Cosmetic emulsion composition comprising spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and pigment for

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, comprising: (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic silicone surfactants; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monohydric alcohol; and (g) at least one anionic polymer, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30 wt% or more relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition can provide a water sample with long-lasting moisture and a fresh feeling, and has good pigment stability.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, which contains at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one pigment for a watery fresh feeling. Background Art

[0002] Endowing keratinous substances such as the skin with a watery and fresh texture is one of the key features of cosmetic products, especially skin cosmetic products. Emulsions are usually used in the form of liquid foundation products because they are pleasant to use due to the fresh feeling and moisture provided by the aqueous phase.

[0003] Recently, spherical silylated silica aerogel particles have been developed, and it has been reported that these particles provide lasting stability to emulsion compositions.

[0004] For example, JP-A-2021-102558 discloses a cosmetic composition in the form of a W / O emulsion, which contains at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and at least one ester oil selected from saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C 26 aliphatic monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids and saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C 26 liquid esters of aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols.

[0005] In addition, JP-A-2021-102559 discloses a cosmetic composition containing (i) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel and (ii) at least one composite silica particle and / or at least one hollow silica particle.

[0006] However, when the composition contains a large amount of aqueous phase, there may be a problem of reduced dispersibility of the pigment. There is a need for a cosmetic composition that can provide a moist, watery and fresh feeling to keratinous substances such as the skin and exhibit stable pigment dispersibility.

[0007] Disclosure of the Invention

[0008] An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition that can provide a watery and fresh feeling with lasting moisture and has good dispersibility of stable pigments.

[0009] The above object can be achieved by an emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oil phase, the emulsion composition comprising:

[0010] (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel;

[0011] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0012] (c) At least one pigment with hydrophobic surface treatment;

[0013] (d) At least one nonionic surfactant selected from nonionic surfactants other than nonionic silicone surfactants;

[0014] (e) At least one polyol;

[0015] (f) At least one monohydric alcohol; and

[0016] (g) At least one anionic polymer,

[0017] wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can be a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silylated silica.

[0019] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can have an average roundness of 0.8 or greater, preferably 0.82 or greater, and less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, still even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less, which is determined by an image analysis method.

[0020] The lipophilic thickener can be selected from inorganic lipophilic thickeners.

[0021] The pigment with hydrophobic surface treatment can be coated with isopropyl titanate triisostearate.

[0022] The polyol can combinatorially include at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, especially triols.

[0023] The polyol can combinatorially include at least one diol in an amount of at least 3% by weight and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, especially triols, in an amount of at least 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The number average molecular weight of the anionic polymer can be from 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 5,000 to 500,000, even more preferably from 10,000 to 200,000, even more preferably from 15,000 - 100,000, and especially from 20,000 - 50,000.

[0025] The anionic polymer may be selected from polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, and cellulose polymers (such as carboxymethyl cellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers.

[0026] The anionic polymer may be selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, and its salts; and preferably hyaluronic acid and acetylated hyaluronic acid, and their salts.

[0027] The nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids.

[0028] The cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one film-forming polymer, preferably selected from silicone resins.

[0029] The cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyethylenated silicones and alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates.

[0030] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin makeup or skin care composition, preferably a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a foundation.

[0031] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous substances such as skin, which comprises applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substances.

[0032] Best Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0033] After diligent research, the inventors have found that a composition in the form of an emulsion comprising components (a) to (g) according to the present invention can provide a watery and fresh feeling with persistent moisture, and it is stable with good dispersibility of pigments, and thus the present invention is completed.

[0034] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is an emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oil phase, which comprises:

[0035] (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel;

[0036] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0037] (c) at least one hydrophobically surface-treated pigment;

[0038] (d) at least one nonionic surfactant other than nonionic silicone surfactants;

[0039] (e) at least one polyol;

[0040] (f) at least one monohydric alcohol; and

[0041] (g) at least one anionic polymer,

[0042] wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[0044] [Composition]

[0045] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase. The emulsion can be in the O / W or W / O form. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of a W / O emulsion.

[0046] The term "W / O emulsion" or "water-in-oil emulsion" refers to any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous fatty or oily phase and an aqueous or water phase in the form of droplets dispersed in the fatty or oily phase. The term "O / W emulsion" or "oil-in-water emulsion" refers to any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous aqueous or water phase and a fatty or oily phase in the form of droplets dispersed in the aqueous or water phase.

[0047] The composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition or a skin care composition, and in particular a skin cosmetic composition. Here, keratinous substances refer to materials containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, etc. Preferably, the composition of the present invention is for skin, and more preferably for facial skin.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a liquid foundation, a make-up base and a makeup cream composition, and in particular a liquid foundation. The composition can be in the form of a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a liquid gel, a paste or a serum.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention can provide a moist, watery and fresh feeling to keratinous substances, such as skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can provide a "splashy water" feeling to keratinous substances. Here, the expression "splashy water" feeling means a feeling similar to splashing water or water dispersion during application to give a fresh feeling to the keratinous substances. Such a feeling can give the consumer a fresh feeling.

[0050] The composition according to the present invention is stable with respect to phase separation and pigment dispersion.

[0051] The composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment; (d) at least one non-ionic surfactant other than a non-ionic silicone surfactant; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monohydric alcohol; and (g) at least one anionic polymer. The components in the composition will be described in detail below.

[0052] (Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel)

[0053] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel. Two or more types of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel or a combination of different types of spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can be used.

[0054] An aerogel is a material with high porosity. Herein, silica aerogel refers to solid silica having a porous structure, which is generally obtained by replacing the medium contained therein by drying a wet silica aerogel with air while maintaining the solid network structure of silica. Porosity represents the amount of air contained by volume in the apparent volume of the material. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention can have a porosity of 60% or higher, preferably 70% or higher, and more preferably 80% or higher.

[0055] The hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention is characterized in that the shape of each particle is spherical. Due to this spherical shape, the hydrophobic silica aerogel can provide good smoothness to the cosmetic composition. The sphericity of the hydrophobic silica aerogel can be determined by the average roundness.

[0056] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention can have an average roundness of 0.8 or greater, and preferably 0.82 or greater. The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can have an average roundness of less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, still even more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less.

[0057] The "average roundness" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average roundness" can be the arithmetic mean of the roundness obtained by image analysis of scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of not less than 2000 aerogel particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0058] The "roundness" of each aerogel particle is a value determined by the following formula:

[0059] C = 4πS / L 2

[0060] Where C represents roundness, S represents the area (projection area) of the aerogel particles in the image, and L represents the length (perimeter) of the perimeter of the aerogel particles in the image. When the average roundness approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.

[0061] In the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic" means that the silica aerogel particles are difficult to disperse in water. More specifically, the term means that after adding 1 g of silica aerogel particles and 100 g of ion-exchanged water to a bottle, agitating or stirring the bottle for ten or more seconds, and allowing the bottle to stand, the aerogel phase and the aqueous phase are completely separated. Thus, in a specific embodiment of the present invention, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel does not exhibit water absorption properties.

[0062] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel that can be used according to the present invention is preferably of the silylated silica type (INCI name: silylated silica). Most preferably, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can be those described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.

[0063] Hydrophobicity can be obtained by reacting a hydrophobizing agent with the silanol groups present on the silica surface represented by the following formula:

[0064] ≡Si-OH

[0065] Where the symbol "≡" represents the trivalence remaining on the Si atom,

[0066] Thereby converting the silanol group into a group represented by the following formula:

[0067] (≡Si-O-) (4-n) SiR n

[0068] Where n is an integer from 1 to 3; each R is independently a hydrocarbon group; and two or more Rs can be the same or different from each other, where n is 2 or greater.

[0069] The hydrophobizing agent can be a silylating agent. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, in the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, the silica particles can be surface-modified by silylation. As examples of the silylating agent, treating agents having one of the following formulas (1) to (3) can be mentioned.

[0070] Formula (1):

[0071] R n SiX(4-n)

[0072] Wherein n represents an integer from 1 to 3; R represents a hydrocarbon group; X represents a group that can leave the molecule by breaking the bond with the Si atom in the reaction with a compound having a hydroxyl group (i.e., a leaving group); each R can be different, where n is 2 or greater; and each X can be different, where n is 2 or less.

[0073] Formula (2):

[0074]

[0075] Wherein R 1 represents an alkylene group; R 2 and R 3 independently represent a hydrocarbon group; and R 4 and R 5 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group.

[0076] Formula (3):

[0077]

[0078] Wherein R 6 and R 7 independently represent a hydrocarbon group; m represents an integer from 3 to 6; when there are two or more R 6 s, each R 6 can be different; and when there are two or more R 7 s, each R 7 can be different.

[0079] In the above formula (1), R is a hydrocarbon group, preferably a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably a methyl group.

[0080] As examples of the leaving group represented by X, halogen atoms such as chlorine and bromine can be mentioned; alkoxy groups such as methoxy and ethoxy; groups represented by -NH-SiR3 (where the definition of R is the same as the definition of R in formula (1)).

[0081] Specific examples of the hydrophobizing agent represented by the above formula (1) include: chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, monomethyltrimethoxysilane, monomethyltriethoxysilane, and hexamethyldisilazane.

[0082] From the viewpoint of favorable reactivity, most preferably, chlorotrimethylsilane, dichlorodimethylsilane, trichloromethylsilane, and / or hexamethyldisilazane can be used.

[0083] The number of bonds of Si atoms with silanol groups on the silica framework varies according to the number (4-n) of leaving groups X. For example, if n is 2, the following bonding will occur:

[0084] (≡Si-O-)2SiR2.

[0085] If n is 3, the following bonding will occur:

[0086] ≡Si-O-SiR3.

[0087] In this way, the silanol groups can be silylated and thereby hydrophobized.

[0088] In the above formula (2), R 1 can be an alkylene group, preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0089] In the above formula (2), R 2 and R 3 are independently hydrocarbon groups, and the same preferred groups as those of R in formula (1) can be cited. R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, and when it is a hydrocarbon group, the same preferred groups as those of R in formula (1) can be cited. When treating the gel of silica with the compound (cyclic silazane) represented by formula (2), the cleavage of the Si-N bond will occur through reaction with the silanol groups, and thus the following bonding will occur on the surface of the silica framework in the gel:

[0090] (≡Si-O-)2SiR 2 R 3 .

[0091] In this way, the silanol groups can also be silylated by the cyclic silazane of the above formula (2) and thereby hydrophobized.

[0092] Specific examples of the cyclic silazane represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisilazane and octamethylcyclotetrasilazane.

[0093] In the above formula (3), R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrocarbon groups, and the same preferred groups as those of R in formula (2) can be cited. m represents an integer from 3 to 6. When treating the gel of silica with the compound (cyclic siloxane) represented by formula (3), the following bonding will occur on the surface of the silica framework in the gel:

[0094] (≡Si-O-)2SiR 6 R 7 .

[0095] In this way, the silanol groups can also be silylated by the cyclic siloxanes of the above formula (3) and thereby hydrophobized.

[0096] Specific examples of the cyclic siloxanes represented by the above formula (3) include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0097] Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can be prepared by the following method: generating a sol of silica, converting the sol into a gel, aging the gel, washing the aged gel, replacing the water in the washed gel with a solvent, treating the gel with a hydrophobizing agent, and drying the hydrophobized silica.

[0098] Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can have a specific surface area of 200 m 2 / g or more, preferably 400 m 2 / g or more, and more preferably 500 m 2 / g or more, which is measured by the BET method, and can have a specific surface area of 1,200 m 2 / g or less, preferably 1,000 m 2 / g or less, and more preferably 800 m 2 / g or less, which is measured by the BET method.

[0099] In the present invention, the "specific surface area measured by the BET method" refers to the value measured by the following method: drying the sample for measurement at 200 °C under reduced pressure of not more than 1 kPa for not less than three hours; thereafter measuring only the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side at the liquid nitrogen temperature; and analyzing the adsorption isotherm by the BET method. The pressure range for analysis is a relative pressure of 0.1 to 0.25.

[0100] Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can have a pore volume of 1 ml / g or more, preferably 2 ml / g or more, and more preferably 3 ml / g or more, which is measured by the BJH method, and can have a pore volume of 10 ml / g or less, preferably 8 ml / g or less, and more preferably 7 ml / g or less, which is measured by the BJH method. Spherical hydrophobic silica aerogels can have a peak pore radius of 5 nm or more, preferably 10 nm or more, and more preferably 12 nm or more, which is measured by the BJH method, and can have a peak pore radius of 50 nm or less, preferably 40 nm or less, and more preferably 30 nm or less, which is measured by the BJH method.

[0101] "Pore volume measured by the BJH method" means the pore volume derived from pores having a pore radius of 1 nm to 100 nm, which is obtained by the BJH method (Barrett, E.P.; Joyner, L.G.; Halenda, P.P., J. Am. Chem. Soc. 73, 373 (1951)) by analyzing the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as explained above for "specific surface area measured by the BET method". "Peak pore radius measured by the BJT method" means the value of the pore radius that gives a peak in the pore size distribution curve (volume distribution curve), which is plotted as follows: taking the differential of the cumulative pore volume with respect to the logarithm of the pore radius on the vertical axis and the pore radius on the horizontal axis, which is obtained by the BJH method by analyzing the adsorption isotherm on the nitrogen adsorption side obtained in the same manner as above.

[0102] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an average particle size of 0.5 μm or more, preferably 1 μm or more, and more preferably 2 μm or more, and may have an average particle size of 30 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, and more preferably 15 μm or less by the image analysis method.

[0103] The "average particle size" here can be measured by the image analysis method. Specifically, the value of the "average particle size" is the arithmetic mean of the equivalent circle diameters, which can be obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image, for example, a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2000 aerogel particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by using secondary electron detection of the scanning electron microscope (SEM). The "equivalent circle diameter" of each aerogel particle is the diameter of a circle having an area equal to the area (projected area) of the aerogel particle in the image.

[0104] Preferably, the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel may have an oil absorption capacity of 2 ml / g or more, preferably 3 ml / g or more, more preferably 4 ml / g or more, and most preferably 5 ml / g or more, which can be measured at the wetting point, and may have an oil absorption capacity of 12 ml / g or less, preferably 11 ml / g or less, more preferably 10 ml / g or less, and most preferably 8 ml / g or less, which is measured at the wetting point.

[0105] The oil absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, denoted as Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of the particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It can be measured according to the wetting point method or the method for determining the oil absorption of powders (described in standard NF T30 - 022). As described below, the oil absorption can correspond to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or adsorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point.

[0106] Place an amount of powder of m = 2 g on a glass plate and then add oil dropwise (e.g., ester oil, oleic acid, or silicone oil). After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix using a spatula and continue to add oil until an aggregate of oil and powder has been formed. At this time, add one drop of oil at a time and then grind the mixture with the spatula. Stop adding oil when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. The paste must be able to spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. Then record the volume Vs of the oil used (expressed in ml). Oil absorption corresponds to Vs / m.

[0107] In addition to this, the oil absorption capacity can be measured in accordance with JIS-K6217-4.

[0108] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, (a) the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is those described in JP-A-2014-088307, JP-A-2014-218433, or JP-A-2018-177620.

[0109] The spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel can be present in an amount of 0.05 wt% or more, preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 0.2 wt% or more, and even more preferably 0.3 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or can be present in an amount of 3 wt% or less, preferably 2 wt% or less, more preferably 1.5 wt% or less, and most preferably 1 wt% or less.

[0110] The amount of the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.05 wt% to 3 wt%, preferably 0.1 wt% to 2 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 1.5 wt%, and even more preferably 0.3 wt% to 1 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0111] Oil phase

[0112] The oil phase of the present invention contains at least (b) a lipophilic gelling agent and (c) a hydrophobic surface-treated pigment. In addition to components (b) and (c), the oil phase can also contain any lipophilic, fat-soluble, or fat-dispersible components.

[0113] The amount of the oil phase is not particularly limited. Generally, the amount of the oil phase can be 5 wt% or more, preferably 10 wt% or more, more preferably 20 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or can be 60 wt% or less, preferably 55 wt% or less, and more preferably 50 wt% or less.

[0114] The amount of the oil phase in the composition according to the invention may be from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] (lipophilic thickener)

[0116] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickener. Two or more lipophilic thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of lipophilic thickener or a combination of different types of lipophilic thickeners may be used.

[0117] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic" herein may refer to a substance having a solubility of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L, and more preferably at least 100 g / L in oil at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). On the other hand, the term "lipophilic" herein may refer to a substance that is insoluble in water or has a solubility in water of 1 g / L or less, or 0.1 g / L or less at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.

[0118] The term "lipophilic thickener" refers to an inorganic or organic reagent, in the form of particles or not, capable of gelling the oil in the composition. The term "particulate lipophilic thickener" refers to a lipophilic thickener in the form of particles or crystals (granular or crystalline).

[0119] The lipophilic thickener for use in the composition according to the invention may be selected from inorganic lipophilic thickeners and organic lipophilic thickeners, and mixtures of these compounds. The lipophilic thickener is preferably particulate.

[0120] The inorganic lipophilic thickener that may be used in the composition according to the invention is preferably mineral particles substantially composed of mineral oxides and / or hydroxides.

[0121] These particles are preferably insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C). The term "insoluble" means a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight.

[0122] Preferably, the number-average primary size of these mineral particles is from 0.01 to 500 μm, preferably from 0.1 to 200 μm, and even more preferably from 1 to 100 μm.

[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "primary particle size" refers to the maximum size that can be measured between two radially opposite points on a single particle.

[0124] The size of the mineral particles can be determined by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method or by laser particle size analysis.

[0125] The mineral particles that can be used according to the present invention can be in various forms, for example, in the form of spheres, needles, flakes or platelets.

[0126] In a preferred variant of the present invention, the inorganic lipophilic thickener is particles in the form of platelets.

[0127] The inorganic lipophilic thickener that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can preferably be selected from silica and silicates.

[0128] The silicate of the present invention can be natural or chemically modified (or synthetic).

[0129] The silicate corresponds to optionally hydrated silica, in which some of the silicon atoms are replaced by metal cations such as Al 3+ 、B 3+ 、Fe 3+ 、Ga 3+ 、Be 2+ 、Zn 2+ 、Mg 2+ 、Co 3+ 、Ni 3+ 、Na + 、Li + 、Ca 2+ 、Cu 2+ alternatives.

[0130] More particularly, the silicates that can be used in the context of the present invention are selected from the smectite family, such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and clays from the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families.

[0131] These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Clays that are compatible and acceptable with keratin material cosmetics are preferably used.

[0132] The silicate can be selected from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The silicate is preferably selected from bentonite and hectorite.

[0133] The silicate can be modified with compounds selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, acetamides, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0134] As suitable silicates for use, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium-18 bentonites, such as those sold by Rheox under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V, those sold by United Catalyst under the name Tixogel VP, and those sold by Southern Clay under the names Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold by Rheox under the name Bentone 27, those sold by United Catalyst under the name Tixogel LG, and those sold by Southern Clay under the names Claytone AF and Claytone APA; quaternary ammonium-18 / benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold by Southern Clay under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS; quaternary ammonium-18 hectorites, such as those sold by Rheox under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8 and Bentone Gel VS38, and those sold by Biophil under the names Simagel M and Simagel SI345.

[0135] The silicates which can be used in the compositions according to the invention may in particular be selected from modified hectorites, such as hectorites modified with 10 -C 12 ammonium fatty acids, in particular distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0136] As previously mentioned, the inorganic lipophilic thickeners which can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be silica.

[0137] The silica which can be used in the compositions according to the invention is pyrogenic silica.

[0138] Pyrogenic silica can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of volatile silicon compounds in a hydrogen-oxygen flame, yielding finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silica which bears a large number of silanol groups on its surface. For example, such hydrophilic silica is sold by Degussa under the name Aerosil Aerosil and Aerosil Sold, and by Cabot Corporation under the name Cabo - O - Sil Cab - O - Sil Cab - O - Sil Cab - L - Sil and Cab - O - Sil Sold.

[0139] The surface of the silica can be chemically modified via a chemical reaction that produces a reduced number of silanol groups. In particular, the silanol groups can be replaced with hydrophobic groups: Hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0140] The hydrophobic groups can be:

[0141] (a) Trimethylsilyloxy groups, which are obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. According to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995), the silica thus treated is called silylated silica. They are sold, for example, by Degussa under the reference name Aerosil and by Cabot Corporation under the reference name Cab - O - Sil Sold;

[0142] (b) Dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane.

[0143] According to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995), the silica thus treated is called dimethylsilylated silica. They are sold, for example, by Degussa under the reference name Aerosil and Aerosil and by Cabot Corporation under the reference name Cab - O - Sil and Cab - O - Sil Sold.

[0144] Preferably, the inorganic lipophilic thickener is selected from lithium montmorillonite modified with C 10 -C 12 ammonium fatty acid chlorides, in particular distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride, and hydrophilic pyrogenic silica, such as the hydrophilic silica sold under the name Aerosil Sold.

[0145] More preferably, the inorganic lipophilic thickener is selected from C 10 -C 12Lithium montmorillonite modified with ammonium fatty acid salts, especially lithium montmorillonite modified with dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (or dimethyldistearylammonium lithium montmorillonite), such as the product sold by Elementis under the name Bentone 38VCG, and lithium montmorillonite modified with benzyl dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, such as the product sold by Elementis under the name Bentone 27V.

[0146] As previously mentioned, the lipophilic thickeners that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be selected from organic lipophilic thickeners.

[0147] Preferably, the organic lipophilic thickeners are selected from semi-crystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, mono- or poly-alkyl esters of sugars or polysaccharides, N-acyl amino acid amide derivatives, polymers comprising alkylene and / or styrene blocks such as stearyl acrylate, elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, solid fatty esters, especially C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C 24 fatty acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds. These copolymers may be diblock, triblock or multiblock polymers, radial-block polymers (also known as star copolymers), or alternatively comb polymers.

[0148] Among the C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C 24 fatty acid esters, mention may be made of mono-, di- or triesters of C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C 24 fatty acids with polyols, more particularly mono-, di- or triesters of C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C 24 fatty acids with glycerol. In particular, mixtures of these compounds may be used, such as mixtures of behenic acid mono-, di- and triesters with glycerol.

[0149] Most particularly, the organic lipophilic thickeners are selected from semi-crystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, polymers comprising alkylene and / or styrene blocks, such as stearyl acrylate, solid fatty esters, especially C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C 24 fatty acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0150] Even more preferably, the organic lipophilic thickeners are selected from C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C24 Fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C 24 esters of fatty acids and polyols, more particularly C8-C 30 and preferably C 18 -C 24 monoesters, diesters or triesters of fatty acids and glycerol.

[0151] The lipophilic thickener may be present in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or may be present in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less.

[0152] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the lipophilic thickener based on the total weight of the composition may be from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight.

[0153] (Hydrophobically surface-treated pigments)

[0154] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophobically surface-treated pigment. Two or more hydrophobically surface-treated pigments may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophobically surface-treated pigment or a combination of different types of hydrophobically surface-treated pigments may be used.

[0155] The term "pigment" refers to white or colored, mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous medium and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition. These pigments may be white or colored and mineral and / or organic.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used in the present invention are selected from mineral pigments. The term "mineral pigment" refers to any inorganic pigment. Among the mineral pigments which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of metal oxides such as zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, and manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, and metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder, or any combination thereof. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2 or ZnS. In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide.

[0157] The average particle size of the coated pigment is usually 100 nm or greater. The average particle size of the coated pigment according to the present invention can be from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm. For the purposes of the present invention, the D50 size or volume average size corresponds to the defined particle size such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size greater than D50. The volume average size can be evaluated by light diffraction using a Malvern MasterSizer laser particle size analyzer, with the particles to be evaluated dispersed in a liquid medium such as octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

[0158] The pigment can also be nacres and / or particles with a metallic luster. The term "nacre" should be understood to mean any shaped iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles, especially those produced by certain mollusks in their shells or alternatively synthesized, which have a color effect by optical interference.

[0159] The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. They can also be mica particles with at least two consecutive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes superimposed on their surfaces.

[0160] The pigment of the present invention is subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment. In other words, the pigment of the present invention has a hydrophobic coating. The hydrophobic coating preferably contains at least one hydrophobic compound, preferably selected from fatty substances, silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, fluorosilicone surfactants, metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids and their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyltitanium triisostearate, isostearyl sebacate, phospholipids and mixtures thereof.

[0161] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic surface-treated pigment is coated with isopropyltitanium triisostearate.

[0162] There is no limitation on the type of fatty substance. A single type of fatty substance or a combination of different types of fatty substances can be used.

[0163] As used herein, the term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferably 0.1%). The fatty substance can contain at least one sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms in its structure. Fatty substances are generally lipophilic substances and are soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0164] In one embodiment, the fatty substance is an oil. As used herein, "oil" refers to any fatty substance that is not in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Any oil suitable for cosmetic use can be used in the present invention. Suitable oils can include both volatile oils and non-volatile oils.

[0165] The fatty substance can be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, and waxes, preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils and waxes.

[0166] The hydrocarbon oil can be a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal, plant, mineral, or synthetic origin. As used herein, "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to any straight-chain or branched-chain, volatile or non-volatile oil that mainly contains carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, or fluorine groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant or mineral origin.

[0167] Examples of hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin can include but are not limited to squalene, perhydrosqualene, and squalane.

[0168] Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin can include oils referred to as plant oil or vegetable oil. Examples of hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin can include but are not limited to jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, dog rose oil, sweet almond oil, coriander oil, groundnut oil, coconut oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, almond oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, sesame seed oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, mango oil, walnut oil, poppy seed oil, barley oil, rye oil, and mixtures thereof. Among them, jojoba oil, especially jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, especially olive fruit oil, dog rose oil, especially dog rose fruit oil, and mixtures.

[0169] Hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin can be volatile or non-volatile, and examples of such oils can include but are not limited to liquid paraffin, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum (mineral oil), hydrogenated isoparaffin, or hydrogenated polyisobutene such as perhydrosqualene, polydecene, isododecane, isocetane, and mixtures thereof. Among them, mineral oil can be particularly preferably used.

[0170] In one embodiment, the fatty substance is wax. As used herein, "wax" refers to a fatty substance that is substantially solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and has a melting point of, for example, 30 °C or higher. Representative examples of such waxes can include: waxes of animal, plant, or mineral origin, such as candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lanolin wax, montan wax, and ozokerite; hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil; waxes of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene wax; and silicone waxes, such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes or poly(di)methyl-siloxane esters. Among them, candelilla wax can preferably be used.

[0171] The fatty substance can also be selected from fatty acids, synthetic esters and ethers, fatty alcohols, and fatty amides.

[0172] As examples of fatty acids, mention may be made of C 12 -C 22 higher fatty acids, such as C 12 -C 22 saturated fatty acids, such as stearic acid; C 12 -C 22 unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0173] Examples of synthetic esters and ethers can include, but are not limited to, oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1-OR2, where R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, purcellin oil, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, or isostearyl isostearate can be used; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, trisoisocetyl citrate, or heptanoates, octanoates, or decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; or lipophilic derivatives of amino acids, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0174] Other exemplary esters may include, for example, 2-ethylhexyl decanoate / caprylate (or octyl decanoate / caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl monocaprylate (or octyl monocaprylate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl nonanoate (or octyl nonanoate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate (or dioctyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl malate (or octyl malate), pentaerythritol decanoate / caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (or octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isononyl isotridecanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isononyl isotridecanoate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate (or octyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl octanoate (or octyl octanoate), and cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate.

[0175] The fatty alcohols useful in the present invention may be non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain, and have from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols preferably useful in the present invention are in liquid form at room temperature, or non-solid. Examples of fatty alcohols may include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol. Myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and melissyl alcohol may also be used.

[0176] An example of a fatty amide includes isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0177] The fatty material may also be a volatile or non-volatile silicone oil. Examples of volatile or non-volatile silicone oils preferably used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, cyclopolysiloxanes (cyclopolyalkylsiloxanes), such as cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethylsiloxane, phenyl dimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethoxysilyl diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenylethyl trimethoxysilyl silicate and polymethylphenylsiloxane.

[0178] Fluorinated oils suitable for the present invention may include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and nonafluoromethoxybutane.

[0179] Preferably, the fatty substance is selected from hydrocarbon oils, waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon-based oils, waxes and mixtures thereof of plant or mineral origin, more preferably from jojoba oil, especially jojoba seed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, especially olive fruit oil, rose hip oil, especially rose hip fruit oil, candelilla wax and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Silicone surfactants may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. The term organopolysiloxane refers to a compound having a structure in which silicon atoms and oxygen atoms alternate and which contains organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms.

[0181] Fluorinated surfactants may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides or organopolysiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups. The term perfluoroalkyl refers to an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0182] Fluorosilicone surfactants may be selected from perfluoroalkyl polydimethylsiloxanes, perfluoroalkylsilanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.

[0183] Hydrophobic compounds may also be selected from metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid. As metal soaps, fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms may be particularly mentioned, and especially those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal of the metal soap may particularly be zinc or magnesium. As metal soaps, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.

[0184] The hydrophobic compound may also be selected from N-acylated amino acids or their salts, which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoacyl. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. In this way, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative may particularly be any one of glutamic acid derivatives and / or their salts, and more particularly stearoyl glutamate salts, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0185] The amount of the hydrophobic compound, preferably the fatty substance, in the hydrophobic coating is 50% by weight or more, preferably 80% by weight or more, and more preferably 95% by weight or more based on the total weight of the hydrophobic coating.

[0186] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic surface-treated pigment is selected from pigments coated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate, that is, the surface of the pigment is coated or treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate.

[0187] The hydrophobic surface-treated pigment can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical properties known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant of isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the surface of the pigment through solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and the formation of covalent bonds.

[0188] The hydrophobic surface-treated pigment can be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition, and / or can be present in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less.

[0189] The amount of the hydrophobic surface-treated pigment in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 5% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably 10% by weight to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0190] (Non-ionic surfactant)

[0191] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one non-ionic surfactant other than non-ionic silicone surfactants. Two or more non-ionic surfactants can be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of non-ionic surfactant or a combination of different types of non-ionic surfactants can be used.

[0192] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds known per se (in this regard, see, for example, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116 - 178). Thus, they can be selected, for example, from esters of alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acids, which compounds are ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated, and have at least one fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can be from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can be from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives can also be mentioned. Also, non-limiting mention can be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides containing, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides containing, for example, 1.5 to 5, for example 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; glycerol (C6 - C 24 ) polyethoxylated fatty acid mono- or diesters of alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C6 - C 24 ) alkylglucosamine derivatives; amine oxides, such as (C 10 - C 14 ) alkylamine oxides or N-(C 10 - C 14 ) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

[0193] The non-ionic surfactants can preferably be selected from mono-olefinated, poly-olefinated, mono-glycerolated, or poly-glycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The alkylene oxide units are more particularly ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, or a combination thereof, and preferably ethylene oxide units.

[0194] Examples of mono-olefinated or poly-olefinated non-ionic surfactants that can be mentioned include:

[0195] Mono-olefinated or poly-olefinated (C8 - C 24 ) alkylphenols,

[0196] Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain, mono-olefinated or poly-olefinated C8 - C 30 alcohols,

[0197] Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain, mono-olefinated or poly-olefinated C8 - C 30 amides,

[0198] Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C8 - C 30Esters of acids with polyalkylene glycols,

[0199] Saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C8-C 30 Mono- or poly-oxyethylenated esters of acids with sorbitol,

[0200] Saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-oxyethylenated vegetable oils,

[0201] Condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, especially alone or as a mixture.

[0202] The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, and most preferably between 2 and 50, moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant does not contain any propylene oxide units.

[0203] According to one embodiment of the invention, the poly-oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants are selected from poly-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols) and poly-oxyethylenated fatty esters (polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids).

[0204] Examples of poly-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30 alcohols) include adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 7 to 50 ethylene oxide units and more particularly those containing from 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units (laureth-6 to laureth-12 ethers, as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide units (beheneth-5 to beheneth-50, as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 7 to 30 ethylene oxide units (cetearyl alcohol ethers - 7 to cetearyl alcohol ethers - 30, as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 7 to 30 ethylene oxide units (cetyl alcohol ethers - 7 to cetyl alcohol ethers - 30, as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 7 to 30 ethylene oxide units (stearyl alcohol ethers - 7 to stearyl alcohol ethers - 30, as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 8 to 50 ethylene oxide units (isostearyl alcohol ethers - 8 to isostearyl alcohol ethers - 50, as CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.

[0205] As examples of mono- or poly-glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, mono- or poly-glycerolated C8-C 40 alcohols are preferably used.

[0206] In particular, mono- or poly-glycerolated C8-C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:

[0207] RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O] m -H or RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH2O] m -H

[0208] wherein R represents a straight-chain or branched C8-C 40 and preferably C8-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and m represents a value from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

[0209] As examples of compounds suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and stearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[0210] The alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way as the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in commercial products, several classes of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist in the form of a mixture.

[0211] Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, preferably used are C8 / C 10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, C 10 / C 12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, and C 12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

[0212] The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C 40 fatty esters can correspond to the formula: R’O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR”’)-O] m -R” or R’O-[CH(CH2OR”’)-CH2O] m -R”

[0213] wherein each of R’, R” and R”’ independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a straight-chain or branched C8-C 40且 preferably C8-C 30 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- group, provided that at least one of R’, R” and R”’ is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a value from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

[0214] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as CTFA name: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (as CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, the fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, the polyoxyethylenated derivatives preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, oxyalkylene units, such as one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 monoglycerides or polyglycerides of fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, the polyoxyethylenated derivatives preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, oxyalkylene units; one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 sorbitan esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, the polyoxyethylenation preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, oxyalkylene units; one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkyl glucoside) esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, the polyoxyethylenated derivatives preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugars and one or more C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.

[0216] As fatty acids, preferably C 12 -C 22Mono-glycerides of fatty acids may be cited as glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof, and as their polyoxyethylenated derivatives, mono-, di- or tri-esters of fatty acids with polyoxyethylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or tri-esters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate), e.g. PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, tri- and / or tri-iso-stearate). Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of the mono-glycerides of fatty acids contain from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, e.g. PEG-20 glyceryl tri-iso-stearate.

[0217] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, e.g. a product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold by Uniqema under the name ARLACEL 165, and a product containing glyceryl stearate (mono- and di-glyceryl stearate) and potassium stearate, sold by Goldschmidt under the name TEGIN (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0218] As (a) fatty acid, preferably C8-C 22 fatty acid, more preferably C 10 -C 20 Poly-glycerides of fatty acids (mono-, di- or tri-esters of fatty acids with polyglycerol) may be mentioned products containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 6 glycerol units, e.g. polyglyceryl laurate, oleate, myristate, caprylate or stearate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, e.g. polyglyceryl monolaurate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-(iso)stearate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dilaurate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dimyristate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trimyristate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trioleate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl tricaprylate containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0219] C8-C 24The sorbitan esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyethylenated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and esters of fatty acids with alkoxylated sorbitan containing, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold by ICI under the name Tween 65, polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or compounds sold by Uniqema under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60.

[0220] As esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucoses, mention may be made of glucose palmitate, alkyl glucoside sesquistearates such as methyl glucoside sesquistearate, alkyl glucoside palmitates such as methyl glucoside or ethyl glucoside palmitate, methyl glucoside fatty esters, diesters of methyl glucoside with oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside dioleate), mixed esters of methyl glucoside with a mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside dioleate / hydroxystearate), esters of methyl glucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside isostearate), esters of methyl glucoside with lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside laurate), mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside with isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside sesquiisostearate), mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside with stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucoside sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucate SS, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucoses, mention may be made, for example, of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with methyl glucoside and in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methyl glucoside with stearic acid having approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucoside distearate), such as the product sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucam E-20 distearate, polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of mono- and diesters of methyl glucoside with stearic acid having approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucoside sesquistearate) and in particular the products sold by AMERCHOL under the name Glucamate SSE-20 and by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Grillocose PSE-20, and mixtures thereof.

[0222] As sucrose esters, for example, sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate, and sucrose monolaurate can be cited.

[0223] As sugar ethers, alkyl polyglucosides can be used, and in particular, for example, ethers of sugars and C8-C 24 fatty alcohols can be cited, which include decyl glucoside, such as the product sold by Kao Chemicals under the name MYDOL 10, the product sold by Henkel under the name PLANTAREN 2000, and the product sold by Seppic under the name ORAMIX NS10, octanoyl / decoyl glucoside, such as the product sold by Seppic under the name ORAMIX CG 110 or the product sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold by Henkel under the names PLANTAREN 1200N and PLANTACARE 1200, coco-glucoside, such as the product sold by Henkel under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP, cetearyl glucoside which can be mixed with cetearyl alcohol, which is, for example, sold by Seppic under the name MONTANOV 68, by Goldschmidt under the name TEGO-CARE CG90, and by Henkel under the name EMULGADE KE3302; arachidyl glucoside, such as the product sold by Seppic under the name MONTANOV202 in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside; coco-ethyglucoside, such as the product sold by Seppic under the name MONTANOV 82 in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.

[0224] Mixtures of glycerol esters of alkoxylated vegetable oils can also be cited, for example, a mixture of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and coconut (7 EO) glycerol esters.

[0225] The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention preferably contains an alkenyl or branched C 12 -C 22 acyl chain, such as oleyl or isostearyl.

[0226] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

[0227] HO(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b (C2H4O) c H

[0228] where a, b, and c are integers such that a + c is from 2 to 100 and b is from 14 to 60.

[0229] The non-ionic surfactant of the present invention is preferably selected from esters of polyhydric alcohols and fatty acids.

[0230] In a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant of the present invention is preferably selected from C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 monoglycerides or polyglycerides of fatty acids. The fatty acid can be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated and straight-chain or branched-chain, preferably branched-chain. More preferably, the fatty acid is saturated and branched-chain.

[0231] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyhydric alcohol of the non-ionic surfactant includes at least one sugar alcohol. The sugar alcohol can be selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, arabinitol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the sugar alcohol is sorbitol.

[0232] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 sorbitan esters of fatty acids. More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from one or more saturated and branched-chain C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 -C 22 sorbitan esters of fatty acids.

[0233] C8-C 24 sorbitan esters of fatty acids and their polyoxyethylated derivatives can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and esters of fatty acids.

[0234] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic surfactant of the present invention does not include polyoxyalkylene units.

[0235] The non-ionic surfactant can be present in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or can be present in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less.

[0236] The amount of the non-ionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0237] Aqueous phase

[0238] The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises at least one (e) polyol, (f) monohydric alcohol, and (g) anionic polymer. The aqueous phase may comprise an aqueous medium, i.e., water and optionally a water-soluble solvent in addition to components (e) to (g).

[0239] The amount of the aqueous phase is at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of the aqueous phase may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, more preferably 50% by weight or less, and even more preferably 40% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0240] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and is miscible with water (miscibility with water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0241] In one embodiment of the present invention, the amount of water and alcohols including monohydric alcohols and polyols is at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of water and alcohols including monohydric alcohols and polyols may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, more preferably 50% by weight or less, and even more preferably 40% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0242] (Polyol)

[0243] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyol or a combination of different types of polyols may be used.

[0244] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0245] Suitable polyols for use in the present invention may be straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.

[0246] Preferably, the polyol that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is a straight-chain or branched-chain, preferably straight-chain alkyl-type compound having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functional groups.

[0247] Polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 8 carbon atoms or, for example, 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0248] The polyols that can be used according to the present invention are selected from straight-chain or branched-chain polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably straight-chain polyols; in particular, the following can be mentioned:

[0249] - diols such as hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, pentanediol, propylene glycol, and butanediol; and

[0250] - triols such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0251] and mixtures thereof.

[0252] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of polyol in the composition is at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The polyol can be present in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight or less, and even more preferably 15% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0253] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol combination comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, especially a triol. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can combinatorially comprise at least 3% by weight of diol and at least 3% by weight of polyol having three or more -OH functional groups relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] Specifically, the composition can comprise a combination of at least one diol and at least one triol. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can comprise at least 3% by weight of diol and at least 3% by weight of triol relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises diol in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight and triol in an amount of 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; more preferably diol in an amount of 2% to 15% by weight and triol in an amount of 2% to 10% by weight; and even more preferably diol in an amount of 3% to 15% by weight and triol in an amount of 3% to 10% by weight.

[0255] (monohydric alcohol)

[0256] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one monohydric alcohol in the aqueous phase. Two or more types of monohydric alcohols can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monohydric alcohol or a combination of different types of monohydric alcohols can be used.

[0257] The monohydric alcohol forms the aqueous phase of the present invention. Thus, the monohydric alcohol herein can refer to a water-soluble, hydrophilic monohydric alcohol. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" herein means that the substance is soluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa) at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water.

[0258] The monohydric alcohol can be a straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated monohydric alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.

[0259] In one embodiment, the monohydric alcohol can be an aliphatic monohydric alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0260] Here, the term "aliphatic monohydric alcohol" refers to any straight-chain or branched-chain saturated alkane compound having only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.

[0261] The aliphatic monohydric alcohol present in the composition of the present invention can be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0262] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monohydric alcohol can be selected from straight-chain aliphatic monohydric alcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0263] The amount of the monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition; and / or can be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less.

[0264] The amount of the monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 3% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably 5% by weight to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0265] (Anionic polymer)

[0266] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one anionic polymer. Two or more types of anionic polymers can be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of anionic polymer or a combination of different types of anionic polymers can be used.

[0267] The anionic polymer is present in the aqueous phase of the present invention. Therefore, here the anionic polymer can be water-soluble and hydrophilic. For the purposes of the present invention, here the term "hydrophilic" means that the substance is dissolved in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa) at a concentration of at least 1% by weight based on the total weight of water.

[0268] An anionic polymer has a positive charge density. If the anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, the charge density of the anionic polymer can be from 0.1 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 1 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 4 to 10 meq / g, and if the anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer, the average degree of substitution of the anionic polymer can be from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.7, and more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5.

[0269] Preferably, the molecular weight of the anionic polymer is 1,000 or greater, preferably 5,000 or greater, even more preferably 10,000 or greater, even more preferably 15,000 or greater, and particularly 20,000 or greater; and / or 1,000,000 or less, preferably 500,000 or less, more preferably 200,000 or less, and even more preferably 100,000 or less, particularly 50,000 or less.

[0270] Preferably, the molecular weight of the anionic polymer is from 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 5,000 to 500,000, even more preferably from 10,000 to 200,000, even more preferably from 15,000 to 100,000, and particularly 20,000 - 50,000.

[0271] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" may refer to the number average molecular weight.

[0272] The anionic polymer may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged moiety selected from the following: sulfate group, sulfate ester / salt group, sulfonic acid group, sulfonate ester / salt group, phosphoric acid group, phosphate ester / salt group, phosphonic acid group, phosphonate ester / salt group, carboxylic acid group, and carboxylate ester / salt group.

[0273] The anionic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two monomers and those obtained from more than two monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three monomers.

[0274] The anionic polymer can be selected from natural and synthetic anionic polymers.

[0275] The anionic polymer may contain at least one hydrophobic chain.

[0276] An anionic polymer that may contain at least one hydrophobic chain can be obtained by copolymerizing the following: monomers (a) selected from carboxylic acids (monomer a') containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (monomer a"), non-surface-active monomers (b) containing ethylenic unsaturation different from (a), and / or monomers (c) containing ethylenic unsaturation produced by the reaction of acrylic monomers containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation or isocyanate monomers containing monoethylenic unsaturation with mono-hydroxy nonionic amphiphilic components or with aliphatic primary or secondary amines.

[0277] Therefore, an anionic polymer having at least one hydrophobic chain can be obtained through two synthetic routes:

[0278] - By copolymerizing monomer (a') and (c), or (a'), (b) and (c), or (a") and (c), or (a"), (b) and (c),

[0279] - Or by modifying (and in particular esterifying or amidating) a copolymer formed from monomer (a') or from monomer (a') and (b), or (a") and (b) with a mono-hydroxy nonionic amphiphilic compound or an aliphatic primary or secondary amine.

[0280] As copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, mention may be made in particular of those disclosed in the article "Micelle formation of random polymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering–Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694 - 3704", as well as applications EP-A-0 750 899 and EP-A-1 069 172.

[0281] The carboxylic acids containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation that constitute monomer (a') can be selected from a variety of acids, and in particular from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, and maleic acid. Preferably acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.

[0282] The copolymer may comprise monomers (b) containing monoethylenic unsaturation that do not have surfactant properties. Preferred monomers are those which, when homopolymerized, give water-insoluble polymers. They may be selected, for example, from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylates, such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates. More particularly preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers that may be used are, for example, styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, these being those in which the single alkenyl group is the only reactive group under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers containing groups that react under the action of heat, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, may optionally be used.

[0283] Monomer (c) is obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation (such as (a)) or an isocyanate monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation with a monohydroxy nonionic amphiphilic compound or a fatty primary or secondary amine.

[0284] The monohydroxy nonionic amphiphilic compounds or fatty primary or secondary amines used to produce the nonionic monomer (c) are well-known. Monohydroxy nonionic amphiphilic compounds are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds containing an alkylene oxide that forms the hydrophilic part of the molecule. The hydrophobic compound generally contains a fatty alcohol or an alkylphenol, in which a carbonaceous chain containing at least six carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic compound.

[0285] Preferred monohydroxy nonionic amphiphilic compounds are compounds having the following formula (V):

[0286] R(OCH2CHR’) m (OCH2CH2) n OH(V)

[0287] wherein R is selected from alkyl or alkylene groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms and alkaryl groups having an alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R’ is selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is an average value of about 1 to 150 and m is an average value of about 0 to 50, provided that n is at least as large as m.

[0288] Preferably, in the compound of formula (V), the R group is selected from alkyl groups containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms and alkylphenyl groups in which the alkyl group is C8-C 13 ; the R’ group is methyl; m = 0 and n = 1 to 25.

[0289] Preferred fatty primary and secondary amines contain one or two alkyl chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0290] The monomers for forming the nonionic urethane monomer (c) can be selected from compounds with highly different structures. Any compound containing copolymerizable unsaturation, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or allylic unsaturation, can be used. The monomer (c) can particularly be obtained from isocyanates containing monoethylenic unsaturation, especially, for example, α,α-dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate.

[0291] The monomer (c) can particularly be selected from acrylate, methacrylate, or itaconate of oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6-C 30 fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate, oxyethylenated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate, oxyethylenated (20 EO) monoceyl itaconate, oxyethylenated (20 EO) monostearyl itaconate, or acrylate modified by polyoxyethylenated (25 EO) C 12 -C 24 alcohols and oxyethylenated (1 to 50 EO) C6-C 30 dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of fatty alcohols, especially, for example, dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol.

[0292] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the anionic polymer is selected from acrylic acid terpolymers obtained from: (a) carboxylic acids containing α,β-ethylenic unsaturation, (b) non-surfactant monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation different from (a), and (c) nonionic urethane monomers, which are reaction products of monohydroxy nonionic amphiphilic compounds and isocyanates containing monoethylenic unsaturation.

[0293] As anionic polymers containing at least one hydrophobic chain, particularly mention may be made of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold by Rohm&Haas under the name Acusol 823 as a 30% aqueous dispersion; acrylate / stearyl alcohol polyether-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold by Rohm&Haas under the name Aculyn22; (meth)acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylenated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate terpolymer, such as the product sold by Rohm&Haas under the name Aculyn 28 as an aqueous emulsion; acrylic acid / oxyethylenated (20 EO) monoceyl itaconate copolymer, such as the product sold by National Starch under the name Structure 3001 as a 30% aqueous dispersion; acrylic acid / oxyethylenated (20 EO) monostearyl itaconate copolymer, such as the product sold by National Starch under the name Structure 2001 as a 30% aqueous dispersion; acrylate / modified by polyoxyethylenated (25 EO) C12 -C 24 Alcohol-modified acrylate copolymers, such as 30-32% copolymer latex sold by 3V SA under the name Synthalen W 2000; or dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate terpolymers of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol, such as the product disclosed in document EP-A-0 173 109 as a 24% aqueous dispersion and containing 40 ethylene oxide groups.

[0294] The anionic polymer can also be a polyester-5, such as the product having the following chemical formula sold by EASTMAN CHEMICAL under the name Eastman AQ TM 55S Polymer.

[0295] HO-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-A-G-OH

[0296] SO3 - Na + SO3 - Na +

[0297] A: Dicarboxylic acid moiety

[0298] G: Diol moiety

[0299] SO3 - Na + : Sodium sulfonate group

[0300] OH: Hydroxyl group

[0301] Preferably, the anionic polymer is selected from polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and cellulose polymers (such as carboxymethyl cellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers, and their salts.

[0302] The maleic acid copolymer can contain one or more maleic acid comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrrolidone, olefins having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and styrene.

[0303] Thus, "maleic copolymer" is understood to mean any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from the following: vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrrolidone, olefins having 2 to 20 carbon atoms such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutene, diisobutene or isooctene, and styrene, the maleic comonomer being optionally partially or fully hydrolyzed. A hydrophilic polymer will preferably be used, that is to say a polymer having a solubility in water of greater than or equal to 2 g / l.

[0304] In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the maleic copolymer may have a molar fraction of maleic acid units between 0.1 and 1, more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.

[0305] The weight-average molar mass of the maleic copolymer may be between 1,000 and 500,000, and preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.

[0306] Preferably, the maleic copolymer is a styrene / maleic copolymer, and more preferably a sodium styrene / maleic copolymer.

[0307] A copolymer of styrene and maleic acid in a 50 / 50 ratio will preferably be used.

[0308] For example, a styrene / maleic (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of a 30% ammonium salt in water, sold by Cray Valley under the reference name or a styrene / maleic (50 / 50) copolymer in the form of a 40% sodium salt in water, sold by Cray Valley under the reference name may be used.

[0309] The use of a styrene / maleic copolymer, such as sodium styrene / maleic copolymer, can improve the wettability of the films prepared from the compositions according to the invention.

[0310] According to one embodiment of the invention, preferably, the anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives.

[0311] Hyaluronic acid may be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0312]

[0313] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" particularly includes the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of the following formula:

[0314]

[0315] This is the smallest part of hyaluronic acid containing the disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0316] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes linear polymers comprising the above-mentioned polymeric units linked together in the chain via alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, which have a molecular weight (MW) that can be between 380 and 1,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends mostly on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or on the preparation method.

[0317] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronates. As salts, mention may be made of alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, aluminum salts and mixtures thereof.

[0318] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in the pericellular gel, in the connective tissue of vertebrate organs, such as the ground substance of the dermis and epithelial tissues, and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial fluid of joints, in the vitreous humor, in human umbilical cords and in the comb processes of cockscombs.

[0319] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" includes all parts or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight especially within the above-mentioned molecular weight range.

[0320] In the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid moieties that do not have inflammatory activity are preferably used.

[0321] For examples of various hyaluronic acid moieties, reference may be made to the document "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699 - 715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

[0322] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid moiety suitable for the uses covered by the present invention has a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da, i.e., so-called low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0323] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, especially those in which all or some of the carboxyl groups of the acid functional groups are esterified with oxyethylated alkyls or alcohols containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially those having a degree of substitution of the D-glucuronic acid level of hyaluronic acid of 0.5 to 50%.

[0324] In particular, mention may be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have been particularly described in "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification" by D. Campoccia et al., Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0325] The hyaluronic acid derivative may be, for example, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

[0326] The above molecular weights also apply to hyaluronic acid esters.

[0327] The amount of the anionic polymer in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0328] The amount of the anionic polymer in the composition according to the invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0329] The amount of the anionic polymer in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0330] (Other components)

[0331] · Oil

[0332] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil in the oil phase. Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0333] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oil, those commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0334] Among the oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.

[0335] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oils do not contain any silicon atoms.

[0336] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0337] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil having a solubility parameter δ at 25 °C a not equal to 0 (J / cm 3 ). 1 / 2 of the oil.

[0338] In particular, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose chemical structure is formed essentially by carbon and hydrogen atoms or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0339] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameter in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0340] According to this Hansen space:

[0341] -δ D characterizes the London dispersion forces generated by the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions;

[0342] -δ p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0343] -δ h characterizes the forces of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, etc.);

[0344] -δ a is determined by the following equation: δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 .

[0345] The parameters δ p , δ h , δ D and δ a are expressed in (J / cm3 ) 1 / 2 。

[0346] Preferably, the polar oil used according to the present invention has a δ between 4 and 9.1 a , preferably between 6 and 9.1, and even better between 7.3 and 9.1 of δ a 。

[0347] The oil can be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, etc.; a polar oil, such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0348] The oil can be selected from oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0349] As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made, for example, of linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oleifera oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0350] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made, for example, of squalene and squalane.

[0351] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils, such as isododecane and isocetane, ester oils other than alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates, ether oils, and synthetic triglycerides.

[0352] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C1-C 26 liquid ester of an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched-chain C1-C 26 aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being greater than or equal to 10.

[0353] Preferably, for esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0354] The ester oil of a monoester of a monocarboxylic acid and a monohydric alcohol can be represented by the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents the residue of a straight-chain or branched-chain, preferably straight-chain fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially a branched-chain, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 ≥ 10.

[0355] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0356] Preferably, the ester oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils.

[0357] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with C1-C 22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0358] Particularly mention may be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0359] As the ester oil, sugar esters and C6-C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 diesters of fatty acids may be used. Recall that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups and containing several alcohol functional groups, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0360] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose.

[0361] The sugar esters of fatty acids may in particular be selected from the esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars previously described with straight-chain or branched-chain, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0362] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and their mixtures.

[0363] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as especially the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate.

[0364] More particularly, mono-esters and di-esters are used and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono-oleate or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate.

[0365] Examples that may be mentioned are products sold by Amerchol under the name DO, which is methylglucose dioleate.

[0366] As examples of preferred ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0367] As ether oils, dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0368] R 1 -O-R 2

[0369] where

[0370] R 1 and R 2 each independently represents a straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic C4-C 24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C 18 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-C 12 alkyl group. Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are the same.

[0371] As straight-chain alkyl groups, mention may be made of butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.

[0372] As branched-chain alkyl groups, mention may be made of 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, tert-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyl octyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, 3,7-dimethyloctyl and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyl octyl.

[0373] As cyclic alkyl groups, mention may be made of cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl.

[0374] As examples of synthetic triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, decyloctyl glyceride, trimyristin, tripalmitin, trilinolein, trilaurin, tricaprin, trioctanoin, tri(capric / caprylic) glyceride and tri(capric / caprylic / linoleic) glyceride.

[0375] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.; and mixtures thereof.

[0376] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxane or polydimethylsiloxane, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxane containing at least one aryl group.

[0377] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above and containing in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via hydrocarbon-based groups.

[0378] Organic polysiloxanes are more particularly defined in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be either volatile or non-volatile.

[0379] When the silicones are volatile, they are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0380] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, which is in particular sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile 7207 or by Rhodia under the name 70045V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, which is sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile 7158, by Rhodia under the name 70045V5, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, which is sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclic copolymers, such as of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the Union Carbide Corporation, which has the following formula:

[0381] wherein a and v

[0382] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsiloxy)neopentane; and

[0383] (ii) those containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having, at 25 °C, a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, which is sold particularly by Toray Silicone Co., Ltd. under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics, Todd & Byers, published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

[0384] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mainly mentioned.

[0385] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be mentioned in a non-limiting way:

[0386] - Oils of series 47 and 70 047 sold by Rhodia or oils, such as oil 70 047V500 000;

[0387] - Oils of series sold by Rhodia;

[0388] - Oils of series 200 from Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 / s; and

[0389] - Oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18). Oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0390] Polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name polydimethylsiloxanol (CTFA), can also be mentioned, such as oils of series 48 from Rhodia.

[0391] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, polydiarylsiloxanes can be mentioned, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0392] Phenyl silicone oil can be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0393]

[0394] where

[0395] R1-R10 Each independently is saturated or unsaturated, a linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a C1-C 12 hydrocarbon-based group, and more preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based group, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl, and

[0396] m, n, p and q are each independently an integer from 0 to 900 (inclusive), preferably from 0 to 500 (inclusive), and more preferably from 0 to 100 (inclusive),

[0397] with the proviso that the sum n + m + q is not zero.

[0398] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

[0399] - Oils from the 70 641 series from Rhodia oils;

[0400] - Oils from the 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0401] - The oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0402] - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0403] - Certain oils from the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF1265.

[0404] As phenyl silicone oil, phenylpolymethylsiloxane (in the above formula, R1 to R 10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m = 1) is preferred.

[0405] Organically modified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethoxy and / or polypropoxy groups. Thus, mention may be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, as well as the oils L722 and L77 from Union Carbide Corporation.

[0406] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0407] - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isocetane, isododecane and isodecane;

[0408] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene, for example and squalane; and

[0409] - Mixtures of alkanes, such as C9-12 alkanes, C10-13 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C18-21 alkanes, C8-9 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-10 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-11 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-16 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C10-12 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-14 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-15 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C12-13 alkanes / cycloalkanes.

[0410] As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isocetane, isododecane, squalane; mineral oils (such as liquid paraffin), paraffin wax, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0411] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohols means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 8 or more, preferably 10 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be straight-chain or branched.

[0412] Fatty alcohols can have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, straight-chain and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R can be selected from C 12 -C 20 alkyl and C 12 -C 20 alkenyl. R can be substituted or unsubstituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0413] As examples of fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0414] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0415] Thus, fatty alcohols can be selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C 30 alcohols, preferably straight-chain or branched saturated C 10 -C 30alcohols, and more preferably straight-chain or branched saturated C 12 -C 20 alcohols.

[0416] As used herein, the term "saturated fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any straight-chain or branched saturated C8-C 30 fatty alcohols. Among the straight-chain or branched saturated C8-C 30 fatty alcohols, straight-chain or branched saturated C 12 -C 20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any straight-chain or branched saturated C 16 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C 16 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.

[0417] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, or a mixture thereof (such as cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

[0418] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol for use in the composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0419] Also preferably, the oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight below 600 g / mol.

[0420] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight, such as below 600 g / mol, and is selected from among the following: ester oils having one or more short hydrocarbon chains (C1-C 12 ) (such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (such as volatile silicones, such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (such as isododecane, isocetane, and squalane), oils of the branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C 12 -C 30 ) type, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils, such as dioctyl ether.

[0421] Preferably, the oil is selected from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof. Even more preferably, the oil contains both an ester oil and a fatty alcohol, in particular a monoester of a monocarboxylic acid and a monohydric alcohol represented by the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents the residue of a straight-chain fatty acid containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and a fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated branched groups containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0422] The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention can be 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; and / or can be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less.

[0423] The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention can be from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0424] · Water

[0425] The composition according to the invention preferably includes water in the aqueous phase.

[0426] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention can be 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; and / or can be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less.

[0427] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention can be from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0428] · Thickening aid

[0429] The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one thickening aid selected from polyoxyethylenated silicones and alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates. Two or more thickening aids can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of thickening aid or a combination of different types of thickening aids can be used.

[0430] The thickening aid of the present invention can be included in the oil phase and is used to assist lipophilic or oil thickeners, such as spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, in order to achieve good stability.

[0431] The thickening aid can be selected from polyoxyethylenated silicones and alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates.

[0432] - Polyoxyalkylated silicone

[0433] In the compositions according to the invention, a single type of polyoxyalkylated silicone or a combination of different types of polyoxyalkylated silicones can be used.

[0434] In the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylated silicone" refers to any silicone containing at least one oxyalkylation unit.

[0435] The oxyalkylation units in the polyoxyalkylated silicone can be alternating oxygen atoms and linear or branched C2-C 10 alkylene groups, preferably C2-C6 alkylene groups, and more preferably C2 and / or C3 (ethylene and propylene respectively) alkylene polyoxy groups. The oxyalkylation unit can be represented by (-C x H 2x O-) a where x is from 2 to 6 and a is greater than or equal to 2. Preferably, the oxyalkylation unit is an oxyethylene or oxypropylene unit, or a combination thereof, and preferably an oxyethylene unit.

[0436] The polyoxyalkylated silicone preferably contains from 2 to 100, more preferably from 3 to 50, and even more preferably from 4 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylated silicone does not contain any propylene oxide units.

[0437] In one embodiment, the polyoxyalkylated silicone contains from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, preferably from 3 to 40 oxyethylene units, more preferably from 4 to 30 oxyethylene units, and even more preferably from 5 to 20 oxyethylene units.

[0438] In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylated silicone includes dimethicone copolyols, which are polyorganosiloxanes containing oxyalkylation units, such as polyethoxy and / or polypropoxy moieties.

[0439] The polyoxyalkylation units of the polyoxyalkylated silicone can be substituted by at least one alkyl and / or amine group. The alkyl group can be a linear or branched C1 to C 30 chain, preferably a C4 to C 22 chain. The substituted amine moiety can be selected from, for example, amino C1-C4 alkyl moieties.

[0440] The polyoxyalkylated silicone can be a compound of the following formula (I):

[0441]

[0442] wherein:

[0443] R1, R2, and R3 each independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group or the group -(CH2) x -(OCH2CH2) y -(OCH2CH2CH2) z -OR4, where at least one of the groups R1, R2, or R3 is not an alkyl group; R4 is hydrogen, an alkyl group, or an acyl group;

[0444] A is an integer from 0 to 200;

[0445] B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not both equal to zero;

[0446] x is an integer from 1 to 6;

[0447] y is an integer from 1 to 30;

[0448] z is an integer from 0 to 5.

[0449] According to one embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is methyl, x is an integer from 2 to 6, and y is an integer from 4 to 30.

[0450] As an example of the polyoxyalkylated silicone of formula (I), mention may be made of the compound of formula (II):

[0451]

[0452] where A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10, and y is an integer from 10 to 20.

[0453] As an example of the polyoxyalkylated silicone of formula (I), mention may also be made of the compound of formula (III):

[0454] H-(OCH2CH2) y -(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO] A’ -(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2) y -OH (III)

[0455] where A' and y are integers from 10 to 20.

[0456] The polyoxyalkylenated silicones of the present invention that can be used are those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695, and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III), where respectively, A is 22, B is 2, and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3, and y is 12. Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III), where A is 15 and y is 13.

[0457] Commercially available products of polydimethylsiloxane copolymers include, for example, polydimethylsiloxane copolymers such as PEG10 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG14 polydimethylsiloxane; PEG12 polydimethylsiloxane labeled with the trade name OFX-0193FLUID, PEG / PPG18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane silicone sold by Dow Corning under the name 5225C, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane silicone, such as that offered by Evonik under the name ABIL EM 90.

[0458] - Alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates

[0459] In the composition according to the invention, a single type of alkyl carbonate or alkylene carbonate or a combination of different types of alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates can be used.

[0460] According to one embodiment, the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the alkyl of the alkyl carbonate present in the composition according to the invention contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and is finally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0461] According to another embodiment, the total carbon of the alkylene chain of the alkylene carbonate and / or the total carbon of the alkyl of the alkyl carbonate present in the composition according to the invention is 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0462] Alkylene carbonates are particularly selected from those of the following formula (4):

[0463]

[0464] In this formula (4)

[0465] R’ represents a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group;

[0466] "R” represents a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, or a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group;

[0467] m is 1, 2, or 3.

[0468] Preferably, the group R’ represents a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, or a straight-chain or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0469] R” represents a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched C1-C2 alkyl group, or a straight-chain or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0470] Preferably, m is 1.

[0471] As particularly advantageous examples of the alkylene carbonate, mention may be made of compounds in which the group R’ represents a hydrogen atom (corresponding to ethylene carbonate), a methyl group (corresponding to propylene carbonate), an ethyl group (corresponding to 1,2-butylene carbonate), or a hydroxymethyl group (R’ = -CH2OH; corresponding to glycerol carbonate).

[0472] Preferably, the alkylene carbonate used is propylene carbonate.

[0473] The alkyl carbonate is particularly selected from those of the following formula (5):

[0474] R’-O-CO-O-R”

[0475] In formula (5)

[0476] R’ represents a straight-chain or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, or a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group;

[0477] R” represents a straight-chain or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, or a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group;

[0478] The sum of the carbons of R’ and R” is 2 to 6.

[0479] Preferably, the group R’ represents a straight-chain C1-C3 alkyl group or a straight-chain C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0480] R” represents a straight-chain C1-C3 alkyl group or a straight-chain C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0481] More particularly, mention may be made of diethyl carbonate and dipropyl carbonate.

[0482] The carbonate according to the invention is preferably an alkylene carbonate and more particularly propylene carbonate.

[0483] The thickening aid may be present in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or may be present in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less.

[0484] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the thickening aid may be from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0485] · Film-forming polymer

[0486] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer. Two or more film-forming polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of film-forming polymer or a combination of different types of film-forming polymers may be used.

[0487] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" refers to a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from a compound called a monomer). This unit or these units are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.

[0488] The term "film-forming polymer" refers to a polymer capable of forming a macroscopically continuous film, either alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, which film adheres to a support, in particular a keratin material, preferably an adhesive film, and still better has adhesive and mechanical properties such that the film can be separable and separately manipulable, for example when the film is prepared by pouring onto a non-sticky surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

[0489] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming polymer may be selected from:

[0490] - Film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular fat-soluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium;

[0491] - Film-forming polymers dispersible in an organic solvent medium; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium and the polymer remains stable and / or compatible once incorporated into the medium. In particular, such a polymer may be in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, preferably a dispersion in a silicone-based or hydrocarbon-based oil; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersion of the polymer comprises polymer particles stabilized on its surface with at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are generally referred to as "NAD"; and

[0492] -A film-forming polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, the polymer remains stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, and the polymer particles can be stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often referred to as "lattices"; in this case, the composition must contain an aqueous phase.

[0493] Preferably, the film-forming polymer is selected from polyamide-silicone block polymers, block olefinic polymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carboxiloxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups, silicone resins, fat-dispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, olefin copolymers selected from amorphous olefin copolymers and olefin copolymers with controlled and moderate crystallinity, hydrocarbon-based resins having a number-average molecular weight lower than or equal to 10,000 g / ml, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silicone resins.

[0494] The film-forming silicone resin can be any silicone resin having film-forming properties.

[0495] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin can be selected from silsesquioxanes, silaneoxysilicates, and resins obtained by hydroxymethylsilylation.

[0496] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known in the art by the name "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby the silicone resin is described according to the various repeating siloxane monomer moieties constituting the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" corresponds to a different type of moiety.

[0497] The symbol "M" corresponds to the monofunctional moiety (CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 . This moiety is considered monofunctional because the silicon atom shares only one oxygen to form a chain. The "M" moiety can be represented by the following structure:

[0498]

[0499] wherein at least one methyl can be replaced to produce, for example, a moiety having the following formula: [R(CH3)2]SiO 1 / 2 . which is represented, for example, by the following structure:

[0500]

[0501] wherein R is non-methyl.

[0502] The symbol "D" corresponds to the difunctional moiety (CH3)SiO 2 / 2, where two available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen to form a polymer chain. The "D" moiety, which is an essential component element of polydimethylsiloxane oil, can be represented by the following formula:

[0503]

[0504] The symbol "T" corresponds to the trifunctional moiety (CH3)SiO 3 / 2 , where three available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen to form a polymer chain. The "T" moiety can be represented by the following structure:

[0505]

[0506] As in the "M" moiety, any one of the methyl groups can be replaced by an R group other than methyl in "D" or "T".

[0507] Finally, the symbol "Q" corresponds to the tetrafunctional moiety SiO 4 / 2 , where all four available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen to form a polymer chain. The "Q" moiety can be represented by the following structure:

[0508]

[0509] As described above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin can be selected from silaneoxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxymethylsilylation. Any silaneoxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or resin obtained by hydroxymethylsilylation that acts as a film-forming agent can be used in the composition of the present invention. The film-forming silicone resin is preferably crosslinked.

[0510] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin can be selected from substituted silaneoxysilicates, silsesquioxanes, and resins obtained by hydroxymethylsilylation. The substituted silaneoxysilicate or substituted silsesquioxane can be, for example, a silaneoxysilicate or silsesquioxane in which the methyl group has been replaced by a longer carbon chain such as an ethane, propane, or butane chain. The carbon chain can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0511] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin can be selected from silaneoxysilicates, such as the MQ resin represented by the following formula:

[0512] [(CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y (MQ moiety)

[0513] where x and y can have values in the range of 20 to 100, preferably 50 to 80.

[0514] ​According to another embodiment of the present invention, the silaneoxysilicate can be selected from all combinations of M and Q moieties, such as [(R)3Si] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y , where R is selected from methyl and longer carbon chains, such as C2-C 10 alkyl.

[0515] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming silicone resin can be a silsesquioxane represented by the following formula:

[0516] (CH3SiO 3 / 2 ) x (T moiety),

[0517] where x can have a value of up to several thousand and CH3 can be replaced by R, as described for the T moiety above.

[0518] Most preferably, the film-forming silicone resin is trimethylsiloxysilicate, such as sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SR 1000 MQ Resin.

[0519] The film-forming polymer can be present in an amount of 0.5 wt% or more, preferably 1 wt% or more, more preferably 3 wt% or more, and even more preferably 5 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and / or can be present in an amount of 20 wt% or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, more preferably 10 wt% or less, and most preferably 8 wt% or less.

[0520] The amount of the film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention can be 0.5 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably 1 wt% to 15 wt%, more preferably 3 wt% to 10 wt%, and even more preferably 5 wt% to 8 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0521] · Filler

[0522] The composition according to the present invention can comprise at least one filler other than (a) spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel, (b) at least one lipophilic thickener, and (c) hydrophobically surface-treated pigment. Two or more fillers can be combined. The filler can be inorganic or organic, preferably inorganic.

[0523] As inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, titanium dioxide, kaolin, bentonite, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogencarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soaps, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally hydrophilically or hydrophobically treated.

[0524] The inorganic filler may be composite silica particles. In the context of the present invention, the term "composite silica particles" refers to silica particles that contain a functional compound, preferably a metal oxide, therein. Thus, preferably, the composite silica particles may refer to "silica particles containing a metal oxide". Most preferably, the metal oxide is dispersed within the silica particles.

[0525] The metal oxide may preferably be selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and zirconium oxide, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly from titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide, or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, titanium dioxide may be used. In this embodiment, the composite silica particles are referred to as silica (and) titanium dioxide.

[0526] The composite silica particles may have an average particle size of 0.1 μm or greater, preferably 0.5 μm or greater, and more preferably 1 μm or greater, as determined by an image analysis method, and may have an average particle size by the image analysis method of 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, and more preferably 12 μm or less.

[0527] The "average particle size" may be determined according to the following procedure: measure the particle sizes of 50 particles using SEM images and calculate the average of the particle sizes.

[0528] The composite silica particles may be porous or non-porous, and they may have a low oil absorption capacity.

[0529] In the composite silica particles, the weight ratio of silica to the functional compound (preferably a metal oxide and most preferably titanium dioxide) may be from 9:1 to 5:5, preferably from 4:1 to 3:2, and more preferably 7:3.

[0530] The composite silica particles may be surface-treated to be hydrophobic. For example, the composite silica particles may be surface-treated with an alkylsilane.

[0531] According to the present invention, the inorganic filler has been surface-treated with at least one silicone oil and / or at least one non-silicone oil.

[0532] As the organic filler, mention may be made of acrylic polymer powder, silicone powder, wax powder, polyamide powder, polyurethane polymer powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, polyacrylonitrile powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0533] (Meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate powder may include, for example, polymethyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer, methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate crosslinked polymer, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powder, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder.

[0534] As the polyamide powder, mention may be made of those sold by Atochem under the name "Orgasol". In addition, these polyamide powder particles are known by the names "Nylon12" or "Nylon 6" according to their various physicochemical properties. The polyamide powder that can be used in the present invention may also include those sold by TORAY under the name SP500.

[0535] The filler may be present in the composition in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition, and it may be present in the composition in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less.

[0536] The amount of the filler in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 5% by weight to 25% by weight, and more preferably 10% by weight to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0537] · Skin care active ingredient

[0538] The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one skin care active ingredient. If two or more skin care active ingredients are used, they may be the same or different.

[0539] Preferably, the skin care active ingredient is a skin care cosmetic active ingredient, and more preferably a skin peeling agent, a skin whitening agent, or a skin anti-aging agent, such as an anti-wrinkle agent.

[0540] As the skin care active ingredient, mention may be made of vitamin B3 and derivatives, ascorbic acid and derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and derivatives, α-hydroxy acids, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0541] The skin care active ingredient may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.3% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition, and it may be present in the composition in an amount of 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 7% by weight or less.

[0542] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of the skin care active ingredient may be from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0543] · Additives

[0544] The composition according to the invention may further comprise any other optional additives commonly used in the cosmetic field, selected from, for example, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, hydrophobic organic solvents, gums, dyes, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, fragrances, neutralizing agents, pH regulators, antibacterial agents, other cosmetic active agents, vitamins such as tocopherol, humectants, chelating agents, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0545] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in a conventional manner. In the case where at least one of the above ingredients is solid at room temperature, the ingredient can be heated until it dissolves. Mixing of any optional ingredients can be further included and the composition can be heated until the ingredient dissolves.

[0546] [Cosmetic method]

[0547] The composition according to the invention is intended to be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be intended to be applied to keratinous substances, such as skin, scalp, hair, mucous membranes such as lips, and nails, especially skin, such as the skin of the face.

[0548] The composition according to the invention can be used as a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin makeup composition or a skin care composition, more preferably a skin makeup composition, and especially a foundation.

[0549] Thus, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method or process, preferably for caring for and / or conditioning keratinous substances, said method or process comprising:

[0550] applying a composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oil phase to keratinous substances, such as skin, scalp and lips, especially the skin of the face, said composition comprising:

[0551] (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel;

[0552] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0553] (c) at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment;

[0554] (d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids;

[0555] (e) at least one polyol;

[0556] (f) at least one monohydric alcohol; and

[0557] (g) at least one anionic polymer,

[0558] wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.

[0559] The same explanations given for the composition, (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobic surface-treated pigment; (d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monohydric alcohol; and (g) at least one anionic polymer are applicable to those for the method according to the invention. The composition for use in the method according to the invention may comprise any optional ingredients as explained above for the composition according to the invention. Examples

[0560] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

[0561] Method for preparing inventive and comparative W / O foundation compositions

[0562] The ingredients listed as A1 in Tables 1 and 2 were completely mixed at 45 °C.

[0563] Then lithium magnesium stearate montmorillonite listed as A2 was added and it was mixed at 45 °C for 5 minutes at 3,500 rpm using a Moritz homogenizer. The ingredients listed as C were added and it was mixed at 45 °C for 10 minutes at 3,500 rpm. The mixture of ingredients was cooled to 25 °C. The ingredients listed as D were added and it was mixed at room temperature for 2 minutes at 3,000 rpm, and then the ingredients listed as E were added and it was dispersed at room temperature for 5 minutes at 2,000 rpm to obtain an emulsion composition.

[0564] Spherical silylated silica aerogel was obtained from Tokuyama and had an average primary particle size of 10 μm, an average roundness of 0.88, 592 m 2The BET specific surface area of 4.0 m² / g, the pore volume measured by the BJH method of 4.0 ml / g, the oil absorption capacity measured by JIS-K6217-4 of 6.8 mL / g, and the peak pore radius measured by the BJH method of 20 nm.

[0565] Evaluate

[0566] [Texture evaluation]

[0567] Ten professional panelists evaluated the sensory aspects of "splash feeling", "moist feeling", and "moisture persistence" according to the following criteria. The "splash feeling" was evaluated during the application of the composition on the face. The "moist feeling" was evaluated 5 minutes after the application of the composition on the face. The "moisture persistence" was evaluated 6 hours after the application of the composition on the face.

[0568] (Moist feeling)

[0569] Excellent: All 5 professional panelists felt the moist feeling.

[0570] Very good: 4 out of 5 professional panelists felt the moist feeling.

[0571] Good: 3 out of 5 professional panelists felt the moist feeling.

[0572] Fair: 2 out of 5 professional panelists felt the moist feeling.

[0573] Poor: 0 - 1 out of 5 professional panelists felt the moist feeling.

[0574] (Splash feeling)

[0575] Excellent: All 5 professional panelists felt the splash feeling.

[0576] Very good: 4 out of 5 professional panelists felt the splash feeling.

[0577] Good: 3 out of 5 professional panelists felt the splash feeling.

[0578] Fair: 2 out of 5 professional panelists felt the splash feeling.

[0579] Poor: 0 - 1 out of 5 professional panelists felt the splash feeling.

[0580] (Moisture persistence)

[0581] Excellent: All 5 professional panelists felt moisture 6 hours after application.

[0582] Good: 4 out of 5 professional panelists felt moisture 6 hours after application.

[0583] Fair: 3 out of 5 professional panelists felt moisture 6 hours after application.

[0584] Moderate: 2 out of 5 professional panelists felt moisture 6 hours after application.

[0585] Poor: 0 - 1 out of 5 professional panelists felt moisture 6 hours after application.

[0586] [Stability]

[0587] (Centrifugation Test)

[0588] The centrifugation test is used to determine the stability of the formulation in the above composition. Separation after centrifugation indicates instability and is therefore generally undesirable. Transfer 7 mL of each composition to a 15 mL plastic centrifuge tube. Centrifuge the samples at 3000 rpm for 60 minutes using a KUBOTA Compact Tabletop Centrifuge 2420. Then evaluate the oil separation of the samples according to the following criteria. "N / A" in the table indicates that the test result is not available.

[0589] Excellent: No separation was observed within two months, and there was a decrease in viscosity.

[0590] Good: No separation was observed within one month, and there was no decrease in viscosity.

[0591] Moderate: No separation was observed within one month, and there was a decrease in viscosity.

[0592] Poor: Separation was observed after one day.

[0593] (Vibration Test)

[0594] The vibration test is used to determine the stability of the pigments in the above formulation. Streaks of pigments on the inner side of the glass jar indicate instability of the pigments in the formulation and are therefore generally undesirable. Fill each composition in a 50 mL glass bottle and place it in an incubator at 45 degrees Celsius overnight. Place the samples directly under vibration at 180 rpm for 60 minutes using an AS ONE Neo-Shaker NS-LR. Then evaluate the pigment aggregation of the samples by observing the appearance of the samples. "N / A" in the table indicates that the test result is not available.

[0595] Outstanding: No streaks or spots of pigments were observed.

[0596] Excellent: Very small spots of pigments were observed.

[0597] Good: Small spots of pigments were observed.

[0598] General: Streaks of the pigment were observed.

[0599] Poor: Spots of the pigment were observed.

[0600] The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

[0601] Table 1

[0602]

[0603]

[0604] Table 2

[0605]

[0606]

[0607] As shown in Tables 1 and 2 above, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6, which contain a combination of components (a) to (g) and an aqueous phase in an amount of 30% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, show good sensory properties in terms of "water splash feeling", "moist feeling" and "moisture persistence". In addition, these compositions exhibit good stability for pigment dispersibility.

[0608] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not contain the ionic surfactant of the present invention, shows insufficient sensory properties and pigment stability. The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which does not contain the pigment with hydrophobic surface treatment, shows poor phase and pigment stability. The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which does not contain the monohydric alcohol, shows insufficient sensory properties and phase stability, and poor pigment stability. The composition according to Comparative Example 4, which does not contain the anionic polymer, does not provide an improved water splash feeling. The composition according to Comparative Example 5, which does not contain the anionic polymer and contains less than 30% by weight of the aqueous phase, shows insufficient sensory properties. The composition according to Comparative Example 6, which does not contain the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel of the present invention, shows poor moisture persistence. The composition according to Comparative Example 7, which contains less than 30% by weight of the aqueous phase, does not provide sufficient water splash feeling.

[0609] Therefore, it can be concluded that the compositions according to the present invention have great benefits because they can provide excellent cosmetic properties, such as providing a fresh and moist feeling, and good moisture persistence, while showing good formulation stability. Therefore, the compositions according to the present invention are very useful as cosmetic compositions for keratinous substances, such as the skin, and particularly as foundations.

Claims

1. A cosmetic emulsion composition having at least one aqueous phase and at least one oil phase, the cosmetic emulsion composition comprising: (a) at least one spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophobically surface-treated pigment; (d) at least one non-ionic surfactant other than non-ionic silicone surfactants; (e) at least one polyol; (f) at least one monohydric alcohol; and (g) at least one anionic polymer, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount of 30% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel is a spherical hydrophobic aerogel of silylated silica.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the spherical hydrophobic silica aerogel has an average roundness of 0.8 or greater, preferably 0.82 or greater, and less than 1, preferably 0.99 or less, more preferably 0.98 or less, even more preferably 0.97 or less, even still more preferably 0.96 or less, and most preferably 0.95 or less, the average roundness being determined by an image analysis method.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the lipophilic thickener is selected from inorganic lipophilic thickeners.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydrophobically surface-treated pigment is coated with isopropyl titanate triisostearate.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyol combination comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, particularly a triol.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the polyol combination comprises at least 3% by weight of at least one diol and at least 3% by weight of at least one polyol having three or more -OH functional groups, particularly a triol, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the anionic polymer has a number average molecular weight of 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 5,000 to 500,000, even more preferably 10,000 to 200,000, even more preferably 15,000 to 100,000, and particularly 20,000 to 50,000.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, and cellulose polymers (such as carboxymethyl cellulose), anionic (co)polyamino acids such as (co)polyglutamic acid, (co)poly(meth)acrylic acid, (co)polyamic acid, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate), dextran sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, (co)polymaleic acid, (co)polyfumaric acid, maleic acid (co)polymers, and salts thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, and salts thereof, and preferably hyaluronic acid and acetylated hyaluronic acid, and salts thereof.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from esters of polyols and fatty acids.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising at least one film-forming polymer, which is preferably selected from silicone resins.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one thickening aid, which is selected from polyoxyethylenated silicones and alkyl carbonates or alkylene carbonates.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the cosmetic composition is a skin makeup or skin care composition, preferably a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a foundation.

15. A cosmetic method for keratinous substances such as the skin, the cosmetic method comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous substance.

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