Essence for maintaining skin barrier and moisturizing skin and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention provides a skin barrier maintaining, skin moistening and moisturizing essence and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The essence comprises composite polypeptide, a hyaluronic acid compound, a plant active extract, a humectant, an emollient, a thickening agent, a preservative and water. The plant active extract is composed of gloiopeltis furcata extract, maguey dark green extract, tussilago farfara extract and field mint extract. Wherein the composite polypeptide has the comprehensive effects of repairing a barrier, resisting aging, tightening skin, brightening skin color and preserving moisture for a long time through a multi-target synergistic effect; the plant active extract has the effects of moisturizing, repairing the physical barrier of the skin, resisting inflammation and relieving dryness and sensitivity. Experimental results show that the composite polypeptide and the plant active extract have a synergistic effect, and the essence obtained by compounding the composite polypeptide and the plant active extract has excellent skin barrier maintenance and skin moistening and moisturizing effects.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a skin barrier maintenance, moisturizing essence and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] In modern life, people's skin faces various challenges. Environmental pollution, ultraviolet radiation, climate change, and improper skin care methods can all lead to damaged skin barrier. Once the skin barrier is damaged, water loss increases, and the skin will become dry, rough, flaky, itchy, and other problems, seriously affecting the beauty and health of the skin. Currently, there are a large number of moisturizing products on the market that aim to solve the problem of dry and dehydrated skin. However, most products only focus on surface moisturizing, reducing water evaporation by forming a closed film on the skin surface, and their effects are often short-lived and limited. These products usually cannot fundamentally repair the damaged skin barrier and are difficult to meet consumers' needs for long-term and deep skin care. Some traditional moisturizing ingredients, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, can absorb and retain moisture to a certain extent, but they are not effective in improving the skin barrier function. Moreover, some products contain more chemical synthetic ingredients, which may irritate the skin and cause adverse reactions such as allergies, further increasing the burden on the skin. As people pay more and more attention to skin health, developing an essence product that can effectively maintain the skin barrier, achieve long-lasting moisturizing and is safe and gentle has become an urgent need in the skin care field. Summary of the invention

[0003] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a skin barrier maintenance, moisturizing essence and a preparation method thereof. The essence of the present invention has excellent skin barrier repair and moisturizing effects.

[0004] In order to achieve the above-mentioned object of the invention, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: The invention provides a composition for maintaining skin barrier and moisturizing the skin, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of composite polypeptide, 0.5-1 parts of hyaluronic acid complex and 5-10 parts of plant active extract; the plant active extract is composed of sea urchin extract, dark green agave extract, coltsfoot flower extract and field mint extract in a weight ratio of 3-7:2-5:1-3:0.1-0.2.

[0005] Preferably, the composite polypeptide is two or more of oligopeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, nonapeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.

[0006] Preferably, the hyaluronic acid complex is composed of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 10KDa-100KDa and hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 400KDa-500KDa in a weight ratio of 5-8:1-5.

[0007] Preferably, the preparation method of the seaweed extract comprises: crushing the seaweed, mixing with a sodium hydroxide solution, heating, centrifuging, taking the supernatant, concentrating and precipitating with alcohol to obtain the seaweed extract.

[0008] Preferably, the dark green agave extract is obtained by sequentially hydrolyzing with β-1,4-glucan-4-glucanohydrolase and serrapeptase.

[0009] Preferably, the coltsfoot flower extract is obtained by extraction with ethanol solution.

[0010] Preferably, the wild mint extract is prepared by supercritical CO 2 Extracted.

[0011] The present invention also provides the use of the composition in preparing skin barrier maintenance and skin moisturizing cosmetics.

[0012] The present invention also provides a skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence containing the above composition, which is composed of the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight: 5-15 parts of the composition, 1-5 parts of a moisturizer, 3-8 parts of an emollient, 0.1-0.5 parts of a thickener, 0.1-0.3 parts of a preservative and 100 parts of water.

[0013] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence, which is characterized by comprising: mixing a thickener with water and heating it, and mixing it with a moisturizer to obtain an aqueous phase; heating and dissolving the emollient to obtain an oil phase; adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase, adding the composition and a preservative to obtain the skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence.

[0014] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: The present invention provides a composition for skin barrier maintenance and skin moisturizing, comprising: a composite polypeptide, a hyaluronic acid complex and a plant active extract; the plant active extract is composed of a sea urchin extract, a dark green agave extract, a coltsfoot flower extract and a field mint extract. The composite polypeptide has the comprehensive effects of repairing the barrier, anti-aging and firming, brightening the skin tone and long-lasting moisturizing through multi-target synergistic action; the plant active extract has the effects of moisturizing, repairing the skin physical barrier, anti-inflammatory, and relieving dryness and sensitivity. The experimental results show that there is a synergistic effect between the composite polypeptide and the plant active extract, and the essence obtained by compounding the two has excellent skin barrier maintenance and skin moisturizing effects. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0015] The invention provides a composition for maintaining skin barrier and moisturizing the skin, comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of composite polypeptide, 0.5-1 parts of hyaluronic acid complex and 5-10 parts of plant active extract; the plant active extract is composed of sea hyaluronic acid extract, dark green agave extract, coltsfoot flower extract and wild mint extract in a weight ratio of 3-7:2-5:1-3:0.1-0.2.

[0016] The polypeptides in the composite polypeptide of the present invention are preferably two or more of oligopeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, nonapeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, more preferably composed of oligopeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, nonapeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 in a weight ratio of (0.5-1.5):(3-8):(1-3):(8-12), and the weight ratio is more preferably 1:5:2:10.

[0017] The oligopeptide-1 in the composite polypeptide of the present invention directly stimulates the proliferation of epidermal cells, accelerates the repair of damaged barriers (such as dryness, sensitivity, and micro-injury), and reduces transepidermal water loss. The tripeptide-1 copper activates the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (such as hyaluronic acid), enhances the support of the dermis, and indirectly consolidates the epidermal barrier structure to form an "inside-out" barrier protection network; palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 stimulates fibroblasts to secrete collagen, elastin, and fibronectin, improves skin elasticity and firmness, tripeptide-1 copper scavenges free radicals, inhibits the degradation of collagen by matrix metalloproteinases, and prolongs the anti-aging effect. Tripeptide-1 copper protects existing collagen, and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 promotes new collagen, double The anti-aging pathway delays wrinkles and sagging; Nonapeptide-1 blocks the binding of melanocyte-stimulating hormone to melanocyte receptors, inhibits tyrosinase activity from the source, reduces melanin production, and oligopeptide-1 + tripeptide-1 copper accelerates epidermal renewal (and reduces post-inflammatory pigmentation, assists in fading spots, and achieves a bright complexion from the three stages of "inhibiting production-accelerating metabolism-anti-inflammatory and anti-sinking"; Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 enhances the water storage capacity of the dermis, and oligopeptide-1 repairs the integrity of the stratum corneum, reduces water evaporation, improves short-term moisturizing effects, and covers multiple layers of skin moisturizing needs. The composite polypeptide of the present invention can achieve the four-in-one comprehensive effects of "barrier repair-anti-aging and firming-brightening skin tone-long-lasting moisturizing" through the synergistic effect of multiple targets.

[0018] The hyaluronic acid complex of the present invention is preferably composed of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 10KDa-100KDa and hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 400KDa-500KDa in a weight ratio of 5-8:1-5, more preferably 6:3. The hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 400KDa-500KDa of the present invention can instantly improve the moisture content of the skin, and the hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 10KDa-100KDa penetrates into the deep layers of the epidermis (spinous layer, basal layer), enhances the dermis-epidermis water exchange, and is compounded with the composite polypeptide to realize a multi-dimensional moisturizing system of "surface water locking-middle layer penetration-deep layer repair".

[0019] The preparation method of the sea radish extract of the present invention preferably includes: crushing the sea radish, mixing and heating with a sodium hydroxide solution, centrifuging, taking the supernatant, concentrating and precipitating with alcohol, and precipitating as the sea radish extract. The concentration of the sodium hydroxide is preferably 0.8%-1.5%, more preferably 1%, and the mass volume ratio of the sea radish to the sodium hydroxide solution is preferably 1:20-30g / mL, more preferably 1:25g / mL; preferably including ultrasonic treatment before heating, the frequency is preferably 20-40kHz, more preferably 30kHz, the time is preferably 30-40min, more preferably 35min; the heating temperature is preferably 85-95℃, more preferably 90℃, and the time is preferably 40-60min, more preferably 50min. The sea radish extract obtained by the preparation method of the present invention can enhance the skin's ability to lock water, relieve dryness, and has the effects of deep moisturizing and barrier repair.

[0020] The dark green agave extract of the present invention is obtained by enzymolysis of β-1,4-glucan-4-glucanohydrolase and serrapeptase in sequence. The preparation method of the dark green agave extract preferably includes: drying and crushing the dark green agave leaves, mixing with deionized water, adding β-1,4-glucan-4-glucanohydrolase for enzymolysis, inactivating the enzyme, adding serrapeptase for enzymolysis, inactivating the enzyme, filtering, concentrating and drying the filtrate to obtain the dark green agave extract. The enzymatic activity of the β-1,4-glucan-4-glucanohydrolase is preferably 200,000-300,000 U / g, more preferably 250,000 U / g, the addition amount is preferably 2%-5% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves, more preferably 3%, the enzymolysis temperature is preferably 33-37°C, more preferably 35°C, the pH value is preferably 4.5-5.5, more preferably 5, and the time is preferably 30-40min, more preferably 35min. The serrapeptase activity is preferably 150,000-250,000 U / g, more preferably 200,000 U / g, the addition amount is preferably 1%-3% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves, more preferably 2%, the enzymatic hydrolysis temperature is preferably 45-55°C, more preferably 50°C, the pH value is preferably 6.5-7.5, more preferably 7, and the time is preferably 30-60min, more preferably 40min. The dark green agave extract prepared by the present invention is rich in natural moisturizing factors (such as polysaccharides and amino acids), can inhibit the decomposition of hyaluronic acid, enhance the water content of the stratum corneum, lock in moisture for a long time and repair the skin barrier, and has soothing, anti-allergic, antibacterial, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, astringent and oil-control effects.

[0021] The coltsfoot flower extract of the present invention is obtained by extraction with an ethanol solution. The preparation method of the coltsfoot flower extract is preferably: the coltsfoot flower is dried and crushed, mixed with a 50%-60% (v / v) ethanol solution, extracted at 60-70°C for 40-50min, filtered, and the filtrate is decompressed and concentrated, and dried to obtain the coltsfoot flower extract. A more preferred preparation method is: the coltsfoot flower is dried and crushed, mixed with a 55% (v / v) ethanol solution, extracted at 65°C for 45min, filtered, and the filtrate is decompressed and concentrated, and dried to obtain the coltsfoot flower extract. The coltsfoot flower extract obtained by the preparation method of the present invention has the effects of soothing, moisturizing, nourishing, astringing pores, and anti-aging.

[0022] The wild mint extract of the present invention is prepared by supercritical CO 2 The method for preparing the field mint extract preferably comprises: drying and crushing the field mint, and heating the mint under 15-20 MPa, 50-65°C, CO 2 The supercritical extraction is carried out for 1-2 hours under the condition of flow rate of 25-40 kg / h, and the extract is collected to obtain the field mint extract. A more preferred preparation method is: after the field mint is dried and crushed, it is heated at 18 MPa, 55°C, CO 2 Supercritical extraction was performed for 1.5 hours under a flow rate of 30 kg / h, and the extract was collected to obtain a field mint extract. The field mint extract prepared by the method of the present invention not only has the effects of shrinking pores, soothing and calming, and anti-inflammatory, but also can change the permeability of the skin and promote the transdermal absorption of other components, thereby better playing the role of skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing.

[0023] The sea hyacinth extract and the dark green agave extract in the plant active extracts of the present invention can enhance the density of the stratum corneum, promote the expression of FLG / LOR proteins and repair the physical barrier; the sea hyacinth extract and the dark green agave extract form a bionic moisturizing layer, combined with the anti-inflammatory effect of the coltsfoot flower extract, relieve dryness and sensitivity and reduce transepidermal water loss; the oil-controlling and astringent properties of the wild mint extract and the water-oil balancing ability of the dark green agave extract work synergistically to solve the barrier fragility problem of combination skin / oily skin.

[0024] The present invention also provides the use of the composition in preparing skin barrier maintenance and skin moisturizing cosmetics.

[0025] The present invention also provides a skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence containing the above composition, which is composed of the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight: 5-15 parts of the composition, 1-5 parts of a moisturizer, 3-8 parts of an emollient, 0.1-0.5 parts of a thickener, 0.1-0.3 parts of a preservative and 100 parts of water.

[0026] The moisturizer of the present invention is preferably one or more of PEG / PPG-14 / 7 dimethyl ether, glyceryl glucoside and sodium 1,2-hexanediol; the emollient is preferably one or more of squalane, isononyl isononanoate and phenyl trimethicone; the thickener is preferably one or more of carbomer, dehydrogenated xanthan gum and sclerotium gum; the preservative is preferably one or more of phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin and salicylic acid.

[0027] The present invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence, comprising: mixing a thickener with deionized water and heating it, and mixing it with a moisturizer to obtain an aqueous phase; heating and dissolving the moisturizer to obtain an oil phase; adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase, adding the composition and a preservative to obtain the skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence.

[0028] The method of using the skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence of the present invention is: after cleansing, take 2-3 drops of essence, pour it on the palm of your hand, rub it with the temperature of your palm to warm it, and evenly apply it on the face, avoiding the skin around the eyes, and gently massage until absorbed, once in the morning and evening every day.

[0029] In the present invention, unless otherwise specified, all raw material components are commercially available products well known to those skilled in the art.

[0030] The technical solutions in the present invention will be described clearly and completely below in conjunction with the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of them. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without creative work are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0031] In the following embodiments, unless otherwise specified, all of them are conventional methods.

[0032] Unless otherwise specified, the materials and reagents used in the following examples can be obtained from commercial sources.

[0033] Example 1 Composition for skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing (1) Preparation of plant active extracts The seaweed was dried and crushed, passed through a 150-mesh sieve, mixed with 25 times the weight of a 1% (w / w) sodium hydroxide solution, subjected to ultrasonic treatment at 30 kHz for 35 minutes, heated and stirred at 60° C. for 50 minutes, centrifuged, the supernatant was collected, concentrated, precipitated with anhydrous ethanol, and the precipitate was vacuum dried to a water content of 3wt% to obtain a seaweed extract; The dark green agave leaves are dried, crushed and passed through a 400 mesh sieve, mixed with 10 times the weight of deionized water, and β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is added to perform enzymatic hydrolysis for 35 minutes at 35°C and pH 5 to inactivate the enzyme, and serrapeptase is added to perform enzymatic hydrolysis for 40 minutes at 50°C and pH 7 to inactivate the enzyme, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated and vacuum dried to a water content of 4wt% to obtain a dark green agave extract; wherein the enzymatic activity of β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is 250,000 U / g, and the amount added is 3% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves; the enzymatic activity of serrapeptase is 200,000 U / g, and the amount added is 2% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves; The coltsfoot flower was dried and crushed, passed through a 200-mesh sieve, mixed with 8 times the weight of a 55% (v / v) ethanol solution, stirred and extracted at 65° C. and 200 rpm for 45 min, filtered, the filtrate was concentrated, and vacuum dried to a water content of 1 wt % to obtain a coltsfoot flower extract; The field mint was dried and crushed through a 80-mesh sieve and sieved under 18 MPa, 55°C, CO 2 Supercritical extraction was performed for 1.5 h under a flow rate of 30 kg / h, and the extract was collected to obtain the field mint extract; The sea urchin extract, dark green agave extract, coltsfoot flower extract and wild mint extract are mixed in a weight ratio of 5:3:2:0.15 to obtain a plant active extract; (2) Compositions for skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing 2 parts by weight of the composite polypeptide, 0.8 parts by weight of the hyaluronic acid complex and 8 parts by weight of the plant active extract are mixed to obtain a composition for skin barrier maintenance and skin moisturizing; The composite polypeptide is composed of oligopeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, nonapeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 in a weight ratio of 1:5:2:10; the hyaluronic acid complex is composed of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 60KDa and hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 450KDa in a weight ratio of 6:3.

[0034] Example 2 Composition for skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing (1) Preparation of plant active extracts The seaweed was dried and crushed, passed through a 100-mesh sieve, mixed with 20 times the weight of a 0.8% (w / w) sodium hydroxide solution, subjected to ultrasonic treatment at 20 kHz for 40 minutes, heated and stirred at 55° C. for 60 minutes, centrifuged, the supernatant was collected, concentrated, precipitated with anhydrous ethanol, and the precipitate was vacuum dried to a water content of 4wt% to obtain a seaweed extract; The dark green agave leaves are dried, crushed and passed through a 300 mesh sieve, mixed with 8 times the weight of deionized water, and β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is added to hydrolyze for 40 minutes at 33°C and pH 4.5 to inactivate the enzyme, and serrapeptase is added to hydrolyze for 30 minutes at 45°C and pH 6.5 to inactivate the enzyme, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated and vacuum dried to a water content of 3% by weight to obtain a dark green agave extract; wherein the enzymatic activity of β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is 200,000 U / g, and the amount added is 5% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves; the enzymatic activity of serrapeptase is 150,000 U / g, and the amount added is 3% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves; The coltsfoot flower was dried and crushed to pass through a 150-mesh sieve, mixed with 5 times the weight of a 50% (v / v) ethanol solution, stirred and extracted at 70° C. and 150 rpm for 40 min, filtered, the filtrate was concentrated, and vacuum dried to a water content of 3 wt % to obtain a coltsfoot flower extract; The field mint was dried and crushed through a 50-mesh sieve and sieved under 15 MPa, 65°C, CO 2 Supercritical extraction was performed for 1 hour under a flow rate of 25 kg / h, and the extract was collected to obtain the field mint extract; The seaweed extract, the dark green agave extract, the coltsfoot flower extract and the wild mint extract are mixed in a weight ratio of 3:2:1:0.1 to obtain a plant active extract; (2) Compositions for skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing 1 part by weight of the composite polypeptide, 0.5 part by weight of the hyaluronic acid complex and 5 parts by weight of the plant active extract are mixed to obtain a composition for skin barrier maintenance and skin moisturizing; The composite polypeptide is composed of oligopeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, nonapeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 in a weight ratio of 0.5:3:1:8; the hyaluronic acid complex is composed of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 10KDa and hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 400KDa in a weight ratio of 5:1.

[0035] Example 3 Composition for skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing (1) Preparation of plant active extracts The seaweed was dried and crushed, passed through a 200-mesh sieve, mixed with 30 times the weight of a 1.5% (w / w) sodium hydroxide solution, subjected to ultrasonic treatment at 40 kHz for 30 minutes, heated and stirred at 75° C. for 40 minutes, centrifuged, the supernatant was collected, concentrated, precipitated with anhydrous ethanol, and the precipitate was vacuum dried to a water content of 5wt%, thereby obtaining a seaweed extract; The dark green agave leaves are dried, crushed and passed through a 500 mesh sieve, mixed with 12 times the weight of deionized water, and β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is added to hydrolyze for 30 minutes at 37°C and pH 5.5 to inactivate the enzyme, and serrapeptase is added to hydrolyze for 20 minutes at 55°C and pH 7.5 to inactivate the enzyme, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated and vacuum dried to a water content of 3wt% to obtain a dark green agave extract; wherein the enzymatic activity of β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is 300,000 U / g, and the amount added is 2% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves; the enzymatic activity of serrapeptase is 250,000 U / g, and the amount added is 1% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves; The coltsfoot flower was dried and crushed, passed through a 200-mesh sieve, mixed with 10 times the weight of a 60% (v / v) ethanol solution, stirred and extracted at 60° C. and 250 rpm for 50 min, filtered, the filtrate was concentrated, and vacuum dried to a water content of 2wt%, to obtain a coltsfoot flower extract; The field mint was dried and crushed through a 100-mesh sieve and sieved under 20 MPa, 50 °C, CO 2 Supercritical extraction was performed for 2 h under a flow rate of 40 kg / h, and the extract was collected to obtain the field mint extract; The sea urchin extract, the dark green agave extract, the coltsfoot flower extract and the wild mint extract are mixed in a weight ratio of 7:5:3:0.2 to obtain a plant active extract; (2) Compositions for skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing Mixing 3 parts by weight of the composite polypeptide, 1 part by weight of the hyaluronic acid complex and 10 parts by weight of the plant active extract to obtain a composition for skin barrier maintenance and skin moisturizing; The composite polypeptide is composed of oligopeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, nonapeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 in a weight ratio of 1.5:8:3:12; the hyaluronic acid complex is composed of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100KDa and hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 500KDa in a weight ratio of 8:5.

[0036] Example 4 Skin barrier maintenance, moisturizing essence Weigh 10 parts by weight of the composition of Example 1, 3 parts by weight of glyceryl glucoside, 5 parts by weight of squalane, 0.3 parts by weight of carbomer, 0.2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol and deionized water to make up to 100 parts by weight; Carbomer was mixed with deionized water, heated and dissolved at 73°C and 350 rpm, glyceryl glucoside was added and mixed, and stirred at 350 rpm for 15 min to obtain an aqueous phase; squalane was heated and dissolved at 70°C to obtain an oil phase; the oil phase was added to the aqueous phase, stirred at 2000 rpm for 20 min, the composition and phenoxyethanol were added, the pH value was adjusted to 6, stirred at 3000 rpm for 25 min, vacuum degassed and sterilized to obtain a skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence.

[0037] Example 5 Skin barrier maintenance, moisturizing essence Weigh 5 parts by weight of the composition of Example 2, 5 parts by weight of PEG / PPG-14 / 7 dimethyl ether, 3 parts by weight of isononyl isononanoate, 0.5 parts by weight of sclerotium gum, 0.1 parts by weight of salicylic acid and make up to 100 parts with deionized water; The sclerotium gum was mixed with deionized water, heated and dissolved at 70°C and 300rpm, and then mixed with PEG / PPG-14 / 7 dimethyl ether, and stirred at 300rpm for 20min to obtain an aqueous phase; isononyl isononanoate (oil phase) was added to the aqueous phase, stirred at 1500rpm for 25min, and then the composition and salicylic acid were added, the pH value was adjusted to 5.8, stirred at 2500rpm for 30min, vacuum degassed and sterilized to obtain a skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence.

[0038] Example 6 Skin barrier maintenance, moisturizing essence Weigh 15 parts by weight of the composition of Example 3, 1 part by weight of sodium 1,2-hexanediol, 3 parts by weight of phenyl trimethicone, 0.1 parts by weight of dehydrogenated xanthan gum, 0.3 parts by weight of chlorphenesin, and make up to 100 parts by weight with deionized water; Dehydroxanthan gum was mixed with deionized water, heated and dissolved at 75°C and 400rpm, 1,2-hexanediol sodium was added and mixed, and stirred at 400rpm for 15min to obtain an aqueous phase; phenyl trimethicone (oil phase) was added to the aqueous phase, stirred at 2500rpm for 15min, and then the composition and chlorphenesin were added, the pH value was adjusted to 7.2, stirred at 3500rpm for 20min, vacuum degassed and sterilized to obtain a skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence.

[0039] Comparative Example 1 The difference from Example 1 is that the preparation method of the dark green agave extract is as follows: the dark green agave leaves are dried, crushed through a 400-mesh sieve, mixed with 10 times the weight of deionized water, and semi-β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is added for enzymatic hydrolysis at 45°C and pH 5.5 for 35 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, and papain is added for enzymatic hydrolysis at 55°C and pH 6.5 for 40 minutes to inactivate the enzyme, filtered, and the filtrate is concentrated and vacuum dried to a water content of 4wt% to obtain a dark green agave extract; wherein the enzymatic activity of the semi-β-1,4-glucan-4-glucan hydrolase is 250,000 U / g, and the amount added is 3% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves; the enzymatic activity of the papain is 200,000 U / g, and the amount added is 2% of the weight of the dark green agave leaves.

[0040] Comparative Example 2 The difference from Example 1 is that "2 parts by weight of composite polypeptide, 0.8 parts by weight of hyaluronic acid complex and 8 parts by weight of plant active extract" is replaced by "0.8 parts by weight of hyaluronic acid complex and 10 parts by weight of plant active extract".

[0041] Comparative Example 3 The difference from Example 1 is that "2 parts by weight of composite polypeptide, 0.8 parts by weight of hyaluronic acid complex and 8 parts by weight of plant active extract" is replaced by "10 parts by weight of composite polypeptide and 0.8 parts by weight of hyaluronic acid complex".

[0042] Comparative Example 4 The difference from Example 4 is that the composition of Example 1 is replaced by the composition of Comparative Example 1.

[0043] Comparative Example 5 The difference from Example 4 is that the composition of Example 1 is replaced by the composition of Comparative Example 2.

[0044] Comparative Example 6 The difference from Example 4 is that the composition of Example 1 is replaced by the composition of Comparative Example 3.

[0045] Test Example 1 Cell scratch assay The compositions of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were respectively diluted with DMEM culture medium to prepare dispersions with a concentration of 1% (w / w).

[0046] HaCat cells (MlBio / ELISA) in the logarithmic growth phase were digested, resuspended and counted, and 6×10 5 Cells / well culture (37°C, 5% CO 2, 24h), respectively set up a blank group, Example 1-3 group, and Comparative Example 1-3 group. After the cells are 100% fused, use the gun tip to touch the slide, as close as possible to the horizontal scratch on the back, and the gun tip should be vertical and not tilted. After the scratch, wash the cells 3 times with PBS, remove the scratched cells, and add DMEM culture medium (blank group), 1% (w / w) dispersion of the composition of Example 1-3 and Comparative Example 1-3. Place in 37°C, 5% CO 2 Incubator, sample and take photos after 24 hours of culture, and calculate the repair rate, which is [1-(scratch area after 24 hours of culture / initial scratch area)]×100%. The specific results are shown in Table 1.

[0047] Table 1 Skin barrier repair rate in each group

[0048] From the data in Table 1, it can be seen that the skin barrier repair rate of the compositions of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 is significantly improved compared with the blank group, and the skin barrier repair rate of Examples 1-3 is higher than that of Comparative Examples 1-3. From the comparison of the data of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that the skin barrier repair effect of the compositions obtained by enzymolysis of dark green agave extracts by different enzymes is different. From the comparison of the data of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2-3, it can be seen that the composite polypeptide and the plant active extract can significantly improve the skin barrier repair effect after compounding.

[0049] Test Example 2 Skin barrier maintenance, skin feel and moisturizing tests 60 female volunteers aged 30-45 with sensitive skin were selected and randomly divided into 6 groups. There were no significant differences in age, skin condition, etc. among the groups, so relevant assessments could be conducted.

[0050] After cleansing, take 3 drops of the essence of Example 4-6 and Comparative Example 4-6 respectively, pour them into the palm of your hand, rub them with the temperature of your palm to warm them, and evenly apply them on the face, avoiding the skin around the eyes, and gently massage until absorbed, once in the morning and evening.

[0051] After 30 days of continuous use, the skin barrier improvement and skin feel were evaluated, and the skin water retention rate was measured. The specific results are shown in Table 2.

[0052] The scoring criteria for skin barrier improvement are: particularly obvious improvement in skin barrier, 5 points; obvious improvement in skin barrier, 4 points; not obvious improvement in skin barrier, 3 points; no improvement in skin barrier, 2 points; sensitization phenomenon, 1 point.

[0053] The skin feel scoring standard is: very comfortable, refreshing and moisturizing without stickiness, and no rubbing of mud, 5 points; relatively comfortable, no stickiness, moisturizing with oily feeling, and no rubbing of mud, 4 points; fairly comfortable, relatively moisturizing, and basically no rubbing of mud, 3 points; not too comfortable, sticky feeling or basically no moisturizing feeling, with floating oil feeling, and occasional rubbing of mud, 2 points; very uncomfortable, sticky, floating oil, not well absorbed, and rubbing of mud, 1 point.

[0054] The method for measuring the skin's moisture retention rate is as follows: after using the essence and waiting for the facial moisture to dry naturally, use a skin tester to measure the facial skin moisture content A at room temperature of 25°C and humidity of 60%. Sit still in the room for 1 hour, and then measure the facial skin moisture content B again under the same conditions to calculate the moisture retention rate. Moisture retention rate (%) = B ÷ A × 100%.

[0055] Table 2 Skin barrier improvement and skin feel scores of each group

[0056] From the data in Table 2, it can be seen that the essences of Examples 4-6 have better effects on improving skin barrier, skin feel and moisturizing than those of Comparative Examples 4-6. From the data in Example 4 and Comparative Example 4, it can be seen that the essences obtained by compounding dark green agave extracts obtained by enzymolysis with different enzymes have different effects on improving skin barrier, skin feel and moisturizing. From the data in Example 4 and Comparative Examples 5-6, it can be seen that the composite polypeptides and plant active extracts of the present invention have synergistic effects in improving skin barrier, skin feel and moisturizing.

[0057] The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention. It should be pointed out that for ordinary technicians in this technical field, several improvements and modifications can be made without departing from the principle of the present invention. These improvements and modifications should also be regarded as the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A composition for skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing, characterized in that: The method comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of composite polypeptide, 0.5-1 parts of hyaluronic acid complex and 5-10 parts of plant active extract; The plant active extract is composed of seaweed extract, dark green agave extract, coltsfoot flower extract and field mint extract in a weight ratio of 3-7:2-5:1-3:0.1-0.

2.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The composite polypeptide is two or more of oligopeptide-1, tripeptide-1 copper, nonapeptide-1 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The hyaluronic acid complex is composed of hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 10KDa-100KDa and hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 400KDa-500KDa in a weight ratio of 5-8:1-5.

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The preparation method of the seaweed extract comprises the following steps: crushing the seaweed, mixing with a sodium hydroxide solution, heating, centrifuging, taking the supernatant, concentrating and precipitating with alcohol, and obtaining the seaweed extract.

5. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The dark green agave extract is obtained by enzymolysis by β-1,4-glucan-4-glucanohydrolase and serrapeptase in sequence.

6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The coltsfoot flower extract is obtained by extraction with an ethanol solution.

7. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The wild mint extract is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction.

8. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in the preparation of skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing cosmetics.

9. A skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence containing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that: The invention is composed of the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight: 5-15 parts of the composition, 1-5 parts of the moisturizing agent, 3-8 parts of the emollient, 0.1-0.5 parts of the thickener, 0.1-0.3 parts of the preservative and water (making up to 100 parts).

10. The method for preparing the skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence according to claim 9, characterized in that: include: The thickener is mixed with water and heated, and then mixed with a moisturizer to obtain a water phase; the emollient is heated and dissolved to obtain an oil phase; The oil phase is added to the water phase, and a composition and a preservative are added to obtain a skin barrier maintenance and moisturizing essence.

Images