Stable skin care compositions comprising retinoids
By using a preservative system of hydroxyacetophenone, carnosine, sodium sulfite and water in skin care products, combined with the retinoid form of retinol propionate, the problems of retinoid stability and formaldehyde release agent are solved, and the long-term stability and safety of skin care products are achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202380068394.1
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-09-28
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
AI Technical Summary
The stability of existing skin care products containing retinoids is difficult to guarantee and is susceptible to oxidation, exposure, heat and other components interactions, resulting in reduced efficacy and adverse odors. Meanwhile, traditional preservatives such as DMDM hydantoin are formaldehyde release agents, and consumers and regulators prefer to use formaldehyde-free products.
The preservative system consisting of hydroxyacetophenone, carnosine, sodium sulfite and water is used, combined with retinol propionate as the retinoid form, ensuring that the composition remains stable without DMDM hydantoin and other formaldehyde release agents.
It achieves long-term stability of retinoids, avoids the production of adverse odors, and meets the needs of formaldehyde-free release agents, ensuring the effectiveness and safety of skin care products.
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Figure CN119923245A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention generally relates to stable skin care compositions comprising a retinoid. More specifically, the present invention relates to skin care compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a stable retinoid. Background Art
[0002] Skin care products improve the health and / or appearance of the user's skin. Currently, there are a variety of topical skin care products that are directed to delaying, minimizing, or even eliminating wrinkles and other histological changes in the skin that are typically associated with skin aging and / or environmental damage to human skin. For at least some people, fine lines, wrinkles, and discoloration on the skin are reminders of lost youth. Therefore, in today's youth-conscious society, eliminating wrinkles and discoloration has become a rapidly growing industry. Treatments range from cosmetic moisturizers and creams to various forms of cosmetic surgery.
[0003] Many skin care products, including moisturizers and creams, may include vitamins, vitamin derivatives, and / or other active ingredients for improving the appearance of the skin. For example, vitamin A (also known as retinol) is known for providing skin health and / or appearance benefits using topical skin care compositions. Vitamin A, together with its derivatives, forms a class of compounds commonly referred to as "retinoids." Once, retinoids were primarily used to treat acne. Recently, retinoids have also been used to treat photoaged and / or intrinsically aged skin.
[0004] However, formulating a stable skin care product containing retinoids with a three-year shelf life can be challenging because retinoids are undesirably reactive and susceptible to degradation. Some known sources of degradation include oxidation, exposure to light (e.g., ultraviolet radiation), heat (e.g., temperatures of 40° C. or higher), and interactions with other ingredients in the formulation. As retinoids degrade, the efficacy of the retinoids decreases, and the composition may yellow and the composition may have a significant odor, reminiscent of yogurt.
[0005] In addition, there is pressure to reformulate certain retinoid products as some consumers desire skin care products with cleaner ingredient lists, including formulations without formaldehyde-releasing agents. For example, DMDM hydantoin (available as Commercially available (commercially available) is a common and effective preservative for skin care products, including stable retinoid products. However, since it is a formaldehyde releaser, it is desirable to remove it from skin care products. However, it is difficult to identify a preservative system that is both effective and does not affect the stability of retinoids.
[0006] It would therefore be desirable to provide a retinoid-containing skin care composition having a preservative system free of formaldehyde releasers, wherein the color and retinoid concentration are stable. Summary of the invention
[0007] A skin care composition comprising: (a) a continuous phase comprising: (i) a preservative system comprising hydroxyacetophenone; (ii) carnosine; (iii) sodium sulfite; (iv) water; (b) a dispersed phase comprising retinol propionate; wherein the composition is free of DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxy and glycine methyl ester.
[0008] A skin care composition comprising: (a) a continuous phase comprising: (i) from about 0.1% to about 1% of a preservative system comprising one or more cell wall disruptors; (ii) from about 0.01% to about 1% of one or more antioxidants; (iii) from about 0.02% to about 0.25% of one or more reducing agents; (iv) water; (b) a dispersed phase comprising from about 0.01% to about 2% of one or more retinoids; wherein the skin care composition is free of formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing agents. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0009] The patent or application file contains at least one drawing executed in color. Copies of this patent or patent application publication with color drawing will be provided by the Office upon request and payment of the necessary fee.
[0010] While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the subject matter of the invention, it is believed the invention will be more readily understood from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:
[0011] Figure 1 Shown are the % retinyl propionate (RP) remaining versus time for Examples A through G;
[0012] Figure 2A is a photograph of Example 2 having 54% RP remaining and a b-value of 16.32 after storage under accelerated stability conditions;
[0013] Figure 2B Example 4 is shown, which has 63% RP remaining after storage under accelerated stability conditions and a b-value of 17.04;
[0014] Figure 3A The %RP remaining for Example 1, Example 2 and Example 3 are shown.
[0015] Figure 3B The yellow discoloration determined by the b-values of Example 1, Example 2, and Example 3 is shown;
[0016] Figure 4A shows Cream Example 5 after storage under accelerated stability conditions; and
[0017] Figure 4B Cream Example 6 is shown after storage under accelerated stability conditions. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0018] Retinoids are compounds derived from vitamin A that are often incorporated into skin care compositions to obtain anti-wrinkle, anti-acne and anti-hyperpigmentation benefits. Formulating with retinoids is challenging because they have a high tendency to degrade. Retinoids are sensitive to oxidation, hydrolysis, heat and UV. As retinoids degrade, there are fewer active substances available to penetrate the skin, and skin care products become less effective. In addition, the formula may be significantly yellower (as measured by the b-value in the color test method described below) and may have an unpleasant smell that reminds people of yogurt.
[0019] DMDM hydantoin (can be used as commercially available) as well as DMDM hydantoin and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (available as Plus Liquid) is a common preservative in skin care products and can be used as a preservative in stable retinoid formulations. However, DMDM hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser, and some consumers and regulatory agencies prefer products that do not contain formaldehyde releasers.
[0020] However, identifying alternative preservatives that are effective in inhibiting microbial growth but do not interact with retinoids is difficult. Figure 1 The % retinyl propionate (RP) remaining versus time for Examples A to G (see Table 2 below) including coated tablet 1 (see Table 1 below) or coated tablet 2 with various preservative systems added is shown. The % RP remaining was determined by the HPLC test method described herein. The examples were stored in a container (e.g., aluminum tube, laminate tube, glass jar, HDPE tank, PP tank, HDPE pump) that restricted the free flow of oxygen under ambient conditions away from direct light for three years.
[0021] Table 1: Pieces 1 and 2
[0022]
[0023]
[0024] Table 2
[0025]
[0026] Figure 1 Example D is shown, which has a DMDM hydantoin and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate ( The preservative system of DMDM Hydantoin Plus Liquid is known to be effective in inhibiting microorganisms and has the least amount of degradation of retinol propionate at the end of the three-year period compared to other compositions tested. Current retinoid products with this preservative system can have a shelf life of three years. However, some consumers prefer products without this preservative system because DMDM hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser.
[0027] Figure 1 It was shown that none of the other preservative systems shown in Examples A to C and E to F had sufficient RP remaining after three years to maintain shelf stability at three years and were therefore not satisfactory. In fact, many of these formulations had less than 20% RP remaining at three years. Since the preservative systems in these examples did not contain formaldehyde releasers and were effective antimicrobial agents, additional studies were conducted to determine if the RP could be stabilized by another means. Hydroxyacetophenone (which can be used as H from Commercially available) is a good starting point for further exploration.
[0028] Table 3 below shows the % RP remaining of the experimental skin care composition of Example 2 with added antioxidants compared to Example 2 without antioxidants (see Table 5 below for the formulation of the skin care composition comprising RP and a preservative system comprising 0.05% phenoxyethanol and 0.15% hydroxyacetophenone). The test was conducted under accelerated stability conditions of 40°C and 75% relative humidity away from direct light for 6 months, and the samples were stored in containers that restricted the free flow of oxygen. The RP% can be determined by the HPLC method described below.
[0029] Table 3
[0030]
[0031]
[0032] Although several antioxidants performed well and improved RP stability, carnosine was ultimately chosen to move forward because it is a dipeptide and may be preferred by consumers for skin care compositions compared to the other antioxidants tested.
[0033] It is known that skin care compositions turn yellow when retinoids degrade. This color change may be easily visible to consumers, and many consumers believe that yellowing means the retinoid is less effective. Surprisingly, it was found that even though RP is relatively stable with carnosine, the product still turns yellow under accelerated stability conditions (40°C, 75% RH, 6 months). Figure 2AExample 2 (see Table 5 below) is shown to have 54% RP remaining and a b-value of 16.32 under accelerated stability conditions (40°C, 75% RH, 6 months). Figure 2B An example with Example 2 (see Table 5 below) and 0.1% carnosine is shown. Figure 2B The example in has 63% RP remaining and a b-value of 17.04 under accelerated stability conditions (40°C, 75% RH, 6 months). Surprisingly, the formulation with a more stable RP has a higher b-value and is more yellow. This yellowing is unacceptable to consumers because consumers believe that a yellower product is less effective and / or adulterated.
[0034] Therefore, additional ingredients need to be tested to reduce yellowing. Table 4 below compares the b-values of Example 2 (see Table 5 below) with additional ingredients compared to Example 2. The test was conducted under accelerated stability conditions at 60°C away from direct light for two weeks, and the samples were stored in containers that restricted the free flow of oxygen. The b-values observed by a human observer with the naked eye (except for standard corrective lenses or other vision correction suitable for correcting myopia, hyperopia or astigmatism) were significantly less yellow relative to the control examples under illumination at least equivalent to the illumination of a standard 100-watt incandescent lamp at 30 cm. The b-values were determined by the color test method described below.
[0035] As shown in Table 4, sodium sulfite as a reducing agent was the only tested ingredient that significantly reduced the b-value of the composition, and the compositions with 0.05% sodium sulfite and 0.1% sodium sulfite were significantly less yellow.
[0036] Table 4
[0037]
[0038] Figure 3A and Figure 3B The stability and color change of Example 1, Example 2 and Example 3 under accelerated stability conditions at 60°C for two weeks are shown as shown in Table 5 below. Example 1 is similar to the currently available retinoid formulations, which have a retinoid formulation containing DMDM hydantoin and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (available as In Example 2, the DMDM hydantoin and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate preservatives were replaced with a preservative system containing hydroxyacetophenone and phenoxyethanol. Example 3 has a preservative system (hydroxyacetophenone and phenoxyethanol), 0.1% carnosine and 0.05% sodium sulfite. Figure 3A It is shown that the %RP remaining of Example 3 is higher than that of Example 1 and Example 2. Figure 3BIt is shown that Example 3 has a lower b value and therefore less yellowing than Example 1 and Example 2. Therefore, Example 3 may be more physically and chemically stable and may be preferred by consumers compared to formulations such as Example 1 and Example 2.
[0039] Figure 4A and Figure 4B The performance of a cream formulation containing a retinoid after two weeks under accelerated stability conditions at 60°C, where the samples were stored away from direct light in a container that restricted the free flow of oxygen, is shown. The cream is believed to perform similarly to a moisturizer in terms of physical and chemical stability of the retinoid. Example 5 (see Table 6) has a preservative system including hydroxyacetophenone and phenoxyethanol, and Example 6 has the same preservative system as Example 5 and also includes 0.1% carnosine and 0.05% sodium sulfite. With a b value of 14.86 Figure 4A Compared with the cream composition in Figure 4B The composition in is significantly whiter. Therefore, Example 6 may be preferred by consumers.
[0040] definition
[0041] As used herein, "formulated to be free of" means that the ingredient is not intentionally added. However, "formulated to be free of" does not guarantee "100% free of" because trace amounts of contaminants are possible.
[0042] As used herein, "skin care" means regulating and / or improving the condition of the skin. Some non-limiting examples include improving the appearance and / or feel of the skin by providing a smoother, more even appearance and / or feel; increasing the thickness of one or more layers of the skin; improving the elasticity or resilience of the skin; improving the firmness of the skin; and reducing the oily, shiny, and / or dull appearance of the skin, improving the hydration or moisturization of the skin, improving the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles, improving flaking or scaling of the skin, plumping the skin, improving skin barrier properties, improving skin tone, reducing the appearance of redness or skin rashes, and / or improving the brightness, radiance, or translucency of the skin; preventing skin damage, including damage caused by UV A and UV B, preventing comedones, balancing the skin microbiome, or preventing acne by antioxidant methods.
[0043] As used herein, "skin care active" means a compound or combination of compounds that, when applied to the skin, provides acute and / or chronic beneficial effects to the skin or cell types normally present therein. Skin care actives can modulate and / or improve the skin or its associated cells (e.g., improving skin elasticity, hydration, skin barrier function, and / or improving cell metabolism). In some examples, the skin care active comprises one or more retinoids.
[0044] As used herein, "skin care composition" means a composition that contains skin care actives and that regulates and / or improves the condition of the skin.
[0045] Unless otherwise specifically stated, all percentages are by weight of the cosmetic composition. Unless otherwise specifically stated, all ratios are weight ratios. All ranges are inclusive and combinable. The number of significant figures indicates neither a limitation on the amount shown nor a limitation on the accuracy of the measurement. All numerical values should be understood to be modified by the word "about", unless otherwise specifically stated. Unless otherwise specified, all measurements are understood to be made at approximately 21°C and ambient conditions, where "ambient conditions" means conditions at about 1 atmosphere and about 50% relative humidity. Unless otherwise specified, all weights associated with the listed ingredients are based on active material levels and do not include carriers or by-products that may be contained in commercially available materials. All numerical ranges are narrower ranges including the end values; the upper and lower limits of the ranges described are interchangeable to further form ranges that are not explicitly described.
[0046] The compositions of the present invention may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of the essential components and optional ingredients described herein. As used herein, "consisting essentially of" means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients as long as the additional ingredients do not materially change the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed composition or method.
[0047] Composition
[0048] The skin care composition can be a uniform emulsion including a continuous phase and a dispersed phase. The continuous phase can include a dermatologically acceptable carrier, which can typically include water, a polymeric thickener, an antioxidant, and a preservative system. The dispersed phase can include oils, including silicone oils and retinoids.
[0049] Dermatologically acceptable carriers enable other components (e.g., active substances) to be delivered to the skin at appropriate concentrations. Therefore, carriers can serve as diluents, dispersants, solvents, etc. for particulate materials, which help ensure that it can be applied to a selected target at an appropriate concentration and evenly distributed on the selected target. Carriers can include one or more dermatologically acceptable solid, semisolid or liquid fillers, diluents, solvents, extenders, etc. Carriers can be solid, semisolid or liquid. In some cases, carriers can be inert or can provide their own beneficial effects to keratinous tissue. The concentration of carriers can vary with the expected concentration of selected carriers and composition components.
[0050] The type of carrier used in the skin care composition of the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition. The topical compositions that can be used for the subject invention can be made into various product forms such as those known in the art. These forms include, but are not limited to, emulsions, creams, gels, sticks, sprays, ointments, pastes, mousses, and cosmetics (e.g., solid, semi-solid, or liquid cosmetics, including foundations, eye makeup, colored or colorless lip care products such as lipsticks, etc.). These product forms can contain several types of carriers, including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels, solids, and liposomes.
[0051] The skin care composition may be free of or formulated to be free of formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers. The skin care composition may be free of DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxy, glycine methyl ester, and combinations thereof. The skin care composition may also be free of parabens and / or sulfate-based surfactants (including SLS and SLES).
[0052] The composition can have a b value of less than 25, less than 20, less than 18, less than 14, alternatively less than 13, alternatively less than 12, alternatively less than 11, and alternatively less than or equal to 10, according to the test method described below.
[0053] Continuous phase / aqueous phase
[0054] Preservative system
[0055] As used herein, a preservative system can be one or more substances and / or chemicals added to a cosmetic composition that can prevent decomposition caused by microbial growth and / or by undesirable chemical changes. The preservative system may be free of formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers. In some examples, the preservative system may include one or more ingredients that are registered as preservatives by the European Chemicals Agency (European Chemicals Agency) (hereinafter referred to as ECA) on September 27, 2022. In other examples, the preservative system may include one or more ingredients that are not registered as preservatives by ECA. Alternatively, the preservative system may be free of ingredients registered as preservatives by ECA.
[0056] The composition may comprise from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, alternatively from about 0.05% to about 1.25%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 1%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 0.8%, and alternatively from about 0.3% to about 0.5% of the preservative system.
[0057] The preservative system may include one or more cell wall disruptors that can inhibit microbial growth by disrupting the microbial cell wall. Non-limiting examples of cell wall disruptors may include aromatic alcohols, medium chain glycols, organic acids, hydroxyacetophenones, 1,2-hexanediol (and) caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerol, methylheptylglycerol, or combinations thereof.
[0058] Non-limiting examples of aromatic alcohols may include phenoxyethanol, tryptophan, tyrosol, phenylethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, or combinations thereof.
[0059] Non-limiting examples of medium chain glycols may include caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or combinations thereof.
[0060] Non-limiting examples of organic acids may include benzoic acid, sorbic acid, levulinic acid, and salicylic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0061] Chelating agents
[0062] The cosmetic composition may include from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, and alternatively from about 0.1% to about 0.3% of a chelating agent. As used herein, "chelating agent" means an active agent that can remove metal ions from a system by forming a complex so that the metal ions cannot easily participate in or catalyze a chemical reaction. In addition, chelating agents can be used in combination with the preservative system described herein to improve the efficacy of the preservative. Non-limiting examples of chelating agents can include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (disodium edetate, tetrasodium edetate), tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine, etidronic acid, sodium phytate, sodium phytate, oxalic acid and derivatives, sodium gluconate, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (trisodium edetate), or a combination thereof.
[0063] Antioxidants
[0064] The cosmetic composition may comprise from about 0.001% to about 1%, alternatively from about 0.005% to about 0.85%, alternatively from about 0.01% to about 0.75%, alternatively from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, and alternatively from about 0.1% to about 0.3% of an antioxidant.
[0065] The antioxidant may be a non-vitamin antioxidant. Non-limiting examples of antioxidants may include hydroxycinnamic acid, ferulic acid, bakuchiol, tea extracts (including tea leaf extract (white tea) and green tea leaf extract), caffeine, rosemary leaf extract, octadecanol di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, carnosine, ethylenebis(oxyethylene)bis-(3-(5-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-m-tolyl) propionate), pomegranate fruit extract, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), L-ergothioneine (which may be used as THIOTANE TMtetrahydrocurcumin, cetylpyridinium chloride, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (available as OXYNEX TM ARLATONE from Uniqema TM Dioic DCA), ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), yeast extract or yeast culture medium (e.g. ) or a combination thereof.
[0066] The antioxidant may be a vitamin antioxidant. Non-limiting examples of vitamin antioxidants may include vitamin C, vitamin B (including niacinamide), vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin K, or a combination thereof.
[0067] reducing agent
[0068] One or more reducing agents may be added to the composition to help reduce yellowing.The composition may comprise from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, alternatively from about 0.02% to about 0.2%, and alternatively from about 0.05% to about 0.1% of a reducing agent.
[0069] Non-limiting examples of reducing agents can include sulfites, acetylfarnesylcysteine, aminoethanesulfinic acid, butyrolactone thiol, dithiodiethylacetate ethanolamine salt, ethyl thioglycolate, formamidine sulfinic acid, hydrolyzed yeast / lactobacillus / ubiquinone enzyme, sodium glyoxylate, sodium hydroxymethane sulfonate, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, sodium thioglycolate, sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate, sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate, potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium metabisulfite, or a combination thereof.
[0070] Non-limiting examples of sulfites include sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium bisulfite, ammonium sulfite, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium dithionite, sodium metabisulfite, or combinations thereof.
[0071] Dermatologically acceptable carrier
[0072] The compositions herein include a dermatologically acceptable carrier (which may be referred to as a "carrier"). The phrase "dermatologically acceptable carrier" means that the carrier is suitable for topical application to keratinous tissue, has good aesthetic properties, is compatible with the active substances in the composition, and does not raise any unreasonable safety or toxicity concerns. In one embodiment, the carrier is present at a level of about 50% to about 99%, about 60% to about 98%, about 70% to about 98%, or alternatively about 80% to about 95% by weight of the composition.
[0073] The carrier can be in various forms. In some cases, the solubility or dispersibility of the components (e.g., extracts, sunscreen active substances, additional components) can determine the form and characteristics of the carrier. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (e.g., aqueous or anhydrous), dispersions, emulsions, and solid forms (e.g., gels, bars, flowable solids, or amorphous materials). In some cases, the dermatologically acceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion having a continuous aqueous phase (e.g., oil-in-water or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion). The oil phase of the emulsion may include silicone oil, non-silicone oil (such as hydrocarbon oil, ester, ether), and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may include water and water-soluble ingredients (e.g., water-soluble moisturizers, conditioners, antimicrobial agents, wetting agents, and / or other skin care active substances). In some cases, the aqueous phase may include components that are not water, including, but not limited to, water-soluble moisturizers, conditioners, antimicrobial agents, wetting agents, and / or other water-soluble skin care active substances. In some cases, the non-aqueous components of the composition include humectants, such as glycerol and / or other polyols. The composition may contain from about 1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 3% to about 10%, alternatively from about 4% to about 9%, and alternatively from about 5% to about 8% of a humectant.
[0074] In some cases, the compositions herein are in the form of oil-in-water ("O / W") emulsions that provide a light and non-greasy sensory feel. Suitable O / W emulsions herein may comprise a continuous aqueous phase greater than 50% by weight of the composition, and the remainder being a dispersed oil phase. The aqueous phase may comprise from 1% to 99% water, based on the weight of the aqueous phase, and any water-soluble and / or water-miscible ingredients. In these cases, the dispersed oil phase will typically be present at less than 40% (e.g., 1% to 35%, 2% to 30%, 3% to 25%, 4% to 20%, or even 5% to 18%) by weight of the composition to help avoid some of the undesirable sensory effects of oily compositions. The oil phase may include one or more volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils (e.g., vegetable oils, silicone oils, and / or hydrocarbon oils). Some non-limiting examples of oils that may be suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 9,446,265 and U.S. Publication No. 2015 / 0196464.
[0075] The carrier may include one or more dermatologically acceptable diluents. As used herein, "diluent" refers to a material into which the skin care actives herein can be dispersed, dissolved or otherwise incorporated. Some non-limiting examples of hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (e.g., C1-C4) and low molecular weight diols and polyols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g., molecular weight of 200 g / mol to 600 g / mol), polypropylene glycol (e.g., Mw of 425 g / mol to 2025 g / mol), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitan esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, sorbitan esters, butylene glycol, ether propanols, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers, and combinations thereof.
[0076] Thickener
[0077] The composition may include one or more thickeners, alternatively at least two thickeners. In some examples, the composition is a moisturizer and may include about 0.5% to about 6%, alternatively about 0.75% to about 5%, and alternatively about 1% to about 4% thickener. In other examples, the composition is a cream and may include about 0.1% to about 4%, alternatively about 0.25% to about 3%, alternatively about 0.5% to about 2% thickener. Suitable thickener classes include, but are not limited to, carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, sulfonated polymers, copolymers thereof, hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] The composition may include a carboxylic acid polymer thickener, such as a carbomer. The composition may include from about 0.1% to about 1%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 0.8%, alternatively from about 0.25% to about 0.7%, alternatively from about 0.3% to about 0.6%, and alternatively from about 0.4% to about 0.5% of a carboxylic acid polymer thickener.
[0079] The composition may include polyacrylamide polymers and copolymer thickeners. The composition may include from about 0.8% to about 3%, alternatively from about 0.9% to about 2.5%, alternatively from about 1% to about 2.2%, alternatively from about 1.1% to about 2.1%, alternatively from about 1.2% to about 1.9%, or alternatively from about 1.3% to about 1.8% of polyacrylamide polymers and copolymer thickeners.
[0080] Suitable thickening agents include carboxylic acid polymers such as carbomers (e.g., 900 series, such as 954), and Ultrez 10 and Ultrez 30. Other suitable carboxylic acid polymerization agents include acrylic acid C 10-30 A copolymer of an alkyl ester and one or more monomers, the monomer being acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or a short chain thereof (i.e., C1-4 A short chain ester of an acrylate / acrylic acid C 10-30 Alkyl ester cross-linked polymer, and with 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21, PEMULEN TR-1 and PEMULEN TR-2 are commercially available from Noveon.
[0081] Other suitable thickeners include polyacrylamide polymers and copolymers. An exemplary polyacrylamide polymer has the CTFA designation "polyacrylamide, and isoparaffin, and laureth-7" and is available under the trade name SEPIGEL 305 from Polyacrylamide is commercially available from Lipo Chemicals, Inc. (Fairfield, NJ). Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-block copolymers of acrylamide and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid. Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include HYPAN SR1 50H, SS500V, SS500 W, SSSA100H from Lipo Chemicals, Inc. (Patterson, NJ).
[0082] Other suitable thickeners for use herein are sulfonated polymers such as the CTFA named sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, which is available under the trade name Simulgel 800 from Company and trade name 100P was purchased from Lamberti SpA (Gallarate, Italy). Another commercially available material comprising a sulfonated polymer is available from Sepiplus TM 400.
[0083] In addition, suitable thickeners may include superabsorbent polymers. These superabsorbent polymers may be selected from: cross-linked sodium polyacrylates, such as, for example, Those sold under the names Octacare X100, X110 and RM100, by SNF TM Those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500, by Those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1100 are marketed by Grain Those sold by the company under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer), or Aqua by Sumitomo Seika 10SH NF, Aqua 10 SH NFC, sodium acrylate crosspolymer-2; starch grafted with acrylic acid polymer (homopolymer or copolymer), especially sodium polyacrylate, such as those produced by SanyoChemical those sold under the names Sanfresh ST-100C, ST100MC and IM-300MC by the company, Makimousse 12 and Makimouse 25 supplied by Kobo Products (INCI name: sodium polyacrylate starch); hydrolyzed starch grafted with acrylic acid polymers (homopolymers or copolymers), in particular acrylic acid acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymers, such as those supplied by Grain Those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200 and D-223 (INCi name: Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer). Preferred superabsorbent polymers may include Makimousse 12 and Makimousse 25.
[0084] Thickeners suitable for use herein include gums. "Gum" is a term broadly defined in the art. Gums include gum arabic, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, pullulan, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, silica hydrate, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar gum, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, their derivatives and their mixtures.
[0085] Natural gums are polysaccharides of natural origin that can cause a large viscosity increase in solution even at low concentrations. They can be used as thickeners, gelling agents, emulsifiers and stabilizers. These gums are most commonly found in the woody elements of plants or in seed coatings. Natural gums can be classified according to their origin. They can be classified as uncharged polymers or ionic polymers (polyelectrolytes), examples of which include the following substances. Natural gums obtained from seaweed, such as: agar; alginic acid; sodium alginate; and carrageenan. Natural gums obtained from non-marine plant resources include: gum arabic, from the sap of the Acacia tree; gum ghatti, from the sap of the Anogeissus tree; gum tragacanth, from the sap of the Astragalus shrub; gum karaya, from the sap of the Sterculia tree. Examples of uncharged gums include: guar gum, from guar beans; locust bean gum, from the seeds of the carob tree; beta-glucan, from oat or barley bran; chicle, an older base for chewing gum obtained from the chicle tree; dammargum, from the sap of a tree in the Dipterocarpaceae family; glucomannan, from the konjac plant; mastic gum, a chewing gum from ancient Greece obtained from the mastic tree; psyllium husk, from the Plantago plant; spruce gum, an Indiana, U.S. chewing gum obtained from spruce trees; tara gum, from the seeds of the tara tree. Natural gums produced by bacterial fermentation include gellan gum and xanthan gum.
[0086] Dispersed phase / oil phase
[0087] Retinoids
[0088] The skin care compositions herein contain a safe and effective amount of a retinoid. As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and / or synthetic vitamin A or retinol analogs or retinol-like compounds that have the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. For example, a retinoid can be a retinol ester (e.g., a C2-C 22Retinol, retinoic acid ... Other suitable retinoids are tocopheryl retinoate (tocopheryl ester of retinoic acid (trans- or cis-), adapalene {6-[3-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoic acid} and tazarotene (6-[2-(4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl)ethynyl]-nicotinate ethyl ester). The retinoid may be included as the pure or substantially pure material or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation means from a natural (e.g., plant) source.
[0089] The compositions of the invention may include 0.0001% to 2% (eg, 0.005% to 2%, 0.01% to 1%, 0.01% to 0.5%, 0.1% to 0.4%, 0.15% to 0.3%) of a retinoid. In some cases, a mixture of more than one retinoid may be used.
[0090] The retinoids present in the skin care compositions herein are stable. In order for the skin care compositions to provide the desired health or appearance benefits, it is important to provide the appropriate amount of the retinoid active.
[0091] The composition may have ≥70% RP remaining, alternatively ≥65% RP remaining, alternatively ≥60% RP remaining, alternatively ≥55% RP remaining, alternatively ≥50% RP remaining at any time during the shelf life of the product. The % RP remaining is determined using the HPLC test method described below. The initial RP is the RP concentration at the time of manufacture, which may be determined on the product packaging or other materials (e.g., website, etc.) on the RP% required.
[0092] Silicone oil
[0093] The composition may include a silicone oil selected from the group consisting of volatile silicone oils, non-volatile silicone oils, and combinations thereof. The silicone oil may be in a dispersed phase. The composition may include from about 1% to about 35% silicone oil, alternatively from about 5% to about 30% silicone oil, and alternatively from about 10% to about 28% silicone oil.
[0094] Volatile silicone oil
[0095] Suitable volatile silicones may include cyclic and linear volatile silicones. A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd et al., "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries.
[0096] 27-32 (1976). Suitable cyclic volatile silicones include cyclic dimethylsiloxane chains containing an average of about 3 to about 5 silicon atoms, preferably about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms. Exemplary cyclic volatile silicones of different viscosities include Dow Corning DC 244, DC 245, DC 344 and DC 345; GE Silicones-OSi Specialties VolatileSilicone 7207 and Volatile Silicone 7158; and GE Silicones SF1 202. Suitable volatile linear silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes containing an average of about 2 to about 8 silicon atoms. Exemplary linear volatile silicones include Dow Corning DC 200 series with viscosities of 0.65 cst, 1.0 cst and 2.0 cst. In certain embodiments, the linear volatile silicones generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to about 4 centistokes at 25°C, and the cyclic materials generally have a viscosity of less than about 6 centistokes at 25°C.
[0097] Non-volatile silicone oil
[0098] Suitable non-volatile silicone oils include polysiloxanes. The non-volatile polysiloxanes may have a viscosity of about 10 centistokes to about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25°C. Such polysiloxanes may be represented by the following general chemical formula:
[0099] R3SiO[R2SiO] x SiR3
[0100] wherein each R is independently selected from hydrogen or C1-30 straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl or aryl, trialkylsiloxy; and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000. In certain embodiments, R is methyl or ethyl. Commercially available polysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxane, also known as polydimethylsiloxane, examples of which include the DM-Fluid series from Shin-Etsu, the DM-Fluid series sold by Momentive Performance Materials, and the DM-Fluid series sold by Momentive Performance Materials. series and Dow Corning, Inc. 200 series. Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow 200 fluid (also PMX-200 Silicone Fluids). Suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include those represented by the following formula:
[0101] R3SiO[R2SiO] x [RR'SiO] y SiR3
[0102] wherein R and R' are each independently hydrogen or C1-30 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl or trialkylsiloxy; and x and y are each an integer from 1 to 1,000,000. Examples include alkyl dimethicone wherein at least R' is a fatty alkyl group (e.g., C12-22). A suitable alkyl dimethicone is cetyl dimethicone wherein R' is C16 linear and R is methyl, commercially available from Dow Corning as 2502 Cosmetic Fluid.
[0103] Preferred non-volatile oils include polydimethylsiloxane (polydimethylsiloxane), preferably with a viscosity between 10 cst and 1000 cst, more preferably between 15 cst and 400 cst, and most preferably between 20 cst and 200 cst. The average chain length of these preferred polydimethylsiloxane materials is from about 12 to about 375 dimethylsiloxane units, more preferably from about 20 to about 200 dimethylsiloxane units, and most preferably has an average chain length of from about 27 to about 125 dimethylsiloxane units. In one embodiment, the second composition will include at least one non-volatile silicone oil. In one such embodiment, at least about 70% of the weight of the non-volatile oil is non-volatile silicone oil. In another embodiment, at least about 80% of the weight of the non-volatile oil is non-volatile silicone. In yet another embodiment, at least about 90% of the weight of the non-volatile oil is non-volatile silicone oil.
[0104] Other optional ingredients
[0105] The compositions of the present invention may optionally contain one or more additional ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions (e.g., colorants, skin care actives, anti-inflammatory agents, sunscreens, emulsifiers, buffers, rheology modifiers, combinations of these, etc.), provided that the additional ingredients do not adversely alter the skin health or appearance benefits provided by the compositions of the present invention. When incorporated into the composition, the additional ingredients should be suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, etc. Other optional ingredients may be present in the continuous phase and / or the dispersed phase. Some non-limiting examples of additional active substances include vitamins, minerals, peptides and peptide derivatives, sugar amines, sunscreens, oil control agents, particles, flavonoid compounds, hair growth regulators, antioxidants and / or antioxidant precursors, preservatives, protease inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, anti-inflammatory agents, moisturizers, exfoliants, skin lighteners, sunless tanning agents, lubricants, anti-acne active substances, anti-cellulitis active substances, chelating agents, anti-wrinkle active substances, anti-atrophy active substances, phytosterols and / or plant hormones, N-acyl amino acid compounds, antimicrobial agents and antifungal agents. In some examples, the composition may include fragrances (particularly natural fragrances), or colorants (particularly natural colorants). Other non-limiting examples of additional ingredients and / or skin care actives that may be suitable for use herein are described in U.S. Patent Publication Nos. 2002 / 0022040, 2003 / 0049212, 2004 / 0175347, 2006 / 0275237, 2007 / 0196344, 2008 / 0181956, 2008 / 0206373, 2010 / 00092408, 2008 / 0206373, 2010 / 0239510, 2010 / 0189669, 2010 / 0272667, 2011 / 0262025, 2011 / 0097286, US2012 / 0197016, 2012 / 0128683, 2012 / 0148515, 2012 / 0156146 and 2013 / 0022557, and U.S. Patent Nos. 5,939,082, 5,872,112, 6,492,326, 6,696,049, 6,524,598, 5,972,359 and 6,174,533.
[0106] When optional ingredients are included in the compositions herein, it may be desirable to select ingredients that do not form complexes or otherwise interact undesirably with other ingredients in the composition, especially pH-sensitive ingredients such as niacinamide, salicylates, and peptides. When present, the optional ingredients may be included in an amount of 0.0001% to 50%; 0.001% to 20%; or even 0.01% to 10% (e.g., 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, 1%, 0.5% or 0.1%) by weight of the composition.
[0107] How to use
[0108] Skin care composition can be applied to face, neck and / or their part or combination at least once a day, twice a day or on a more frequent basis every day during the treatment cycle. When applied twice a day, the first time and the second time are applied at least 1 to 12 hours apart. Usually, the composition is applied in the morning and / or before going to bed at night. The treatment cycle herein is ideally the time when retinoids and / or other skin care active substances are enough to improve the appearance of the skin. The treatment period can last at least 1 week (for example, about 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks or even 12 weeks). In some cases, the treatment period will extend for multiple months (i.e. 3 months to 12 months). In some cases, the composition can be applied at most times in a week (for example, at least 4 days, 5 days or 6 days per week), at least once a day or even twice a day during the treatment period of at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks or 12 weeks.
[0109] The skin care composition can visibly improve fine lines and wrinkles, smoothness, brightness, firmness, dark spots and pores. The skin care composition can make the skin feel hydrated and revitalized. The skin care composition is applied at night. The skin care composition can even out the texture of the skin and minimize the appearance of pores.
[0110] Test Method
[0111] Color Testing Methods
[0112] For purposes of the present invention, colors are defined according to values on the CIELAB color system, which is based on the XYZ color system defined by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE system) to provide a way to objectively represent perceived colors and color differences. X, Y, and Z can be represented in a variety of ways or "scales," one of which is the Hunter scale. The Hunter scale has three variables, L, a, and b, which are mathematically related to X, Y, and Z and are described by Robertson, AR in "The CIE 1976 Color Difference Formulas," Color Research Applications, Vol. 2, pp. 7-11 (1977).
[0113] To measure the color of the composition of the present invention, approximately 8 mL of the product to be tested is transferred to a petri dish (35 mm×10 mm disposable petri dish) using a syringe. The petri dish is then placed on the black half of a standard opacity chart (N2A chart from Leneta Company (Manwah, NJ) or an equivalent chart, the upper half of which is black and the lower half is white). The color (L value, a value, and b value) of the product in the petri dish is then measured using an integrating sphere spectrophotometer, with the setting that excludes specular reflections selected. The value of "a" is related to the value along the red-green (horizontal) axis, and the value of "b" is related to the value along the blue-yellow (vertical) axis. For example, a yellow sample will have a positive b-value, while a green sample will have a negative a-value. A larger positive or negative value indicates a stronger color. The value of "L" is an indicator of brightness and / or darkness, and is related to the value along the z-axis, which is perpendicular to both the horizontal and vertical axes.
[0114] HPLC test method
[0115] This method provides a suitable means for determining the amount of RP loss in a composition.
[0116] A sufficient amount of the test composition is placed in a controlled environment room / room of the desired temperature and humidity and for the desired duration. When the accelerated aging is finished, the sample is taken out of the controlled environment, equilibrated to room temperature (21°C ± 2°C) for 24 hours, and then measured shortly thereafter for chemical analysis. It should be noted that retinoids are photosensitive and should not be exposed to direct light. All test compositions are thoroughly mixed before sampling.
[0117] The amount of RP loss on a % weight / weight basis is determined by HPLC (isocratic elution) as follows: Condition one or more HPLC columns according to conventional procedures.
[0118] Chromatographic conditions
[0119] 1. Chromatographic column: C18 (5 microns), 250mm×4.6mm
[0120] 2. Mobile phase (eluent): methanol / 2-propanol (70 / 30 volume / volume)
[0121] 3. Column temperature: about 25°C (ambient temperature)
[0122] 4.UV wavelength: 280nm
[0123] 5. Injection volume: 20 μl
[0124] 6. Flow rate: 1.0ml / min
[0125] 7. Running time: about 22.0 minutes
[0126] 8.RP retention time: 6 minutes
[0127] Mobile phase preparation
[0128] 1 L of mobile phase (eluent) was prepared by combining 700 mL of methanol with 300 mL of 2-propanol.
[0129] External standard preparation (prepared on the day of use)
[0130] In a 25 ml amber flask, dissolve 25 mg of retinol propionate in 10 ml of mobile phase. Avoid exposing the RP to light. Dilute to volume with mobile phase. Transfer a 5.0 ml aliquot to a 50 ml amber flask and dilute to volume with mobile phase. Mix well. Filter approximately 1 ml of external standard through a suitable 0.45 micron filter (e.g., Whatman GD / X) into an amber HPLC sample vial.
[0131] HPLC sample preparation
[0132] Using a 1cc tuberculin syringe, weigh 500mg sample composition and transfer it to a 25ml amber volumetric flask. Add 10mL mobile phase and vortex at high speed for 2 minutes or until the product is fully dispersed. Dilute to volume with mobile phase and mix thoroughly. Use a syringe filter (e.g., Whatman GD / X filter unit) to filter approximately 1ml into an autosampler vial. Use the conditions to perform 20 injections.
[0133] (A) / (B)×(B) / (W)×(DF)×100=retinol propionate, % weight / weight wherein,
[0134] A = Peak area of retinyl propionate in the sample
[0135] B = Peak area of retinyl propionate used for calibration
[0136] C = standard weight of retinol propionate, in mg
[0137] W = sample weight, mg
[0138] DF = dilution factor (e.g., 0.1)
[0139] Example
[0140] The following data and examples are provided to help illustrate the skin care compositions described herein. The exemplified compositions are given for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limitations of the present disclosure, as many variations are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the present disclosure. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts, percentages and ratios herein are by weight.
[0141] Tables 5 and 6 illustrate examples of skin care compositions prepared as follows: Add the water phase ingredients to a suitable mixing container and mix until homogeneous. Add the oil phase ingredients to a separate container and mix until homogeneous. Add the oil phase to the water phase and use The mixture is ground for 2 to 3 minutes with a grinder TK-25 or equivalent at 9000 to 11000 RPM. A propeller mixer is used instead of the grinder, and the remaining materials (e.g., pH adjusters, sensory / appearance modifiers such as starch and TiO2) and / or phases (if present) are added to the composition one at a time and mixing is continued until uniform. The batch is transferred to a final container.
[0142] Table 5: Examples 1 to 4
[0143]
[0144] 1 H, from
[0145] 2 Plus Liquid, from
[0146] 4 GLW75 PFAP-PE, from Products
[0147] 5 HTP, from
[0148] Table 6: Cream Examples 5 and 6
[0149] Example 5 (weight %) Example 6 (weight %) <![CDATA[ Water Phase ]]> USP water Moderate Moderate Disodium EDTA 0.050 0.050 Wetting agent 3.0 3.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.050 0.050 <![CDATA[Hydroxyacetophenone 1 > 0.15 0.15 <![CDATA[Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 3 > 0.90 0.90 Carnosine 0.10 Sodium sulfite 0.050 <![CDATA[ oil phase ]]> Silicone oil 14 14 Retinyl Propionate 0.30 0.30 PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone 2 0.30 0.30
[0150] 1 H, from
[0151] 2 KF-6011 from Shin-Etsu
[0152] 3 Sepimax Zen, from
[0153] The examples in Table 7 can be prepared according to the methods described herein.
[0154] Table 7: Examples 7 to 13
[0155]
[0156]
[0157]
[0158] 1 Octadecanol di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, from
[0159] 2 1,2-Hexanediol and Caprylyl Glycol, from
[0160] 3 Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, PEG-4 laurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, and polyethylene glycol, from
[0161] 4 Undecylenoylphenylalanine, from company
[0162] 5 Water and hydrolyzed ceratonia siliqua seed extract from
[0163] 6 Water, Glycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Lactic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol and Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7 from
[0164] 7Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate from B&T Sr1.
[0165] 8 Water, Glycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Benzyl Alcohol and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 from Sederma
[0166] 9 Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 from company
[0167] 10 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 60, from company
[0168] 11 Sodium polyacrylate starch, from Products
[0169] 12 Carbomer, from
[0170] 13 Acrylates c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer from
[0171] 14 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dow
[0172] 15 Retinol (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride from
[0173] 16 Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol, Dow
[0174] combination :
[0175] A. A skin care composition, comprising:
[0176] a. a continuous phase, the continuous phase comprising:
[0177] i. from about 0.01% to about 1.5% of a preservative system, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1% of a preservative system, and more preferably from about 0.15% to about 0.5% of a preservative system, wherein the preservative system comprises one or more cell wall disruptors;
[0178] ii. from about 0.01% to about 1% of one or more antioxidants, preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.75% of one or more antioxidants, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.3% of one or more antioxidants;
[0179] iii. from about 0.01% to about 0.5% of one or more reducing agents, preferably from about 0.02% to about 0.2% of one or more reducing agents, and more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.1% of one or more reducing agents;
[0180] iv. water;
[0181] b. a dispersed phase comprising from about 0.01% to about 1%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.4% of one or more retinoids; wherein the composition is free of DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxy and glycine methyl ester.
[0182] B. The skin care composition according to paragraph A, wherein the one or more retinoids include retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, or a combination thereof.
[0183] C. A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to B, wherein the cell wall disruptor is selected from aromatic alcohols, medium chain glycols, organic acids, hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol (and) caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, methylheptylglycerin or combinations thereof.
[0184] D. The skin care composition according to paragraphs A to C, wherein the cell wall disruptor comprises hydroxyacetophenone and an aromatic alcohol selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, tryptophan, tyrosol, phenylethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, or a combination thereof.
[0185] E. A skin care composition according to paragraph D, wherein the aromatic alcohol comprises phenoxyethanol.
[0186] F. A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to E, wherein the antioxidant comprises a non-vitamin antioxidant comprising hydroxycinnamic acid, ferulic acid, bakuchiol, tea extract, caffeine, rosemary leaf extract, octadecanol di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, carnosine, ethylenebis(oxyethylene)bis-(3-(5-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-m-tolyl)propionate), pomegranate fruit extract, butylated hydroxytoluene, L-ergothioneine, tetrahydrocurcumin, cetylpyridinium chloride, diethylhexyl eugenylmalonate, hexadec-8-ene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, ubiquinone, yeast extract, yeast culture fluid, or a combination thereof.
[0187] G. A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to F, wherein the antioxidant comprises carnosine.
[0188] H. A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to G, wherein the reducing agent comprises a sulfite, acetylfarnesylcysteine, aminoethanesulfinic acid, butyrolactone thiol, dithiodiacetic acid ethanolamine salt, ethyl thioglycolate, formamidine sulfinic acid, hydrolyzed yeast / lactobacillus / ubiquinone enzyme, sodium glyoxylate, sodium hydroxymethane sulfonate, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, sodium thioglycolate, sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate, sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate, potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium metabisulfite, or a combination thereof.
[0189] I. The skin care composition according to paragraphs A to H, wherein the reducing agent comprises a sulfite, and the sulfite comprises sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium bisulfite, ammonium sulfite, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium dithionite, sodium metabisulfite, or a combination thereof.
[0190] J. The skin care composition according to paragraphs A to I, further comprising one or more chelating agents, wherein the one or more chelating agents include disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, etidronic acid, sodium phytate, phytic acid, oxalic acid and derivatives, sodium gluconate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, or a combination thereof.
[0191] K. A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to J, wherein the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA.
[0192] L A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to K, wherein the composition has a b value of less than 25, preferably less than 20, and more preferably less than 15 according to the Color Test Method.
[0193] M. A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to L, wherein the composition comprises retinol propionate and the skin care composition comprises greater than or equal to 50% residual retinol propionate, preferably greater than or equal to 65% residual retinol propionate, and more preferably greater than or equal to 70% residual retinol propionate according to the HPLC test method compared to the amount of retinol propionate at the time of manufacture.
[0194] N. The skin care composition according to paragraphs A to M, wherein the skin care composition is free of formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers.
[0195] O. The skin care composition according to paragraphs A to N, wherein the skin care composition is free of parabens and sulfate-based surfactants.
[0196] P. A skin care composition according to paragraphs A to O, wherein the dispersed phase further comprises silicone.
[0197] Q. A skin care composition according to A to P, wherein the dispersed phase further comprises from about 1% to about 35% of silicone oil, preferably from about 5% to about 30% of silicone oil, and more preferably from about 10% to about 28% of silicone oil.
[0198] The dimensions and values disclosed herein should not be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values cited. Instead, unless otherwise indicated, each such dimension is intended to represent the stated value and a functionally equivalent range around that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm".
[0199] Unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited, each document cited herein, including any cross-referenced or related patent or patent application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or the benefit of, is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art to any of the present invention disclosed or claimed herein, or an admission that it, by itself or in combination with any one or more of the references, proposes, suggests, or discloses any such invention. In addition, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this invention conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this invention shall govern.
[0200] Although specific embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, it is intended that all such changes and modifications within the scope of the present invention be covered in the appended claims.
Claims
1. A skin care composition, comprising: a. a continuous phase, the continuous phase comprising: i. from about 0.01% to about 1.5% of a preservative system, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1% of a preservative system, and more preferably from about 0.15% to about 0.5% of a preservative system, wherein the preservative system comprises one or more cell wall disruptors; ii. from about 0.01% to about 1% of one or more antioxidants, preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.75% of one or more antioxidants, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.3% of one or more antioxidants; iii. from about 0.01% to about 0.5% of one or more reducing agents, preferably from about 0.02% to about 0.2% of one or more reducing agents, and more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.1% of one or more reducing agents; iv. water; b. a dispersed phase comprising from about 0.01% to about 1%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.4% of one or more retinoids; The composition is free of DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxy and glycine methyl ester.
2. The skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more retinoids are selected from retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate or mixtures thereof.
3. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the cell wall disrupting agent is selected from aromatic alcohols, medium chain glycols, organic acids, hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol (and) caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, methylheptylglycerin or mixtures thereof.
4. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the antioxidant comprises a non-vitamin antioxidant selected from the group consisting of hydroxycinnamic acid, ferulic acid, bakuchiol, tea extract, caffeine, rosemary leaf extract, octadecanol di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, carnosine, ethylenebis(oxyethylene)bis-(3-(5-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-m-tolyl)propionate), pomegranate fruit extract, butylated hydroxytoluene, L-ergothioneine, tetrahydrocurcumin, cetylpyridinium chloride, diethylhexyl eugenylmalonate, hexadec-8-ene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, ubiquinone, yeast extract, yeast culture fluid, or mixtures thereof.
5. The skin care composition of claim 4, wherein the antioxidant comprises carnosine.
6. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the reducing agent is selected from sulfites, acetylfarnesylcysteine, aminoethanesulfinic acid, butyrolactone thiol, dithiodiacetic acid ethanolamine salt, ethyl thioglycolate, formamidine sulfinic acid, hydrolyzed yeast / lactobacillus / ubiquinone enzyme, sodium glyoxylate, sodium hydroxymethane sulfonate, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, sodium thioglycolate, sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate, sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate, potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium metabisulfite or a combination thereof.
7. The skin care composition according to claim 6, wherein the reducing agent comprises a sulfite selected from the group consisting of sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium bisulfite, ammonium sulfite, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium dithionite, sodium metabisulfite, or mixtures thereof.
8. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising one or more chelating agents, the one or more chelating agents comprising disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, etidronic acid, sodium phytate, phytic acid, oxalic acid and derivatives, sodium gluconate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, or a combination thereof.
9. The skin care composition of claim 8, wherein the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA.
10. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition has a b value of less than 25, preferably less than 20, and more preferably less than 15 according to the Color Test Method.
11. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the skin care composition is free of formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers.
12. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the skin care composition is free of parabens and sulfate-based surfactants.
13. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the dispersed phase further comprises from about 1% to about 35% silicone oil, preferably from about 5% to about 30% silicone oil, and more preferably from about 10% to about 28% silicone oil.
14. A skin care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the cell wall disruptor comprises hydroxyacetophenone, and the preservative system further comprises an aromatic alcohol selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, tryptophan, tyrosol, phenylethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof; wherein the one or more antioxidants include carnosine; Wherein the one or more reducing agents include sodium sulfite.
15. The skin care composition of claim 14, wherein the aromatic alcohol comprises phenoxyethanol.
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