Pore astringing composition containing phellinus igniarius as well as preparation method and application of pore astringing composition

Abstract

The invention discloses a pore astringing composition containing phellinus igniarius as well as a preparation method and application of the pore astringing composition, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The pore astringing composition provided by the invention is prepared from the following components in parts by mass: 0.01 to 2 parts of radix gentianae extract, 0.1 to 10 parts of barley flour, 0.1 to 10 parts of phellinus linteus extract, 0.01 to 5 parts of trifolium pretense flower extract and 0.01 to 5 parts of flaxseed extract. The components with proper mass parts are selected, and the components are mutually cooperated, so that sebum secretion can be effectively regulated, peripilus cutin metabolism can be promoted, collagen regeneration can be promoted, and pores can be effectively refined, grease secretion can be reduced, and skin barrier can be improved when the composition is applied to a human body; the obtained pore smoothing effect, the effect of reducing grease secretion and the effect of improving the skin barrier are lasting, and the long-acting pore smoothing effect is achieved; in addition, the pore astringing composition provided by the invention is mild and non-irritant, and is suitable for people with sensitive skin.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a pore astringent composition containing medicinal pore fungi, and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Large pores are a common skin problem for modern people, especially for oily and combination skin. With the influence of factors such as aging, environmental pollution, and life pressure, pores gradually expand, and the firmness and smoothness of the skin decrease. The main reason for this phenomenon is closely related to factors such as excessive sebum secretion, accumulation of keratin in pores, loss of collagen, and decreased skin elasticity. Especially when sebum secretion is excessive, sebum will accumulate in the pores, which can easily lead to pore expansion and blockage, and then cause inflammation and blackheads.

[0003] Existing technologies and products for enlarged pores mostly focus on achieving astringent or exfoliating effects through chemical ingredients. Many products use formulas containing acid ingredients (such as salicylic acid, fruit acid, etc.). Although such products are effective, long-term use may cause damage to the skin barrier or cause allergies, especially for people with sensitive skin. In addition, some products temporarily shrink pores through a single physical astringent ingredient (such as alcohol or certain astringents), but the effect is not long-lasting and will cause certain irritation to the skin. Therefore, it is an urgent need in the current skin care field to develop a pore astringent composition that is gentle and can regulate skin function in many aspects, which can effectively refine pores without irritating the skin. Summary of the invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the above-mentioned prior art and provide a pore astringent composition containing medicinal pore fungi, which can effectively regulate sebum secretion, promote keratin metabolism around hair and promote collagen regeneration, and when applied to the human body, can effectively refine pores, reduce oil secretion, and enhance skin barrier ability, as well as its preparation method and application.

[0005] To achieve the above object, in a first aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a pore astringent composition, the pore astringent composition comprising the following components in parts by weight:

[0006] 0.01-2 parts of gentian root extract, 0.1-10 parts of barley flour, 0.1-10 parts of medicinal porphyra extract, 0.01-5 parts of red clover flower extract, and 0.01-5 parts of flaxseed extract.

[0007] The present invention selects components in appropriate mass parts, and the components cooperate with each other to effectively regulate sebum secretion, promote keratin metabolism around hair and promote collagen regeneration. When applied to the human body, it can effectively refine pores, reduce oil secretion and improve the skin barrier. The obtained effects of refining pores, reducing oil secretion and improving skin barrier are relatively long-lasting, that is, it has the effect of long-lasting refining pores. In addition, the pore astringent composition provided by the present invention is mild and non-irritating, and is suitable for people with sensitive skin.

[0008] Specifically, gentian root extract is rich in gentiopicroside, has a significant instant astringent effect, can quickly shrink skin pores, and can effectively relieve the skin's inflammatory response, avoiding the problem of enlarged pores caused by inflammation. Barley flour is rich in natural polysaccharides, which can absorb excess oil and dirt on the skin surface through physical adsorption, help clean pores, keep the skin fresh, and avoid pore clogging. Medicinal phyllotoxin extract contains rich triterpenes and polysaccharides, which can effectively regulate sebum secretion, help balance the water and oil state of the skin, thereby reducing pore dilation caused by excessive oil, and it also has a repairing effect and can repair damaged skin barriers. Red clover flower extract is rich in natural plant polyphenols, which can promote the metabolism of keratin around the hair, help remove dead skin cells, avoid keratin accumulation and pore clogging, and make the skin smoother and more delicate. Flaxseed extract is rich in plant Omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants, which can promote collagen regeneration, enhance skin elasticity, and repair enlarged pores caused by sagging skin. The inventors speculate that, in addition to the above-mentioned effects and other effects not mentioned in the present invention, the components also have unpredictable synergistic effects, so that when compounded within the mass parts range given in the present invention, the comprehensive effect is excellent and significant effects are achieved.

[0009] As a preferred embodiment of the pore astringent composition of the present invention, the pore astringent composition includes the following components in parts by mass: 0.05-0.5 parts of gentian root extract, 0.5-5 parts of barley flour, 1-5 parts of medicinal pore fungus extract, 0.1-3 parts of red clover flower extract, and 0.1-2 parts of flaxseed extract.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the pore astringent composition of the present invention, the pore astringent composition includes the following components in parts by mass: 0.2-0.3 parts of gentian root extract, 1-2 parts of barley flour, 2-3 parts of medicinal pore fungus extract, 1-2 parts of red clover flower extract, and 0.5-1 parts of flaxseed extract.

[0011] The present invention has found that the mass fraction of the components has a significant effect on the comprehensive performance of the pore astringent composition. When the mass fraction of the components is further selected to be within the above-mentioned preferred and more preferred ranges, the comprehensive effect of the obtained pore astringent composition is better.

[0012] As a preferred embodiment of the pore-tightening composition of the present invention, the preparation method of the red clover flower extract comprises the following steps: adding the dried and pulverized red clover flowers to an aqueous solution of a natural eutectic solvent for extraction, centrifuging after extraction, collecting the supernatant and concentrating it to obtain the red clover flower extract; the natural eutectic solvent comprises betaine and glycerol.

[0013] The present invention has found through research that when different extraction methods are used to extract red clover flowers, there will be differences in the active substances and the content of active substances in the extract, thus affecting the interaction between the red clover flower extract and other components; through a large number of studies, it has been found that when using the natural eutectic solvent composed of betaine and glycerol in the present invention for extraction, and then adding it to the pore-tightening composition, the obtained pore-tightening composition can better reduce sebum secretion, promote perifollicular keratin metabolism and collagen regeneration, so as to achieve a better effect of refining pores.

[0014] As a preferred embodiment of the pore-tightening composition of the present invention, the mass ratio of betaine to glycerol is 1:(2 - 4).

[0015] Exemplarily, the mass ratio of betaine to glycerol can be any point value or any two-point range value between 1:(2 - 4), such as 1:2, 1:2.5, 1:3, 1:3.5, 1:4, etc.

[0016] As a preferred embodiment of the pore-tightening composition of the present invention, in the aqueous solution of the natural eutectic solvent, the mass percentage of the natural eutectic solvent is 70 - 80%.

[0017] Exemplarily, in the aqueous solution of the natural eutectic solvent, the mass percentage of the natural eutectic solvent can be any point value or any two-point range value between 70 - 80%, such as 70%, 72%, 74%, 76%, 78%, 80%, etc.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment of the pore-tightening composition of the present invention, the mass-to-volume ratio of the red clover flowers to the aqueous solution of the natural eutectic solvent is (30 - 50) mg:1 mL.

[0019] Exemplarily, the mass-to-volume ratio of the red clover flowers to the aqueous solution of the natural eutectic solvent can be any point value or any two-point range value between (30 - 50) mg:1 mL, such as 30 mg:1 mL, 35 mg:1 mL, 40 mg:1 mL, 45 mg:1 mL, 50 mg:1 mL, etc.

[0020] It should be noted that the present invention does not limit the extraction method, and any conventional extraction method in the art can be used, such as ultrasonic extraction method, heating reflux extraction method or microwave extraction method.

[0021] Exemplarily, when ultrasonic extraction is used, the extraction temperature is 40 - 60 °C, the ultrasonic frequency is 80 - 120 W, and the extraction time is 25 - 45 min.

[0022] Exemplarily, when heating reflux extraction is used, the extraction temperature is 60 - 80 °C, and the time is 0.5 - 1.5 h.

[0023] Exemplarily, when microwave extraction is used, the microwave power is 200 - 400 W, and the extraction time is 10 - 20 min.

[0024] As a preferred embodiment of the pore - tightening composition of the present invention, the average particle size of the barley flour is 140 - 160 μm.

[0025] It should be noted that the average particle size of the barley flour is obtained by microscopic measurement.

[0026] Exemplarily, the average particle size of the barley flour can be any point value or any two - point range value between 140 - 160 μm, such as 140 μm, 142 μm, 145 μm, 148 μm, 150 μm, 152 μm, 155 μm, 158 μm, 160 μm, etc.

[0027] As a preferred embodiment of the pore - tightening composition of the present invention, based on the total mass of the pore - tightening composition, the mass ratio of the sum of the barley flour and the Phellinus linteus extract is 56 - 75%.

[0028] The present invention has found through research that in the pore - tightening composition, when further balancing the mass - fraction relationship between components and selecting the mass percentage of the sum of the barley flour and the Phellinus linteus extract in the pore - tightening composition to be 56 - 75%, the comprehensive effect of the obtained pore - tightening composition is better.

[0029] Exemplarily, based on the total mass of the pore - tightening composition, the mass ratio of the sum of the barley flour and the Phellinus linteus extract can be any point value or any two - point range value between 56 - 75%, such as 56%, 58%, 60%, 62%, 64%, 66%, 68%, 70%, 72%, 75%, etc.

[0030] Preferably, based on the total mass of the pore - tightening composition, the mass ratio of the sum of the barley flour and the Phellinus linteus extract is 58 - 63%.

[0031] In the second aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides the application of the pore-tightening composition in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0032] The pore-tightening composition provided by the present invention can effectively regulate sebum secretion, promote perifollicular keratin metabolism and collagen regeneration, and thus can be widely applied in the preparation of cosmetics to achieve long-lasting and potent pore refinement, oil secretion reduction and skin barrier ability enhancement of cosmetics.

[0033] As a preferred embodiment of the application of the present invention, the cosmetics include any one of lotion, emulsion, cream, facial mask, essence, spray.

[0034] In the third aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides an emulsion, and the emulsion includes the following components in mass percentages: thickener 0.05 - 0.3%, humectant 0.5 - 1%, pH regulator 0.01 - 0.3%, emulsifier 0.5 - 5%, preservative 0.5 - 3%, the pore-tightening composition 1 - 10%, and deionized water as the balance.

[0035] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the emulsion includes the following components in mass percentages: thickener 0.18 - 0.22%, humectant 0.8 - 0.95%, pH regulator 0.02 - 0.05%, emulsifier 3.5 - 4.5%, preservative 1 - 1.2%, the pore-tightening composition 4 - 6%, and deionized water as the balance.

[0036] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the thickener includes at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, sclerotium gum, cetyl alcohol.

[0037] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the humectant includes at least one of allantoin, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated lecithin, betaine, β-glucan, trehalose, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1,2-butanediol, glycerol, pullulan, ceramide.

[0038] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the pH regulator includes at least one of arginine, tromethamine, disodium EDTA.

[0039] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the emulsifier includes at least one of glyceryl caprylate / caprate, C14 - 22 alcohol, C12 - 20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraester, polydimethylsiloxane, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythrityl distearate, sucrose stearate.

[0040] As a preferred embodiment of the emulsion of the present invention, the preservative includes at least one of 1,2 - propylene glycol, 1,2 - hexanediol, p - hydroxyacetophenone, and acrylate / C10 - 30 alkanol acrylate cross - polymer.

[0041] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0042] By selecting appropriate parts by mass of components, and with the components synergistically interacting with each other, the present invention can effectively regulate sebum secretion, promote perifollicular keratin metabolism, and promote collagen regeneration. When applied to the human body, it can effectively refine pores, reduce oil secretion, and enhance the skin barrier; moreover, the effects of pore refinement, oil secretion reduction, and skin barrier enhancement are relatively long - lasting, that is, it has the effect of long - term pore refinement; and, the pore - shrinking composition provided by the present invention is mild and non - irritating, and is suitable for sensitive - skin people. Detailed implementation manners

[0043] To better illustrate the purpose, technical solutions, and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0044] The reagents, methods, and equipment used in the present invention are all conventional reagents, methods, and equipment in the art without special instructions; and without special instructions, the raw materials used in parallel experiments are from the same batch of raw materials.

[0045] Gentiana root extract: Purchased from Shaanxi Haochen Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0046] Phellinus linteus extract: Purchased from BASF Company in Germany.

[0047] Flaxseed extract: Purchased from Shaanxi Yinuo Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0048] Barley flour 1: The average particle size is 140 μm;

[0049] Barley flour 2: The average particle size is 160 μm;

[0050] Barley flour 3: The average particle size is 120 μm;

[0051] Barley flour 4: The average particle size is 180 μm;

[0052] Among them, barley flours 1 - 4 are prepared by grinding and sieving the barley flour purchased from Baoji Liupanyun Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

[0053] Red clover flower extract 1: Self - made, and the preparation method includes the following steps:

[0054] (1) Collect the flowers of Trifolium pratense, wash them clean, place them in a constant-temperature oven at 50 °C and dry to a constant weight. Then take them out, grind and crush them, and pass through an 80-mesh sieve. Collect the material under the sieve;

[0055] (2) Take 1 g of the material under the sieve and add it to 20 mL of an aqueous solution of natural deep eutectic solvent (by the total mass of the aqueous solution of natural deep eutectic solvent, the mass percentage of the natural deep eutectic solvent is 75%; the natural deep eutectic solvent is composed of betaine and glycerol in a mass ratio of 1:3), and perform ultrasonic extraction for 35 min under the conditions of a power of 100 W and a temperature of 50 °C;

[0056] (3) After the ultrasonic extraction is completed, centrifuge, collect the supernatant and concentrate it under reduced pressure to obtain Trifolium pratense flower extract 1;

[0057] Trifolium pratense flower extract 2: Self-made. The only difference in the preparation method from Trifolium pratense flower extract 1 is that in step (2), microwave extraction is performed for 15 min under a power of 300 W;

[0058] Trifolium pratense flower extract 3: Self-made. The only difference in the preparation method from Trifolium pratense flower extract 1 is that the natural deep eutectic solvent is composed of betaine and glycerol in a mass ratio of 1:0.6;

[0059] Trifolium pratense flower extract 4: Self-made. The only difference in the preparation method from Trifolium pratense flower extract 1 is that the natural deep eutectic solvent is composed of betaine and glycerol in a mass ratio of 1:8;

[0060] Trifolium pratense flower extract 5: Self-made. The only difference in the preparation method from Trifolium pratense flower extract 1 is that by the total mass of the aqueous solution of natural deep eutectic solvent, the mass percentage of the natural deep eutectic solvent is 90%;

[0061] Trifolium pratense flower extract 6: Self-made. The only difference in the preparation method from Trifolium pratense flower extract 1 is that the natural deep eutectic solvent is composed of glycerol and choline chloride in a mass ratio of 1:3;

[0062] Trifolium pratense flower extract 7: Self-made. The only difference in the preparation method from Trifolium pratense flower extract 1 is that 75% ethanol aqueous solution is used to replace the aqueous solution of natural deep eutectic solvent.

[0063] Examples 1 - 7 and Comparative Examples 1 - 8

[0064] The examples and comparative examples of the present invention provide a pore-tightening composition, and the components (parts by mass) of the pore-tightening composition are shown in Table 1;

[0065] Table 1

[0066]

[0067]

[0068] The preparation method of the pore-tightening composition provided in Example 1 is as follows: Mix the components evenly to obtain the pore-tightening composition.

[0069] The preparation methods of the pore-tightening compositions provided in Examples 2-7 and Comparative Examples 1-8 are the same as that in Example 1.

[0070] Example 8

[0071] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that in Example 1 is that barley flour 2 is used to replace barley flour 1.

[0072] Example 9

[0073] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that in Example 1 is that barley flour 3 is used to replace barley flour 1.

[0074] Example 10

[0075] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that in Example 1 is that barley flour 4 is used to replace barley flour 1.

[0076] Example 11

[0077] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that in Example 1 is that red clover flower extract 2 is used to replace red clover flower extract 1.

[0078] Example 12

[0079] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that in Example 1 is that red clover flower extract 3 is used to replace red clover flower extract 1.

[0080] Example 13

[0081] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that in Example 1 is that red clover flower extract 4 is used to replace red clover flower extract 1.

[0082] Example 14

[0083] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that in Example 1 is that red clover flower extract 5 is used to replace red clover flower extract 1.

[0084] Example 15

[0085] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that of Example 1 is that Trifolium pratense flower extract 6 is used to replace Trifolium pratense flower extract 1.

[0086] Example 16

[0087] An embodiment of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that of Example 1 is that Trifolium pratense flower extract 7 is used to replace Trifolium pratense flower extract 1.

[0088] Comparative Example 9

[0089] A comparative example of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that of Example 1 is that Coptis chinensis extract (purchased from Shaanxi Huike Plant Development Co., Ltd.) is used to replace Gentiana root extract.

[0090] Comparative Example 10

[0091] A comparative example of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that of Example 1 is that oat flour (purchased from Shaanxi Angsheng Biomedical Technology Co., Ltd.) is used to replace barley flour 1.

[0092] Comparative Example 11

[0093] A comparative example of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that of Example 1 is that Phellinus linteus (purchased from Shaanxi Haosen Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) is used to replace Phellinus linteus extract.

[0094] Comparative Example 12

[0095] A comparative example of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that of Example 1 is that Lysimachia christinae extract (purchased from Shaanxi Huike Plant Development Co., Ltd.) is used to replace Trifolium pratense flower extract 1.

[0096] Comparative Example 13

[0097] A comparative example of the present invention provides a pore-tightening composition. The only difference between the pore-tightening composition and that of Example 1 is that grape seed extract (purchased from Shaanxi Huike Plant Development Co., Ltd.) is used to replace flax seed extract.

[0098] Application Examples 1-18, Comparative Application Examples 1-14

[0099] The application examples and comparative application examples of the present invention provide an emulsion, and the components (mass percentage) of the emulsion are shown in Table 2; among them, the pore-tightening compositions used in Application Examples 1-16 are respectively the pore-tightening compositions prepared in Examples 1-16, and the pore-tightening compositions used in Comparative Application Examples 1-13 are respectively the pore-tightening compositions prepared in Comparative Examples 1-13; the pore-tightening compositions used in Application Examples 17-18 are the pore-tightening compositions prepared in Example 1;

[0100] Table 2

[0101]

[0102]

[0103] The preparation method of the emulsion provided by Application Example 1 includes the following steps:

[0104] (1) Mix a humectant, a thickener, and a part of the pH regulator (disodium EDTA) with water and stir. After heating to 85 °C, homogenize at a rotation speed of 1300 rpm for 4 min. After the homogenization is completed, keep it warm for standby to obtain the prefabricated Component A;

[0105] (2) Mix the emulsifiers, heat to 75 °C, and then homogenize at a rotation speed of 1300 rpm for 4 min. After the homogenization is completed, keep it warm for standby to obtain the prefabricated Component B;

[0106] (3) Mix the preservatives, heat to 60 °C to melt, and obtain the prefabricated Component C;

[0107] (4) Heat the prefabricated Component A to 80 °C, add the prefabricated Component B at a rotation speed of 300 rpm, stir and mix. Then cool to 60 °C, add the prefabricated Component C at a rotation speed of 300 rpm and stir and mix. Subsequently, cool to below 45 °C, add the pore-tightening composition and continue to stir for 8 min. Finally, add the remaining pH regulator (arginine) to adjust the pH to 5.5-7.0, then stop stirring, discharge, and obtain the emulsion;

[0108] The preparation methods of the emulsions provided by Application Examples 2-18 and Comparative Application Examples 1-14 are the same as that of Application Example 1.

[0109] Effect Example 1

[0110] The effect examples of the present invention explore the effects of the pore-tightening compositions prepared in Examples 1-16 and Comparative Examples 1-13, including the following aspects:

[0111] 1. Ability to regulate sebum secretion

[0112] The cell line used was human sebaceous gland cells SZ95 (Shanghai Qingqi Biotechnology, BFN60807569), with 7 passages. The test conditions were: incubator temperature 37 ± 1 °C, humidity 90 ± 5%, carbon dioxide 5 ± 1%; cell culture was carried out according to the grouping, and then the test was carried out. The specific test was a neutral lipid fluorescence quantitative experiment. The test method was as follows:

[0113] (1) Inoculate the cell suspension into a 96-well cell culture plate at a density of 1.0 * 10 4 cells / well, and add 100 μL of DMEM medium (Gibco, C11965500BT) to each well, and culture for 18 - 24 h;

[0114] (2) Discard the supernatant. The control group was added with 100 μL of medium containing 10 ng / mL hydrocortisone (Shanghai Yuanye Biotechnology, S31360), and the sample groups were respectively added with 100 μL of medium containing 10 ng / mL hydrocortisone and 0.2% w / v (g / mL) of the pore-tightening composition prepared in the examples and comparative examples;

[0115] (3) After incubating for 48 h, discard the supernatant. After washing twice with PBS, add Nile red dye (Shanghai Yuanye Biotechnology, S02N11G129713) and incubate at 37 °C in the dark for 15 min, wash twice with PBS, and use a multifunctional microplate reader to detect fluorescence. The excitation wavelength for detection was 485 nm, and the absorption wavelength was 565 nm;

[0116] (4) The results were calculated using the fluorescence OD value. The reduction rate of intracellular neutral lipids (%) = (1 - OD value of the sample group / OD value of the control group) * 100%;

[0117] The results obtained are shown in Table 3.

[0118] 2. Ability to promote perifollicular keratin metabolism

[0119] Experimental materials: The cell line used was human keratinocyte HaCaT (Guangzhou Geneo Biotechnology Co., Ltd.). The test conditions were: incubator temperature 37 ± 1 °C, humidity 90 ± 5%, carbon dioxide 5 ± 1%; cell culture and treatment were carried out according to the grouping, and then the test was carried out. The specific test was the detection of the expression of keratin metabolism-related genes KLK5 and Caspase-14; the specific test method was as follows:

[0120] (1) Inoculate the cell suspension into a 96-well cell culture plate at a density of 2000 cells / well, add 100 μL of culture medium to each well, and culture for 24 h;

[0121] (2) Discard the supernatant. Add 100 μL of DMEM medium (2105341, Gibco) to the blank group, and add 100 μL of medium containing the pore-tightening composition prepared in the examples and comparative examples at 0.2% w / v (g / mL) to the sample groups;

[0122] (3) After incubating for 48 h, discard the supernatant. Extract the RNA of the cells using an RNA extraction kit (TRIzol, Thermo Fisher), and reverse transcribe the RNA into cDNA using a reverse transcription kit (RevertAid RT, Thermo Fisher). Perform real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR reaction (TaqMan, Thermo Fisher) using the synthesized cDNA as a template;

[0123] (4) Detect the expression levels of KLK5 and Caspase-14 genes in HaCaT cells of each group by real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR method. Use GAPDH as an internal reference gene. The primer sequences for KLK5 used are:

[0124] 5’-CCTGTTCTTGCTGGGGATGT-3’,

[0125] 5’-ACTTGGAATCCGTGCTGAGG-3’;

[0126] The primer sequences for Caspase-14 used are:

[0127] 5’-GATGAGGTTGCTGTGCTAA-3’,

[0128] 5’-GAACACATCCGTCAGGGTCT-3’;

[0129] The primer sequences for GAPDH used are:

[0130] 5’-ACTTTGTCAAGCTCATTTCC-3’,

[0131] 5’-TGCAGCGAACTTTATTGATG-3’;

[0132] Keratinase KLK5 can promote the shedding of stratum corneum cells, while caspase-14 promotes the apoptosis and maturation of keratinocytes. The two together promote the renewal of the stratum corneum. Therefore, after sample treatment, the higher the expression levels of KLK5 and Caspase-14, the higher the metabolic level of stratum corneum cells, and the stronger the ability of the composition to promote perifollicular keratin metabolism. The ability of the composition to promote perifollicular keratin metabolism is represented by the increase in the expression levels of KLK5 and Caspase-14 genes. The calculation formula is as follows:

[0133] KLK5 / Caspase-14 gene expression increase rate = (gene expression level 样品组 / gene expression level 空白组 × 100%) - 1;

[0134] The results obtained are shown in Table 3.

[0135] 3. Ability to promote collagen regeneration

[0136] The cell line used was human dermal fibroblasts HDF (product number PC-202h, Wuhan Biosciences Co., Ltd.), and the test conditions were: incubator temperature 37 ± 1 °C, humidity 90 ± 5%, carbon dioxide 5 ± 1%; according to the grouping, cell culture and treatment were carried out, and then the test was carried out. The specific test was the determination of type I collagen content; the specific test method was as follows:

[0137] (1) Seeding: The cells were seeded into a culture flask at a culture density of 1 × 10 6 cells / mL, and DMEM high-glucose culture medium (Gibco) containing 10% fetal bovine serum was used. Incubate in a 37 °C, 5% CO 2 incubator for 24 h;

[0138] (2) Induction: Treat with PBS buffer containing 50 μM hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes, discard the PBS solution containing hydrogen peroxide, and then wash 3 times with PBS;

[0139] (3) Sample addition: The blank group was added with DMEM high-glucose culture medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum, and the sample group was added with DMEM high-glucose culture medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum and 0.2% w / v (g / mL) of the pore-tightening composition prepared in the examples and comparative examples. Continue to culture in a 37 °C, 5% CO 2 incubator for 24 h and then collect the cells;

[0140] (4) Detection of type I collagen content: The cells were lysed with RIPA cell lysate containing protease inhibitor. The lysed sample was centrifuged at 12,000 g for 5 minutes, and the supernatant was taken. The type I collagen content in the cell supernatant of each group was detected using a human type I collagen (Col I) ELISA kit (product number ml057630, Enzyme-linked Biosciences);

[0141] The higher the collagen content, the stronger the ability of the composition to promote collagen regeneration. The ability of the composition to promote collagen regeneration is represented by the increase in type I collagen. The calculation formula is as follows: Collagen increase rate (%) = (sample group - blank group) / blank group * 100%; The results obtained are shown in Table 3.

[0142] Table 3

[0143]

[0144]

[0145] As can be seen from Table 3, when the technical solution provided by the present invention is adopted, the obtained pore-tightening composition has excellent abilities to regulate sebum secretion, promote perifollicular keratin metabolism, and promote collagen regeneration; specifically, the neutral lipid reduction rate obtained in the sebum regulation ability test of the obtained pore-tightening composition is above 15.3%; in promoting perifollicular keratin metabolism, the increase rates of KLK5 gene expression and Caspase-14 gene expression are above 18.5% and 59.0% respectively; in the test for promoting collagen, the increase rate of collagen is above 11.9%.

[0146] As can be seen from Examples 1-7, the mass parts of the components and the mass ratios of some components in the pore-tightening composition will affect the comprehensive performance of the pore-tightening composition. When the mass parts of the components are further selected within the range given by the present invention, the comprehensive performance of the obtained pore-tightening composition is better, wherein the neutral lipid reduction rate is above 32.3%, the increase rates of KLK5 gene expression and Caspase-14 gene expression are above 35.9% and 123.2% respectively, and the increase rate of collagen is above 23.1%.

[0147] As can be seen from Examples 1 and 8-10, the parameter selection in the components will also affect the comprehensive performance of the pore-tightening composition. When the average particle size of the barley flour is within the preferred range of the present invention, the comprehensive performance of the obtained pore-tightening composition is better; as can be seen from Examples 1 and 11-16, the preparation method of the red clover flower extract will also affect the comprehensive performance of the pore-tightening composition.

[0148] As can be seen from Examples 1 and Comparative Examples 1-8, when one or two of the components are not added, or when the mass parts of one component are added to other components when it is not added, the effects of the present invention cannot be achieved; as can be seen from Examples 1 and Comparative Examples 9-13, when other components are used to replace the components in the present invention, the effects of the obtained products also show a certain downward trend.

[0149] Effect Example 2

[0150] The present invention explores the safety of the emulsions prepared in Application Examples 1-18 and Comparative Application Examples 1-14 by using the human skin patch test. The test includes the following contents:

[0151] Recruit 30 volunteers, 15 males and 15 females, aged 20 - 50 years old. Adopt the closed patch test method. Place an equal amount (0.020 - 0.025 mL) of the test sample in a specific patch tester, and apply it to the volunteers' arms with a low-allergy tape. Gently press it to make it evenly adhere to the skin and leave it for 24 h; the blank group is distilled water. After 24 h, remove the patch tester, and observe the skin reaction at 0.5 h, 24 h, and 48 h, and record the results. The adverse reaction grades of the skin are shown in Table 4 below;

[0152] Table 4

[0153]

[0154] After testing, the emulsions provided by the application examples and comparative application examples of the present invention are all negative reactions after human patch testing, and they are safe and non-irritating to human skin.

[0155] Effect Example 3

[0156] The effect example of the present invention explores the effects of the emulsions prepared from Application Examples 1 - 18 and Comparative Application Examples 1 - 14 on the human body, including the following contents:

[0157] Select 192 Asian adult testers with sensitive skin aged 18 - 60 years old according to the "Technical Specifications for Cosmetics Safety" (2015) test, and randomly divide them into 32 groups, with 6 people in each group. The volunteers use the samples (the samples are the emulsions prepared from the application examples and comparative application examples) on the whole face once in the morning and once in the evening every day, and the usage amount is about 1 - 2 g. Data is collected on the 0th day, 7th day, 28th day of use, and the 5th day after stopping use. After the volunteers arrive, wash their faces with facial cleanser and sit quietly in an air-conditioned room at a temperature of 21 ± 1 °C and a humidity of 50 ± 10% for 30 minutes. Use the skin image analyzer digimiC800 to measure the skin pore diameter outside the nasolabial groove; use the skin oil test probe Sebumeter to collect the forehead oil content data; use the skin water loss test probe TewaMeter to measure the transdermal water loss value TEWL of the cheekbones;

[0158] The ability of the emulsion to refine pores is represented by the reduction of the pore diameter, the oil control ability is represented by the reduction of the forehead oil content, and the soothing and repair ability is represented by the reduction of the TEWL value. The formula is as follows:

[0159] Improvement rate = (T0 样品组 - Tx 样品组 ) / T0 样品组 * 100%] - [(T0 对比应用例14 - Tx 对比应用例14 ) / T0 对比应用例14 * 100%;

[0160] The obtained results are shown in Table 5;

[0161] Table 5

[0162]

[0163]

[0164] As can be seen from Table 5, when the technical solution provided by the present invention is adopted, the obtained emulsion has the ability to long-acting and effectively refine pores, improve the oil content, and enhance the skin barrier; specifically, the obtained emulsion has a pore diameter improvement rate of more than 18.7% after continuous use for 28 days, a forehead oil content improvement rate of more than 15.8%, and a TEWL improvement rate of more than 11.9%; after stopping use for 5 days, the pore diameter improvement rate is more than 14.0%, the forehead oil content improvement rate is more than 11.7%, and the TEWL improvement rate is more than 9.0%;

[0165] As can be seen from Application Examples 1-7, the mass parts of the components added in the pore-tightening composition and the mass ratio of some components in the pore-tightening composition will affect the efficacy of the pore-tightening composition in the emulsion, thereby affecting the comprehensive performance of the emulsion. When the mass parts of the components in the pore-tightening composition are further selected within the range given in the present invention, the comprehensive performance of the obtained emulsion is better. Among them, the obtained emulsion has a pore diameter improvement rate of more than 37.5% after continuous use for 28 days, a forehead oil content improvement rate of more than 32.4%, and a TEWL improvement rate of more than 22.1%; after stopping use for 5 days, the pore diameter improvement rate is more than 32.0%, the forehead oil content improvement rate is more than 27.9%, and the TEWL improvement rate is more than 20.1%;

[0166] As can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 1-8, when one or two of the components in the pore-tightening composition are not added, or when the mass parts of one component are added to other components when one component is not added, the effects of the present invention cannot be achieved; as can be seen from Application Example 1 and Comparative Application Examples 9-13, when other components are used to replace the components in the present invention, the effects of the obtained products also show a certain downward trend.

[0167] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention rather than to limit the protection scope of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, those of ordinary skill in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present invention can be modified or equivalently replaced without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. A pore tightening composition, characterized in that: The pore tightening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-2 parts of gentian root extract, 0.1-10 parts of barley flour, 0.1-10 parts of medicinal porphyra extract, 0.01-5 parts of red clover flower extract, and 0.01-5 parts of flaxseed extract.

2. The pore tightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pore tightening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.05-0.5 parts of gentian root extract, 0.5-5 parts of barley flour, 1-5 parts of medicinal phyllostachys extract, 0.1-3 parts of red clover flower extract, and 0.1-2 parts of flaxseed extract.

3. The pore tightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pore tightening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.2-0.3 parts of gentian root extract, 1-2 parts of barley flour, 2-3 parts of medicinal phyllostachys extract, 1-2 parts of red clover flower extract, and 0.5-1 parts of flaxseed extract.

4. The pore tightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The preparation method of the red clover flower extract comprises the following steps: The dried and crushed red clover flower is added into a natural low eutectic solvent aqueous solution for extraction, centrifuged after extraction, and the supernatant is collected and concentrated to obtain a red clover flower extract; The natural deep eutectic solvent includes betaine and glycerol.

5. The pore tightening composition according to claim 4, characterized in that: The mass ratio of betaine to glycerol is 1:(2-4); And / or, in the aqueous solution of the natural deep eutectic solvent, the mass percentage of the natural deep eutectic solvent is 70-80%; And / or, the mass volume ratio of the red clover flower and the natural low eutectic solvent aqueous solution is (30-50) mg:1 mL.

6. The pore tightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The average particle size of the barley flour is 140-160 μm.

7. The pore tightening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: Based on the total mass of the pore astringent composition, the sum of the mass of the barley flour and the medicinal porphyra extract accounts for 56-75%.

8. Use of the pore astringent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in the preparation of cosmetics.

9. An emulsion, characterized in that The emulsion comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05-0.3% of thickener, 0.5-1% of moisturizer, 0.01-0.3% of pH regulator, 0.5-5% of emulsifier, 0.5-3% of preservative, 1-10% of pore astringent composition and the balance of deionized water.

10. The emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that At least one of the following is met: (1) The thickener comprises at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sclerotium gum, and cetyl alcohol; (2) The moisturizing agent includes at least one of allantoin, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated lecithin, betaine, β-glucan, trehalose, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1,2-butylene glycol, glycerol, budding septin polysaccharide, and ceramide; (3) The pH adjusting agent includes at least one of arginine, tromethamine, and EDTA-disodium; (4) the emulsifier comprises at least one of caprylic capric triglyceride, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythritol tetrastearate, polydimethylsiloxane, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythritol distearate, and sucrose stearate; (5) The preservative includes at least one of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, and acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.

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