Anti-laddering full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain stitch fabric

Abstract

The invention provides an anti-laddering full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain stitch fabric, and relates to the technical field of full-width weft insertion warp knitting weaves. The invention relates to an anti-laddering full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain stitch fabric. The chaining warp plain composite warp knitting weave is formed by alternately and circularly inserting warp plain weaves with transversely moving needle positions on a chaining weave with two comb sections fully penetrating, so that warp yarns can be easily drawn out along the reverse knitting direction on a traditional chaining weave weft insertion fabric, and the position is mutually locked; therefore, the phenomenon that the texture and the appearance are damaged due to warp yarn laddering in the fabric weaving, dyeing, finishing, processing and tailoring and garment wearing and finishing processes is prevented; and the upper and lower needle numbers of the circulating units of the chaining warp-flat composite warp knitting weave on the weft yarn position and the needle number and the circulating number of the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine can be exactly divided, so that the formed cloth cover is uniform and flat, and the appearance of the fabric is close to that of the fabric of the conventional full-width weft insertion chaining weave.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of full-width weft-inserted warp knitting structures, and in particular to a full-width weft-inserted double-comb variable chain knitting structure fabric that is anti-snagging. Background Art

[0002] The appearance of the full-width weft-lined chain-knitted fabric is very similar to that of woven fabric, which is flat and shape-keeping, but it is highly breathable and uses less warp yarn, making it easy to make a light, breathable and comfortable fabric for summer. However, in the weaving or dyeing and finishing factory and the wearing of clothing, the pure chain-knitted warp yarn can easily cause the warp yarn ends to be pulled out from the joints (or holes) in the opposite direction of weaving by external forces, destroying the structure and fabric appearance (for the principle, see the warp knitting technology textbook "Warp Knitted Fabric Production Technology" by Jiang Gaoming Pg91). Therefore, the weaving and sewing processes must be operated and handled carefully by experienced people, which is a structural hidden danger that limits the application of fabrics.

[0003] Moreover, for the full-width weft-knitted chain-knitted fabric, no matter how many combing nodes there are, each warp yarn is woven longitudinally by itself on the same weft yarn position, and two or more adjacent warps do not form a mesh weave, so the force is easily concentrated on a single warp and weft yarn. This affects the longitudinal and transverse tearing strength and point bursting strength of the fabric. The specific force can be seen in the attached Figure 2 On this basis, improving the anti-snagging effect of tissue fabrics without changing the appearance of the tissue is the key consideration in the current textile industry. Summary of the invention

[0004] In view of the shortcomings of the prior art, the present invention provides a double-comb variable chain weft fabric with anti-threading full-width weft insertion, which can effectively improve the tearing strength and bursting strength of the fabric.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the technical solution of the present invention is implemented through the following technical solutions:

[0006] The invention discloses a fabric with double-comb variable chain weft structure to prevent thread pulling. The fabric is a chain warp flat composite warp knitting structure formed by inserting a warp flat structure with a transverse needle position into a chain weft structure with two comb nodes fully penetrated alternately and cyclically. The warp yarns that are easy to be pulled out in the reverse weaving direction on the traditional chain weft structure weft structure fabric are locked with each other at this position, thereby preventing the warp yarns from pulling out and damaging the structure and appearance during the weaving, dyeing, finishing, cutting and clothing wearing and care processes of the fabric. The upper and lower needle numbers of the cycle unit of the chain warp flat composite warp knitting structure at the weft yarn position are divisible by the needle number and cycle number of the full-width weft warp knitting machine, so that the fabric surface formed is uniform and flat, and is close to the appearance of the fabric of the conventional full-width weft chain weft structure.

[0007] Preferably, the needle number cycle number of the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine is M16, that is, a maximum of 16 needles return to the starting position, and the multiple of the cycle is any one of 1, 2, 4, and 8.

[0008] Preferably, for the M16 full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine, the best cycle multiple is 2, that is, when the cycle multiple is 2, the serial numbers of the two comb segment discs are as follows:

[0009] GB1: 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 12 / / ; 7 chain stitches + 1 warp flat, i.e. 8 stitches per weave cycle;

[0010] GB2: 21 / 21 / 21 / 10 / 21 / 21 / 21 / 21 / / ; 3 chain stitches + 1 warp flat + 4 chain stitches, i.e. 8 stitches in one weave cycle;

[0011] That is, on the maximum number of 16 loop needles, there are 4 warp plain weaves evenly distributed on the chain appearance of the full-width weft-inserted fabric of the two comb sections. Figure 1 .

[0012] Preferably, the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine has a needle density range of E20-E32, preferably E24 and E28, and more preferably E24.

[0013] Preferably, the warp threads in the fabric are PET polyester or PA, with a thickness specification range of 30D-75D filaments and an F number of 24-48F.

[0014] Preferably, the weft yarn in the fabric is any two of linen yarn containing 15-100% linen, cotton and linen blended yarn, viscose and linen blended yarn, polyester and linen blended yarn, blended yarn of three types of linen fibers, and linen core-spun yarn with shrinkable filament as core yarn, and the thickness range of the weft yarn is 12-32S, and the linen component can be hemp, flax or ramie, etc.

[0015] Preferably, the weft yarns are arranged in a periodic manner using a variety of yarns, and the arrangement combination includes high-shrinkage and high-elasticity weft yarns. The total number of weft yarns in the arrangement combination of other low-rebound or non-rebound weft yarns and high-shrinkage and high-elasticity weft yarns can divide the total number of weft yarns simultaneously laid behind the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine, which is 24 (Karl Mayer's full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine simultaneously lays 24 weft yarns for weaving). This ensures that the weft yarn arrangement combination is a complete periodic arrangement and that the weft yarns appear to be evenly and neatly arranged on the cloth surface.

[0016] Preferably, the total number of weft yarns in the two weft yarn arrangement combination units is the same as or half of the number of needles in the warp yarn organization combination, so that the weft yarn combination is evenly arranged even in each smallest warp yarn organization unit cell, ensuring that the cloth surface is as uniform and neat as possible.

[0017] Preferably, the weft density of the fabric is 12-25 yarns / cm, more preferably 16-20 yarns / cm.

[0018] The present invention provides a double-comb variable chain weft fabric with full-width weft insertion to prevent snagging, which has the following advantages over the prior art:

[0019] The present invention eliminates the problem that the warp yarns in one direction (the reverse weaving direction) of the fabric of the full-width weft-inserted pure chain weft structure are easily untied and are pulled out by external force without restriction, thereby destroying the integrity of the fabric structure and fabric appearance. The warp yarn structure of the conventional double-comb full-width weft-inserted chain weft structure is partially changed to a two-needle warp plain structure. The overall fabric appearance is still very similar to the fabric appearance of the normal full-width weft-inserted chain weft structure. However, the problem that the chain weft structure is always pulled out by external force in the reverse weaving direction can be perfectly solved by interlocking the two-comb warp yarns at the change position. At the same time, the warp yarns are woven into a mesh shape at the change warp plain position, which also improves the tearing strength and bursting strength of the fabric. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0020] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine M16 of the present invention, and a full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weaving organization structure with a cycle multiple of 2;

[0021] Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of the force structure of conventional full-width weft-inserted chain knitting organization;

[0022] Figure 3 This is an enlarged view of the HXYM-31 grey cloth in Example 1 of the present invention;

[0023] Figure 4 This is an enlarged front view of the finished product of HXYM-31 in Example 1 of the present invention;

[0024] Figure 5 This is an enlarged view of the back side of the finished product of HXYM-31 in Example 1 of the present invention;

[0025] Figure 6 This is an enlarged view of the HXYM-32 grey cloth in Example 2 of the present invention;

[0026] Figure 7 This is an enlarged view of the finished product of HXYM-32 in Example 2 of the present invention;

[0027] Figure 8 This is an enlarged view of the HXYM-33 grey cloth in Example 3 of the present invention;

[0028] Fig. 9 This is an enlarged view of the finished product of HXYM-32 in Example 2 of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0029] In order to make the purpose, technical solution and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solution in the embodiments of the present invention is clearly and completely described below in combination with the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0030] Embodiment 1:

[0031] Products woven from PTT elastic warp yarn, linen-containing weft yarn and spandex core-spun linen yarn (HXYM-31):

[0032] 1. Grey cloth process (net width of finished product is 144cm)

[0033] 24-needle KS full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine, 247-inch double-width (209.127cm x 3 width = 24 warps x 494 threads)

[0034] The width of the grey cloth on the machine is 209.127cm, the width of the finished product is 144-146cm including the needle edge, and the theoretical yield of dyeing and finishing is 76.5%;

[0035] GB1: 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 12 / / PTT Sorona FDY 50D / 32F half-light full penetration;

[0036] GB2: 21 / 21 / 21 / 10 / 21 / 21 / 21 / 21 / / PTT Sorona FDY 50D / 32F half-light full penetration;

[0037] Weft yarn A: 16S = 32S / 2 spandex 40D core-spun hemp 4 cotton 6 plied together as plied yarn

[0038] Weft yarn B: 15S = 30S / 2 viscose 85 / hemp 15 (core spun 50DPBT) core spun yarn

[0039] Weft arrangement rule: (1A+1B, one weft every other) x 12 cycles = 24 wefts

[0040] Weft density on the machine: 17.25 yarns / cm.

[0041] Specific fabrics such as Figure 3 As shown;

[0042] 2. Post-finishing process:

[0043] Washing, refining and pre-shrinking (85-95℃)----high temperature pre-setting (178-180℃)----overflow or cold pile dyeing----finished product setting (150-155℃ hydrophilic soft formula)----finished product inspection and packaging.

[0044] The purpose of washing, refining and pre-shrinking in the Gaole washing machine at 80-95℃ is to relax the spandex and remove the internal stress in the yarn during spinning and weaving.

[0045] High temperature setting (178-180℃): cloth width 148-150cm, warp and weft density controlled at: 13.2x21.5 strands / cm (at this time the grey cloth yield is 80-81%).

[0046] Dyeing: PTT and PBT use medium-temperature disperse dyes, linen and cotton use reactive dyes, and spandex core-spun silk is not dyed (viscosity disperse dyeing).

[0047] Finished product shaping: the weft yarn should be straight, the temperature is 150-155℃. The finished product width is 144-146cm, the finished product warp and weft density is 13.6x22.5 strands / cm, and the finished product square gram weight is about 212.8±5g / m 2 .

[0048] The felt is pre-shrunk and calendered at 140 degrees (the weft side faces the high-temperature metal roller side of the calender, and the warp side with more nylon faces the felt side). After calendering, the warp direction shrinks by 2-4%, and the width remains basically unchanged. The overall yield rate of the grey fabric is about 76-77%. The square gram weight is about 210-218 grams. The warp and weft density is about 2x13.6x22.5 strands / cm.

[0049] Inspection cloth packaging: Inspection cloth 50 meters / roll.

[0050] 3. Finished product requirements:

[0051] Finished product width (including needle edge): 144-146cm, finished product warp and weft density: 2x34.5+57 strands / inch, finished product theoretical square gram weight: 213+-5g / m 2 Among them, polyester (PTT+PBT): 49.84%, cotton: 15.45%, viscose: 18.6, hemp: 13.8%, spandex: 2.3%.

[0052] 140℃ heat shrinkage: warp ≤-3%, weft ≤-3%

[0053] The front and back diagrams of the finished product are as follows: Figure 4 and Figure 5 shown.

[0054] 4. Application

[0055] Pants, skirts, jackets, T-shirts, etc.

[0056] Embodiment 2:

[0057] PTT elastic warp yarn and linen weft yarn and spandex core-spun linen yarn are woven into slightly wrinkled products (HXYM-32):

[0058] 1. Grey cloth process (net width of finished product is 144cm)

[0059] 24-needle KS full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine, 247-inch double-width (209.127cm x 3 width = 24 warps x 494 threads)

[0060] The width of the grey cloth on the machine is 209.127cm, the width of the finished product is 144-146cm including the needle edge, and the theoretical yield of dyeing and finishing is 75%

[0061] GB1: 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 12 / / PTT Sorona FDY 50D / 32F half-light full penetration;

[0062] GB2: 21 / 021 / 21 / 10 / 21 / 21 / 21 / 21 / / PTT Sorona FDY 50D / 32F half-light full penetration;

[0063] Weft yarn A: 16S = 32S / 2 spandex 40D core-spun hemp 4 cotton 6 plied together as plied yarn; equivalent to 332D, composition: cotton 55% + hemp 37% + spandex 8%

[0064] Weft yarn B: 21S cotton 70 / hemp 30 yarn Z twisted and plied sorona fdy 50D / 32F; equivalent to 309D (17.2S=29.1Nm), composition: cotton 58%+hemp 25%+PTT DuPont sorona 17%.

[0065] Weft yarn arrangement rule: (1A+3B arrangement, A yarn should be in the warp weft) x 6 cycles = 24 weft yarns

[0066] Weft density on the machine: 17.75 yarns / cm,

[0067] The width of the grey cloth off the machine is 184cm after relaxation, and the weft density is approximately 20 strands / CM.

[0068] Grey fabric square grammage: 110.4g / m 2 .

[0069] Schematic diagram of grey cloth Figure 6 Shown

[0070] 2. Post-finishing process:

[0071] Washing, refining and pre-shrinking (85-95℃)----high temperature pre-setting (178-180℃)----overflow or cold pile dyeing----finished product setting (150-155℃ hydrophilic soft formula)----finished product inspection and packaging.

[0072] The purpose of washing, refining and pre-shrinking in the Gaole washing machine at 80-95℃ is to relax the spandex and remove the internal stress in the yarn during spinning and weaving.

[0073] High temperature setting (178℃): cloth width is 148-150cm, warp and weft density is controlled at: 13.2x21.8 strands / cm (at this time the grey cloth yield is 81-82%).

[0074] Dyeing: PTT Sorona uses medium-temperature disperse dyes, linen and cotton use reactive dyes, and spandex core-spun silk is not dyed (viscosity disperse dyeing).

[0075] Finished product shaping: the weft yarn should be straight, the temperature is 150-155℃. The finished product width is 144-146cm, the finished product warp and weft density is 13.6x23.6 strands / cm, and the finished product square gram weight is about 211±6g / m 2 .

[0076] The felt is pre-shrinked and calendered once at 140 degrees high temperature (the weft side faces the high-temperature metal roller side of the calender, and the warp side with more nylon faces the felt surface). After calendering, the warp direction shrinks by 2-4%, and the width remains basically unchanged. The overall theoretical yield rate of the grey fabric is about 74-75%. The square gram weight is about 210-218 grams. The warp and weft density is about 2x13.6x23.6 strands / cm.

[0077] Inspection cloth packaging: Inspection cloth 50 meters / roll.

[0078] The finished product enlarged picture is as follows Figure 7 shown.

[0079] 3. Finished product requirements data:

[0080] Finished product width (including needle edge): 144-146cm, finished product warp and weft density: 2x34.5+60 strands / inch, finished product theoretical square gram weight 91.567+31.45+87.85=211+6-1g / m2. Among them, polyester (PTT): 43.4+7.12=50.52%, cotton: 32.35%, hemp: 15.93%, spandex: 1.2%.

[0081] 140℃ heat shrinkage: warp ≤-3%, weft ≤-3%

[0082] 4: Purpose

[0083] T-shirts, jackets, trousers and more.

[0084] Embodiment 3:

[0085] PTT elastic warp yarn and linen weft yarn and spandex core-spun linen yarn are woven into slightly wrinkled products (HXYM-33):

[0086] 1. Grey cloth process (net width of finished product is 144cm)

[0087] 24-needle KS full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine, 247-inch double-width (209.127cm x 3 width = 24 warps x 494 threads)

[0088] The width of the grey cloth on the machine is 209.127cm, the width of the finished product is 144-146cm including the needle edge, and the theoretical yield of dyeing and finishing is 75%

[0089] GB1:01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 12 / / PTT Sorona FDY

[0090] 50D / 32F half-gloss full wear

[0091] GB2:21 / 021 / 21 / 10 / 21 / 21 / 21 / 21 / / PTT Sorona FDY

[0092] 50D / 32F half-gloss full wear

[0093] Weft A: 32S spandex 40D core-spun hemp 4 cotton 6 single strands, equivalent to 166D = 54.176Nm, composition: cotton 55% + hemp 37% + spandex 8%

[0094] Weft yarn B: 30S cotton 45 / hemp 55 yarn plied sorona fdy 40D / 48F, equivalent to 218D (24.4S=41.3Nm), composition: cotton 37% + hemp 45% + PTT DuPont sorona 18%.

[0095] Weft yarn arrangement rule: (1A+3B arrangement, A yarn should be in the warp weft) x 6 cycles = 24 weft yarns

[0096] Weft density on the machine: 19.75 yarns / cm,

[0097] The square weight of the grey fabric is about 94.33g / m 2 .

[0098] Enlarged picture of grey cloth Figure 8 As shown;

[0099] 2: Post-finishing process flow:

[0100] Washing, refining and pre-shrinking (85-95℃)----high temperature pre-setting (178-180℃)----overflow or cold pile dyeing----finished product setting (150-155℃ hydrophilic soft formula)----finished product inspection and packaging.

[0101] The purpose of washing, refining and pre-shrinking in the Gaole washing machine at 80-95℃ is to relax the spandex and remove the internal stress in the yarn during spinning and weaving.

[0102] High temperature setting (178℃): cloth width 154-156cm, warp and weft density controlled at: 12.5x24.2 strands / cm (at this time the grey cloth yield is 81-82%).

[0103] Dyeing: PTT Sorona uses medium-temperature disperse dyes, linen and cotton use reactive dyes, and spandex core-spun silk is not dyed (viscosity disperse dyeing).

[0104] Finished product shaping: the weft yarn should be straight, the temperature is 150-155℃. The finished product width is 144-146cm, the finished product warp and weft density is 13.6x26.3 strands / cm, and the finished product square gram weight is about 181.3±6g / m 2 .

[0105] The felt is pre-shrinked and calendered once at 140℃ high temperature (the weft side faces the high temperature metal roller side of the calender, and the warp side with more nylon faces the felt side). After calendering, the warp direction shrinks by 2-4%, and the width remains basically unchanged. The overall theoretical yield rate of the grey fabric is about 74-75%. The square gram weight is about 180-188 grams. The warp and weft density is about 2x13.6x26.3 strands / cm.

[0106] Inspection cloth packaging: Inspection cloth 50 meters / roll.

[0107] The finished product is enlarged as shown Fig. 9 shown.

[0108] 3. Finished product requirements data:

[0109] Finished product width (including needle edge): 144-146cm, finished product warp and weft density: 2x34.6+66 strands / inch, finished product theoretical square gram weight 181.3±5g / m 2 . Among them, polyester (PTT): 59.25%, cotton: 19.33%, hemp: 20.65%, spandex: 0.77%.

[0110] 140℃ heat shrinkage: warp ≤-3%, weft ≤-3%

[0111] 4: Purpose

[0112] T-shirts, jackets, trousers and more.

[0113] Detection:

[0114] The HXYM-31 modified chain warp plain structure in Example 1 was selected, and the product prepared by using the warp and weft yarns in Example 1 to prepare the pure chain warp structure was tested according to the following table:

[0115]

[0116] It can be seen from the above table that the modified chain warp plain structure of Example 1 has higher tearing strength and bursting strength.

[0117] The above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention, rather than to limit the same. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the aforementioned embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments may still be modified, or some of the technical features may be replaced by equivalents. However, these modifications or replacements do not deviate the essence of the corresponding technical solutions from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims

1. A double-comb variable chain weft fabric with full-width weft insertion to prevent filament pulling, characterized in that: The fabric is a chain warp flat composite warp knitting structure formed by alternately inserting a warp flat structure with transverse needle positions into a chain warp structure with two comb nodes fully penetrated, and the upper and lower needle numbers of the circulation unit of the chain warp flat composite warp knitting structure at the weft yarn position are divisible by the number of needles of the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine.

2. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The needle number cycle number of the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine is M16, that is, the maximum number of 16 knitting needles returns to the starting position, and the multiple of the cycle is any one of 1, 2, 4, and 8.

3. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: When the multiple of the cycle is 2, the serial numbers of the two comb segment discs are as follows: GB1: 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 01 / 12 / / ; 7 chain stitches + 1 warp flat, i.e. 8 stitches per weave cycle; GB2: 21 / 21 / 21 / 10 / 21 / 21 / 21 / 21 / / ; 3 chain stitches + 1 warp flat stitch + 4 chain stitches, that is, 8 stitches in one weave cycle.

4. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The needle density range of the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine is E20-E32.

5. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The warp yarns in the fabric are PET polyester or PA, with a thickness specification range of 30D-75D filaments and an F number of 24-48F.

6. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weft yarn in the fabric is any one or more of linen yarn containing 15-100% linen, cotton and linen blended yarn, viscose and linen blended yarn, polyester and linen blended yarn, blended yarn of three kinds of linen fibers, and linen core-spun yarn with shrinkable filament as core yarn, and the thickness range of the weft yarn is 12-32S.

7. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weft yarns are arranged in a variety of yarn cycles, and there are high-shrinkage and high-elasticity weft yarns in the arrangement and combination. The total number of weft yarns with low or no resilience and high-shrinkage and high-elasticity can divide the total number of weft yarns laid simultaneously at the back of the full-width weft insertion warp knitting machine, which is 24.

8. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that: The total number of weft yarns in the two weft yarn arrangement combination units is the same as the number of needles in the warp yarn organization combination or 1 / 2 of it.

9. The anti-snagging full-width weft insertion double-comb variable chain weave fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weft density of the fabric is 12-25 threads / cm.

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