Cosmetic with whitening composition and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic containing a whitening composition and a preparation method of the cosmetic. The cosmetic contains the whitening composition, and the whitening composition contains barley extract, ulmus pumila bark extract, bisabolol and nicotinamide. According to the scheme, generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin can be reduced, meanwhile, redundant free radicals in the skin can be reduced, the effects of resisting oxidation and improving the darkness of the skin are achieved, saccharification reaction can be inhibited, final products of the saccharification reaction can be reduced, the whitening degree of the skin can be improved, and irritation is low.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a cosmetic having a whitening composition and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Human skin color is mainly determined by the chromophores of melanin, hemoglobin, bilirubin and carotene, among which the content and dispersion of melanin are the most important influencing factors. Melanin is first synthesized in the melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, and then transferred to the adjacent keratinocytes through slender dendrites. Finally, it will gradually transfer from the basal layer to the stratum corneum and fall off with the keratinocytes, which can protect the epidermis from harmful stimuli such as ultraviolet radiation. However, when melanin is synthesized excessively and distributed unevenly, it will cause the skin color to darken and pigment deposition, resulting in skin problems such as freckles and brown spots. In addition, the glycation reaction of the skin, the final product of the free radical oxidation reaction, will promote the synthesis of melanin, which will further cause the skin to turn yellow and dull.

[0003] However, most cosmetics on the market only prevent the generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin, and the whitening raw materials in cosmetics are unstable in structure and highly irritating. They are unable to reduce oxidation reactions and inhibit glycation reactions while preventing the generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin, resulting in poor whitening function. Summary of the invention

[0004] In order to solve or partially solve the problems existing in the related art, the present application provides a cosmetic having a whitening composition and a preparation method thereof, which can reduce the generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin while inhibiting the glycation reaction, reducing the final product of the glycation reaction, improving the whitening degree of the skin and having low irritation.

[0005] In a first aspect, the present application provides a cosmetic having a whitening composition, comprising a whitening composition containing a barley extract, an extract from the bark of an elm tree, bisabolol, and niacinamide.

[0006] In combination with the first aspect, in a possible implementation of the first aspect, the content of barley extract in the whitening composition is 0.01wt%-20wt%; and / or, the content of Ulmus pumila bark extract in the whitening composition is 0.01wt%-20wt%; and / or, the content of bisabolol in the whitening composition is 3wt%-10wt%; and / or, the content of niacinamide in the whitening composition is 50wt%-95wt%.

[0007] In combination with the first aspect, in a possible implementation of the first aspect, the mass percentages of barley extract, Ulmus glabra bark extract, bisabolol and niacinamide in the whitening composition are 2:2:1:10.

[0008] In combination with the first aspect, in a possible implementation of the first aspect, the content of the whitening composition in the cosmetic is ≤20 wt %.

[0009] In combination with the first aspect, in a possible implementation of the first aspect, it also includes one or more of an emollient, an emulsifier, a thickener, a humectant, a preservative and a fragrance.

[0010] In combination with the first aspect, in a possible implementation of the first aspect, the cosmetics having a whitening composition meet any one of the following conditions: the emollient includes one or more of glycerin, triethylhexanoin, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, shea butter, dimethicone, ethylhexyl cocoate and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate; the emulsifier includes one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, ceteareth-20 and polysorbate-20; the thickener includes one or more of sodium polyacrylate and acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; the humectant includes one or more of water and 1,3-propylene glycol; the preservative includes one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylhydroxamic acid, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

[0011] In combination with the first aspect, in a possible implementation of the first aspect, the cosmetic having the whitening composition is one or more of an emulsion, a cream, an essence, an aqueous solution, a gel or a spray.

[0012] The second aspect of the present application provides a method for preparing cosmetics having a whitening composition, comprising adding barley extract, elm bark extract, bisabolol and niacinamide to a solvent, mixing and stirring to obtain a whitening composition; and mixing the whitening composition with an emollient, an emulsifier, a thickener, a humectant, a preservative and a fragrance to obtain cosmetics.

[0013] The technical solution provided by this application may have the following beneficial effects:

[0014] The cosmetics with whitening composition of the present application and the preparation method thereof include a whitening composition, wherein the whitening composition contains barley extract, elm bark extract, bisabolol, and niacinamide, which can reduce the generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin while inhibiting glycation reaction, reducing the final product of glycation reaction, improving the whitening degree of the skin and having low irritation.

[0015] It should be understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the present application. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0016] The above and other objects, features and advantages of the present application will become more apparent by describing in more detail exemplary embodiments of the present application in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein the same reference numerals generally represent the same components in the exemplary embodiments of the present application.

[0017] Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the apparent chromaticity results shown in the examples of the present application;

[0018] Figure 2 Schematic diagram of the L* value detection result shown in the embodiment of the present application;

[0019] Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the melanin distribution detection result shown in the embodiment of the present application;

[0020] Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the in vitro percutaneous permeability shown in the examples of the present application;

[0021] Figure 5 It is a schematic diagram of the free radical (DPPH) scavenging rate difference analysis shown in the examples of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0022] The embodiments of the present application will be described in more detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Although the embodiments of the present application are shown in the accompanying drawings, it should be understood that the present application can be implemented in various forms and should not be limited by the embodiments described herein. On the contrary, these embodiments are provided to make the present application more thorough and complete, and to fully convey the scope of the present application to those skilled in the art.

[0023] The terms used in this application are only for the purpose of describing specific embodiments and are not intended to limit this application. The singular forms of "a", "a", "an" and "the" used in this application and the appended claims are also intended to include plural forms unless the context clearly indicates other meanings. It should also be understood that the term "and / or" used in this article refers to and includes any or all possible combinations of one or more associated listed items.

[0024] It should be understood that although the terms "first", "second", "third", etc. may be used in this application to describe various information, this information should not be limited to these terms. These terms are only used to distinguish the same type of information from each other. For example, without departing from the scope of this application, the first information may also be referred to as the second information, and similarly, the second information may also be referred to as the first information. Thus, the features defined as "first" and "second" may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of the features. In the description of this application, the meaning of "multiple" is two or more, unless otherwise clearly and specifically defined.

[0025] With the advent of the era of functional skin care and the improvement of consumers' scientific awareness, people's pursuit of whitening is no longer limited to the single dimension of "de-darkening". The whitening effect of overall uniform skin color, fair and translucent skin is highly praised by consumers, and the needs related to skin color such as "de-yellowing" and "brightening" have received more attention. Human skin color is mainly determined by the chromophores of melanin, hemoglobin, bilirubin and carotene, among which the content and dispersion of melanin are the most important influencing factors. Melanin is first synthesized in the melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, and then transported to the adjacent keratinocytes through slender dendrites. Finally, it will gradually transfer from the basal layer to the stratum corneum and fall off with the keratinocytes, which can protect the epidermis from harmful stimuli such as ultraviolet radiation. However, when melanin is synthesized excessively and unevenly distributed, it will cause the skin color to darken and pigment deposition, thus causing skin problems such as freckles and brown spots. In addition, factors such as advanced glycation end products (AGEs), ultraviolet rays, and oxygen free radicals promote melanin synthesis. On the other hand, the formation of AGEs will directly destroy the organized protein structure in the dermis or epidermis. Some AGEs are yellow or brown and fluorescent, which will directly cause the skin to turn yellow and dark. Oxidative stress will cause the skin to darken further. According to the above factors that affect skin color, in order to achieve a healthy, fair, even and translucent skin color, it is necessary to suppress blackness, remove yellowness and brighten the skin.

[0026] However, most of the whitening products on the market are still focused on preventing the generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin, a single dimension of "de-darkening". The various whitening raw materials on the market are currently limited in their application due to their unstable structure, strong irritation, and potential safety hazards. For example, resorcinol and its derivatives are good tyrosinase inhibitors that can effectively inhibit the generation of melanin, but they are highly irritating. The skin characteristics of Asians make their skin prone to yellowing and dullness. In addition, the stratum corneum is thin and immature, the skin barrier is poor and sensitive, and the tolerance to this type of highly irritating chemical ingredients is weak, which can easily cause skin redness, stinging and other phenomena.

[0027] In response to the above problems, the embodiments of the present application provide a cosmetic having a whitening composition and a preparation method thereof, which can reduce the production, transfer and metabolism of melanin while reducing excess free radicals in the skin, play an antioxidant role, improve dull skin, and inhibit glycation reactions, reduce the final products of glycation reactions, improve skin whitening and have low irritation.

[0028] The technical solution of the embodiments of the present application is described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0029] In one aspect of the present application, the present application proposes a cosmetic having a whitening composition, which contains a whitening composition, wherein the whitening composition contains a barley extract, an extract of the bark of an elm tree, bisabolol, and niacinamide.

[0030] In one possible embodiment, the content of the barley extract in the whitening composition is 0.01wt%-20wt%;

[0031] and / or, the content of the Ulmus pumila bark extract in the whitening composition is 0.01wt%-20wt%; and / or, the content of bisabolol in the whitening composition is 3wt%-10wt%; and / or, the content of niacinamide in the whitening composition is 50wt%-95wt%.

[0032] In this application, all the numbers disclosed herein are approximate values, regardless of whether the words "about" or "approximately" are used. The value of each number may vary by less than 10% or a reasonable difference considered by those skilled in the art, such as 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% or 5%.

[0033] In one possible embodiment, the mass percentages of barley extract, Elaeagnus glabra bark extract, bisabolol and niacinamide in the whitening composition are 2:2:1:10.

[0034] In a possible implementation, the content of the whitening composition in the cosmetic is ≤20 wt %.

[0035] In a possible implementation, the cosmetic further includes one or more of an emollient, an emulsifier, a thickener, a humectant, a preservative, and a fragrance.

[0036] In a possible embodiment, the cosmetic satisfies any one of the following conditions: the emollient includes one or more of glycerin, triethylhexanoin, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, shea butter, dimethicone, ethylhexyl cocoate and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate; the emulsifier includes one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, ceteareth-20 and polysorbate-20; the thickener includes one or more of sodium polyacrylate and acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; the humectant includes one or more of water and 1,3-propylene glycol; the preservative includes one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylhydroxamic acid, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

[0037] In a possible implementation, the cosmetic is one or more of an emulsion, a cream, an essence, an aqueous solution, a gel or a spray.

[0038] The cosmetics of the present application include a whitening composition, which contains barley extract, elm bark extract, bisabolol, and niacinamide. It can reduce the generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin, inhibit the glycation reaction, reduce the final product of the glycation reaction, improve the whitening of the skin and have low irritation.

[0039] In another aspect of the present application, the present application provides a whitening composition, which contains barley extract, Elaeagnus glabra bark extract, bisabolol, and niacinamide.

[0040] In another aspect of the present application, the present application proposes a method for preparing a cosmetic having a whitening composition, comprising adding a barley extract, an extract from the bark of an elm tree, bisabolol and niacinamide to a solvent, mixing and stirring to obtain a whitening composition;

[0041] The whitening composition is mixed with a moisturizer, an emulsifier, a thickener, a humectant, a preservative and an essence to obtain a cosmetic.

[0042] Specifically, thickeners and preservatives can be put into the water phase and heated to 80-85°C while stirring; moisturizers and emulsifiers can be put into the oil phase and heated to 80-85°C while stirring. The water phase starts a homogenizer to mix the oil phase. After the water phase and the oil phase are mixed, the temperature is lowered to 45-50°C, and moisturizers, flavors and whitening compositions are added and mixed evenly to obtain cosmetics.

[0043] The scheme of the present application is described below by specific examples. It should be noted that the following examples are only used to illustrate the present application and should not be considered as limiting the scope of the present application. If no specific technology or conditions are specified in the examples, the technology or conditions described in the literature in this area or the product instructions are used. The reagents or instruments used are not specified by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products that can be obtained commercially.

[0044] Example 1

[0045] Preparation of whitening composition:

[0046] Barley extract, Ulmus pumila bark extract, bisabolol and niacinamide are added to a solvent in a mass ratio of 2:2:1:10, and the mixture is mixed and stirred to obtain a whitening composition.

[0047] Preparation of cosmetics with whitening composition:

[0048] The mass ratio of the whitening composition, emollient, emulsifier, thickener, humectant, preservative and essence used is 6:8:3:0.3:9:1:0.3, and the balance is deionized water;

[0049] First, add the thickener and preservative to the water phase and mix, heat to 80°C while stirring, and keep it for 2 minutes. Add the emollient and emulsifier to the oil phase and mix, heat to 80°C while stirring, mix the water phase and the oil phase, and after cooling to 45°C, add the moisturizer, fragrance and whitening composition, mix well to obtain cosmetics.

[0050] Comparative Example 1

[0051] This comparative example provides a whitening composition and a cosmetic, and the preparation method thereof is substantially the same as that of Example 1, except that, in the preparation of the whitening composition, only phenethyl resorcinol (377) is added to the solvent to obtain the whitening composition.

[0052] Comparative Example 2

[0053] This comparative example provides a whitening composition and cosmetics, and the preparation method thereof is substantially the same as that of Example 1, except that, in the preparation of the whitening composition, only 5% niacinamide is added to the solvent to obtain the whitening composition.

[0054] Comparative Example 3

[0055] This comparative example provides a whitening composition and cosmetics, and the preparation method thereof is substantially the same as that of Example 1, except that, in the preparation of the whitening composition, only arbutin is added to the solvent to obtain the whitening composition.

[0056] Testing methods: Conduct in vitro whitening efficacy test, in vitro percutaneous penetration test, free radical (DPPH) scavenging test, in vitro non-enzymatic glycosylation inhibition test, human moisturizing, repairing and nourishing test, human safety and efficacy evaluation test, and freckle removal and whitening efficacy test on cosmetics.

[0057] 1. In vitro whitening efficacy test:

[0058] According to the 3D melanin skin model based on a-MSH stimulation The test was carried out according to the method for detecting the apparent chromaticity, apparent brightness (L* value) and melanin distribution of the sample embodiment 1 and the comparative examples 1-3. The test was divided into two parts: the first part was based on melanocytes to carry out cytotoxicity detection to determine the administration concentration of sample embodiment 1 and comparative examples 1-3 on melanocytes; the second part used a-MSH to stimulate the 3D melanin skin model (MelaKutis), and the whitening efficacy of the sample to be tested was evaluated by detecting the changes in the apparent chromaticity, apparent brightness (L* value) and melanin distribution after the sample embodiment 1 and comparative examples 1-3 were acted on.

[0059] The specific test steps are:

[0060] (1) Cell seeding: After the cells are thawed, when the plating rate reaches about 60%, the cells are seeded into a 96-well plate and incubated overnight in a CO2 incubator (37°C, 5% CO2).

[0061] (2) Experimental grouping: The experiment set up a blank control group, a negative control group, a positive control group and a sample group, and the sample group included Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. In the sample group, 8 concentration gradients were set for each sample, and 3 replicate wells were set under each concentration gradient.

[0062] (3) Solution preparation: Prepare sample working solutions of different concentrations according to the test concentration setting table (Table 1).

[0063] Table 1: Test concentration setting table

[0064]

[0065] (4) Administration: Administration was performed when the cell plating rate in the 96-well plate reached 50% to 60%. 200uL of culture medium was added to each well of the solvent control group; 200uL of culture medium containing 10% DMSO was added to each well of the positive control group; 200uL of culture medium containing the corresponding concentration of the sample to be tested was added to each well of the sample group; the zeroing group had no cell inoculation and only 200uL of cell culture medium was added. After administration, the 96-well plate was placed in a CO2 incubator (37°C, 5% CO2) and cultured for 72h.

[0066] (5) Detection: After the cells were incubated for 72 h, the supernatant was discarded, and MTT working solution (0.5 mg / mL) was added. The cells were incubated at 37°C in the dark for 4 h. After the incubation, the supernatant was discarded, 150 uL DMSO was added to each well, and the OD value was read at 490 nm.

[0067] (6) Calculation of relative cell viability: relative cell viability (%) = sample well OD - zero well OD / solvent control well OD - zero well OD

[0068] (7) Whitening efficacy test, the test groups are shown in Table 2.

[0069] Table 2: Test groups

[0070]

[0071] 8) Model reception: Prepare 6-well plates according to the test groups, add 3.7 mL of model culture medium to each well, and transfer the models on the day of model reception (Day 0) to the marked 6-well plates; each test group requires 6 models, and transfer all 6-well plates with models to a CO2 incubator (37°C, 5% CO2) for culture.

[0072] (9) Drug administration and stimulation: From the day the model was received (Day 0), the culture medium containing α-MSH was replaced every day for the negative control, positive control and sample groups, and the normal culture medium was replaced every day for the blank control group. The positive control group and the sample group were administered twice on Day 3 and Day 5, respectively, with the administration method being surface administration and the dosage being 2 mg / cm2. After the model was cultured for 7 consecutive days, the samples were collected for testing.

[0073] (10) Apparent colorimetric test: After the model is cultured, use a camera to take photos of the appearance. The specific standard operation of taking photos is as follows: 1) Camera mode: manual; Photo parameter settings: focal length = 5.8 mm, aperture = f / 8, aperture F22, shutter speed = 1 / 80s, ISO = 1600. 2) Place the model in the center of the colorimetric card and take photos.

[0074] (11) Apparent brightness (L* value) test: After the apparent colorimetric test, the model is tested for L* value. The specific test operation is as follows: Place the model on a flat, hard white surface with the cuticle facing upwards, align the colorimeter detection hole vertically with the model surface for testing, repeat the reading three times for each model, and take the average value as the L* value reading of the single model.

[0075] (12) Melanin distribution test: After the model culture was completed, three models from each test group were taken, fixed with 4% paraformaldehyde solution for 24 hours, embedded and sliced, and stained according to the instructions of the silver staining kit and photographed under a microscope.

[0076] (13) Calculation of promotion rate and inhibition rate:

[0077]

[0078]

[0079] Test Results

[0080] 1. The specific test results of the samples on melanocytes are shown in Table 3-1 (Example 1), Table 3-2 (Comparative Example 1), Table 3-3 (Comparative Example 2) and Table 3-4 (Comparative Example 3).

[0081] Table 3-1: MTT test results of whitening composition

[0082]

[0083] Table 3-2: MTT test results of sample 377

[0084]

[0085] Table 3-3: Sample 5% Nicotinamide MTT test results

[0086]

[0087] Table 3-4: Sample Arbutin MTT Test Results

[0088]

[0089] According to the MTT results, the whitening composition and sample 377, 5% niacinamide and arbutin did not show obvious cytotoxicity within the concentration range of 0.078125% (v / v).

[0090] 2. Apparent colorimetric results:

[0091] like Figure 1 As shown, the apparent chromaticity results of the blank control group (BC), negative control group (NC), positive control group (PC), and sample group, it can be seen that the apparent chromaticity of the NC group is significantly darker than that of the BC group, indicating that the stimulation conditions of this test are effective, and the apparent chromaticity of the PC group is significantly whiter than that of the NC group, indicating that the positive control of this test is effective. Compared with the NC group, the apparent chromaticity of the whitening composition is significantly whiter.

[0092] 3. Test results of apparent brightness (L* value)

[0093] The test results of apparent brightness (L* value) are shown in Table 4 below:

[0094] Table 4: Summary of L* value test results

[0095]

[0096] like Figure 2 The results of the L* value test are shown in the figure. Compared with the BC group, the L* value of the NC group decreased significantly, indicating that the stimulation conditions of this test were effective. Compared with the NC group, the L* value of the PC group increased significantly, indicating that the positive control of this test was effective. Compared with the NC group, the L* values ​​of the whitening composition, 377, 5% niacinamide, and arbutin increased significantly, with the increase rates of 6.29%, 3.55%, 2.63%, and 3.26%, respectively. The L* value increase rates of the whitening composition were 1.77 times, 2.39 times, and 1.93 times of the L* value increase rates of samples 377, 5% niacinamide, and arbutin, respectively.

[0097] 4. Sample melanin distribution test results

[0098] The test results of the sample melanin distribution are shown in Table 5 below:

[0099] Table 5: Summary of melanin distribution test results

[0100]

[0101] like Figure 3As shown in the figure, the melanin distribution test results of the sample group are as follows. It can be seen that compared with the BC group, the melanin particles in the NC group increased significantly, indicating that the stimulation conditions of this test were effective; compared with the NC group, the melanin particles in the PC group decreased significantly, indicating that the positive control of this test was effective. Compared with the NC group, the melanin particles of the whitening composition, 377, 5% niacinamide, and arbutin were significantly reduced, with inhibition rates of 71.07%, 60.17%, 22.85%, and 48.01%, respectively. The melanin particle inhibition rates of the whitening composition were 1.18 times, 3.11 times, and 1.48 times those of the samples 377, 5% niacinamide, and arbutin, respectively.

[0102] 2. In vitro percutaneous penetration test:

[0103] The specific experimental steps are as follows: wipe the thawed pig skin dry and fix it with an iron clip between the diffusion chamber and the receiving chamber of the Franz diffusion unit, where the stratum corneum faces the donor chamber, and record the diffusion area. Fill the receiving pool of the vertical diffusion pool with PBS and record the volume V. Preheat it in the thermostatic bath of the in vitro osmotic diffusion device at 37°C, and set the magnetic stirring speed of the receiving pool to 300r / min. Load the essence containing hydroxyproline into the tested instrument, adjust it to the maximum gear, and spray 2mL of essence into the supply pool after alignment. Add 2mL of essence containing hydroxyproline directly to the blank group. Seal the upper opening with plastic wrap and time it. When the sample penetrates for 4 and 8 hours, take 1mL of sample and place it in a centrifuge tube. At each sampling, add an equal amount of receiving solution to the receiving pool and remove the bubbles in the pool.

[0104] Test results such as Figure 4 As shown, it can be seen that the permeability of the composition after 8 hours of penetration is 5.80E-07, the permeability of the control sample (5% niacinamide) after 8 hours of penetration is 4.11E-07, the permeability of the tested sample (composition) is 1.41 times that of the control sample (5% niacinamide), and the permeability of the tested sample (composition) is 41% higher than that of the control sample (5% niacinamide).

[0105] 3. Free radical (DPPH) scavenging test:

[0106] According to the free radical damage theory, excessive production of free radicals is the main cause of natural skin aging and photoaging. Reducing the production of free radicals and removing aging metabolites have become effective methods for delaying skin aging. 1,1-Diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH for short) is a stable, long-lived free radical. Its ethanol solution is dark purple and has strong absorption near 517nm. When a free radical scavenger is present, the light absorption of the DPPH ethanol solution is weakened due to its single electron pairing. The degree of fading of the DPPH ethanol solution is linearly related to the number of electrons it accepts, which can be used to evaluate the ability of the sample to scavenge free radicals (DPPH), that is, the size of the antioxidant activity. This method is an in vitro free radical (DPPH) scavenging test method, which mainly characterizes the antioxidant efficacy by evaluating the scavenging rate of the sample to be tested for free radicals (DPPH), and is suitable for the efficacy evaluation of raw materials that claim to have the effect of scavenging free radicals (DPPH).

[0107] Specific detection steps

[0108] (1) The positive control and the sample to be tested (Example 2 provided by the present invention) are dissolved and diluted to a certain concentration with 95% ethanol or other suitable reagents. If the sample to be tested is water-soluble, it is dissolved and diluted with water.

[0109] (2) Referring to Table 6, use 10 mL test tubes to set up sample tubes (T), sample background (T0), DPPH tubes (C), and solvent background (C0). For each sample and each tested concentration, three parallel tubes should be set up for the sample tube (T), and three parallel tubes should also be set up for the DPPH tube (C).

[0110] (3) Add 1 mL of sample solution of the same concentration to the sample tube (T) and sample background (T0).

[0111] (4) Add solvent to all test tubes (T, T0, C, C0). For water-soluble samples, use water; for oil-soluble samples, use 95% ethanol. Add up to 3 mL and mix well.

[0112] (5) Add 1 mL of DPPH ethanol solution to the sample tube (T) and DPPH tube (C), replace the sample background (T0) and solvent background (C0) with 95% ethanol, shake gently, and let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes.

[0113] (6) Transfer each reaction solution into a 1 cm cuvette and measure the absorbance at 517 nm.

[0114] Table 6: Sample loading requirements

[0115] T-sample tube <![CDATA[T0 - Sample Background]]> C-DPPH tube <![CDATA[C0 - Solvent Background]]> Sample solution (mL) 1 1 - - Water or 95% ethanol solvent (mL) 2 2 3 3 DPPH ethanol solution (mL) 1 - 1 - 95% ethanol (mL) - 1 - 1 Parallel times 3 / Sample 1 / sample 3 / Sample 1 / sample

[0116] (7) Result calculation

[0117]

[0118] Where: T-sample tube absorbance, i.e., the absorbance of the solution after the sample reacts with DPPH;

[0119] T0-sample background absorbance;

[0120] The average value of the absorbance of the C-DPPH tube three times is the absorbance of the DPPH solution when no sample is added;

[0121] C0-solvent background absorbance.

[0122] (8) Result judgment: At the same test concentration, the greater the free radical (DPPH) scavenging rate, the stronger the ability of the sample to scavenge free radicals (DPPH); conversely, the weaker the ability. The specific test results are shown in Table 7.

[0123] Table 7: Free radical (DPPH) scavenging rate test results

[0124]

[0125] like Figure 5 As shown, it is a free radical (DPPH) scavenging rate difference analysis. It can be seen that when the concentration of the positive control group is 0.02 mg / mL, the free radical (DPPH) scavenging rate is ≥50%, indicating that the reaction system is effective; the IC50 of the positive control (the corresponding sample test concentration when the scavenging effect reaches 50%) is between 0.005 mg / mL and 0.05 mg / mL, indicating that the test system is effective; the standard deviation SD value of the scavenging rate between parallel tubes in each group is ≤3%, indicating that the parallelism of the test is effective; when the concentration of the sample group to be tested is 60 mg / mL, the free radical (DPPH) scavenging rate is about 26.20%±0..10%, which is statistically different from that of the negative control group (p<0.05), indicating that the cosmetics of Example 1 have the ability to scavenge free radical (DPPH) activity at this tested concentration.

[0126] 4. In vitro non-enzymatic glycosylation inhibition test:

[0127] One of the main characteristics of skin aging is yellowing of the skin and the appearance of age spots, the main causes of which are lipid peroxidation and non-

[0128] Enzymatic glycosylation reaction. Among them, non-enzymatic glycosylation (NEG) reaction in the body refers to

[0129] Under the condition of no enzyme catalysis, the aldehyde or ketone groups of reducing sugars cross-link or polymerize with free amino groups in macromolecules such as proteins.

[0130] The brown, fluorescent substance, Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs), is produced by

[0131] AGEs are brown or black macromolecules that appear in the dermis and epidermis.

[0132] Increased, AGEs will be deposited in human skin, causing yellowing of the skin, brown spots, and age spots. At the same time, the accumulated AGEs in the body cross-link adjacent macromolecules, especially collagen molecules, which reduces the permeability of connective tissue, weakens the diffusion of nutrients and waste, increases tissue hardness, and is difficult to be hydrolyzed by collagenase, resulting in decreased skin elasticity, wrinkles that are difficult to smooth and continue to deepen. The purpose of this test is to simulate the process of non-enzymatic glycosylation in vivo in vitro, test the ability of the test substance to inhibit the AGEs generation process, and evaluate the anti-glycation effect of the sample.

[0133] Specific experimental steps:

[0134] (1) Reagent preparation: 0.2 mol / L phosphate buffer (PBS, pH = 7.3-7.4): weigh 7.16 g Na2HPO4·12H2O and dissolve it in deionized water, add a certain amount of penicillin-streptomycin (antibacterial), and then dilute to 100 mL with deionized water to obtain a 0.2 mol / L Na2HPO4 solution; weigh 3.12 g Na2HPO4·2H2O and dissolve it in deionized water, dilute to 100 mL, and obtain a 0.2 mol / L Na2HPO4 solution; take 81 mL of 0.2 mol / L Na2HPO4 solution and 19 mL of 0.2 mol / L Na2HPO4 solution is mixed to obtain; bovine serum albumin solution (BSA solution): weigh a certain amount of BSA, add PBS to make up to 25mL, and filter with a 0.45μm water filter membrane; fructose solution: weigh a certain amount of fructose, add PBS to make up to 25mL; BSA-fructose reaction solution: mix 20mL BSA solution with 20mL fructose solution.

[0135] (2) Sample processing: dilute the sample to the appropriate concentration, vortex mix, centrifuge, and detect after passing through a membrane.

[0136] (3) Control group and preparation: Negative control: PBS is selected instead of the test substance and mixed with the reaction solution, which is the negative control group. The negative control group reflects the situation that there is no inhibitory effect on the non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction in the system; Positive control: A positive control group (1% Vc ethyl ether) known to inhibit non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction is set up for each test; Blank control: The test substance and the positive control can emit a certain amount of fluorescence, so a blank control group is set up, that is, the test substance (or positive control) is mixed with PBS, and no reaction solution is added.

[0137] (4) Sample testing:

[0138] Different test groups were prepared according to the ratios given in Table 8 and incubated in a 37° C. constant temperature incubator away from light; the fluorescence intensity (excitation wavelength: 370 nm, emission wavelength: 440 nm) was measured on the 5th day.

[0139] Table 8: Reaction system (mL)

[0140]

[0141] Note: In Table 1, “+” represents “added” and “-” represents “not added”.

[0142] (5) Sample testing:

[0143] The test judgment criteria are shown in Table 9.

[0144] Table 9: Judgment criteria

[0145]

[0146] Specific test results

[0147] (1) Test quality control standards and results

[0148] This experiment met the quality control standards and the results were acceptable.

[0149] Table 10: Test quality control standards and results

[0150]

[0151] (2) Test results

[0152] The inhibition rate (IR) calculation formula is as follows:

[0153] The calculation formula of inhibition rate (IR) is:

[0154]

[0155] RFU stands for Relative Fluorescence Unit

[0156] The test results are shown in Table 11 below:

[0157] Table 11: Non-enzymatic glycosylation inhibition results

[0158]

[0159] It can be seen from Table 11 that the non-enzymatic glycation inhibition rate of the cosmetic of Example 1 at a test concentration of 5.00% is 87%, indicating that the whitening body lotion has good non-enzymatic glycation inhibition ability at a test concentration of 5.00%.

[0160] 5. Human body moisturizing, repairing and nourishing test:

[0161] 1. Inspection basis: T / CAB 0152-2022 "Test methods for seven cosmetic effects: anti-wrinkle, firming, moisturizing, oil control, repairing, nourishing and soothing".

[0162] 2. Test environment:

[0163] The temperature was 21±1℃ and the relative humidity was 50±10%RH.

[0164] 3. Test materials:

[0165] 1) Test sample: the cosmetics of Example 1

[0166] 2) Testing instruments: VISIA-7 skin image analyzer, PIMIA image analysis system, skin colorimeter (CL 400), skin moisture tester ( CM 825), HQ-TEWL Transepidermal Moisture Tester

[0167] 4. Subjects

[0168] A total of 30 people were included, with 0 dropouts, 30 valid cases, 12 males and 18 females; the youngest age was 21 years old, the oldest was 43 years old, and the average age was 32.0 years old.

[0169] 5. Test steps:

[0170] 1) Screening: Recruit subjects as required and have them sign informed consent forms; ask subjects relevant questions according to the inclusion and exclusion criteria and record them together with the test screening results.

[0171] 2) Cleaning: Before the test begins, the research center needs to provide the subjects with a cleaning product that does not have any efficacy to clean the test area and dry it with a lint-free paper towel; each follow-up visit should keep the cleaning products and water temperature consistent.

[0172] 3) Testing: The initial skin value of the qualified subjects was evaluated and tested before product use, including instrument testing and standard image acquisition and data recording. The same test was performed again on the third day after product use. A total of 2 time points (D0 and D3) were tested.

[0173] 4) The moisture content of the skin stratum corneum is tested using a skin moisture tester ( The stratum corneum moisture content of the test site was tested by CM 825, and the test was performed three times to take the average value; the transepidermal water loss value was tested by HQ-TEWL transepidermal moisture tester, and the test was performed three times to take the average value; the skin roughness test was performed by PIMIA image analysis system to analyze the skin roughness of the test site images of the subjects collected by VISIA-7 skin image analyzer and record the data.

[0174] 5. Test area: body skin.

[0175] 6. Analysis of test results:

[0176] 1) Test results of moisture content of the stratum corneum of the tested area

[0177] Test results of moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin: After using the sample continuously for 3 hours, the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin of the subjects increased by 17.02% compared with the initial value. The measured value was significantly different from the initial value of D0 (p < 0.05), and the measured value was better than the initial value, as shown in Tables 12, 13 and 14 below.

[0178] Table 12: Descriptive statistical results of skin stratum corneum moisture content

[0179] Time Quantity N Mean Median Standard Deviation Minimum Maximum D0 30 26.32 27.05 6.47 17.03 35.58 D3 30 30.80 31.45 6.28 21.78 40.23

[0180] Table 13: Change rate of moisture content in the stratum corneum of the skin

[0181] Initial value D0 average value D3 average D3 rate of change 26.32±1.18 30.80±1.15 17.02％

[0182] Table 14: Results of differential analysis of moisture content in the stratum corneum of the skin

[0183]

[0184] 2) Test results of transepidermal water loss value of the tested parts

[0185] After using the sample continuously for 3 days / 72 hours, the transepidermal water loss of the subjects decreased by 12.17% compared with the initial value. The measured value was significantly different from the initial value on D0 (p < 0.05), and the measured value was better than the initial value, as shown in Tables 15, 16, and 17 below.

[0186] Table 15: Descriptive statistics of transepidermal water loss values

[0187] Time Quantity N Mean Median Standard Deviation Minimum Maximum D0 30 25.38 24.57 4.61 18.02 31.79 D3 30 22.29 21.49 4.46 15.48 29.22

[0188] Table 16: Transepidermal Water Loss Value Change Rate

[0189] Initial value D0 average value D3 average D3 rate of change 25.38±0.84 22.29±0.81 -12.17％

[0190] Table 17: Results of differential analysis of transepidermal water loss values

[0191]

[0192] 3) Test results of skin roughness of the tested area

[0193] After using the sample continuously for 3 days / 72 hours, the skin roughness of the subjects decreased by 15.39% compared with the initial value. The measured value was significantly different from the initial value on D0 (p < 0.05), and the measured value was better than the initial value, as shown in Tables 18, 19 and 20 below.

[0194] Table 18: Descriptive statistical results of skin roughness

[0195] Time Quantity N Mean Median Standard Deviation Minimum Maximum D0 30 25.53 26.00 3.87 19.00 32.00 D3 30 21.60 22.00 4.10 15.00 29.00

[0196] Table 19: Skin roughness change rate

[0197]

[0198]

[0199] Table 20: Analysis of skin roughness differences

[0200]

[0201] It can be seen that after using the cosmetic of Example 1, the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the test subject increased by 17.02% compared with the initial value, the transepidermal water loss value decreased by 12.17% compared with the initial value, and the skin roughness decreased by 15.39% compared with the initial value.

[0202] 6. Human safety and efficacy evaluation test:

[0203] 1. Materials and Methods

[0204] 1) Test substance: the cosmetic of Example 1.

[0205] 2) Negative control: blank control

[0206] 3) Subjects: A total of 30 subjects, including 5 males and 25 females, aged 21 to 60 years old, with an average age of 47.73 ± 10.51 years old, met the voluntary inclusion criteria.

[0207] 4) Patch test method: Select qualified patch test equipment and use the closed patch test method. Place 0.020mL~0.025mL of the test substance in the patch tester and apply low-allergenic tape to the curved side of the subject's forearm. Remove the test substance after 24 hours and observe the skin reaction at 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after removal. Record the results according to the skin reaction grading standards in the "Technical Specifications for Safety of Cosmetics" (2015 edition).

[0208] 2. Test results

[0209] The experimental results are shown in Table 21 below:

[0210] Table 21

[0211] Summary of cosmetic human skin patch test results

[0212]

[0213] 7. Freckle removal and whitening efficacy test

[0214] 1. Materials and Methods:

[0215] 1) Test substance: the cosmetic of Example 1.

[0216] 2) Negative control: blank control

[0217] 3) Positive control: 7% ascorbic acid (vitamin C) preparation.

[0218] 4) Subjects: A total of 30 subjects, including 7 males and 23 females, aged 19 to 57 years old, with an average age of 33.83 ± 9.06 years old, met the voluntary inclusion criteria.

[0219] 5) Test method: Test in accordance with the specific requirements of the "Technical Specifications for Safety of Cosmetics" (2015 edition). The back of the subject is selected as the test site. The area of ​​each blackening test area should be no less than 0.5cm2 and should be located in each coating area to determine the MED of the test site of the subject. Use a solar simulator to irradiate once a day at the same irradiation point at a dose of 0.75 times the MED for 4 consecutive days. The 4 days after the end of irradiation are the skin melanization period, and no treatment is performed. On the 5th day after the end of irradiation, the skin of each test area is visually evaluated and instrumentally tested for skin color, and test areas with poor consistency are eliminated. Starting from the 5th day, the corresponding test substance is applied to each blackening test area according to the random table, and the subjects are applied continuously for at least 4 weeks. The skin color should be visually evaluated and instrumentally tested 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks and 4 weeks after application, and recorded.

[0220] 2. Test results

[0221] As shown in Tables 22, 23, 24, 25, 26 and 27 below, after using the test product, the degree of improvement in the skin ITA° value of the test product group was significantly better than that of the negative control group at each follow-up time point (P<0.05), and the regression coefficient of the skin TTA° value of the test product group was significantly improved compared with that of the negative control group (P<0.05); after using the test product, the degree of improvement in the skin MI value of the test product group was significantly better than that of the negative control group at each follow-up time point (P<0.05), and the regression coefficient of the skin MI value of the test product group was significantly improved compared with that of the negative control group (P<0.05); after using the test product, the degree of improvement in the visual skin color grade of the test product group was significantly better than that of the negative control group at each follow-up time point (P<0.05), and the regression coefficient of the visual skin color grade of the test product group was significantly improved compared with that of the negative control group (P<0.05).

[0222] Table 22: ITA° statistical analysis results at different time points before and after product use

[0223]

[0224] Table 23: ITA° statistical analysis results of the test product area compared with the negative control area at each time point

[0225]

[0226] Table 24: MI statistical analysis results at different time points before and after product use

[0227]

[0228] Table 25: MI statistical analysis results of the test product area compared with the negative control area at each time point

[0229]

[0230] Table 26: Statistical analysis results of visual skin color grades at different time points before and after product use

[0231]

[0232] Table 27: Statistical analysis results of visual skin color ratings of the test product area and the negative control area at each time point

[0233]

[0234] In summary, from the in vitro whitening efficacy test, it can be seen that compared with Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3, the melanin particle inhibition rate of the cosmetics in Example 1 is 1.18 times that of Comparative Example 1, 3.11 times that of Comparative Example 2, and 1.48 times that of Comparative Example 3, respectively. Example 1 has a better whitening effect and can better reduce the generation, transfer and metabolism of melanin; from the in vitro non-enzymatic glycosylation inhibition test, it can be seen that the inhibition rate of the cosmetics in Example 1 is 87%, which is higher than 70% of the positive control group, and can well inhibit the saccharification reaction and improve the whitening effect; from the human safety and efficacy evaluation test, it can be seen that the cosmetics in Example 1 have no skin adverse reactions; from the human moisturizing, repairing and nourishing tests, it can be seen that the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the subjects using the cosmetics of Example 1 is increased by 17.02% compared with the initial value, the transepidermal water loss value is reduced by 12.17% compared with the initial value, and the skin roughness is reduced by 15.39% compared with the initial value. The cosmetics in Example 1 have good skin moisturizing function.

[0235] The embodiments of the present application have been described above, and the above description is exemplary, not exhaustive, and is not limited to the disclosed embodiments. Many modifications and changes will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art without departing from the scope and spirit of the described embodiments. The selection of terms used herein is intended to best explain the principles of the embodiments, practical applications, or improvements to the technology in the market, or to enable other persons of ordinary skill in the art to understand the embodiments disclosed herein.

Claims

1. A cosmetic having a whitening composition, characterized in that: The invention contains a whitening composition, wherein the whitening composition contains barley extract, elm bark extract, bisabolol and niacinamide.

2. A cosmetic having a whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The content of the barley extract in the whitening composition is 0.01wt%-20wt%; And / or, the content of the extract from the bark of Elaeagnus glabra in the whitening composition is 0.01wt%-20wt%; And / or, the content of bisabolol in the whitening composition is 3wt%-10wt%; And / or, the content of niacinamide in the whitening composition is 50wt%-95wt%.

3. A cosmetic having a whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The mass percentages of the barley extract, the elm bark extract, bisabolol and niacinamide in the whitening composition are 2:2:1:

10.

4. The cosmetic having a whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The content of the whitening composition in the cosmetic is ≤20 wt %.

5. The cosmetic having a whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: It also includes one or more of emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, humectants, preservatives and fragrances.

6. The cosmetic having a whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cosmetic meets any one of the following conditions: the emollient includes one or more of glycerin, triethylhexanoin, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, shea butter, dimethicone, ethylhexyl cocoate and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate; the emulsifier includes one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, ceteareth-20 and polysorbate-20; the thickener includes one or more of sodium polyacrylate and acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; the humectant includes one or more of water and 1,3-propylene glycol; the preservative includes one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylhydroxamic acid, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

7. The cosmetic having a whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The cosmetics are one or more of lotions, creams, essences, water solutions, gels or sprays.

8. A method for preparing a cosmetic having a whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that: include: Adding the barley extract, the elm bark extract, the bisabolol and the niacinamide into a solvent, mixing and stirring to obtain the whitening composition; The whitening composition is mixed with the emollient, emulsifier, thickener, moisturizer, preservative and essence to obtain the cosmetic.

9. The preparation method according to claim 8, characterized in that: The mass ratio of the whitening composition, moisturizer, emulsifier, thickener, humectant, preservative and essence is 6:8:3:0.3:9:1:0.3, and the balance is water.

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