Anti-aging whitening and soothing composition as well as preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and particularly relates to an anti-aging whitening and relieving composition as well as a preparation method and application thereof. The anti-aging whitening and soothing composition is a stable oil-in-water emulsion system, and in a formed oil phase, the adopted natural vegetable oil can deeply nourish skin, promote skin metabolism and accelerate metabolism and discharge of melanin, so that the anti-aging whitening and soothing composition can be used for whitening and soothing the skin. In combination with carriers such as PEG-5 rapeseed sterol and glyceryl dibehenic acid, the whitening effect of 4-butylresorcinol can be remarkably improved by inhibiting the absorption and activity of tyrosinase, improving the degradation of tyrosinase and the like, so that the generation of melanin can be reduced, the skin can be protected from being damaged by free radicals, and the whitening effect of 4-butylresorcinol is improved. Therefore, the skin aging process is slowed down; in the formed water phase, all the components play roles in resisting light aging, resisting oxidation and resisting inflammation, meanwhile, melanogenesis reaction activated by inflammatory reaction is effectively inhibited, melanogenesis is reduced, and the whitening effect of the composition is further promoted.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and specifically relates to an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Melanin in the skin is produced by a series of reactions after DOPA and tyrosine combine with tyrosinase. Therefore, inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase has become the focus of many whitening product research and development. The development of whitening products has experienced a transformation from single ingredients to complex ingredients, from chemical synthesis to natural extraction. With the continuous increase in consumer demand for whitening and the improvement of skin care awareness, the development of whitening products has shown a trend of diversification and refinement.

[0003] However, the development of whitening products also faces some difficulties: how to ensure the safety of products while ensuring the whitening effect is an important problem in the development of whitening products. This requires R&D personnel to have a deep understanding of the mechanism of skin pigmentation, rationally select whitening ingredients, and strictly control the production process and quality control of products. With the increasing demand of consumers for personalized skin care, for example, although the effect of hydroquinone whitening products is significant, the safety issue cannot be ignored. With the increasing demand of consumers for whitening and the improvement of skin care awareness, the development of whitening products will pay more attention to the balance between safety and effectiveness, the demand for personalized skin care and the intensification of market competition. Summary of the invention

[0004] In view of the above problems, the object of the present invention is to provide an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition and a preparation method and application thereof.

[0005] The technical contents of the present invention are as follows:

[0006] The present invention provides an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition, wherein the composition is an O / W emulsion structure, that is, a structure in which an oil phase is encapsulated by a water phase;

[0007] The components of the oil phase include ISTASI TINCTORIA seed oil, PASSIFLORA INCARNATA seed oil, PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 4-butylresorcinol, and glyceryl dibehenate;

[0008] In terms of mass fraction, in the oil phase, European isatis tinctoria seed oil accounts for 12-16%, pink passion fruit (passifloraincaRNAta) seed oil accounts for 12-16%, PEG-5 rapeseed sterol accounts for 10-15%, 4-butylresorcinol accounts for 8-12%, and glyceryl dibehenate accounts for 45-50%;

[0009] The components of the aqueous phase include corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, agar polysaccharide, B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and deionized water;

[0010] In terms of mass fraction, the aqueous phase comprises 6-9% corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, 2-4% modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, 2-5% agar polysaccharide, 0.05-0.1% B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt, and water is added to 100%;

[0011] The volume ratio of the oil phase to the water phase in the composition is (1-3):(3-7);

[0012] The preparation of the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing horse chestnut bark glycoside and amino acid at a molar ratio of (3-6):1, adding DMSO and stirring uniformly, heating to 85-90°C, carrying out an amidation reaction under the action of a p-toluenesulfonic acid catalyst, eluting (removing DMSO) and distilling under reduced pressure (removing the catalyst) after the reaction is completed, to obtain the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, and forming an amidate of amino acid and horse chestnut bark glycoside through an amidation reaction between the ester group of the horse chestnut bark glycoside and the amino group of the amino acid, while retaining the hydrophilic and water-holding effects of the hydroxyl group in the horse chestnut bark glycoside, thereby enhancing the moisturizing ability, and also enhancing its anti-ultraviolet and anti-inflammatory abilities, and compounding it with corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, agar polysaccharide, and B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt, and utilizing the synergistic effect of its components to enhance the moisturizing, whitening, anti-photoaging and anti-inflammatory effects;

[0013] The amino acids include hydrophilic amino acids, including one or more of glycine, alanine, threonine, serine, and tyrosine.

[0014] The agar-agar polysaccharide is extracted by complex enzyme combined with ultrasonic treatment;

[0015] In the oil phase, the European woad (ISATIS TINCTORIA) seed oil used is a natural plant oil, rich in unsaturated fatty acids and polyphenol compounds, which can form a protective film similar to sebum to protect the skin barrier, closely adhere to the skin surface, can effectively isolate external dirt and harmful substances, and also has excellent water-locking ability, which can firmly lock in skin moisture;

[0016] The pink passionflower (PASSIFLORA INCARNATA) seed oil used contains a variety of active ingredients, such as vitamin E, fatty acids, etc. As a skin conditioner, it can deeply cleanse the skin, promote metabolism, and help improve uneven skin tone and pigmentation problems;

[0017] The PEG-5 rapeseed sterol used is mainly used as a moisturizer, which can promote and assist the penetration of other functional ingredients into the skin, and also help stabilize other active ingredients and improve the overall stability of the product;

[0018] The 4-butylresorcinol used has the effect of whitening and lightening spots, and can reduce the production of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and dihydroxyindolecarboxylic acid oxidase (TRP-1);

[0019] The glyceryl dibehenate used as a emollient can enhance the lubricity and ductility of the product. Combined with the above ingredients, it can stabilize the dispersion state of 4-butylresorcinol in the composition, prevent it from reducing the whitening effect due to aggregation, and help active ingredients such as 4-butylresorcinol to better penetrate into the skin, thereby exerting better efficacy, scavenging free radicals, reducing skin oxidative damage, reducing spots and dullness, and making the skin tone more even and translucent.

[0020] In the water phase, the corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer used as an emulsifier and stabilizer helps to form a stable O / W emulsion structure;

[0021] The modified horse chestnut bark glycosides used have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and soothing effects, which can help reduce skin inflammation and sensitive symptoms, and can also promote blood circulation in the skin and improve uneven skin tone;

[0022] The prepared agar polysaccharide, as a natural moisturizing factor, can significantly improve the skin's moisturizing ability, and can also enhance the skin's barrier function and protect the skin from external damage;

[0023] The B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt used is an important antioxidant that can scavenge free radicals and reduce oxidative damage to the skin. Combined with the above ingredients, it has the function of absorbing ultraviolet rays and free radicals, and can achieve anti-photoaging and antioxidant effects.

[0024] The present invention also provides a method for preparing an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition, comprising the following steps:

[0025] 1) mixing ISTASI TINCTORIA seed oil, PASSIFLORA INCARNATA seed oil, PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 4-butylresorcinol and glyceryl dibehenate, heating to 75-80° C., stirring evenly and then performing ultrasonic treatment to obtain an inner oil phase;

[0026] The stirring speed is 500-800 rpm;

[0027] In the ultrasonic treatment, the ultrasonic parameters are set to a temperature of 50°C to 60°C, a frequency of 25 to 40kHz, a power of 80 to 100W, and a total time of 3 to 5min (ultrasonication for 1s; stop for 1s);

[0028] 2) corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, agar polysaccharide, B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and deionized water are mixed, heated to 95-98° C., and stirred evenly to obtain an external water phase;

[0029] The stirring speed is 800-1200 rpm;

[0030] 3) dropping the inner oil phase into the outer water phase at a volume ratio of (1-3):(3-7), stirring evenly, and then ultrasonically treating after homogenization to obtain an O / W emulsion, which is an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition;

[0031] The stirring speed is 800-1000 rpm;

[0032] In the ultrasonic treatment, the ultrasonic parameters are set to a temperature of 25° C. to 30° C., a frequency of 25 to 40 kHz, a power of 100 to 200 W, and a total time of 3 to 5 min (ultrasonication for 1 s; stop for 1 s).

[0033] The present invention also provides an application of an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition, wherein the whitening and soothing composition can be used as an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing additive for cosmetics or skin care products.

[0034] The beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0035] The anti-photoaging, whitening and soothing composition of the present invention is a stable oil-in-water emulsion system, and the oil phase component in the structure can more easily penetrate the skin barrier and transport the active components to the deep layer of the skin. At the same time, the aqueous phase components can also provide sufficient moisture for the skin, helping to keep the skin moist and soft; in the formed oil phase, natural plant oils such as European woad seed oil and pink passionflower seed oil can deeply nourish the skin, promote skin metabolism, and help accelerate the metabolism and excretion of melanin. Combined with carriers such as PEG-5 rapeseed sterol and glyceryl dibehenic acid, it can inhibit the absorption and activity of tyrosinase, improve the degradation of tyrosinase, etc., significantly improve the whitening effect of 4-butylresorcinol, not only can reduce the production of melanin, but also can protect the skin from free radicals, thereby slowing down the process of skin aging; in the formed aqueous phase, corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer forms a stable O / W emulsion structure, which helps modified horse chestnut bark glycosides, agar polysaccharides, and B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt to synergistically exert anti-photoaging, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, while effectively inhibiting the melanin production reaction activated by inflammatory response, reducing melanin production, and further promoting the whitening effect of the composition. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0036] Figure 1 This is a result diagram of the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity by the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention;

[0037] Figure 2 This is a graph showing the absorbance of the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention to ultraviolet light;

[0038] Figure 3 This is a graph showing the absorbance of the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention to blue light;

[0039] Figure 4 DPPH and ABTS of the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention + Free radical scavenging rate result graph;

[0040] Figure 5 This is a result diagram showing the effect of the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention on the expression level of IL-6;

[0041] Figure 6 This is a result diagram showing the effect of the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention on the expression level of IL-1β;

[0042] Figure 7 This is a graph showing the effect of the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention on the amount of skin erythema. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0043] The present invention is further described in detail below through specific implementation cases and accompanying drawings. It should be understood that these embodiments are only used to illustrate the present invention and are not used to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. After reading the present invention, various equivalent forms of modifications to the present invention by those skilled in the art are all within the scope of the claims attached to this application.

[0044] Unless otherwise specified, all raw materials and reagents of the present invention are raw materials and reagents from the conventional market.

[0045] The preparation of the agar polysaccharide of the present invention is as follows:

[0046] Wash the agar-agar, dry it, crush it into 100-120 mesh, add it into anhydrous ethanol at a mass ratio of (1-3):(7-10), and oscillate it at a constant temperature to achieve degreasing treatment;

[0047] The agar-agar was filtered and put into water with a solid-liquid ratio of 1:(30-35) g / mL, 5 wt% of an enzyme composition composed of cellulase, papain and neutral protease in a mass ratio of (1-3):(1-2):1 was added, stirred and allowed to stand for 2-3 hours, and then ultrasonic extraction was performed for 30-50 minutes. The ultrasonic extraction temperature was 50-55°C, the power was 100-200W, the frequency was 50-60kHz, and the pH was adjusted to 5-6. After the ultrasonic treatment, the extract was centrifuged at 7000 r / min for 15 minutes, the supernatant was taken, and concentrated to obtain agar-agar crude polysaccharide;

[0048] The crude polysaccharide of Gelidium agar was separated and purified by using a dextran gel column (such as Sephadex G-100), deproteinized, dialyzed (48 hours), and freeze-dried to obtain the polysaccharide of Gelidium agar. The yield was more than 15%, as shown in the following table:

[0049] Table 1 Extraction rate of agar-agar polysaccharides

[0050]

[0051]

[0052] Example 1

[0053] Preparation method of anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition

[0054] 1) 14% European isatis tinctoria seed oil, 13% pink passion fruit (passiflo raincan arnata) seed oil, 12% PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 11% 4-butylresorcinol and 50% glyceryl dibehenate were mixed, heated to 80° C., stirred at 700 rpm and then subjected to ultrasonic treatment, with the ultrasonic parameters set to temperature 55° C., frequency 30 kHz, power 100 W, total time 4 min (ultrasonication 1 s; stop 1 s), to obtain an inner oil phase;

[0055] 2) 8% corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, 3% modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, 3% agar polysaccharide, 0.05% B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and 85.95% deionized water were mixed, heated to 95° C., and stirred at 800 rpm to obtain an external water phase;

[0056] The preparation of the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing horse chestnut bark glycoside and amino acid at a molar ratio of 4:1, adding DMSO and stirring uniformly, heating to 88° C. to completely dissolve the reactants, adding 20 mmol 1% p-toluenesulfonic acid catalyst to carry out an amidation reaction, eluting and removing the organic solvent after the reaction is completed, removing the catalyst by reduced pressure distillation, and purifying to obtain the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside;

[0057] 3) The inner oil phase was dropped into the outer water phase at a volume ratio of 3:7, stirred at 800 rpm, and then subjected to ultrasonic treatment. The ultrasonic parameters were set to a temperature of 25° C., a frequency of 40 kHz, a power of 200 W, and a total time of 4 min (ultrasound for 1 s; stop for 1 s), to obtain an O / W emulsion, which is an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition.

[0058] Example 2

[0059] Preparation method of anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition

[0060] 1) 16% European isatis tinctoria seed oil, 12% pink passion fruit (passiflo raincan arnata) seed oil, 15% PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 12% 4-butylresorcinol and 45% glyceryl dibehenate were mixed, heated to 80°C, stirred at 800 rpm and then ultrasonically treated, with the ultrasonic parameters set to temperature 60°C, frequency 40 kHz, power 100 W, total time 3 min (ultrasonic 1 s; stop 1 s), to obtain an inner oil phase;

[0061] 2) 9% corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, 3% modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, 4% agar polysaccharide, 0.1% B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and 83.9% deionized water were mixed, heated to 96° C., and stirred at 1200 rpm to obtain an external water phase;

[0062] The preparation of the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing horse chestnut bark glycoside and alanine at a molar ratio of 3:1, adding DMSO and stirring uniformly, heating to 85° C. to completely dissolve the reactants, adding 20 mmol 1% p-toluenesulfonic acid catalyst to carry out an amidation reaction, eluting and removing the organic solvent after the reaction is completed, removing the catalyst by reduced pressure distillation, and purifying to obtain the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside;

[0063] 3) The inner oil phase is dropped into the outer water phase at a volume ratio of 3:7, stirred evenly at 1000 rpm, and ultrasonically treated after homogenization. The ultrasonic parameters are set as temperature 30°C, frequency 40 kHz, power 200 W, and total time 3 min (ultrasound 1 s; stop 1 s), to obtain an O / W emulsion, which is an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition.

[0064] Example 3

[0065] Preparation method of anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition

[0066] 1) 16% European isatis tinctoria seed oil, 16% pink passion fruit (passiflo raincan arnata) seed oil, 10% PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 8% 4-butylresorcinol and 50% glyceryl dibehenate were mixed, heated to 75°C, stirred at 700 rpm and then subjected to ultrasonic treatment, with the ultrasonic parameters set to temperature 55°C, frequency 30 kHz, power 120 W, total time 4 min (ultrasonication 1 s; stop 1 s), to obtain an inner oil phase;

[0067] 2) 6% corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, 2% modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, 5% agar polysaccharide, 0.1% B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and 86.9% deionized water were mixed, heated to 96° C., and stirred at 1000 rpm to obtain an external water phase;

[0068] The preparation of the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing horse chestnut bark glycoside and serine at a molar ratio of 6:1, adding DMSO and stirring uniformly, heating to 90° C. to completely dissolve the reactants, adding 20 mmol 1% p-toluenesulfonic acid catalyst to carry out an amidation reaction, eluting and removing the organic solvent after the reaction is completed, removing the catalyst by reduced pressure distillation, and purifying to obtain the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside;

[0069] 3) The inner oil phase was dropped into the outer water phase at a volume ratio of 2:5, stirred evenly at 900 rpm, and ultrasonic treatment was performed after homogenization. The ultrasonic parameters were set as temperature 27°C, frequency 35 kHz, power 150 W, and total time 4 min (ultrasound 1 s; stop 1 s), to obtain an O / W emulsion, which is an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition.

[0070] Example 4

[0071] Preparation method of anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition

[0072] 1) 12% European isatis tinctoria seed oil, 16% pink passion fruit (passiflo raincan arnata) seed oil, 13% PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 12% 4-butylresorcinol and 47% glyceryl dibehenate were mixed, heated to 75°C, stirred at 500 rpm and then ultrasonically treated, with the ultrasonic parameters set to temperature 50°C, frequency 25 kHz, power 80 W, total time 5 min (ultrasonic 1 s; stop 1 s), to obtain an inner oil phase;

[0073] 2) 8% corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, 4% modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, 5% agar polysaccharide, 0.05% B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and 82.95% deionized water were mixed, heated to 98° C., and stirred at 800 rpm to obtain an external water phase;

[0074] The preparation of the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing horse chestnut bark glycoside and threonine at a molar ratio of 4:1, adding DMSO and stirring uniformly, heating to 88° C. to completely dissolve the reactants, adding 20 mmol 1% p-toluenesulfonic acid catalyst to carry out an amidation reaction, eluting and removing the organic solvent after the reaction is completed, removing the catalyst by reduced pressure distillation, and purifying to obtain the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside;

[0075] 3) The inner oil phase is dropped into the outer water phase at a volume ratio of 1:3, stirred evenly at 800 rpm, and subjected to ultrasonic treatment after homogenization. The ultrasonic parameters are set as temperature 25°C, frequency 25 kHz, power 100 W, and total time 5 min (ultrasound 1 s; stop 1 s), to obtain an O / W emulsion, which is an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition.

[0076] Comparative Example 1

[0077] In step 1), hydroxylated lecithin is used to replace ISTASI TINCTORIA seed oil and PASSIFLORA INCARNATA seed oil, and the rest is the same as in Example 1.

[0078] Comparative Example 2

[0079] In step 1), arbutin is used to replace 4-butylresorcinol, and the rest is the same as in Example 1.

[0080] Comparative Example 3

[0081] In step 2), the modified scutellaria baicalensis is replaced by scutellaria baicalensis, and the rest is the same as in Example 1.

[0082] Comparative Example 4

[0083] The outer water phase of step 2) is removed, and only the inner oil phase is retained, and the rest is the same as in Example 1.

[0084] The whitening and soothing composition prepared above was subjected to the following test:

[0085] 1. Human skin patch test

[0086] Qualified patch test equipment was selected, and a closed patch test method was used. 0.020-0.025 mL of the test substance of the product of Examples 1 to 4 was placed in the patch tester, and applied to the curved side of the forearm of 30 volunteer subjects with a low-allergenic tape. The test substance was removed after 24 hours, and the skin reaction was observed 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after removal. The results were recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in the "Technical Specification for Safety of Cosmetics" (2015 edition). The results showed that 0 of the 30 subjects had adverse skin reactions.

[0087] 2. Whitening efficacy test

[0088] 2.1 UV-induced human skin darkening model detection

[0089] The inspection is carried out in accordance with the specific requirements of the "Technical Specifications for Safety of Cosmetics" (2015 edition). The back of the subject is selected as the test site. The area of ​​each blackening test area should be no less than 0.5cm and should be located within each coating area. Determine the MED of the test site of the subject. Use a daylight simulator to irradiate at the same irradiation point at a dose of 0.75 times the MED once a day for 4 consecutive days. The 4 days after the end of irradiation are the skin melanization period and no treatment is performed. On the 5th day after the end of irradiation, the skin of each test area is visually evaluated and instrumentally tested for skin color, and test areas with poor consistency are eliminated. Starting from the 5th day, the corresponding test substance is applied to each blackening test area according to the random table. The subjects should be applied continuously for at least 4 weeks. The skin color should be visually evaluated and instrumentally tested 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks and 4 weeks after application, and recorded. The statistical results are shown in the following table:

[0090] Table 2 Statistical analysis results of ITA°, MI and visual skin color rating before and after product use

[0091]

[0092] As can be seen from Table 2, regarding the improvement degree of the skin ITA value, the ITA values ​​of the embodiments of the present invention are all increased, and compared with the composition of the comparative example, the change rate can be increased by more than 20%, showing a significant improvement, and the increase range of the embodiments is similar, indicating that the composition of the present invention has a stable improvement effect on the ITA value. The ITA values ​​of comparative examples 2-4 are also increased, and the increase range is different, indicating that the use of different ingredients has a certain degree of influence on the effect of the composition of the present invention;

[0093] As for the improvement degree of skin MI value, the MI values ​​of the embodiments of the present invention all decreased, and the change rate of the composition of the comparative example can reach more than 16%, showing a significant improvement. The MI values ​​of comparative examples 2-4 also decreased, and the decrease ranges were different, indicating that the use of different ingredients has a certain degree of influence on the effect of the composition of the present invention;

[0094] As for the degree of improvement in visual skin color grade, the visual skin color grade of the embodiments of the present invention all decreased after use (the smaller the value, the lower the skin color grade, the lighter the skin color), and the decrease in the skin color grade of the embodiments was relatively large. Compared with the comparative example, it can be seen that the composition of the present invention has a more obvious effect in improving skin color;

[0095] It can be seen from the above that the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention has a certain whitening effect, and compared with arbutin, 4-butylresorcinol has a better whitening effect on the skin (Comparative Example 2), and the relevant components of the external water phase of the present invention have a significant synergistic effect on the whitening effect (Comparative Examples 3 and 4).

[0096] 2.2 Tyrosinase activity inhibition assay

[0097] The whitening and soothing compositions of the examples and comparative examples were prepared into 10 mg / mL sample solutions with 0.05 mol / L PBS buffer. After tyrosinase was pre-warmed for 5 minutes, the components were added in sequence according to Table 3, where A1 was the blank background group, A2 was the blank group, A3 was the sample background group, and A4 was the sample group. After being kept in a constant temperature water bath at 28°C for 10 minutes, the absorbance of each group at 475 nm was measured using an ELISA instrument to calculate the inhibition rate of tyrosinase, and the calculation formula was as follows:

[0098] Inhibition rate = [1-(A4-A3) / (A2-A1)] × 100%;

[0099] Table 3 Composition of the reaction solution for tyrosinase activity inhibition

[0100]

[0101] The tyrosinase activity inhibition rate was calculated according to the composition in Table 3. The results are as follows: Figure 1 As shown in the figure, as the product residence time increases, the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention has a certain inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity. Among them, the inhibition rates of comparative examples 2 and 4 on tyrosinase activity are not as good as those of examples 1 and 2; comparative example 2 is a solution in which arbutin is used to replace 4-butylresorcinol, which also has a whitening effect. Figure 1 It can be seen that the inhibitory activity of arbutin on tyrosinase activity is lower than that of 4-butylresorcinol; in Comparative Example 4, the external aqueous phase was removed, and the external aqueous phase was composed of corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, modified horse chestnut bark glycosides, agar polysaccharide, B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and deionized water. Figure 1 It can be seen that after removing the external water phase, the synergistic inhibitory effect of these components on tyrosinase activity was lost. In particular, the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant components such as modified horse chestnut bark glycosides may indirectly inhibit tyrosinase activity by reducing skin inflammation and oxidative stress.

[0102] 3. Anti-blue light and anti-ultraviolet detection

[0103] The compositions of Examples 1, 2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were diluted with deionized water to different concentrations, and zeroed using water as a reference. Then, each product was subjected to ultraviolet spectral scanning in the wavelength range of 280 to 400 nm and blue light spectral scanning in the wavelength range of 400 to 500 nm.

[0104] The results of UV scanning and blue light scanning are respectively Figure 2 , Figure 3 It can be seen that the aqueous solutions of Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention have good absorbance in the wavelength range of 280-330 nm, indicating that they have certain anti-ultraviolet ability; while in Comparative Example 1, hydroxylated lecithin is used to replace the two vegetable oil components. Although hydroxylated lecithin has certain beauty and skin care effects and can improve the moisture and smoothness of the skin, Figure 2 It can be seen that compared with hydroxylated lecithin, the use of European woad (ISATIS TINCTORIA) seed oil and pink passion fruit (PASSIFLORA INCARNATA) seed oil has an anti-ultraviolet effect, and also has a synergistically enhanced anti-blue light effect; the arbutin used in Comparative Example 2 also has whitening and antioxidant functions, and may have maintained the anti-ultraviolet effect of Example 1 to some extent, so there is no obvious performance degradation; and in Comparative Example 3, unmodified horse chestnut glycoside is used to replace the modified horse chestnut glycoside, and it can be seen that the horse chestnut glycoside modified with amino acids can improve the anti-ultraviolet and anti-blue light capabilities compared with the unmodified horse chestnut glycoside, which helps to enhance the anti-photoaging effect; and in Comparative Example 4, the removal of the external water phase may destroy the balance and synergistic effect in the original formula, resulting in a decrease in the product's anti-ultraviolet and anti-blue light capabilities.

[0105] Therefore, the European woad (ISATIS TINCTORIA) seed oil and pink passion fruit (PASSIFLORA INCARNATA) seed oil and external water phase and other ingredients used in the present invention have a certain resistance effect on ultraviolet light and blue light for the overall whitening and soothing composition, and can maintain the balance and synergy of the product.

[0106] 4. Antioxidant testing

[0107] 4.1 DPPH free radical scavenging ability determination

[0108] DPPH was dissolved in ethanol and stirred with a magnetic stirrer for 30 min. 517nmThe absorbance was adjusted to 0.5-0.6, and the whitening and soothing compositions of the embodiments and comparative examples were prepared into 5 mg / mL sample solutions. 10 mL of DPPH was added to 10 mL of the sample solution and mixed well, which was recorded as the A1 sample group. 10 mL of ethanol was added to 10 mL of the sample solution and mixed well, which was recorded as the A2 reference group. 10 mL of ethanol was added to 10 mL of DPPH and mixed well, which was recorded as the A0 blank group. Incubate at 25°C in the dark for 30 minutes, and measure the absorbance at a wavelength of 517 nm. The calculation of DPPH free radical scavenging rate is as follows:

[0109] DPPH free radical scavenging rate (%) = [1-(A2-A1) / A0] × 100%.

[0110] 4.2ABTS + Determination of free radical scavenging ability

[0111] Preparation of ABTS + Free radical working solution: the whitening and soothing compositions of the examples and comparative examples were prepared into 5 mg / mL sample solutions. 10 mL of ABTS was added to 10 mL of the sample solution. + The free radical working solution was mixed by rapid oscillation, incubated at 25°C in the dark for 10 min, and the absorbance value A was measured at a wavelength of 734 nm. p . At the same time, methanol reagent was used instead of ABTS + Free radical working solution, the measured absorbance value is recorded as A c ; Methanol reagent was used instead of sample solution as blank control group, and its measured absorbance value was recorded as A max ; Adjust to zero using methanol reagent.

[0112] ABTS + Free radical scavenging rate (%) = [1-(A p -A c ) / A max ]×100%.

[0113] The above DPPH free radicals and ABTS + The results of free radical scavenging ability assay are as follows Figure 4 As shown, it can be seen that the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention has a significant antioxidant effect. In Comparative Example 1, although the hydroxylated lecithin used has a certain antioxidant effect, the European isatis tinctoria seed oil and the pink passion fruit (passiflora incarnata) seed oil are used in the DHHP and ABTS +The free radical scavenging ability is more significant, and has a better antioxidant effect; in Comparative Example 2, the arbutin used also has whitening and antioxidant functions, and to some extent maintains the same antioxidant effect as the embodiment, so there is no obvious performance decline; in Comparative Examples 3 and 4, the replacement of the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside component and the removal of the external aqueous phase respectively, resulting in a decrease in the antioxidant ability of the product. It can be seen that the components in the external aqueous phase are crucial to improving the DHHP and ABTS+ free radical scavenging rates. The ABTS method is the most widely used indirect detection method for determining free radical scavenging ability. The antioxidant ability is evaluated by measuring that ABTS is oxidized to green ABTS+ under the action of an oxidant and has a characteristic absorption peak at 734nm or 405nm. When antioxidants are present, the generation of ABTS+ is inhibited, causing the reaction system to fade and the absorbance to decrease. Within a certain range, the change in its absorbance is proportional to the degree to which free radicals are scavenged. It can be seen from Comparative Examples 3 and 4 that the relevant components in the external aqueous phase affect the generation of ABTS+ or its reaction with antioxidants, thereby resulting in a decrease in free radical scavenging rate.

[0114] 5. Anti-inflammatory and soothing test

[0115] 5.1 Anti-inflammatory efficacy testing

[0116] Under the stimulation of LPS lipopolysaccharide, the expression of IL-6 and IL-1β proteins can be induced. The ELISA kit was used to detect the effects of the whitening and soothing compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 of the present invention on the expression levels of IL-6 and IL-1β, and the anti-inflammatory effects thereof were observed.

[0117] In the process of skin inflammatory aging, IL-6 and IL-1β are both important factors, such as Figure 5 , Figure 6 As shown, at the same concentration, the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention has a significant inhibitory effect on the expression of IL-6 and IL-1β, indicating that it has a certain anti-inflammatory effect on the skin; while Comparative Examples 1-4 also have an inhibitory effect on the expression of IL-6 and IL-1β, but the inhibition levels are different. It can be seen that the use of different ingredients has different degrees of influence on the anti-inflammatory effect of the composition of the present invention.

[0118] 5.2 Soothing effect test

[0119] Healthy volunteers were selected to use the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention and glycerin at a volume ratio of 5:1 to form an essence water. After using it on the skin, the a* value of the skin red area was detected on day 0, day 7 and day 28. The results were analyzed by VISIA image. Figure 7As shown, it can be seen with the naked eye that the amount of erythema on the skin of subject A is significantly reduced, and the a* value of the skin red area is reduced, indicating that the whitening and soothing composition of the present invention is not irritating to the skin and exhibits a certain soothing and redness-removing effect.

[0120] In summary, the whitening and soothing composition prepared by the present invention, through the water-in-oil structure and the coordination of the functions of each component, forms a stable and balanced structure, which brings about a synergistic effect, forming a functional composition with whitening, anti-photoaging and anti-inflammatory soothing effects, wherein the anti-photoaging effect has anti-ultraviolet, anti-blue light and antioxidant effects.

Claims

1. An anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition, characterized in that: The composition is an O / W emulsion structure, i.e., a structure in which the water phase encapsulates the oil phase; The components of the oil phase include ISTASI TINCTORIA seed oil, PASSIFLORAINCARNATA seed oil, PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 4-Butylresorcinol, glyceryl dibehenate; The components of the water phase include corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, agar polysaccharide, B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and deionized water.

2. The anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: Calculated by mass fraction, in the oil phase, European isatis tinctoria seed oil accounts for 12-16%, pink passion fruit (passiflo raincan arnata) seed oil accounts for 12-16%, PEG-5 rapeseed sterol accounts for 10-15%, 4-butylresorcinol accounts for 8-12%, and glyceryl dibehenate accounts for 45-50%.

3. The anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: In terms of mass fraction, in the aqueous phase, corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer accounts for 6-9%, modified horse chestnut bark glycoside accounts for 2-4%, agar polysaccharide accounts for 2-5%, B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt accounts for 0.05-0.1%, and water is supplemented to 100%.

4. The anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The volume ratio of the oil phase to the water phase in the composition is (1-3):(3-7).

5. The anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation of the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside comprises the following steps: uniformly mixing horse chestnut bark glycoside and amino acid at a molar ratio of (3-6):1, adding DMSO and stirring evenly, heating to 85-90°C, carrying out an amidation reaction under the action of p-toluenesulfonic acid catalyst, eluting and distilling under reduced pressure after the reaction is completed to obtain the modified horse chestnut bark glycoside.

6. The anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 5, characterized in that: The amino acids include hydrophilic amino acids, including one or more of glycine, alanine, threonine, serine, and tyrosine.

7. The anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The extraction of agar-agar polysaccharide comprises the following steps: washing, drying, and crushing the agar-agar to 100-120 meshes, adding the agar-agar to anhydrous ethanol at a mass ratio of (1-3):(7-10) and oscillating at a constant temperature to achieve degreasing treatment; The agar-agar was filtered and put into water with a solid-liquid ratio of 1:(30-40) g / mL, 5 wt% of an enzyme composition composed of cellulase, papain and neutral protease in a mass ratio of (1-3):(1-2):1 was added, stirred and allowed to stand for 2-3 hours, and then ultrasonic extraction was performed for 30-50 minutes. The ultrasonic extraction temperature was 50-55° C., the power was 100-200 W, the frequency was 50-60 kHz, and the pH was adjusted to 5-6. After the ultrasonication, the extract was centrifuged, the supernatant was taken, and concentrated to obtain the agar-agar crude polysaccharide; The crude agar-agar polysaccharide is separated and purified by using a dextran gel column, and then deproteinized, dialyzed and freeze-dried to obtain the agar-agar polysaccharide.

8. A method for preparing an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition, characterized in that: The steps include: 1) mixing ISTASI TINCTORIA seed oil, PASSIFLORAINCARNATA seed oil, PEG-5 rapeseed sterol, 4-butylresorcinol and glyceryl dibehenate, heating to 75-80° C., stirring evenly and then performing ultrasonic treatment to obtain an inner oil phase; The stirring speed is 500-800 rpm; 2) corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, modified horse chestnut bark glycoside, agar polysaccharide, B-reduced coenzyme I sodium salt and deionized water are mixed, heated to 95-98° C., and stirred evenly to obtain an external water phase; The stirring speed is 800-1200 rpm; 3) dropping the inner oil phase into the outer water phase at a volume ratio of (1-3):(3-7), stirring evenly, and then ultrasonically treating after homogenization to obtain an O / W emulsion, which is an anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition; The stirring speed is between 800 and 1000 rpm.

9. The method for preparing the anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 8, characterized in that: In step 1), the ultrasonic parameters of the ultrasonic treatment are set to a temperature of 50° C. to 60° C., a frequency of 25 to 40 kHz, a power of 80 to 100 W, and a total time of 3 to 5 min (ultrasonication for 1 s; stop for 1 s).

10. The method for preparing the anti-photoaging whitening and soothing composition according to claim 8, characterized in that: In step 3), the ultrasonic parameters of the ultrasonic treatment are set to temperature 25° C. to 30° C., frequency 25 to 40 kHz, power 100 to 200 W, and total time 3 to 5 min (ultrasonication 1 s; stop 1 s).

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