Bionic skin barrier cream with three-layer phospholipid structure and preparation method of bionic skin barrier cream

Abstract

The invention relates to bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure and a preparation method of the bionic skin barrier cream, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, the bionic skin barrier cream comprises the following raw materials: lecithin, wax ester, triglyceride, composite ceramide, phytosterol oleate, squalane, an antioxidant, polyol, composite amino acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urea and arginine. A stabilizing agent, a treating agent and the balance of deionized water. The bionic skin barrier cream prepared by the invention has a three-layer phospholipid structure, and compared with a double-layer phospholipid structure in the market, the firmness and hydrophobicity of the double-layer structure are further improved by the added third-layer structure, so that the prepared bionic skin barrier cream has outstanding waterproof, sweat-resistant and light pollution-resistant effects; in addition, the wax ester, the triglyceride, the phytosterol oleate, the pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and the urea selected in the invention have a synergistic effect, and can generate excellent moisturizing and repairing effects and certain protection effects.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] As the largest organ in the human body, the skin is the first line of defense against external environmental aggressions. The integrity of the skin barrier is crucial to maintaining the normal physiological functions of the skin. Once the skin barrier is damaged, the skin loses its protection, leading to increased water loss, which in turn causes a series of problems such as dryness, itching, and redness of the skin. Therefore, to repair the damaged skin barrier, it is necessary to address the three key aspects of hydration, moisturizing, repair, and protection. However, the repair products currently available on the market are generally only based on repair, and the time cycle required is long and the effect is poor. Often, the dryness, stinging, itching, and erythema problems of the skin after using the products are not solved. In addition, there are an overabundance of repair products on the market, and most consumers blindly choose them, causing their skin to become sensitive or experiencing more severe redness, itching, and swelling.

[0003] Analysis of the epidermal structure reveals that the top layer is a mixture of substances composed of a sebum membrane. Therefore, for sensitive skin or skin with a damaged skin barrier, the most effective and direct treatment is to directly apply a bionic skin barrier cream to protect the skin from secondary irritation and damage from the external environment. Currently, skin barrier repair products on the market primarily achieve their efficacy by adding moisturizers and repair ingredients. However, the moisturizing effect of such products is generally unsatisfactory and it is difficult to achieve both repair and protective effects. Therefore, there is an urgent need to provide a skin barrier cream and its preparation method to address the above problems. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of this application is to provide a bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure and a preparation method thereof, which solves the problems of poor moisturizing, repairing and protecting effects in existing skin barrier cream technology.

[0005] The purpose of the present invention can be achieved through the following technical solutions:

[0006] The first aspect of the present application provides a bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure, which comprises the following raw materials by mass percentage:

[0007] Lecithin 2-6%, wax ester 5-10%, triglyceride 15-20%, complex ceramide 0.05-0.25%, phytosteryl oleate 0.1-2%, squalane 3-6%, antioxidant 0.05-0.5%, polyol 1-5%, complex amino acid 5-10%, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 3-5%, urea 1-3%, arginine 0.02-0.5%, stabilizer 0.1-0.5%, treatment agent 1-5%, balance: deionized water.

[0008] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the wax ester includes at least one of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and cetyl palmitate.

[0009] Preferably, the wax ester includes at least one of cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0010] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the triglyceride includes at least one of caprylic / capric triglyceride, triethylhexanoin, and ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0011] Preferably, the triglyceride comprises at least one of caprylic / capric triglyceride and ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0012] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the composite ceramide includes ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, and ceramide EOP.

[0013] Furthermore, the mass ratio of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, and ceramide EOP is 0.4:0.1:0.15:0.2.

[0014] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the antioxidant includes at least one of tocopherol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

[0015] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the polyol includes at least one of 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and glycerol.

[0016] Preferably, the polyols include butanediol and glycerol.

[0017] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the composite amino acid comprises the following components by mass percentage: 2.5% glycine, 2.5% serine, 1.5% alanine, 0.8% valine, 0.6% isoleucine, 0.7% leucine, 0.4% proline, 0.3% arginine, 0.3% aspartic acid, 0.05% glutamic acid, 0.3% threonine, 0.2% lysine, 0.11% histidine, 0.01% methionine, 0.01% tryptophan, 0.01% cystine, 0.01% tyrosine, and the balance: deionized water.

[0018] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the stabilizer includes at least one of carbomer, acrylic acid (esters) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylic acid (esters) copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylic acid (esters) / behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate copolymer, and polyacrylic acid.

[0019] Preferably, the stabilizer comprises carbomer and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

[0020] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the treating agent includes phospholipase A2.

[0021] The second aspect of the present application provides a method for preparing a bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure, which specifically comprises the following steps:

[0022] (1) mixing half the mass of lecithin, triglyceride, polyol, complex amino acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urea, stabilizer, arginine and deionized water, and homogenizing them by a homogenizer to obtain a double-layer phospholipid structure mixed solution;

[0023] (2) mixing the double-layer phospholipid structure mixed liquid with wax ester, complex ceramide, phytosterol oleate, squalane, and antioxidant, controlling the temperature and stirring evenly, homogenizing by a homogenizer three times, adding the remaining mass of lecithin and stirring again to obtain a three-layer phospholipid structure mixed liquid;

[0024] (3) filtering the three-layer phospholipid structure mixture through a supramolecular filtration membrane to obtain a target product, adding a treatment agent to the target product and stirring it to obtain a bionic skin barrier cream.

[0025] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the homogenization method in step (1) is to control the speed to 1500 rpm / min for homogenization for 3-5 minutes, then control the speed to 2000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3-5 minutes, and finally control the speed to 3000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3-5 minutes.

[0026] Preferably, the homogenization method is to control the speed at 1500 rpm / min for homogenization for 3 minutes, then control the speed at 2000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3 minutes, and finally control the speed at 3000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3 minutes.

[0027] As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the temperature of the temperature control in step (2) is 75-80°C; the homogenization method is to control the speed to 3000rpm / min and homogenize for 3-5min; and the stirring time is 3-5min.

[0028] Preferably, the homogenization method is to control the speed to 3000 rpm / min and homogenize for 3 minutes.

[0029] This is a preferred technical solution of the present invention, wherein the screening in step (3) is to screen out target products with a molecular weight range of 750-850 g / mol; and the stirring time is 3-5 min.

[0030] Beneficial effects of the present invention:

[0031] (1) Compared with traditional repair products, the bionic skin barrier cream prepared in this application has a three-layer phospholipid structure, which is equivalent to the second layer of skin of the human body. Compared with the double-layer phospholipid structure currently on the market, the third layer structure of this application further increases the firmness and hydrophobicity of the double-layer structure, and its hydrophobic fatty acid chain undergoes esterification exchange to achieve a "hand-in-hand" covalent bond stable structure of the hydrophobic fatty acid tail of the phospholipid, thereby achieving the protective effect of the outermost layer. Therefore, the bionic skin barrier cream prepared in this way has outstanding waterproof, anti-sweat and anti-light pollution effects;

[0032] In addition, it can maximize the residence time of the bionic skin barrier cream on the facial skin, and can fit more closely as the "second layer of skin" of the human body. Applying the bionic skin barrier cream prepared in this application directly on the skin with damaged skin barrier can bring timely, efficient and rapid repair effects, and can directly avoid secondary pollution and irritation from the external environment.

[0033] (2) The wax esters, triglycerides, phytosterol oleate, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea selected in this application have a synergistic effect, which can produce excellent moisturizing and repairing effects as well as certain protective effects. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0034] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the following briefly introduces the drawings required for describing the embodiments. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments of the present invention. For ordinary technicians in this field, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative work.

[0035] Figure 1 This is a 50,000x electron micrograph of the bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure prepared in Example 1 of the present application;

[0036] Figure 2 This is a 50,000x electron micrograph of the bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure prepared in Example 2 of the present application;

[0037] Figure 3 This is a 50,000-fold electron micrograph of the bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure prepared in Example 3 of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0038] The following will be combined with the embodiments of the present invention to clearly and completely describe the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the embodiments described are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making any creative efforts shall fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0039] The raw materials used in this application are all commercially available products, among which phospholipase A2 was purchased from Shanghai ELISA Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; the above will not be repeated in the following.

[0040] Examples 1-3

[0041] A bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure. The bionic skin barrier creams of Examples 1-3 respectively comprise the raw materials shown in Table 1 below, calculated by mass percentage:

[0042] Table 1 Raw material composition of bionic skin barrier cream of Examples 1-5

[0043]

[0044]

[0045] The above-mentioned composite ceramides are composed of ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, and ceramide EOP in a mass ratio of 0.4:0.1:0.15:0.2;

[0046] The above-mentioned composite amino acids include the following components in percentage by mass: 2.5% glycine, 2.5% serine, 1.5% alanine, 0.8% valine, 0.6% isoleucine, 0.7% leucine, 0.4% proline, 0.3% arginine, 0.3% aspartic acid, 0.05% glutamic acid, 0.3% threonine, 0.2% lysine, 0.11% histidine, 0.01% methionine, 0.01% tryptophan, 0.01% cystine, 0.01% tyrosine, and the balance: deionized water.

[0047] The preparation method of the bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure specifically comprises the following steps:

[0048] (1) mixing half the mass of lecithin, triglyceride, polyol, complex amino acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urea, stabilizer, arginine and deionized water, and homogenizing them by a homogenizer to obtain a double-layer phospholipid structure mixed solution;

[0049] The homogenization method is to control the speed to 1500 rpm / min for homogenization for 3 minutes, then control the speed to 2000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3 minutes, and finally control the speed to 3000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3 minutes;

[0050] (2) The double-layer phospholipid structure mixture was mixed with wax ester, complex ceramide, phytosterol oleate, squalane, and antioxidant, and the mixture was stirred evenly at 77°C. After homogenization by a homogenizer for 3 times, the remaining lecithin was added and stirred for another 4 minutes to obtain a three-layer phospholipid structure mixture;

[0051] The homogenization method is to control the speed to 3000 rpm / min and homogenize for 3 minutes;

[0052] (3) filtering the three-layer phospholipid structure mixture through a supramolecular filtration membrane to select a target product with a molecular weight range of 750-850 g / mol, adding a treatment agent to the target product and stirring for 4 minutes to obtain a bionic skin barrier cream;

[0053] Figure 1-3 They are 50,000-fold electron micrographs of the bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure prepared in Examples 1-3 of the present application.

[0054] Test Example 1

[0055] Repair efficacy test

[0056] Test method: 40 subjects aged 35-55 with healthy skin were randomly invited and divided into 4 groups, with 10 subjects in each group. A transepidermal moisture tester and a hemoglobin tester were used. The bionic skin barrier cream prepared in Examples 1-3 was used as the experimental group, and the commercially available Dr. Yu skin barrier repair cream was used as the control group. They were applied to the facial skin of each group of subjects respectively. During the experiment, the subjects could not apply any other cosmetics on the experimental site. Then, the transepidermal water loss value and hemoglobin content of the skin were recorded at 0h and 8h. During the measurement, the measurement was repeated 3 times in the same tested area and the average value was taken. The final result of each group was also averaged. The results are shown in Table 2-3.

[0057] Table 2 Transepidermal water loss test results

[0058]

[0059] Table 3 Heme content test results

[0060]

[0061] It can be seen from Tables 2 and 3 that the transepidermal water loss rate and hemoglobin content of Examples 1-3 after 8 hours are significantly lower than those of the commercially available Dr. Yu skin barrier repair cream. This is because the bionic skin barrier cream prepared in this application has a unique three-layer phospholipid molecular membrane structure, and therefore has a stronger moisturizing and repairing effect.

[0062] Test Example 2

[0063] Light protection efficacy test:

[0064] Blank group: blank cream, the blank cream composition is as follows:

[0065] Span 60: 0.8%, Tween 60: 1.2%, Mineral Oil: 4%, Ethylhexyl Palmitate: 2%, Dimethicone: 1%, Jojoba Seed Oil: 2%, Carbomer: 0.3%, Glycerin: 5%, Xanthan Gum: 0.1%, Sodium Hydroxide: 0.06%, p-Hydroxyacetophenone: 0.5%, 1,2-Hexanediol: 0.5%, Balance: Water;

[0066] Control group: Dr. Yu Skin Barrier Repair Cream;

[0067] Experimental group: bionic skin barrier cream prepared in Examples 1-3;

[0068] Test method: human epidermal skin cells (trade name: Skinovo-Epi, purchased from Hangzhou Genevitra Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) were cultured in a culture dish. The culture dish cover was made of UV-transparent material. Then, the blank group, control group, and experimental group products were applied in equal amounts on the top of the culture dish cover. The cells were then placed under a UV fluorescent lamp (10J / CM 2 The cells were irradiated with UVB for 0 h and 8 h respectively, and the degree of cell damage was observed using a fluorescence microscope and software analysis to characterize the cell damage rate. The test was performed three times and the average value was taken to provide feedback on the light protection efficacy. The results are shown in Table 4.

[0069] Table 4. Number of cells in culture dishes

[0070]

[0071] It can be seen from the data in Table 4 that the cell reduction rates of the blank group and the control group are significantly higher than those of Examples 1-3. Therefore, it can be seen that the light protection effect of the bionic skin barrier cream prepared by the present invention is significantly better than that of the blank group and the control group products.

[0072] Test Example 3

[0073] Water and sweat resistance test

[0074] Blank group: blank cream, the blank cream composition is as follows:

[0075] Span 60: 0.8%, Tween 60: 1.2%, Mineral Oil: 4%, Ethylhexyl Palmitate: 2%, Dimethicone: 1%, Jojoba Seed Oil: 2%, Carbomer: 0.3%, Glycerin: 5%, Xanthan Gum: 0.1%, Sodium Hydroxide: 0.06%, p-Hydroxyacetophenone: 0.5%, 1,2-Hexanediol: 0.5%, Balance: Water;

[0076] Control group: Dr. Yu Skin Barrier Repair Cream;

[0077] Experimental group: bionic skin barrier cream prepared in Examples 1-3;

[0078] Test method: Apply equal amounts of blank group, control group and experimental group products to the belly of mice (2*2cm) 2 The same amount of artificial sweat was then applied to the area, and then calibrated with the isotope 14C. The applied area was then rinsed with running water at the same flow rate and flow rate for 20 minutes, and allowed to dry naturally. The cycle was repeated three times, and the average value was taken. The remaining area covered by the products in the blank group, control group, and experimental group was then observed using a fluorescence microscope. The area size of the isotope-labeled 14C was analyzed by mass spectrometry to characterize the water-proof and sweat-proof effects. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0079] Table 5 14 Peak area calibrated by C (water resistance)

[0080]

[0081] It can be seen from the data in Table 5 that the peak area reduction rates of the blank group and control group products after washing are significantly lower than those of the products in Examples 1-3. Therefore, it can be seen that the water-resistant effect of the bionic skin barrier cream prepared by the present invention is significantly better than that of the blank group and control group products.

[0082] Table 6 14 Peak area calibrated by C (anti-sweat)

[0083]

[0084]

[0085] It can be seen from the data in Table 6 that the peak area reduction rates of the blank group and the control group products after washing are significantly lower than those of the products in Examples 1-3. Therefore, it can be seen that the anti-sweat effect of the bionic skin barrier cream prepared by the present invention is significantly better than that of the blank group and the control group products.

[0086] Throughout the specification, references to terms such as "one embodiment," "example," or "specific example" indicate that the specific features, structures, materials, or characteristics described in conjunction with that embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present invention. In this specification, schematic representations of these terms do not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Furthermore, the specific features, structures, materials, or characteristics described may be combined in any suitable manner in any one or more embodiments or examples.

[0087] The above content is merely an example and explanation of the concept of the present invention. Those skilled in the art may make various modifications or additions to the described specific embodiments or replace them in a similar manner. As long as they do not deviate from the concept of the invention or exceed the scope defined by the claims, they should all fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure, characterized in that: Calculated by mass percentage, it includes the following raw materials: Lecithin 2-6%, wax ester 5-10%, triglyceride 15-20%, complex ceramide 0.05-0.25%, phytosteryl oleate 0.1-2%, squalane 3-6%, antioxidant 0.05-0.5%, polyol 1-5%, complex amino acid 5-10%, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 3-5%, urea 1-3%, arginine 0.02-0.5%, stabilizer 0.1-0.5%, treatment agent 1-5%, balance: deionized water.

2. The bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The wax ester includes at least one of cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

3. The bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The triglyceride includes at least one of caprylic / capric triglyceride and ethylhexyl palmitate.

4. The bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The composite ceramide comprises ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide NS, and ceramide EOP in a mass ratio of 0.4:0.1:0.15:0.

2.

5. The bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The antioxidant includes at least one of tocopherol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

6. The bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The polyol includes butylene glycol and glycerol; the stabilizer includes carbomer and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; and the treating agent includes phospholipase A2.

7. The bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 1, characterized in that: The composite amino acid comprises the following components by mass percentage: 2.5% glycine, 2.5% serine, 1.5% alanine, 0.8% valine, 0.6% isoleucine, 0.7% leucine, 0.4% proline, 0.3% arginine, 0.3% aspartic acid, 0.05% glutamic acid, 0.3% threonine, 0.2% lysine, 0.11% histidine, 0.01% methionine, 0.01% tryptophan, 0.01% cystine, and 0.01% tyrosine, and the balance is deionized water.

8. A method for preparing a bionic skin barrier cream having a three-layer phospholipid structure according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that: The specific steps include: (1) mixing half the mass of lecithin, triglyceride, polyol, complex amino acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urea, stabilizer, arginine and deionized water, and homogenizing them by a homogenizer to obtain a double-layer phospholipid structure mixed solution; (2) mixing the double-layer phospholipid structure mixed liquid with wax ester, complex ceramide, phytosterol oleate, squalane, and antioxidant, controlling the temperature and stirring evenly, homogenizing by a homogenizer three times, adding the remaining mass of lecithin and stirring again to obtain a three-layer phospholipid structure mixed liquid; (3) filtering the three-layer phospholipid structure mixture through a supramolecular filtration membrane to obtain a target product, adding a treatment agent to the target product and stirring it to obtain a bionic skin barrier cream.

9. The method for preparing the bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 8, characterized in that: The homogenization method in step (1) is to control the speed at 1500 rpm / min for homogenization for 3-5 minutes, then control the speed at 2000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3-5 minutes, and finally control the speed at 3000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3-5 minutes; the temperature of step (2) is controlled at 75-80°C; the homogenization method is to control the speed at 3000 rpm / min for homogenization for 3-5 minutes; and the stirring time is 3-5 minutes.

10. The method for preparing the bionic skin barrier cream with a three-layer phospholipid structure according to claim 8, characterized in that: The screening in step (3) is to screen out the target product with a molecular weight range of 750-850 g / mol; the stirring time is 3-5 min.

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