A composition, use and cosmetic having improved skin efficacy

Abstract

The application belongs to the field of new daily chemical materials, and discloses a composition with skin efficacy improving function, application and cosmetic, the composition comprising acetyl hydroxyproline and white nymphaea alba extract; in addition, the application also discloses a whitening composition comprising ergothioneine, superoxide dismutase, acetyl hydroxyproline, white nymphaea alba extract and malt extract. The whitening composition realizes the whitening performance through double anti-glycation, double anti-oxidation, inhibition of the pathways of melanin and tyrosinase, and the composition also has potential anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the field of biology, in particular to a composition with improved skin efficacy, application and cosmetics. BACKGROUND

[0002] The patent application with the subject of a composition with anti-glycation and anti-oxidation and its application, with the publication number CN110585048A, discloses the use of glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, nicotinamide, Bright Oléoactif® organic whitening extract, hydrolyzed conchiolin, plant extract to improve cell anti-glycation performance.

[0003] The effect of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) on the skin mainly lies in that it can cause skin aging and dull complexion, and there is a direct correlation between anti-glycation and the anti-wrinkle, firming and whitening performance of the product; in the continuous research on several raw materials for cosmetics, the present applicant has screened some new raw materials which exhibit excellent anti-glycation effect. Based on this, the present application is proposed. SUMMARY

[0004] The purpose of the present application is to provide a composition with improved skin efficacy, which uses acetyl hydroxyproline and white calla lily extract as the main active ingredients, and has good anti-glycation effect.

[0005] At the same time, the present application also discloses a whitening composition which has double anti-oxidation and double anti-oxidation performance, and the composition also has potential anti-wrinkle and firming efficacy.

[0006] At the same time, the present application also discloses the application and cosmetics of the composition.

[0007] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present application discloses:

[0008] A composition with improved skin efficacy, comprising acetyl hydroxyproline and white calla lily extract, and the weight ratio of the acetyl hydroxyproline and white calla lily extract is 0.01-2:0.1-5.

[0009] In the present application, acetyl hydroxyproline and white calla lily extract constitute a double anti-glycation combination, wherein acetyl hydroxyproline: inhibits glycation reaction from the source, reduces the formation of AGEs, and accurately attacks the initial stage of glycation; white calla lily extract: activates the skin whitening pathway, accelerates the metabolism and clearance of AGES, reduces structural collapse, and improves yellowish sedimentation; the experiments of the present application further verify that the two have significant synergy in anti-glycation.

[0010] In the composition for improving skin function mentioned above, the weight ratio of acetyl-hydroxyproline and white water lily extract is 0.01-1:0.1-3.

[0011] Meanwhile, the present application also discloses a whitening composition comprising ergothioneine, superoxide dismutase, acetyl-hydroxyproline, white water lily extract, malt extract;

[0012] The weight ratio of ergothioneine, superoxide dismutase, acetyl-hydroxyproline, white water lily extract and malt extract is 0.0001-0.5:0.001-1:0.01-2:0.1-5:0.01-5.

[0013] The composition of the present application is generally divided into two categories: whitening component and double-antioxidant component.

[0014] The whitening component is malt extract.

[0015] The double-antioxidant component of the present application is composed of ergothioneine, superoxide dismutase, acetyl-hydroxyproline and white water lily extract, wherein ergothioneine and superoxide dismutase exist as a double-antioxidant composition; acetyl-hydroxyproline and white water lily extract exist as a double-antioxidant composition.

[0016] More specifically, ergothioneine can effectively scavenge ROS, stabilize the cell microenvironment and prevent the initiation of oxidative chain reactions; superoxide dismutase can enhance the endogenous antioxidant capacity of cells and strengthen the skin's own defense system.

[0017] The present application realizes whitening by combining anti-glycation, tyrosinase inhibition and melanin inhibition.

[0018] In the whitening composition mentioned above, the weight ratio of ergothioneine, superoxide dismutase, acetyl-hydroxyproline, white water lily extract and malt extract is 0.0001-0.5:0.001-1:0.01-1:0.1-3:0.01-3.

[0019] In the whitening composition mentioned above, it also comprises a mitochondrial energy improvement composition and / or nicotinamide; the mitochondrial energy improvement composition is composed of sunflower bud extract, melissa extract, epigallocatechin gallate, edelweiss callus extract, polygala root extract and saponaria officinalis extract.

[0020] The weight ratio of sunflower bud extract, melissa extract, epigallocatechin gallate, edelweiss callus extract, polygala root extract and saponaria officinalis extract in the mitochondrial energy improvement composition is 0.0005-1:0.0005-1:0.0005-1:0.001-1:0.001-1:0.001-1.

[0021] Preferably, the weight ratio of the nicotinamide and the malt extract is 0.05-0.5:0.01-3, more preferably, the weight ratio of the nicotinamide and the malt extract is 0.05-0.5:0.1-3.

[0022] The weight ratio of the mitochondrial energy improving composition and the malt extract is 0.01-0.1:1, more preferably, the weight ratio of the mitochondrial energy improving composition and the malt extract is 0.01-0.05:1; the weight ratio of the mitochondrial energy improving composition and the malt extract is 0.025:1.

[0023] In addition, the present application also discloses the use of the composition with improved skin efficacy as described above, or the use of the whitening composition as described above for preparing a cosmetic.

[0024] Finally, the present application discloses a cosmetic containing the composition with improved skin efficacy as described above, or the whitening composition as described above.

[0025] In the above cosmetic, the concentration of the whitening composition is 0.0001-20wt%.

[0026] In the above cosmetic, the concentration of the whitening composition is 0.001-10wt%; more preferably, the concentration of the whitening composition is 1-5wt%.

[0027] The present application has at least the following beneficial effects:

[0028] 1. The present application has been verified by anti-glycation experiment, tyrosinase inhibition experiment and B16 cell melanin inhibition experiment to have good anti-glycation effect and whitening effect; at the same time, the present application also has potential anti-wrinkle and firming effect;

[0029] 2. The present application proves by experiment that the double-antagonistic composition can realize synergistic effect in the presence of malt extract, mitochondrial energy improving composition and nicotinamide. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0030] The present application will be described clearly and completely in combination with the embodiments of the present application, and in the description of the present application, it should be noted that the specific conditions not noted in the embodiments are carried out according to the conventional conditions or the conditions suggested by the manufacturers. The reagents or instruments not noted by the manufacturers are all conventional products which can be obtained by market purchase. In the absence of special instructions, the parts used in the embodiments of the present application are all weight parts.

[0031] I. Raw material source description

[0032] Vitamin E powder: supplier is Zhejiang Huaru Biological Technology Co., Ltd.; effective ingredient content is 95-100wt%;

[0033] Superoxide dismutase powder: supplier is Shenzhen Zhongkeyixian Biological Technology Co., Ltd.; effective ingredient content is 0.5-5wt%;

[0034] Acetyl hydroxyproline powder: supplier is Shenzhen Ruide Lin Biological Technology Co., Ltd.; effective ingredient content is 95-100wt%;

[0035] White lotus extract solution: supplier is Draco Natural Products, Inc.; effective ingredient content is 10-30wt%;

[0036] Malt extract solution: supplier is RAHN AG; effective ingredient content is 1-10wt%;

[0037] Nicotinamide powder: Jiangxi Haiwen Biological Technology Group Co., Ltd.; effective ingredient content is 95-100wt%;

[0038] Actual procurement will have different manufacturers, and the content will have slight fluctuations.

[0039] Mitochondrial energy improvement composition: prepared by the applicant, trade name is PCTs, and the specific preparation process is referred to CN119818418B.

[0040] II. Examples and Comparative Examples

[0041] The preparation method of each case is as follows: vitamin E powder, superoxide dismutase powder, acetyl hydroxyproline powder, white lotus extract solution, malt extract solution, PCTs mixture, and nicotinamide powder are dissolved in water and stirred until completely dissolved.

[0042] The ingredients of each case can refer to Table 1 as follows;

[0043] Table 1 Formulation Table (unit: wt%)

[0044] Powder of ergothioneine Powder of superoxide dismutase Powder of acetyl hydroxyproline Solution of white water lily extract Solution of malt extract PCTs mixture Powder of nicotinamide Example 1 0 0 0.01 3 0 0 0 Example 2 0 0 0.1 1.5 0 0 0 Example 3 0 0 1 0.1 0 0 0 Comparative Example 1 0 0 0.1 0 0 0 0 Comparative Example 2 0 0 0 1.5 0 0 0 Example 4 0.0001 1 0.01 3 0.1 0 0 Example 5 0.01 0.02 0.2 1.5 1 0 0 Example 6 0.5 0.001 1 0.1 3 0 0 Example 7 0.01 0.02 0.2 1.5 1 0.025 0 Comparative Example 3 0.01 0.02 0 0 1 0 0 Comparative Example 4 0.01 0.02 0.2 0 1 0 0 Comparative Example 5 0.01 0.02 0 1.5 1 0 0 Example 8 0.01 0.02 0.05 0.3 1 0 0.2 Example 9 0.01 0.02 0.05 0.3 1 0.025 0.2 Comparative Example 6 0.01 0.02 0 0.3 1 0 0.2 Comparative Example 7 0.01 0.02 0.05 0 1 0 0.2 Comparative Example 8 0.01 0.02 0 0 1 0 0.2

[0045] III. Performance Test

[0046] The test method involved in the application includes anti-glycation test, tyrosinase inhibition rate test, B16 cell melanin inhibition test, and safety test.

[0047] Each test method is as follows:

[0048] Anti-glycation test:

[0049] (1) Use PBS to prepare a mixed solution containing 80 mg / mL bovine serum albumin and 240 mg / mL glucose, filter through a 0.22 μm filter, and make 2x sugarization reaction solution.

[0050] (2) Use PBS as a solvent to prepare each sample to be tested according to the concentration in Table 1, so that the final concentration of the sample to be tested after being added to the reaction system is the concentration in Table 1.

[0051] (3) Prepare each group of reaction solutions in a centrifuge tube according to the reaction system shown in Table 2. After mixing well, incubate at 55°C for 4 days.

[0052] Table 2 Anti-sugarization test reaction system

[0053] Reaction components (mL) A B C D 2x Glycosylation reaction 1 0 1 0 2x Sample / control solution 1 1 0 0 PBS 0 1 1 2

[0054] (4) After the reaction is completed, cool the incubated solution to room temperature, centrifuge at 2000 r / min for 5 min, filter the supernatant through a 0.22 μm filter, and then take 200 μL of the reaction solution and add it to a 96-well plate. Use a fluorescence enzyme marker to detect the fluorescence intensity of each group under the conditions of an excitation wavelength of 320 nm and an emission wavelength of 460 nm.

[0055] (5) AGES inhibition rate = [1-(A-B) / (C-D)]x100%.

[0056] Tyrosinase inhibition test:

[0057] (1) Use PBS to prepare a tyrosinase solution with a final concentration of 2KU and an L-tyrosine solution with a final concentration of 0.2957 mg / mL.

[0058] (2) Use PBS as a solvent to prepare each sample to be tested according to the concentration in Table 1, so that the final concentration of the sample to be tested after being added to the reaction system is the concentration in Table 1.

[0059] (3) Set T (sample group), T0 (sample control group), C (solvent group), and C0 (solvent control group). The reaction systems of each group are shown in Table 3.

[0060] Table 3 Tyrosinase inhibition test reaction system

[0061] Reaction components T T0 C C0 Tyrosinase solution (mL) 0.1 / 0.1 / PBS (mL) / 0.1+0.4 2.5 0.1+2.5+0.4 Sample to be tested (mL) 2.5 2.5 / / L-tyrosine solution (mL) 0.4 / 0.4 /

[0062] (4) According to the reaction system of each group, add the corresponding volume of tyrosinase solution, PBS, and sample to be tested to the centrifuge tube, and add 0.1 mL of PBS to the T0 and C0 groups. Mix the solution in the tube well and incubate at room temperature for 10 min.

[0063] (5) Add 0.4 mL L-tyrosine solution to the T and C groups of centrifugal tubes, and add 0.4 mL PBS to the T0 and C0 groups. Mix the solution in the tube thoroughly, and incubate at room temperature for 10 min.

[0064] (6) After the incubation is completed, transfer the solution in each group to a 96-well plate (n=3), and use a multifunctional enzyme marker to detect the absorbance value at a wavelength of 470 nm.

[0065] (7) The tyrosinase activity inhibition rate = [1-(T-T0) / (C-C0)]x100%.

[0066] B16 cell melanin inhibition test:

[0067] (1) Inoculate B16 cells in a 6-well plate at 1.2x10^5 per well, and place in an incubator for 24 h.

[0068] (2) Starve the cells using DMEM medium containing 1% FBS for 6 h.

[0069] (3) Set up a blank group, a model group, and a sample group. Add DMEM complete medium to the blank control group, add DMEM complete medium containing 1 μg / mL MSH to the model group, and add DMEM complete medium containing 1 μg / mL α-MSH and the sample at the corresponding concentration in Table 1 to the sample group. Place in an incubator for 60 h.

[0070] (4) Trypsinize and collect the cells in each group, centrifuge to remove the supernatant, collect the precipitate and dry it. Use the BCA method to quantitatively detect the total protein concentration in each cell precipitate, and calculate the total protein content of each group of precipitates.

[0071] (5) Calculate and add an appropriate amount of NaOH solution according to the total protein content of each group to make the protein concentration of each group of precipitates after dissolution equal.

[0072] (6) 70-degree metal bath for 10 min to dissolve and disperse the precipitate into a uniform solution, transfer to a 96-well plate (n=3), and use a multifunctional enzyme marker to detect the absorbance value at a wavelength of 405 nm.

[0073] (7) The melanin production rate of each group = (OD 实验组 -OD NaOH ) / (OD Control -OD NaOH ) x 100%.

[0074] (8) Melanin improvement rate = (melanin production rate of the model group - melanin production rate of the sample group) / (melanin production rate of the model group - melanin production rate of the blank group) x 100%.

[0075] Safety test: select qualified patch test material. Put the test substance (Example 6, Example 7) into the patch tester, and the amount is about 0.020 mL-0.025 mL (liquid is added on the filter paper attached to the patch tester and placed in the patch tester). The patch tester with the test substance is attached to the back or forearm of the subject with a non-irritating tape, and the palm is pressed lightly to make it evenly attached to the skin for 24 h. The judgment criteria are shown in Table 4 (closed patch test skin reaction evaluation criteria).

[0076] Table 4 Closed patch test skin reaction evaluation criteria

[0077] Degree of reaction Score grade Skin reaction - 0 Negative reaction ± 1 Suspected reaction: only weak erythema + 2 Weak positive reaction (erythema reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, and possibly papules ++ 3 Strong positive reaction (vesicle reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, papules, and vesicles; reaction can extend beyond the test area +++ 4 Very strong positive reaction (fusion vesicle reaction): clear erythema, severe infiltration, edema, and fusion vesicles; reaction extends beyond the test area

[0078] Result determination: when the number of people with grade 1 skin adverse reactions is more than 5, or the number of people with grade 2 skin adverse reactions is more than 2 (except that the number of people with grade 2 reactions in the deodorant product patch test is more than 5), or any one case of grade 3 or above skin adverse reactions occurs, it is determined that the test substance has skin adverse reactions on the human body;

[0079] The test results are shown in Tables 5 and 6;

[0080] Table 5 Test results

[0081] AGEs inhibition rate Tyrosinase inhibition rate Melanin improvement rate Example 1 26.47 / / Example 2 60.32 / / Example 3 33.62 / / Comparative Example 1 18.00 / / Comparative Example 2 25.44 / / Example 4 / 78.56 / Example 5 / 85.51 / Example 6 / 97.13 / Example 7 / 83.95 / Comparative Example 3 / 63.35 / Comparative Example 4 / 63.35 / Comparative Example 5 / 75.33 / Example 8 / / 77.84 Example 9 / / 72.89 Comparative Example 6 / / 59.57 Comparative Example 7 / / 65.31 Comparative Example 8 / / 54.81

[0082] The safety test results are shown in Table 6:

[0083] Table 6 Closed patch skin reaction test results

[0084]

[0085] Conclusion: the human patch test results show that:

[0086] Example 30 of the subject skin showed negative reactions (scored as grade 0), according to the HAT-SOP-F1-PZ-092 human patch test judgment criteria, Example 6 and Example 7 had no adverse reactions on human skin.

[0087] Result analysis:

[0088] As can be seen from Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 of the present application, both of them exhibit a slight AGES inhibition effect when used alone at a certain concentration, and when used in combination, such as Example 2, they exhibit a more obvious AGES removal effect, which shows that the acetylhydroxyproline and white water lily extract of the present application not only exist as anti-glycation components, but also exhibit a more significant synergy;

[0089] When the two anti-glycation ingredients are applied to the comprehensive formula, we find the same significant whitening synergistic effect and melanin improvement effect, specifically, referring to Examples 4 to 7 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5, in the dual anti + whitening system, the use of acetyl hydroxyproline alone cannot bring about improvement in whitening effect, and when the two are used in combination, the improvement in whitening effect is obvious; similarly, the same conclusion is reached in Examples 8 and 9 and Comparative Examples 6 and 7.

[0090] Based on the above result analysis, it can be seen that the dual anti-glycation composition of the present application has anti-glycation synergy, and when it is applied to the dual anti + whitening system, it further exhibits whitening synergy.

Claims

1. A whitening composition, characterized by, ergothioneine, superoxide dismutase, acetyl hydroxyproline, white sleep lily extract, malt extract; The weight ratio of the ergothioneine, superoxide dismutase, acetyl hydroxyproline, white sleep lily extract, malt extract is 0.01~0.5:0.001~0.02:0.2~1:0.1~1.5:1~3.

2. The whitening composition of claim 1, wherein It also comprises a mitochondrial energy improving composition and / or nicotinamide; the mitochondrial energy improving composition is composed of sunflower bud extract, melissa extract, epigallocatechin gallate glucoside, high mountain fire fireweed callus extract, polygala root extract, soapwort extract; The weight ratio of the sunflower bud extract, melissa extract, epigallocatechin gallate glucoside, high mountain fire fireweed callus extract, polygala root extract, soapwort extract in the mitochondrial energy improving composition is 0.0005~1:0.0005~1:0.0005~1:0.001~1:0.001~1:0.001~1.

3. Use of the whitening composition according to claim 1 or 2 for preparing a cosmetic product.

4. A cosmetic product, characterized by, A cosmetic product containing the whitening composition according to claim 1 or 2.

5. The cosmetic product according to claim 4, characterized in that, The concentration of the whitening composition is 0.0001~20wt%.

6. The cosmetic product according to claim 5, characterized in that, The concentration of the whitening composition is 0.001~10wt%.

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