Hair dye comprising bioactive glass

Abstract

Colors, in particular hair dyes, typically comprise ammonia, which when applied produce an unpleasant odor and cause irritation to the skin, hair and lungs. Using existing ammonia substitutes, dyeing properties or dyeing persistence are typically weak. In order to solve the above-mentioned problem, the present invention proposes a coloring agent comprising an alkalizing agent for expanding the hair cuticles and / or expanding the hair and / or skin, the alkalizing agent comprising or consisting of bioactive glass particles.

Description

Field of the Invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a coloring agent In particular, a hair dye, and also relates to the use of alternative alkalizing agents in cosmetic preparations, in particular for coloring keratin fibers Background Art

[0002] Keratin fibers are the main component of mammalian hair (such as wool, fur, feathers, human hair and skin). The term "hair dye" is used hereinafter for the sake of brevity of language and is not limited to hair. Additionally, the term "hair dye" is used as a collective term for "true hair dyes for coloring hair" and "skin dyes for coloring skin". In the context of the present invention, the term "coloring" is understood in a broad sense as "color change", covering both adding color to keratin fibers and reducing the color present in keratin fibers

[0003] Coloring agents for coloring keratin fibers (especially hair and / or skin) can be divided into different groups, especially according to their coloring mechanism and durability during washing (for example when washing with a surfactant-containing cleaning agent). Different groups are described hereinafter by taking hair dyes as an example. This also applies to skin dyes for coloring the keratin present in the skin

[0004] Hereinafter, the term "dye" is generally used, which term covers dyes in the narrow sense, i.e., soluble dyes (Farbstoffe) and insoluble pigments (Pigmente). A person skilled in the art knows which dye should be applied in different coloring agents

[0005] Hair dyes, their different mechanisms of action and suitable dyes are well known, for example S.A. Da Franca, M.F. Dario, V.B. Esteves, A.R. Baby, M.V.R. Velasco, "Types of Hair Dye and Their Mechanisms of Action", Cosmetics 2015, 2(2), 110 - 126

[0006] Regarding non-oxidative hair dyes, hair is colored using dyes (such as so-called direct dyes), which can only attach to the negatively charged outer layer of hair by surface attachment due to their positive charge (temporary coloring), or penetrate the hair cuticle and attach to hair keratin due to their small molecules (semi-permanent coloring). During non-oxidative hair coloring, the pigments of natural hair are not destroyed or chemically changed, but are masked by the applied dyes

[0007] Temporary coloring is mainly based on the electrostatic attraction between the negatively charged outer layer of the hair and the majority of cationic dyes added by the coloring agent. However, this interaction is not strong and can be terminated by the next hair wash. This mechanism of action is significantly different from semi-permanent or permanent hair coloring.

[0008] In semi-permanent coloring, the dye molecules or pigments not only adhere to the hair surface but also diffuse onto the scales of the outer layer of the hair, also known as the "cuticle", due to their small molecules. There, they are either uncharged or only weakly bound to the charge, so the coloring durability is limited to a few hair washes, depending on the hair structure and the product, up to about 12 hair washes. Semi-permanent coloring agents also include natural coloring agents based on plant ingredients, such as henna, chamomile, bark extracts, etc.

[0009] Temporary and semi-permanent coloring agents are physically discoloring coloring agents because the dyes are physically bound to and / or in the hair.

[0010] Regarding permanent hair dyes, the natural hair pigments also undergo chemical changes, so the color change is permanent, that is, the color cannot be washed off by a regular hair wash. In permanent hair coloring, an oxidation process is usually used, so the coloring products used are also called oxidation coloring agents or oxidative coloring agents. In the context of the present invention, oxidation hair dyes include fading agents and bleaching agents that can fade or oxidatively destroy the natural pigments, thereby producing a golden color; they also include semi-permanent hair dyes that have the function of combining permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes, also known as "intense coloring" or "coloring". Some permanent coloring concepts have also been proposed in the literature, such as those based on reactive dyes that bind to the functional groups of the hair or those based on the formation of azo dyes from precursors.

[0011] Permanent hair dyes can be single-component or multi-component dyes, especially two-component dyes. What all these dyes have in common is that an alkalizing agent is needed to open up the hair structure, and an oxidizing agent is also needed to modify the natural hair pigments and / or to generate or bind the desired color. Since oxidative hair dyes have strong colors, long-lasting dyeing effects, and their dyeing mechanisms are well-known, oxidative hair dyes are used (see, for example, z.B.O.J.X.Morel, R.M. Christie, “Current Trends in the Chemistry of Permanent Hair Dyeing”, Chem. Rev. 2011, 111, 2537-2561.; A. Towns, “A review of developments in industrial hair colorant actives for oxidative dyes”, Coloration Technology 2021, 137, 301-335).

[0012] In the context of applying single-component dyes, for example, at least one dye (such as a dye containing synthetic melanin or other easily oxidizable dyes) can be applied to the hair, and this dye reacts with atmospheric oxygen either alone or through a catalyst (such as manganese sulfate) to form a natural-like dye. In particular, this may have advantages when dyeing gray hair. This type of dye is also called a “self-oxidizing dye”, and a relatively high pH value is not required for dyeing. However, the higher the pH value, the faster and deeper the dye penetrates into the hair, and thus it cannot be easily washed off. This mechanism of action has its limitations for people with dark hair (red, brown, black), and as described below, oxidative dye precursors are necessary.

[0013] Generally, oxidative hair dyes or permanent hair dyes are multi-component products, commonly two-component products, in which the active substances, auxiliaries, and additives are dispersed in several components and mixed to form a ready-to-use hair dye. In two-component products, the “first component” (also called the “coloring component”) contains at least one coloring agent, and the “second component” (also called the “oxidizing component”) contains an oxidizing agent to form the color. These components (especially the coloring component and the oxidizing component) must be mixed together before application.

[0014] Oxidative hair dyes usually cause chemical color changes and contain various active substances, auxiliaries, and additives. Auxiliaries and additives include, for example, viscosity regulators, carriers, solubilizers, fragrances, etc.

[0015] Common active substances in the coloring component of a dye are the coloring agent - with the exception of so-called bleaching agents (see below). The coloring agent in an oxidative dye is also referred to as the "coloring component" and mainly includes dye precursors (also known as chromogens or precursors), which are characterized by being easily oxidized, may also include toners (i.e., dyes or pigments that slightly change the hue), and may also include direct dyes known to those skilled in the art.

[0016] Dye precursors, usually light-colored or colorless, penetrate into the interior of the hair due to their small molecules. Chemical color change is also known as oxidative dyeing because "color development" requires an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, atmospheric oxygen, special enzymes, amino compounds, etc. Under the action of the oxidizing agent, the dye precursors react with each other or couple with one or more coupler components to form the final dye or pigment, and these products cannot be washed out of the hair again due to their large molecules and poor water solubility.

[0017] An oxidizing agent, especially hydrogen peroxide, has a dual function in permanent dyes, especially when used at a relatively high concentration, for example, the hydrogen peroxide content is >4 wt.%. Part of the hydrogen peroxide lightens the color of natural or artificial hair, while the other part of the hydrogen peroxide is required for the coloring process, that is, to form artificial dyes in the hair. When the content of hydrogen peroxide is low (for example, 1% to 4%), the bleaching effect is poor, and basically only artificial dyes are formed in the hair. In two-component dyes, the oxidizing substance generally exists in the second component of the dye.

[0018] To achieve the best dyeing effect, the oxidative dye is adjusted to an alkaline pH value range of 8 to 11. For this purpose, the dye contains an alkalizing agent as an active substance - in the case of a two-component dye, the alkalizing agent is usually in the coloring component. The alkalizing agent causes the hair cuticle to open and the hair to swell, so that the coloring components (such as dye precursors, toners, and direct dyes) penetrate into the interior of the hair. During this process, these coloring components react with the oxidizing agent and are oxidized into composite dyes or oligomers with larger molecules, and this dye or oligomer is difficult to dissolve in water or has restricted diffusion due to the increase in its molecular size. Part of the generated dye can form a chemical bond with hair keratin. The dye precursor undergoes an oxidation reaction by the oxidizing agent to produce a dye or artificial pigment. To achieve the required oxidation reaction, the pH value usually needs to be increased.

[0019] Ammonia can be used as an alkalizing agent to adjust the pH value of existing dyes. Currently, the disadvantage of permanent dyes using amino alkalizing agents (such as ammonium hydroxide) is that they cause an unpleasant smell during application due to ammonia, the ammonia released during application stimulates the skin and eyes, and also stimulates the lungs when inhaled. In addition, traditional alkalizing agents have a negative impact on the hair structure because hair swelling also allows other molecules to penetrate into the interior of the hair, which may cause potential allergies. This also applies to amino skin dyes.

[0020] Existing ammonia-free oxidative hair dyes, for example, use amines such as monoethanolamine (e.g., 2-ethanolamine) alone as an alkalizing agent, or use other alkalizing agents such as amino acids, oligopeptides, acyl amino acid derivatives in combination. For example, refer to patent documents EP 2178492 B1, US2014 / 0082856 A1, US2012 / 0180231A1, DE 19527121 A1. However, the coloring power of this ammonia-free oxidative hair dye may be weaker than that of amino oxidative hair dyes. It has also been shown that the dyeing durability on hair is relatively low, so it has to be dyed more frequently. Summary of the Invention

[0021] The object of the present invention is to provide a hair dye that overcomes the above-mentioned drawbacks, especially a hair dye. Such a hair dye should have no unpleasant odor, minimize irritation as much as possible, and advantageously improve coloring power, color intensity, wash resistance and light resistance. In addition, the object of the present invention is to provide an alternative to existing alkalizing agents for cosmetic preparations, especially for keratin fiber dyeing.

[0022] To achieve the above object, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a hair dye, especially a hair dye, comprising an alkalizing agent for opening hair cuticles and / or swelling hair and / or skin, and the alkalizing agent comprises or consists of bioactive glass particles.

[0023] Regarding oxidative hair dyes (hair dyes), bioactive glass particles, as an alkalizing agent, have the function of catalyzing or initiating the coupling reaction with dye precursors.

[0024] Preferably, the hair dye according to the present invention is suitable for dyeing human hair and / or skin, so it is a hair dye. According to the definition provided above, the term "hair dye" can also be a "skin dye". However, it can also be used to dye other keratin fibers, such as fur, wool and feathers, and can also be used to dye other substrates.

[0025] As a real hair dye, a favorable hair dye colors the hair. As a skin dye, a favorable skin dye colors the skin, or according to the application site, it can also color the hair at that site. For example, the skin dye according to the present invention can be used to color the skin in the eyebrow area, thereby changing the optical impression, such as making the hair grow thicker.

[0026] As an alkalizing agent, the colorant according to the present invention comprises bioactive glass particles or consists of bioactive glass particles. Bioactive glass particles refer to particles containing bioactive glass or consisting of bioactive glass. In the context of the present invention, bioactive glass particles can unexpectedly be used as an alkalizing agent in a colorant because such particles react in water, releasing ions and thus increasing the pH value. As an alkalizing agent in a hair colorant, such particles open the hair cuticle and swell the hair. As an alkalizing agent in a skin colorant, the skin is swollen. Thus, in the context of the present invention, bioactive glass particles perform the function of ammonia and / or well-known ammonia substitutes. In other words, in the context of the present invention, bioactive glass particles are an alkalizing agent that replaces ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes, which will be described in detail hereinafter. In this way, problems such as unpleasant odors and irritation of the skin, eyes, and lungs during use are reduced. On the other hand, bioactive glass can be used to targetedly adjust the pH value of hair or skin, for example, by changing the use concentration, so that coloring is gentler on the skin and hair.

[0027] Ammonia and ammonia substitutes are well-known alkalizing agents in colorants, especially hair colorants. "Ammonia substitute" refers to a substance in a colorant that has an equivalent effect to ammonia (i.e., the same effect). Preferably, the ammonia substitute is selected from the group consisting of: amines (such as monoethanolamine (such as 2-ethanolamine)), amino acids, oligopeptides, and acyl amino acid derivatives.

[0028] For example, the alkalizing agents listed in the patent document DE 102007033091 A1 include: ammonia; organic amines such as monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, triethanolamine, and ammonium; hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, silicates (especially metasilicates), and basic phosphates of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals.

[0029] As is well known, the alkalizing agent determines the pH value of the dye as a whole. Usually, the pH value is set to 8 to 11. However, a favorable dye containing bioactive glass particles can have a neutral pH value. In the context of the present invention, this refers to a pH value range of 6 to <8, preferably 6.5 to 7.5. The reason is that bioactive glass is reactive. When specific bioactive glass particles come into contact with hair and / or skin, the local pH value is biased towards alkalinity, thereby causing the hair cuticle to open or the hair and / or skin to expand and / or react to form color, while the pH value of the dye as a whole is neutral. In this variant, the bioactive glass particles play the role of a local alkalizing agent. Therefore, the bioactive glass particles are favorable local alkalizing agents. When the term "alkalizing agent" refers to bioactive glass particles, it does not mean that the dye must have an alkaline pH value as a whole when applied, which is different from existing alkalizing agents. It is speculated that the reason for this effect is that bioactive glass particles show a high affinity for keratin fibers, resulting in an increase in the pH value, especially locally in the hair or skin, while the pH value of the dye as a whole is neutral or weakly alkaline. In this way, skin irritation is reduced when using the favorable dye for dyeing. Unexpectedly, the dyeing performance of the favorable dye with a neutral pH value and the dyeing durability after multiple washes with a commercially available shampoo are comparable to those of traditional hair dyes based on ammonia or ammonia substitutes, where the dyeing process is carried out under alkaline conditions with a pH value greater than 10.

[0030] Of course, in a favorable alternative, the dye also has an alkaline pH value as a whole, especially in the range of pH 8 to 11, preferably 9 to 11 or 8 to 10.

[0031] In a favorable embodiment, in addition to another alkalizing agent (such as ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes), bioactive glass particles are present as an alkalizing agent in the dye to reduce its content. Therefore, only partially replace ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes.

[0032] In a favorable embodiment, the total amount of ammonia and ammonia substitutes in the dye is less than 5 wt.%, preferably less than 3 wt.%, more preferably less than 2 wt.%, and even more preferably less than 1 wt.%.

[0033] In a particularly favorable embodiment, bioactive glass particles are used as the sole alkalizing agent. In other words, in a variant of the dye, the alkalizing agent consists of bioactive glass particles, that is, the alkalizing agent is bioactive glass. This means complete replacement of ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes.

[0034] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the dye does not contain ammonia and / or does not contain ammonia substitutes. In this context, "free of" means that these components are not actively added to the dye and may be present at most in unavoidable trace amounts or as contaminants, for example, possibly caused by impurities in the ingredients used. For ammonia, the impurity content is at most 100 ppm, preferably at most 50 ppm, or for each ammonia substitute, the impurity content is at most 100 ppm, preferably at most 50 ppm. Of course, particularly preferably, the dye is completely free of any of the above-mentioned undesirable substances.

[0035] Tests of a beneficial hair dye using bioactive glass particles as the sole alkalizing agent have shown that, compared to existing hair dyes based on traditional alkalizing agents, the dyeing performance of this dye and the dyeing durability after multiple washes with commercially available shampoos are at least as good, and in some cases, even better, for example, when the content of bioactive glass particles is higher.

[0036] By a series of measures described in detail below, the reactivity of the bioactive glass particles can be targeted adjusted, thereby adjusting the pH value when the dye is applied to hair and / or skin.

[0037] In an advantageous variant, the alkaline pH value of the dye is in the range of 8 to 11, preferably 9 to 11 or 8 to 10. In an alternative advantageous variant, the dye has a neutral pH value, advantageously 6 to <8, preferably 6.5 to 7.5.

[0038] In an advantageous embodiment of the dye, the dye contains at least one dyeing component and / or at least one oxidizing agent.

[0039] In an advantageous improvement, the dye contains at least one dyeing component. The term "dyeing component" in principle covers all known colorants (dyes, pigments, dye precursors, etc.) in all dyes, which are suitable for temporarily, semi-permanently, sub-permanently or permanently dyeing keratin fibers, especially hair and / or skin. In the context of the present invention, the dyeing component is suitable for use with bioactive glass particles as an alkalizing agent to open the hair cuticle and swell the hair and / or skin. For example, such a dyeing component can be a finished dye (also known as a "direct dye") or a dye precursor (i.e., Vorstufen, also known as an "undeveloped dye" or "color base"), where the dye precursor forms a colored artificial dye or pigment only through an oxidizing agent. Furthermore, the dyeing component includes: a toner (also known as a dyeing coupler), which is a partially developed or partially oxidized color former that can give a directional color to the dyeing; and a plant dye.

[0040] In an advantageous embodiment of the dye, the dye is selected from the group consisting of: temporary dyes, semi-permanent dyes, demi-permanent dyes, permanent dyes, and dyes that can preferably be used for dyeing hair and / or skin. Those skilled in the art understand what types of dyeing components should be used in different types of dyes.

[0041] For dyeing components and different dyeing mechanisms of action, for example, many published documents can be referred to, such as S.A. DaFranca, M.F. Dario, V.B. Esteves, A.R. Baby, M.V.R. Velasco, "Types of Hair Dye and Their Mechanisms of Action", Cosmetics 2015, 2(2), 110 - 126, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

[0042] Examples of dyeing components, especially those of permanent hair dyes, can be referred to, for example, O.J.X. Morel, R.M. Christie, "Current Trends in the Chemistry of Permanent Hair Dyeing", Chem. Rev. 2011, 111, 2537 - 2561; A. Towns, "A review of developments in industrial hair colorant actives for oxidative dyes", Coloration Technology 2021, 137, 301 - 335, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

[0043] Dyeing components are usually based on substituted aromatic compounds, such as phenols, anilines, and toluenes. Dominant dye precursors on the market include, for example, 2,5 - diamino toluene sulfate, p - phenylenediamine, p - aminophenol, 1 - hydroxyethyl - 4,5 - diamino pyrazole sulfate.

[0044] In an advantageous embodiment of the dye, the dye is a non - oxidative dye, in which bioactive glass particles are used as an alkalizing agent to open the hair cuticle or expand the hair and / or skin, so that at least one dyeing component (such as a non - ionic dye) can penetrate into the hair and / or skin better and deeper. Compared with the washing of temporary and / or semi - permanent dyes, this dye can improve the intensity and durability of dyeing.

[0045] In an advantageous embodiment, the colorant is a permanent colorant that causes a long-lasting chemical color change. Permanent colorants encompass the group of semi-permanent colorants since the coloring mechanism is the same in principle. However, the coloring effect and color fastness of semi-permanent colorants are slightly weaker. Preferably, this is an oxidative colorant that requires an oxidizing agent to generate artificial dyes or pigments and / or to modify the natural pigments in the hair and / or skin.

[0046] In an advantageous embodiment of the colorant, the colorant comprises at least one oxidizing agent and is thus an oxidative colorant. In an advantageous variant, the oxidative colorant is a bleaching agent that comprises hydrogen peroxide and / or other oxidizing agents that lighten the natural hair pigments. The bioactive glass particles open the hair cuticles, causing the hair to swell, resulting in the lightening or decomposition of the natural hair pigments or previously applied artificial pigments (e.g., using hydrogen peroxide). Advantageous oxidizing agents and proportions are described below. The bleaching agent may also comprise coloring components to avoid an undesired color impression. However, the main function of this substance is to lighten or destroy the natural hair pigments, and the lightening intensity can be controlled by the concentration of the oxidizing agent (especially hydrogen peroxide). This also applies to the hair remover.

[0047] In an advantageous embodiment of the colorant, the colorant comprises at least one coloring component and at least one oxidizing agent. The oxidative colorant comprises coloring components by which the color depth (lightening, darkening) and / or directional coloring of the hair and / or skin can be specifically and durably changed.

[0048] In a first advantageous variant of the oxidative colorant comprising a coloring component, the colorant is a single-component colorant in which the bioactive glass particles act as a basifying agent to open the hair cuticles or to swell the hair and / or skin. In this way, the coloring components can penetrate into the keratin fibers and oxidize under the action of atmospheric oxygen or a catalyst to form natural-like dyes.

[0049] In another advantageous variant of the oxidative colorant comprising a coloring component, the colorant is a multi-component colorant in which the active substances, auxiliaries, and additives are dispersed in multiple components that are mixed with each other to form the colorant. One component comprises at least one coloring component, preferably comprising bioactive glass particles as a basifying agent to open the hair cuticles or to swell the hair (as described above), and another component comprises the oxidizing agent. However, the basifying agent may also be comprised in another component. Persons skilled in the art are familiar with multi-component colorants and know how to formulate the various components and apply them in combination.

[0050] Preferably, the component containing the oxidizing agent may contain 0.5 wt.% to 12 wt.% hydrogen peroxide. It is also well known to those skilled in the art that the content of hydrogen peroxide is selected according to the type of oxidation dye. For example, the bleaching agent may contain up to 12 wt.% hydrogen peroxide, while other permanent dyes may contain up to 9 wt.% or up to 6 wt.% hydrogen peroxide, depending on the desired degree of fading. For lower-strength dyes, such as semi-permanent dyes, the upper limit of hydrogen peroxide may also be 4 wt.%. Alternatively or additionally, the component may also contain other oxidizing agents, such as sodium iodate or sodium periodate, addition products of hydrogen peroxide with, for example, urea, melanin, borates, etc. Variants of hydrogen peroxide and alternatives to hydrogen peroxide are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0051] In an advantageous variant, the dye may be a two-component dye, wherein the "first component" (also known as the "coloring component") contains at least one coloring component, and the "second component" (also known as the "oxidizing component") contains an oxidizing agent for color formation. The "first component" and the "second component" must be mixed together before application to jointly produce a ready-to-use dye. The bioactive glass particles as an alkalizing agent may be included in the "first component" of the dye together with at least one coloring component.

[0052] In an advantageous embodiment, the multi-component dye (such as a two-component dye) contains a dye precursor as the coloring component, i.e., a dye precursor, such as an easily oxidizable compound, which can penetrate well into the opened cutin layer and into the swollen hair or skin due to its small molecule size. Due to the presence of an oxidizing agent, especially hydrogen peroxide and / or well-known alternatives, such as sodium iodate, sodium periodate, etc. (see above), an oxidation process may be triggered, thereby converting the dye precursor into a dye under the action of reactive oxygen species. In an advantageous variant, the coloring component contains at least one additional dye, such as a direct dye, in addition to the dye precursor.

[0053] The dye containing bioactive glass particles according to the present invention. Advantageously, the average diameter of the particles (i.e., the d 50 value) is ≤ 20 μm, advantageously ≤ 15 μm, preferably ≤ 10 μm, more preferably ≤ 5 μm. The smaller the particle size, the larger the reaction surface of the particles, and the faster or stronger the rate of pH change towards alkalinity.

[0054] d 50 The lower limit of the value can be combined with all the above upper limits. Advantageously, the lower limit is 0.1 μm, preferably 0.25 μm, and should not be lower than this lower limit.

[0055] In an advantageous variant, the d of the particle size 99The value is ≤60 μm, advantageously ≤50 μm, advantageously ≤40 μm, advantageously ≤30 μm, advantageously ≤25 μm, advantageously ≤20 μm, preferably ≤15 μm. Advantageously, d 99 The lower limit of the value can be combined with all the upper limits mentioned above, and this lower limit is 1 μm. d 99 The value represents that the diameter of 99% of the measured particles is equal to or less than the specified value.

[0056] The particle size (grain size) is determined by laser diffraction according to the standard ISO 13320:2020. Its angular distribution based on the light scattering intensity of the particles depends on the particle size, and the particle size in turn depends on the diameter of the assumed sphere. According to the particle size, Fraunhofer diffraction or Mie scattering is used as the theoretical basis.

[0057] For the purpose of the specification, the term "diameter" refers to the maximum size of the microparticles and / or particles. Regarding spherical microparticles and / or particles, the diameter is only equivalent to the diameter of the sphere. Regarding ellipsoidal or flaky microparticles and / or particles, the diameter is measured at the maximum size, for example, for an ellipsoid, it is measured at its major axis. Laser diffraction cannot provide particle morphology information, so the particle shape cannot be characterized.

[0058] Bioactive glass particles (i.e., bioactive glass powder) can be produced by known methods, such as by dry grinding or wet grinding processes or a combination of both. The production of glass powder can use either a dry process or a water-soluble grinding medium and a non-water-soluble grinding medium. The grinding tools can mainly include ball mills, stirred ball mills, jet mills, needle mills or a combination of two or more of them. Therefore, materials with the above advantageous particle sizes can be produced.

[0059] Regarding the particle size, it is advantageous that the particles do not precipitate in the stain. Advantageously, the particle size can be selected according to the viscosity of the stain, or the viscosity can be adjusted to the required particle size by appropriate additives (such as thickeners, such as xanthan gum).

[0060] In an advantageous embodiment, the content of bioactive glass particles in the stain is 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, advantageously 0.5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, advantageously 0.7 wt.% to 10 wt.%. For a single-component stain, this proportion refers to the ready-to-use stain. For multi-component stains, especially two-component stains, this proportion refers to the coloring component of the stain, such as the "first component".

[0061] The content of bioactive glass particles in the dye preferably can be at least 0.1 wt.%, so as to obtain the required alkalization effect of the dye. Advantageous lower limits can be at least 0.3 wt.%, at least 0.5 wt.%, at least 0.7 wt.%, at least 0.9 wt.% or at least 1 wt.%. Some variant embodiments can also contain at least 1.5 wt.% or at least 2 wt.% of bioactive glass particles. Preferably, the upper limit should not exceed 20 wt.%, otherwise, the alkalization effect is too strong, which may cause skin irritation and damage to hair and skin. In addition, bioactive glass particles also affect the rheological properties of the dye, especially the viscosity, thereby increasing or decreasing the viscosity according to the composition of the original color, resulting in easier or more difficult application, for example, through a self-use type hand-pressed applicator. Advantageous upper limits can be at most 15 wt.%, at most 12 wt.%, at most 10 wt.%, at most 8 wt.%, at most 6 wt.% or at most 5 wt.%.

[0062] As described above, the bioactive glass particles can be used as the sole alkalizing agent or in a form mixed with other alkalizing agents (i.e., ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes).

[0063] The content of bioactive glass particles required in the dye mainly depends on the type of the dye, the reactivity of the bioactive glass, the particle size, and the pH value required during the dyeing process, etc.

[0064] In an advantageous improvement embodiment, the dye contains ceramized bioactive glass particles, i.e., bioactive glass ceramic particles. Glass ceramic is a material with an amorphous phase and a crystalline phase. By specifically forming certain crystal phases and certain proportions of the crystalline phase and the amorphous phase, the reactivity of the bioactive glass ceramic can be controlled, that is, the ion exchange rate with the liquid medium, thereby adjusting the pH value. The higher the reactivity, the fewer the particles or powders required to adjust the expected pH value. The bioactive glass ceramic particles are described in detail below.

[0065] In an advantageous variant embodiment, in addition to bioactive glass particles, the dye can also contain bioactive glass ceramic particles. Alternatively, all particles can be ceramized, that is, exist in the form of bioactive glass ceramics.

[0066] Bioactive glass particles or bioactive glass ceramic particles do not necessarily mean that the particles are 100% composed of glass or glass ceramic, although this may be the case in some embodiments of the present invention. In advantageous embodiments of the present invention, the surface of the particles can be chemically modified, especially functionalized. For example, after the particles react with the corresponding silane, they may exhibit stronger hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity. In this way, the reactivity of water-based or oil-based preparations can be adjusted.

[0067] The following examples relate to bioactive glass or bioactive glass particles. The description of bioactive glass particles according to the invention and their advantageous improvements relates both to dyes comprising bioactive glass particles according to the invention and to the use of bioactive glass particles according to the invention as alkalizing agents in cosmetic formulations.

[0068] Bioactive glass refers to a glass having SiO2 as a glass former and at least one oxide selected from alkali metal oxides and alkaline earth metal oxides as a network former, and the bioactive glass undergoes specific biological reactions when contacting with an organism. When contacting with a liquid (such as a body fluid), the bioactive glass is capable of exchanging ions with the liquid. During this process, monovalent alkali metal oxide ions and / or divalent alkaline earth metal oxide ions (especially Na2O) are released from the glass, and a SiO2-rich surface layer, especially a silica gel layer, is formed on the glass surface within several minutes, which depends on the glass composition, for example. If the bioactive glass also advantageously contains P2O5 and CaO, a hydroxyapatite carbonate layer can be formed on the glass surface, which is very similar to the bone mineral phase. Therefore, such bioactive glass can form a permanent physical chemical bond with bones and tissues, avoiding being encapsulated by the collective or triggering rejection reactions.

[0069] Bioactive glass has long been well-known. For example, refer to L.L. Hench, J.K. West, "Biological Applications of Bioactive Glasses", Life Chemistry Reports, 1996, 13, 177-241. Compared with traditional non-bioactive glass, the characteristic of bioactive glass is its solubility in water.

[0070] For example, bioactive glass can be used in tooth remineralization toothpaste and dental tubule sealants for the oral cavity, for bone regeneration materials, for anti-inflammatory agents (such as in the case of poor wound healing or acne), as a mineral protection layer for nails or hair (for example, refer to patent documents US2002 / 0086039 A1, WO 03 / 075869 A1), as a preservative (for example, refer to patent document WO 01 / 03650 A2), and as an antiperspirant active substance in a preparation for reducing sweat (refer to patent document DE 10303553 A1). Patent document DE 102007033091 A1 discloses a colorant and / or modifier for keratin fibers, which contains bioactive glass to reduce scalp irritation caused by strong alkaline conditions during the coloring process. The colorant contains common alkalizing agents such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines, etc. Patent document EP 1709997 A1 describes a hair straightening agent containing alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, which contains bioactive glass to reduce skin irritation during the treatment process.

[0071] Generally, the current application of bioactive glass mainly utilizes the property of releasing soluble ions from bioactive glass, where the released ions can produce the desired effects and / or modify the surface of the bioactive glass, so as to form a bond with bones, tissues, dentin or keratin-containing elements (such as nails), for example.

[0072] In the context of the present invention, it has unexpectedly been found that bioactive glass particles can also be specifically used as an alkalizing agent in dyes, especially hair dyes. This utilizes the effect of the exchange of monovalent and / or divalent ions in the glass with protons (hydrogen ions H + ) in a liquid (usually aqueous), thereby increasing the pH value either globally or only locally.

[0073] In the context of the present invention, the bioactive glass preferably contains and / or consists of monovalent cations from the alkali metal group and / or divalent cations from the alkaline earth metal group (preferably sodium ions and / or calcium ions) and network formers. In this case, when in contact with a liquid medium, cations are released from the glass matrix of the network former component and exchange with protons in the liquid medium, thereby setting a pH value on the object to be dyed (especially on hair and / or skin) that is favorable for color absorption or color change.

[0074] According to an advantageous embodiment, the dissolution rate can be adjusted by changing the composition of the bioactive glass, thereby adjusting its alkalizing effect.

[0075] The reaction rate of bioactive glass is affected by various factors, such as composition (e.g., SiO2 content), the internal structure of the glass (glass-ceramic), and / or the porosity of the glass, the particle size of the powder particles, etc.

[0076] In an advantageous embodiment, the bioactive glass contains SiO2 and CaO, with SiO2 as the network former. Preferably, the bioactive glass additionally contains Na2O and / or P2O5.

[0077] The SiO2 content in the glass can be from 35 wt.% to 75 wt.%. The glass can advantageously contain at least 35 wt.%, preferably at least 40 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 43 wt.% of SiO2. The advantageous upper limit of SiO2 can be at most 75 wt.%, at most 70 wt.%, at most 60 wt.%, advantageously at most 55 wt.%, preferably at most 50 wt.% or at most 48 wt.%.

[0078] The Na₂O content in the glass can be from 0 to 40 wt.%. In some advantageous variants, the Na₂O content in the glass can be from 10 wt.% to 40 wt.%. The glass can advantageously contain at least 10 wt.%, preferably at least 15 wt.%, preferably at least 18 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 20 wt.% of Na₂O. The advantageous upper limit of Na₂O can be at most 40 wt.%, advantageously at most 35 wt.%, preferably at most 30 wt.% or at most 28 wt.% or at most 26 wt.%. In other advantageous variants, the Na₂O content is lower, and the Na₂O content ranges from 0 to less than 10 wt.%. Advantageously, the variant without Na₂O can also contain other ion-releasing alkali metal oxides and / or alkaline earth metal oxides.

[0079] Preferably, the CaO content in the glass can be from 10 wt.% to 40 wt.%. The glass can advantageously contain at least 10 wt.%, advantageously at least 15 wt.%, preferably at least 18 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 20 wt.% of CaO. The advantageous upper limit of CaO can be at most 40 wt.%, advantageously at most 35 wt.%, preferably at most 30 wt.% or at most 28 wt.% or at most 26 wt.%.

[0080] The glass can contain P₂O₅ in a proportion of 0 to 30 wt.%. The glass can advantageously contain at least 1 wt.%, preferably at least 3 wt.%, preferably at least 4 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 5 wt.% of P₂O₅. The advantageous upper limit of P₂O₅ can be at most 30 wt.%, advantageously at most 25 wt.%, advantageously at most 20 wt.%, advantageously at most 15 wt.%, advantageously at most 10 wt.%, advantageously at most 9 wt.%, preferably at most 8 wt.% or at most 7 wt.%. Advantageously, a variant without P₂O₅ can be used.

[0081] Advantageously, the bioactive glass can optionally contain at least one additional component, preferably selected from the group: Al₂O₃, B₂O₃, MgO, Li₂O, K₂O, Ag₂O, AgI, NaI, TiO₂, ZnO, CaF₂. Advantageously, the total content of these additional components is less than 20 wt.%, advantageously at most 18 wt.%, advantageously at most 15 wt.%, advantageously at most 10 wt.%, preferably at most 8 wt.%, preferably at most 5 wt.%, preferably at most 3 wt.%.

[0082] In the context of the present invention, the bioactive glass used is non-toxic and harmless. Preferably, the heavy metal contamination is less than 20 ppm for Pb, less than 5 ppm for Cd, less than 5 ppm for As, less than 10 ppm for Sb, less than 1 ppm for Hg, and less than 10 ppm for Ni.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the bioactive glass comprises (by weight percentage of oxides):

[0084] In a preferred embodiment, the bioactive glass comprises (by weight percentage of oxides):

[0085] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the bioactive glass comprises (by weight percentage of oxides):

[0086] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the bioactive glass according to the present invention consists of at least 90 wt.%, more preferably at least 95 wt.%, most preferably at least 99 wt.% of the above components, or preferably consists of the components SiO2, Na2O, CaO, P2O5. In a preferred variant, the bioactive glass according to the present invention consists of at least 90 wt.%, more preferably at least 95 wt.%, most preferably at least 99 wt.% of the components SiO2, Na2O, CaO, P2O5, K2O, MgO.

[0087] The glass powder based on bioactive glass according to the present invention can be an existing bioactive glass. In the applications of various aspects of the present invention, particularly preferred bioactive glasses can be purchased, for example, from SCHOTT AG under the product name MD01.

[0088] In a preferred improvement, the bioactive glass is a ceramized bioactive glass, i.e., the bioactive glass has the form of a bioactive glass-ceramic, i.e., the particles according to the present invention can have the form of an existing glass-ceramic. Glass-ceramic is a material having an amorphous phase and a crystalline phase. By specifically forming certain crystal phases and certain proportions of the crystalline phase and the amorphous phase, the reactivity of the bioactive glass-ceramic, i.e., the ion exchange rate with the liquid medium, can be controlled, thereby adjusting the pH value. The higher the reactivity, the less powder is required to adjust the desired pH value.

[0089] Experiments have shown that the powder or particles of a specific preferred bioactive glass-ceramic in an aqueous medium exhibit higher reactivity, i.e., a faster ion exchange rate, than the amorphous bioactive glass particles of the same composition and the same particle size, but the opposite may also be the case. The change in reactivity is due to the different solubilities of the formed different phases in the corresponding medium.

[0090] Using specific advantageous bioactive glasses, in particular glasses containing SiO2, CaO, and Na2O and optionally P2O5, a calcium sodium silicate crystal phase can be specifically produced.

[0091] If the surface of the powder particles crystallizes, it is also beneficial for controlling the reactivity because ion exchange mainly occurs on the surface of the particles. Different from volume crystallization (Volumen-kristallisiert), surface crystallization means that crystallization starts from the surface of the particles and then gradually develops into the interior (into the body).

[0092] In an advantageous variant, the process of converting bioactive glass into bioactive glass-ceramics is based on targeted temperature treatment of the powder particles, where the powder is exposed to a temperature of 500 °C to 1000 °C for, for example, 1 to 10 hours, advantageously 1 to 6 hours.

[0093] The bioactive glass underlying the present invention can be prepared in different known ways. In an advantageous embodiment, the bioactive glass is a molten glass obtained by melting raw materials. Molten glass generally has a lower porosity. In another advantageous variant, the underlying bioactive glass is a sol-gel glass obtained from metal-organic precursor materials by a known sol-gel process. The bioactive sol-gel glass has a higher porosity. In another advantageous variant, the underlying bioactive glass can be prepared by flame synthesis or microwave synthesis.

[0094] In addition to the above components, different dyes also contain other active substances, auxiliaries, and additives well-known to those skilled in the art, which can be selected according to the type of the relevant dye. These components include, for example, common components such as water, fats, oils, polymers, thickeners, gelling agents, aromatic oils, solubilizers, complexing agents, surfactants, emulsifiers, etc.

[0095] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to the use of bioactive glass particles as an alkalizing agent in a cosmetic preparation to open the hair cuticles and / or expand the hair and / or skin. Advantageously, the cosmetic preparation is a dye. Preferably, the dye is used for keratin fiber dyeing.

[0096] In an advantageous embodiment, the dye contains at least one dyeing component and / or at least one oxidizing agent.

[0097] Regarding the use of oxidative dyes (hair dyes), the bioactive glass particles can also be used as an alkalizing agent to catalyze or initiate the coupling reaction with the dye precursors.

[0098] In an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic preparation is a coloring agent, in particular a hair dye for human hair and / or a skin coloring agent for human skin, as described in detail in the relevant prior art and in the first aspect of the present invention above. The information provided in this application regarding the features and advantageous improvements of the present invention is equally applicable to the uses according to the present invention and will not be repeated here. This also applies to the description of the mode of action, composition, internal structure, etc. of the base bioactive glass or glass-ceramic.

[0099] In another advantageous variant, the cosmetic preparation is a shaving agent (such as shaving foam or shaving soap) or a depilatory agent (such as a depilatory cream). Such an advantageous preparation also contains bioactive glass particles as an alkalizing agent, which can cause the hair and / or skin to swell. This cosmetic preparation is also applicable to the description of the advantageous features of the particles of the present invention, their action, the composition and internal structure of the bioactive glass.

[0100] The bioactive glass particles have an affinity for keratin fibers and can therefore be advantageously used in cosmetic and non-cosmetic preparations that require an alkalizing agent to swell the matrix containing keratin fibers.

[0101] Advantageously, the cosmetic preparation, in particular the coloring agent, can be a cream, lotion, ointment, foam, gel, emulsion, suspension, soap, etc. In principle, any preparation capable of adsorbing bioactive glass particles is applicable. In other words, an advantageous use includes the cosmetic preparation being or comprising a cream, lotion, ointment, foam, gel, emulsion, suspension, soap, etc.

[0102] In an advantageous cosmetic preparation, in particular a coloring agent, bioactive glass in particulate form is used. Advantageously, the average diameter (d 50 value) of the particles ≤ 20 μm, advantageously ≤ 15 μm, preferably ≤ 10 μm, more preferably ≤ 5 μm. The smaller the particle size, the larger the surface area of the reaction surface, the stronger the ion exchange, and the more alkaline the pH value. The d 50 value's lower limit can be combined with all the above upper limits. Advantageously, the lower limit is 0.1 μm, preferably 0.25 μm, and should not be lower than this lower limit.

[0103] In an advantageous variant, the d 99 value of the particle size is ≤ 60 μm, advantageously ≤ 50 μm, advantageously ≤ 40 μm, advantageously ≤ 30 μm, advantageously ≤ 25 μm, advantageously ≤ 20 μm, preferably ≤ 15 μm. Advantageously, the lower limit of the d 99 value can be combined with all the above upper limits, and this lower limit is 1 μm.

[0104] In an advantageous embodiment, the content of bioactive glass particles in the cosmetic preparation is from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, advantageously from 0.5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, advantageously from 0.7 wt.% to 10 wt.%.

[0105] The content of bioactive glass particles in the cosmetic preparation, in particular in the colorant, can preferably be at least 0.1 wt.% in order to obtain the desired alkalization effect. Advantageous lower limits can be at least 0.3 wt.%, at least 0.5 wt.%, at least 0.7 wt.%, at least 0.9 wt.% or at least 1 wt.%. In some variants, it can also contain at least 1.5 wt.% or at least 2 wt.% of bioactive glass powder. Preferably, the upper limit should not exceed 20 wt.%, otherwise the alkalization effect is too strong, which may lead to skin irritation and damage to hair and skin. Advantageous upper limits can be at most 15 wt.%, at most 12 wt.%, at most 10 wt.%, at most 8 wt.%, at most 6 wt.% or at most 5 wt.%.

[0106] In an advantageous embodiment, bioactive glass particles are used as an alkalizing agent, and the alkaline pH value in the cosmetic preparation, in particular in the colorant, is in the range of 8 to 11, preferably 9 to 11 or 8 to 10. In an alternative advantageous variant, bioactive glass particles are used as an alkalizing agent, the cosmetic preparation, in particular the colorant, has a neutral pH value preferably in the range of 6 to less than 8, preferably 6.5 to 7.5, and the alkalizing agent is a local alkalizing agent.

[0107] The inventors have recognized for the first time that bioactive glass particles can be used in colorants as a replacement for known alkalizing agents (such as ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes). Advantageously, the alkalizing agent used contains as little as possible of other alkalizing agents in addition to bioactive glass particles. In this way, the disadvantages of existing ammonia and ammonia substitutes are overcome. According to a preferred embodiment of the described use, the total amount of other alkalizing agents (ammonia and ammonia substitutes) used in the cosmetic preparation is less than 5 wt.%, preferably less than 3 wt.%. Preferably, less than 2 wt.%, preferably less than 1 wt.% of other alkalizing agents (ammonia and ammonia substitutes) is used. Particularly advantageously, bioactive glass particles are used as the sole alkalizing agent, i.e., complete replacement of ammonia and ammonia substitutes is achieved. In this advantageous use, the cosmetic preparation, in particular the colorant, does not contain any ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes as an alkalizing agent (for the definition of "does not contain", see above).

[0108] In a certain advantageous use, the pH value of the cosmetic preparation, especially the colorant during application, is in the range of 6 to <8, preferably 6.5 to 7.5. As described above, the advantageous colorant containing bioactive glass particles can have a neutral pH value during application (depending on its use concentration), which in the context of the present invention means a pH range of 6 to <8, preferably 6.5 to 7.5, while the existing alkalizing agent determines the overall pH value of the colorant, and the pH value is usually set to 8 to 11. The reason may be that bioactive glass is reactive, and when specific bioactive glass particles come into contact with hair and / or skin, the local pH value is biased towards alkaline, thereby opening the hair cuticle or causing the hair and / or skin to expand and / or react to form color, while the overall pH value of the colorant is neutral. In this variant, the bioactive glass particles act as a local alkalizing agent.

[0109] In an advantageous use, the bioactive glass contains SiO2 and CaO, with SiO2 as the network former, and preferably the bioactive glass further contains Na2O and / or P2O5 (see the specific description of the relevant composition in the first aspect of the present invention).

[0110] In an advantageous embodiment, the particles contain bioactive glass ceramics. In other words, in an advantageous use, the cosmetic preparation (preferably the colorant) contains ceramized bioactive glass particles. Description of the Drawings

[0111] The following is combined with Figure 1 and examples to describe the present invention in detail, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0112] Wherein:

[0113] Figure 1 Shows the colorimetric measurement results of the dyeing test. Detailed Description of the Embodiments

[0114] The following describes the present invention by taking a permanent hair dye as an example, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0115] Table 1 below shows the compositions (unit: grams [g]) of two examples (Ex) and two comparative examples (Comp-Ex) of the "color-giving component" in a two-component colorant.

[0116] Table 1: Composition of the Color-Giving Component [Unit: Gram]

[0117] The above-listed compositions only differ in terms of the alkalizing agent.

[0118] The coloring composition of Example 1 does not contain any alkalizing agent. In Comparative Example 2, a mixture of 2-ethanolamine and ammonium hydroxide is included as the alkalizing agent, while in the Examples (Example 1 and Example 2), only bioactive glass particles are used as the alkalizing agent. The d 50 value of the particles used in both examples is 4 μm, and the d 99 value is < 15 μm. The same bioactive glass is used in both examples, which contains SiO2 as the network former and also contains CaO, and here also contains Na2O and P2O5. For example, in the examples shown in this figure, commercially available MD01 type glass is used. Of course, the present invention is not limited to this specific glass. Other bioactive glasses and glass ceramics and / or other particle sizes produce similar effects.

[0119] Regarding the coloring composition of the two-component dye, the content of bioactive glass particles in the first example (Example 1) is 1 wt.%, and the content of bioactive glass particles in the second example (Example 2) is 5 wt.%.

[0120] The coloring composition is prepared as follows: 1) Melt the fat phase at 70 °C; 2) Homogenize the thickener (here xanthan gum) and water at 70 °C; 3) Add the water-soluble components and dyes and dissolve; 4) Add the alkalizing agent (omitted in Example 1); 5) Add the fat phase to the water phase; 6) Homogenize under cooling conditions (up to 50 °C); 7) Add the fragrance; 8) Cool to room temperature.

[0121] The mixture is always homogenized by stirring between different steps.

[0122] After the four coloring compositions are prepared, the pH values of each component are measured for three days. The results show that the pH value of the coloring composition can be quickly adjusted to a stable value. Regarding Example 1 and Example 2, this means that the ion exchange reaction between the bioactive glass particles and the aqueous phase quickly reaches an equilibrium state, and then the pH value basically no longer changes.

[0123] The hair dyeing test is carried out on hair samples of the blond race. For this purpose, the coloring composition (the "first component" of the two-component dye) listed in Table 1 is mixed with the "second component" (oxidizing component) of the two-component dye to prepare a ready-to-use hair dye. The "second component" is uniformly 3% aqueous H2O2 solution (by weight percentage). For every 1 g of the coloring composition, 1 g of the "second component" is used. Each hair dye is tested on two hair samples respectively.

[0124] Apply the coloring agent to the hair samples as evenly as possible and leave it on the hair for 30 minutes. Then rinse the coloring agent with tap water for 3 minutes, dry the hair samples with a hair dryer, and measure the coloring performance by colorimetry. Then wash the dyed hair samples several times. In each washing round, wash the hair samples with a commercially available shampoo for 2 minutes, rinse with tap water for 20 seconds, dry with a hair dryer, and then measure with a colorimeter. A total of 5 washing rounds are carried out. The same operation is performed on all hair samples.

[0125] In order to quantify the direct coloring performance after dyeing and the coloring durability after washing, colorimetric measurements are carried out on the hair samples. Colorimetry is a well-known method. In this case, a "Lorentzen & Wetre Datacolor Elrepho spectrophotometer" conforming to ISO 2469 standard is used for measurement under the d / 0° geometric optical configuration. The light source is a pulsed xenon lamp equipped with a "quasi-D65" filter.

[0126] The measurement principle is based on the CIELAB color space. EN ISO 11664-4 (Part 4) stipulates the standard of this color model. Three coordinate axes (red-green axis, yellow-blue axis, black-white axis) define a three-dimensional space. Each color can be defined by the coordinates a* (red-green), b* (yellow-blue), and L* (lightness). This color system is particularly suitable for expressing color differences (Farbunterschiede). The color difference relative to the origin is marked as dE, also denoted as "ΔE", and is calculated according to Equation (1): where "a", "b", and "L" are the coordinates of the color space.

[0127] Regarding the dE value: the smaller the dE, the higher the color intensity. It is speculated that when calculating dE, the lightness component in the generated hair color (i.e., "L" in the above formula) contributes the most weight. Therefore, a lower "L" value means a smaller dE, indicating a darker hair color, that is, a stronger coloring. This especially applies to the observation period specified below. Before starting the sample measurement, calibrate the equipment using the equipment-specific standards (black cavity calibration, white board calibration, ultraviolet calibration).

[0128] Fix the dry hair samples on the sample holder. Five different positions on the hair samples are measured during each measurement process. The computer calculates the average values of the color coordinates a*, b*, and L* based on 5 individual measurements. The corresponding dE (Equation 1) is calculated based on these values. Each hair sample needs to undergo two such measurement processes, and the average value of dE is calculated based on the results of the two measurements. Each coloring agent is tested on a total of two hair samples, and the average value of the two dE values is determined as the final result dE (end) .

[0129] Measurements and analyses were carried out by the same person under constant temperature conditions.

[0130] The colorimetric results are summarized in Table 2 below. "dE (end) Direct (dE (end) direct measurement)" refers to the final dE result directly measured after dyeing, and "dE (end) 5Washes (dE (end) after 5 washes)" refers to the final dE result measured after 5 rounds of washing. In addition, the measured pH value in the coloring component is also indicated.

[0131] Table 2: Dyeing effect <![CDATA[dE (end) Direct measurement]]> <![CDATA[dE (end) Wash five wheels]]> pH value Comparative Example 1 35.9 39.0 5.1 Comparative Example 2 22.5 24.3 10.2 Example 1 22.4 25.1 6.9 Example 2 18.4 19.6 10.4

[0132] Generally, as shown in Table 2, in the control example (Comp.Ex.) and the example (Ex.), the "dE (end) " value measured after 5 washes increased compared with the initial value dE (end) , that is, the color intensity decreased in various cases. However, the smaller the difference between "dE (end) direct measurement" and "dE (end) after 5 washes", the higher the dyeing durability after washing.

[0133] The coloring component in Control Example 1 does not contain any alkalizing agent, and the pH value is weakly acidic. Compared with Control Example 2, Example 1, and Example 2, the dyeing strength after dyeing decreased significantly (dE (end) = 35.9). The dyeing durability after 5 rounds of washing also deteriorated significantly (dE (end) = 39.0).

[0134] When using the dyeing agent based on Control Example 2 (containing ammonia and 2-ethanolamine, pH value of 10.2) to dye hair, the directly measured color intensity value after dyeing is dE (end) = 22.5, and it becomes dE (end) = 24.3 after 5 rounds of washing, which means that the color intensity decreased.

[0135] In Example 1, 1 wt.% of bioactive glass particles were used as the alkalizing agent. Regarding the color intensity after dyeing and after 5 rounds of washing, the dyeing effect and the dyeing durability were similar to those of Control Example 2: from dE (end) = 22.4 directly measured after dyeing to dE (end) = 25.1 measured after 5 rounds of washing.

[0136] Colorimetric measurements show that, according to the present invention, the use of bioactive glass particles as an alkalizing agent results in comparable effects in terms of dyeing performance and dyeing durability even at relatively low contents in the dye, compared to existing dyes containing ammonia or ammonia substitutes. It should be particularly emphasized that, in the case of comparable dyeing performance and dyeing durability, unlike existing dyes, the pH value of the advantageous dye is neutral (pH = 6.9) during the dyeing process (see Table 2, Example 1). Thus, in the example of 1 wt.% bioactive glass particles as a local alkalizing agent, the local alkalizing effect on hair is comparable to that of ammonia or ammonia substitutes, and the overall pH value of the dye is neutral. The neutral pH value ensures reduced skin irritation.

[0137] If the content of bioactive glass particles in the dye increases, for example, up to 5 wt.% based on the coloring component; see Example 2, compared to existing dyes containing ammonia or ammonia substitutes, the dyeing performance and dyeing durability are even improved: in Example 2, the dE (end) value (dE (end) = 18.4) measured directly after dyeing and the dE (end) value (dE (end) = 19.6) measured after 5 rounds of washing are both lower than those of Comparative Example 2, while the pH value during the dyeing process is comparable (pH = 10.4). This shows that, at the same pH value of the dye, the advantageous dye using bioactive glass particles as an alkalizing agent has a better dyeing effect and stronger dyeing durability than existing dyes.

[0138] Figure 1 The colorimetric test results of the dyed hair samples are shown in

Claims

1. A dye, especially a hair dye, comprising an alkalizing agent for opening the hair cuticle and / or swelling the hair and / or the skin, wherein, The alkalizing agent comprises or consists of bioactive glass particles.

2. The colorant according to claim 1, wherein, The total amount of ammonia and ammonia substitutes in the dye is less than 5 wt.%, preferably less than 3 wt.%.

3. The colorant according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The dye does not contain ammonia and / or ammonia substitutes.

4. The coloring agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, The dye contains at least one dyeing component and / or at least one oxidizing agent.

5. The coloring agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein, The alkaline pH value of the dye is in the range of 8 to 11, preferably 8 to 10.

6. The colorant according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein The pH value of the dye is in the range of 6 to <8, preferably 6.5 to 7.5, and the bioactive glass particles serve as a local alkalizing agent.

7. The coloring agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein, The particle size d of the bioactive glass particles 50 is ≤ 20 μm, advantageously ≤ 15 μm, preferably ≤ 10 μm, and preferably ≤ 5 μm.

8. The colorant according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein, The particle size d of the bioactive glass particles 99 has a value ≤ 60 μm, advantageously ≤ 40 μm, advantageously ≤ 25 μm, advantageously ≤ 20 μm, preferably ≤ 15 μm.

9. The coloring agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein, The content of the bioactive glass particles in the dye is 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, advantageously 0.5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, advantageously 0.7 wt.% to 10 wt.%.

10. The coloring agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein, The dye contains ceramized bioactive glass particles.

11. The colorant according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein, The bioactive glass contains SiO2 and CaO, with SiO2 as the network former, and preferably the bioactive glass contains Na2O and / or P2O5. Use of bioactive glass particles as an alkalizing agent in a cosmetic preparation to open the hair cuticles and / or swell the hair and / or skin.

13. The use according to claim 12, wherein The cosmetic preparation is a dye, and the dye preferably includes at least one dyeing component and / or at least one oxidizing agent.

14. The use according to claim 12 or 13, wherein The total amount of ammonia and ammonia substitutes used as an alkalizing agent in the cosmetic preparation is less than 5 wt.%, preferably less than 3 wt.%.

15. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 14, wherein, Bioactive glass particles are used as the sole alkalizing agent.

16. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein When applied, the pH value of the cosmetic preparation is in the range of 8 to 11, preferably 8 to 10.

17. Use according to any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein, When applied, the pH value of the cosmetic preparation is in the range of 6 to <8, preferably 6.5 to 7.

5.

18. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 17, wherein, The particle size d of the bioactive glass particles 50 has a value of ≤ 20 μm, advantageously ≤ 15 μm, preferably ≤ 10 μm, preferably ≤ 5 μm.

19. Use according to any one of claims 12 to 18, wherein, The particle size d of the bioactive glass particles 99 has a value of ≤ 60 μm, advantageously ≤ 40 μm, advantageously ≤ 25 μm, advantageously ≤ 20 μm, preferably ≤ 15 μm.

20. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 19, wherein In the cosmetic preparation, preferably, the content of the bioactive glass particles in the dye is 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, advantageously 0.5 wt.% to 15 wt.%, advantageously 0.7 wt.% to 10 wt.%.

21. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 20, wherein, The cosmetic preparation, preferably the dye, contains ceramized bioactive glass particles.

22. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 21, wherein, The bioactive glass contains SiO2 and CaO, with SiO2 as the network former, and preferably the bioactive glass contains Na2O and / or P2O5.

23. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 22, wherein, The cosmetic preparation includes creams, lotions, ointments, foams, gels, emulsions, suspensions, soaps, etc.

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