Hair conditioner composition comprising non-siloxane conditioner

Abstract

A hair conditioner composition, the hair conditioner composition comprising: (a) an L-base layered gel network; (b) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of an amine salt of a dicarboxylic acid; (c) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a diester; (d) about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a glyceride copolymer.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to hair conditioner compositions and, more particularly, to hair conditioner compositions comprising non-silicone conditioning agents. Background Art

[0002] A variety of methods have been developed to condition hair. These methods range from applying hair conditioners after shampooing, such as leave-in and rinse-off products, to hair conditioning shampoos that attempt to cleanse and condition the hair from a single product.

[0003] Although some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of shampoos containing conditioners, the majority of consumers prefer more conventional conditioner formulations, which are typically applied to the hair after shampooing as a separate step from shampooing. The conditioning formulations may be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and may be in the form of emulsions, creams, gels, sprays or mousses. Such consumers who prefer conventional conditioner formulations value a relatively high conditioning effect, or the convenience of varying the amount of conditioning depending on the condition or amount of hair.

[0004] Silicone fluid is widely used in hair conditioner, to provide multiple hair beneficial effects, such as reducing combing force, improving smoothness, increasing hair gloss, preventing curling and keeping hairstyle.The most commonly used silicone fluid in hair conditioner comprises dimethicone, cyclopolymethylsiloxane, polyphenyl trimethicone, dimethiconol, aminosilicone, amino-terminated dimethicone, side chain quaternary ammonium siloxane, terminal quaternary ammonium siloxane, aminoalkylene oxide siloxane, quaternary ammonium alkylene oxide siloxane and aminomorpholino siloxane.However, silicone is not easily washed off during shampooing, and over time, silicone may accumulate on the hair surface, making hair heavy and pressing it down.In addition, most of silicones are not easy for biodegradation and do not meet environmental sustainability requirements.Therefore, some consumers will prefer hair care products without silicone, and there is a trend that beauty products are substantially free of silicone.

[0005] Natural oils and waxes have been formulated into hair conditioners to replace silicones for hair conditioning. They are usually vegetable triglyceride oils and waxes, such as coconut oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, Brazilian nut oil, argan oil, almond oil, apricot oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, hemp oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, white meadowfoam seed oil, deep sea two-section camellia oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, candellila wax, rice bran wax, sunflower oil, beeswax, bayberry wax, orange wax and carnauba wax. The key consumer benefit of using natural oils in hair conditioners is hair moisture retention and scalp health. However, there may be shortcomings, such as the dragging feeling during wet rinsing, the balling of oil on the dry hair surface causes oiliness and greasy feeling, and is difficult to form and maintain a hairstyle.

[0006] Therefore, there is a need for hair conditioners comprising non-silicone hair conditioning materials that still provide the consumer with the benefits and properties of silicone-based conditioners. Summary of the invention

[0007] A hair conditioner composition comprising: (a) an L-based lamellar gel network; (b) from about 0.01 wt % to about 5 wt % of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) from about 0.01 wt % to about 5 wt % of a diester; and (d) from about 0.01 wt % to about 5 wt % of a glyceride copolymer. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0008] While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.

[0009] The hair conditioner composition of the present invention may comprise: (a) an L-based lamellar gel network; (b) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a diester; (d) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a glyceride copolymer; wherein the L-based lamellar gel network composition comprises (i) an aqueous carrier; (ii) from about 0.1 wt. % to about 20 wt. % of a cationic surfactant; (iii) from about 0.1 wt. % to about 20 wt. % of a fatty alcohol; wherein the L-based lamellar gel network has a d-spacing of from about 5 nm to about 50 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (L-based spacing) of the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method; and wherein the composition has a shear stress of from about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s.

[0010] Hair conditioning agents are used to improve the feel, appearance and manageability of hair. Hair conditioning compositions typically comprise an L-based lamellar gel network structure formed by a process of preparing (e.g., heating, emulsifying and cooling) a composition comprising (i) a cationic surfactant, (ii) a high melting point fatty compound having a melting point greater than 25°C and in some examples 40°C to 85°C, and (iii) an aqueous carrier. The L-based lamellar gel network structure provides: (a) a consumer preferred appearance with a creamy feel texture, smooth feel, and a rich feel when spread; (b) wet conditioning benefits, including improved wet detangling of hair and smooth rinse feel; (c) dry hair protection benefits, such as repair of damaged hair and antistatic properties; and (d) structural robustness to suspend and deliver hair conditioning active ingredients (such as silicones, oils, and particles).

[0011] To achieve consumer benefits and have structural robustness of the hair conditioner composition, in the present invention, the preferred L-basal lamellar gel network structure has a d-spacing of about 5 nm to about 50 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (L-basal spacing) according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method. In addition, the composition may have a shear stress of about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s.

[0012] Silicones have been used in hair conditioner compositions to provide hair benefits such as smooth hair feel, hair shine, hair moisturization, damaged hair repair, hair manageability, hair styling, and curl retention. To achieve such consumer benefits, the non-silicone hair conditioning compositions of the present invention may comprise (a) dicarboxylic acid amine salts, (b) diesters, and (c) glyceride copolymers.

[0013] Dicarboxylic acid amine salts can be used in the composition of the present invention to increase the deposition of conditioning active substances on the hair surface, thereby achieving the beneficial effects of improving hair moisture retention, hair softness, antistatic properties and damaged hair repair. The content in the composition can be from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight. Too high a content of dicarboxylic acid amine salts may lead to excessive deposition on the hair surface, causing the hair to be weighed down and the hair volume to be reduced. It may also produce a greasy and dirty feeling.

[0014] Diesters can be used in the composition to provide lubricity to the conditioner composition, which achieves a hair surface smoothness, increased hair smoothness, and enhanced hair gloss preferred by consumers. The content in the composition can be from about 0.01 wt % to about 5 wt %. Too high a content of diester may migrate into the preferred L-base lamellar gel network structure and reduce product robustness.

[0015] Glyceride copolymer can be used in the composition to provide film formation on the hair surface, which realizes hair surface smoothness, increased hair elasticity and flexibility, damaged hair repair, improved curl retention and increased hair management. The content in the composition can be about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight. Too high a content of glyceride copolymer may cause difficulty in spreading it on the hair surface and excessive deposition on the hair surface, causing hair to be pressed down and hair volume to be reduced. It may also produce a greasy and dirty feeling.

[0016] Surprisingly, the hair conditioner compositions of the present invention comprising: (a) an L-based lamellar gel network; (b) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a diester; and (d) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a glyceride copolymer, are able to provide consumer-preferred benefits without the use of silicones.

[0017] Additionally, natural plant oils or waxes from plants and / or vegetables have been used as hair conditioning actives to provide hair conditioning benefits. However, a disadvantage is that the oils may reduce the smooth wet rinse feel during washing and may cause uneven spreading on the hair surface, where oil droplets ball up on the hair surface, causing a greasy feel and weighing down the hair.

[0018] Surprisingly, the hair conditioner compositions of the present invention comprising: (a) an L-based lamellar gel network; (b) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a diester; (d) from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. % of a glyceride copolymer; and (e) from about 0.1 wt. % to about 15 wt. % of a natural oil or wax, are able to provide consumer-preferred benefits without the use of silicones.

[0019] L-basal lamellar gel network

[0020] Conditioners of the present invention may comprise an L-based lamellar gel network that can provide conditioning benefits including improved wet disentanglement during washing and a moisturized feel of the hair after rinsing the conditioner. As used herein, the term "gel network" refers to a lamellar or vesicular solid crystalline phase comprising at least one high melting point fatty compound (such as a fatty alcohol as described in detail below), at least one surfactant (particularly a cationic surfactant as described in detail below), and water or other suitable solvent. The lamellar or vesicular phase comprises a bilayer consisting of a first layer comprising a high melting point fatty compound and a surfactant and alternating with a second layer comprising water or other suitable solvent. Gel networks are generally further described by GM Eccleston ("Functions of Mixed Emulsifiers and Emulsifying Waxes in Dermatological Lotions and Creams", Colloids and Surfaces A: Physiochem. and Eng. Aspects 123-124 (1997) 169-182) and GM Eccleston ("The Microstructure of Semisolid Creams", Pharmacy International, Vo;. 7, 63-70 (1986)).

[0021] The L-base lamellar gel network can be formed from (a) a cationic surfactant, (b) a high melting point fatty compound, and (c) an aqueous carrier. The L-base lamellar gel network is suitable for providing various conditioning benefits such as a smooth feel during application to wet hair and a soft and moisturized feel on dry hair.

[0022] Alternatively, in view of providing improved wet conditioning benefits when forming an L-based lamellar gel network, the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are included at a level such that the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high melting point fatty compound is in the range of alternatively from about 1:1 to about 1:10, alternatively from about 1:1 to about 1:7, alternatively from about 1:1.5 to about 1:7, alternatively from about 1:1.5 to about 1:5, alternatively from about 1:2 to about 1:6, alternatively from about 1:2 to about 1:5.

[0023] Alternatively, in particular when an L-matrix lamellar gel network is formed, the composition of the present invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants in view of the stability of the gel network. In the present invention, "the composition is substantially free of anionic surfactants" means: the composition does not contain anionic surfactants; or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants, the content of such anionic surfactants is very low. In the present invention, if included, the total content of such anionic surfactants may be alternatively 1% or less, alternatively 0.5% or less, alternatively 0.1% or less, by weight of the composition. Most alternatively, the total content of such anionic surfactants is 0% by weight of the composition.

[0024] Alternatively, when an L-based lamellar gel network is formed, the L-based lamellar gel network may have a d-spacing of about 5 nm to about 50 nm, alternatively about 8 nm to about 45 nm, alternatively about 10 nm to about 40 nm, alternatively about 12 nm to about 35 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (L-based spacing) according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method. The composition of the present invention may have a shear stress of about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s, alternatively about 50 Pa to about 700 Pa at 950 1 / s, alternatively about 50 Pa to about 600 Pa at 950 1 / s, and alternatively about 60 Pa to about 600 Pa at 950 1 / s.

[0025] Cationic surfactants

[0026] The composition of the present invention may include a cationic surfactant. In view of providing the beneficial effects of the present invention, the cationic surfactant may be included in the composition in an amount of about 0.1%, alternatively about 0.5%, alternatively about 0.8%, alternatively about 1.0%, and to about 20%, alternatively to about 15%, alternatively to about 12%, alternatively to about 10%, alternatively to about 8.0%, alternatively to about 6.0%, by weight of the composition.

[0027] The surfactant may be water-insoluble. In the present invention, "water-insoluble surfactant" means that the surfactant has a solubility in water at 25°C of alternatively less than 0.5g / 100g (excluding 0.5g / 100g) water, alternatively 0.3g / 100g water or less.

[0028] The cationic surfactant may be one cationic surfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants. Alternatively, the cationic surfactant is selected from: a mono-long chain alkylamine; a di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; a mono-long chain alkyl cation neutralized amino acid ester; a combination of a mono-long chain alkylamine and a di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; and a combination of a mono-long chain alkylamine and a mono-long chain alkyl cation neutralized amino acid ester.

[0029] Mono-long chain alkylamine

[0030] The mono-long chain alkylamines may include those having one long alkyl chain having alternatively 19 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 19 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 20 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 20 to 22 alkyl groups. The mono-long chain alkylamines may include mono-long chain alkylamidoamines. Aliphatic primary amines, aliphatic secondary amines, and aliphatic tertiary amines may be used.

[0031] Tertiary amidoamines have an alkyl group of about 19 to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amidoamines include: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, brassica amidopropyl dimethylamine, brassica amidopropyl diethylamine, brassica amidoethyl diethylamine, brassica amidoethyl dimethylamine. The amines of the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055 to Nachtigal et al.

[0032] In some examples, the conditioner composition can be substantially free or free of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, eicosamidopropyl dimethylamine, eicosamidopropyl diethylamine, eicosamidoethyl diethylamine, eicosamidoethyl dimethylamine, and / or diethylaminoethyl stearamide.

[0033] These amines are used in combination with acids such as λ-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, λ-glutamic acid hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; alternatively lactic acid, citric acid, in a molar ratio of amine to acid of from about 1:0.3 to about 1:2, or from about 1:0.4 to about 1:1. The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.25% to about 6% by weight of the acid, alternatively from about 0.4% to about 5% by weight of the acid, from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight of the acid, and alternatively from about 0.6% to about 3% by weight of the acid.

[0034] In some examples, the conditioner composition may be free of mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts.

[0035] Mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt

[0036] The mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having one long alkyl chain having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably a C18-22 alkyl group. The remaining groups attached to the nitrogen are independently selected from alkyl groups having 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamide groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups, or alkylaryl groups having up to about 4 carbon atoms.

[0037] The mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (I):

[0038]

[0039] Where R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 One of the following is selected from an alkyl group having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group, an alkoxy group, a polyoxyalkylene group, an alkylamide group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an aryl group or an alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; wherein R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 The remainder of the group is independently selected from an alkyl group of 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or an alkoxy group, polyoxyalkylene group, alkylamide group, hydroxyalkyl group, aryl group or alkylaryl group with up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X- is a salt-forming anion, such as those selected from halogen (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate and alkyl sulfonate groups. In addition to carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, the alkyl group may also contain ether bonds and / or ester bonds, as well as other groups such as amino groups. Longer chain alkyl groups, such as those of about 12 or more carbons, may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 One of the following is selected from an alkyl group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 22 carbon atoms; R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 The remainder of wherein is independently selected from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH and mixtures thereof; and X is selected from Cl, Br, CH3OSO3, C2H5OSO3, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Non-limiting examples of such mono-long chain alkyl quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt; stearyl trimethyl ammonium salt; cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt; and hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.

[0041] Di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt

[0042] When used, the di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt is alternatively combined with the mono-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and / or the mono-long chain alkylamine salt in a weight ratio of 1:1 to 1:5, alternatively 1:1.2 to 1:5, alternatively 1:1.5 to 1:4, in view of rheological stability and conditioning benefits.

[0043] The di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt may have two long alkyl chains of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Such di-long chain alkyl quaternized ammonium salt may have formula (II):

[0044]

[0045] Where R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 wherein both of R and R are selected from aliphatic groups having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 18 to 22 carbon atoms, or aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkylaryl groups having up to about 30 carbon atoms; 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 The remainder of the group is independently selected from aliphatic groups having 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, alternatively 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkylaryl groups having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X- is a salt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such as chloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In addition to carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, aliphatic groups may also contain ether bonds and other groups such as amino groups. Longer chain aliphatic groups (e.g., those having about 16 or more carbons) may be saturated or unsaturated. Alternatively, R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R7 4 are selected from alkyl groups having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively 16 to 24 carbon atoms, alternatively 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and R 71, R 72 , R 73 and R 74 The remainder of the CH3 is independently selected from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH, CH2C6H5 and mixtures thereof.

[0046] The di-long chain alkyl cationic surfactant may include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

[0047] Alkyl cation neutralized amino acid ester

[0048] The neutralized amino acid ester which is the reaction product of a neutral amino acid having a non-polar side chain and a long chain fatty alcohol is represented by the formula (HI):

[0049]

[0050] Where R 1 is a straight chain or branched alkyl group; wherein R 2 is a straight or branched carbon chain; and the amino group of the amino acid is acid neutralized. The present invention may include such materials, including those shown in U.S. Pat. Nos. 8,287,844 B2, 8,105,569 B2 and 11,207,249 B2, which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0051] Exemplary preferred neutralized amino acid esters may be brassinoyl L-isoleucine ethanesulfonate (BLIE) or leucine isostearyl ethanesulfonate (LIEE). Brassinoyl L-isoleucine ethanesulfonate (BLIE) may be derived from the esterification of brassinoyl alcohol with L-isoleucine ethanesulfonate. L-isoleucine ethanesulfonate may be prepared by reacting the amine group on isoleucine with ethanesulfonic acid. Brassinoyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol derived from the cracking of high erucic acid rapeseed oil obtained from the Brassica plant followed by hydrogenation. Brassinoyl alcohol is primarily composed of stearyl (C 18 ), eicosyl (C 20 ) and behenyl (C 22 ) alcohol and trace amounts of lower and higher alkyl chain length alcohols. In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention may include a neutralized amino acid ester selected from LIEE, BLIE, or a combination thereof. Some embodiments may include brassica valine ester ethanesulfonate (BVE).

[0052] High melting point aliphatic compounds

[0053] The composition of the present invention may include a high melting point fatty compound. In order to provide the benefits of the present invention, the high melting point fatty compound may be included in the composition at a level of about 1.0%, alternatively about 1.5%, alternatively about 2.0%, alternatively about 2.5%, even alternatively about 3%, and to about 30%, alternatively to about 15%, alternatively to about 8.0%, alternatively to about 7%, by weight of the composition.

[0054] In view of the stability of the emulsion, especially the gel network, the high melting point fatty compound may have a melting point of 25°C or higher, alternatively 40°C or higher, alternatively 45°C or higher, alternatively 47°C or higher, alternatively 49°C or higher. Alternatively, in view of easier manufacture and easier emulsification, such a melting point is at most about 90°C, alternatively at most about 80°C, alternatively at most about 75°C, and even alternatively at most about 71°C. In the present invention, the high melting point fatty compound can be used in the form of a single compound or a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds. When used in the form of such a blend or mixture, the above melting point means the melting point of the blend or mixture.

[0055] The high melting point aliphatic compound can be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof. In addition, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that, depending on the number and position of double bonds and the length and position of the side chains, certain compounds with certain desired carbon atoms may have a melting point lower than the preferred melting point above in the present invention. It is not intended that such low melting point compounds are included in this section. Non-limiting examples of high melting point compounds can be found in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", Fifth Edition, 1993 and "CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook", Second Edition, 1992.

[0056] Among the various high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcohols are alternatively used in the compositions of the present invention. The fatty alcohols may have from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and may be straight chain alcohols or branched chain alcohols.

[0057] Fatty alcohols may include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56° C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58° C. to 59° C.), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71° C.), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, when supplied, they typically have lower melting points because such supplied products are typically mixtures of fatty alcohols with a distribution of alkyl chain lengths where the alkyl backbone is a cetyl, stearyl, brassica, or behenyl group.

[0058] The fatty alcohol may be a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0059] Typically, in the mixture, the weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol is alternatively about 1:9 to 9:1, alternatively about 1:4 to about 4:1, alternatively about 1:2.3 to about 1.5:1, alternatively about 1:2 to about 1.2:1, alternatively about 1:1.2 to about 1.2:1.

[0060] In consideration of avoiding excessive thickness for promoting spreadability, when using higher levels of total cationic surfactant and high melting point fatty compound, the mixture has a weight ratio of cetyl alcohol to stearyl alcohol of alternatively from about 1: 1 to about 4: 1, alternatively from about 1: 1 to about 2: 1, alternatively from about 1.2: 1 to about 2: 1. It can also provide more conditioning on damaged parts of the hair.

[0061] Aqueous carrier

[0062] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous carrier. The content and type of the carrier may be selected based on compatibility with other components and other desired characteristics of the product.

[0063] The carrier may include water and an aqueous solution of a lower alkyl alcohol. The lower alkyl alcohol may be a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 6 carbons, alternatively ethanol and isopropanol.

[0064] Alternatively, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is alternatively used. Water from natural sources containing mineral cations may also be used, depending on the desired characteristics of the product. Typically, the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 40% to about 99%, alternatively from about 50% to about 95%, and alternatively from about 70% to about 93%, and alternatively from about 80% to about 92% water.

[0065] Dicarboxylic acid amine salt

[0066] The composition of the present invention may include a dicarboxylic acid amine salt. In view of providing the beneficial effects of the present invention, the dicarboxylic acid amine salt may be included in the composition in an amount of about 0.01% by weight, alternatively about 0.05% by weight, alternatively about 0.1% by weight, alternatively about 0.15% by weight, even alternatively about 0.2% by weight, and to about 5% by weight, alternatively to about 4% by weight, alternatively to about 3% by weight, alternatively to about 2% by weight, alternatively to about 1% by weight.

[0067] The dicarboxylic acid amine salts useful herein may be those having formula (IV):

[0068]

[0069] Where R 1 According to formula (V), C8 to C40 (Preferred C 12 To C 36 ) a straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group (preferably a saturated or alkyl group) or a fatty amide group:

[0070]

[0071] Where R 5 C8 to C 40 (Preferred C 12 To C 36 , even more preferably C 12 To C 22 ) a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group (preferably a saturated or alkyl group), n is 1 to 5, preferably 2 or 3, more preferably 3 (propylene group);

[0072] R 2 and R 3 is a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, preferably a methyl group;

[0073] Where R 4 According to formula (VI), C2 to C 40 (Preferably C3 to C 36 ) Diacid dianion (both carboxylic acid residues are ionized to carboxylate anions) residue (obtained from the neutralization of a dibasic acid):

[0074]

[0075] Where R 6 C2-C 40 (Preferably C3 to C 36 ) a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group;

[0076] wherein formula (IV) is a salt of a dicarboxylic acid and an amine, wherein the dicarboxylic acid is selected from C3 to C36 alkyl dicarboxylic acids, dilinoleic acid, C36 aliphatic alkyl dicarboxylic acids, C36 monocyclic aliphatic alkyl dicarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof; preferably, dimer dilinoleic acid; and wherein the amine is selected from: mono-long chain alkylamine; mono-long chain alkyl dimethylamine, mono-long chain alkyl amidoamine, mono-long chain alkyl amidopropyl dimethylamine, lauryl dimethylamine, hexadecyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethyl ... Aminoethyldimethylamine, rapeseedamidopropyldimethylamine, rapeseedamidopropyldiethylamine, rapeseedamidoethyldiethylamine, rapeseedamidoethyldimethylamine amines, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine and / or diethylaminoethylstearamide and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Such materials may be included in the present invention, including those dicarboxylic acid amine salts shown in US Pat. Nos. 4,548,810A and 6,723,310B2, which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0078] Preferred dicarboxylic acid amine salts may be linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate available under the trade name Necon LO-80 from Alzo International Inc (Sayreville, NJ USA), lauryl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate available under the trade name Necon DLD from Alzo International Inc (Sayreville, NJ USA), behenamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate available under the trade name Necon BD from Alzo International Inc (Sayreville, NJ USA), and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Diesters

[0080] The composition of the present invention may include a diester. In view of providing the beneficial effects of the present invention, the diester may be included in the composition in an amount of about 0.01% by weight, alternatively about 0.03% by weight, alternatively about 0.05% by weight, even alternatively about 0.1% by weight, and to about 5% by weight, alternatively to about 4% by weight, alternatively to about 3% by weight, alternatively to about 2% by weight, alternatively to about 1% by weight, even alternatively to about 0.5% by weight.

[0081] Diesters useful herein are those having formula (VII):

[0082]

[0083] Where R 7 For C1 to C 40 (Preferably C1 to C 36 , preferably C1 to C22, preferably C1 to C18, preferably C1 to C16, preferably C1 to C14, preferably C1 to C12, preferably C2 to C12, preferably C1 to C10, preferably C2 to C10) linear, cyclic or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group; wherein R 8 and R 9 For C1 to C 40 (Preferably C1 to C 36 , preferably C1 to C22, preferably C1 to C18, preferably C1 to C16, preferably C2 to C16, preferably C4 to C16, preferably C2 to C12) straight chain, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group.

[0084] The composition may comprise a diester selected from the group consisting of diheptyl succinate, diphenyl succinate, didecyl succinate, dioctyl succinate, diheptyl suberate, diphenyl suberate, didecyl suberate, diheptyl sebacate, diphenyl sebacate, didecyl sebacate, diheptyl oxalate, diphenyl oxalate, didecyl oxalate, dioctyl adipate, ditetradecyl sebacate, bis(2-ethyl-1-hexyl) adipate, and mixtures thereof, wherein the viscosity of the diester is less than about 100 cps using the cSt viscosity method described herein.

[0085] Glyceride copolymer

[0086] The composition of the present invention may include a glyceride copolymer. In view of providing the beneficial effects of the present invention, the glyceride copolymer may be included in the composition in an amount of about 0.01% by weight, alternatively about 0.03% by weight, alternatively about 0.05% by weight, even alternatively about 0.1% by weight, and to about 5% by weight, alternatively about 4% by weight, alternatively about 3% by weight, alternatively about 2% by weight, alternatively about 1% by weight, even alternatively about 0.5% by weight.

[0087] Glyceride copolymers useful herein are the reaction products of:

[0088] (i) at least one polyfunctional alcohol (preferably glycerol),

[0089] (ii) at least one polyfunctional carboxylic acid, and

[0090] (iii) at least one monofunctional carboxylic acid;

[0091] wherein the polyfunctional alcohol contains from about two to about ten carbon atoms (preferably glycerol); the polyfunctional carboxylic acid contains from one to about thirty-six carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); the monofunctional carboxylic acid contains from four to about twenty-four carbon atoms (preferably octanoic acid); and the polyol polyester polymer has a dynamic viscosity of from about 200 centipoise to about 5000 centipoise at 25°C and a hydroxyl value of from about 40 mg KOH / g to about 300 mg KOH / g.

[0092] The viscosity of the glyceride copolymers was determined herein using ASTM D-2270, and the hydroxyl value was determined using a modified version of AOCS (American Oil Chemists Society, Champaign, IL, USA) official method number Cd 13-60.

[0093] The glyceride copolymers of the present invention include those complex polyol polyester polymers shown in U.S. Pat. No. 7,317,068 B2, which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0094] A preferred glyceride copolymer may be caprylylglycerol / sebacic acid copolymer, which is the reaction product of glycerol, sebacic acid and caprylic acid and is available under the trade name Vellaplex TM MB, Lexfilm TM Sun Natural MB, Lipfeel TM Natural MB, Lexfeel TM N5 MB, Lexfeel TM N20 MB, Lexfeel TM N50 MB, Lexfeel TM N100 MB, Lexfeel TM N200 MB, Lexfeel TM N350 MB was purchased from Inolex (Philadelphia, PA, USA), and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Vegetable oil or wax

[0096] The composition of the present invention may also include a vegetable oil or wax. The vegetable oil or wax is selected from the group consisting of: natural oils from plants and / or vegetables, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, Brazilian nut oil, argan oil, almond oil, apricot oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, meadowfoam seed oil, deep sea two-joint oil, castor oil, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower oil, beeswax, bayberry wax, orange wax, carnauba wax and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Additional components

[0098] The compositions of the present invention may contain other additional components which may be selected by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the final product and which are suitable for making the compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or providing them with additional benefits of use. Such other additional components are generally used individually at a level of from about 0.001% to about 10%, alternatively up to about 5%, by weight of the composition.

[0099] A variety of other additional components may be formulated into the compositions of the present invention. These include: other conditioning agents such as aloe vera gel; aloe barbadensis leaf juice; kelp extract; natural oils and waxes including shea butter, safflower oil, cocoa butter, orange peel wax, olive oil, macadamia seed oil, evening primrose oil, crambe seed oil, nut oil, camelina oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, argan oil, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, neem oil, linseed oil, castor oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, beeswax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, and soy wax; essential oils that may be used in fragrances, such as lime peel oil, lavender oil, peppermint oil, cedar oil, tea tree oil, ylang ylang oil, and coensage oil; essential oils that may be used in fragrances, such as lavender oil, peppermint oil, cedar oil, tea tree oil, ylang ylang oil, and coensage oil; essential oils that may be used in fragrances, such as saffron peel oil, ... 2000 hydrolyzed collagen available from Hormel, vitamin E available from Eisai under the trade name Emix-d, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts and nutrients; pH adjusters such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, generally speaking, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; colorants such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; fragrances; and chelating agents such as disodium EDTA; and UV and IR screeners and absorbers such as octylsalicylate; antioxidants including: rosemary, tocopherol, vitamin E, vitamin A, tea extract and hydroxyacetophenone (available under the trade name H was purchased from ); amino acids include histidine, 1-arginine, etc.

[0100] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.2 wt % to about 1.5 wt % of the preservative system, alternatively from about 0.3 wt % to about 1.25 wt % of the preservative system, alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 1 wt % of the preservative system, alternatively from about 0.5 wt % to about 0.8 wt % of the preservative system, and alternatively from about 0.6 wt % to about 0.8 wt % of the preservative system.

[0101] The conditioner composition may include from about 0.05% to about 0.8% by weight of a first preservative such as sodium benzoate, alternatively from 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight of sodium benzoate, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 0.4% by weight of sodium benzoate. The conditioner composition may contain sodium benzoate, and may contain less than 2% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 1.5% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 1% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 0.8% sodium benzoate, alternatively less than 0.6% by weight of sodium benzoate, and alternatively less than 0.5% sodium benzoate.

[0102] The preservative system may contain from about 20% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, alternatively from about 25% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, from about 30% to about 50% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system, and from about 30% to about 40% sodium benzoate by weight of the preservative system.

[0103] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.3 wt % to about 1.5 wt %, alternatively from about 0.32 wt % to about 1 wt %, alternatively from about 0.33 wt % to about 0.8 wt %, alternatively from about 0.34 wt % to about 0.6 wt %, alternatively from about 0.35 wt % to about 0.5 wt %, alternatively from about 0.37 wt % to about 0.45 wt %, and alternatively from about 0.38 wt % to about 0.43 wt % of a second preservative such as a glycol and / or glyceride. If the conditioner composition contains too much glycol and / or glyceride, the gel network structure may be disrupted and the conditioner will not have rheology and / or performance acceptable to consumers.

[0104] The preservative system may comprise from about 50% to about 80% by weight of the preservative system, alternatively from about 50% to about 75% by weight of the preservative system, alternatively from about 50% to about 70% by weight of the preservative system, and alternatively from about 50% to about 67% by weight of the preservative system of a second preservative.

[0105] The weight ratio of sodium benzoate to the second preservative may be about 1:4 to about 1:1, alternatively about 1:3 to about 1:1, alternatively about 1:2 to about 1:1, and alternatively about 1:1.7 to about 1:1.

[0106] The conditioner composition may have a shear stress of from about 50 Pa to about 600 Pa, alternatively from about 75 Pa to about 575 Pa, alternatively from about 100 Pa to about 565 Pa, alternatively from about 105 Pa to about 550 Pa, alternatively from about 120 Pa to about 500 Pa, and alternatively from about 125 Pa to about 450 Pa. Shear stress may be determined using the Shear Stress Test Method described below.

[0107] The pH of the conditioner composition may be less than 5. Alternatively, the pH of the conditioner composition may be from about 2.5 to about 5, alternatively from 3.5 to about 4.5. The pH may be determined using the pH Test Method described below.

[0108] spices

[0109] The conditioner compositions disclosed herein may contain perfume, which may be referred to as perfume accords.The perfume may be suitable for application to the hair or the skin.

[0110] The conditioner composition may contain from about 0.1 wt % to about 5 wt %, alternatively from about 0.2 wt % to about 3 wt %, alternatively from about 0.3 wt % to about 4 wt %, alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 2.5 wt %, alternatively from about 0.5 wt % to about 2 wt %, alternatively from about 0.6 wt % to about 1.5 wt %, alternatively from about 0.6 wt % to about 1.2 wt %, and alternatively from about 0.7 wt % to about 1 wt % fragrance, based on the weight of the composition.

[0111] A variety of chemicals are known for fragrance (i.e., perfume) applications, including materials such as aldehydes, ketones, and esters. More generally, naturally occurring plant and animal oils and exudates containing complex mixtures of various chemical components are known for use as fragrances. A perfume may be relatively simple in its composition, containing a single chemical, or may contain a highly complex, complex mixture of natural and synthetic chemical components, all of which are selected to provide any desired odor.

[0112] The perfume raw materials of the present composition may have a boiling point (BP) of about 500°C or less, alternatively about 400°C or less, alternatively about 350°C or less. The BP of many perfume raw materials is given in Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals), Steffen Arctander (1969). The C log P value of the perfume raw materials useful herein may be greater than 0.1, alternatively greater than about 0.5, alternatively greater than about 1.0, alternatively greater than about 1.2.

[0113] Soluble anti-dandruff actives

[0114] The soluble anti-dandruff agent may be a material or mixture selected from the group consisting of azoles such as climbazole, ketoconazole, itraconazole, econazole and conazole dihydroxypyridones such as piroctone olamine, ciclopirox, lilopirox and MEA-hydroxyoctoxypyridone; keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid and other hydroxy acids; strobilurins such as azoxystrobin; and metal chelators such as 1,10-phenanthroline; and hinokitiol.

[0115] The azole antimicrobial can be an imidazole, which is selected from the group consisting of benzimidazole, benzothiazole, bifonazole, butoconazole nitrate, climbazole, clotrimazole, kruconazole, eberconazole, econazole, new conazole, fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutriazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole, ranoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole, oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, sulconazole nitrate, tioconazole, thiazole and their mixture, or the azole antimicrobial is a triazole, which is selected from the group consisting of terconazole, itraconazole and their mixture. The azole antimicrobial can be ketoconazole. The only antimicrobial can be ketoconazole.

[0116] The soluble anti-dandruff agent may be present in an amount of about 0.1% to 10%, in another embodiment about 0.25% to 8%, in yet another embodiment about 0.5% to 6%. Alternatively, the soluble anti-dandruff agent may be present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 2%, alternatively about 0.15% to about 1.5%, alternatively about 0.2% to about 1%, alternatively about 0.2% to about 0.75%, alternatively about 0.25% to 0.5%.

[0117] Granular anti-dandruff agent

[0118] The conditioner composition may also include one or more particulate anti-dandruff agents. A safe and effective amount of an anti-dandruff active for controlling dandruff of the scalp is used. Particulate anti-dandruff agents include, for example, sulfur, selenium sulfide, and pyridinethione salts. Preferred are heavy metal salts of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione and selenium disulfide. The particulate anti-dandruff agent is in crystalline form and is insoluble in the composition. Generally speaking, the particulate anti-dandruff agent may be present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably about 0.3% to about 2%, by weight of the composition. The specific amount used is not critical, as long as a safe and effective amount is used to control dandruff when the composition is used to condition hair.

[0119] Product form

[0120] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of a rinse-off product or a leave-on product, and may be formulated into a variety of product forms including, but not limited to, creams, gels, lotions, mousses, and sprays.

[0121] The conditioning compositions of the present invention are particularly suitable for use as rinse-off hair conditioners. Such compositions are alternatively used according to the following steps:

[0122] (i) applying an effective amount of a conditioning composition to the hair for conditioning the hair after shampooing; and

[0123] (ii) The hair is then rinsed.

[0124] Test Method

[0125] Bacterial Microbiological Susceptibility Test Methods

[0126] Bacterial microbial susceptibility testing is used to evaluate the antimicrobial effectiveness of preservative systems in cosmetic rinse-off conditioners.

[0127] The bacterial pool (mixture of equal volumes) of the challenge organisms used in the test consisted of strains Escherichia coli (ATCC#8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC#6538), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC#9027), Burkholderia cepacia (ATCC#25416) isolated from cosmetic products, and standard solutions of Klebsiella pneumoniae, Enterobacter gergoviae, and Serratia marcescens strains. The bacterial pool was prepared to have a concentration of approximately 6 log cfu / ml-8 log cfu / ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the bacterial pool was added to 10.0 g of the test conditioner. The test conditioner was then incubated at 20°C-25°C for 2 days. After incubation, 1.5% polysorbate 80 (can be used as 80 purchased from Croda TM ) and 1% lecithin in Modified Letheen Broth to aid in microbial recovery / enumeration. This sample was then transferred to a 1.0 g aliquot containing 1% lecithin in multiple dilutions. 80% Modified Letheen Agar in a petri dish and incubate the agar plate at 30°C-35°C for at least 2 days. The bacterial colony forming units (cfu) are then counted and the bacterial log reduction from the initial log cfu / g challenge level is reported.

[0128] A 1 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 90% bacterial reduction. A 2 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99% bacterial reduction. A 3 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.9% bacterial reduction. A 4 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.99% bacterial reduction. Greater log cfu / g reduction values ​​indicate greater antimicrobial robustness of the preservation system.

[0129] Fungal microbial sensitivity test method:

[0130] The fungal microbial susceptibility test is used to evaluate the antifungal effectiveness of preservative systems in cosmetic rinse-off conditioners.

[0131] Standardized ATCC strains of yeast Candida albicans (ATCC #10231) and mold Aspergillus brasiliensis (frm. niger) (ATCC #16404) were mixed in a 1:1 (v:v) ratio and this fungus pool was used as inoculum in the test. The concentration of the fungus pool was approximately 6 log cfu / ml-8 log cfu / ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the fungus pool was added to 10.0 g of the test conditioner. After incubating the inoculated samples at 20°C-25°C for 2 days, the inoculated samples were incubated with 1.5% 1.0 g aliquots of the product were neutralized with Modified Letheen Broth with 1% Tween 80 and 1% lecithin to aid in microbial recovery / enumeration. Multiple dilutions of this sample were then transferred to petri dishes containing Modified Letheen Agar with 1.5% Tween 80 and the agar plates were incubated at 20°C-25°C for at least 5 days, at which time the fungal colony forming units (cfu) were then counted and the fungal log reduction from the initial log cfu / g challenge level was calculated.

[0132] A 1 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 90% fungal reduction. A 2 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99% fungal reduction. A 3 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.9% fungal reduction. A 4 log cfu / g reduction is equal to about 99.99% fungal reduction. Larger log cfu / g reduction values ​​indicate greater antifungal robustness of the preservation system.

[0133] Differential Scanning Calorimetry

[0134] The melting transition behavior and temperature of the gel network can be obtained using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to the following method. Using a TA Instruments Q2000 DSC, approximately 15 mg of the gel network premix or the final conditioner composition containing the gel network was placed in a Tzero aluminum sealed DSC pan. The sample was placed in the instrument along with an empty reference pan. The samples were analyzed using the following condition / temperature program: nitrogen purge at a rate of 50.0 mL / min; equilibration at 20.00°C; sampling interval 0.10 sec / pt; equilibration at 5.00°C; isothermal duration 1.00 min; ramp down to 80.00°C at 5.00°C / min. The resulting DSC data were analyzed using TA Instruments Universal Analysis Software.

[0135] The use of DSC to measure the melting transition behavior and temperature of gel networks is further described in T. de Vringer et al., Colloid and Polymer Science, Vol. 265, 448-457 (1987); and HM Ribeiro et al., Intl. J. of Cosmetic Science, Vol. 26, 47-59 (2004).

[0136] pH Method

[0137] First, calibrate the Mettler Toledo Seven compact pH meter. This is done by starting the pH meter and waiting 30 seconds. Then remove the electrode from the storage solution, rinse the electrode with distilled water, and clean it with a scientific cleaning wipe such as Carefully wipe the electrode. Immerse the electrode in pH 4 buffer and press the Calibration button. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the Calibration button again. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and wipe the electrode carefully with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then immerse the electrode in pH 7 buffer and press the Calibration button again. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the Calibration button a third time. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and wipe the electrode carefully with a scientific cleaning wipe. Then immerse the electrode in pH 10 buffer and press the Calibration button a third time. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and press the Measure button. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and wipe it carefully with a scientific cleaning wipe.

[0138] Immerse the electrode in the test sample and press the read button. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and record the value.

[0139] Viscosity from flow curve measurements

[0140] The viscosity of the hair conditioner was measured using a rheometer model DHR-3 available from TA Instruments using shear rate sweep conditions. The plate is called a Peltier plate. The temperature of the plate was maintained at 25°C. The geometry had a 40 mm diameter, a 2° cone angle, and a 55 μm gap. The shear rate ramp was between 0.1 1 / s and 1100 1 / s. Report 2s -1 and 950s -1 The viscosity at the shear rate.

[0141] Shear stress

[0142] Shear stress was measured using a rheometer model DHR-3 available from TA Instruments using shear rate sweep conditions. The plate is called a Peltier plate. The temperature of the plate was maintained at 25°C. The geometry had a 40 mm diameter, a 2° cone angle, and a 55 μm gap. The shear rate ramp was between 0.1 1 / s and 1100 1 / s. The measurements were taken at 950 s -1 Shear stress at high shear rates.

[0143] X-ray diffraction method

[0144] SAXS (Small Angle X-ray Scattering) is used to confirm the presence of a multilayer phase and WAXS (Wide Angle X-ray Scattering) is used to distinguish between Lα (liquid) and Lβ (solid) crystalline structures to verify the presence of a characteristic dispersed gel network phase of the personal conditioning composition.

[0145] d-spacing of lamellar gel networks (Lβ-substrate spacing)

[0146] Small angle x-ray scattering ("SAXS"), used to resolve periodic structures in mesophases, is essentially an x-ray diffraction technique. It is used in conjunction with conventional wide angle x-ray scattering ("WAXS") to characterize aggregate structures such as micelles, gel networks, lamellae, hexagonal and cubic liquid crystals. Different mesophases showing periodic structures can be characterized by the relative positions (d-spacings) of their reflections, as derived from the Bragg equation (d = λ / 2 Sin θ), where d represents the inter-plane spacing, λ represents the wavelength of the radiation and θ represents the scattering (diffraction) angle.

[0147] The one-dimensional lamellar gel network phase is characterized by ratios of interplanar spacings d1 / d1, d1 / d2, d1 / d3, d1 / d4, d1 / d5 with values ​​of 1:2:3:4:5, etc. in the SAXS region (long-range order) and by a broad halo background with a wavelength of about 1. and One or two invariant reflections in the centered WAXS region (short range). Other mesophases (e.g. hexagonal or cubic) will have characteristically different d-spacing ratios.

[0148] SAXS data were collected with a Bruker NanoSTAR small angle x-ray scattering instrument. A microfocus Cu x-ray tube was operated at 50 kV, 0.60 mA with a 550 um ScanTex pinhole. The distance between the sample and the detector was 107.39 cm, and the detector was a Vantec2K 2-dimensional area detector. The sample was sealed in a capillary and analyzed under vacuum with an analysis time of 600 s.

[0149] The values ​​of d-spacing (Lβ-substrate spacing) of the lamellar gel networks reported here were obtained using the first-order SAXS reflections, i.e., the d1 spacing.

[0150] WAXS confirms (combined with SAXS) the presence of an Lβ gel network

[0151] Wide angle data (WAXS) were collected on a Stoe STADI-MP diffractometer. The generator was operated at 40 kV / 40 mA to power a copper anode long fine focus Cu x-ray tube. The diffractometer included an incident beam bending germanium crystal monochromator, a standard incident beam slit system, and a Mythen PSD detector. Data were collected in transmission mode over the range of 0° to 50° 2θ with a step size of 3° 2θ and 15 seconds per step.

[0152] With close The WAXS pattern of reflections combined with the lamellar reflections seen in SAXS indicates the presence of an Lβ gel network.

[0153] granularity :Optical Microscope Image Method

[0154] The conditioner compositions were examined under an Olympus BX61 microscope using an Olympus DP72 camera (ISO 200, exposure 3s) with lamp intensity 10V and air as refractive index (1.003). Microscope pictures were taken with both 10x and 50x objectives. Bright field and polarizing filters were used to detect the particle size of the non-silicone hair conditioner composition and the gel network formation of the conditioner composition. Olympus cellSense was used as software for imaging analysis.

[0155] Example

[0156] The following are non-limiting examples of conditioner compositions described herein. It is understood that other modifications of the present invention may be made within the purview of those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

[0157] Unless otherwise indicated, all parts, percentages and ratios herein are by weight. Some components may be obtained from suppliers as dilute solutions. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown reflect the weight percentage of the added material.

[0158] The example was prepared as follows. Sodium benzoate and λ-glutamic acid were dissolved in water. The mixture was heated to 80°C. Then, a cationic surfactant and a fatty alcohol (FAOH) were added to the mixture. Next, the mixture was cooled while continuing to dissolve the cationic surfactant and fatty alcohol. Then, when the temperature was below 45°C, additional preservatives were added, followed by oils and fragrances. The composition was cooled to room temperature to prepare a conditioner composition.

[0159] After the L-base lamellar gel network is formed, the non-silicone hair conditioning composition is incorporated into the conditioner composition.

[0160] Table 1. Composition Example

[0161]

[0162]

[0163] Table 2. Comparative Composition Examples

[0164]

[0165]

[0166] Table 3. Composition Example

[0167]

[0168]

[0169] Table 4. Composition Example

[0170]

[0171]

[0172] Table 5. Composition Example

[0173]

[0174]

[0175] Table 6. Composition Example

[0176]

[0177]

[0178] Table 7. Comparative Composition Examples

[0179]

[0180]

[0181] Table 8. Comparative composition examples of non-silicone hair conditioners

[0182]

[0183]

[0184] Table 9. Composition examples of non-silicone hair conditioners

[0185]

[0186]

[0187] Table 10. Composition examples of non-silicone hair conditioners

[0188]

[0189]

[0190] Table 11. Comparative and Compositional Examples

[0191]

[0192]

[0193]

[0194]

[0195] 1. Behenylaminopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) TM BD), purchased from

[0196] 2. L-glutamic acid: can be purchased from

[0197] 3. Cetyl alcohol, 95% active substance content by weight, available from Procter &

[0198] 4. Stearyl alcohol, 97% active substance content by weight, available from Procter &

[0199] 5. Sodium benzoate, available from get

[0200] 6. Decanediol Available from

[0201] 7. Octanediol, 50% active substance by weight, available under the trade name CG purchased from

[0202] 8. 1,2-Hexanediol, 50% active substance by weight, available under the trade name CG purchased from

[0203] 9. Linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate (Necon TM LO-80), available from Alzo

[0204] 10. Diheptyl succinate, 45% active substance content by weight, available under the trade name LexFeel TM N350 MB purchased from 98% active substance content by weight, available under the trade name LexFeel TM N5 MB was purchased from

[0205] 11. Caprylylglycerol / sebacic acid copolymer, 55% active substance content by weight, available under the trade name LexFeel TM N350MB purchased from

[0206] 12. Diheptyl succinate, 100% active substance by weight, available under the trade name Sustoleo TM DCS purchased from

[0207] The ratios, viscosities and particle sizes of the non-silicone hair conditioning materials may be as follows:

[0208] Wherein (b) is a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) is a diester; and (d) is a glyceride copolymer, the ratio of (b):(c) may be from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and in some embodiments, from about 9:1 to about 1:7. The ratio of (d):(c) may be from about 10:1 to about 1:10, and in some embodiments, from about 9:1 to about 1:7. The ratio of (b):(d) may be from about 20:1 to about 1:20, and in some embodiments, from about 10:1 to about 1:10. In Comparative Example 18 of Table 8, the ratio of b:c is 20, and is outside the range of the 10:1 to 1:10 ratio of the present invention. The ratios of the materials in Tables 9 and 10 are within the range of the present invention.

[0209] The viscosity of the composition of non-silicone hair conditioning materials (dicarboxylic acid amine salt + diester + glyceride copolymer) can be less than 5000 at 9501 / s (high shear rate), and in some embodiments less than 4500 at 9501 / s. In Comparative Example 18 of Table 8, the viscosity of the three materials is greater than 5000 at 9501 / s, while for the combinations of the present invention in Tables 9 and 10, the viscosity is less than 5000 at 9501 / s.

[0210] When uniformly suspended in the L-base lamellar gel network, the particle size of the non-silicone hair conditioning material (dicarboxylic acid amine salt + diester + glyceride copolymer) can be less than 100 microns, and in some embodiments less than 50 microns, as measured by the optical microscopy imaging method described herein. Table 11 shows the particle size of Comparative Example 19 (greater than 100 microns) compared to the particle size of Inventive Examples 41 to 46 (less than 100 microns).

[0211] Preparation method :

[0212] Preferably, the composition is prepared by the following method:

[0213] The water is typically heated to at least about 70°C, preferably between about 80°C and about 90°C. The cationic surfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are mixed with water to form a mixture. The temperature of the mixture is preferably maintained at a temperature above the melting temperature of the cationic surfactant and the melting temperature of the high melting point fatty compound, and the entire mixture is homogenized. After mixing until no solids are observed, the mixture is gradually cooled (e.g., at a rate of about 1°C / min to about 5°C / min) to a temperature below 60°C, preferably below about 55°C. During this gradual cooling process, a significant viscosity increase is observed between about 55°C and about 75°C. This indicates the formation of a gel matrix. A high molecular weight water-soluble cationic polymer may be added to the mixture under stirring at about 55°C, or added before cooling. The additional components are then mixed with the gel matrix and cooled to room temperature.

[0214] After the L-base lamellar gel network is formed, the non-silicone hair conditioning composition is incorporated into the conditioner composition.

[0215] combination

[0216] A. A hair conditioner composition, comprising:

[0217] (a) L-basal lamellar gel network;

[0218] (b) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt;

[0219] (c) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a diester;

[0220] (d) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of a glyceride copolymer;

[0221] The composition has a shear stress of about 40 Pa to about 800 Pa at 950 1 / s.

[0222] B. The composition according to paragraph A, further comprising from about 0.1 wt % to about 15 wt % of a natural oil or wax selected from the group consisting of natural oils from plants and vegetables, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, Brazilian nut oil, argan oil, almond oil, apricot oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, meadowfoam seed oil, deep sea two-joint oil, castor oil, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower oil, beeswax, bayberry wax, orange wax, carnauba wax and mixtures thereof.

[0223] C. A composition according to paragraphs A and B, wherein the L-based lamellar gel network comprises (a) an aqueous carrier; (b) from about 0.1 wt % to about 20 wt % of a cationic surfactant; and (c) from about 0.1 wt % to about 20 wt % of a fatty alcohol.

[0224] D. A composition according to paragraphs A to C, wherein the L-basal lamellar gel network has a d-spacing of about 5 nm to about 50 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (L-basal spacing) according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method.

[0225] E. A composition according to paragraphs A to D, wherein the dicarboxylic acid amine salt is the reaction product of a dicarboxylic acid and an amine;

[0226] a wherein the dicarboxylic acid is selected from C36 aliphatic alkyl dicarboxylic acid, C36 monocyclic aliphatic alkyl dicarboxylic acid, dilinoleic acid and mixtures thereof;

[0227] b. Wherein the amine is selected from: mono-long chain alkylamine; mono-long chain alkyl dimethylamine, mono-long chain alkyl amidoamine, mono-long chain alkyl amidopropyl dimethylamine, lauryl dimethylamine, hexadecyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenylamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenylamidopropyl diethylamine, behenylamidoethyl diethylamine, behenylamidoethyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oleamidopropyl diethylamine, rapeseed oleamidoethyl Diethylamine, rapeseed amide ethyl dimethylamine amines, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl diethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl diethylamine, arachidamidoethyl dimethylamine and / or diethylaminoethyl stearamide.

[0228] F. A composition according to paragraphs A to E, wherein the dicarboxylic acid amine salt is selected from linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, lauryl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, hexadecyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] G. A composition according to paragraphs A to F, wherein the diester has the following formula (VII):

[0230]

[0231] Where R 7 For C1 to C 36 A straight chain, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group; wherein R 8 and R 9 For C1 to C 22 Straight chain, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group.

[0232] H. A composition according to paragraphs A to G, wherein the diester is selected from the group consisting of diheptyl succinate, diphenyl succinate, didecyl succinate, dioctyl succinate, diheptyl suberate, diphenyl suberate, didecyl suberate, diheptyl sebacate, diphenyl sebacate, didecyl sebacate, diheptyl oxalate, diphenyl oxalate, didecyl oxalate, dioctyl adipate, ditetradecyl sebacate, bis(2-ethyl-1-hexyl) adipate, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] I. The composition of paragraphs A to H, wherein the viscosity of the diester is less than about 100 cps.

[0234] J. The composition of paragraphs A to I, wherein the glyceride copolymer is the reaction product of (a) a polyfunctional alcohol, (b) a polyfunctional carboxylic acid, and (c) a monocarboxylic acid.

[0235] K. A composition according to paragraph J, wherein the multifunctional alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, tripentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, butylethylpropylene glycol, and derivatives and combinations thereof.

[0236] L. A composition according to paragraphs J and K, wherein the multifunctional carboxylic acid is selected from the group consisting of carbonic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and derivatives and combinations thereof.

[0237] M. A composition according to paragraphs J to L, wherein the monocarboxylic acid is selected from the group consisting of isobutyric acid, benzoic acid, nonanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, decanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, 2-methylbutyric acid, isovaleric acid, valeric acid, 2-methylvaleric acid, 2-methylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, undecylenic acid, isolauric acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid, and derivatives and combinations thereof.

[0238] N. The composition of paragraphs A to M, wherein the glyceride copolymer is the reaction product of (a) glycerol, (b) sebacic acid, and (c) caprylic acid.

[0239] O. The composition of paragraphs A to N, wherein the glyceride copolymer has a viscosity of about 200 cps to about 5000 cps.

[0240] P. The composition according to paragraphs A to O, wherein the glyceride copolymer has a hydroxyl value of about 40 mg KOH / g to about 300 mg KOH / g as measured by AOCS (American Oil Chemists Society, Champaign, IL, USA) official method Cd 13-60.

[0241] Q. A method of conditioning hair using the hair conditioner composition according to paragraphs A to P.

Claims

1. A hair conditioner composition, comprising: (a) L-basal lamellar gel network; (b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of a dicarboxylic acid amine salt; (c) 0.01 to 5% by weight of a diester; (d) 0.01 to 5% by weight of a glyceride copolymer; The composition has a shear stress of 40 Pa to 800 Pa at 950 1 / s.

2. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising 0.1 to 15 wt% of a natural oil or wax selected from the group consisting of natural oils from plants and vegetables, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, nut oil, argan oil, almond oil, apricot oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, avocado oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, camellia oil, moringa oil, meadowfoam seed oil, deep sea camellia oil, castor oil, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower oil, beeswax, bayberry wax, orange wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the L-based lamellar gel network comprises (a) an aqueous carrier; (b) 0.1 wt % to 20 wt % of a cationic surfactant; and (c) 0.1 wt % to 20 wt % of a fatty alcohol.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the L-basal lamellar gel network has a d-spacing of 5 nm to 50 nm, as measured by the d-spacing (L-basal spacing) according to the Lamellar Gel Network Test Method.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the dicarboxylic acid amine salt is selected from the group consisting of linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, lauryl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, hexadecyl dimethylamine dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the diester is selected from the group consisting of diheptyl succinate, diphenyl succinate, didecyl succinate, dioctyl succinate, diheptyl suberate, diphenyl suberate, didecyl suberate, diheptyl sebacate, diphenyl sebacate, didecyl sebacate, diheptyl oxalate, diphenyl oxalate, didecyl oxalate, dioctyl adipate, ditetradecyl sebacate, bis(2-ethyl-1-hexyl) adipate, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the glyceride copolymer is a reaction product of (a) a polyfunctional alcohol, (b) a polyfunctional carboxylic acid, and (c) a monocarboxylic acid.

8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the multifunctional alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, tripentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, butylethylpropylene glycol, and derivatives and combinations thereof.

9. The composition of claim 7, wherein the multifunctional carboxylic acid is selected from the group consisting of carbonic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and derivatives and combinations thereof.

10. The composition of claim 7, wherein the monocarboxylic acid is selected from the group consisting of isobutyric acid, benzoic acid, nonanoic acid, 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, decanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, 2-methylbutyric acid, isovaleric acid, valeric acid, 2-methylvaleric acid, 2-methylhexanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, undecylenic acid, isolauric acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid, and derivatives and combinations thereof.

11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the glyceride copolymer is the reaction product of (a) glycerol, (b) sebacic acid, and (c) caprylic acid.

12. A method of conditioning hair using the hair conditioner composition of claim 1.

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the viscosity of the mixture of (b), (c) and (d) is less than 5000 at 950 1 / s.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the ratio of (b):(c) is from 10:1 to 1:10; the ratio of (d):(c) is from 10:1 to 1:10; and the ratio of (b):(d) is from 20:1 to 1:

20.

15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the mixture of (b), (c) and (d) has a particle size of less than 100 microns when suspended in the L-matrix lamellar gel network.

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