Micro suede filament fabric based on micro-crimp sea-island superfine fibers and preparation method of micro suede filament fabric

Abstract

The invention discloses a suede filament fabric based on micro-crimp sea-island superfine fibers and a preparation method of the suede filament fabric, and belongs to the technical field of sea-island fibers. HVPET and LVPET are used as double-island components, COPET is used as a sea component, micro-crimp sea-island superfine MOY fibers are prepared through a three-component fusion composite spinning technology, then the micro-crimp sea-island superfine MOY fibers are used as coating filaments, high-shrinkage FDY polyester fibers are used as core filaments, and the different-shrinkage DTY composite filaments are prepared through the elasticizing and composite drafting network technology. Finally, the differential shrinkage DTY composite filaments serve as warp yarns or weft yarns, and the micro-crimp sea-island superfine fiber suede filament fabric is prepared through the procedures of weaving, refining, loosening, alkali decrement, sanding and shaping. The application of the suede filament fabric in the fields of high-end clothes, fashion home textiles, automotive interiors and the like is expanded, and the suede filament fabric has important significance in promoting innovation and upgrading of the textile industry.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of sea-island fibers, and more specifically, to a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] As a typical representative of differential fibers, sea-island superfine fibers are unique in that they have a composite structure with a "sea" component coating an "island" component, and ultrafine fibers with a monofilament diameter in the micron or nanometer range are obtained through post-treatment. With an extremely small monofilament diameter and a high surface area, sea-island superfine fibers exhibit a soft handfeel, excellent moisture absorption and breathability, and at the same time possess high strength, abrasion resistance, and excellent thermal stability. These characteristics enable them to show broad application prospects in products imitating natural fibers.

[0003] Chinese Patent CN1824858A discloses a manufacturing method of a three-color heterodyed and heteroshrinking superfine fiber false-twist processed yarn. A cation-dyeable sea-island superfine pre-oriented yarn and a semi-dull sea-island superfine pre-oriented yarn are stretch false-twisted and then mixed with a high-shrinkage polyester filament by high-pressure air jetting to obtain an ultrafine heteroshrinking filament with two or more colors of heterodye and uneven thickness.

[0004] Chinese Patent CN100595358A discloses a manufacturing method of a wool-like polyester composite filament. Using a sea-island superfine polyester MOY filament and a conventional polyester MOY filament as raw materials, they are drawn and false-twisted and deformed in combination to form a mixed fiber and stranded yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of less than 6%. This mixed fiber yarn and a high-shrinkage polyester FDY filament with a boiling water shrinkage rate of more than 20% are obtained through a network composite process to form a wool-like polyester composite filament. After alkali weight reduction and fiber opening and post-finishing, the sea-island fine denier filaments and the low-shrinkage filaments float on the surface of the filament bundle with fine curls, and the fabric made has a very good wool-like effect.

[0005] The above-mentioned inventions all have beneficial technical achievements in preparing textile materials with natural texture using sea-island type superfine fibers. However, there is still a technical gap in the research on preparing suede-like filament fabrics with delicate texture and soft luster by improving the curling characteristics of sea-island fibers themselves. The research and development of the technology of the present invention is beneficial to improving the high-grade quality of modern life and is of great significance to promoting the innovation and upgrading of textile materials. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies of the above-mentioned existing technologies and provide a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers and a preparation method thereof, so as to expand the application of sea-island fibers in fields such as fashionable home textiles, high-end clothing, and automotive interiors.

[0007] To achieve the above purpose, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0008] A preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers, using a double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber as the covering filament and a high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber as the core filament, preparing a differential-shrinkage DTY composite filament through a texturing process and a composite drawing and network process, and then using the differential-shrinkage DTY composite filament as the warp yarn and a conventional polyester filament as the weft yarn, weaving it into a fabric according to a five-harness satin weave and then subjecting it to refining, relaxation, alkali weight reduction, sanding, and setting treatments to obtain a suede-like filament fabric with soft luster, uniform color, and delicate texture.

[0009] The present invention is further configured such that the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber uses a high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester and a low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester as the double-island components and a water-soluble polyester as the sea component, and the mass ratio of the high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester island component, the low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester island component, and the water-soluble polyester sea component is 35-37:35-37:26-30; the double-island components are extruded side by side through the spinneret holes of the spinning pack in the same island component channel, and the cross-section of the double-island components is a circle composed of two semi-circles, and the sea component is extruded through the spinneret hole sea component channel of the spinning pack; the number of islands of the double-island components is 16-72 islands per single filament, and the island diameter is 0.21-0.98 um.

[0010] The present invention is further configured such that the linear density of the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber is 120-270 dtex / 24-48 f, the breaking strength is 1.5-2.5 cN / dtex, and the breaking elongation is 140-160%;

[0011] The high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber is a bright, semi-dull, or full-dull polyester filament with a linear density of 30-60 dtex / 12-24 f and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30-60%, and its cross-section is circular, triangular, or irregular;

[0012] The linear density of the differential-shrinkage DTY composite filament is 105-250 dtex / 36-72 f, the breaking strength ≥2.8 cN / dtex, the breaking elongation is 20-35%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate is 25-40%.

[0013] The present invention is further configured such that the raised thickness of the suede-like filament fabric is 0.18-0.20 mm, the soft touch feeling is 4.5-5 points, and the visual color difference is 4.5-5 points.

[0014] The present invention is further configured to specifically include the following steps:

[0015] (1) Vacuum dry the high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips, low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips, and water-soluble polyester chips respectively; then melt and mix the dried high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips with or without masterbatch through screw extruder A to make a high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester melt, melt and mix the dried low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester melt with or without masterbatch through screw extruder B to make a low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester melt, and melt the dried water-soluble polyester chips through screw extruder C to make a water-soluble polyester melt; then convey the three melts to the spinning box through their respective melt conveying pipelines, measure through high-precision metering pumps, filter and remove impurities from the melt, and then extrude and spin at the spinneret through a multi-layer melt distribution plate to obtain bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fibers;

[0016] (2) Feed the bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fibers through a zero roller, and then pass through the first roller, the first hot box, the cooling plate, the false twister, the second roller, and the second hot box and enter the networker; feed the high-shrinkage FDY polyester fibers through a negative zero roller, enter the guide wire tube and the guide wheel through the guide roller, and then input the fibers into the networker, and compound the fibers with the bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fibers input into the same networker through the network nozzle, and then through the transmission of the third roller, oiling, and winding treatment to obtain a differential shrinkage DTY composite filament;

[0017] (3) Use the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament as the warp yarn, use the conventional polyester filament as the weft yarn, weave according to the five-harness satin weave and use an air-jet loom, and then carry out flat continuous refining, hydrothermal relaxation, alkali weight reduction, sanding, shaping, and post-finishing treatment on the fabric to obtain a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers.

[0018] The present invention is further configured that in step (1), the high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips, low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips, and water-soluble polyester chips are all chemically recycled polyester chips. The intrinsic viscosity of the high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips is 0.8-1.2 dL / g, the intrinsic viscosity of the low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips is 0.5-0.8 dL / g, and the intrinsic viscosity of the water-soluble polyester chips is 0.5-0.7 dL / g;

[0019] The drying temperature of the high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips is 120 °C, and the drying time is 4 h; the drying temperature of the low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester chips is 100 °C, and the drying time is 6 h; the drying temperature of the water-soluble polyester chips is 85 °C, and the drying time is 8 h.

[0020] The present invention is further configured that in step (1), the melting temperature for preparing the high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester melt is 275-280°C, the melting temperature for preparing the low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester melt is 265-270°C, and the melting temperature for preparing the water-soluble polyester melt is 255-260°C; the temperature of the spinning box is 265-275°C, and the spinning speed is 2400-2600 m / min.

[0021] The present invention is further configured that in step (2), when texturing the bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber, zero roller and the first roller are adopted and differential drafting is realized by setting the drafting ratio less than the natural drawing ratio, and the drafting ratio is 1.45-1.65 times; the false twist ratio D / Y is 1.65-1.75; the temperature of the first hot box is 170-185°C, and the temperature of the second hot box is 125-140°C; the texturing speed of the fiber is 450-650 m / min; the aperture of the network nozzle of the networker is 1.6-2.4 mm, and the network air pressure is 2.8-3.6 MPa.

[0022] The present invention is further configured that in step (3), the linear density of both the warp yarn and the weft yarn is 105-250 dtex / 36-72 f; the warp density is 600-750 ends / 10 cm, and the weft density is 450-600 ends / 10 cm; the temperature of the flat continuous refining treatment is 80°C, and the temperature of the wet heat relaxation treatment is 85°C; the alkali weight reduction treatment process is as follows: using an 8 wt% NaOH solution as the alkali treatment liquid, first heating it at a rate of 2-3°C / min to 60°C and then holding for 5 minutes to make the fiber swell preliminarily, and then continuing to heat to 80-95°C and holding for 25-35 minutes to fully hydrolyze the sea-phase water-soluble polyester.

[0023] A suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers prepared according to the above method.

[0024] In summary, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0025] (1) In the present invention, the sea component COPET is a water-soluble polyester, which can be efficiently dissolved during the post-treatment process. At the same time, the sea component and the island component materials are regenerated into polyester chips by chemical methods, which conforms to the concept of sustainable development.

[0026] (2) In the present invention, high-intrinsic-viscosity polyester (HVPET) and low-intrinsic-viscosity polyester (LVPET) are used as the bi-island components, and the bi-island components are equally distributed in a single island phase. The difference in crystal orientation between the two components endows the sea-island monofilament with unique micro-crimp characteristics. This characteristic can effectively improve the visual color difference problem caused by the straight and oriented arrangement of the fluff in traditional suede-like materials, thereby further enhancing the high-end quality of the suede-like filament fabric.

[0027] (3) The present invention uses double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber and high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber as the covering yarn and the core yarn respectively to prepare a differential shrinkage DTY composite filament. The color of the double-island component can also be adjusted by adding masterbatch, endowing the suede-like filament fabric with a richer visual effect, which is of great significance for improving the quality of modern life and promoting the innovation and upgrading of the textile industry. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0028] Figure 1 It is a schematic cross-sectional view showing the configuration of the island part of the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber of the present invention (in the figure: 1 is the HVPET island part; 2 is the LVPET island part);

[0029] Figure 2 It is a schematic structural view of the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament of the present invention (in the figure: 3 is the covering yarn; 4 is the core yarn);

[0030] Figure 3 It is a product appearance view of the suede-like filament fabric prepared in Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 (in the figure: (a) represents Example 2, (b) represents Comparative Example 1); DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS

[0031] Next, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, rather than all the embodiments. All other embodiments obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art based on the embodiments of the present invention without creative efforts shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

[0032] The present invention uses double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber as the covering yarn and high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber as the core yarn to prepare a differential shrinkage DTY composite filament through a texturing process and a composite drawing and texturing process. Subsequently, the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament is used as the warp yarn, and a conventional polyester filament is used as the weft yarn. After weaving into a fabric according to a five-harness satin weave and then undergoing refining, relaxation, alkali weight reduction, sanding, and setting treatments, a suede-like filament fabric with soft luster, uniform color, and delicate texture is obtained.

[0033] Specifically, it includes the following steps:

[0034] S1. Preparation of double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber: It is prepared using high-intrinsic viscosity polyester (HVPET) and low-intrinsic viscosity polyester (LVPET) as the double-island components and water-soluble polyester (COPET) as the sea component.

[0035] The specific preparation process is as follows: High intrinsic viscosity polyester chips (chemically recycled polyester chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.8 - 1.2 dL / g) are dried in a vacuum oven at 120°C for 4 hours, low intrinsic viscosity polyester chips (chemically recycled polyester chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.5 - 0.8 dL / g) are dried in a vacuum oven at 100°C for 6 hours, and water-soluble polyester chips (chemically recycled polyester chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.5 - 0.7 dL / g) are dried in a vacuum oven at 85°C for 8 hours; Subsequently, the dried high intrinsic viscosity polyester chips are melted with or without masterbatch by screw extruder A (the melting temperature is 275 - 280°C) to form a high intrinsic viscosity polyester melt, the dried low intrinsic viscosity polyester melt is melted with or without masterbatch by screw extruder B (the melting temperature is 265 - 270°C) to form a low intrinsic viscosity polyester melt, and the dried water-soluble polyester chips are melted by screw extruder C (the melting temperature is 255 - 260°C) to form a water-soluble polyester melt; Then, the three melts are respectively transported through their respective melt conveying pipelines to a spinning box at 265 - 275°C, metered by a high-precision metering pump, filtered to remove impurities, and then extruded and spun at the spinneret through a multi-layer melt distribution plate (the bi-island component is extruded side by side through the spinneret holes of the spinning component in the same island component channel, the sea component is extruded through the spinneret holes of the sea component channel of the spinning component, the number of islands of the bi-island component is 16 - 72 islands per single filament, and the island diameter is 0.21 - 0.98 um, which can ensure the separability of the island component and the detachment efficiency of the sea component, and obtain sea-island superfine fibers with delicate touch, softness and fluffiness), the spinning speed is 2400 - 2600 m / min, and bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fibers are prepared (in this MOY fiber, the mass ratio of the high intrinsic viscosity polyester island component, the low intrinsic viscosity polyester island component and the water-soluble polyester sea component is 35 - 37:35 - 37:26 - 30; the linear density of the bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber is 120 - 270 dtex / 24 - 48f, the breaking strength is 1.5 - 2.5 cN / dtex, and the breaking elongation is 140 - 160%).

[0036] As Figure 1 shown, the cross-section of the bi-island component of the bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber is a circle composed of two semi-circles, and the two semi-circle components are the high intrinsic viscosity polyester island component (shown as 1 in the figure) and the low intrinsic viscosity polyester island component (shown as 2 in the figure).

[0037] S2. Prepare the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament through the composite draw-texturing process:

[0038] The double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber is fed in through a zero roller, and then passes through the first roller, the first hot box, the cooling plate, the false twister, the second roller and the second hot box in sequence and then enters the networker; the high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber (fiber linear density is 30-60 dtex / 12-24 f, boiling water shrinkage rate is 30-60%, is bright, semi-dull or full-dull polyester filament, and its cross-section is circular, triangular or special-shaped) is fed in through a negative zero roller, enters the wire guide tube and the wire guide wheel through the wire guide roller, and then the fiber is input into the networker, and the fiber is compounded with the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber input into the same networker through the network nozzle. The aperture of the network nozzle is 1.6-2.4 mm, the network air pressure is 2.8-3.6 MPa, and then through the transmission of the third roller, oiling and winding treatment (the speed of the third roller is 425-615 m / min, the oiling rate is 2.5-3.5%, and the winding speed is 420-610 m / min), the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament (linear density is 105-250 dtex / 36-72 f, breaking strength ≥2.8 cN / dtex, breaking elongation is 20-35%, and boiling water shrinkage rate is 25-40%) is obtained;

[0039] In this step, when processing the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber by texturing, differential drafting is realized by passing through the zero roller and the first roller and setting the drafting multiple less than the natural drafting multiple. The drafting multiple is 1.45-1.65 times; the false twister speed ratio D / Y is 1.65-1.75; the temperature of the first hot box is 170-185 °C, and the temperature of the second hot box is 125-140 °C; the fiber texturing speed is 450-650 m / min.

[0040] S3. Preparation of suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fiber:

[0041] Using the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament as the warp and the conventional polyester filament as the weft (the linear density of the warp and the weft is 105-250 dtex / 36-72 f), weaving is carried out according to the five-harness satin weave and using an air-jet loom with the warp density of 600-750 ends / 10 cm and the weft density of 450-600 picks / 10 cm; then the fabric is subjected to flat continuous scouring treatment at 80 °C and humid heat relaxation treatment at 85 °C; then using 8 wt% NaOH solution as the alkali treatment solution, first heating up to 60 °C at a rate of 2-3 °C / min and holding for 5 minutes to make the fiber swell initially, continuing to heat up to 80-95 °C and holding for 25-30 minutes to fully hydrolyze the sea-phase water-soluble polyester, and then through sanding, shaping and after-finishing treatment, the suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fiber is obtained (the fiber structure in the suede-like filament fabric is as Figure 2 shown), the raised hair thickness of the suede-like filament fabric is 0.18-0.20 mm, the soft touch feeling is 4.5-5 points, and the visual color difference is 4.5-5 points.

[0042] Examples 1 - 4

[0043] Prepare suede - like filament fabrics based on micro - crimped sea - island superfine fibers respectively according to the above - mentioned method (no color masterbatch is added when preparing double - island micro - crimped sea - island superfine MOY fibers). The process parameters during the preparation are shown in Tables 1 - 3:

[0044] Table 1 Process parameters for preparing double - island micro - crimped sea - island superfine MOY fibers

[0045]

[0046] Table 2 Process parameters for preparing differential - shrinkage DTY composite filaments

[0047]

[0048]

[0049] Table 3 Process parameters for preparing suede - like filament fabrics

[0050]

[0051] Test and evaluate the products prepared in Examples 1 - 4 respectively. The specific results are shown in Table 4.

[0052] The performance evaluation method for suede - like filament fabrics is as follows:

[0053] (a) Raised - pile thickness

[0054] According to the JIS L1096 - 2010 standard, measure the thickness at 10 random positions of the suede - like filament fabric and take the average value. A thickness above 0.16 mm is considered qualified.

[0055] (b) Soft touch feeling

[0056] Invite 10 experienced examiners in hand - feeling evaluation to conduct a relative evaluation on the soft touch feeling of the suede - like filament fabric. Take the average value of the scores of each examiner as the result. The scoring standard is: 5 points for excellent, 4 points for good, 3 points for ordinary, 2 points for poor, and 1 point for very poor.

[0057] (c) Visual color difference

[0058] Invite 10 experienced examiners in visual evaluation to conduct a relative evaluation on the visual color difference of the suede - like filament fabric. Take the average value of the scores of each examiner as the result. The scoring standard is: 5 points for excellent, 4 points for good, 3 points for ordinary, 2 points for poor, and 1 point for very poor.

[0059] Table 4 Performance indicators of suede - like filament fabrics

[0060]

[0061] As can be seen from Table 2, the suede-like filament fabrics prepared from bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers with different finenesses have delicate texture, soft luster and color uniformity. For the specific requirements of different application scenarios, more extensive applicability and functionality can be imparted to the fabrics through the structural performance design of bi-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers.

[0062] Comparative Example 1

[0063] Using HVPET as the single-island component and COPET as the sea component, conventional sea-island superfine fibers were prepared by a two-component melt compound spinning process. Among them, the intrinsic viscosity of HVPET was 1.15 dL / g, the intrinsic viscosity of COPET was 0.60 dL / g, the number of islands in the single-island component was 36 islands per single filament, the island diameter was 0.42 μm, and the weight compound ratio of HVPET and COPET was 70:30.

[0064] The spinning process of sea-island superfine MOY fibers was as follows: First, HVPET was dried in a vacuum oven at 120°C for 4 h, and COPET was dried in a vacuum oven at 85°C for 8 h; then the dried HVPET and COPET were fully melted in a screw extruder A at 280°C and a screw extruder C at 260°C respectively, and then the two melts were respectively transported through their respective melt conveying pipelines into a spinning box at 272°C, metered by a high-precision metering pump, filtered and decontaminated by the melt, and then extruded and spun at the spinneret through a melt distribution plate. The spinning speed was 2450 m / min, and finally sea-island superfine MOY fibers were obtained.

[0065] The preparation process of the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament was as follows: Using sea-island superfine MOY fibers as the covering filaments and semi-dull, round cross-section high-shrinkage FDY polyester fibers with a linear density of 30 dtex / 12f and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30% as the core filaments, the differential shrinkage DTY composite filaments were prepared according to the composite drawing and texturing process of Example 2. The specific process parameters were as follows: the draw ratio of sea-island superfine MOY fibers was 1.58 times, the false twist speed ratio D / Y was 1.68, the temperature of the first hot box was 180°C, the temperature of the second hot box was 138°C, the texturing speed was 500 m / min; the aperture of the network nozzle was 2.0 mm, the network air pressure was 3.2 MPa; the speed of the third roller was 470 m / min, the oiling rate was 3.23%, and the winding speed was 465 m / min.

[0066] Subsequently, using the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament as the warp yarn and the conventional polyester filament as the weft yarn, weaving is carried out according to the five - harness satin weave using an air - jet loom with the warp density of 650 ends / 10 cm and the weft density of 450 picks / 10 cm. Subsequently, the fabric is subjected to processes such as scouring, relaxation, alkali - weight reduction, sanding, and setting to obtain a conventional suede - like filament fabric. The specific process parameters are the same as those in Example 2.

[0067] The difference between this Comparative Example 1 and Example 2 is actually that the LVPET island component of the double - island micro - crimped sea - island superfine MOY fiber in Example 2 is also changed to the HVPET island component, forming a single - sea - island superfine MOY fiber. After measurement, the linear density of the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament prepared in this comparative example is 101.5 dtex / 36 f, the breaking strength is 3.4 cN / dtex, the breaking elongation is 21.8%, the boiling water shrinkage rate is 26.4%, the fuzzing thickness of the suede - like filament fabric is 0.16 mm, the soft touch feeling score is 4.2 points, and the visual color difference score is 3.8 points.

[0068] Comparative Example 2

[0069] Using LVPET as the single - island component and COPET as the sea component, conventional sea - island superfine fibers are prepared by a two - component melt - compound spinning process. Among them, the intrinsic viscosity of LVPET is 0.75 dL / g, the intrinsic viscosity of COPET is 0.60 dL / g, the number of islands of the single - island component is 36 islands per single filament, the island diameter is 0.42 μm, and the weight compound ratio of LVPET and COPET is 70:30.

[0070] The spinning process of the MOY fiber is as follows: First, LVPET is dried in a vacuum oven at 100 °C for 6 h, and COPET is dried in a vacuum oven at 85 °C for 8 h. Subsequently, the LVPET and COPET with the required moisture content are fully melted in a screw extruder A at 270 °C and a screw extruder C at 260 °C respectively, and then enter the spinning box at 272 °C through their respective melt conveying pipelines. After metering by a high - precision metering pump, filtering and removing impurities from the melt, and then extruding and spinning at the spinneret through a melt distribution plate, the spinning speed is 2450 m / min, and finally, sea - island superfine MOY fibers are obtained.

[0071] The preparation process for the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament is as follows: using island-in-the-sea ultrafine MOY fiber as the covering yarn and semi-dull, circular cross-section high shrinkage FDY polyester fiber with a linear density of 30 dtex / 12f and a boiling water shrinkage of 30% as the core yarn, and obtaining the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament according to the composite drafting and interlacing process of Example 2. Specific process parameters are: draw ratio of the island-in-the-sea ultrafine MOY fiber of 1.58, false twister speed ratio D / Y of 1.68, first hot box temperature of 180°C, second hot box temperature of 138°C, texturing speed of 500 m / min; interlacing nozzle aperture of 2.0 mm, interlacing air pressure of 3.2 MPa; third roller speed of 470 m / min, oil application rate of 3.21%, and winding speed of 465 m / min.

[0072] Subsequently, a five-weave satin weave was woven using the differential shrinkage DTY composite filaments as the warp and conventional polyester filaments as the weft using an air jet loom with a warp density of 650 yarns / 10 cm and a weft density of 450 yarns / 10 cm. The fabric was then subjected to scouring, relaxation, alkali reduction, sanding, and shaping to obtain a conventional suede-like filament fabric. The specific process parameters were the same as in Example 2.

[0073] Comparative Example 2 differs from Example 2 in that the HVPET island component of the double-island micro-crimped island-in-the-sea ultrafine MOY fiber in Example 2 is replaced with an LVPET island component, forming a single-island-in-the-sea ultrafine MOY fiber. The differential shrinkage DTY composite filament prepared in this comparative example exhibited a linear density of 100.8 dtex / 36f, a breaking strength of 3.1 cN / dtex, an elongation at break of 25.1%, a boiling water shrinkage of 27.2%, a raised thickness of 0.17 mm, a soft touch rating of 4.4, and a visual color difference of 4.0.

[0074] Compared with Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, the island-in-the-sea microfiber prepared with low intrinsic viscosity polyester as the island component exhibits better softness and drape, so the prepared suede-like fabric has a higher nap thickness, better soft touch, and smaller visual color difference. However, compared with the examples, the suede-like fabrics prepared in the two comparative examples have a "writing effect" on the surface of the fabric due to the different directions of the nap prostration, so there is still a significant gap in the optimization of visual color difference. The appearance of the suede-like filament fabrics prepared in Comparative Example 1 and Example 2 (after dyeing using the same method) is as follows: Figure 3 shown. Figure 3 (a) is a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-curled sea-island microfibers prepared in Example 2. The surface of the fabric has soft, randomly and evenly arranged piles. The diffuse reflection effect of light on the fabric gives it excellent color uniformity and a highly bionic texture.

[0075] Example 5

[0076] Prepare a double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber with a single fiber presenting a red / white bicolor effect according to step S1 of the present invention (that is, melt-mix the dried high-intrinsic viscosity polyester chips and titanium white masterbatch in a mass ratio of 97:3, melt-mix the dried low-intrinsic viscosity polyester chips and iron oxide red masterbatch in a mass ratio of 98:2, melt the water-soluble polyester chips, and then spin them into fibers), and then prepare according to step S2 and step S3 to obtain a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers with a unique color mixing effect, which can significantly enhance the visual hierarchy and design diversity of the suede-like filament fabric, and is applicable to the fields of high-end fashion home textiles and automotive interiors.

[0077] The above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments. All technical solutions falling within the idea of the present invention belong to the protection scope of the present invention. It should be noted that for those of ordinary skill in the art, several improvements and refinements made without departing from the principle of the present invention should also be regarded as within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers, characterized in that, Using double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber as the covering yarn and high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber as the core yarn, an isotropic-shrinkage DTY composite filament is prepared through a texturing process and a composite drawing and texturing process. Subsequently, using the isotropic-shrinkage DTY composite filament as the warp yarn and a conventional polyester filament as the weft yarn, a fabric is woven in a five-harness satin weave and then subjected to refining, relaxation, alkali deweighting, sanding, and setting treatments to obtain a suede-like filament fabric with a soft luster, uniform color, and delicate texture.

2. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that, The double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber uses high-intrinsic viscosity polyester and low-intrinsic viscosity polyester as the double-island components and water-soluble polyester as the sea component. The mass ratio of the high-intrinsic viscosity polyester island component, low-intrinsic viscosity polyester island component, and water-soluble polyester sea component is 35-37:35-37:26-30; the double-island components are extruded side by side through the spinneret holes of the same island component channels of the spinning pack. The cross-section of the double-island components is a circle composed of two semi-circles, and the sea component is extruded through the sea component channels of the spinneret holes of the spinning pack; the number of islands in the double-island components is 16-72 islands per single filament, and the island diameter is 0.21-0.98 um.

3. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that, The linear density of the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber is 120-270 dtex / 24-48 f, the breaking strength is 1.5-2.5 cN / dtex, and the breaking elongation is 140-160%; The high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber is a bright, semi-dull, or full-dull polyester filament with a linear density of 30-60 dtex / 12-24 f and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30-60%. Its cross-section is circular, triangular, or irregular; The linear density of the isotropic-shrinkage DTY composite filament is 105-250 dtex / 36-72 f, the breaking strength ≥2.8 cN / dtex, the breaking elongation is 20-35%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate is 25-40%.

4. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that, The raised thickness of the suede-like filament fabric is 0.18-0.20 mm, the soft touch feeling is 4.5-5 points, and the visual color difference is 4.5-5 points.

5. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that, Including the following steps: (1) Vacuum-dry the high-intrinsic viscosity polyester chips, low-intrinsic viscosity polyester chips, and water-soluble polyester chips respectively; Then, melt the dried high-intrinsic viscosity polyester chips with or without color masterbatch through screw extruder A to make a high-intrinsic viscosity polyester melt, melt the dried low-intrinsic viscosity polyester chips with or without color masterbatch through screw extruder B to make a low-intrinsic viscosity polyester melt, and melt the dried water-soluble polyester chips through screw extruder C to make a water-soluble polyester melt; then, respectively transport the three melts to the spinning box through their respective melt conveying pipelines, meter them through high-precision metering pumps, filter and remove impurities from the melts, and then extrude and spin them at the spinneret through a multi-layer melt distribution plate to obtain double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber; (2) Feed the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber through a zero roller, and successively pass through the first roller, the first hot box, the cooling plate, the false twister, the second roller and the second hot box and then enter the networker; feed the high-shrinkage FDY polyester fiber through a negative zero roller, enter the wire guide tube and the wire guide wheel through the wire guide roller and then input the fiber into the networker, and compound the fiber with the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber input into the same networker through the network nozzle, and then carry out drafting, oiling and winding treatments through the third roller to obtain a differential shrinkage DTY composite filament; (3) Use the differential shrinkage DTY composite filament as the warp yarn and the conventional polyester filament as the weft yarn, weave according to the five-harness satin weave and use an air-jet loom, and then carry out flat continuous refining, hydrothermal relaxation, alkali weight reduction, sanding, shaping and after-finishing treatments on the fabric to obtain a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers.

6. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 5, characterized in that, In step (1), the high-intrinsic viscosity polyester chip, the low-intrinsic viscosity polyester chip and the water-soluble polyester chip are all chemically recycled polyester chips. The intrinsic viscosity of the high-intrinsic viscosity polyester chip is 0.8 - 1.2 dL / g, the intrinsic viscosity of the low-intrinsic viscosity polyester chip is 0.5 - 0.8 dL / g, and the intrinsic viscosity of the water-soluble polyester chip is 0.5 - 0.7 dL / g; The drying temperature of the high-intrinsic viscosity polyester chip is 120 °C and the drying time is 4 h; the drying temperature of the low-intrinsic viscosity polyester chip is 100 °C and the drying time is 6 h; the drying temperature of the water-soluble polyester chip is 85 °C and the drying time is 8 h.

7. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 5, characterized in that, In step (1), the melting temperature for preparing the high-intrinsic viscosity polyester melt is 275 - 280 °C, the melting temperature for preparing the low-intrinsic viscosity polyester melt is 265 - 270 °C, and the melting temperature for preparing the water-soluble polyester melt is 255 - 260 °C; the temperature of the spinning box is 265 - 275 °C and the spinning speed is 2400 - 2600 m / min.

8. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 5, characterized in that, In step (2), when carrying out texturing treatment on the double-island micro-crimped sea-island superfine MOY fiber, carry out differential drafting through the zero roller and the first roller and by setting the drafting multiple less than the natural drawing multiple, and the drafting multiple is 1.45 - 1.65 times; the false twister speed ratio D / Y is 1.65 - 1.75; the temperature of the first hot box is 170 - 185 °C, and the temperature of the second hot box is 125 - 140 °C; the texturing speed of the fiber is 450 - 650 m / min; the aperture of the network nozzle of the networker is 1.6 - 2.4 mm and the network air pressure is 2.8 - 3.6 MPa.

9. The preparation method of a suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers according to claim 5, characterized in that, In step (3), the linear density of both the warp yarn and the weft yarn is 105 - 250 dtex / 36 - 72 f; the warp density is 600 - 750 ends / 10 cm, and the weft density is 450 - 600 ends / 10 cm; the temperature of the flat continuous refining treatment is 80 °C, and the temperature of the hydrothermal relaxation treatment is 85 °C; the alkali weight reduction treatment process is: using an 8 wt% NaOH solution as the alkali treatment solution, first raise the temperature to 60 °C at a rate of 2 - 3 °C / min and then keep it warm for 5 minutes to make the fiber swell preliminarily, and continue to raise the temperature to 80 - 95 °C and keep it warm for 25 - 35 minutes to fully hydrolyze the sea-phase water-soluble polyester.

10. A suede-like filament fabric based on micro-crimped sea-island superfine fibers prepared by the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

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