Compositions for caring for keratin materials

Abstract

A composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, in an aqueous phase: (i) xanthan gum; (ii) at least one sphingosine exopolysaccharide; and (iii) at least 0.5 mmol / L, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one salt-type cosmetic active ingredient.

Description

Technical Field The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials. Background Art The skin is a protective barrier of the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi). The epidermis is a stratified pavimentousepithelium. Its average thickness ranges from 60 to 100 μm and can reach 600 to 700 μm on the soles of the feet and palms. It is mainly composed of keratinocytes, but other cells are also present and are located on the basement membrane that separates it from the dermis.

[0003] During menopause, the skin undergoes changes in all its parts (i.e., the dermis and epidermis). The development of formulations dedicated to skin care is ongoing.

[0004] Some cosmetic products contain active ingredients of the salt type for skin care. For example, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, magnesium sulfate and sodium hyaluronate of low molecular weight can be used as active ingredients of the salt type.

[0005] However, for some cosmetic products containing a relatively high amount of active ingredients of the salt type, it will be difficult to stably suspend the salt in the system; at the same time, there will be a risk of noodling.

[0006] Therefore, there is still a need to formulate a composition for caring for keratin materials containing a relatively high amount of active ingredients of the salt type, in which the salt contained can be stably suspended in the system and there is no risk of noodling. Summary of the Invention The inventors have now found that it is possible to formulate a composition for caring for keratin materials containing a relatively high amount of active ingredients of the salt type, in which the salt contained can be stably suspended in the system and there is no risk of noodling.

[0008] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials, which comprises in an aqueous phase: (i) xanthan gum; (ii) at least one sphingan exopolysaccharide; and (iii) at least 0.5 mmol / L of at least one cosmetic active ingredient of the salt type relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0009] The composition according to the present invention can be used to care for keratin materials due to the presence of at least one cosmetic active ingredient of the salt type.

[0010] The inventors have found that the compositions according to the invention will have no pilling problem when applied to keratin materials, and the salts contained therein will be stably suspended in the system.

[0011] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, which comprises applying a composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to keratin materials.

[0012] Other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples. Detailed Description of the Invention Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. When the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the commonly understood meaning by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0014] Hereinafter and unless otherwise specified, the upper and lower limits of a numerical range are included within the range, particularly in the expressions "between... and..." and "... to...".

[0015] Furthermore, the expression "at least one / species" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one / species or more".

[0016] Throughout this application, the term "comprising / including" shall be interpreted to cover all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising / including" also discloses embodiments in which there are no features other than the specifically mentioned features (i.e., "consisting of...").

[0017] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values representing amounts of ingredients etc. used in the specification and claims shall be understood to be modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that can vary as desired depending on the required purpose.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover hair, human skin and mucous membranes (such as lips). Facial skin is most particularly contemplated according to the present invention.

[0019] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages in the present invention refer to percentages by weight.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention for caring for keratin materials comprises in an aqueous phase: (i) xanthan gum; (ii) at least one sphingosyl exopolysaccharide; and (iii) at least one salt-type cosmetic active ingredient at least 0.5 mmol / L relative to the total volume of the composition.

[0021] Xanthan Gum According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises xanthan gum.

[0022] Xanthan gum is a high molecular weight polysaccharide or hydrocolloid (also called gum) produced by fermentation of various species of the genus Xanthomonas, such as X. carotae, X. campestris, X. incanae, X. begoniae, and X. malvacearum. Xanthan gum may contain three different monosaccharides in salt form (e.g., in sodium salt form), namely, mannose, glucose, and glucuronic acid, in its structure.

[0023] For an aqueous composition containing 1% KCl and 1% xanthan gum, xanthan gum may have a viscosity, for example, in the range of 800 to 2000 cps (measured at 60 rpm using an LVT type Brookfield viscometer at 25 °C). It has a molecular weight in the range of, for example, 1,000,000 to 50,000,000.

[0024] More particularly preferred xanthan gums are KELTROL sold by KELCO, whose 1% aqueous solution containing 1% KCL has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm in the range of 800 to 1700 cps; KELZAN S sold by KELCO, whose 1% aqueous solution has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm of 1000 cP; Rhodopol 23, 23U, and 23C sold by Rhone - Poulenc, whose 1% aqueous solution containing 1% KCl has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm in the range of 1200 - 1800 cps; Deuteron XG sold by Schoner GmbH., whose 1% aqueous solution has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 30 rpm of 2400 cps; and Actigum CX9 sold by CECA, whose 1% aqueous solution has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 30 rpm of 1200 cps; KELZANK9C57 sold by KELCO, whose 11% aqueous solution has a Brookfield LVT viscosity at 60 rpm in the range of 630 to 1,000 cP.

[0025] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, the amount of xanthan gum present in the composition ranges from 0.05 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.15 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%.

[0026] Sphingosine Exopolysaccharide According to a first aspect, a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one sphingoglycan exopolysaccharide.

[0027] The terms "sphingoglycan exopolysaccharide" and "sphingoglycan" are used interchangeably herein. Sphingoglycan is a bioadhesive that can be produced by bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas.

[0028] Sphingoglycan is a structurally related bacterial exopolysaccharide produced by members of the genus Sphingomonas. Sphingoglycan exopolysaccharides can be produced (i.e., obtained) by fermenting carbohydrates with bacteria of the genus Sphingomonas. The most commonly known sphingoglycans include gellan gum, welan gum, rhamsan gum, and diutan gum, and these exhibit excellent rheological properties. Sphingoglycans are structurally related by a backbone containing the sugars D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose (or L-mannose), but differ in the nature and position of their side chains and in the presence or absence of acyl groups. Structural details of sphingoglycans can be found in the literature, such as the book by Glaeser S.P., Kampfer P. (2014) The Family Sphingomonadaceae; and Rosenberg E., DeLong E.F., Lory S., Stackebrandt E., Thompson F. (eds.), The Prokaryotes, Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. At least one sphingoglycan exopolysaccharide is preferably selected from gellan gum, welan gum, diutan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Preferably, at least one sphingoglycan exopolysaccharide is selected from gellan gum, welan gum, and diutan gum, or combinations thereof.

[0030] Welan gum is a bioadhesive that can be produced by fermenting carbohydrates with bacteria from the genus Alcaligenes or the genus Sphingomonas. More specifically, welan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced (i.e., obtained) by fermenting carbohydrates with bacteria from the genus Alcaligenes or the genus Sphingomonas. Welan gum is a polymer having a repeating tetrasaccharide backbone containing L-mannose, L-rhamnose, D-glucose, and D-glucuronic acid. In a particular embodiment, welan gum is obtained by fermenting carbohydrates with bacteria from the genus Sphingomonas.

[0031] Gellan gum is a biogum produced by bacterial fermentation of the species Sphingomonas elodea. Gellan gum is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea. More specifically, gellan gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced (i.e., obtained) by bacterial fermentation of carbohydrates by the species Sphingomonas elodea. It is a polymer having a tetrasaccharide as a repeating unit, which tetrasaccharide is composed of two residues of D-glucose, and one residue each of L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

[0032] Dingyou gum (also known as heteropolysaccharide S-657) is a biogum produced by fermentation of a bacterial strain from the genus Shingomonas (e.g., a bacterial strain from the genus Shingomonas deposited with the American Type Culture Collection (ATCC) under the accession number ATCC 53159). More specifically, dingyou gum is an exopolysaccharide that can be produced (i.e., obtained) by fermentation of carbohydrates by a bacterium from the genus Shingomonas (and in particular a bacterial strain from the genus Shingomonas having the accession number ATCC 53159). Dingyou gum typically exhibits a hexamer repeating unit, which is composed of four sugars (glucose-glucuronic acid-glucose-rhamnose) in the main chain and a side chain of two rhamnose residues attached to one of the glucose residues. A non-limiting example of commercially available dingyou gum is Kelcocare from CP Kelco TM Dingyou gum. Dingyou gum is also commonly referred to as S-657 polysaccharide.

[0033] More preferably, the composition comprises a sphingan exopolysaccharide selected from welan gum, dingyou gum, or a combination thereof.

[0034] Most preferably, the composition comprises dingyou gum as the sphingan exopolysaccharide.

[0035] Advantageously, based on the total weight of the composition according to the present invention, the amount of the sphingan exopolysaccharide present in the composition ranges from 0.05 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%, preferably from 0.06 wt.% to 0.2 wt.%.

[0036] Advantageously, the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the sphingan exopolysaccharide is between 1.3:1 and 4:1, preferably between 1.5:1 and 3:1.

[0037] Cosmetic Active Ingredients of Salt Type According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient in the form of a salt.

[0038] The cosmetic active ingredient in the form of a salt is not particularly limited. It may be selected from active ingredients in the form of salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, for example, anti - redness agents, anti - inflammatory agents, and the like.

[0039] As examples of active ingredients in the form of salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, zinc salts, calcium salts, and the like can be mentioned.

[0040] Thus, according to some embodiments, the cosmetic active ingredient in the form of a salt is selected from sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, zinc salts, calcium salts, or combinations thereof for caring for keratin materials such as the skin.

[0041] In particular, as examples of sodium salts for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium azulene sulfonate, sodium ascorbate, and the like can be mentioned.

[0042] As an example of a potassium salt for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, and the like can be mentioned.

[0043] As an example of a magnesium salt for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and the like can be mentioned.

[0044] As an example of a zinc salt for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, zinc gluconate, and the like can be mentioned.

[0045] As an example of a calcium salt for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, calcium chloride, and the like can be mentioned.

[0046] In some embodiments, the cosmetic active ingredient in the form of a salt is selected from sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium azulene sulfonate, sodium ascorbate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, zinc gluconate, calcium chloride, or combinations thereof.

[0047] Those skilled in the art can easily adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the form of a salt based on the desired use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0048] Advantageously, the weight ratio of chitosan extracellular polysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient in the form of a salt is between 0.04:1 and 0.2:1, preferably between 0.05:1 and 0.15:1.

[0049] Aqueous Phase The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0050] The aqueous phase contains water.

[0051] Optionally, the aqueous phase contains an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature of 25 °C) to provide a hydration effect. The organic solvent is selected from ethanol; diols and polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, octyldiethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the amount of water present in the composition ranges from 60 wt.% to 90 wt.%, preferably from 65 wt.% to 88 wt.%.

[0053] Oil Phase The composition of the present invention may contain an oil phase.

[0054] The oil phase contains at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0055] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0056] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0057] The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure is not zero and is less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating within less than one hour upon contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0059] The oil phase may contain hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0060] They can have an animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and especially at least one Si-O group.

[0062] The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0063] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0064] The oil may optionally contain oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0065] Advantageously, if present, the amount of the oil phase in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0066] The inventors have found that if oil is present in the composition according to the invention, the oil will not leak out of the system.

[0067] Additional Cosmetic Active Ingredients The composition according to the invention may comprise additional cosmetic active ingredients.

[0068] As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of humectants such as proteolysates; plant extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficus-indica flower extract); vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and derivatives (especially esters) of said vitamins, and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; firming agents; agents acting on microcirculation; and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Those skilled in the art can easily adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredients based on the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0070] Additional Auxiliaries or Additives The composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives such as pH regulators, surfactants, other thickeners, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Those skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additives so that it does not adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0072] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the invention provides a composition for skin care which, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprises in the aqueous phase: (i) 0.15 wt.% to 0.3 wt.% of xanthan gum; (ii) 0.06 wt.% to 0.2 wt.% of gellan gum; and (iii) at least 0.5 mmol / L of at least one active ingredient of the salt type, wherein the weight ratio of xanthan gum to exopolysaccharide of sphingosamine is between 1.3:1 and 4:1; the weight ratio of exopolysaccharide of sphingosamine to the cosmetic active ingredient of the salt type is between 0.04:1 and 0.2:1.

[0073] Galenic Forms and Methods The composition of the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a homogeneous aqueous system.

[0074] The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin.

[0075] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for the skin, which comprises applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to keratin materials, especially the skin.

[0076] The following examples are used to illustrate the present invention, but are not limiting in nature. Examples The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1. Table 1

[0078] Examples 1 - 5 and Comparative Examples 1 - 5 of the Invention The compositions of Invention Examples (IE) 1-5 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1-5 are prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given as weight % based on the total weight of the composition for the active ingredients. Table 2

[0079] Preparation method: Taking the composition of Invention Example 1 as an example, the compositions listed above are prepared as follows: 1). Under stirring, xanthan gum, gellan gum and sodium hyaluronate are added to water at 50 °C in a main beaker; 2). Under stirring, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, magnesium sulfate and coconut (cocos nucifera) oil are added to the main beaker to obtain the composition.

[0080] Evaluation Suspension Properties The suspension properties of the compositions to be tested are evaluated as follows.

[0081] Approximately 20 g of the sample to be evaluated is placed in a centrifuge tube and centrifuged at 900 r / min for 1 hour at room temperature (25 °C).

[0082] The centrifuged sample is compared with the original sample in terms of appearance. If the centrifuged sample is the same as the original sample (homogeneous phase), it will be considered to pass the suspension test. If the centrifuged sample is different from the original sample (e.g., separated into two phases or precipitation occurs), it will be considered to fail the suspension test.

[0083] Risk of PillingThe risk of pilling of each prepared composition was evaluated by a sensory expert through special gestures as follows: 1) Apply 0.2 ml of the sample to be evaluated on one side of the face; 2) Bend the fingers; and 3) Slide the knuckles across the skin of the subject using slight pressure.

[0084] If no noodle-like substances are observed or a small amount of noodle-like substances are observed (with a size less than 0.5 cm and a quantity less than 5), the test sample will be considered to pass the pilling test. If medium-sized or a large number of noodle-like substances are present (e.g., with a size greater than 0.5 cm or a quantity exceeding 5), the test sample will be considered to fail the pilling test.

[0085] The results regarding whether the test composition passed the suspension test or the pilling test are summarized in Table 3. Table 3 IE.1 IE.2 IE.3 IE.4 IE.5 CE.1 CE.2 CE.3 CE.4 CE.5 Suspension Test Passed Passed Passed Passed Passed Failed Failed Passed Failed Failed Pilling Test Passed Passed Passed Passed Passed Passed Passed Failed Passed Passed

[0086] The following conclusion can be drawn: The composition of the present invention can pass the suspension test and has no risk of pilling.

Claims

1. A composition for caring for keratin materials, which comprises in an aqueous phase: (i) xanthan gum; (ii) at least one sphingosyl exopolysaccharide; and (iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient of a salt type at least 0.5 mmol / L relative to the total volume of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, as measured using a Brookfield viscometer at 60 rpm at 25°C, for an aqueous composition containing 1% KCl and 1% xanthan gum, the viscosity range of xanthan gum is 800 to 2000 cps.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the molecular weight range of xanthan gum is from 1,000,000 to 50,000,000.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of xanthan gum present ranges from 0.05 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.15 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the sphingosyl exopolysaccharide is selected from gellan gum, welan gum and diutan gum, or a combination thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the sphingosyl exopolysaccharide is diutan gum.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the sphingosyl exopolysaccharide present ranges from 0.05 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%, preferably from 0.06 wt.% to 0.2 wt.%.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the sphingosyl exopolysaccharide is between 1.3:1 and 4:1, preferably between 1.5:1 and 3:

1.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient of the salt type is selected from sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, zinc salts or combinations thereof for caring for keratin materials.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient of the salt type is selected from sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium azulene sulfonate, sodium ascorbate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, zinc gluconate, calcium chloride, or combinations thereof.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the weight ratio of the sphingosyl exopolysaccharide to the cosmetic active ingredient of the salt type is between 0.04:1 and 0.2:1, preferably between 0.05:1 and 0.15:

1.

12. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises, in the aqueous phase, based on the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.15 wt.% to 0.3 wt.% of xanthan gum; (ii) 0.06 wt.% to 0.2 wt.% of gellan gum; and (iii) at least 0.5 mmol / L of at least one salt-type cosmetic active ingredient, wherein the weight ratio of xanthan gum to the extracellular polysaccharide of sphingosamine is between 1.3:1 and 4:1; the weight ratio of the extracellular polysaccharide of sphingosamine to the salt-type cosmetic active ingredient is between 0.04:1 and 0.2:

1.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a homogeneous aqueous system.

14. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, which comprises applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratin materials.

Images