Skin color homogenizing and brightening composition, preparation method thereof and application of skin color homogenizing and brightening composition in cosmetics

Abstract

The invention provides a skin color homogenizing and brightening composition as well as a preparation method and application thereof in cosmetics, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The skin color homogenizing and brightening composition is prepared from rice fermentation product filtrate, a grape fermentation extract, a gentiana algida root extract, a white willow bark extract, alpha-arbutin, nicotinamide lipidosome, tranexamic acid and folic acid. According to the skin color homogenizing and brightening composition disclosed by the invention, whitening is realized by virtue of triple pathways of'inhibiting melanogenesis (alpha-arbutin and a gentiana australis root extract), blocking transfer (nicotinamide liposome) and accelerating metabolism (rice fermentation product filtrate, a white willow bark extract and folic acid) '; meanwhile, the problem of uneven skin color is improved by combining antioxidant (grape fermentation extract and tranexamic acid), anti-inflammatory (gentiana algida root extract) and moisturizing (rice fermentation product filtrate), and the brightening requirements of darkness, color spots and sensitive skin are met.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a skin-evening and brightening composition, a preparation method thereof, and application thereof in cosmetics. Background Art

[0002] Currently, there are a wide variety of cosmetics on the market for improving skin color, using a wide variety of technologies and raw materials. Some products use chemical whitening agents, such as hydroquinone and kojic acid, to inhibit tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production, thereby achieving the effect of whitening and brightening the skin. However, these chemical whitening agents have many disadvantages. Hydroquinone may cause skin irritation and allergic reactions, and long-term use also has a potential risk of cancer; kojic acid has poor stability and is easily affected by factors such as light and temperature and loses its activity, and is somewhat irritating to the skin.

[0003] At the same time, the causes of uneven skin tone are complex and diverse, including ultraviolet radiation, endocrine disorders, post-inflammatory pigmentation, etc. Existing cosmetic technologies often have difficulty in fully addressing these complex factors, resulting in unsatisfactory results in improving uneven skin tone. For example, for uneven skin tone caused by post-inflammatory pigmentation, conventional whitening ingredients are difficult to effectively penetrate deep into the skin to work, and cannot achieve accurate repair of local pigmentation areas.

[0004] Therefore, developing a safe, efficient, and comprehensive composition that can improve uneven skin tone and brighten skin tone and its preparation method, and successfully applying it in cosmetics, has become a key issue that needs to be solved in the cosmetics industry. The present invention is based on this background and conducts in-depth research to provide consumers with a better quality and more effective solution for brightening skin tone. Summary of the invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a skin-evening and brightening composition, a preparation method thereof and application thereof in cosmetics. The skin-evening and brightening composition of the present invention has excellent skin-lightening and whitening effects.

[0006] In order to achieve the above-mentioned object of the invention, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: The invention provides a skin-lightening composition, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 10-15 parts of rice fermentation product filtrate, 3-8 parts of grape fermentation extract, 2-5 parts of gentiana lutea root extract, 1-3 parts of white willow bark extract, 2-5 parts of alpha-arbutin, 3-8 parts of nicotinamide liposomes, 1-3 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.1-1 parts of folic acid.

[0007] Preferably, the rice fermentation product filtrate is obtained by subjecting rice to aerobic fermentation with Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 and anaerobic fermentation with Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131.

[0008] Preferably, the grape fermentation extract is obtained from grape leaves by anaerobic fermentation with Streptococcus CICC 6280 and Bifidobacterium longum CICC6187.

[0009] Preferably, the gentiana lutea root extract is obtained by extracting the gentiana lutea root through microwave, pulsed electric field or ultrasound.

[0010] Preferably, the willow bark extract is obtained by ultrasonic extraction with an ethanol solution.

[0011] Preferably, the preparation method of the nicotinamide liposome comprises: mixing phospholipids, cholesterol, nicotinamide and anhydrous ethanol, rotary evaporating, rotary shaking with PBS buffer, ultrasonicating, centrifuging, and vacuum freeze-drying the precipitate to obtain nicotinamide liposome.

[0012] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned skin-evening and brightening composition, comprising: mixing and stirring rice fermentation product filtrate, grape fermentation extract, gentiana lutea root extract, white willow bark extract, α-arbutin, nicotinamide liposomes, tranexamic acid and folic acid, adjusting the pH to 5.5-6.5, and high-pressure homogenizing to obtain the skin-evening and brightening composition.

[0013] Preferably, the pressure of the high-pressure homogenization is 30-40 MPa, and the number of cycles is 2-5 times.

[0014] The present invention also provides application of the above-mentioned skin color even-lightening composition in cosmetics.

[0015] Preferably, the weight percentage of the skin tone even-brightening composition in the cosmetics is 5%-15%.

[0016] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: The present invention provides a skin-evening and brightening composition, comprising: rice fermentation product filtrate, grape fermentation extract, gentiana root extract, white willow bark extract, α-arbutin, nicotinamide liposome, tranexamic acid and folic acid. The skin-evening and brightening composition of the present invention achieves whitening through the triple pathway of "inhibiting melanin production (α-arbutin, gentiana root extract) + blocking transfer (nicotinamide liposome) + accelerating metabolism (white willow bark extract, folic acid, rice fermentation product filtrate)", while combining antioxidant (grape fermentation extract, tranexamic acid) + anti-inflammatory (gentiana root extract) + moisturizing (rice fermentation product filtrate) to improve uneven skin color in multiple dimensions, and is suitable for brightening dull, pigmented and sensitive skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0017] The invention provides a skin-lightening composition, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 10-15 parts of rice fermentation product filtrate, 3-8 parts of grape fermentation extract, 2-5 parts of gentiana lutea root extract, 1-3 parts of white willow bark extract, 2-5 parts of alpha-arbutin, 3-8 parts of nicotinamide liposomes, 1-3 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.1-1 parts of folic acid.

[0018] The rice fermentation product filtrate of the present invention is preferably obtained by sequentially subjecting rice to aerobic fermentation with Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 and anaerobic fermentation with Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131. ​​The preparation method of the rice fermentation product filtrate preferably comprises: crushing the rice through a 100-200 mesh sieve, mixing with 10-20 times the weight of water, inoculating with Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 for aerobic fermentation, sterilizing, inoculating with Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131 for anaerobic fermentation, sterilizing, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate to obtain the rice fermentation product filtrate. The bacterial activity of Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 is preferably 2 billion to 3 billion CFU / g, more preferably 2.5 billion CFU / g, the inoculation amount is preferably 6‰-10‰ of the weight of the rice, more preferably 8‰, the fermentation temperature is preferably 23-28°C, more preferably 25°C, the pH value is preferably 5.5-6.5, more preferably 6, and the time is preferably 36-72h, more preferably 50h; the bacterial activity of Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131 is preferably 3 billion to 5 billion CFU / g, more preferably 4 billion CFU / g, the inoculation amount is preferably 3‰-8‰ of the weight of the rice, more preferably 5‰, the fermentation temperature is preferably 33-38°C, more preferably 35°C, the pH value is preferably 5-6, more preferably 5.5, and the time is preferably 24-36h, more preferably 30h.

[0019] The rice fermentation product prepared by the method of the present invention is rich in amino acids, vitamins and minerals, can gently promote the metabolism of epidermal keratin, accelerate the shedding of dull keratin, and improve uneven skin tone; contains natural moisturizing factors (such as polysaccharides), enhances the water-locking ability of the skin barrier, and improves the translucency of the skin.

[0020] The grape fermentation extract of the present invention is obtained by anaerobic fermentation of grape leaves by Streptococcus CICC 6280 and Bifidobacterium longum CICC6187. The preparation method of the grape fermentation extract preferably comprises: after drying and crushing the grape leaves, adding 8-12 times the weight of water, inoculating the grape leaves with Streptococcus CICC 6280 and Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 at 35-40°C and pH 6-6.5 for 18-24h anaerobic fermentation, sterilizing, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate to obtain the grape fermentation extract. The bacterial activity of Streptococcus CICC 6280 is preferably 1 billion to 2 billion CFU / g, more preferably 1.5 billion CFU / g, the inoculation amount is preferably 3‰-5‰ of the weight of the grape leaves, more preferably 4‰, the bacterial activity of Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 is preferably 400 million to 800 million CFU / g, more preferably 500 million CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is preferably 8‰-12‰ of the weight of the grape leaves, more preferably 10‰.

[0021] The polyphenols and antioxidants in the grape fermentation extract prepared by the method of the present invention can remove free radicals, inhibit ultraviolet-induced oxidative stress, delay dullness caused by photoaging, promote collagen synthesis, improve skin elasticity, and assist in brightening skin tone.

[0022] The gentiana root extract of the present invention is obtained by extracting the gentiana root through microwave, pulse electric field and ultrasound. The preparation method of the gentiana root extract preferably comprises: drying and crushing the gentiana root through a 200-300 mesh sieve, adding 15-20 weight of 70%-80% (v / v) ethanol solution, sequentially performing microwave extraction at 300-400W and 50-60°C for 10-20min, performing pulse electric field treatment at 10-20kV / cm, 20-30μs, and 50-60Hz for 3-8min, performing ultrasound treatment at 200-300W, 30-40kHz, and 50-60°C for 15-25min, centrifuging at 3000-4000rpm for 5-10min, taking the supernatant and concentrating and drying to obtain the gentiana root extract. More preferably, the method comprises: drying and crushing the root of Gentiana lutea and passing it through a 250-mesh sieve, adding 18 weight percent (v / v) ethanol solution, sequentially subjecting the extract to microwave extraction at 350 W and 55° C. for 15 min, subjecting the extract to pulse electric field treatment at 15 kV / cm, 25 μs and 55 Hz for 5 min, subjecting the extract to ultrasonic treatment at 250 W, 35 kHz and 55° C. for 20 min, subjecting the extract to centrifugation at 3500 rpm for 8 min, and concentrating and drying the supernatant to obtain the Gentiana lutea root extract.

[0023] The gentiana root extract prepared by the method of the invention can inhibit tyrosinase activity, reduce melanin production, and has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, relieves skin sensitivity and redness, and improves post-inflammatory pigmentation.

[0024] The white willow bark extract of the present invention is obtained by ultrasonic extraction of an ethanol solution. The preparation method of the white willow bark extract preferably includes: crushing the white willow bark through a 400-500 mesh sieve, adding 8-12 parts by weight of a 60%-70% (v / v) ethanol solution, ultrasonically treating for 30-40 minutes at 300-400W, 40-50kHz, and 75-85°C, filtering, concentrating and drying to obtain the white willow bark extract. More preferably, it includes: crushing the white willow bark through a 450 mesh sieve, adding 10 parts by weight of a 65% (v / v) ethanol solution, ultrasonically treating for 35 minutes at 350W, 40-50kHz, and 80°C, filtering, concentrating and drying to obtain the white willow bark extract.

[0025] The white willow bark extract prepared by the method of the present invention mildly promotes keratin metabolism, unclogs pores, reduces local dullness caused by clogged pores, and cooperates with other whitening ingredients to enhance permeability and improve overall efficacy.

[0026] The method for preparing nicotinamide liposomes of the present invention preferably comprises: mixing phospholipids, cholesterol, nicotinamide and anhydrous ethanol, rotary evaporation, rotary oscillation with PBS buffer, ultrasonication, centrifugation, and vacuum freeze drying the precipitate to obtain nicotinamide liposomes. The weight ratio of the phospholipids, cholesterol, and nicotinamide is 3-5:0.5-1.5:0.5-1.5, more preferably 4:1:1, and the volume ratio of the total mass of the phospholipids, cholesterol, and nicotinamide to anhydrous ethanol is 1:18-23 g / mL, more preferably 1:20 g / mL.

[0027] The nicotinamide liposome prepared by the present invention can improve the transdermal absorption rate of nicotinamide, block the transfer of melanin to the epidermis, even out skin color, regulate sebum secretion, improve oily and dark yellow, and enhance skin barrier function; it has a sustained release effect and can reduce irritation to the skin.

[0028] The α-arbutin and gentiana root extract in the skin-evening and brightening composition of the present invention can inhibit the production of melanin, nicotinamide liposomes can block the transfer of melanin to the epidermis, white willow bark extract and folic acid accelerate keratin metabolism, grape fermentation extract and tranexamic acid have antioxidant effects, and rice fermentation product filtrate has moisturizing effects. The skin-evening and brightening composition of the present invention achieves whitening through the triple pathway of "inhibiting melanin production + blocking transfer + accelerating metabolism", and at the same time combines antioxidant + anti-inflammatory + moisturizing to improve uneven skin color in multiple dimensions, and is suitable for brightening the needs of dull skin, spots and sensitive skin.

[0029] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned skin-evening and brightening composition, comprising: mixing and stirring rice fermentation product filtrate, grape fermentation extract, gentiana lutea root extract, white willow bark extract, α-arbutin, nicotinamide liposomes, tranexamic acid and folic acid, adjusting the pH to 5.5-6.5, and high-pressure homogenizing to obtain the skin-evening and brightening composition.

[0030] The pressure of the high-pressure homogenization of the present invention is preferably 30-40 MPa, more preferably 35 MPa, and the number of cycles is preferably 2-5 times, more preferably 3 times.

[0031] The present invention also provides application of the above-mentioned skin color even-lightening composition in cosmetics, wherein the weight percentage of the skin color even-lightening composition in the cosmetics is 5%-15%.

[0032] In the present invention, unless otherwise specified, all raw material components are commercially available products well known to those skilled in the art.

[0033] The technical solutions in the present invention will be described clearly and completely below in conjunction with the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of them. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0034] In the following embodiments, unless otherwise specified, all of them are conventional methods.

[0035] Unless otherwise specified, the materials and reagents used in the following examples can be obtained from commercial sources.

[0036] Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570, Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131, Streptococcus sp. CICC 6280, Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187, Saccharomyces cerevisiae CICC 1406, and Lactobacillus plantarum CICC 25125 were purchased from China Industrial Microbiological Culture Collection.

[0037] Example 1 Skin tone brightening composition (1) Preparation of rice fermentation product filtrate The Wuchang rice was crushed and passed through a 150-mesh sieve, mixed with 15 times the weight of water, inoculated with Leuconostoc pseudoenteroides CICC22570, aerobically fermented for 50 hours at 25° C. and pH 6, sterilized, inoculated with Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131, anaerobically fermented for 30 hours at 35° C. and pH 5.5, sterilized and filtered, and the filtrate was concentrated to 1 / 4 of the volume to obtain the rice fermentation product filtrate; The bacterial activity of Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 is 2.5 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 8‰ of the weight of the Wuchang rice; the bacterial activity of Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131 is 4 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 5‰ of the weight of the rice; (2) Preparation of grape fermentation extract After the grape leaves are dried and crushed, 10 times the weight of water is added, and the grape leaves are inoculated with Streptococcus CICC 6280 and Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 for anaerobic fermentation at 37°C and pH 6.2 for 20 hours, sterilized, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated and vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 4% to obtain the grape fermentation extract; wherein the bacterial activity of Streptococcus CICC 6280 is 1.5 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 4‰ of the weight of the grape leaves, and the bacterial activity of Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 is 500 million CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 10‰ of the weight of the grape leaves; (3) Preparation of Gentiana lutea root extract The root of Gentiana lutea was dried and crushed to pass through a 250-mesh sieve, 18 weight portions of a 75% (v / v) ethanol solution were added, microwave extraction was performed at 350 W and 55° C. for 15 min, pulse electric field treatment was performed at 15 kV / cm, 25 μs, and 55 Hz for 5 min, ultrasonic treatment was performed at 250 W, 35 kHz, and 55° C. for 20 min, centrifugation was performed at 3500 rpm for 8 min, the supernatant was concentrated, and vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 5%, to obtain the Gentiana lutea root extract; (4) Preparation of white willow bark extract The bark of white willow was crushed and passed through a 450-mesh sieve, 10 parts by weight of a 65% (v / v) ethanol solution was added, and ultrasonic treatment was performed at 350W, 45kHz, and 80°C for 35 minutes, and the filtrate was concentrated and vacuum-freeze-dried to a water content of 3% to obtain the white willow bark extract; (5) Preparation of nicotinamide liposomes Mix hydrogenated soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide with anhydrous ethanol, stir at 50°C for 30 minutes, rotary evaporate ethanol at 40°C, 150rpm and 2.5kPa to form a lipid film, add 58°C PBS buffer (pH 6) 20 times the weight of the lipid film, and rotate and shake at 55°C and 200 rpm for 1 hour to obtain multilamellar liposomes, ultrasonically treat at 200W and 35°C for 10 minutes, centrifuge at 4000rpm for 15 minutes, and vacuum freeze-dry the precipitate to a water content of 2% to obtain the nicotinamide liposomes; wherein the mass ratio of soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide is 4:1:1, and the volume ratio of the total weight of soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide to anhydrous ethanol is 1:20g / mL; (6) Preparation of a composition for brightening and even skin tone Weigh 13 parts by weight of rice fermentation product filtrate, 5 parts by weight of grape fermentation extract, 3 parts by weight of gentiana root extract, 2 parts by weight of willow bark extract, 3 parts by weight of α-arbutin, 5 parts by weight of nicotinamide liposome, 2 parts by weight of tranexamic acid and 0.5 parts by weight of folic acid; The rice fermentation product filtrate, grape fermentation extract, gentiana lutea root extract, white willow bark extract, α-arbutin, niacinamide liposomes, tranexamic acid and folic acid are mixed and stirred, the pH is adjusted to 6, and high-pressure homogenization is performed at 35 MPa and 50°C for 3 times, each time for 3 minutes, to obtain a composition for even-toned skin.

[0038] Example 2 Skin tone brightening composition (1) Preparation of rice fermentation product filtrate The Wuchang rice was crushed and passed through a 100-mesh sieve, mixed with 10 times the weight of water, inoculated with Leuconostoc pseudoenteroides CICC22570, aerobically fermented for 72 hours at 23°C and pH 5.5, sterilized, inoculated with Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131, anaerobically fermented for 36 hours at 33°C and pH 5, sterilized and filtered, and the filtrate was concentrated to 1 / 3 of the volume to obtain the rice fermentation product filtrate; The bacterial activity of Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 is 2 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 10‰ of the weight of the Wuchang rice; the bacterial activity of Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131 is 3 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 8‰ of the weight of the rice; (2) Preparation of grape fermentation extract After the grape leaves are dried and crushed, 8 times the weight of water is added, and the grape leaves are inoculated with Streptococcus CICC 6280 and Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 for anaerobic fermentation at 35°C and pH 6 for 24 hours, sterilized, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated and vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 3% to obtain the grape fermentation extract; wherein the bacterial activity of Streptococcus CICC 6280 is 1 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 5‰ of the weight of the grape leaves, and the bacterial activity of Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 is 400 million CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 12‰ of the weight of the grape leaves; (3) Preparation of Gentiana lutea root extract The root of Gentiana lutea was dried and crushed, passed through a 200-mesh sieve, and 15 weight percent of a 70% (v / v) ethanol solution was added, and microwave extraction was performed at 300 W and 50° C. for 20 min, pulse electric field treatment was performed at 10 kV / cm, 20 μs, and 50 Hz for 8 min, ultrasonic treatment was performed at 200 W, 30 kHz, and 50° C. for 25 min, and centrifugation was performed at 3000 rpm for 10 min. The supernatant was concentrated and vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 3%, thereby obtaining the Gentiana lutea root extract; (4) Preparation of white willow bark extract The bark of white willow was crushed and passed through a 400-mesh sieve, 8 parts by weight of a 60% (v / v) ethanol solution was added, and ultrasonic treatment was performed at 300W, 40kHz, and 75°C for 40 minutes, and the filtrate was concentrated and vacuum-freeze-dried to a water content of 4%, thereby obtaining the white willow bark extract; (5) Preparation of nicotinamide liposomes The hydrogenated soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide were mixed with anhydrous ethanol, stirred at 45°C for 40 minutes, and the ethanol was rotary evaporated at 35°C, 100 rpm and a pressure of 2 kPa to form a lipid film, and 55°C PBS buffer (pH 5.8) of 18 times the weight of the lipid film was added, and the mixture was rotary shaken at 150 rpm for 1.5 hours to obtain multilamellar liposomes, and after ultrasonic treatment at 180W and 30°C for 18 minutes, the mixture was centrifuged at 3500 rpm for 20 minutes, and the precipitate was vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 3% to obtain the nicotinamide liposomes; wherein the mass ratio of soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide was 3:1:1, and the volume ratio of the total weight of soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide to anhydrous ethanol was 1:18 g / mL; (6) Preparation of a composition for brightening and even skin tone Weigh 10 parts by weight of rice fermentation product filtrate, 3 parts by weight of grape fermentation extract, 2 parts by weight of Gentiana lutea root extract, 1 part by weight of willow bark extract, 2 parts by weight of α-arbutin, 3 parts by weight of nicotinamide liposome, 1 part by weight of tranexamic acid and 0.1 part by weight of folic acid; The rice fermentation product filtrate, grape fermentation extract, gentiana lutea root extract, white willow bark extract, α-arbutin, niacinamide liposomes, tranexamic acid and folic acid are mixed and stirred, the pH is adjusted to 5.5, and high-pressure homogenization is carried out at 30 MPa and 45°C for 5 times, each time for 2 minutes, to obtain a composition for even-toned skin.

[0039] Example 3 Skin tone brightening composition (1) Preparation of rice fermentation product filtrate The Wuchang rice was crushed and passed through a 200-mesh sieve, mixed with 20 times the weight of water, inoculated with Leuconostoc pseudoenteroides CICC22570, aerobically fermented at 28°C and pH 6.5 for 36 hours, sterilized, inoculated with Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131, fermented at 38°C and pH 6 for 24 hours, sterilized and filtered, and the filtrate was concentrated to 1 / 5 of the volume to obtain the rice fermentation product filtrate; The bacterial activity of Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 is 3 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 6‰ of the weight of the Wuchang rice; the bacterial activity of Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131 is 5 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 3‰ of the weight of the rice; (2) Preparation of grape fermentation extract After the grape leaves are dried and crushed, 12 times the weight of water is added, and the grape leaves are inoculated with Streptococcus CICC 6280 and Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 for anaerobic fermentation at 40°C and pH 6.5 for 18 hours, sterilized, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated and vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 3% to obtain the grape fermentation extract; wherein the bacterial activity of Streptococcus CICC 6280 is 2 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 3‰ of the weight of the grape leaves, and the bacterial activity of Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 is 800 million CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 8‰ of the weight of the grape leaves; (3) Preparation of Gentiana lutea root extract The root of Gentiana lutea was dried and crushed, passed through a 300-mesh sieve, and 20 weight percent of an 80% (v / v) ethanol solution was added, and microwave extraction was performed at 400 W and 60° C. for 10 min, pulse electric field treatment was performed at 20 kV / cm, 30 μs, and 60 Hz for 3 min, ultrasonic treatment was performed at 300 W, 40 kHz, and 60° C. for 15 min, and centrifugation was performed at 4000 rpm for 5 min. The supernatant was concentrated and vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 2% to obtain the Gentiana lutea root extract; (4) Preparation of white willow bark extract The bark of white willow was crushed and passed through a 500-mesh sieve, 12 parts by weight of a 70% (v / v) ethanol solution was added, and ultrasonic treatment was performed at 400W, 50kHz, and 85°C for 30 minutes, and the filtrate was concentrated and vacuum-freeze-dried to a water content of 4%, thereby obtaining the white willow bark extract; (5) Preparation of nicotinamide liposomes The hydrogenated soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide were mixed with anhydrous ethanol, stirred at 53°C for 27 minutes, and the ethanol was rotary evaporated at 43°C, 180rpm and a pressure of 2.8kPa to form a lipid film, and a 60°C PBS buffer (pH 6.3) of 22 times the weight of the lipid film was added, and the mixture was rotary shaken at 58°C and 230 rpm for 0.8h to obtain multilamellar liposomes, and after ultrasonic treatment at 220W and 33°C for 8 minutes, the mixture was centrifuged at 4500rpm for 12 minutes, and the precipitate was vacuum freeze-dried to a water content of 3% to obtain the nicotinamide liposomes; wherein the mass ratio of soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide was 3:2:1, and the volume ratio of the total weight of soybean lecithin, cholesterol and nicotinamide to anhydrous ethanol was 1:23g / mL; (6) Preparation of a composition for brightening and even skin tone Weigh 15 parts by weight of rice fermentation product filtrate, 8 parts by weight of grape fermentation extract, 5 parts by weight of gentiana root extract, 3 parts by weight of willow bark extract, 5 parts by weight of α-arbutin, 8 parts by weight of nicotinamide liposome, 3 parts by weight of tranexamic acid and 1 part by weight of folic acid; The rice fermentation product filtrate, grape fermentation extract, gentiana lutea root extract, willow bark extract, α-arbutin, niacinamide liposomes, tranexamic acid and folic acid are mixed and stirred, the pH is adjusted to 6.2, and high-pressure homogenization is performed twice at 40 MPa and 55°C for 5 minutes each time to obtain a composition for even-toned skin.

[0040] Example 4 Brightening Complexion Cream Weigh 15 parts by weight of the composition of Example 1, 5 parts by weight of PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, 8 parts by weight of citron oil, 3 parts by weight of cetearyl palmitate, 0.3 parts by weight of dehydrogenated xanthan gum, 0.8 parts by weight of ethylhexylglycerin and deionized water to 100 parts by weight; Melt cetearyl palmitate and citron oil at 75°C to form an oil phase; mix deionized water, PEG-25 triolein and dehydrogenated xanthan gum, heat to 75°C, and stir until completely dissolved to form an aqueous phase; add the oil phase to the aqueous phase, and homogenize at 3000rpm for 5 minutes to form colostrum; after cooling to 40°C, add the composition and ethylhexylglycerin, adjust the pH value to 5.5, and homogenize at 3500rpm for 8 minutes to obtain a skin-evening and brightening facial cream.

[0041] Example 5 Skin Brightening Lotion Weigh 10 parts by weight of the composition of Example 1, 4 parts by weight of dipropylene glycol, 6 parts by weight of caprylic / capric triglyceride, 2 parts by weight of PEG-100 stearate, 0.2 parts by weight of acrylates / C10-30 alcohol acrylate crosspolymer potassium salt, 0.7 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 parts by weight of disodium EDTA and deionized water to make up to 100 parts by weight; Deionized water, dipropylene glycol, disodium EDTA and potassium salt of acrylates / C10-30 alcohol acrylate cross-linked polymer are mixed, heated to 75°C and stirred to dissolve to obtain an aqueous phase; caprylic / capric triglyceride and PEG-100 stearate are mixed, heated to 75°C to melt, and an oil phase is obtained; the oil phase is added to the aqueous phase and mixed, and the mixture is homogenized at 2500rpm for 3min, cooled to 40°C, the composition and phenoxyethanol are added, the pH value is adjusted to 5.5, and the mixture is homogenized at 1000rpm for 5min to obtain a skin-evening lotion.

[0042] Example 6 Brightening Face Cleanser Weigh 12 parts by weight of the composition of Example 1, 15 parts by weight of sodium cocoyl glycinate, 5 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, 3 parts by weight of decyl glucoside, 3 parts by weight of glycerol, 0.5 parts by weight of polyquaternium-10, 1 part by weight of ethylhexylglycerin and deionized water to make up to 100 parts by weight; Deionized water was heated to 50°C, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, decyl glucoside, polyquaternium-10 and glycerin were dissolved in sequence, the temperature was lowered to 30°C and the composition was added thereto, homogenized at 2000 rpm for 3 min, ethylhexylglycerin was added, the pH value was adjusted to 5.8, and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 5 min to obtain a facial cleanser for brightening skin tone.

[0043] Comparative Example 1 The difference from Example 1 is that the method for preparing the rice fermentation product filtrate in step (1) is as follows: Wuchang rice is crushed through a 150-mesh sieve, mixed with 15 times the weight of water, inoculated with brewer's yeast CICC 1406, aerobically fermented at 28° C. and pH 6 for 50 h, sterilized, inoculated with plant lactobacillus CICC 25125, fermented at 37° C. and pH 6 for 30 h, sterilized and filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated to 1 / 4 of the volume to obtain the rice fermentation product filtrate.

[0044] Comparative Example 2 Different from Example 1, the preparation method of the grape fermentation extract in step (2) is as follows: after drying and crushing the grape leaves, adding 10 times the weight of water, first inoculating the grape leaves with Streptococcus CICC 6280 and fermenting them anaerobically at 37°C and pH 6.2 for 20 hours, sterilizing, then inoculating Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 and fermenting them anaerobically at 37°C and pH 6.2 for 20 hours, sterilizing, filtering, concentrating the filtrate, and vacuum freeze-drying to a water content of 4% to obtain the grape fermentation extract; Among them, the bacterial activity of Streptococcus CICC 6280 is 1.5 billion CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 4‰ of the weight of the grape leaves; the bacterial activity of Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187 is 500 million CFU / g, and the inoculation amount is 10‰ of the weight of the grape leaves.

[0045] Comparative Example 3 Different from Example 1, in the preparation of the gentiana lutea root extract in step (3), the 75% (v / v) ethanol solution is replaced by deionized water.

[0046] Comparative Example 4 Different from Example 1, the nicotinamide liposome in step (6) is replaced by nicotinamide.

[0047] Comparative Example 5 The difference from Example 1 is that the rice fermentation product filtrate in step (6) is discarded and the weight of the willow bark extract is adjusted to 15 parts by weight.

[0048] Comparative Example 6 The difference from Example 1 is that the willow bark extract in step (6) is discarded and the weight of the rice fermentation product filtrate is adjusted to 15 parts by weight.

[0049] Comparative Example 7 The difference from Example 4 is that "the composition of Example 1" is replaced by "the composition of Comparative Example 1".

[0050] Comparative Example 8 The difference from Example 4 is that "the composition of Example 1" is replaced by "the composition of Comparative Example 2".

[0051] Comparative Example 9 The difference from Example 4 is that "the composition of Example 1" is replaced by "the composition of Comparative Example 3".

[0052] Comparative Example 10 The difference from Example 4 is that "the composition of Example 1" is replaced by "the composition of Comparative Example 4".

[0053] Comparative Example 11 The difference from Example 4 is that "the composition of Example 1" is replaced by "the composition of Comparative Example 5".

[0054] Comparative Example 12 The difference from Example 4 is that "the composition of Example 1" is replaced by "the composition of Comparative Example 6".

[0055] Test Example 1 Tyrosinase activity test Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the synthesis of melanin. Inhibiting it can effectively reduce the synthesis of melanin and play a whitening role.

[0056] The tyrosinase activity of the compositions of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 was determined with reference to the tyrosinase inhibitory activity detection method in CN 114409822 A. The specific results are shown in Table 1.

[0057] The compositions of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were respectively dissolved in a 50% (w / v) DMSO aqueous solution and diluted to a solution with a concentration of 15% (w / w).

[0058] After mixing 130 μL of phosphate buffer solution (50 mM, pH = 6.8), 10 μL of tyrosinase solution (final concentration 33.3 U / mL) and 10 μL of the test solution, add 50 μL of L-Dopa (final concentration 0.5 mM) and mix well. After 10 minutes, measure the OD value at a wavelength of 490 nm. At the same time, set up a control group, and add 10 μL of DMSO aqueous solution to the control group instead of the test solution. Set up 5 replicate wells for each well and calculate the mean.

[0059] Tyrosinase activity inhibition rate (%) = (OD control - OD test solution) / OD control × 100%.

[0060] Table 1 Tyrosinase activity inhibition rate of each group of skin color brightening compositions

[0061] It can be seen from the data in Table 1 that the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate of Examples 1-3 is higher than that of Comparative Examples 1-6. From the data comparison of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2, it can be seen that different fermentation microorganisms and fermentation sequences have different effects on the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate. From the data comparison of Example 1 and Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that the compositions prepared using different solvents have different effects on the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate. From the data comparison of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 5-6, it can be seen that the combination of rice fermentation product filtrate and white willow bark extract can improve the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate. In summary, the skin color brightening composition prepared by the method of the present invention can significantly improve the tyrosinase activity inhibition rate and has excellent whitening and lightening effects.

[0062] Test Example 2 Skin irritation test 70 Japanese white rabbits weighing 4-5 kg ​​were selected and divided into 7 groups (creams of Example 4 and Comparative Examples 7-12), with 10 rabbits in each group. There was no significant difference between the groups, so a comparative test could be conducted.

[0063] Test method: Take 2g of the sample to be tested from each group to ensure that the test substance has good contact with the skin. 24 hours before the test, cut the hair on both sides of the spine of the test animal without damaging the epidermis. The hair removal range is 3cm×3cm, and the application area is 2.5×2.5cm. Apply the test substance on one side and the other side as a control. Apply once a day for 14 consecutive days. Starting from the second day, cut the hair before each application, use warm water to remove the residual test substance, and observe the results after 1 hour.

[0064] The test results were scored according to the reaction scoring standard in the multiple skin irritation test method in the "Cosmetic Hygiene Standards" (2007 edition), and the average score of each animal was calculated every day. The skin irritation intensity was determined according to the skin irritation intensity grading table. The average score of each animal in each group every day is shown in Table 2.

[0065] Table 2 Skin irritation results of each group of creams

[0066] As can be seen from the data in Table 2, the irritation intensity evaluation of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 are all moderately irritating. Except for Comparative Example 4, the difference in the mean score of each animal per day in the other groups is not obvious, indicating that the nicotinamide liposome is less irritating than the skin-lightening composition composed of nicotinamide.

[0067] Test Example 3 Whitening test Healthy female volunteers aged 30-45 were selected and divided into 7 groups, each with 10 people. There was no significant difference in age and skin condition between the groups. The skin color even-brightening creams of Example 4 and Comparative Examples 7-12 were applied respectively, and the other group was not applied with the cream as a control. The method of using the cream is to apply the cream the size of a soybean grain on the face after cleaning the skin, and gently massage until it is evenly distributed, once in the morning and evening.

[0068] Each group was tested for facial brightness on the 15th and 30th days, and the skin brightness improvement rate of each group was calculated. The specific results are shown in Table 3.

[0069] Skin brightness is measured using the skin analyzer's skin tone probe.

[0070] Skin brightness improvement rate = (skin brightness on day n – skin brightness on day 0) ÷ skin brightness on day 0 × 100%, where n is 15 or 30.

[0071] Table 3 Skin brightness improvement rate of each group

[0072] It can be seen from the data in Table 3 that the use of the creams of Example 4 and Comparative Examples 7-14 improves the skin brightness to varying degrees. It can be seen from the data comparison of Example 4 and Comparative Examples 7-9 that the creams obtained by using different fermentation microorganisms, fermentation sequences, and different solvents have different skin lightening effects. It can be seen from the data comparison of Example 4 and Comparative Example 10 that the use of nicotinamide liposomes has better skin lightening effect than liposomes, which may be due to the sustained release of nicotinamide liposomes, which can continuously release nicotinamide, thereby improving the skin lightening effect. It can be seen from the data comparison of Example 4 and Comparative Examples 11-12 that the combination of rice fermentation product filtrate and white willow bark extract can significantly improve skin brightness.

[0073] The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention. It should be pointed out that for ordinary technicians in this technical field, several improvements and modifications can be made without departing from the principle of the present invention. These improvements and modifications should also be regarded as the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composition for brightening skin tone, characterized in that: The invention comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 10-15 parts of rice fermentation product filtrate, 3-8 parts of grape fermentation extract, 2-5 parts of gentiana root extract, 1-3 parts of white willow bark extract, 2-5 parts of alpha-arbutin, 3-8 parts of nicotinamide liposome, 1-3 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.1-1 parts of folic acid.

2. The skin tone brightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The rice fermentation product filtrate is obtained by sequentially subjecting rice to aerobic fermentation with Leuconostoc pseudomesenteroides CICC 22570 and anaerobic fermentation with Lactobacillus lentus CICC 6131.

3. The skin tone brightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The grape fermentation extract is obtained by anaerobic fermentation of grape leaves with Streptococcus CICC 6280 and Bifidobacterium longum CICC 6187.

4. The skin tone brightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The gentiana lutea root extract is obtained by extracting the gentiana lutea root through microwave, pulse electric field and ultrasound.

5. The skin tone even-lightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The white willow bark extract is obtained by ultrasonic extraction with an ethanol solution.

6. The skin tone even-brightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the nicotinamide liposome comprises: mixing phospholipids, cholesterol, nicotinamide and anhydrous ethanol, rotary evaporating, rotary shaking with PBS buffer, ultrasonicating and centrifuging, vacuum freeze-drying the precipitate, and obtaining the nicotinamide liposome.

7. The method for preparing the skin-evening and lightening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that: include: The rice fermentation product filtrate, grape fermentation extract, gentiana lutea root extract, willow bark extract, α-arbutin, nicotinamide liposome, tranexamic acid and folic acid are mixed and stirred, the pH value is adjusted to 5.5-6.5, and high-pressure homogenization is performed to obtain a composition for even skin tone.

8. The preparation method according to claim 7, characterized in that: The pressure of the high-pressure homogenization is 30-40 MPa, and the number of cycles is 2-5 times.

9. Use of the skin-evening and lightening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in cosmetics.

10. The use according to claim 9, characterized in that: The weight percentage of the skin tone even-brightening composition in cosmetics is 5%-15%.

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