Polyester cotton weaving-imitating style knitted fabric and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses a polyester-cotton woven-imitating-style knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof. The fabric is formed by weaving a ground yarn system and an elastic yarn system. The ground yarn system is blended yarn of polyester and cotton; the elastic yarn system is spandex wrap yarn or polyester elastic yarn, and the content of the elastic yarn system accounts for 2-5% of the total weight of the fabric; the fabric is compounded with plain stitches through tucking, floating thread or double warp stitches to form a weaving-imitating effect layer; the longitudinal and transverse shrinkage rate of the fabric is controlled within + / -3% through an after-finishing process including pre-shaping, dyeing and resin finishing. The fabric has the appearance style and size stability of woven fabric and the comfort and elasticity of knitted fabric, solves the technical problem that the woven fabric and the knitted fabric are difficult to be compatible, and is suitable for the fields of high-grade shirts, suits, casual coats and the like.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of textiles, more particularly to a polyester-cotton blended fabric with both the appearance style and the comfortable elasticity of woven fabric and a preparation method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] In current garment fabrics, woven fabrics (such as shirt and suit fabrics) are favored due to their stable structure, smooth surface and clear texture, but they usually lack elasticity, which limits the comfort and freedom of movement. Although knitted fabrics are good in elasticity and comfortable and soft, the inherent loop structure leads to a significant difference in fabric style from woven fabrics, which appears not enough to be crisp and formal.

[0003] To solve this problem, "imitation woven" knitted fabrics appear in the prior art, which mainly simulate the woven effect by using special yarns (such as fancy yarns) or complex weave patterns. However, these methods often have the following defects: the addition of elastic fibers such as spandex can improve elasticity, but it is easy to destroy the flatness and stiffness of the imitation woven effect, and the shrinkage of elastic fibers in the finishing process also affects the dimensional stability; in order to achieve the imitation effect, high-count yarns or complex jacquard devices are needed, which increases the production cost and technical difficulty; the imitation woven effect is easy to be lost due to improper tension and temperature in the finishing process, and the shrinkage and weight of the fabric are difficult to control.

[0004] Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a new type of fabric and its preparation method which can not only achieve a high imitation woven appearance, but also have moderate elasticity, dimensional stability and controllable cost. SUMMARY

[0005] The present application provides a polyester-cotton imitation woven style knitted fabric and a preparation method thereof. The fabric is highly similar to woven fabric in appearance, crisp and flat, while containing comfortable elasticity inside, and is also dimensional stable and wrinkle resistant.

[0006] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present application adopts the following technical solutions: A polyester-cotton imitation woven style knitted fabric, comprising: a polyester-cotton blended yarn formed by blending polyester fibers and cotton fibers as a ground yarn system; an elastic yarn system composed of spandex covered yarn or polyester elastic filament; The content of the elastic yarn system accounts for 2% to 5% of the total weight of the fabric; The fabric adopts a knitted knitting structure and at least includes an imitation woven effect layer, which is formed by at least one of tuck stitch, float stitch or over-end stitch combined with plain stitch to simulate the texture of woven fabric on the surface of the fabric; After finishing, the longitudinal and transverse shrinkage rates of the fabric are both controlled within ±3%.

[0007] Further, the proportion of polyester fibers in the polyester-cotton blended yarn is 65-80%, and the proportion of cotton fibers is 20-35%.

[0008] Further, the elastic yarn system is spandex covered yarn, and the outer covering fiber is cotton, polyester or polyester-cotton blended yarn.

[0009] Further, the elastic yarn system is polyester elastic yarn, which is PTT / PET composite fiber, PBT fiber or elastic polyester fiber with three-dimensional crimp structure.

[0010] Further, the simulated texture of the simulated woven effect layer is one of twill, satin, check or bird's eye.

[0011] Further, the fabric is a double-sided knitted structure, one side of which is the simulated woven effect layer, and the other side of which is a comfortable layer composed of plain stitch, rib stitch or pearl stitch.

[0012] A method for preparing the above-mentioned polyester-cotton simulated woven style knitted fabric, comprising the following steps: S1: raw material preparation: providing the ground yarn system and the elastic yarn system; S2: knitting: using a computerized flat knitting machine or a warp knitting machine, the feeding mode of the ground yarn system and the elastic yarn system is controlled by programming, so that the elastic yarn system is embedded in the ground yarn system in a cushioning, plating or needle inserting manner, and a gray fabric with a simulated woven effect layer is knitted; S3: post-finishing: the gray fabric is sequentially subjected to pre-setting, dyeing, resin finishing and final setting.

[0013] Further, the conditions of the pre-setting process in step S3 are: temperature 185-195℃, time 30-60 seconds, and overfeed 5%-10%.

[0014] Further, the resin finishing in step S3 is 2D resin finishing or liquid ammonia finishing, and hydrophilic soft oil and / or antistatic agent is added in the final setting process.

[0015] Further, in step S2, the yarn tension of the knitting machine is controlled to be 3-6cN, the workshop environment temperature is controlled to be 23-27℃, and the humidity is controlled to be 60-70%.

[0016] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following beneficial effects: 1. Strong appearance simulation: by combining float stitch, tuck stitch and the like with plain stitch, continuous simulated woven texture is formed on the surface of the fabric, and the natural texture of cotton fibers is used to simulate the texture of traditional woven fabrics, successfully realizing high simulation of woven fabrics in appearance on the knitted fabric; 2. Good comfort and elasticity: By precisely controlling the elastic fiber content at 2-5% and embedding it in the ground yarn system in a cladding or cushioning manner, the comfort and elasticity in both directions are provided while avoiding the destruction of the imitation woven crisp style by high content of elastic fiber, perfectly balancing the wearing comfort and appearance style; 3. Excellent dimensional stability: Using 185-195℃ high temperature pre-setting process, combined with 5-10% overfeed, the internal stress of elastic fiber is pre-eliminated, the loop structure is permanently stabilized, and combined with 2D resin or liquid ammonia finishing, the longitudinal and transverse shrinkage rate of the fabric is controlled within ±3%, the dimensional stability is excellent, solving the industry pain point of easy deformation of elastic knitted fabric; 4. Controllable production cost: Using conventional polyester-cotton blended yarn as main raw material, only a small amount of elastic fiber is added, high performance is realized through process innovation, the shape retention of polyester and the comfort of cotton are maintained, and additional functions such as wrinkle resistance and softness are given to the fabric through special finishing process, the cost is controllable, and it is easy to mass produce and promote. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0017] Figure 1 The process flow diagram of the fabric preparation method of the application is shown. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0018] The specific embodiment of the polyester-cotton imitation woven style knitted fabric and its preparation method is further described in detail below.

[0019] Example 1: Imitation woven twill shirt fabric, simulating the effect of woven twill through floating line organization.

[0020] 1. Raw materials: Ground yarn: 80% polyester / 20% cotton 50-spun blended yarn; Elastic yarn: 40D spandex cotton cladding yarn, content 3.5%.

[0021] 2. Knitting process: Equipment: 28 needles / inch single-sided computerized circular knitting machine (equipped with four-color thread adjusting device).

[0022] Needle arrangement: all needles work normally.

[0023] Course arrangement and organization design (take 48 courses as an example): 1-12 courses: feed the original color ground yarn, all needles normally form loops, forming a flat base fabric.

[0024] 13-24: feed black ground yarn and elastic covering yarn. The black ground yarn here is knitted according to the rule of "float 4 stitches every 4 stitches". Specifically, on the 1st, 5th, 9th... stitches, loops are formed, and on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 7th, 8th... stitches, floats are formed (not knitted), and the floats span 4 longitudinal rows. In this way, continuous black diagonal stripe patterns are formed on the fabric surface. The elastic covering yarn is covered and knitted by the black ground yarn in all 12 rows in a way of adding yarn, providing horizontal elasticity.

[0025] 25-36: repeat 1-12, feed natural ground yarn, normally form loops.

[0026] 37-48: repeat 13-24, but the float position is offset by 2 stitches, forming staggered diagonal lines, making the texture more rich.

[0027] Machine parameters: the yarn tension is uniformly controlled at 4.5 cN; the workshop temperature is 25°C, and the humidity is 65%.

[0028] 3. Finishing process: Pre-setting: the gray fabric is set at 192°C with 8% overfeed for 45 seconds. This step completely eliminates the shrinkage internal stress of spandex and stabilizes the structure of the gray fabric, which is the key to controlling the final shrinkage rate.

[0029] Dyeing: one-bath dyeing (disperse / active dyes) is adopted, and the process is well known to those skilled in the art.

[0030] Resin finishing: super-low formaldehyde 2D resin is used for finishing, and the baking condition is 150°C x 2.5 minutes, which gives the fabric lasting wrinkle resistance and stiffness.

[0031] Final setting: carried out at 175°C for 30 seconds, with the addition of hydrophilic soft oil, to improve the hand feeling.

[0032] 4. Effects and properties: The obtained fabric has clear and uniform imitation woven diagonal stripe effect on the surface, and the appearance is not different from that of woven diagonal stripe fabric. The fabric has a crisp hand feeling and elasticity. The test shows that the longitudinal shrinkage rate is -2.0%, the transverse shrinkage rate is +1.8%, which is much better than the national standard (±5%), and the dimensional stability is excellent, and the elastic recovery rate is >90%.

[0033] Example 2: imitation woven square leisure fabric, simulating the woven square particle feeling by tuck stitches.

[0034] 1. Raw materials: Ground yarn: 32-spun blended yarn (two colors) of 65% polyester / 35% cotton; Elastic yarn: 75D PTT / PET elastic filament, content 4.2%.

[0035] 2. Knitting process: Machine: 18 needles / inch double computer circular knitting machine.

[0036] Tissue structure design: Double jacquard and tuck organization is used.

[0037] Through computer programming, control the navy blue and white ground yarn to change color knitting, form 2cm x 2cm check pattern on the front of the fabric.

[0038] In the check unit, control part of the knitting needle to tuck knitting (for example, every 3 needles tuck 1 needle), form a texture similar to woven fabric grit, enhance the visual effect of simulation.

[0039] Elastic yarn (polyester elastic yarn) is evenly knitted in the back of the fabric in the form of a cushion, effectively clamped by the ground yarn loop, neither exposed on the front to affect the appearance, nor provide good longitudinal and lateral elasticity for the fabric.

[0040] Machine parameters: yarn tension 5cN.

[0041] 3. Finishing process: Pre-setting: 188℃, 7% overfeed, 50 seconds.

[0042] Dyeing: two-bath dyeing method is used, first dye the polyester component, then dye the cotton component, good color fastness.

[0043] Biological enzyme polishing treatment: cellulase is used to polish the cotton component, remove surface hair, make the fabric surface smoother and the check pattern clearer.

[0044] Final setting: 170℃, 40 seconds, add soft oil.

[0045] 4. Effect and performance: The resulting fabric is double-sided, with a particle-sensing imitation woven check effect on the front and a smooth and comfortable back. The fabric weighs about 260g / m², thick and has a bone-like feeling. Its longitudinal / lateral shrinkage is within ±2.5%, with moderate elasticity, making it very suitable for making casual pants, short coats, etc.

[0046] Example 3: Imitation woven plain base fabric, achieve the ultimate flatness through warp knitting process.

[0047] 1. Raw materials: Ground yarn: 100D polyester filament and 40 English 70 / 30 polyester cotton yarn; Elastic yarn: 30D spandex, content 2.0%.

[0048] 2. Knitting process: Machine: E28 tricot warp knitting machine.

[0049] Tissue structure design: Polyester filament and polyester cotton yarn are knitted with plain weave (1-0 / 1-2) to form a very stable and flat base fabric.

[0050] Spandex warp yarn is full of another guide bar, and the same plain weave is knitted, but the organization is slightly changed to 1-0 / 2-3, so that it is uniformly embedded in the organization, and primarily provides longitudinal elasticity.

[0051] The warp knitting structure itself has no hemming property, and the flatness of the fabric is very high, which fundamentally imitates the basic style of woven fabric.

[0052] 3. Finishing process: Pre-shaping: 195℃, overfeed 5%, 35 seconds.

[0053] Dyeing: disperse / active dye one-bath dyeing.

[0054] Liquid ammonia finishing: liquid ammonia treatment is carried out on the fabric to make the fiber swell, completely eliminate internal stress, obtain extremely stable size and unique silky and drooping hand feeling, which is a key step to realize high-end imitation woven effect.

[0055] Final setting: 160℃, 30 seconds.

[0056] Effect and performance: The obtained fabric has a clean and flat surface, excellent flatness, no any knitted loop feeling, appearance and appearance of woven plain cloth are no different. The hand feeling is smooth and soft, and the vertical / horizontal shrinkage rate is less than ±1.5%, and the size stability reaches the extreme. It is suitable for high-end uniform, dress and other fields with high flatness requirement.

[0057] The above examples show that the polyester cotton fabric with imitation woven appearance, comfortable elasticity and excellent stability is prepared by specific raw material ratio, knitting organization and finishing process.

[0058] The above is only the preferred embodiment of the present application, and the protection scope of the present application is not limited to the above examples. Any technical solution belonging to the idea of the present application shall belong to the protection scope of the present application. It should be pointed out that for ordinary skilled persons in the technical field, some improvements and decorations without departing from the principle of the present application shall be considered as the protection scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A polyester-cotton imitated woven style knitted fabric, characterized in that, The invention relates to a knitted fabric with a simulated woven effect, comprising: a ground yarn system formed by blending polyester fibers and cotton fibers; an elastic yarn system formed by spandex covered yarn or polyester elastic yarn; the content of the elastic yarn system accounts for 2% to 5% of the total weight of the fabric; the fabric adopts a knitted structure and comprises at least one simulated woven effect layer formed by at least one of tuck stitch, float stitch or over-end stitch combined with plain stitch to simulate the texture of woven fabric on the surface of the fabric; the longitudinal and transverse shrinkage of the fabric after finishing is controlled within ±3%.

2. The polyester cotton blended mock- woven style knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the polyester-cotton blended yarn, the proportion of polyester fibers is 65-80%, and the proportion of cotton fibers is 20-35%.

3. The polyester cotton blended mock- woven style knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The elastic yarn system is spandex covered yarn, and the outer covering fiber is cotton, polyester or polyester-cotton blended yarn.

4. The polyester cotton blended mock- woven style knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The elastic yarn system is polyester elastic yarn, which is PTT / PET composite fiber, PBT fiber or elastic polyester fiber with three-dimensional crimp structure.

5. The polyester cotton blended mock- woven style knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The simulated texture of the simulated woven effect layer is one of twill, satin, check or bird eye pattern.

6. The polyester cotton blended mock- woven style knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: The fabric is double-sided knitted structure, one side is the simulated woven effect layer, and the other side is a comfortable layer formed by plain stitch, rib stitch or pearl stitch.

7. A method of making the polyester-cotton blended mock-woven style knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that, The invention further relates to a method for manufacturing the knitted fabric with a simulated woven effect, comprising the following steps: S1: raw material preparation: providing the ground yarn system and the elastic yarn system; S2: knitting: using computerized flat knitting machine or warp knitting machine, controlling the yarn feeding mode of the ground yarn system and the elastic yarn system by programming, so that the elastic yarn system is embedded in the ground yarn system in the form of cushion, plating or needle insertion, and a fabric with a simulated woven effect layer is knitted; S3: finishing: the fabric is sequentially subjected to pre-setting, dyeing, resin finishing and final setting.

8. The method of claim 7, wherein, In step S3, the pre-setting process is carried out at a temperature of 185-195℃ for 30-60 seconds with an overfeed of 5%-10%.

9. The method of claim 7, wherein: In step S3, the resin finishing is 2D resin finishing or liquid ammonia finishing, and hydrophilic soft oil and / or antistatic agent are added in the final setting process.

10. The method of claim 7, wherein: In step S2, the yarn tension of the knitting machine is controlled at 3-6cN, the workshop environment temperature is controlled at 23-27℃, and the humidity is controlled at 60-70%.

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