Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant different from a saturated C14 to C22 fatty acid; and (iv) at least one saponifying agent, wherein the molar ratio of saponifying agent to structuring agent is at least 0.35. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, comprising applying said composition to a keratin material.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to compositions for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials. The present invention also relates to non-therapeutic methods for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials. Background of the Invention

[0003] The skin is the body's protective barrier. It protects the body's interior from physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).

[0004] Preparations specifically designed for the care and / or make-up of the skin and / or lips are continually being developed.

[0005] For example, efforts have been made to formulate compositions in the form of creams or lotions.

[0006] As a commercial product, it is desired that the product be stable over time.

[0007] It is particularly desirable that the commercial product has long-term stability, for example, the commercial product is stable even after storage at room temperature (eg, 25° C.) for 5 months.

[0008] However, for some emulsions, such as water-in-oil emulsions or oil-in-water emulsions, phase separation will readily occur and water seepage will occur.

[0009] There is thus still a need to formulate a composition for caring for and / or making up the skin which has long-term stability, for example even after storage at room temperature (eg 25° C.) for 5 months. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0011] The inventors have now found that it is possible to formulate such compositions which are stable even after storage for 5 months at room temperature (eg 25°C).

[0012] Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising:

[0013] (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

[0014] (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0015] (iii) at least one surfactant other than a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; and

[0016] (iv) at least one saponifying agent,

[0017] The molar ratio of saponifier to structurant is at least 0.35.

[0018] The composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, the composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase.

[0019] The present inventors have found that the composition of the present invention has a lamellar texture and is stable at room temperature (eg 25°C) for at least 5 months.

[0020] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0021] Other advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

[0022] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0023] Embodiments of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0024] Figure 1 A polarized light microscope image of the composition obtained in Inventive Example 1 is shown. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0026] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as those commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs. When the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs, the definition described in this article shall apply.

[0027] In the following text and unless otherwise stated, the boundaries of the numerical ranges are included in the range, especially in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "... to ...".

[0028] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0029] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted as covering all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the specifically mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of ...").

[0030] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing quantities of ingredients and the like used in the specification and claims should be understood as modified by the term “about.” Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that can be varied as required depending on the desired purpose.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. The facial skin is most particularly contemplated according to the present invention.

[0032] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages in the present invention are by weight.

[0033] According to a first aspect, the invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising:

[0034] (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

[0035] (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0036] (iii) at least one surfactant other than a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; and

[0037] (iv) at least one saponifying agent,

[0038] The molar ratio of saponifier to structurant is at least 0.35.

[0039] Structuring agent

[0040] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one structuring agent chosen from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids.

[0041] As examples of saturated C14-C22 fatty acids, mention may be made of myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, cetearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0042] Preferably, the structurant is selected from saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0043] More preferably, the structurant is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0044] Particularly preferably, the structurant is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and combinations thereof.

[0045] Advantageously, the structuring agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1.3% to 10% by weight, most preferably from 1.3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0047] According to a first aspect, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0048] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is capable of swelling in water to form a microgel in the form of particles having a size of 50-400 μm.

[0049] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Suitable homopolymers for the composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylate and potassium polyacrylate. Preference is given to using sodium polyacrylate.

[0051] The acrylic acid homopolymer may advantageously be neutralized to a degree of from 5% to 80%.

[0052] As sodium polyacrylate which can be used according to the invention, there can be used the polyacrylates sold under the name Cosmedia by the company Cognis. Or by BASF under the name Those sold by EM under the trade designation Covacryl MV by Sensient or by Cognis under the trade name Products for sale.

[0053] Modified starches suitable for use in the composition according to the invention are especially chosen from those derived from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Among the modified starches, mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches (for example with hydroxymethyl urea derivatives or with octenylsuccinic anhydride or with epichlorohydrin), esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, refined starches, starches roasted in the presence of acids, or grafted starches (for example with sodium polyacrylate), coated starches (for example with amino acids) and / or mixtures thereof.

[0055] Among the modified starches particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of:

[0056] - sold under the names Structure XL and Structure Zea (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) by the company National Starch;

[0057] - starches sold under the names Sanfresh ST-100C, ST100MC, IM-300MC (INCI name Sodium Polyacrylate Grafted Starch) by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries; and

[0058] - mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Surfactants

[0062] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one surfactant different from a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0063] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from:

[0064] - mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0065] - Esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain;

[0066] - Sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylene derivatives;

[0067] - esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0068] - sucrose esters;

[0069] - ethers of sugars with C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as octyl / decyl glucoside;

[0070] - C14-C24 fatty alcohol;

[0071] - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as laureth-5 carboxylic acid;

[0072] - polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols containing 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as laureth-9;

[0073] - polyoxyalkylene derivatives of monoglycerides of fatty acids, such as PEG-20 triisostearate,

[0074] - Sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0075] - fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols; and

[0076] - mixtures thereof.

[0077] As (a) polyglycerol esters of one or more fatty acids, there may be mentioned products containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, such as polyglycerol monolaurate, oleate, myristate, caprylate or stearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol mono(iso)stearate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol dioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol dilaurate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol dimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol trimyristate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglycerol trioleate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl tricaprylate containing 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0078] Polyglycerol esters include polyglycerol esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, diisostearate triglyceride, monooleate diglyceride, monooleate tetraglyceride or mixtures thereof.

[0079] Monoglycerides include, but are not limited to, monoglycerides, preferably monoglycerides of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids, such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate or mixtures thereof.

[0080] As monoglycerides of fatty acids, there can be mentioned stearic acid glyceryl (glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate and / or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: stearyl glyceryl) or ricinoleic acid glyceryl or a mixture thereof, or as polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, there can be mentioned mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and polyoxyalkylene glycerol (mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids and polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated stearic acid glyceryl (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 stearic acid glyceryl (mono-, di-, tristearate and / or triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of monoglycerides of fatty acids include 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 triisostearate.

[0081] The surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as mono- or polyglycerol esters of C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; Sorbitol esters of C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 fatty acids or their polyoxyalkylene derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkyl glucose) esters of C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 fatty acids or their polyoxyalkylene derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugars and one or more C8-C24, preferably C12-C22 fatty alcohols; or mixtures thereof.

[0082] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as the product sold under the name ARLACEL 165 by CRODA containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate and the product sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt containing glyceryl stearate (mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate SE).

[0083] The sorbitan esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylened derivatives may be chosen from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids with alkoxylated sorbitans containing, for example, 20 to 100 EOs, such as sorbitan monostearate sold under the name Span 60 by the company ICI (CTFA name: Sorbitan Stearate), sorbitan monopalmitate sold under the name Span 40 by the company ICI (CTFA name: Sorbitan Palmitate), or sorbitan tristearate 20EO sold under the name Tween 65 by the company ICI (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65), polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85) or the compounds sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[0084] As esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose, mention may be made of glucose palmitate, alkyl glucose sesquistearate, such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitates, such as methyl glucose palmitate or ethyl glucose palmitate, methyl glucoside fatty esters, the diester of methyl glucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methyl glucoside and an oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the ester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); the mixture of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular the product sold under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkyl glucose, mention may be made, for example, of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methyl glucose, and in particular of polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL; polyethylene glycol ethers of a mixture of mono- and diesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), and in particular of the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and the product sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, or mixtures thereof.

[0086] As the sucrose ester, for example, sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate may be mentioned.

[0087] As the sugar ether, alkyl polyglucosides can be used, and for example, sugars and C8-C 24Ethers of fatty alcohols, including decyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic; octyl / decyl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or the product sold under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF; lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel; coco-glucoside, such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel; cetearyl glucoside, possibly mixed with cetearyl alcohol, for example sold under the names MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, TEGO-CAREC G90 by Goldschmidt and EMULGADE by Henkel KE3302; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic; cocoyl ethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (35 / 65) sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic; or mixtures thereof.

[0088] As C14-C24 fatty alcohols, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignocerylic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Preferably, the fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol is an ester of polyethylene glycol containing 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, the fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol is selected from polyethylene glycol 20E monostearate or polyethylene glycol 100 monostearate (PEG-100 stearate).

[0090] Most preferably, the surfactant is selected from mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, ethers of sugars and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Advantageously, the surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Advantageously, the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Saponifier

[0094] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saponifying agent.

[0095] Saponifying agents can be used to react with saturated C14-C22 fatty acids to produce salts.

[0096] The saponifying agent may be, for example, an inorganic base such as an alkali metal hydroxide (e.g., sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), an alkaline earth metal hydroxide (e.g., magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or an organic base such as monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine and arginine.

[0097] Mention may also be made of sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate and potassium bicarbonate.

[0098] Preferably, the saponifying agent is selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and combinations thereof.

[0099] Advantageously, the saponifier is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Advantageously, the molar ratio of saponifier to structurant selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids is from 0.35 to 1, preferably from 0.35 to 0.8, more preferably from 0.35 to 0.6.

[0101] It was found that with the molar ratios of saponifier to structurant selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids specified in the present application, the composition has long term stability and can be stable even after storage at room temperature for at least 5 months.

[0102] Water Phase

[0103] As oil-in-water emulsions, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise a continuous aqueous phase.

[0104] The aqueous phase comprises water.

[0105] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25° C.), such as glycerol and a glycol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, octanediol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 35% to 90% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Fat phase

[0108] As oil-in-water emulsions, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one dispersed fatty phase.

[0109] The fatty phase comprises at least one oil.

[0110] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0111] The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" refers to a compound that can remain on keratin materials for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and that has a specific viscosity of less than 10 -3 A non-volatile oil may also be defined as an oil having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2 .

[0112] These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0113] The oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils or fluorinated oils.

[0114] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil which is essentially formed or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally O and N atoms, and which does not contain Si and F heteroatoms. Such oils may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0115] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially containing Si-O groups.

[0116] The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0117] Preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, for example ester oils, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, myristyl myristate, and silicone oils, such as dimethicone.

[0118] The fatty phase may also include non-oil fatty materials, such as butter and waxes, such as shea butter, white wax and beeswax, to build texture and deliver a suitable skin finish.

[0119] Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 8% to 35% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0120] Cosmetic Active Ingredients

[0121] Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise a cosmetically active ingredient.

[0122] As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and derivatives (particularly esters) of the said vitamins and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; C-glycosides such as hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; humectants such as sodium hyaluronate and acetylated sodium hyaluronate, agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] Based on the final use of the composition according to the invention, the skilled person can easily adjust the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0124] Additional adjuvants or additives

[0125] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, preservatives (eg chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH adjusters and mixtures thereof.

[0126] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0127] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0128] (i.3 to 6 wt. % of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids;

[0129] (ii) 0.3% to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches, and mixtures thereof;

[0130] (iii) 0.8 to 12 wt% of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, ethers of sugars and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, C14-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and

[0131] (iv) 0.15 wt % to 0.6 wt % of at least one saponifying agent selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and combinations thereof,

[0132] The molar ratio of the saponifier to the structurant is 0.35 to 0.6.

[0133] Galenic dosage forms and methods

[0134] The compositions of the present invention are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions.

[0135] The composition according to the invention has a lamellar texture.

[0136] The term "lamellar texture" refers to a liquid crystal structure, or a swollen or non-swollen crystalline lamellar hydrate phase with planar symmetry, comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium.

[0137] The composition of the invention may, for example, be a cream.

[0138] The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, for example, it can be used as a foundation cream, hand cream, body cream, etc.

[0139] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0140] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention but are not intended to be limiting. Example

[0141] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0142] Table 1

[0143]

[0144]

[0145] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1

[0146] The compositions of Inventive Examples (IE.) 1-3 and Comparative Example (CE.) 1 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in weight % of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0147] Table 2

[0148]

[0149]

[0150] Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 1) : Contains 50 wt% glyceryl stearate and 50 wt% PEG-100 stearate.

[0151] Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside 2) : Contains 55% by weight of arachidyl alcohol, 30% by weight of behenyl alcohol and 15% by weight of arachidyl glucoside.

[0152] Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol 3) It is hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in water and propylene glycol at a content of 70% by weight relative to the total weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, water and propylene glycol.

[0153] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0154] The composition of Comparative Example 1 comprises potassium hydroxide and stearic acid, and the molar ratio of potassium hydroxide to stearic acid is 0.19.

[0155] Preparation process:

[0156] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

[0157] 1. Weigh the ingredients of phase A into a container and mix to obtain a transparent mixture, then stir at 75°C at a stirring rate of 500 rpm until a light yellow transparent liquid is obtained;

[0158] 2. Heat the phase B premix at 85°C, then add it to the pale yellow transparent liquid at 75°C with a stirring rate of 1500 rpm and mix for 10 minutes to obtain a white emulsion;

[0159] 3. Add Phase C premix at 75°C with a stirring rate of 1500 rpm to obtain a white emulsion;

[0160] 4. Add phase D at 70°C with a stirring rate of 1500 rpm to obtain a white cream, and then cool to room temperature with stirring to obtain a composition. ;

[0161] evaluate

[0162] Layered texture

[0163] Whether or not a layered texture was formed was evaluated as follows.

[0164] The compositions were observed using a Leica DLMB microscope under 90° crossed polarized light and micrographs were taken.

[0165] Figure 1 A polarized light microscope image of the composition obtained in Inventive Example 1 is shown.

[0166] Similar photographs were obtained for the composition of Inventive Example 2-3 (IE.2-3).

[0167] It can be seen that a layered texture is formed in the composition of Inventive Examples 1-3 (IE.1-3).

[0168] Similar photographs were obtained for the composition of Comparative Example 1 (CE.1).

[0169] stability

[0170] Stability was evaluated as follows.

[0171] The appearance of each composition prepared above was observed immediately after preparation at room temperature (25° C.), and after storage at 25° C. for 2 months and 5 months.

[0172] If there is water exudation immediately at room temperature (25°C) after preparation of the composition, after storage at 25°C for 2 months, or after 5 months, the composition is unstable, and if there is no water exudation immediately at room temperature (25°C) after preparation of the composition, after storage at 25°C for 2 months, or after 5 months, the composition has excellent stability.

[0173] The results of the lamellar texture and stability of each composition prepared above are summarized in Table 3.

[0174] Table 3

[0175]

[0176] T0*: immediately after preparation of the composition to be tested.

[0177] T2M**: After 2 months storage at room temperature.

[0178] T5M**: After 5 months storage at room temperature.

[0179] As can be seen from Table 3, the compositions of Inventive Examples 1-3 have a layered texture and are stable at room temperature for at least 5 months.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant other than a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (iv) at least one saponifying agent, The molar ratio of the saponifier to the structurant is at least 0.

35.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the structurant is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids, preferably, the structurant is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and combinations thereof.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the structuring agent is present in an amount of 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1.3% to 10% by weight, most preferably 1.3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the surfactant is selected from: - mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids or their ethoxylated derivatives; - Esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain; - Sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylene derivatives; - esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose or their ethoxylated derivatives; - sucrose esters; - ethers of sugars with C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as octyl / decyl glucoside; - C14-C24 fatty alcohol; - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as laureth-5 carboxylic acid; - polyoxyethylated fatty alcohols containing 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as laureth-9; - polyoxyalkylene derivatives of monoglycerides of fatty acids, such as PEG-20 triisostearate, - Sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate; - fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols; and - mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount of 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.4% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the saponifying agent is selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and combinations thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the saponifier is present in an amount of 0.05 to 2 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 0.8 wt%, more preferably 0.15 to 0.6 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the molar ratio of the saponifier to the structurant selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids is from 0.35 to 1, preferably from 0.35 to 0.8, more preferably from 0.35 to 0.

6.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises a cosmetic active ingredient.

13. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 1.3 wt% to 6 wt% of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids; (ii) 0.3% to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches, and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.8 to 12 wt% of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, ethers of sugars and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, C14-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and (iv) 0.15 wt % to 0.6 wt % of at least one saponifying agent selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine, and combinations thereof.

14. Non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying to keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

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