Raw material composition of bionic esters, D-phase gel, application and cosmetics

Abstract

The invention discloses a raw material composition of bionic esters, D-phase gel, application and cosmetics. The biomimetic ester is prepared from the following raw material compositions: phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dimer linoleate, phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimer linoleate, hydrogenated lecithin and polyhydric alcohol. The bionic ester raw material composition disclosed by the invention can be directly added into various cleaning products containing a surfactant, and the problems that the surfactant added into a washing-off cleaning product is easy to cause excessive skin degreasing, the washed skin is dry, and the skin feels tight can be solved by using a small addition amount; meanwhile, the cleaning power, the foam amount and the mildness of the cleaning product are not influenced. The D-phase gel formed by the raw material composition of the biomimetic esters prepared by the invention is arranged in a layered liquid crystal structure.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a raw material composition of a bionic ester, a D-phase gel, an application, and a cosmetic product. Background Art

[0002] People use cleaning products to clean their skin every day, such as facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, etc. These products mainly use various surfactants as detergents. Utilizing the amphiphilic structure of surfactants, the lipophilic end dissolves oil and dirt, and then the hydrophilic end carries away the dirt. The above-mentioned surfactants include anionic surfactants such as fatty acid salts, sulfates, and amino acid surfactants, as well as nonionic surfactants such as alkyl glycosides, and amphoteric surfactants such as alkyl betaines. The use of these surfactants will, to a certain extent, carry away the sebum film required by the skin, resulting in a weakened skin barrier and excessive water loss, ultimately producing a feeling of dryness and tightness. Therefore, there is a great need in the market to develop products that have good cleaning ability and do not cause skin dryness and tightness.

[0003] After investigation, there are currently some products that claim to improve the tight and dry feeling of detergents as follows:

[0004] (1) Chinese Patent Document CN100444820C discloses a detergent composition. This patent adopts the method of adjusting the pH value below the isoelectric point of the surfactant, but this method has a large limitation on the pH value of the product and may not be able to select the optimal pH value for the surfactant foam.

[0005] (2) Chinese Patent Document CN111135130B discloses a skin cleaning composition and its preparation method. This patent uses sapindus mukorossi extract as a new detergent, which improves the problem of water and oil loss, but it is not applicable to cleaning products with other surfactants.

[0006] (3) There are also facial cleansing products on the market that improve the tight feeling after washing by adding water-soluble oils, long-chain polyol humectants, and cationic surfactants. For example, Shiseido Wash Specialist Foam Facial Cleanser, Dove Deep Moisture Body Wash, Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme + Advanced Night Repair Cleansing Foam, but the effects are not significant enough and there is still a certain degree of tightness. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the defect that surfactants in existing cleaning products are prone to cause excessive skin defatting, resulting in dry and tight skin after washing. The present invention provides a raw material composition of bionic esters, a D-phase gel, an application, and a cosmetic. The raw material composition of bionic esters of the present application can be directly added to various types of cleaning products containing surfactants (such as body wash, facial cleanser, etc.). With a small addition amount (0.1%-0.5%), it can solve the problem that surfactants added in wash-off cleaning products are prone to cause excessive skin defatting, resulting in dry and tight skin after washing, and at the same time does not affect the cleaning power, foam amount, and mildness of the cleaning product. The D-phase gel formed by the raw material composition of bionic esters prepared by the present application has a lamellar liquid crystal structure arrangement.

[0008] During the R & D process, the inventors found that the molecular structures of two raw materials, phytosteryl isostearyl dilinoleate and phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate, are relatively large. These two raw materials include dilinoleate similar to the ceramide carbon chain, different configurations of fatty alcohols similar to free fatty acids, and phytosterols similar to cholesterol. When the above two raw materials are used in combination and their melting points, viscosities, and dosages are regulated, a large vacant steric hindrance structure can be formed, which can form a good moisture barrier on the skin. When the melting point of phytosteryl isostearyl dilinoleate is regulated to -40°C - 10°C and the viscosity is regulated to 1000 mPa·s - 3000 mPa·s; the melting point of phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate is regulated to 30°C - 60°C and the viscosity is regulated to 100 mPa·s - 1000 mPa·s; when the total mass percentage of phytosteryl isostearyl dilinoleate and phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate is regulated to 75% - 94%, the problem of dry and tight skin after washing can be better solved.

[0009] The present invention adopts the following technical solutions to solve the above technical problems:

[0010] A raw material composition of bionic esters, which comprises phytosteryl isostearyl dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate, hydrogenated lecithin, and polyol.

[0011] In the present invention, the melting point of the phytosteryl isostearyl dilinoleate can be -40°C - 10°C, such as -30°C, -20°C, or -10°C.

[0012] In the present invention, the viscosity of the phytosterol isostearyl dimlinoleate can be 1000 mPa·s - 3000 mPa·s, such as 2300 mPa·s, 2500 mPa·s or 2800 mPa·s. The viscosity can be measured using a rotational viscometer (such as Brookfield DV-1 viscometer), with a 3# rotor and a rotation speed of 20 r / min.

[0013] In a preferred embodiment, the melting point of the phytosterol isostearyl dimlinoleate is -30 °C and the viscosity is 2300 mPa·s.

[0014] In the present invention, the phytosterol isostearyl dimlinoleate can be prepared by the following method: reacting dimlinoleic acid, phytosterol and isostearyl alcohol under the protection of an inert gas.

[0015] Among them, the molar ratio of dimlinoleic acid:phytosterol:isostearyl alcohol is preferably 1:(0.8 - 1.2):(0.8 - 1.4).

[0016] Among them, the reaction temperature is preferably 180 - 240 °C.

[0017] Among them, the reaction time is preferably more than 16 hours.

[0018] In the present invention, the melting point of the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimlinoleate can be 30 °C - 60 °C, such as 40 °C, 50 °C or 55 °C.

[0019] In the present invention, the viscosity of the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimlinoleate can be 100 mPa·s - 1000 mPa·s, such as 200 mPa·s, 400 mPa·s, 500 mPa·s or 800 mPa·s. The viscosity can be measured using a rotational viscometer (such as Brookfield DV-1 viscometer), with a 3# rotor and a rotation speed of 20 r / min.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment, the melting point of the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimlinoleate is 40 °C and the viscosity is 200 mPa·s.

[0021] In the present invention, the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimlinoleate can be prepared by the following method: refluxing and reacting a mixture of dimer acid, phytosterol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and a mixture of solvents under the action of a catalyst.

[0022] Among them, the solvent is preferably a solvent with a boiling point of 100-140°C and immiscible with water.

[0023] Among them, the molar ratio of the dimer acid: the phytosterol: the isostearyl alcohol: the cetyl alcohol: the stearyl alcohol: the behenyl alcohol is preferably 100:(45-75):(60-90):(15-45):(15-35):(5-25).

[0024] Among them, the catalyst is preferably a Lewis acid.

[0025] Among them, the temperature of the reflux reaction is preferably 100-140°C.

[0026] Among them, the time of the reflux reaction is preferably more than 16 h.

[0027] In the present invention, the type of the polyol can be conventional in the art, preferably alcohols containing 3-6 carbon atoms in the molecule, more preferably alcohols containing 3-5 carbon atoms and 2-10 hydroxyl groups in the molecule, and still more preferably one or more of glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and butanediol, such as butanediol. In the present invention, the polyol mainly plays a role in dispersion and helps the formation of the D-phase gel.

[0028] In the present invention, the total mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate can be 75%-94%, preferably 90%-94%, such as 91%, 92% or 93%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the total mass of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic esters.

[0029] In the present invention, the mass ratio of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate can be 1:(1-5), preferably 1:(1-4.9), such as 1:2 or 1:4.875.

[0030] In the present invention, the mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate can be 10%-60%, preferably 12%-50%, such as 12.5%, 16%, 30%, 37.5% or 47%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic esters.

[0031] In the present invention, the mass percentage of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate may be 10% - 60%, preferably 12% - 50%, such as 37.5%, 47%, 60%, 62.5% or 78%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic ester.

[0032] In the present invention, the mass percentage of hydrogenated lecithin may be 1% - 20%, preferably 1% - 10%, such as 2% or 5%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of hydrogenated lecithin in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic ester.

[0033] In the present invention, the mass percentage of polyol may be 5% - 20%, preferably 5% - 10%, such as 8%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of polyol in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic ester.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the raw material composition of the bionic ester comprises 75% - 94% of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate, 1% - 20% of hydrogenated lecithin and 5% - 20% of polyol.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the raw material composition of the bionic ester comprises 10% - 60% of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate, 10% - 60% of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate, 1% - 20% of hydrogenated lecithin and 5% - 20% of polyol.

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the raw material composition of the bionic ester comprises 30% of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate, 60% of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate, 2% of hydrogenated lecithin and 8% of polyol.

[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the raw material composition of the bionic ester comprises 47% of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate, 47% of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate, 1% of hydrogenated lecithin and 5% of polyol.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the raw material composition of the bionic ester comprises 16% of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate, 78% of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate, 1% of hydrogenated lecithin and 5% of polyol.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the raw material composition of the bionic ester includes 37.5% of phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate, 37.5% of phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate, 5% of hydrogenated lecithin, and 20% of polyol.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the raw material composition of the bionic ester includes 12.5% of phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate, 62.5% of phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate, 5% of hydrogenated lecithin, and 20% of polyol.

[0041] The present invention also provides a D-phase gel, which comprises a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol and an oil phase; the oil phase includes phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate.

[0042] In the present invention, the inventor synergistically uses two raw materials in the oil phase and combines with other raw materials to finally form a D-phase gel with a lamellar liquid crystal structure arrangement. With a very small addition amount (0.1%-0.5%), it can solve the problem that the surfactant added in the wash-off type cleaning products is likely to cause excessive skin degreasing, resulting in dry and tight skin after washing, while not affecting the detergency, foam amount and mildness of the cleaning product. When the melting point of phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate in the oil phase is adjusted to -40°C - 10°C and the viscosity is adjusted to 1000 mPa·s - 3000 mPa·s; the melting point of phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate is adjusted to 30°C - 60°C and the viscosity is adjusted to 100 mPa·s - 1000 mPa·s; and the total mass percentage of the two raw materials in the oil phase is adjusted to 75% - 94%, the problem of dry and tight skin after washing can be better solved.

[0043] In the present invention, the melting point of phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate can be -40°C - 10°C, such as -30°C, -20°C or -10°C.

[0044] In the present invention, the viscosity of phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate can be 1000 mPa·s - 3000 mPa·s, such as 2300 mPa·s, 2500 mPa·s or 2800 mPa·s. The viscosity can be measured by a rotational viscometer (such as Brookfield DV-1 viscometer), selecting a 3# rotor and a rotational speed of 20 r / min.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the melting point of phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate is -30°C and the viscosity is 2300 mPa·s.

[0046] In the present invention, the melting point of the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate may be 30°C - 60°C, such as 40°C, 50°C or 55°C.

[0047] In the present invention, the viscosity of the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate may be 100 mPa·s - 1000 mPa·s, such as 200 mPa·s, 400 mPa·s, 500 mPa·s or 800 mPa·s. The viscosity can be measured by a rotational viscometer (such as a Brookfield DV-1 viscometer), using a 3# rotor and a rotational speed of 20 r / min.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the melting point of the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate is 40°C and the viscosity is 200 mPa·s.

[0049] In the present invention, the type of the polyol can be conventional in the art. Preferably, it is an alcohol containing 3 - 6 carbon atoms in the molecule. More preferably, it is an alcohol containing 3 - 5 carbon atoms and 2 - 10 hydroxyl groups in the molecule. Even more preferably, it is one or more of glycerol, 1,3 - propanediol and butanediol, such as butanediol. In the present invention, the polyol mainly plays a role in dispersion and helps in the formation of the D-phase gel.

[0050] In the present invention, the total mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate can be 75% - 94%, preferably 90% - 94%, such as 91%, 92% or 93%. The above mass percentage represents the proportion of the total mass of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic esters.

[0051] In the present invention, the mass ratio of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate to the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate can be 1:(1 - 5), preferably 1:(1 - 4.9), such as 1:2 or 1:4.875.

[0052] In the present invention, the mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate can be 10% - 60%, preferably 12% - 50%, such as 12.5%, 16%, 30%, 37.5% or 47%. The above mass percentage represents the proportion of the mass of the phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic esters.

[0053] In the present invention, the mass percentage of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate can be 10% - 60%, preferably 12% - 50%, such as 37.5%, 47%, 60%, 62.5% or 78%. The above mass percentage represents the proportion of the mass of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic ester.

[0054] In the present invention, the mass percentage of hydrogenated lecithin can be 1% - 20%, preferably 1% - 10%, such as 2% or 5%. The above mass percentage represents the proportion of the mass of hydrogenated lecithin in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic ester.

[0055] In the present invention, the mass percentage of polyol can be 5% - 20%, preferably 5% - 10%, such as 8%. The above mass percentage represents the proportion of the mass of polyol in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic ester.

[0056] In a preferred embodiment, the D-phase gel comprises an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol; the oil phase comprises 75% - 94% by mass of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate; the mass percentage of hydrogenated lecithin is 1% - 20%; the mass percentage of polyol is 5% - 20%.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the D-phase gel comprises an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol; the oil phase comprises 10% - 60% by mass of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and 10% - 60% by mass of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate; the mass percentage of hydrogenated lecithin is 1% - 20%; the mass percentage of polyol is 5% - 20%.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, the D-phase gel comprises an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol; the oil phase comprises 30% by mass of phytosterol isostearyl alcohol dilinoleate and 60% by mass of phytosterol / isostearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dilinoleate; the mass percentage of hydrogenated lecithin is 2%; the mass percentage of polyol is 8%.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the D-phase gel comprises an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols; the oil phase comprises phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 47% and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 47%; the mass percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin is 1%; the mass percentage of the polyols is 5%.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, the D-phase gel comprises an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols; the oil phase comprises phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 16% and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 78%; the mass percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin is 1%; the mass percentage of the polyols is 5%.

[0061] In a preferred embodiment, the D-phase gel comprises an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols; the oil phase comprises phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 37.5% and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 37.5%; the mass percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin is 5%; the mass percentage of the polyols is 20%.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the D-phase gel comprises an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols; the oil phase comprises phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 12.5% and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimer dilinoleate at a mass percentage of 62.5%; the mass percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin is 5%; the mass percentage of the polyols is 20%.

[0063] In the present invention, the preparation method of the D-phase gel preferably comprises the following steps:

[0064] S1. Heat-treat the phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimer dilinoleate to obtain an oil phase;

[0065] S2. Mix the oil phase and the hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols.

[0066] In S1, the temperature of the heat treatment can be 65 - 70 °C.

[0067] In S1, the time of the heat treatment can be 15 - 30 minutes.

[0068] In S1, the heat treatment generally further includes a stirring step. The end point of the heat treatment can be that the oil phase presents a transparent state.

[0069] In S2, the hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol can be obtained by dispersing the hydrogenated lecithin and the polyol and heating them in a water bath.

[0070] The temperature of the water bath heating can be 65 - 70 °C.

[0071] During the water bath heating process, it generally also includes a stirring step. The end point of the water bath heating can be that the hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol presents a milky and delicate emulsion state.

[0072] In S2, the temperature of the mixing can be 65 - 70 °C.

[0073] In S2, after the mixing, it further includes a cooling step. The cooling can be carried out in ice water.

[0074] The present invention also provides a cosmetic, which includes the D-phase gel as described above.

[0075] In the present invention, the cosmetic can be a cleaning product, preferably a foaming cleaning product.

[0076] Among them, the cleaning product can be a cleansing cream, a cleansing foam, a body wash, a shampoo, a scrub.

[0077] In the present invention, the cosmetic preferably includes a phase A, a phase B and the D-phase gel;

[0078] Among them, the phase A includes water, a humectant, a stabilizer, a surfactant and a thickener;

[0079] Among them, the phase B includes a pH regulator. Optionally, the phase B further includes a preservative.

[0080] The types of the humectant can be conventional in the art. Preferably, it includes polyether polyols, such as glycerol. The addition amount of the humectant can be 1 - 5%, for example, 2%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of the humectant in the total mass of the phase A and the phase B.

[0081] The types of the stabilizer can be conventional in the art. Preferably, it includes disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate. The addition amount of the stabilizer can be 0.05 - 0.2%, for example, 0.1%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of the stabilizer in the total mass of the phase A and the phase B.

[0082] The types of the surfactant can be conventional in the art, preferably including one or more of an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, and a nonionic surfactant. The anionic surfactant preferably includes carboxylates, sulfate esters, sulfonates, and acyl amino acids. The acyl amino acids are, for example, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and / or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. The cationic surfactant preferably includes quaternary ammonium salts. The amphoteric surfactant preferably includes amino acids and betaines. The betaine is, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine. The nonionic surfactant preferably includes glucosides. The addition amount of the surfactant can be 10-40%, for example, 18%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of the surfactant in the total mass of the Phase A and Phase B.

[0083] The surfactant is preferably cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.

[0084] The types of the thickener can be conventional in the art, preferably including PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate. The addition amount of the thickener can be 1-3%, for example, 2.5%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of the thickener in the total mass of the Phase A and Phase B.

[0085] The types of the preservative can be conventional in the art, preferably including phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin. The addition amount of the preservative can be 0.5-1%, for example, 0.7%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of the preservative in the total mass of the Phase A and Phase B.

[0086] The types of the pH regulator can be conventional in the art, preferably including citric acid. The addition amount of the pH regulator can be 0.3-0.6%, for example, 0.48%. The above mass percentage represents the percentage of the mass of the pH regulator in the total mass of the Phase A and Phase B.

[0087] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic includes Phase A, Phase B, and the Phase D gel; Phase A includes water, glycerin, disodium EDTA, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate; Phase B includes phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, and citric acid.

[0088] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic includes Phase A, Phase B, and the Phase D gel; Phase A includes water, 2% glycerin, 0.1% disodium EDTA, 2.5% sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, 15% cocamidopropyl betaine, 3% sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and 2.5% PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate; Phase B includes 0.7% phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, 0.48% citric acid.

[0089] In the present invention, the preparation method of the cosmetic preferably comprises the following steps:

[0090] (1) Add the Phase A into a beaker, heat it to 60 - 70 °C, and slowly stir until completely dissolved;

[0091] (2) Cool the Phase A to 45 - 50 °C, add each raw material of the Phase B, and slowly stir until completely dissolved;

[0092] (3) Continue to stir and cool to 35 - 40 °C, add the Phase D gel, and discharge the material.

[0093] In the present invention, when the cosmetic is a foaming cleansing product, it can not only maintain a better amount of foam, but also achieve a better moisturizing effect.

[0094] The present invention also provides an application of the raw material composition of the bionic ester or the Phase D gel as described above in cosmetics.

[0095] On the basis of conforming to the common knowledge in the art, the above preferred conditions can be combined arbitrarily to obtain various preferred examples of the present invention.

[0096] The reagents and raw materials used in the present invention are all commercially available.

[0097] The positive and progressive effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0098] (1) The raw material composition of the bionic ester of the present invention can be directly added to the formulations of various types of cleaning products, which is suitable for improving the dryness and tightness caused by different types of surfactants. At the same time, it does not affect the cleaning power, foam amount and mildness of the cleaning products, and can also reduce the irritation caused by surfactants.

[0099] (2) The raw material composition of the bionic ester of the present invention can achieve significant effects with a very small addition amount (0.1% - 0.5%), has economic advantages, a wide application range, and convenient usage methods. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0100] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the zonal markings on the left and right forearms. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0101] The present invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the examples described herein. The experimental methods without specific conditions noted in the following examples are carried out according to conventional methods and conditions, or are selected according to the product specifications.

[0102] The models or specifications and commercial sources of the raw materials used in the following examples or comparative examples are as follows in the table:

[0103]

[0104] Examples 1 - 5

[0105] (1) Raw material composition of bionic esters

[0106]

[0107] The above mass ratios represent the mass percentages of each raw material in the raw material composition of bionic esters.

[0108] (2) D - phase gel

[0109] The D - phase gel includes an oil phase and a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols; the oil phase includes phytosterol isostearyl dimlinoleate and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimlinoleate. The mass percentages of each raw material are as shown in the above table.

[0110] (3) Preparation method of D - phase gel

[0111] S1. Mix phytosterol isostearyl dimlinoleate and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimlinoleate, heat - treat at 65 - 70 °C for 15 minutes, and continue stirring until it becomes transparent to obtain the oil phase;

[0112] S2. Disperse lecithin emulsifier and polyols in a beaker in advance and heat them in a water bath to 65 - 70 °C; stir at high speed to disperse the lecithin emulsifier and polyols evenly until it becomes a milky white and delicate emulsion;

[0113] S3. Mix the oil phase and the hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols at a water bath temperature of 65 - 70 °C, maintain slow stirring under chilled water conditions, and cool down to obtain the product.

[0114] Comparative Examples 1 - 5

[0115] (1) Raw material composition of bionic esters

[0116]

[0117] The above mass ratios represent the mass percentages of each raw material in the raw material composition of bionic esters.

[0118] (2) Preparation method of gel

[0119] S1. Mix phytosterol isostearyl dimlinoleate and / or phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimlinoleate, heat - treat at 65 - 70 °C for 15 minutes, and continue stirring until it becomes transparent to obtain the oil phase;

[0120] S2. Pre-disperse lecithin emulsifier and polyol in a beaker, and heat them in a water bath to 65 - 70 °C; stir at high speed to disperse the lecithin emulsifier and polyol evenly until it becomes a milky white and delicate emulsion.

[0121] S3. Mix the oil phase and the hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol at a water bath temperature of 65 - 70 °C, and maintain slow stirring and cooling under the condition of chilled water.

[0122] Comparative Examples 6 - 10

[0123] (1) Raw material composition of bionic esters

[0124]

[0125] The above mass ratios represent the mass percentages of each raw material in the raw material composition of bionic esters.

[0126] (2) Preparation method of gel

[0127] S1. Heat-treat phytosterol ester (or phytosterol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, or shea butter, or lanolin, or water-soluble shea butter) at 65 - 70 °C for 15 minutes, and continue stirring until it becomes transparent as the oil phase.

[0128] S2. Pre-disperse hydrogenated lecithin and polyol in a beaker, and heat them in a water bath to 65 - 70 °C; stir at high speed to disperse the lecithin emulsifier and polyol evenly until it becomes a milky white and delicate emulsion.

[0129] S3. Mix the oil phase and the hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol at a water bath temperature of 65 - 70 °C, and maintain slow stirring and cooling under the condition of chilled water.

[0130] Comparative Examples 11 - 13

[0131] (1) Raw material composition of bionic esters

[0132]

[0133]

[0134] The above mass ratios represent the mass percentages of each raw material in the raw material composition of bionic esters.

[0135] (2) Preparation method of gel

[0136] S1. Heat-treat phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (or phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol / behenyl alcohol dimer dilinoleate, or phytosterol / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate) at 65 - 70 °C for 15 minutes, and continue stirring until it becomes transparent as the oil phase.

[0137] S2. Pre-disperse hydrogenated lecithin (Olivem 1000) or / and polyol in a beaker, and heat it in a water bath to 65 - 70 °C; stir at high speed to disperse the lecithin emulsifier and polyol evenly until it becomes a milky and delicate emulsion.

[0138] S3. Mix the oil phase and the hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyol at a water bath temperature of 65 - 70 °C, and maintain slow stirring and cool down under the condition of chilled water.

[0139] The above Comparative Example 8 / 9 is a comparative example using a similar melting point oil to replace the oil in the present invention.

[0140] The above Comparative Example 10 is a comparative example using a commercially available water-soluble oil claimed to have an improved feeling of tightness after washing.

[0141] Effect Example 1

[0142] Prepare a blank body wash in advance, and the preparation ratio and process are as shown in Table 1 below.

[0143] Table 1

[0144]

[0145]

[0146] Then divide the above-prepared blank body wash into 21 equal parts, and name them Body Wash 1# - Body Wash 20# and one blank body wash.

[0147] Add 0.1% content of the compositions prepared in the above Examples 1 - 5 to Body Wash 1# - Body Wash 5# respectively;

[0148] Add 0.1% content of the compositions prepared in the above Comparative Examples 1 - 13 to Body Wash 6# - Body Wash 15# respectively;

[0149] Add 0.3% and 0.5% content of the composition prepared in the above Example 1 to Body Wash 16# and Body Wash 17# respectively;

[0150] Add 0.1% content of the compositions prepared in the above Comparative Examples 11 - 13 to Body Wash 18# and Body Wash 20# respectively.

[0151] Specifically as shown in Table 2 below:

[0152] Table 2

[0153] Sample Name Additive Sample Name Additive Blank Body Wash / Body Wash 11# 0.1% Comparative Example 6 Body Wash 1# 0.1% Example 1 Body Wash 12# 0.1% Comparative Example 7 Body Wash 2# 0.1% Example 2 Body Wash 13# 0.1% Comparative Example 8 Body Wash 3# 0.1% Example 3 Body Wash 14# 0.1% Comparative Example 9 Body Wash 4# 0.1% Example 4 Body Wash 15# 0.1% Comparative Example 10 Body Wash 5# 0.1% Example 5 Body Wash 16# 0.3% Example 1 Body Wash 6# 0.1% Comparative Example 1 Body Wash 17# 0.5% Example 1 Body Wash 7# 0.1% Comparative Example 2 Body Wash 18# 0.1% Comparative Example 11 Body Wash 8# 0.1% Comparative Example 3 Body Wash 19# 0.1% Comparative Example 12 Body Wash 9# 0.1% Comparative Example 4 Body Wash 20# 0.1% Comparative Example 13 Body Wash 10# 0.1% Comparative Example 5

[0154] Sensory evaluation (foam amount, cleansing feeling, feeling of tightness after washing) during and after using Effect Example 2

[0155] Use the above-mentioned shower gels #1 - #20 and the blank shower gel respectively, and evaluate the amount of foam during washing, the detergency after rinsing, and the tight feeling after drying.

[0156] Test method: Select 30 volunteers, moisten the inner sides of both arms with water, and use one of the shower gels #1 - #20 and the blank shower gel on the left and right arms respectively. Take 1 ml of the shower gel, rub it back and forth to produce foam 20 times, then rinse off the foam with water, and let the arms dry naturally. (To avoid the influence caused by repeated washing, each volunteer needs to try other groups of samples the next day after washing one group of samples.)

[0157] Scoring rule: Set the blank shower gel as 3 points, score the test samples according to the scoring standard, collect at least 10 scoring data for each test sample, and take the average value. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0158] Table 3

[0159]

[0160]

[0161] Effect Example 3 Human Test (Water Content of Stratum Corneum)

[0162] After skin cleansing, the water content of the stratum corneum will increase in the short term. However, if no moisturizing product is used, the moisture will quickly lose within 30 minutes and be in a dry state at 30 - 60 minutes until the skin secretes sebum again that can retain moisture. According to the above experimental results, excluding the samples with significantly worse foam amount and washing feeling, the test products used in this test are shower gels #1 - #5, shower gels #8, #9, #12, #15, #16, #17, #18, #19, #20, and the blank shower gel.

[0163] Test principle: Usually, after using a shower gel to clean the skin, the skin will feel dry and tight within 30 minutes. This experiment verifies the improvement effect of the product on the dry and tight feeling after washing by testing the water content of the stratum corneum of the human body within 30 minutes after using the product.

[0164] Test method:

[0165] (1) Recruit 30 eligible volunteers, and pre-mark the left and right forearms in zones (as Figure 1 shown);

[0166] (2) Before the test, the volunteers wash their forearms with water and sit still in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 15 minutes;

[0167] (3) Collect the water content data of the stratum corneum before cleaning using the Comeometer CM 825 probe of the CK multi-probe test system;

[0168] (4) Divide 30 volunteers into two groups, A and B. Each group tests 6 samples respectively. Group A uses blank body wash and body washes 1#, 2#, 3#, 8#, 9# in sequence from 1 to 6 for cleaning in the marked area on the arm; Group B uses body washes 4#, 5#, 12#, 15#, 16#, 17# in sequence from 1 to 6 for cleaning in the marked area on the arm. Group C uses body washes 18#, 19#, 20# in sequence from 1 to 3 for cleaning in the marked area on the arm. Sit quietly for 30 minutes after cleaning and test the water content data of the stratum corneum after washing. The results are shown in Table 4.

[0169] Table 4

[0170]

[0171] As can be seen from the above table, the body washes added with the body wash of Example 1 (1#, 16#, 17#) have better stratum corneum moisture after cleaning than before cleaning, and the higher the addition amount of the example, the more significant the effect; while the body washes added with the body washes of Examples 2-5 (2#-5#) have less reduction in stratum corneum moisture after cleaning and have significant improvement compared with the blank body wash; while the body washes added with the body washes of Comparative Examples 3, 4, 7, 10 (8#, 9#, 12#, 15#) have a significant reduction in stratum corneum moisture 30 minutes after cleaning, which is close to that of the blank body wash.

[0172] Effect Example 4 Human Test (Effect of Human Sebum Content)

[0173] When using cleaning products, the key lipids on the skin epidermis will be taken away by surfactants, resulting in insufficient skin moisturizing ability and a feeling of dryness and tightness. In this experiment, the lipid content of the skin before and after cleaning was detected using blank body wash and body wash 16# (i.e., the product added with 0.3% of Example 1).

[0174] Materials and Reagents: Free Fatty Acid Detection Kit (Solarbio), Human Ceramide Detection Kit (Ceramide), Sebutape Patches Tape (Jinan Youtian).

[0175] Experimental Method:

[0176] (1) Lipid Sampling: Six volunteers perform lipid sampling before and 30 minutes after cleaning. The experimenter sticks the tape on the forehead and left and right cheeks of the volunteers, removes it after three minutes, labels it and puts it into a sterile EP tube, and stores the EP tube in dry ice for further testing.

[0177] (2) Sample dissolution: Dissolve the tape with a mixed reagent (V(methanol):V(ethanol) = 1:1) for testing.

[0178] (3) Lipid content test: Detect the free fatty acid and ceramide contents of the sample solution according to the instructions of the detection kit.

[0179] The results are shown in Table 5.

[0180] Table 5

[0181]

[0182] The above experimental results show that after the body wash 16# of Example 1 is added and washed, the retention amounts of free fatty acids and ceramides are significantly higher than those of the blank body wash without the addition of the example. It shows that the examples of the present invention can reduce the removal amount of key sebum in the skin epidermis by the cleaning product.

Claims

1. A raw material composition of a bionic ester, characterized in that, It includes phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate, phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate, hydrogenated lecithin and polyol.

2. The raw material composition of the bionic ester according to claim 1, characterized in that, The raw material composition of the bionic ester satisfies one or more of the following conditions: (1) The melting point of the phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate is -40°C to 10°C, such as -30°C, -20°C or -10°C; (2) The viscosity of the phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate is 1000 mPa·s to 3000 mPa·s, such as 2300 mPa·s, 2500 mPa·s or 2800 mPa·s; (3) The melting point of the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate is 30°C to 60°C, such as 40°C, 50°C or 55°C; (4) The viscosity of the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate is 100 mPa·s to 1000 mPa·s, such as 200 mPa·s, 400 mPa·s, 500 mPa·s or 800 mPa·s; and, (5) The polyol is an alcohol containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms in the molecule, preferably an alcohol containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups in the molecule, more preferably one or more of glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and butanediol, such as butanediol.

3. The raw material composition of the bionic ester according to claim 1, characterized in that, The raw material composition of the bionic ester satisfies one or more of the following conditions: (1) The total mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate is 75% to 94%, preferably 90% to 94%, such as 91%, 92% or 93%; (2) The mass percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin is 1% to 20%, preferably 1% to 10%, such as 2% or 5%; (3) The mass percentage of the polyol is 5% to 20%, preferably 5% to 10%, such as 8%; (4) The mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate is 10% to 60%, preferably 12% to 50%, such as 12.5%, 16%, 30%, 37.5% or 47%; (5) The mass percentage of the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate is 10% to 60%, preferably 12% to 50%, such as 37.5%, 47%, 60%, 62.5% or 78%; The above mass percentages represent the percentages of the masses of the respective raw materials in the total mass of the raw material composition of the bionic ester; and, (6) The mass ratio of the phytosterol isostearyl dilinoleate to the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dilinoleate is 1:(1 - 5), preferably 1:(1 - 4.9), such as 1:2 or 1:4.

875.

4. A D-phase gel, characterized in that, It includes a hydrogenated lecithin solution containing polyols and an oil phase; the oil phase includes phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate and phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate.

5. The D-phase gel according to claim 4, characterized in that, The D-phase gel satisfies one or more of the following conditions: (1) The melting point of the phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate is -40°C to 10°C, such as -30°C, -20°C or -10°C; (2) The viscosity of the phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate is 1000 mPa·s to 3000 mPa·s, such as 2300 mPa·s, 2500 mPa·s or 2800 mPa·s; (3) The melting point of the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate is 30°C to 60°C, such as 40°C, 50°C or 55°C; (4) The viscosity of the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate is 100 mPa·s to 1000 mPa·s, such as 200 mPa·s, 400 mPa·s, 500 mPa·s or 800 mPa·s; and, (5) The polyol is an alcohol containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms in the molecule, preferably an alcohol containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups in the molecule, more preferably one or more of glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and butanediol, such as butanediol.

6. The D-phase gel according to claim 4, characterized in that, The D-phase gel satisfies one or more of the following conditions: (1) The total mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate and the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate is 75% to 94%, preferably 90% to 94%, such as 91%, 92% or 93%; (2) The mass percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin is 1% to 20%, preferably 1% to 10%, such as 2% or 5%; (3) The mass percentage of the polyol is 5% to 20%, preferably 5% to 10%, such as 8%; (4) The mass percentage of the phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate is 10% to 60%, preferably 12% to 50%, such as 12.5%, 16%, 30%, 37.5% or 47%; (5) The mass percentage of the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate is 10% to 60%, preferably 12% to 50%, such as 37.5%, 47%, 60%, 62.5% or 78%; The above mass percentages represent the percentages of the masses of the respective raw materials in the total mass of the raw materials of the D-phase gel; and, (6) The mass ratio of the phytosterol isostearyl dimer dilinoleate to the phytosterol / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate is 1:(1 - 5), preferably 1:(1 - 4.9), such as 1:2 or 1:4.

875.

7. A cosmetic, characterized in that, It includes the D-phase gel according to any one of claims 4 - 6.

8. The cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that, The cosmetic includes a phase A, a phase B and the D-phase gel; Among them, the A phase includes water, a humectant, a stabilizer, a surfactant, and a thickener; Among them, the B phase includes a pH regulator. Optionally, the B phase further includes a preservative.

9. The cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that, The cosmetic is a cleansing product, preferably a foaming cleansing product.

10. Use of a raw material composition of a bionic ester as described in any one of claims 1-3 or a D-phase gel as described in any one of claims 4-6 in a cosmetic.

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