Anti-wrinkle linen blended woven fabric and production method thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to an anti-wrinkle flax blended woven fabric and a production method. High-quality flax blended yarn is spun by optimizing the mixing ratio of raw materials and the spinning process. The weave structure adopts a double-layer structure and is arranged at intervals in the Z twist direction and the S twist direction, so that the interlayer connection stability is enhanced, and the fabric is endowed with good elastic restoring force and crease resistance; during weaving, efficient production of the fabric is ensured by adding specially-made wax blocks and optimizing a looming process. The developed fabric has the advantages of moisture absorption, air permeability, light and full hand feeling, smooth and stiff appearance and good shape retention, overcomes the problem that pure linen fabric is easy to wrinkle, and expands the application scene.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of blended woven fabrics and relates to a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric and a production method. Background Art

[0002] As consumers' requirements for the performance of clothing fabrics are increasing, although traditional hemp fabrics have unique advantages, such as natural antibacterial, moisture-absorbing and breathable, and UV-resistant properties, pure hemp fibers have inherent disadvantages such as high fiber stiffness, low elasticity, easy wrinkling, and obvious itching. Flax fiber is widely used in the textile field due to its excellent moisture-absorbing and breathable, antibacterial and mildew-proof properties and environmental protection. However, it has its own defects such as strong fiber rigidity, poor elasticity, and easy wrinkling, which seriously limit the application of linen fabrics in high-end clothing and daily wear. The current market is in urgent need of fabrics that have both the excellent properties of natural fibers and good wrinkle resistance. It is very necessary to develop new linen blended woven fabrics. Summary of the invention

[0003] Aiming at the problems that pure flax fiber has high rigidity, low elasticity, and is difficult to spin and weave, the present invention provides a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric and a production method.

[0004] The technical solution of the present invention is as follows:

[0005] A method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0006] Step 1: Mixing of raw materials

[0007] The present invention uses flax fiber, elastic fiber (such as spandex, polyester elastic fiber, etc.) and silk fiber and modal fiber with soft and skin-friendly properties as raw materials. Through experimental screening, it is determined that the optimal blending ratio of flax fiber, elastic fiber, silk fiber and modal fiber is 50-60%: 20-25%: 20-25%: 10-20%. Within this ratio range, flax fiber ensures that the fabric retains moisture absorption, breathability and antibacterial properties, elastic fiber gives the fabric excellent elasticity and wrinkle resistance, effectively making up for the shortcoming of flax fiber that is easy to wrinkle, and modal and silk fibers significantly improve the feel of the fabric and enhance the wearing comfort.

[0008] Step 2: Yarn Spinning

[0009] Abandoning traditional ring spinning, the current efficient jet vortex spinning technology is used for yarn formation. First, the flax fiber, elastic fiber and modal fiber are accurately weighed according to the predetermined ratio and placed in a cotton blending machine to be evenly mixed by airflow; the flax fiber is pretreated and treated with biological enzymes to moderately degrade pectin and lignin, reduce fiber rigidity, and improve softness and spinnability. When spinning, the flax fiber is first made into a net separately, and then the flax fiber net, silk strips and modal strips are weighed and mixed to make uniform cooked strips. The cooked strips and elastic fiber yarns are then fed into the jet vortex spinning equipment, and the high-speed rotating airflow is used to further condense the fibers and arrange the fibers tightly and orderly, and spin them into flax blended yarns with uniform strands, high strength and wear resistance.

[0010] Furthermore, the second step is specifically as follows:

[0011] Flax fiber biological enzyme (cellulase and pectinase complex) was treated at 40-45℃ for 60-90min. Flax fiber, silk fiber and modal fiber were first made into mature slivers, and then jet vortex spinning (nozzle pressure 0.4MPa, spinning speed 350m / min) was performed into yarn.

[0012] Step 3: Fabric structure

[0013] Uniquely designed double-layer structure. The surface layer uses plain or twill weave to highlight the smooth and smooth appearance and stable structure of the fabric; the inner layer uses warp-heavy plain weave to increase the thickness and weight of the fabric, improve warmth retention and drape. The key is that the two layers of indirect yarns are arranged in Z twist and S twist directions to enhance the stability of the interlayer connection and give the fabric good elastic recovery and wrinkle resistance. The warp and weft interlacing points are evenly distributed to reduce stress concentration and the probability of wrinkles, ensuring comfortable wearing and a long-lasting and smooth appearance.

[0014] The third step is specifically performed as follows:

[0015] The fabric structure is designed as a double-layer structure, with the surface layer using plain weave (warp density 480 strands / 10cm, weft density 240 strands / 10cm), the inner layer using warp-heavy plain weave (warp density 460 strands / 10cm, weft density 220 strands / 10cm), the connecting fiber bundles (fineness 0.8-1.0dtex) are distributed at intervals of 10-12cm, Z twist and S twist alternate, and the twist is 60-80 twists / 10cm.

[0016] The fabric structure is designed as a double-layer structure, with the surface layer using twill weave (warp density 470 strands / 10cm, weft density 260 strands / 10cm), the inner layer using warp weight plain weave (warp density 450 strands / 10cm, weft density 220 strands / 10cm), the connecting fiber bundles (fineness 0.8-1.0dtex) are distributed at intervals of 10-12cm, Z twist and S twist alternate, and the twist is 60-80 twists / 10cm.

[0017] Step 4: Weaving process

[0018] In the warping process, since the warp and weft yarns of the invented fabric are both linen blended yarns and are elastic, and since the yarns are stiffer than pure cotton yarns and have elastic shrinkage, warping is difficult. The main measures taken for this are: increasing the warping tension by 15-20%, reducing the angle between the warp yarn and the reed, and moistening the reed at regular intervals during warping to improve the softness of the yarn and ensure uniform warping tension. The angle between the warp yarn and the reed is controlled between 40 and 45 degrees, and it is set to automatically moisten every 10 minutes; the warping speed is kept at a relatively small speed, and the warping speed is set to 400-500 meters / minute.

[0019] In the weaving process, Picanol GTMax rapier loom is used for weaving. Since the warp yarn is not treated with sizing, in order to further improve the wear resistance of the warp yarn and improve the weaving efficiency, a special wax block is placed at the unwinding position of the weaving beam. Other weaving process parameters: machine speed 360rpm, comprehensive flat time 300-310 degrees, workshop relative humidity 80-85%.

[0020] The invention discloses a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric obtained by adopting a production method of wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric. The fabric has a double-layer structure, is alternately arranged in Z twist direction and S twist direction, enhances the stability of interlayer connection, has good elastic recovery force and wrinkle resistance; the fabric is moisture-absorbent and breathable, feels light and full, has a smooth and crisp appearance, and has good shape retention.

[0021] Beneficial effects of the present invention:

[0022] The present invention relates to an anti-wrinkle flax blended woven fabric and a production method. High-quality flax blended yarn is spun by optimizing the raw material mixing ratio and spinning process. The weave structure adopts a double-layer structure, which is arranged in Z twist and S twist directions to enhance the stability of the interlayer connection and give the fabric good elastic recovery and anti-wrinkle performance. During weaving, the fabric is efficiently produced by adding special wax blocks and optimizing the machine process. The developed fabric has good moisture absorption and breathability, a light and full hand feel, a smooth and crisp appearance, good shape retention, overcomes the problem of pure flax fabric being easy to wrinkle, and expands the application scene. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are described clearly and completely below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of them. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0024] Example 1

[0025] A method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0026] The first step is raw material preparation: select flax fiber (fineness 1.6-1.8dtex, length 30-35mm), spandex (fineness 20D), silk fiber (1.1dtex, length 16-40mm), modal fiber (1.3dtex×38mm), and mix them in the proportion of 50% flax, 20% spandex, 20% silk fiber, and 10% modal fiber.

[0027] The second step is spinning process: flax fiber biological enzyme (cellulase and pectinase complex) is treated at 40-45℃ for 60-90min. Flax fiber, silk fiber and modal fiber are first made into mature slivers, and then jet vortex spinning (nozzle pressure 0.4MPa, spinning speed 350m / min) into yarn.

[0028] The third step is fabric organization design: double-layer structure, the surface layer is plain weave (warp density 480 strands / 10cm, weft density 240 strands / 10cm), the inner layer is warp-heavy plain weave (warp density 460 strands / 10cm, weft density 220 strands / 10cm), the connecting fiber bundles (fineness 0.8-1.0dtex) are distributed at intervals of 10-12cm, Z twist and S twist alternate, and the twist is 60-80 twists / 10cm.

[0029] Step 4, weaving process: warping process (tension 18-25cN, speed 450m / min), automatic moistening every 10 minutes above the reed. Weaving is done on a Picanol GTMax rapier loom, with a speed of 360rpm, a reed flat time of 300 degrees, a rear beam position of +8 grids high and low, +4 grids front and back of the rear beam, a warp frame position of +3 grids high and low, +6 grids front and back, and a relative humidity of 80-85% in the workshop.

[0030] The fabric produced in Example 1 was tested for shape retention and drape performance, the wrinkle recovery of the fabric was tested in accordance with the national standard GB / T 3819-1997, and the drape of the fabric was tested in accordance with FZ / T01045-1996. It can be seen from Table 1 that the fabric produced by the present invention can effectively improve the anti-wrinkle shape retention and drape performance of the fabric.

[0031] Table 1

[0032] Snap elastic recovery angle (°) Slow elastic recovery angle (°) Dynamic drape coefficient (%) 141 147 35

[0033] Example 2

[0034] A method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0035] The first step is raw material preparation: select flax fiber (fineness 1.4-1.6dtex, length 32-36mm), polyester elastic filament (polytrimethylene terephthalate elastic filament) (fineness 35D / 8F), silk fiber (1.26dtex×38mm), modal fiber (1.3dtex×38mm), and mix them in the proportion of 60% flax, 20% polyester, 20% silk fiber, and 10% modal fiber.

[0036] The second step is spinning process: flax fiber biological enzyme (cellulase and pectinase complex) is treated at 40-45℃ for 60-90min. Flax fiber, silk fiber and modal fiber are first made into mature slivers, and then jet vortex spinning (nozzle pressure 0.42MPa, spinning speed 340m / min) into yarn.

[0037] The third step is fabric organization design: double-layer structure, the surface layer is made of twill organization (warp density 470 strands / 10cm, weft density 260 strands / 10cm), the inner layer is made of warp weight plain organization (warp density 450 strands / 10cm, weft density 220 strands / 10cm), the connecting fiber bundles (fineness 0.8-1.0dtex) are distributed at intervals of 10-12cm, Z twist and S twist alternate, and the twist is 60-80 twists / 10cm.

[0038] Step 4, weaving process: warping process (tension 18-25cN, speed 500m / min), automatic moistening every 10 minutes above the reed. Weaving is done on a Picanol GTMax rapier loom, with a speed of 360rpm, a reed flat time of 308 degrees, a rear beam position of +6 grids high and low, +3 grids front and back of the rear beam, a warp frame position of +3 grids high and low, +6 grids front and back, and a relative humidity of 80-85% in the workshop.

[0039] The fabric produced in Example 2 was tested for shape retention and drape performance, the wrinkle recovery of the fabric was tested in accordance with the national standard GB / T 3819-1997, and the drape of the fabric was tested in accordance with FZ / T01045-1996. It can be seen from Table 2 that the fabric produced by the present invention can effectively improve the anti-wrinkle shape retention and drape performance of the fabric.

[0040] Table 2

[0041] Snap elastic recovery angle (°) Slow elastic recovery angle (°) Dynamic drape coefficient (%) 140 145 36

[0042] It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the features described in the various embodiments and / or claims of the present invention may be combined and / or combined in various ways, even if such combinations and / or combinations are not explicitly described in the present invention. In particular, the features described in the various embodiments and / or claims of the present invention may be combined and / or combined in various ways without departing from the spirit and teachings of the present invention. All of these combinations and / or combinations fall within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric, characterized in that: Here are the steps: Step 1: Mixing of raw materials Linen fiber, elastic fiber, silk fiber and modal fiber are selected as raw materials, and the blending ratio of linen fiber, elastic fiber, silk fiber and modal fiber is 50-60%: 20-25%: 20-25%: 10-20%; Step 2: Yarn Spinning First, flax fiber, elastic fiber and modal fiber are weighed in a predetermined ratio and placed in a blender to be evenly mixed using airflow; Flax fiber is pretreated and treated with biological enzymes to degrade pectin and lignin, reduce fiber rigidity, and improve softness and spinnability; When spinning, the flax fibers are first made into a separate web, and then the flax fiber web, silk fiber strips and modal fiber strips are weighed and mixed to make uniform slivers; Then the sliver and elastic fiber yarn are fed into the air jet vortex spinning equipment, and the high-speed rotating airflow is used to further condense the fibers and arrange the fibers tightly and orderly, and then the flax blended yarn with uniform yarn length, high strength and wear resistance is spun; Step 3: Fabric structure Design a double-layer structure, with plain or twill weave for the surface layer and warp-heavy plain weave for the inner layer. The two layers of indirect-knot yarns are arranged alternately in Z-twist and S-twist directions, and the interlacing points of warp and weft yarns are evenly distributed; Step 4: Weaving process In the warping process, the warping tension is increased by 15-20%, the angle between the warp yarn and the hank reed is reduced, and the warping is performed regularly above the hank reed. The angle between the warp yarn and the hank reed is controlled between 40 and 45 degrees, and the automatic wetting is set every 10 minutes; the warping speed is set to 400-500 m / min; In the weaving process, Picanol GTMax rapier loom is used, and special wax blocks are placed at the unwinding point of the weaving beam.

2. The method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The elastic fiber is spandex or polyester elastic fiber.

3. The method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: In the second step, the flax fiber is pretreated by using a flax fiber biological enzyme at 40-45° C. for 60-90 minutes.

4. The method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that: The flax fiber biological enzyme is a composite of cellulase and pectinase.

5. The method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the second step, the nozzle pressure of the jet vortex spinning equipment is 0.4 MPa and the spinning speed is 350 m / min.

6. The method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the third step, the fabric structure is designed as a double-layer structure, the surface layer is a plain weave with a warp density of 480 strands / 10cm and a weft density of 240 strands / 10cm; the inner layer is a double-warp plain weave with a warp density of 460 strands / 10cm and a weft density of 220 strands / 10cm; the connecting fiber bundles are 0.8-1.0 dtex in fineness, distributed at intervals of 10-12cm, with Z twist and S twist alternating, and a twist of 60-80 twists / 10cm.

7. The method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the third step, the fabric structure is designed as a double-layer structure, the surface layer is a twill structure with a warp density of 470 strands / 10cm and a weft density of 260 strands / 10cm; the inner layer is a warp-weighted plain structure with a warp density of 450 strands / 10cm and a weft density of 220 strands / 10cm; the connecting fiber bundles are 0.8-1.0 dtex in fineness, distributed at intervals of 10-12 cm, with Z twist and S twist alternating, and a twist of 60-80 twists / 10 cm.

8. The method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the fourth step, the weaving process parameters are: machine speed 360rpm, comprehensive flat time 300-310 degrees, workshop relative humidity 80-85%.

9. The wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric obtained by the method for producing a wrinkle-resistant flax blended woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that: The fabric has a double-layer structure, with Z-twist and S-twist alternately arranged to enhance the stability of the inter-layer connection, and has good elastic recovery and wrinkle resistance. The fabric is moisture-absorbent and breathable, feels light and full, has a smooth and crisp appearance, and has good shape retention.