site
[0067] The SPF of the product was calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of the individual SPF values of all subjects.
[0068] Although the present invention has been summarized above, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that modifications, variations and changes may be made without departing from the scope and spirit of the present invention as described and claimed herein. The present invention will now be further illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0069] Example
[0070] Examples A, 1-3: Compositions within and outside the scope of the present invention and their role in providing SPF, UVAPF and sensory properties
[0071] Briefly, the compositions shown in the following table were prepared as follows:
[0072] Glycerin, disodium EDTA, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), sodium hydroxide (qs to pH 7) were added to the water removed from the main container. The mixture was stirred until the aqueous phase became clear and heated to 70°C. In a separate beaker, an oil phase was prepared containing an oil phase thickener (where applicable), caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate ( MCX) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane ( 1789) and heated to 70°C. Aristoflex AVC and Aristoflex HMB are added to the main container under homogenization. The aqueous phase is turned into a transparent gel. Thereafter, the oil phase is added to the main container under homogenization at 3500rpm. The mixture is homogenized for 10 minutes, followed by the addition of xanthan gum pre-dispersed in 5mL of water. DC 245 and, where applicable, MSS 500 / 3H are mixed and added to the main container and mixed for 10 minutes. Where applicable, Dowsil 9701 is added to the main container and mixing is continued. Once the main container reaches below 40°C, ethanol, fragrance, phenoxyethanol are added to the main container; and mixed for 10 minutes. When the formulation reaches room temperature and a uniform structure, it is removed from the homogenizer and stored in a container.
[0073] Table 1 shows the various compositions in gel form that were prepared.
[0074] Table-1
[0075]
[0076] # MSS-500 / 3H is a silica microsphere available from Kobo, which acts as a sensory modifier in the present invention.
[0077] The in vitro SPF and UVAPF values of the above samples were measured using the following procedure:
[0078] Thin film transmittance measurements were performed using a Labsphere UV transmittance analyzer. 70 x 70 mm PMMA plates with a roughness of ~6 μm from GmbH & Co. The percent transmittance of various compositions was measured using the procedure described below. 2 mg / cm 2 The sample is applied to the PMMA plate, evenly distributed using a syringe, and spread evenly. The drying time of the PMMA plate is 30 minutes. After the drying time, the sample plate is exposed to UV light and the transmittance scan is recorded. The scan gives the transmittance as a function of the wavelength (290-400nm) of a given sample. For a single plate, six to nine different points were scanned. The same operation was repeated for 2 or 3 plates. Therefore, the reported data is the average of 12-18 readings. A reference transmittance scan is obtained using a blank plate, and there is no sample on the PMMA plate on which glycerol is spread. The transmittance value is used to derive the SPF value using the UV-2000s application provided by the instrument.
[0079] At time zero (0 minute line), the percent transmittance (and therefore SPF) was measured as the in vitro SPF. The same panels were exposed to solar simulated light and the percent transmittance was measured at specified time intervals of 0 and 60 minutes. The average absorbance at 310 and 355 nm was recorded to measure the % UVB and UVA photostability, respectively. A solar simulator (Atlas kW system) was used with a 550W m -2 The irradiance is 200 nm, producing UV at a distance of about 20 cm.
[0080] The SPF and UVAPF values are summarized in Table-2 below:
[0081] Table 2:
[0082] Example A Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 External SPF 64.4 101.6 101.2 107.2 Standard Deviation 22.8 26.7 35.5 17.8 In vitro UVAPF 21.2 32.8 38.7 40.1 Standard Deviation 6.5 8.1 9.7 6.3
[0083] The data in Table-2 above show that the composition outside the scope of the present invention (Example-A) not comprising sensory modifiers provided much lower SPF and UVAPF values compared to the compositions within the scope of the present invention comprising different combinations of sensory modifiers in different amounts (Examples 1 to 3).
[0084] Differences in sensory benefits using different compositions
[0085] The differences in the sensory benefits provided by the compositions according to the invention (Examples 1 to 3) were investigated using the following procedure:
[0086] The study was conducted on a total of 50 female subjects. They participated in a product usage study which evaluated the tactile properties of the test products. Each product was evaluated for five days. The study adopted a sequential unit design. Numerical feedback was collected using a structured questionnaire to understand product preferences such as even skin tone, brighter / fairer skin, radiant look, sweat relief, comfort and freshness, facial feel after application (oily / sticky / greasy), sunscreen matte feel, spreadability, quick absorption, lightweight feel, moisturizing, sticky feel, peeling, etc.
[0087] Each panelist evaluated the samples for five days. The following Table-3 summarizes the overall preferences for the samples:
[0088] Table 3:
[0089] product Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 70 66 50
[0090] The data in Table-3 above show that the composition of Example 1 is most preferred, followed by Example 2 and then Example 3.
[0091] The data show that the composition according to Example 1 with a higher amount (2%) of oil phase thickener (Syncrowax HGLC) and sensory modifiers such as 1.5% silica microspheres (MSS-500 / 3H) and 1% polymer (DC 9701) is superior to Example 2 with a lower amount (1%) of oil phase thickener, the same amount of silica microspheres and a higher amount (2%) of polymer. Example 3, which additionally has starch-based sensory modifiers (Natrasorb HFB and Dry Flo pure), is the least preferred compared to Example 1.
[0092] In terms of qualitative attributes, all samples (Examples 1 to 3) were highly appreciated for spreadability, rapid absorption, light feel and moisturizing properties.
[0093] Examples 1 and 2 were significantly superior to Example 3 in terms of even skin tone, brighter skin, radiance, sweating, and comfort and freshness.
[0094] Example 1 was significantly superior to Example 3 and comparable to Example 2 in facial feel after application (oily / sticky / greasy), sun tan protection, duration, sun protection, ultra-matte feel, and oil-free appearance.
[0095] In summary, the data show that all three examples according to the present invention (Examples 1 to 3) are significantly better than the control sample in terms of sun protection. In the sensory field, Example 1 is the most preferred, followed by Example 2 and Example 3.
[0096] Further, Example B shown in the following Table 4 was prepared, and the SPF and UVAPF were measured as described above.
[0097] Table 4:
[0098] Ingredients (weight %) Example B (weight %) glycerin 7 Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-V) 0.4 Ensulizole (Parsol HS) 3 10% sodium hydroxide solution 5.3 Aristoflex AVC 1 Aristoflex HMB 0.3 Syncrowax HGLC - Parsol 1789 3 Eusolex OS 5 Octocrylene 6 Parsol MCX 1.5 MSS-500 / 3H 1.5 DC 9701 2 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 DC 245 2.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Ethanol 5 spices 0.35 water Up to 100
[0099] The obtained SPF and UVAPF values are summarized below in Table 5:
[0100] Table 5:
[0101] Example B External SPF 67.3 Standard Deviation 9.4 UVAPF 23.8 Standard Deviation 1.3 Stability at 45°C: 3 weeks Unstable Sensory Gel texture of oil leak
[0102] The data in Table 5 above show that Example B provides much lower SPF and UVAPF than the compositions according to the invention containing oil phase thickeners (Examples 1 to 3) when no oil phase thickener is present. It also results in an unstable composition as the composition exhibits phase separation after incubation at 45°C for 3 weeks.
[0103] Furthermore, compositions according to the present invention (Examples 4 and 5) and a comparative composition (Example C) as shown in Table 6 below were prepared; and the SPF, UVAPF, and stability of these compositions were measured.
[0104] Table 6:
[0105]
[0106] Table 7:
[0107] Example 4 Example 5 Example C SPF Data 109.2 91.5 104.1 Standard Deviation 3.4 3.3 3.6 UVAPF 35 27.4 31.8 Standard Deviation 5.9 0.7 1.6 Stability at 45°C: 3 weeks Stablize Stablize Unstable
[0108] The data in Table 7 above show that when an oil phase thickener according to the present invention, i.e., an ester of C18 to C36 fatty acids (Syncrowax HGLC), is used, a stable gel composition providing high SPF and UVAPF is obtained (Example 4). The data further show that when another type of oil phase thickener according to the present invention, i.e., a polymeric oil phase plasticizer (Sorbitol / Sebacic Acid Copolymer Behenate; can be used) is used. ORM (Example 5)), high SPF and UVAPF were obtained in a stable gel composition. Finally, the data also show that when using oil phase thickeners not in accordance with the present invention, namely carnauba wax and rice bran wax (such as Sunhancer 100 shown in Example D), high SPF and UVAPF were obtained in a stable gel composition. TM Eco SPF Booster), it results in an unstable composition.
Claims
1. A high SPF gel composition comprising: (i) 0.1 to 25% by weight of an oil-soluble sunscreen agent, (ii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble sunscreen; (iii) 0.25 to 5 wt.% of an aqueous phase thickener selected from one or two of the following: a polysaccharide gum and a synthetic polymer selected from ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; (iv) 0.5 to 10% of an oil phase thickener selected from one or more of the following: esters of C18 to C36 fatty acids, esters of C8 to C16 fatty acids, polymeric oil phase thickeners, and particles selected from organomodified clays, hydrophobically modified fumed silica, and aerogels; (v) 0.5 to 15% by weight of a humectant selected from glycerol or glycol; and (vi) 0.5 to 10 wt % of a sensory modifier, wherein the sensory modifier is selected from one or more of the following: modified starch, silica microspheres, and a polymer of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and silica.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil-soluble sunscreen is selected from a UV-B sunscreen or a UV-A sunscreen, the UV-B sunscreen is selected from one or more of octyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-acrylate, and octyl methoxycinnamate, and the UV-A sunscreen is selected from dibenzoylmethane compounds.
3. A composition according to claim 2 comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of an oil-soluble UVA sunscreen.
4. A composition according to claim 2 or 3 comprising 0.1 to 20% by weight of an oil-soluble UVB sunscreen.
5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-soluble sunscreen is selected from one or both of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polysaccharide gum is xanthan gum.
7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycol is selected from one or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sensory modifier is selected from one or both of silica microspheres and polymers of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and silica.
9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising 10 to 70% by weight of water.
10. A composition according to any preceding claim which is substantially free of emulsifiers.
11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition provides an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30.
12. A method of providing photoprotection having a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30 comprising the step of applying to a desired skin surface a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
Citation Information
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