Cosmetic use of partially or fully hydrogenated polyfarnesene and method for cosmetic treatment of hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) for preventing and / or slowing the appearance of an unpleasant effect of human hair after exposure to strong heat, said composition (C) comprising, for 100% by weight thereof:-from 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly (farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 120,000 g / mol, said poly (farnesene) polymer is partially or wholly hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and-10% to 90% by weight of a mixture (M) of hydrocarbons wherein at least 94% by weight of said hydrocarbons comprise 15 to 19 carbon atoms. The invention also relates to a method for drying and shaping hair using the above composition.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. More specifically, it relates to the cosmetic treatment of hair. Technical Background

[0002] When drying or styling, hair is exposed to the heat of hair dryers, curling tongs or straighteners, or to the heat of heated combs or brushes. The thermal stress caused by this exposure can alter the polypeptide chains of the hair keratin, more particularly their stereochemical conformation and certain intermolecular bonds, which can have a negative impact on the internal structure of the hair. This negative impact can lead to both a poor appearance of the hair, such as a loss of gloss, and a poor sensory property of the hair, such as a loss of softness. In addition, external damage to the hair is sometimes observed, such as lifting of the cuticle and / or blistering of individual hair fibers, which can damage the hair surface due to increased friction between the hair fibers, thus weakening the hair and even leading to hair breakage.

[0003] Many compositions have been developed and marketed to protect hair from the negative effects associated with exposure of the hair to high temperatures. They form a coating on the hair fiber, thereby reducing the effects of heat on the internal fibers. These compositions include film-forming polymers, such as polymers polymerized from N-vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol or vinyl acetate.

[0004] International application publication number WO 2014 / 95210A1 discloses a composition comprising at least one nonionic polymer, such as a mixture of copolymers derived from N-vinyl pyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate, and at least one cationic polymer, such as polyquaternium-46. The presence of the cationic polymer can reduce or eliminate the stickiness caused by the film-forming polymer and limit the appearance of unsightly white residues on the hair.

[0005] As is well known, silicone derivatives are also multifunctional ingredients in hair care compositions, particularly for their ability to protect against heat damage, etc. For example, there is an "aminoglycol" type copolymer, such as bis(C13-C15 alkoxy)PG-aminodimethicone, sold under the name "Dow Corning 8500 Conditioner". Hair care compositions containing these ingredients are stable, easy to apply to the hair, and form a protective film to prevent the hair shaft from losing water due to heat.

[0006] Polymers from the siloxane family are also known to protect hair from heat. These polymers include, for example, polymers of the formula -[O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 ] n -Polydimethylsiloxane, commonly known as PDMS or dimethylsiloxane, or dimethylsiloxane alcohol, characterized by having the formula: HO-Si(CH 3 )2 -[O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 ] n -Si(CH 3 ) 2 -OH. Mixtures of dimethylsiloxanes and dimethiconols are widely used in hygiene preparations (especially shampoos) and hair care preparations.

[0007] Silicone compounds capable of protecting hair exposed to heat also include compounds of the aminosilane family, such as those described in French patent application publication number FR 3,038,513 A1 and US patent application publication number US 2018 / 161266 A2. For example, international application publication number WO 2021 / 260486 A1 discloses a composition comprising a film-forming polymer and a silane derivative of a hydrolyzed protein or peptide or amino acid, the polymer being selected from polysilicone-35, polysilicone-33, polysilicone-29, polysilicone-28, polysilicone-25, polysilicone-24, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-19, polysilicone-18, polysilicone-14 and polysilicone-3, alone or as a mixture.

[0008] However, the above mentioned polymers have little or no biodegradability and are derived from fossil raw materials.

[0009] The present inventors therefore set out to develop a novel alternative solution to the above copolymers which would provide adequate protection for hair when exposed to heat and which would have environmentally friendly properties that would comply with current and future regulatory and consumer requirements.

[0010] Disclosure of the Invention

[0011] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition (C) for preventing and / or slowing down the appearance of unaesthetic effects on human hair after exposure to intense heat, the composition (C) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof:

[0012] - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 120,000 g / mol, said poly(farnesene) polymer being partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and

[0013] - a mixture (M) of 10 to 90% by weight of hydrocarbons, wherein at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons contain 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

[0014] For the purposes of the present invention, "unaesthetic effects on human hair" are understood to mean any changes in the external appearance resulting from exposure to intense heat, such as lifting of the cuticle, blistering of individual hair fibers, lack of shine, weakening of the hair against mechanical stresses, split ends, cracks and breakage of the hair, loss of softness, increased porosity of the hair fibers and / or reduced hydrophobicity of the hair.

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, "intense heat" refers to the induced heat emitted by appliances used to dry, straighten and / or curl wet hair, such as hair dryers, drying hoods, heated combs, heated hairbrushes, straightening irons and curling tongs. Such "intense" heat is emitted when these devices are operated at temperatures typically between 50°C and 250°C.

[0016] In the context of the present invention, the poly(farnesene) polymers contained in the composition (C) defined above are known and their chemical structures are described in detail in the international application published as WO 2020 / 144440 A1. They can be obtained by the method described in the international application published as No. WO 2018 / 052709 A1.

[0017] In the context of the present invention, "a mixture of hydrocarbons (M)" refers to a mixture of branched alkanes and / or straight-chain alkanes and / or cycloalkanes. "Straight-chain alkanes" containing 15-19 carbon atoms represent n-pentadecane, n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane and n-nonadecane; "branched alkanes" (or isoalkanes) containing 15-19 carbon atoms refer in particular to 2-methyltetradecane (or isopentadecane), 2-methylpentadecane (or isohexadecane), 2-methylhexadecane (or isohexadecane), 2-methylheptadecane (or isooctadecane) and 2-methyloctadecane (or isonadecane); "cycloalkanes containing 15-19 carbon atoms" refer in particular to saturated hydrocarbons, which include at least one saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group, which may be optionally substituted with one or more straight-chain or branched alkyl groups. As described in WO2020 / 144440A1, these mixtures can be obtained by biomass conversion.

[0018] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture (M) contained in the composition (C) defined above comprises, by 100% by weight thereof:

[0019] - 15 to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes),

[0020] - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and

[0021] - 4 to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes).

[0022] According to a more particular embodiment of the present invention, the mixture (M) contained in the composition (C) defined above is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons comprising, by 100% by weight:

[0023] - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0024] - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and

[0025] - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein

[0026] - 15 to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes),

[0027] - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and

[0028] - 4 to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes).

[0029] In the context of the present invention, the poly(farnesene) polymer comprised in composition (C) as defined above more particularly has a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 20,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 85,000 g / mol, even more particularly greater than or equal to 30,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 80,000 g / mol.

[0030] According to a very particular embodiment of the invention, the poly(farnesene) polymer contained in composition (C) defined above has a number average molecular weight of 71,000 g / mol and is fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups.

[0031] The subject of the present invention is more particularly the use as defined above, characterized in that the composition (C) comprises, based on 100% by weight thereof:

[0032] - 40% by weight of a fully hydrogenated poly(farnesene) polymer functionalized with hydroxyl groups and having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and

[0033] - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), calculated as 100% by weight, comprising:

[0034] - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0035] - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and

[0036] - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein

[0037] - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms,

[0038] - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and

[0039] - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0040] The composition (C) defined above can be prepared by simply mixing said poly(farnesene) polymer and said mixture (M) at a temperature between 20°C and 60°C, with mechanical stirring provided by an anchor or turbine spindle at a speed between 20 rpm and 500 rpm.

[0041] According to another particular aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use as defined above, characterized in that the composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F), said preparation (F) comprising, relative to 100% by weight thereof, from 0.2% to 40% by weight of said composition (C); more particularly, the use as defined above, characterized in that said preparation (F) is an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), said emulsion (E) comprising, relative to 100% by weight thereof:

[0042] - 50% to 98% by weight of said aqueous phase (A), and

[0043] - 2 to 50% by weight of said fatty phase (G), said fatty phase (G) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof:

[0044] - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C),

[0045] - 0.5 to 20% by weight of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M S ),as well as

[0046] - 0% to 89.5% by weight of oil or oils and / or waxes, said wax being different from said composition (C).

[0047] According to this particular aspect, the oils optionally included in the fatty phase (G) defined above are chemical substances or mixtures of chemical substances which are insoluble in water and liquid at a temperature of 25° C. These oils may be animal or vegetable oils or synthetic oils.

[0048] An example of an animal derived oil for use in the context of the present invention is squalene or squalane.

[0049] Examples of vegetable-derived oils for use in the context of the present invention include vegetable squalane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower seed oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, nut oil, passion fruit oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, tea tree oil, chicory oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, sesame oil, meadowfoam oil, kiwi oil, borage oil, black currant seed oil, coffee oil, pistachio oil, peach kernel oil, raspberry seed oil, strawberry seed oil, melon oil, blueberry seed oil, argan oil, plum oil extract, pomegranate oil, papaya oil, coconut cream, flower or vegetable oils and ethoxylated vegetable oils. Synthetic oils for use in the context of the present invention include fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, cetyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate; esters derived from lanolin acid such as isopropyl lanolin, isocetyl lanolin, triheptanoin, alkyl benzoates, hydrogenated oils, polyalphaolefins, polyolefins such as polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene or hydrogenated polyisobutene, marketed by Ets B. Rossow et Cie. as PARLEAM-POLYSYNLANE TM Sold in France under the name, cited by Michel and Irene Ash; Thesaurus of Chemical Products, Chemical Publishing Co, Inc. 1986 Volume I, page 211 (ISBN 07131 3603 0); silicone oils such as dimethyl polysiloxane, methylphenyl polysiloxane, amine-modified silicone, fatty acid-modified silicone, alcohol-modified silicone, alcohol and fatty acid-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, epoxy-modified silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, cyclic silicone and alkyl-modified silicone.

[0050] According to this particular aspect, the wax optionally included in the fatty phase (G) defined above is a chemical substance or mixture of chemical substances which is insoluble in water and has a solid appearance at a temperature of 45° C. Examples include beeswax, kamoba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, blackcurrant flower wax, narcissus flower wax, orange flower wax, tangerine wax, rice wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, ozokerite wax, polyethylene wax, silicone wax, vegetable wax, fatty alcohols and fatty acids which are solid at room temperature and glycerides which are solid at room temperature.

[0051] According to this particular aspect, and depending on the emulsifying surfactant (S) or the mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M S ), the emulsion (E) defined above is either an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0052] Existing in (O / W) emulsions (E 1 ) of the fat phase (G 1 ) in the water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S 1 ) or a mixture of water-in-oil emulsifying surfactants (M S1 ), which means a chemical substance or a mixture of chemical substances which is capable of causing the fat phase (G 1 ) droplets are stably dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase (A). The emulsifying surfactant (S 1 ) or a mixture of said emulsifying surfactants (M S1 Examples of ) include, in particular:

[0053] - polysorbates obtained by ethoxylation of one molar equivalent of a sorbitan ester (e.g., sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate or sorbitan oleate) with 5 to 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;

[0054] - the product formed by the ethoxylation reaction of 1 molar equivalent of a fatty acid (such as palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or oleic acid) with 5 to 40 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;

[0055] - products of esterification of fatty acids (such as palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, arachidic acid or behenic acid) with 3 to 20 molar equivalents of glycerol;

[0056] The water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S 2 ) includes, in particular:

[0057] - lipoamino acids and their salts, lipopeptides and their salts; sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate and sorbitan isostearate; glyceryl esters, such as glyceryl laurate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl trioleate and glyceryl isostearate;

[0058] - esters of polyethylene glycol, polyglycerol or polyols, such as polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol laurate, polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol palmitate, polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol stearate, polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol oleate, polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol sesquioleate, polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol trioleate, polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol isostearate, polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate, such as HYPERMER TM B246, ARLACEL TM P135, DEHYMULS TM PGPH and DECAGLYN TM 5HS;

[0059] - Polyethylene glycol-alkyl glycol copolymers, such as PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer, such as ELFACOS ST9 TM ;

[0060] - sucrose esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated methyl glucoside esters;

[0061] - fatty acids and ethoxylated fatty alcohols;

[0062] - anionic emulsifiers, such as decyl phosphate or cetearyl sulfate; aluminum polyoxystearate, such as magnesium stearate and aluminum stearate; and

[0063] - Alkyl polyglucosides, combinations of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols.

[0064] An example of the alkyl polyglucoside composition is a composition represented by the following formula (CA 1 ): R 1 -O-(G) x -H, wherein G represents a reducing sugar residue selected from glucose or xylose, R 1 -O- is bonded to G through the anomeric carbon of the sugar residue to form an acetal function, x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, R 1 represents an aliphatic group selected from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl and 2-decyltetradecyl, the composition (CA 1 ) by formula R 1 -O-(G) 1 -H, R 1 -O-(G) 2 -H, R 1 -O-(G) 3 -H and R 1 -O-(G) 4 -H and R1 -O-(G) 5 -H represents a mixture of compounds, each in a molar ratio of a 1 、a 2 、a 3 、a 4 and a 5 , so that a 1 +a 2 +a 3 +a 4 +a 5 The sum is equal to 1, and a 1 +2a 2 +3a 3 +4a 4 +5a 5 The sum is equal to x.

[0065] An example of a combination of an alkyl polyglucoside and a fatty alcohol is the composition (CA 2 ), which, calculated as 100% by weight, comprises:

[0066] - 10% to 50% by weight, more particularly 20% to 30% by weight of the above composition (CA 1 ),as well as

[0067] - 90% to 50% by weight, more particularly 80% to 70% by weight, of at least one fatty alcohol of the formula: R' 1 -OH, which is 1 Same or different R' 1 represents a group selected from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-eicosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl or 2-decyltetradecyl; R' 1 It more particularly represents the 2-octyldodecyl radical.

[0068] Another example of a combination of an alkyl polyglucoside and a fatty alcohol is a composition (CA 3 ), based on 100% by weight, the composition comprises:

[0069] - 15 to 25% by weight of the composition (CA 1 );

[0070] - 55% to 65% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol of the formula R'1-OH, in which R'1 represents 2-octyldodecyl; and

[0071] 10 to 30 wt% of at least one polyethylene glycol poly(hydroxystearate) of the formula: Z 2 -O-[CH2 -CH(R 4 )-O] y2 -Z' 2 , where y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an ethyl group, Z 2 Represents a group of the formula:

[0072] [Chemical formula 1]

[0073]

[0074] wherein y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, in particular an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z 2 Same or different Z' 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a group having the formula as defined above.

[0075] As present in (W / O) emulsion (E 2 ) of the fat phase (G 2 ) in the (W / O) type emulsifying surfactant (S 2 ) or a mixture of (W / O) type emulsifying surfactants (M s2 ), especially alkyl polyglucoside compositions, compositions of alkyl polyglucoside and fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyethylene glycol polyhydroxystearate, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate, alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate, polyethylene glycol-alkyl glycol copolymers.

[0076] The (W / O) emulsion (E 2 ) can also comprise in the aqueous phase (A) 0.5 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.5 to 5 wt %, of a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) or a mixture of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolytes (M) based on 100 wt % of the aqueous phase (A). p ).

[0077] In the foregoing definition, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) means a nonlinear, crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte in the form of a three-dimensional network, which is insoluble in water but swellable in water and leads to the formation of a chemical gel.

[0078] Examples of the cross-linked anionic polyelectrolyte (P) are:

[0079] - homopolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or fully salified in the form of sodium or ammonium salts, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide);

[0080] - copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ), partially or fully salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, and acrylic acid (δ), partially or fully salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular copolymers in which the molar ratio of the monomers (γ) and (δ) is as follows:

[0081] 30%≤(γ)≤90% or more, in particular 40%≤(γ)≤90%, and

[0082] 10%≤(δ)≤70% or more, in particular 10%≤(δ)≤60%;

[0083] - copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) salified partially or completely in the form of the sodium or ammonium salt and acrylamide (ε), crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular copolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (γ) and (ξ) are as follows:

[0084] 30%≤(γ)≤90%, and

[0085] 10%≤(ε)≤70%;

[0086] - copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) and hydroxyethyl acrylate (ξ), partially or fully salified in the form of the sodium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular copolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (γ) and (ξ) are as follows:

[0087] 30%≤(γ)≤90%, and

[0088] 10%≤(ξ)≤70%;

[0089] - terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or fully salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt, acrylic acid (δ) partially or fully salified in the form of its sodium or ammonium salt and acrylamide (ε), crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular said terpolymers wherein the molar ratios of the monomers (γ), (δ) and (ε) are as follows:

[0090] 30%≤(γ)≤45%,

[0091] 2%≤(δ)≤10%, in particular 2%≤(δ)≤8%, and

[0092] 45%≤(ε)≤68%, especially 47%≤(δ)≤68%;

[0093] - terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ), partially or fully salified in the form of the sodium or ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide (β) and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate (α), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular such copolymers in which the molar ratios of the monomers (γ), (β) and (α) are as follows:

[0094] 60%≤(γ)≤80%,

[0095] 15% ≤ (β) ≤ 39.5%, and

[0096] 0.5%≤(α)≤5%;

[0097] - a tetrapolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ), partially or fully salified in the form of the sodium or ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide (β), lauroyl methacrylate (η) and stearyl methacrylate (μ), crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide); in particular said copolymers wherein the molar ratios of the monomers (y), (β), (η) and (μ) are as follows:

[0098] 60%≤(γ)≤80%,

[0099] 15%≤(β)≤39%,

[0100] 0.5%≤(η)≤2.5%, and

[0101] 0.5%≤(μ)≤2.5%.

[0102] Emulsion (E), (E 1 ) and (E 2 ) may also include excipients and / or active ingredients, which are conventional substances in the field of preparations for hair or scalp. Therefore, according to another specific embodiment of the present invention, the emulsion (E), (E) defined above 1 ) and (E 2) may also include one or more auxiliary compounds selected from foaming and / or detersive surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, water-soluble solubilizers, plasticizers, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestrants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorants, bleaching agents for bleaching body hair and skin, active ingredients for treating and / or protecting the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing visual effects or for encapsulating active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texturizing agents, optical brighteners or insect repellents.

[0103] As defined above, the emulsion (E), (E 1 ) and (E 2 Examples of foaming and / or cleaning surfactants which may be optionally present in the composition are topically acceptable anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic foaming and / or cleaning surfactants customarily used in the cosmetic field.

[0104] "Cosmetically acceptable" anionic foaming and / or detersive surfactants include alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts or ammonium, amines, amino alcohols, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isosulfates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, N-acyl derivatives of peptides, N-acyl derivatives of proteins or fatty acids.

[0105] "Cosmetically acceptable" amphoteric foaming and / or detersive surfactants include alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, soda alkene, alkylamidoalkyl sulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphoteric polyacetates and amphoteric propionates.

[0106] "Cosmetically acceptable" cationic foaming and / or detersive surfactants include quaternary ammonium derivatives.

[0107] "Cosmetically acceptable" nonionic foaming and / or detersive surfactants include alkyl polyglycosides (said alkyl polyglycosides comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing 8 to 12 carbon atoms), castor oil derivatives, polysorbates, cocamide and N-alkylamines.

[0108] "Cosmetically acceptable" thickening and / or gelling surfactants include, inter alia:

[0109] -Optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters, such as ethoxylated methyl polyglycoside esters, such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, respectively as GLUCAMATE TM LT and GLUMATE TM DOE120 is sold under the name;

[0110] - Alkoxylated fatty esters, such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl stearate and PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate, available in CROTHIX TM DS53 and ANTIL TM 141 Name Sales;

[0111] - fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates, such as PPG 14 lauryl isohexyl dicarbamate and PPG 14 palm ether 60 hexyl dicarbamate, available in ELFACOS TM T211 and ELFACOS TM Sold under the name GT2125.

[0112] "Cosmetically acceptable" emulsifying surfactants include, inter alia, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0113] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" nonionic emulsifying surfactants include sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as MONTANE TM 80 and Montane TM 85 and MONTANE TM 60 Products marketed under the name; Ethoxylated castor oil and ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil, for example under the name SIMULSOL TM 989; a composition comprising glyceryl stearate and a poly(ethoxylated) stearic acid having 5 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, for example as SIMULSOL TM 165, a composition comprising (ethoxylated) stearic acid and glyceryl stearate with 135 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated sorbitan esters, such as MONTANOX TM Products sold; Mannan esters; Ethoxylated mannan esters; Sucrose esters; Methyl glucoside esters.

[0114] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" anionic emulsifying surfactants include decyl phosphate, AMPHISOL TMCetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, arachidyl / behenyl phosphate, and SENSANOV TM Arachidyl alcohol combinations sold under the name WR, sodium stearate or triethanolamine stearate, N-acyl derivatives of salified amino acids, such as stearoyl glutamate.

[0115] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" cationic emulsifying surfactants include amine oxides, Quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in International Application No. WO 96 / 00719, primarily those having a fatty chain containing at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0116] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" opacifying and / or pearlizing agents include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and fatty alcohols comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0117] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" texturizing agents include N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, octenyl starch succinate, and myristyl polyglucoside, each listed as AMINOHOPE TM LL, DRYFLO TM and MONTANOV 14; cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.

[0118] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" solvents and co-solvents, alone or as mixtures, include water, glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol and water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.

[0119] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" deodorants include alkali metal silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt, cetyl pyridinium salt; glycerol derivatives such as capric glyceryl, caprylic glyceryl, polycapric glyceryl; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propylene glycol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metal zeolites; Triclosan TM ; Aluminum bromide, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum and zirconium chlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum glycol chlorohydrate complexes, such as propylene glycol aluminum chlorohydrate complex, propylene glycol aluminum dichlorohydrate complex, propylene glycol aluminum sesquichlorohydrate complex, polyethylene glycol aluminum chlorohydrate complex, polyethylene glycol aluminum dichlorohydrate complex, polyethylene glycol aluminum sesquichlorohydrate complex.

[0120] Examples of "cosmetically acceptable" antioxidants include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives (such as tocopheryl acetate), mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE GL 47S (INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate).

[0121] The emulsion (E) and (E 1 ) and (E 2 Examples of active ingredients that may be present include:

[0122] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (such as retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopheryl acetate), vitamin B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives);

[0123] - Compounds with soothing properties, especially SEPICALM TM S, Allantoin and Bisabolol;

[0124] - Moisturizing compounds such as urea, hydroxyurea, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, glycerol, diglycerol, Aquaxyl TM xylityl polyglucoside sold under the trademark ;

[0125] - Plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as grape extract, pine extract, wine extract, olive extract, N-acyl peptides, such as MATRIXIL TM ; N-acyl amino acids; N-acyl partial protein hydrolysates; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, such as Raffermine TM ; Wheat extract, such as TENSINE TM or GLIADINE TM ; tannin-rich plant extracts, isoflavone-rich plant extracts or terpene-rich plant extracts;

[0126] - Freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine plant extracts; general marine extracts, such as coral; refined waxes; bacterial extracts;

[0127] - Ceramides; phospholipids; compounds with antibacterial or purifying properties, such as LIPACIDE TM C8G、LIPACIDETM UG, SEPICONTROL TM A5, OCTOPIROX TM or SENSIVA TM SC50;

[0128] - Compounds with energizing or stimulating properties, such as PHYSIOGENYL TM , panthenol and its derivatives, such as SEPICAP TM MP; Anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT TM DPHP、LIPACIDE TM PVB, SEPIVINOL TM 、SEPIVITAL TM , MANOLIVA TM 、PHYTO-AGE TM 、TIMECODE TM SURVICODE TM ;

[0129] - Anti-photoaging active ingredients; Active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction;

[0130] - Active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans;

[0131] - Active ingredients that have a positive effect on chemical cell communication (e.g. cytokines) or physical cell communication (e.g. integrins);

[0132] - Active ingredients that give a "warming" sensation to the skin, such as skin microcirculation activators (e.g. niacin derivatives) or products that give a "cooling" sensation to the skin (e.g. menthol and its derivatives);

[0133] - Active ingredients that improve skin microcirculation, such as venodilators; drainage active ingredients; decongestant active ingredients, such as extracts of ginkgo biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, rose, butcher's broom, centella asiatica, fucus, rosemary and willow.

[0134] The emulsions (E), (E 1 ) and (E 2 ) can be prepared by a method known to a person skilled in the art, which method comprises in particular the following steps:

[0135] - preparing the aqueous phase (A) by mixing all the hydrophilic ingredients in water;

[0136] - a step for preparing the fatty phase (G) by mixing all the hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients in the oil or mixture of oils and / or waxes constituting the phase (G) and then adding the composition (C) defined above;

[0137] - a step of mixing the aqueous phase (A) and the fatty phase (G) at a suitable temperature, using an anchor-type rotor, with mechanical stirring at a speed of 60 to about 100 rpm, until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained;

[0138] - Optionally, a step of adjusting the pH of the emulsion.

[0139] Emulsion (E), (E 1 ) and (E 2 ) may be packaged in pressurized form, for example in an aerosol device, in a "pump bottle" type device or in a device with perforated walls, for example in a mesh device.

[0140] According to another more specific aspect, the present invention relates to the use as defined above, characterized in that the composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F) which, relative to 100% by weight, comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, of the composition (C).

[0141] Another subject of the invention is a method for drying hair, characterized in that it comprises the following successive steps:

[0142] - At least one step a) , applying to the hair a cosmetic preparation (F), the preparation (F) comprising, based on 100% by weight, 0.2% to 40% by weight of a composition (C), the composition (C) comprising, based on 100% by weight:

[0143] - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 120,000 g / mol, said poly(farnesene) polymer being partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and

[0144] - a mixture (M) of 10% to 90% by weight of hydrocarbons, of which at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons comprise 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - Optionally, step b) , during step b), Step a) When finished, let hair sit at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes before

[0145] - Step c) ,exist Step a) At the end, or optionally at Step b) When finished, dry your hair using a heating device such as a hair dryer or heating hood.

[0146] In the above drying method Step a) In the method, the preparation (F) is applied directly or indirectly, for example by contact with the skin or hair via any type of support, such as paper, wipes or textiles.

[0147] In the drying method defined above Step b) Herein, "room temperature" refers to a temperature between 15°C and 35°C, especially a temperature between 20°C and 30°C.

[0148] According to a particular aspect of the method defined above, Step a) The mixture (M) of hydrocarbons present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, which comprises, based on 100% by weight:

[0149] - 15 to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes),

[0150] - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and

[0151] - 4 to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes).

[0152] According to a more specific aspect of the above method, Step a) The mixture (M) of hydrocarbons present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, which comprises, based on 100% by weight:

[0153] - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0154] - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and

[0155] - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein

[0156] - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms,

[0157] - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and

[0158] - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0159] According to another specific aspect of the above method, Step a)The poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention has a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 20,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 90,000 g / mol, in particular a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 40,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 80,000 g / mol; Step a) The poly(farnesene) polymer present in composition (C) contained in formulation (F) implemented in is especially fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

[0160] According to a most specific aspect of the above method, Step a) The composition (C) contained in the preparation (F) implemented in the embodiment comprises, based on 100% by weight:

[0161] - 40% by weight of a fully hydrogenated poly(farnesene) polymer functionalized with hydroxyl groups and having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and

[0162] - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), wherein the mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), based on 100% by weight, comprises:

[0163] - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0164] - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and

[0165] - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein

[0166] - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms,

[0167] - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and

[0168] - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0169] According to another particular aspect of the above method, the composition (C) is implemented in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), the emulsion (E) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof:

[0170] - 50 to 98% by weight of an aqueous phase (A), and

[0171] - 2 to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G),

[0172] The fatty phase (G) comprises, based on 100% by weight:

[0173] - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C),

[0174] - 0.5 to 20% by weight of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M S ),as well as

[0175] - 0% to 89.5% by weight of oil or oils and / or waxes, said wax being different from said composition (C).

[0176] According to another particular aspect of the method defined above, said composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F) which, relative to 100% by weight thereof, comprises from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, of said composition (C).

[0177] Another subject of the invention is a hair shaping method, characterized in that it comprises the following successive steps:

[0178] - Step d) , applying a cosmetic preparation (F) to dry or wet hair, the preparation (F) comprising, based on 100% by weight, 0.2% to 40% by weight of a composition (C), the composition (C) comprising, based on 100% by weight:

[0179] - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 120,000 g / mol, said poly(farnesene) polymer being partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and

[0180] - a mixture (M) of 10 to 90% by weight of hydrocarbons, of which at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons comprise 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0181] - Optionally, step e) ,exist Step d) When you are finished, let your hair sit at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes before

[0182] - Step f), exist Step d) At the end, or optionally at Step e) When you are finished, use a heating device, such as a straightener or curling iron, to style your hair.

[0183] In the above method definitions, "hair shaping" refers to the act of combing, straightening, waving and / or curling the hair.

[0184] In the shaping method defined above, "room temperature" refers to a temperature between 15°C and 35°C, especially a temperature between 20°C and 30°C.

[0185] In the shaping method defined above Step d) In the present invention, the preparation (F) can be applied directly or indirectly, for example by contacting the skin or hair via any type of support, such as paper, wipes or textiles.

[0186] According to a more specific aspect of the above method, Step a) The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) in the composition (C) included in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) comprises, based on 100% by weight:

[0187] - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0188] - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and

[0189] - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein

[0190] - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms,

[0191] - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and

[0192] - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0193] According to another specific aspect of the above method, Step a) The poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention has a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 20,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 90,000 g / mol, in particular a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 40,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 80,000 g / mol; Step a) The poly(farnesene) polymer present in composition (C) contained in formulation (F) implemented in is in particular fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

[0194] According to a most specific aspect of the above method, Step a) The composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment comprises, based on 100% by weight:

[0195] - 40% by weight of a fully hydrogenated poly(farnesene) polymer functionalized with hydroxyl groups and having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and

[0196] - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), wherein the mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), based on 100% by weight, comprises:

[0197] - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0198] - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and

[0199] - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein

[0200] - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms,

[0201] - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and

[0202] - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

[0203] According to another particular aspect of the above method, the composition (C) is applied in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), the emulsion (E) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof:

[0204] - 50 to 98% by weight of an aqueous phase (A), and

[0205] - 2 to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G), said fatty phase (G), based on 100% by weight, comprising:

[0206] - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C),

[0207] - 0.5 to 20% by weight of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (M S ),as well as

[0208] - 0% to 89.5% by weight of oil or oils and / or waxes, said wax being different from said composition (C).

[0209] According to another particular aspect of the above method, the composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F), the cosmetic preparation (F) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof, 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly 2% to 5% by weight, of the composition (C).

[0210] Experimental Examples

[0211] Preparation of the composition (C) implemented in the example

[0212] The (poly) farnesene polymer contained in the composition (C) implemented in the following examples is fully hydrogenated and functionalized with hydroxyl groups; its number average molecular weight is 71,000 g / mol. It was prepared according to the procedure described in WO2018 / 052709.

[0213] The mixture (M) contained in the same composition (C) is commercially available under the trade name Emogreen TM L19; based on 100% by weight, it includes 3.8% of straight-chain alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, 96.2% of isomeric alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and a proportion of less than 0.1% by weight of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms. Of these components, based on 100% by weight, 17.1% by weight are alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (straight-chain alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes), 72.5% by weight are alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (straight-chain alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes), and 4.7% by weight are alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (straight-chain alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes). The mixture (M) was prepared according to the procedure described in WO 2020 / 144440 A1.

[0214] Add the required amount of Emogreen TM L19 was poured into a glass reactor equipped with a double jacket, in which a temperature-controlled fluid was circulated, and a mechanical stirrer equipped with an anchor-type paddle was installed in the reactor. The stirring speed was set to 50 rpm and the temperature was set to 25°C. Then, with moderate stirring at a temperature of 60°C, the required amount of poly(farnesene) polymer was added. The amount introduced should be such that Emogreen TM The content of L19 is 60% by weight, and the content of the poly(farnesene) polymer is 40% by weight. The weight percentage of the obtained composition (C) is 100%.

[0215] The compatibility of composition (C) in preparations for hair was demonstrated.

[0216] A. Compatibility of composition (C) in hair care formulations comprising cationic conditioning agents.

[0217] Preparation of formulations : Preparation of the formulation according to the invention (F 1 ) and (F 2 ) and the comparative preparation (F' 1 ) and (F' 2 ), the composition of which is shown in Table 1 below, and the proportions are expressed in weight percentage.

[0218] Evaluation of the preparation: 100cm 3 The composition to be tested is loaded into a 250 cm 3 The bottles were placed in a thermostatic chamber adjusted to 20°C for 3 months. The appearance of the test object was evaluated after 7 days and 3 months. The same operation was repeated with a new sample of the preparation, and the temperature of the thermostatic chamber was adjusted to 45°C. After 3 months, the appearance of the test object was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0219] [Table 1]

[0220]

[0221] [Table 2]

[0222]

[0223] B. Compatibility of composition (C) in oil-in-water hair care emulsions comprising crosslinked cationic polyelectrolytes.

[0224] Preparation of the formulation: Preparation of the preparation according to the invention (F 3 ) and (F 4 ) and the comparative preparation (F' 3 ) and (F' 4 ), the composition of which is shown in Table 3 below, and the proportions are expressed in weight percentage.

[0225] Evaluation of formulations The formulation (F 3 )、(F 4 )、(F' 3 ) and (F' 4 The results are shown in Table 4 below.

[0226] [Table 3]

[0227]

[0228] [Table 4]

[0229]

[0230]

[0231] C. Compatibility of composition (C) in an unrinsed oil-in-water hair care emulsion comprising at least one surfactant and applied to the hair.

[0232] Preparation of formulations : Preparation of the formulation according to the invention (F 5 ) and (F 6 ) and the comparative preparation (F' 5) and (F' 6 ), the composition of which is shown in Table 5 below, and the proportions are expressed in weight percentage.

[0233] [Table 5]

[0234]

[0235] Evaluation of formulations :Use the same scheme as above to treat the preparation (F 5 )、(F 6 )、(F' 5 ) and (F' 6 The results are shown in Table 6 below.

[0236] [Table 6]

[0237]

[0238] D. Compatibility of composition (C) in oil for hair

[0239] Preparation of formulations : Preparation of the formulation according to the invention (F 7 ) and comparative preparation (F' 7 ) and (F' 8 ), the composition of which is shown in Table 7 below, and the proportions are expressed in weight percentage.

[0240] [Table 7]

[0241]

[0242] Evaluation of the formulation: The same protocol as above was used to evaluate the formulation (F 7 )、(F' 7 ) and (F' 8 The results are shown in Table 8 below.

[0243] [Table 8]

[0244]

[0245]

[0246] E. Observations and Conclusions

[0247] Based on the results obtained in the previous paragraphs, the following conclusions can be drawn:

[0248] - a preparation (F) according to the invention comprising a conditioning agent and a composition (C) 1 ) and (F 2 ) showed a homogeneous appearance after storage at 45°C for 3 months, while the formulation including the siloxane derivative (F' 1 ) and (F' 2) did not observe this.

[0249] - A W / O emulsion (preparation (F) according to the present invention comprising a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte and 5% of the composition (C) 4 )) showed a homogeneous appearance after storage at 45°C for 3 months, while the formulation including the siloxane derivative (F' 4 ) will seep out.

[0250] - The unrinsed O / W hair care emulsion comprising at least one surfactant and composition (C) was compared to the comparative emulsion comprising spherical particles (formulation (F' 5 and F' 6 )) has a more homogeneous appearance.

[0251] - a preparation (F) comprising the composition (C) 7 ) had a homogeneous appearance after storage at 45°C for 3 months, while formulation (F' 8 ) which had a heterogeneous appearance.

[0252] Therefore, we can conclude from all these results that formulations comprising composition (C) are highly compatible with formulation regimens for hair care and / or hair hygiene.

[0253] It was demonstrated that the formulation comprising composition (C) was able to maintain the integrity of keratin in the hair cortex.

[0254] Use Kmax Innovative System. A. Developed by the company The effect of the composition (C) in maintaining the integrity of keratin in the hair cortex was evaluated using a technique described herein.

[0255] A. Principles of the evaluation method

[0256] The technique is an integrated imaging mode on a microscope platform that allows the observation and measurement of polarization changes produced by the sample under investigation. It provides information on the birefringence of the sample being evaluated. "Birefringence" refers to the physical property of light propagating anisotropically in a material. In a birefringent medium, the refractive index is not unique; it depends on the polarization direction of the light wave. The "k-index" parameter measured by the technique provides information about the birefringence of the sample at each point in the image and can be used to quantitatively characterize the sample. Hair is composed of keratin, a fibrous protein. Keratin fibers include crystalline parts, which are held together by Coulomb forces and hydrophobic interactions. This crystalline structure of the keratin fibers in the cortex gives the hair the ability to change the polarization of light passing through it, a property known as birefringence. Healthy (control) hair, i.e. hair that has not been subjected to intense heat, has a high k-index value. The color within the fiber is homogeneous and consists of the color with the largest measured value (mainly orange-red). When the keratin fibers in the hair are not adversely affected, especially not by intense heat, they form a crystalline network, resulting in a "high k-index" value. In contrast, when hair is subjected to thermal stress (such as exposure to intense heat), the internal structure of the keratin changes, resulting in disorder and changes in the optical properties of the keratin, which ultimately leads to a decrease in the "k-index" and a sharp decrease in the color within the fiber, becoming inhomogeneous and showing different shades (green, blue and purple).

[0257] B. Procedures for the evaluation method

[0258] The composition to be tested was applied to dry hair using a comb containing about 30 mg of the composition to be tested. The hair was then massaged for 30 seconds and then dried at room temperature (20° C.) for 30 minutes. It was then heat-treated 50 times at a temperature of 210° C. using a straightening iron. The hair thus treated was left to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

[0259] The observation slides were prepared by embedding the hair in a freezing medium and then freezing the embedded hair (-20°C), followed by cutting at 30 μm and mounting the slides on an observation instrument (Xpolar instrument, magnification: x20, 25 images were collected in each case).

[0260] C. Evaluation of Composition

[0261] Table 9 and Table 10 list three compositions and four formulations, respectively.

[0262] [Table 9]

[0263]

[0264]

[0265] [Table 10]

[0266]

[0267] In addition, the same evaluation was performed on untreated hair that had not been heat treated ("negative control") and untreated hair that had been heat treated as described in the above procedure ("positive control").

[0268] D. Results obtained

[0269] The "k index" values ​​obtained are listed in Table 11 below. The results are expressed in two values:

[0270] Changes in VA relative to negative control 1 , calculated as follows:

[0271] VA 1 =[(k-index i - k-index 负对照 )X 100 / k-index 负对照

[0272] Protection percentage VA 2 , calculated as follows:

[0273] VA 2 =100-[(k-index i —k-index 负对照 )X100 / (k-index 负对照 —k-index 正对照 )]

[0274] [Table 11]

[0275] Tested composition <![CDATA[k - exponent (x 10 4 )]]> <![CDATA[VA 1 ]]> <![CDATA[VA 2 ]]> Negative control 87.82±16.13 Positive control 58.42±9.70 -33％ LCE 21076 69.65±9.70 -21％ 38.2％ LCE 21077 68.16±13.45 -22％ 33.1％ LCE 21078 51.83±6.56 -41％ -22.4％ LCE 21071 60.64±11.65 -31％ 22.0％ LCE 21072 67.24±11.81 -23％ 40.9％ LCE 21073 52.96±8.11 -40％ na LCE 21075 62.35±8.88 -29％ 26.9％

[0276] Statistical analysis was also performed on the different compositions, and the results showed significant differences, as shown in Table 12 below:

[0277] [Table 12]

[0278] Research conditions Significant difference (p) LCE 21073 / LCE 21071 <![CDATA[(p = 9 10 -3 )]]> LCE 21073 / LCE 21072 <![CDATA[Yes (p = 3.5 10 -5 )]]> LCE 21073 / LCE 21075 <![CDATA[Yes (p = 2.8 10 -4 )]]> LCE 21071 / LCE 21072 <![CDATA[No (p = 8 10 -2 )]]> LCE 21076 / LCE 21077 No (p=0.72) LCE 21076 / LCE 21078 <![CDATA[Yes (p = 1.14 10 -5 )]]>

[0279] Observations and Comments : Compositions (C) (LCE21076) and (LCE21077) based on silicone derivatives provided 38.2% and 33.1% protection respectively against exposure to heat from a straightening iron; TMThe protection rate of the composition of L19 (LCE21078) was negative, indicating its ineffectiveness, and visual observation during the experiment highlighted the strong degradation of keratin. Among the formulations tested, the so-called "placebo" formulation (LCE21073) did not contain composition (C), silicone derivatives or any other film-forming or keratin-protecting agent, so keratin damage caused by heat treatment was observed. The protection percentage results show that the keratin protection provided by the three formulations (LCE21071)(LCE21072)(LCE21075) is significantly different from the protection provided by the placebo formulation (LCE21073). Composition (C) has a protective effect on keratin in the hair cortex, reducing the impact of heat on keratin integrity by 38%. This property was confirmed in the formulation compared with the placebo, where the keratin protection rate was 22%. The formulations according to the invention comprising composition (C) are therefore an alternative solution to silicone derivatives such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS or dimethicone) and / or dimethiconol, providing cosmetic formulations having the property of slowing down or preventing the appearance of unaesthetic effects on human hair after exposure to intense heat. Such alternatives employ chemical compositions of vegetable and / or biodegradable origin.

[0280] Examples of cosmetic preparations

[0281] Water-in-oil emulsion for hair pre-drying

[0282]

[0283]

[0284] Oil-in-water emulsion conditioner

[0285] Composition of hair cream Weight ratio of ingredients Demineralized water Appropriate amount <![CDATA[Dissolvine TM GL47S]]> 0.30％ <![CDATA[Sepimax TM It was]]> 0.60％ <![CDATA[Solagum TM AX]]> 0.50％ <![CDATA[Fluidifeel TM Easy]]> 0.30％ Argan oil 2.00％ DL-α-Tocopherol 0.05％ Composition (C) 3.00％ <![CDATA[Euxyl TM PE9010]]> 1.00％ lactic acid Until pH = 4.5

[0286] Exquisite hair mask

[0287] Hair mask composition Weight ratio of ingredients water Appropriate amount to 100% glycerin 2.00％ <![CDATA[SOLAGUM TM TARA]]> 0.30％ Composition (C) 3.00％ Coconut Oil 1.00％ Moringa Seed Oil 1.00％ <![CDATA[SIMULQUAT TM HC 305]]> 3.50％ <![CDATA[XYLISHINE TM ]]> 3.00％ perfume 0.20％ Phenoxyethanol-Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00％ dye 0.08％

[0288] Precious Hair Oil

[0289]

[0290]

[0291] "Perfect" smoothing serum protects hair from heat damage, leaving it soft and smooth

[0292] Composition of Essence Weight ratio of ingredients water Appropriate amount to 100% Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.30％ <![CDATA[SEPIMAX TM IT WAS]]> 0.60％ <![CDATA[SOLAGUM TM TARA]]> 0.50％ <![CDATA[FLUIDIFEEL TM EASY]]> 3.00％ Composition (C) 3.00％ Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 2.00％ Isopropyl myristate 1.00％ <![CDATA[ALARIANE TM ]]> 1.00％ <![CDATA[XYLISHINE TM ]]> 3.00％ Tocopherol 0.05％ perfume 0.20％ Phenoxyethanol-Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00％ lactic acid 0.25％

[0293] The compounds identified by trade name in the various formulations and experimental examples are described below:

[0294] Varisoft TM BT85 is an antistatic agent and conditioning agent, INCI name: Behentrimonium Chloride;

[0295] AG C 16 -C 18 It is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (weight ratio = 50 / 50);

[0296] Natrosol TM 250HPC is the trade name for hydroxyethyl cellulose;

[0297] Massocare TM SIL CPD is an emollient with the INCI names: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone);

[0298] SIMULQUAT TM HC305 is an emulsion stabilizer and thickener with the INCI name: Acrylamidopropylammonium chloride / acrylates copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Cocoeth-7);

[0299] Easynov TM It is an oil-in-water emulsifier with the INCI name: Octyldodecyl xyloside and PEG30 dipolyhydroxystearate;)

[0300] Euxyl TM PE9010 is a preservative with the INCI names: phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin);

[0301] Dissolvine TM GL47 is a multivalent chelating agent, and its INCI name is: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate;

[0302] SEPIMAX TM Zen is a polymeric thickener useful as a rheology modifier for cosmetic formulations, whose polymer backbone consists of monomer units derived from the sodium form of 2-methyl 2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, and includes trimethylolpropane triacrylate as a crosslinker; its INCI name is: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6;

[0303] SOLAGUMTM TARA is a type of tara gum used as a texturizing agent and emulsion stabilizer. Its INCI name is: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum;

[0304] Fluidifeel TM Easy is a mixture of lauryl polyglucoside with a degree of polymerization of 1.20, myristyl polyglucoside with a degree of polymerization of 1.20, and polyglyceryl-6 laurate, used as an oil-in-water emulsifier for the preparation of cosmetic emulsions.

[0305] Xylishine TM An active agent used to improve the shine of hair, its INCI name is: Xylitol Glucoside (and) Anhydroxylitol (and) Maltitol (and) Xylitol (and) Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract);

[0306] LANOL TM 2681 is a fatty phase with emollient properties used in the formulation of cosmetic compositions, its INCI name is "Coco-caprylate / caprate";

[0307] SEA SATIN TM An oily extract of the marine plant Beta maritima that enhances the volume, shine and smoothness of hair and can therefore be used in cosmetic compositions; its INCI name is: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Beet Root Extract;

[0308] Alariane TM An ingredient used to protect hair exposed to external stress (pollution, UV radiation); its INCI name is: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alaria Esculenta Extract.

Claims

1. Use of a composition (C) for preventing and / or slowing down the appearance of unsightly effects on human hair after exposure to intense heat, the composition (C) comprising, based on 100% by weight: - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 120,000 g / mol, said poly(farnesene) polymer being partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - a mixture (M) of 10 to 90% by weight of hydrocarbons, wherein at least 94% by weight of the hydrocarbons contain 15 to 19 carbon atoms.

2. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that The hydrocarbon mixture (M) contained in the composition (C) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the hydrocarbon mixture (M) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 15 to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - 4 to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes).

3. The use according to claim 2, characterized in that: The hydrocarbon mixture (M) present in the composition (C) is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the hydrocarbon mixture (M) comprises, based on 100% by weight thereof: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms, - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

4. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that The poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) has a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 20,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 90,000 g / mol, in particular greater than or equal to 40,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 80,000 g / mol.

5. The use according to claim 4, characterized in that: The poly(farnesene) polymer present in said composition (C) is fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

6. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The composition (C) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 40% by weight of a fully hydrogenated poly(farnesene) polymer functionalized with hydroxyl groups and having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), calculated as 100% by weight, comprising: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms, - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

7. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that The composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F) which contains, based on 100% by weight of the cosmetic preparation (F), 0.2% to 40% by weight of the composition (C).

8. The use according to claim 7, characterized in that The preparation (F) is an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fat phase (G), wherein the emulsion (E) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 50 to 98% by weight of an aqueous phase (A), and - 2 to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G), The fat phase (G) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5 to 20% by weight of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (Ms), and - 0% to 89.5% by weight of oil or oils and / or waxes, said wax being different from said composition (C).

9. The use according to claim 7, characterized in that: The composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F) which comprises, relative to 100% by weight thereof, from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, of the composition (C).

10. A method for drying hair, characterized in that The method comprises the following consecutive steps: - Step a) , applying to the hair a cosmetic preparation (F), said cosmetic preparation (F) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof, 0.2% to 40% by weight of a composition (C), said composition (C) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof: - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 120,000 g / mol, said poly(farnesene) polymer being partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - a mixture (M) of 10 to 90% by weight of hydrocarbons, of which at least 94% by weight of said hydrocarbons contain 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - Optionally, step b) , during step b), Step a) When finished, let hair sit at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes before - Step c) ,exist Step a) At the end, or optionally at Step b) When finished, dry your hair using a heating device such as a hair dryer or heating hood.

11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that exist Step a) The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 15 to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - 4 to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes).

12. The method according to claim 11, characterized in that exist Step a) The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms, - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

13. The method according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that exist Step a) The poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the method of the present invention has a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 20,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 90,000 g / mol, in particular a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 40,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 80,000 g / mol.

14. The method according to claim 13, characterized in that exist Step a) Said poly(farnesene) polymer present in said composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) implemented in is fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

15. The method according to any one of claims 10 to 14, characterized in that exist Step a) The composition (C) contained in the preparation (F) used in the invention comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 40% by weight of a fully hydrogenated poly(farnesene) polymer functionalized with hydroxyl groups and having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), calculated as 100% by weight, comprising: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms, - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

16. The method according to any one of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that The composition (C) is applied in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), the emulsion (E) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof: - 50 to 98% by weight of an aqueous phase (A), and - 2 to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G), The fat phase (G) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5 to 20% by weight of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (Ms), and - 0% to 89.5% by weight of oil or oils and / or waxes, said wax being different from said composition (C).

17. The method according to any one of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that The composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F) which comprises, relative to 100% by weight thereof, from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, of the composition (C).

18. A method for shaping hair, characterized in that The method comprises the following consecutive steps: - Step d) , applying to dry or wet hair a cosmetic preparation (F), said cosmetic preparation (F) comprising, based on 100% by weight, 0.2% to 40% by weight of a composition (C), said composition (C) comprising, based on 100% by weight: - 10% to 90% by weight of at least one poly(farnesene) polymer having a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 120,000 g / mol, said poly(farnesene) polymer being partially or fully hydrogenated and / or functionalized with hydroxyl groups, and - a mixture (M) of 10 to 90% by weight of hydrocarbons, of which at least 94% by weight of said hydrocarbons contain 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - Optionally, step e) ,exist During step e), exist Step d) When you are finished, let your hair sit at room temperature for 5 to 60 minutes before - Step f), exist Step d) At the end, or optionally at Step e) When you are finished, use a heating device, such as a straightener or curling iron, to style your hair.

19. The method according to claim 18, characterized in that exist Step d) The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 15 to 20% by weight of alkanes containing 17 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), - 70% to 75% by weight of alkanes containing 18 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes), and - 4 to 6% by weight of alkanes containing 19 carbon atoms (linear alkanes, isomeric alkanes and cycloalkanes).

20. The method according to claim 19, characterized in that exist Step d) The mixture of hydrocarbons (M) present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment of the present invention is a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons, and the mixture of hydrocarbons (M) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms, - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

21. The method according to any one of claims 18 to 20, characterized in that exist Step d) The poly(farnesene) polymer present in the composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the method of the present invention has a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 20,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 90,000 g / mol, in particular a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 40,000 g / mol and less than or equal to 80,000 g / mol.

22. The method according to claim 21, characterized in that exist Step d) Said poly(farnesene) polymer present in said composition (C) comprised in the formulation (F) implemented in is fully hydrogenated, functionalized with hydroxyl groups and has a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000 g / mol.

23. The method according to any one of claims 18 to 22, characterized in that exist Step a) The composition (C) contained in the formulation (F) implemented in the embodiment comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 40% by weight of a fully hydrogenated poly(farnesene) polymer functionalized with hydroxyl groups and having a number average molecular weight equal to 71,000, and - 60% by weight of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons (M), calculated as 100% by weight, comprising: - 3.8% of linear alkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, - 96.2% of isoalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and - less than 0.1% of cycloalkanes containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and wherein - 17.1% by weight of alkanes (linear alkanes, isoalkanes and cycloalkanes) containing 17 carbon atoms, - 72.5% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 18 carbon atoms, and - 4.7% by weight of alkanes (linear, isomeric and cycloalkanes) containing 19 carbon atoms.

24. The method according to any one of claims 18 to 23, characterized in that The composition (C) is applied in an emulsion (E) of an aqueous phase (A) and a fatty phase (G), the emulsion (E) comprising, based on 100% by weight thereof: - 50 to 98% by weight of an aqueous phase (A), and - 2 to 50% by weight of a fatty phase (G), The fat phase (G) comprises, based on 100% by weight: - 10% to 80% by weight of said fat composition (C), - 0.5 to 20% by weight of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifying surfactant (S) or a mixture of emulsifying surfactants (Ms), and - 0% to 89.5% by weight of oil or oils and / or waxes, said wax being different from said composition (C).

25. The method according to any one of claims 18 to 23, characterized in that The composition (C) is applied in a cosmetic preparation (F) which, based on 100% by weight of the cosmetic preparation (F), comprises 1% to 10% by weight, in particular 2% to 5% by weight, of the composition (C).

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