Use of zanthoxylum bungeanum extract for skin treatment and composition suitable for use thereof

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a Sichuan pepper extract and a composition comprising said extract for cosmetic and / or dermatological treatments, in particular topical treatments. The extract according to the present invention has moisturizing, soothing, anti-aging, anti-odor and skin care effects on oily skin (including scalp) and on acne-prone skin, in particular by acting on the production of a variety of molecules such as hyaluronic acid, elastin, collagen and laminin. And effects on inhibiting oxidation, free radicals, lipases and inflammatory factors while maintaining skin microbiota.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of Sichuan pepper extracts, more particularly Sichuan pepper berry extracts and compositions comprising said extracts for cosmetic or dermatological treatments, particularly topical treatments.

[0002] "Cosmetic or cosmeceutical treatment" means a treatment of healthy skin and / or skin appendages with the intention of improving or beautifying their appearance and condition. Such treatment does not have a therapeutic purpose.

[0003] The invention relates in particular to the cosmetic and dermo-pharmaceutical industries, which prepare and / or use products intended for treating the skin (including the scalp), mucous membranes and appendages (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails) of mammals - animals or humans, in order to improve their appearance and / or their general condition.

[0004] The demand for new products in these sectors is increasing, in particular for new active ingredients of plant origin, as they offer a combination of efficacy, limited risk of irritation and allergic reactions, reduced side effects and biodegradability, while being able to be labelled / certified and matching the logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade.

[0005] "Holistic" products appear on the market to enhance the daily skin care routine. The aim is to act on the user's sense of well-being, addressing his mood as a whole. The product must provide the user with a good overall feeling both in terms of skin beautification and in terms of sensory and olfactory comfort. Skin beautification will generally mean, for example, smoother skin, with less roughness, greater elasticity, less sagging, more radiant, more even skin tone, with fewer blemishes, while sensory comfort will mean, for example, smooth to the touch, soothed skin, with less redness and tightness, and olfactory comfort by neutralizing or masking body odor.

[0006] Human odor is genetically controlled and systemically influenced by gender and ethnicity, as well as emotional, physiological and environmental factors (influenced by sweat composition and volume). Malodor can affect social interactions by reducing self-confidence.

[0007] Body odor originates from sweat secreted by sweat glands, which can be of two types:

[0008] - Eccrine sweat glands are mainly found on the palms and soles of the feet. Eccrine sweat is responsible for regulating body temperature.

[0009] -Apocrine sweat glands are larger and confined to pubescent areas, primarily the axillae, perineum, and scalp. Apocrine sweat is responsible for body odor.

[0010] Apocrine sweat contains large, odorless and non-volatile molecules. Odor is produced when these molecules break down into small, volatile odorous entities. This breakdown is carried out by enzymes including lipase, which itself is produced by skin bacteria.

[0011] To combat odor, most people use antiperspirants or deodorants every day. Most of these products are antibacterial and / or contain aluminum salts. These products have the ability to tighten skin pores and therefore reduce the flow of sweat, but have many disadvantages, including an increased risk of breast cancer.

[0012] The object of the present invention is to meet all these needs, namely to provide a complete cosmetic product and treatment, in particular a "holistic" treatment, and more specifically to meet the need for body odour management.

[0013] "Body odor management" refers to anti-odor treatments that are intended to reduce, mask, eliminate, absorb and / or limit the generation of bad odors due to bacterial decomposition of sweat.

[0014] To this end, the applicant provides the use of an extract of Sichuan berries of the species Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum simulans for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages. Preferably, according to the invention, the treatment is a topical treatment.

[0015] According to the invention, "topical treatment" or "topical application" means an application intended to act where it is applied: to the skin, to mucous membranes and / or to appendages.

[0016] The Zanthoxylum bungeanum tree is defined by one of two species: Zanthoxylum bungeanum and Zanthoxylum bungeanum. It comes from the Sichuan region (China).

[0017] The Zanthoxylum bungeanum tree used according to the present invention is preferably Zanthoxylum bungeanum.

[0018] It is a prickly and sturdy shrub of the Rutaceae family, which corresponds to the citrus family. The main ethnobotanical properties to which this plant species belongs are relief of dental problems and gastrointestinal disorders, effectiveness against rheumatism and its analgesic effect. The fruit capsule of the Zanthoxylum plant is widely used as a spice in Japan for its strong aromatic smell and mature citrus flavor.

[0019] Sichuan berries come from the rind of the fruit of the Sichuan pepper tree.

[0020] The in vitro test results are given in the description below, showing beneficial cosmetic activity on the skin and its appendages:

[0021] - Reduces body odor at the olfactory level by reducing bacterial lipase activity while favorably maintaining the treatment of the skin microbiota, whereas most products currently on the market are antibacterial. These results were confirmed by in vivo olfactory sweat tests.

[0022] - For skin beautification or general improvement:

[0023] 1) Anti-aging treatments, for a denser, fuller, firmer, softer and more elastic skin, with a more even and / or smoother skin texture and a more radiant complexion, due to the maintenance and stimulation of the synthesis of various molecules of the skin's extracellular matrix (ECM), such as:

[0024] - Elastin, which is responsible for skin resilience and elasticity, and

[0025] - Collagen VII and laminin, which strengthen the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), which ensures good anchoring of the keratinocytes to the basal layer and better communication between the cells, leading to polarization of the keratinocytes and thus to a better skin barrier. This barrier is therefore less fragile, which contributes to the flexibility of the epidermis.

[0026] - Improves anti-free radical and antioxidant effects, especially against DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) free radicals and singlet oxygen, and also has anti-glycation effects, helping to maintain skin ECM.

[0027] An increase in oxidative and free radical forms is associated with age and / or repeated environmental stress (such as UV rays). Free radicals and reactive oxygen species attack membrane lipids and / or functional proteins in the skin's ECM, such as collagen and elastin.

[0028] Regarding glycation, it also affects proteins and / or reducing sugars. These interactions with proteins and / or reducing sugars change the mechanical and elastic properties of the skin ECM, which becomes less flexible and more rigid, but also more relaxed and less reactive. Visually, this leads to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as dull, sagging, lackluster, tired-looking skin that lacks tone and softness.

[0029] 2) Treatment of oily and acne-prone skin, by reducing sebum production and / or astringent effects, which together have the effect of reducing pore size and making them less noticeable, reducing the shiny appearance characteristic of oily skin, and / or making the scalp healthier with less dandruff and associated itching.

[0030] 3) Anti-dandruff scalp treatments, which are by reducing sebum production and / or bacterial lipase activity while maintaining the skin microbiota.

[0031] Sebum leads to an overgrowth of dandruff-causing bacteria on the scalp, such as the Malassezia fungus, which is responsible for the formation of dandruff and the itching associated with it.

[0032] On the scalp surface, Malassezia releases lipase to ensure their growth, which hydrolyzes triacylglycerols into monoacylglycerols and then into fatty acids and glycerol. These free fatty acids inhibit the growth of other microorganisms, promote the proliferation of Malassezia, and penetrate the stratum corneum, causing damage to the skin barrier.

[0033] 4) Moisturizing treatment, accompanied by an increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis and increased keratinocyte differentiation.

[0034] Hyaluronic acid is a major component of the epidermis, contributing to the barrier function as well as maintaining satisfactory hydration of the skin. It is able to absorb 1,000 times its own weight in water. It is in the form of a watery and nourishing gel that fills the spaces between keratinocytes. It prevents skin dryness, which is known to change the texture of the skin, providing it with a rough touch.

[0035] Differentiation of keratinocytes begins in the basal layer of the epidermis. The epidermis is divided into multiple layers:

[0036] -The deeper layer is the stratum basale, which contains keratinocytes, and

[0037] - The most superficial layer is the stratum corneum, which consists of multiple layers of keratinocytes in the final stage of their differentiation and called corneocytes. This highly water-insoluble corneal envelope consists of anucleated corneal cells that are devoid of cytoplasmic organelles and are completely keratinized.

[0038] Keratinocytes migrate from the deeper layers to the most superficial layer and differentiate themselves into corneocytes.

[0039] The stratum corneum is a semipermeable protective layer that prevents water loss and keeps the skin hydrated. It consists of corneocytes, lipids and lamellar bodies and "natural moisturizing factors" (NMF - substances that can bind water in the stratum corneum) that maintain the skin's moisture level at an optimal level.

[0040] Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) characterizes the evaporation of water contained in the skin: the more the skin barrier is damaged, the easier it is for water to evaporate.

[0041] Improved differentiation of keratinocytes leads to a strengthening of the skin barrier and thus to better protection and improved moisturization of the epidermis.

[0042] -On a sensory level:

[0043] The skin soothing treatment, due to the reduction of inflammatory mediators responsible for the appearance of micro-inflammations of the skin causing a feeling of tightness and discomfort, and also due to the moisturizing treatment as described above, results in a softer and less rough skin.

[0044] -On an emotional level:

[0045] A cosmetic treatment adapted to improve consumer well-being by increasing feelings of happiness and enthusiasm and reducing stress and worry, as demonstrated by in vivo testing using electroencephalogram (EEG) analysis.

[0046] According to the invention, these cosmetic effects can be contemplated individually or in combination, making it possible in particular to provide a use of the “holistic” type combining olfactory, beautifying, sensory and emotional effects.

[0047] Therefore, preferably, the present invention provides the use of a Sichuan berry extract of the Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum bungeanum species for at least one treatment selected from:

[0048] - body odour management; and / or

[0049] - Treatment of oily and acne-prone skin; and / or

[0050] - anti-aging treatments; and / or

[0051] - Moisturizing treatment; and / or

[0052] - Soothing treatment.

[0053] According to other preferred features, the Sichuan berry extract of the Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum bungeanum species used according to the present invention can be obtained by conventional solid / liquid extraction techniques, including, for example, maceration, simple decoction, infusion, leaching, reflux extraction, extraction by subcritical or supercritical fluids, extraction with the aid of ultrasound or microwaves or any other physical and / or chemical method, such as percolation, digestion, cryoextraction, enzymatic digestion, etc.

[0054] Preferably, according to the invention, the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, maceration, decoction, leaching, leaching, extraction by subcritical or supercritical fluids, extraction with the aid of ultrasound or microwaves, percolation, digestion, cryoextraction or enzymatic digestion.

[0055] "Maceration" refers to a process consisting of soaking the plant or plant parts in an extraction solvent at room temperature.

[0056] "Leaching" refers to a process that consists of boiling an extraction solvent and then pouring it over the plant or plant part.

[0057] "Decoction" refers to a process consisting of blending plants or plant parts with an extraction solvent and then heating the mixture at boiling point.

[0058] "Digestion" refers to a process consisting of blending the plant or plant parts with an extraction solvent and then heating the mixture below the boiling point.

[0059] Preferably, according to the present invention, the extract is obtained by digesting Sichuan berries in at least one aqueous solvent, alcohol solvent, hydroalcoholic solvent, glycolic solvent or lipid solvent or a mixture thereof, such as water, a C1, C2, C3 or C4 alcohol, or a polyol selected from pentanediol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexanol, caprylic / capric triglyceride (GTCC), vegetable oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0060] Preferably, the extraction solvent is a glycol solvent, and more preferably propylene glycol.

[0061] The extract of Sichuan berry Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum bungeanum used according to the present invention contains xanthoxylum bungeanum as a main component, polyphenols including flavonoids, carbohydrates and proteins.

[0062] The extract can be used as such or in a composition, diluted in a physiologically acceptable medium. The nature of the medium is defined as a function of the nature of the Sichuan berry extract and also of the use of the composition formed: a simple ingredient, a more complex galenic form of the final composition for the consumer.

[0063] According to the present invention, "physiologically acceptable medium" refers to but is not limited to aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, microemulsions, aqueous gels, anhydrous gels, serums, vesicular dispersions or powders.

[0064] "Physiologically acceptable" means that the composition is suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with the mucous membranes, appendages (nails, hair and body hair), scalp and skin of mammals (especially humans), can be ingested or injected into the skin, and has no risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic reaction, etc. This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms the excipient of the composition.

[0065] According to the present invention, the physiologically acceptable medium can be an aqueous, hydroglycolic or hydroalcoholic solution, or a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a microemulsion. Preferably, it is a hydroglycolic solution. Preferably, the physiologically acceptable medium is a blend of propylene glycol and water.

[0066] Thus, the present invention encompasses a non-therapeutic, cosmetic or nutritional topical treatment method for beautifying or improving the appearance and general condition of the skin and / or its appendages, as well as for treating imperfections thereof, by administering to a subject in need thereof an effective amount of at least one Sichuan berry extract according to the invention or a composition comprising it, said Sichuan berry extract or composition being in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0067] The effective amount of Sichuan berry extract according to the present invention, i.e. its dosage, depends on the use of the composition. It depends on various factors, such as the patient's age, condition, severity of the disorder and the mode of administration. An effective amount refers to a non-toxic amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

[0068] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention containing at least Sichuan berry extract, in order to be present in an effective amount, the Sichuan berry extract is generally present in an amount ranging from 0.000001% to 15%, preferably ranging from 0.00001% to 10%, based on the total weight of the composition, depending on the use of the composition and the desired effect, which is either more or less significant. More preferably, the effective amount is between 0.0001% and 5% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0069] All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements made are at 25°C, unless otherwise specified.

[0070] According to other characteristics, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be combined with one or more other treatment methods directed to the skin, such as luminotherapy, heat or aromatherapy treatments.

[0071] A device with multiple compartments or a kit may be proposed for applying the above method, which may include, for example and without limitation: a first compartment containing a composition comprising the Sichuan berry extract of the present invention, and in a second compartment containing an additional active ingredient, in which case the composition contained in the first and second compartments is considered a combined composition for simultaneous, separate or stepwise use in time, in particular for use in one of the above treatment methods.

[0072] For reference, for cosmetic facial treatments, the European standard dosage for creams is 2.72 mg / cm 2 / day / person, and for cosmetic body treatments, the European standard dosage for lotions is 0.5mg / cm 2 / day / person.

[0073] According to other advantageous characteristics, the Sichuan berry extract according to the invention can be combined with one or more other active ingredients in effective concentrations, which can act synergistically or additively for strengthening and achieving the desired effects described for the invention, such as the following agents: filtered radiation, in particular UVA, UVB, IR or radiation generated by blue light, hydration, moisturizing, humectants, sedatives, muscle relaxants, slimming, restructuring, firming, re-plumping, lifting, smoothing, action on blood microcirculation, inflammation, free radicals, anti-aging, anti-fine lines and wrinkles, whitening, action on skin color, anti-glycation, anti-carbonylation, pigmentation promotion, action on the stratum corneum, action on the dermal-epidermal junction, action on HSP protein production, action on skin firmness, elasticity and tone, action on hair growth or anti-regeneration (including eyelashes and eyebrows), action on the eye contour (dark circles and eye bags), peptides, vitamins, etc. These active ingredients can be obtained from plant materials, such as plant extracts or products of plant culture or fermentation production methods.

[0074] The Personal Care Products Council (International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook, published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, DC) describes a non-limiting variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients routinely used in the skin care industry that can be used as additional ingredients for use in the compositions of the present invention, provided that they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients in the composition and especially with the active ingredients of the present invention. In addition, the nature of these additional ingredients should not unacceptably alter the benefits of the active ingredients of the present invention. These additional ingredients can be synthetic or natural, such as plant extracts or produced by biological fermentation processes.

[0075] Additional skin care actives that are particularly useful in combination with the compositions can be found in the commercial literature of Sederma and on the website www.sederma.fr, in the commercial literature of Croda and on the website www.croda.fr.

[0076] More specifically, the Sichuan berry extract according to the invention can be combined with at least one compound chosen from: B, C, E, F, D and A vitamin compounds, especially compounds such as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA, peptides, aluminum salts, phosphates, magnesium oxide, zirconium hydrochloride, ceramides, which are classic active ingredients used in topical cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

[0077] Furthermore, the present invention provides the use of the Sichuan berry extract of the Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum bungeanum species as described above for the preparation of the composition for cosmetic treatment as described above.

[0078] The composition for the use according to the invention may be provided in any galenical form defined according to the use of the composition and the site of administration (examples are given below).

[0079] The composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, body, neckline, scalp, hair, eyelashes, body hair in any form or vehicle known to those skilled in the art, in particular in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, alone or as a premix, or as a vehicle for a premix in a combined form, introduced or absorbed in a carrier such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles or macrosponges, microsponges or nanosponges, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or absorbed on organic polymer powders, talc, bentonite, spores or exines and other inorganic or organic carriers.

[0080] In cosmetics, mention may be made in particular of use in the range of skin care for the face, body, hair and body hair and in the range of make-up treatments, in particular of the eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0081] For example, the galenic form of the composition may be a lotion, cream, butter, milk, solid form, foam, gel, deodorant, antiperspirant, shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, facial mask, shower gel, or the like.

[0082] As another example, in the case of anti-odour use, the galenic form of the composition may be a cream, spray, aerosol, roll-on or deodorant stick for face, feet and / or body. For an "overall" product, a preferred galenic form may be a body lotion.

[0083] Galenic preparations can enter into different product lines for personal care and / or beautification products including skin care, cleansing, makeup, cleansing, sun protection, artificial tanning, pre-shave, shave or after-shave, moisturizers, humectants, emollients, conditioners, exfoliants, astringents, depilatories or antiperspirants, deodorants, etc.

[0084] The composition can be incorporated onto nonwoven or woven materials, with natural or synthetic fibers, wool or any material intended to come into contact with the skin and which can be used in clothing, including tights and socks, briefs, day or night underwear, tissues, handkerchiefs or fabrics, to apply the cosmetic effect of the composition by contact with the skin / textile and to enable sustained topical delivery (cosmetics-textiles).

[0085] Therefore, according to the present invention, there is also provided a woven or non-woven fabric comprising at least one Sichuan berry extract for use in non-therapeutic cosmetic treatments.

[0086] Details

[0087] The present invention will be better understood from the following description of the embodiments, in vitro tests and figures described below. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0088] [ Figure 1 ] represents a photograph showing an anti-lipase test, showing an agar medium containing tributyrin which was not contacted with the extract according to the present invention (control case).

[0089] [ Figure 2 ] represents a similar photograph, but in contact with an extract according to the invention.

[0090] A. Examples of obtaining Sichuan berry extract and compositions containing the same according to the present invention

[0091] Plant material: Sichuan berries of the Zanthoxylum species.

[0092] Impregnation solvent: Propylene glycol

[0093] Protocol: Macerate the berries in propylene glycol at 70 to 100° C. for 1 to 6 hours, then filter the macerate to remove solid plant debris. Several successive filtrations are carried out, with a size between 5 and 0.1 μm. The filtered macerate constitutes the berry extract according to the invention. Advantageously, according to this method, an extract of Sichuan berries enriched in xanthoxylum bungeanum is obtained, with a xanthoxylum bungeanum content ranging from 10% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the dry extract. This molecule is determined by high performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC).

[0094] In order to obtain a composition comprising the extract according to the invention, the filtered maceration solution obtained is mixed with a physiologically acceptable base consisting of a water-propylene glycol mixture. The ratio of water to propylene glycol in the composition is between 0:100 and 30:70.

[0095] A. Evaluation of various activities of the extracts according to the invention by in vitro and in vivo tests

[0096] a. Body odor

[0097] i. Lipase activity

[0098] principle

[0099] Lipases are able to hydrolyze triglycerides with long fatty acid chains into glycerol and the corresponding volatile fatty acids which are responsible for the unpleasant odor.

[0100] Lipase is widely distributed in bacteria, yeast and filamentous fungi. It is produced by Gram-positive bacteria such as Corynebacterium, Propionibacterium, Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus and Gram-negative bacteria such as Pseudomonas.

[0101] In the axillary area, Corynebacterium is the main cause of axillary malodor. Gram-negative bacteria rarely cause axillary malodor.

[0102] plan

[0103] The tributyrin substrate (fat soluble) is hydrolyzed by lipase into glycerol and butyric acid (water soluble). When a fat soluble substrate is mixed with a liquid medium or deposited on agar, the medium becomes turbid. When the substrate becomes water soluble after the action of lipase, this turbidity of the medium disappears in proportion to the hydrolysis.

[0104] Two methods were used to demonstrate the anti-lipase activity of the extracts according to the invention:

[0105] - A method in liquid culture medium for which the turbidity is measured spectrophotometrically at 620 nm.

[0106] - Method on agar plates, for which turbidity is assessed visually.

[0107] result

[0108] 1. Analysis in Liquid Culture Medium

[0109] Changes in the lipase activity of Corynebacterium xerosis over time. The effect of a composition comprising 3% of an extract according to the invention was compared with a control (n=3):

[0110] [Table 1]

[0111] Comparison 3% of the extract according to the invention Change (%); Significance 0 hours 0.00±0.00 0.00±0.00 0.0%; nsd* 48 hours 57.00±0.06 43.70±1.31 -23.3％；p<0.0001 72 hours 77.40±0.19 40.50±0.20 -47.7％；p<0.0001

[0112] *nsd: non-significant data

[0113] These results show that 3% of the extract according to the invention significantly reduced the lipase activity of the dried Corynebacterium at 48 hours (-23.3%; p<0.0001) and at 72 hours (-47.7%; p<0.0001).

[0114] 1. Analysis in agar medium

[0115] [ Figure 1 ] represents a photograph of an agar medium containing tributyrin which was not contacted with the extract according to the present invention (control case) after 48 hours at 37° C. under anaerobic conditions.

[0116] [ Figure 2 ] represents a photograph of an agar medium containing tributyrin contacted with 3% of the extract according to the invention after 48 hours at 37° C. under anaerobic conditions.

[0117] By comparing these two figures, we can see that the turbidity present in the agar medium containing 3% of the extract according to the present invention is less than in the control case, which means that tributyrin has been hydrolyzed to a greater extent and therefore the extract according to the present invention reduces the lipase activity of the dried Corynebacterium under the test conditions.

[0118] in conclusion

[0119] Both methods, in liquid and in agar medium, demonstrated that the lipase activity of dried Corynebacteria was reduced when in contact with the extract according to the invention.

[0120] i. Protection of bacterial flora

[0121] principle

[0122] Corynebacterium xerosis and Staphylococcus epidermis are important commensal strains in the axillary area. Staphylococcus epidermis is a beneficial probiotic skin strain and Corynebacterium xerosis is the main strain responsible for malodor.

[0123] The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) is the lowest concentration of an antibacterial agent required to inhibit visible growth of the strain being tested. The higher the percentage, the less antibacterial activity the tested product has.

[0124] plan

[0125] The culture medium was inoculated with dried Corynebacterium and Staphylococcus epidermidis strains and different percentages of the extract according to the invention, or with products known on the market with antibacterial effects (triclosan or phenonip TM ) The culture medium was inoculated with 1% tantalum (0.1% tantalum) and then the test article was incubated at 32.5°C ± 2.5°C for 48 hours. After incubation, the presence or absence of turbidity was observed, wherein the presence of turbidity indicated bacterial growth.

[0126] result

[0127] The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of the extract according to the invention was compared with two products on the market (n=3).

[0128] [Table 2]

[0129]

[0130]

[0131] These results show that two preservatives used in cosmetic products, triclosan and phenonip TM The extracts according to the invention had very low MICs against Staphylococcus epidermidis, 0.013% and 0.63%, respectively, whereas the extracts according to the invention had MICs greater than 20%.

[0132] Similarly, Phenonip TM The dry Corynebacterium showed a MIC of 0.63%, whereas the extract according to the present invention had a MIC of 14%.

[0133] in conclusion

[0134] The extract according to the invention is therefore a product that avoids disrupting the microbiome, since high concentrations are required to obtain 0.63% Phenonip TM Or the equivalent result of 0.013% triclosan and altered the two most important microbial strains of the axillary area. Thus, the extract according to the invention does not alter bacterial growth.

[0135] i. In vivo olfactory evaluation of sweat

[0136] plan

[0137] The study was conducted on 14 volunteers: 3 men and 11 women. Five experts participated in the study as panelists. They were trained and experienced in odor and perfume evaluation.

[0138] The intensity of armpit odor was assessed every hour from 0 to 8 hours after application of a composition comprising 3% of an extract according to the invention or a placebo. The study was performed over 3 days: the first day was for odor cleansing, the second day was for application of a placebo on one side and a composition comprising 3% of an extract according to the invention on the other side, and vice versa on the third day.

[0139] The volunteers were asked not to eat spicy food, onion or garlic, and not to use odorous products one day before the test and until the end of the third day.

[0140] Once the product was applied, odor was assessed hourly and a score was given for each axilla on a scale of 0 to 5: 0 (no pleasant odor), 1 (very slightly pleasant odor), 2 (slightly pleasant odor), 3 (normal odor), 4 (pleasant odor), and 5 (very pleasant odor).

[0141] result

[0142] Variation of the odor intensity over time. The effect of a composition containing 3% of an extract according to the invention was compared with the same composition without the extract according to the invention (placebo):

[0143] [Table 3]

[0144]

[0145] These results show that, for the volunteer group, the composition comprising 3% of the extract according to the invention significantly reduced the bad armpit odor 8 hours after application (-35.4%; p<0.01).

[0146] These results show that, for the expert panel, the composition comprising 3% of the extract according to the invention significantly reduced the bad axillary odor 8 hours after application (-35.4%; p<0.01).

[0147] in conclusion

[0148] These results show that the extract according to the invention reduces body odor in the axillary area.

[0149] a. Anti-aging

[0150] i. Elastin synthesis

[0151] principle

[0152] Elastin is an extracellular matrix molecule. The elasticity of the skin changes during aging due to improper assembly of elastin fibers and therefore a decrease in the amount of elastin produced.

[0153] plan

[0154] When the cells reach confluence, they are contacted with the extract according to the invention in the culture medium or not contacted (for the control case) and then incubated for 5 days at 37°C and 5% CO2. After this contact, the cell layer is rinsed, fixed and stained with anti-elastin antibodies. The markings are displayed using fluorescent secondary antibodies and photographs are taken under a microscope. Elastin production can be quantified by image analysis of these photographs. The nuclear is contrast-labeled using the fluorescent dye HOESCHT, which labels DNA, to evaluate cell populations and therefore weight the obtained fluorescence data.

[0155] result

[0156] Changes in elastin production by fibroblasts. Effect of 0.14% of the extract according to the invention compared with a control (n=3):

[0157] [Table 4]

[0158]

[0159] These results show that 0.14% of the extract according to the invention significantly increased the production of elastin by fibroblasts by 141% (p<0.01).

[0160] i. Strengthening of the dermal-epidermal junction

[0161] principle

[0162] The DEJ ensures adhesion between the dermis and the epidermis. During aging, a decrease in the synthesis of its components, especially collagen VII and laminin, is observed. Aging of the DEJ has a significant impact on the elasticity of the skin and the loss of its vitality.

[0163] plan

[0164] Human keratinocytes (HK) were cultured at subconfluence and were contacted or not contacted (for control conditions) with the extract according to the invention. After this contact, the synthesis of collagen VII and laminin was evaluated using an ELISA-type kit. The number of cells was estimated using the Hoechst method and was used to standardize the results.

[0165] result

[0166] Changes in collagen VII production by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.26% of the extract according to the invention compared with a control (n=5):

[0167] [Table 5]

[0168]

[0169] These results show that 0.26% of the extract according to the invention significantly increased the production of collagen VII by keratinocytes by 47% (p<0.01).

[0170] Changes in laminin production by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.26% of the extract according to the invention compared with a control (n=5):

[0171] [Table 6]

[0172]

[0173] These results show that 0.26% of the extract according to the invention significantly increased the production of laminin by keratinocytes by 58% (p<0.01).

[0174] in conclusion

[0175] These results show that the extract according to the invention has a direct effect on strengthening the DEJ by stimulating the synthesis of laminin and collagen VII.

[0176] The extract according to the present invention can improve skin aging associated with DEJ structural destruction by counteracting the loss of softness and elasticity caused by DEJ structural destruction.

[0177] i. Antioxidant capacity

[0178] principle

[0179] Oxidative stress plays a central role in the skin's response to various stresses. Free radicals (H2O2, OH·, O2-, O2, 1 O2...) causes damage to proteins, lipids and DNA, leading to premature aging of the skin.

[0180] plan

[0181] For DPPH test: DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) is a stable free radical that is widely used to detect free radical scavengers. The molecule, when losing its free radical properties, transforms into DPPH-H (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl). This transformation is accompanied by a color change from purple to yellow through redox, which can be followed in real time by spectrophotometry at 490nm.

[0182] For the O2 singlet test: A system generating O2 singlets receives the product according to the invention. The degradation of uric acid is followed spectrophotometrically at 292 nm.

[0183] result

[0184] Changes in DDPH production (n=6). Effect of 2 or 3% of the extract according to the invention compared with the control:

[0185] [Table 7]

[0186]

[0187] These results show that the extract according to the invention significantly reduces the presence of DPPH.

[0188] Changes in singlet O2 production (n=2). Effect of 2 or 3% of the extract according to the invention compared with the control:

[0189] [Table 8]

[0190]

[0191] These results show that the extract according to the invention significantly reduces the presence of singlet O2.

[0192] in conclusion

[0193] The extract according to the invention has a high antioxidant capacity, allowing to effectively combat premature skin aging.

[0194] i. Non-enzymatic saccharification of BSA

[0195] principle

[0196] The glycation of proteins and reducing sugars in the skin is also a cause of skin aging.

[0197] The formation of many glycated proteins (whose functional, enzymatic, and structural properties are changed) affects the normal functioning of cells or organisms.

[0198] The result is a change in the mechanical and elastic properties of the dermal extracellular matrix, which becomes less flexible and more rigid, but also more relaxed and less reactive, also leading to a duller skin tone.

[0199] plan

[0200] The study of non-enzymatic glycation was carried out between the model protein serum albumin (which served as the target) and edible reducing sugars from fruits. In the presence or absence of the product according to the invention, the protein is progressively glycated (bound to sugars) in an irreversible manner. This change is followed by fluorescence.

[0201] result

[0202] Changes in saccharification (n=2). Effect of 2 or 3% of the extract according to the invention compared with the control:

[0203] [Table 9]

[0204]

[0205] The results show the strong anti-glycation potential of the extracts according to the invention.

[0206] in conclusion

[0207] The extract according to the invention has anti-glycation capabilities, which also help fight skin aging.

[0208] a. Oily and / or acne-prone skin

[0209] i. Convergence

[0210] principle

[0211] Astringent substances, which shrink or tighten body tissues by gathering them together, are ideal for:

[0212] - Tightens enlarged pores and reduces excess oil and sweat secretion;

[0213] - Remove excess sebum;

[0214] - Precipitate amino acids that cause body odor. These amino acids are formed from free amino acids produced by keratinocytes, secreted proteins or bacterial catabolism.

[0215] The in-tube assay for determining the astringent capacity of the product is based on tannin-polymer interactions that lead to the formation of insoluble polymer-tannin complexes, which then precipitate. The difference in optical density (OD) before and after precipitation corresponds to the astringent capacity of the product.

[0216] plan

[0217] The extract according to the invention on the one hand and red wine on the other hand were incubated with and without methylcellulose and the optical density at 280 nm was measured by spectrophotometer.The precipitated fraction of the extract corresponds to the astringent tannin fraction.

[0218] result

[0219] The astringency of the extract according to the invention was compared with red wine (n=4 for the extract according to the invention and n=12 for the red wine):

[0220] [Table 10]

[0221]

[0222] Tannic red wine was considered as a positive control for astringency. Its astringency was 1334 ppm. The extract according to the present invention showed a statistically significant astringency of 295% higher than that of tannic red wine.

[0223] i. Anti-seborrheic properties

[0224] principle

[0225] The skin has many pores on its surface, whose function is to excrete excess sebum and impurities, such as dead cells and sweat, from the skin. Oily skin is associated with excessive sebum secretion by sebocytes. Excessive sebum leads to changes in the properties of the skin and scalp, for example by increasing the formation of papules and blackheads and clogging the pores, which then become dilated and more visible, leading to uneven skin texture and / or overgrowth of dandruff-causing bacteria, such as Malassezia fungi on the scalp.

[0226] Anti-seborrheic cosmetic active ingredients will counteract this development by reducing sebum production, which will have the effect of tightening skin pores, smoothing the skin and reducing the oily / shiny appearance and irregular texture typical of oily skin and / or making the scalp healthier with less dandruff and associated itching.

[0227] plan

[0228] Sebaceous gland cells were inoculated in their growth medium. At confluence, cells were contacted with or not contacted (control case) with the extract according to the invention for 48 hours. After removal of the culture medium, the monolayer was incubated with a Nile Red marker of intracellular lipids, which estimates the amount of lipids in the cells. Estimation of viability was performed in parallel on the same layer using a fluorescent dye.

[0229] result

[0230] Changes in lipid synthesis of sebaceous gland cells. Effect of 2% of the extract according to the invention compared with a control (n=2):

[0231] [Table 11]

[0232]

[0233] These results show that exposure of sebocytes to 2% of the extract according to the invention reduces the amount of lipids in the sebum-producing cells.

[0234] in conclusion

[0235] The extracts according to the invention can be used to treat skin disorders associated with oily skin or skin with a tendency to become oily, such as shine, shiny appearance and size and number of pores, to provide the skin with a smoother, more even, more harmonious appearance and / or to make the scalp healthier with less dandruff and related itching.

[0236] a. Skin hydration

[0237] i. Hyaluronic acid synthesis

[0238] plan

[0239] Human keratinocytes were cultured at subconfluence and then contacted with the extract according to the invention or not (for control case). After this contact, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid was determined using the ELISA method. The cell concentration was estimated using the Hoechst method.

[0240] result

[0241] Changes in hyaluronic acid production by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.26% of the extract according to the invention compared with a control (n=5):

[0242] [Table 12]

[0243]

[0244]

[0245] These results show that the extract according to the invention significantly increases the hyaluronic acid synthesis of keratinocytes.

[0246] i. Keratinocyte differentiation

[0247] plan

[0248] Human keratinocytes were cultured at subconfluence and then contacted with the extract according to the invention or not (for control case).Differentiation was monitored visually by observing the phenotype of the keratinocytes over 4 days.

[0249] result

[0250] [Table 13]

[0251]

[0252] Visually, in the control, the untreated cells showed a continuous layer of keratinocytes with clearly marked cell outlines, whereas in the presence of 3% of the product according to the invention, the cells shrank and the contacts between the cells decreased until there were gaps between the cells, an aspect characteristic of the late differentiation of keratinocytes.

[0253] in conclusion

[0254] The extract according to the invention increases keratinocyte differentiation, helps protect the epidermis and improves hydration.

[0255] a. Soothe skin

[0256] principle

[0257] Inflammatory mediators are very present in micro-inflammatory phenomena. Reducing the presence of these mediators has the effect of reducing the feeling of discomfort and redness in sensitive skin.

[0258] plan

[0259] Normal human skin fibroblasts (NHDF) are cultivated under confluence. Under this stage, they are contacted with the product to test 24 hours. After this contact stage, cells are irradiated with UVB, and then cells are contacted with the product to test 24 hours time period again. The amount of PGE2 and IL-6 synthesized is measured in culture supernatant by ELISA. The cell number is assessed to normalize data. Analysis of variance and Student's t test are carried out to the significance of the evaluation result to unpaired series.

[0260] result

[0261] Changes in IL-6 and PGE2 production by fibroblasts. Effect of 3% of the extract according to the invention compared with the control (n=3):

[0262] [Table 14]

[0263]

[0264] Advantageously, therefore, the extract according to the invention strongly and significantly reduces both pro-inflammatory messengers.

[0265] in conclusion

[0266] These results show that the extract according to the present invention reduces skin micro-inflammation. Therefore, the extract according to the present invention can be used to relieve skin discomfort such as redness, tightness, etc. of sensitive skin.

[0267] a. In vivo assessment of well-being improvements using EEG analysis

[0268] principle

[0269] Many studies have shown that skin beauty and quality are closely linked to emotional well-being, and conversely, when a person is satisfied with the beauty and quality of their skin, emotional well-being improves.

[0270] Undesirable skin effects, such as skin sensitivity or dryness, redness, tightness, acne, increased sweating and / or the development of unpleasant odor, may be related to intrinsic, psychological factors such as stress or hormonal factors or to extrinsic factors such as decreased quality of life.

[0271] For a "holistic" approach to healthy body care, there is interest in positively enhancing the user's mood by applying a care product.

[0272] Emotions are generated by communication between neurons in our brains. This communication induces brain waves with a frequency of 1 Hz to 80 Hz and an amplitude of 10 μV to 100 μV, which can be recorded by an electroencephalograph using electrodes placed at four points in the prefrontal cortex.

[0273] The frequencies of these waves are known to be related to the psychological state of the consumer. Therefore, they can be used to detect emotional states of the mind, more specifically, by observing alpha waves (8-12 Hz) and beta waves (12-30 Hz). Alpha waves have been shown to occur primarily when the subject is relaxed or at rest, and thus can be associated with brain inactivity, and beta waves occur when the subject is active, and thus can be associated with excitement, such as intense mental activity or a state of stress.

[0274] plan

[0275] The study was conducted on 13 healthy volunteers over the age of 18: 2 males and 11 females. Unlike the in vivo olfactory test described above, the panelists were not trained or accustomed to conducting this type of test.

[0276] The study was conducted in 5 phases:

[0277] 1. Two hours before the meeting, ask group members to wash their forearms with mild soap.

[0278] 2. Ask the panelists to relax to obtain high-quality EEG.

[0279] 3. Start EEG recording before applying the cream. The panelists have to apply the cream until it is absorbed by the skin.

[0280] 4. Then, ask the panelists to gently stroke the cream application area.

[0281] 5. Stop recording.

[0282] Because scents are known to affect emotions by evoking memories, it was requested not to smell the product before, during, or after application in order to avoid distorting the EEG results.

[0283] Creams for research: The cream described in Example 4 below and the placebo cream. The placebo cream used was the same as in Example 4 below, except that it did not contain the extract according to the invention, but it contained a solvent for the extract according to the invention.

[0284] The panelists also conducted a sensory evaluation of the creams containing the extract according to the invention and the placebo. It was found that the creams were indistinguishable from the sensory point of view (hardness, viscosity, rigidity, wettability, spreadability, thickness, slip, etc.).

[0285] The two analyses (EEG and sensory evaluation) were not performed on the same day.

[0286] The classification of emotions can be based on the dimensional model of valence and arousal. Russell's two-dimensional model was used.

[0287] The valence (“pleasant” when positive, and “unpleasant” when negative) and arousal (“excited” when positive, and “calm” when negative) corresponding to the subject's satisfaction and happiness constitute the abscissa and ordinate of the two-dimensional model, respectively.

[0288] To determine valence, the difference in the ratio of alpha / beta waves between the two cortical hemispheres was calculated. Left frontal deactivation has been shown to be generally associated with negative emotions, and right frontal deactivation with positive emotions.

[0289] To determine arousal, the ratio of beta waves to alpha waves is calculated. As indicated above, beta waves are associated with states of alertness or excitement, while alpha waves are more dominant in states of relaxation.

[0290] Russell's two-dimensional model is divided into 4 parts:

[0291] -Q1, when valence is above -0.006 and arousal is above 0.914. The corresponding emotions are happiness, excitement, euphoria or joy.

[0292] -Q2, when the valence is above -0.006 and the arousal is below 0.914. The corresponding emotions are satisfaction, concentration, comfort, relaxation or calmness.

[0293] -Q3, when the valence is lower than -0.006 and the arousal is lower than 0.914. The corresponding emotions are sleepiness or boredom.

[0294] -Q4, when the valence is lower than -0.006 and the arousal is higher than 0.914. The corresponding emotions are stress, annoyance or tension.

[0295] result

[0296] Changes in potency and arousal. The effect of a cream containing 2% of an extract according to the invention compared with a placebo cream:

[0297] [Table 15]

[0298]

[0299] These results show that the cream containing the extract according to the invention increases valence and decreases arousal compared to the placebo cream. This means that valence changes towards a more pleasant mood and arousal changes towards a calmer mood.

[0300] The cream containing the extract according to the invention immediately improved the well-being of the volunteers by increasing the feeling of happiness and enthusiasm and reducing the feeling of annoyance and stress, it also reduced sweating and the associated unpleasant odour.

[0301] A. Galenic Examples

[0302] Various cosmetic preparations are described below, which comprise the extracts according to the invention, in particular formulated in active ingredients as described in point B above.

[0303] Additional active ingredients may be added in appropriate phases according to their hydrophobic, hydrophilic or amphiphilic nature, which play a role in supporting and / or increasing the activity of the active ingredients according to the invention. These ingredients may belong to any category according to their function(s), site of application (scalp, face, body, neck, chest, hands, etc.), desired end effect and target consumer, such as specifically anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, anti-dark circles, firming, anti-glycation, slimming, plumping, soothing, muscle relaxing, anti-redness, sensitive skin, anti-stretch mark, detoxifying, mattifying, etc.

[0304] Active ingredient according to the invention: Sichuan berry extract according to the invention in a water-propylene glycol base.

[0305] It is suggested that this ingredient be present at a level of 1 to 5%, preferably 3%, in the composition. These levels may be varied without departing from the scope of the invention, depending on whether a more or less pronounced effect is sought.

[0306] Example 1: Roll-on deodorant

[0307] [Table 16]

[0308]

[0309]

[0310] plan

[0311] Weigh out phase A and heat. Weigh out phase B, homogenize and heat. Mix phase B into phase A under stirring. Weigh out phase C. Add phase C to phase B+A with stirring. Allow to cool. Weigh out phase D and add to cooled phase C+B+A with stirring.

[0312] Example 2: Deodorant spray

[0313] [Table 17]

[0314]

[0315] plan:

[0316] Weigh out phase A and add phase B under stirring. Add phase C to phase B+A under stirring. Add phase D to phase C+B+A under stirring. In a container, add phase E to phase D+C+B+A.

[0317] Example 3: Face and body balm

[0318] [Table 18]

[0319]

[0320] plan:

[0321] Weigh out phase A and heat to 85°C in a water bath. Weigh out phase B and heat to 85°C in a water bath. Add phase B to phase A, stirring vigorously. Weigh out phase C and add to phase A+B with stirring. Add phase D to phase A+B+C at about 45°C and homogenize. Weigh out phase E and use it to adjust the pH.

[0322] Example 4: Body Cream

[0323] [Table 19]

[0324]

[0325] process:

[0326] Weigh water and glycerin and add xanthan gum. Mix until fully dispersed. Add Arlacel TM LC and heat. Homogenize and let stand. Weigh phase B. Add phase B to phase A while stirring. Weigh phase C and add phase C to phase A+B when the temperature is below 40°C. Homogenize.

[0327] Examples of other ingredients that may be added to these preparations:

[0328] Nordic Cotton: Active ingredient sold by Crodarom that helps strengthen the skin's barrier function, soothes the most sensitive skin, and moisturizes and protects the hair.

[0329] Phytessence TM Blue Daisy: an ingredient sold by Crodarom, soothes sensitive skin and reduces feelings of discomfort by acting on the synthesis of inflammatory mediators.

[0330] Bamboo Tea EC: An ingredient sold by Crodarom that stimulates cell metabolism while maintaining the skin's moisture levels and protecting the skin from external aggressions.

Claims

1. Use of an extract of Sichuan berries of the species Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum bungeanum for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or its appendages.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the treatment is local.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the treatment is selected from: - body odour management; and / or - Treatment of oily skin, including the scalp, and acne-prone skin; and / or - anti-aging treatments; and / or - Moisturizing treatment; and / or - Soothing treatment.

4. Use according to claim 3, wherein the body odour treatment is an anti-odour treatment adapted to act on the lipase activity of bacteria while maintaining the bacterial flora.

5. Use according to claim 3, wherein the anti-aging treatment is suitable for maintaining and stimulating skin elasticity and suppleness.

6. Use according to claim 3 or 5, wherein the anti-aging is an anti-free radical and anti-glycation treatment suitable for maintaining the dermal extracellular matrix.

7. Use according to claim 3, wherein the oily and / or acne-prone skin treatment is suitable for acting on sebum production.

8. Use according to claim 3, wherein the scalp treatment is an anti-dandruff treatment suitable for acting on sebum production and / or lipase activity of bacteria.

9. Use according to claim 3, wherein the moisturizing treatment is adapted to act by stimulating hyaluronic acid synthesis and strengthening the skin barrier.

10. Use according to claim 3, wherein the soothing treatment is adapted to act by preventing the occurrence of skin micro-inflammations.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the treatment is suitable for improving the well-being of the consumer.

12. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, by maceration, decoction, leaching, leaching, subcritical or supercritical fluids, with the aid of ultrasound or microwaves, percolation, digestion, cryoextraction or enzymatic digestion.

13. Use according to claim 12, wherein the extract is obtained by digesting Sichuan berries in an aqueous solvent, an alcoholic solvent, a hydroalcoholic solvent, a glycol solvent or a lipid solvent or a mixture thereof.

14. A cosmetic or dermatological composition for use according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising a Sichuan berry extract obtained by digesting Sichuan berries of the Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum bungeanum species in a physiologically acceptable matrix.

15. Use of an extract of Sichuan berries of the species Zanthoxylum bungeanum or Zanthoxylum bungeanum for the preparation of a composition for cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

16. Use according to claims 1 to 11, wherein the treatment is a holistic treatment combining olfactory, aesthetic, sensory and emotional effects.

17. The use according to claim 16, wherein: - the olfactory effect is an anti-odour effect; - the beautifying effect is an anti-aging and / or moisturizing effect and / or a reduction in the shiny appearance of the skin; - the sensory effect is a soothing effect; and - The emotional effect is a happiness effect.

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