Down jacket pocket fitting plate making method

Abstract

The invention discloses a down jacket pocket fitting platemaking method, which comprises the following steps of: setting the size of a pocket opening according to a pocket position, and drawing a pocket opening arc line at the opening and closing position of the pocket on a front piece; the original independent pocket mouth sample plate is rectangular, the outward arc quantities of the left side edge and the right side edge of the original independent pocket mouth sample plate are determined on the basis of the original rectangle, correction arc lines are drawn on the two sides of the original independent pocket mouth sample plate according to the outward arc quantities of the two side edges, and therefore a new independent pocket mouth sample plate is determined; according to the method, the radian of the pocket opening is comprehensively researched, the pocket opening arc at the opening and closing position of the pocket and the arc at the two side edges of the original pocket opening independent sample plate are optimized, and the optimal value combination is obtained through multiple experiments and verification records, so that the pocket opening is in a natural flush shape, and the pocket appearance is flat and fit; the problems that in the prior art, pocket openings of pockets are irregularly deformed along with stress of clothes body fabric, a continuous natural opening state is formed, and heat cannot be kept away due to air leakage are solved.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a garment pattern making technology field, in particular to a kind of down jacket pocket fitting pattern making method. BACKGROUND

[0002] In the existing down jacket design and production technology, there are obvious defects in the structure processing of zipperless pocket. Such pocket is mostly fixed on the side of body by single sewing or simple overlock process, without considering the dynamic change after human wearing. When human body is in standing, walking or daily activity state, natural arc is generated due to physiological curvature difference between waist and crotch, which causes irregular deformation of pocket opening with body fabric stress, and forms continuous natural opening state. This problem not only destroys the flatness and beauty of the overall appearance of down jacket, but more importantly, the opened pocket opening becomes a channel for cold air to enter, and external cold air directly enters the pocket through the gap of pocket opening, and then penetrates into the inside of body, breaks the original warm layer structure of down jacket, significantly reduces the warmth retention effect of the clothes on the waist and crotch parts of human body, and affects the body comfort of the wearer. SUMMARY

[0003] The technical problem to be solved by the present application is to solve the defects of the prior art, and to provide a kind of down jacket pocket fitting pattern making method. The down jacket pocket fitting pattern making method comprehensively studies the arc of the pocket opening, optimizes the arc line at the opening and closing position of the pocket, the arc line drawn at the pocket opening position of the palm bag cloth and the palm bag pad, and the arc line at both sides of the original pocket independent pattern, and obtains the optimal value combination through multiple experiments and verification records, so that the pocket opening presents natural and uniform state, and the appearance of the pocket is flat and fitted. The problem of irregular deformation of pocket opening with body fabric stress, continuous natural opening state and air leakage is solved.

[0004] To solve the above technical problems, the technical scheme adopted by the present application is: A kind of down jacket pocket fitting pattern making method, comprising the following steps: Step 1, make a pattern according to human proportion on the front piece, mark the opening and closing position of the pocket on the front piece, which includes end points A1 and A2; Step 2, determine the pocket opening size according to the pocket position, draw the pocket opening arc line at the opening and closing position of the pocket on the front piece; mark points A3, A4 at 1.5 cm from both ends of the pocket opening inward direction and make a mark, mark point A5 at 0.5 cm from the center of the pocket opening inward direction and make a mark, connect A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 five points to form a pocket opening arc line, which is completed on the front piece; Step 3, copy the same arc line on the palm bag cloth, palm bag pad and pocket opening position, which is the piece to be sewn with the front piece; Step 4, sew the back of the hand bag cloth to the corresponding position; Step 5, the original bag mouth independent template is a rectangle, and the left side and the right side of the original independent bag mouth template are determined to be outwardly curved on the basis of the original rectangle. The modified arc lines are drawn on both sides of the original bag mouth independent template according to the amount of outward arc of the two sides, so as to determine the new bag mouth independent template. Step 6, the new bag mouth independent template is folded, filled and sewn to form a new independent bag mouth. At this time, the new independent bag mouth is sewn to the corresponding position of the back of the hand bag cloth, and the modified arc line side matches the bag mouth arc line.

[0005] Further, step 3 includes the following steps: Step 31, draw an arc line at the bag mouth position of the palm bag cloth, which is the same as the bag mouth arc line; Step 32, draw an arc line at the bag mouth position of the palm bag pad, which is the same as the bag mouth arc line; Step 33, after the arc line at the bag mouth position of the palm bag cloth is coincided with the bag mouth arc line on the front piece, the palm bag cloth is sewn to the front piece. After the arc line at the bag mouth position of the palm bag pad is coincided with the bag mouth arc line on the front piece, the palm bag pad is sewn to the palm bag cloth. Thus, the palm bag cloth and the palm bag pad are both sewn to the bag position on the front piece.

[0006] Further, step 5 includes the following steps: Step 51, the original bag mouth independent template determines the independent bag mouth thickness according to the amount of filling bulge inside on the basis of the original rectangle; Step 52, the amount of outward arc of the left side and the right side of the independent bag mouth template is determined according to the independent bag mouth thickness. The amount of outward arc of the left side is the amount of expansion of the center point of the left side to the outside of the bag and is marked as point B1, and the amount of outward arc of the right side is the amount of expansion of the center point of the right side to the outside of the bag and is marked as point B2. Step 53, the left side modified arc line is drawn along the two end points of the left side and the point mark B1, and the right side modified arc line is drawn along the two end points of the right side and the point mark B2, so as to determine the new bag mouth independent template.

[0007] In one embodiment, further comprising: step 54, determining that the independent bag mouth thickness is 0.6-0.7 cm, and determining that the amount of outward arc of the side of the independent bag mouth template is 0.35 cm.

[0008] In one embodiment, further comprising: step 54, determining that the independent bag mouth thickness is 0.8-0.9 cm, and determining that the amount of outward arc of the side of the independent bag mouth template is 0.45 cm. At this time, in step 2, the bag mouth center is collected to the inside of the bag by 0.65 cm and marked as point A5.

[0009] In one embodiment, further, step 54, the thickness of the independent bag opening is determined to be 0.4-0.5 cm, and the amount of outward arc of the independent bag opening template side is determined to be 0.25 cm; at this time, in step 2, 0.35 cm is collected in the bag opening center to the bag inner direction and a point mark A5 is made.

[0010] The present application has the following beneficial effects: The present application comprehensively studies the curvature of the bag opening, optimizes the bag opening arc at the opening and closing position of the bag, the arc drawn at the bag opening position of the palm bag cloth and the palm bag pad, and the arc at the two side edges of the original bag opening independent template, and obtains the optimal value combination through multiple experiments and verification records, so that the bag opening presents a natural uniform opening, the appearance of the pocket is flat and fit, and the problems of irregular deformation of the bag opening of the pocket due to the stress of the body fabric, the formation of a continuous natural open state and the problem of air leakage and poor warmth retention in the prior art are solved. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0011] Figure 1 is a structure schematic diagram of a pocket fitting method of a down jacket according to the present application.

[0012] Figure 2 is Figure 1 a partial enlarged schematic diagram of the opening and closing position of the pocket.

[0013] Figure 3 (a) is an appearance diagram of the original pocket, Figure 3 (b) is an appearance diagram of the present application.

[0014] Among them: 1. front piece; 2. palm bag cloth; 3. palm bag pad; 4. back bag cloth; 5. original bag opening independent template; 11. pocket opening and closing position; 12. bag opening arc; 51. left side; 52. right side; 51'. left side correction arc; 52'. right side correction arc. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0015] The present application will be further described in detail below in combination with the drawings and specific preferred embodiments.

[0016] In the description of the present application, it should be understood that the terms "left side", "right side", "upper part", "lower part" and the like indicate the orientation or positional relationship based on the orientation or positional relationship shown in the drawings, and are only for the convenience of describing the present application and simplifying the description, and do not indicate or imply that the devices or elements referred to must have a particular orientation, be constructed and operated in a particular orientation, and "first", "second" and the like do not represent the importance of the parts, so it cannot be understood as a limitation on the present application. The specific dimensions used in the present embodiment are only for the purpose of illustrating the technical solutions and do not limit the protection scope of the present application. Example 1

[0017] As Figures 1-2As shown, a pattern for attaching a down jacket pocket includes a front piece 1, a hand pocket fabric 2, a hand pocket pad 3, a back pocket fabric 4, and an independent template for the original pocket opening 5.

[0018] This application provides a method for creating a pattern for attaching a down jacket pocket, including the following steps: Step 1: Make the front piece 1 according to the human body proportion and mark the pocket opening position 11 on the front piece 1, which includes the endpoints A1 and A2; Step 2, as follows Figure 2 As shown, determine the bag opening size according to the bag position, and draw the bag opening arc 12 at the bag opening position 11 on the front piece 1; taper the bag opening 0.2cm inward from about 1.5cm from both ends of the bag opening and mark it with points A3 and A4, taper the bag opening 0.5cm inward from the center of the bag opening and mark it with point A5, and connect the five points A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5 to form the bag opening arc 12. This line is completed on the front piece 1. Preferably, the women's bag opening is 16cm long and 3.5cm wide; the men's bag opening is 18cm long and 4cm wide. Step 3: Copy the same arc as the pocket opening position 11 for the pocket fabric 2 and pocket pad 3. The two pieces with the arc drawn are the pieces that will be sewn to the front piece. Step 31: Draw an arc at the opening position of the hand pocket 2 that is the same as the arc 12 of the pocket opening; Step 32: Draw an arc at the opening position of the hand-held pad 3, which is the same as the arc 12 of the bag opening; Step 33: Align the arc at the opening of the hand pocket 2 with the arc 12 at the opening of the front piece 1, and sew the hand pocket 2 to the front piece; align the arc at the opening of the hand pocket pad 3 with the arc 12 at the opening of the front piece 1, and sew the hand pocket pad 3 to the hand pocket 2; thus, the hand pocket 2 and the hand pocket pad 3 are both sewn to the corresponding pocket positions on the front piece.

[0019] Step 4: Sew the handbag fabric 4 to the corresponding position; Step 5: The original independent bag opening template 5 is rectangular. Based on the original rectangle, determine the amount of outward curvature of the left side 51 and the right side 52 of the original independent bag opening template. Draw correction arcs on both sides of the original independent bag opening template 5 according to the amount of outward curvature of the two sides, thereby determining the new independent bag opening template. The original independent pocket opening template is folded in half and sewn together to form an independent pocket opening. The inside of the independent pocket opening is filled with down or cotton, and then filled and sewn in the usual way. Figure 3 As shown in (a), an inward curve appears at the opening of the independent bag, forming a continuous, naturally open state. Based on the original independent bag opening template, this application determines the amount by which the two sides of the original independent bag opening template should curve outward, thereby determining a new independent bag opening template. The new independent bag opening template determined by the method of this application is as follows:Figure 3 As shown in (b), after folding, sewing, and filling, the pocket opening of the independent bag will not shrink inward, but will present a natural, even shape. The pocket will have a flat and close-fitting appearance, which solves the problem in the prior art where the pocket opening deforms irregularly with the force of the garment fabric, resulting in a continuous, naturally open state.

[0020] Furthermore, step 5 includes steps 51-54: Step 51: Determine the thickness of the independent bag opening based on the original rectangular template according to the amount of bulge in the inner filling (thickness of the filling material); Step 52: Determine the amount by which the left side 51 and right side 52 of the independent bag opening template should be curved outwards according to the thickness of the independent bag opening; whereby the amount by which the left side 51 should be curved outwards is the amount by which the center point of the left side 51 expands outwards towards the outside of the bag and is marked with a point B1; the amount by which the right side 52 should be curved outwards is the amount by which the center point of the right side 52 expands outwards towards the outside of the bag and is marked with a point B2. Step 53: Draw the left correction arc 51' along the two ends of the left side and the point mark B1, and draw the right correction arc 52' along the two ends of the right side and the point mark B2, thereby determining the new bag opening independent template; Step 54: Determine the thickness of the independent bag opening to be 0.6~0.7cm, and determine the outward curvature of the side of the independent bag opening template to be 0.35cm.

[0021] Step 6: Fold the new independent bag opening template in half, fill it, and sew it to form a new independent bag opening. At this time, sew the new independent bag opening to the corresponding position of the back pocket fabric 4, and its corrected arc side matches the bag opening arc 12 exactly.

[0022] like Figure 3 As shown, Figure 3 (a) shows the appearance of a regular down jacket without zippered pockets, which naturally open due to the difference in curvature of the waist and hips when worn and the weight of the filling. Figure 3 (b) Shows the flat and fitted pocket appearance of the patented design. Based on the above pattern preparation method, the inventor conducted experiments on the curvature of the pocket opening of the patented design and made verification records. It can be found that the optimal comfort state is when the curvature is set at parameters of 0.35 (curvature on both sides of the original pocket opening independent template) and 0.5 (curvature 12 of the pocket opening at position 11, and the curvature drawn at the pocket opening position of the hand pocket fabric 2 and hand pocket pad 3).

[0023] Table 1. Record of Verification Process for Bag Opening Curvature Setting

[0024] Table 2. Warmth Insulation Test Records of the Original Pocket and the Pocket of the Invention

[0025] As shown in Table 2, according to the test of the warmth retention of the pocket of the conventional down jacket without the zipper (the original pocket) and the pocket of the application, it can be seen that the warmth retention of the pocket made by the pocket patterning method of the application is much higher than that of the original pocket. Example 2

[0026] The other parts are the same as those of Example 1, and the only difference is in step 54: In step 54, the thickness of the independent pocket opening is determined to be 0.8-0.9 cm, and the amount of the outward arc of the side edges of the independent pocket pattern is determined to be 0.45 cm; at this time, the arc line 12 in step 2, and the arc line trajectory drawn at the pocket opening position of the palm pocket cloth 2 and the palm pocket pad 3 are synchronously adjusted, specifically, in step 2, the center of the pocket opening is collected by 0.65 cm in the pocket inward direction and marked as point A5. Example 3

[0027] The other parts are the same as those of Example 1, and the only difference is in step 54: In step 54, the thickness of the independent pocket opening is determined to be 0.4-0.5 cm, and the amount of the outward arc of the side edges of the independent pocket pattern is determined to be 0.25 cm; at this time, in step 2, the center of the pocket opening is collected by 0.35 cm in the pocket inward direction and marked as point A5.

[0028] The application comprehensively studies the curvature of the pocket opening, optimizes the pocket opening arc line 12 at the pocket opening and closing position 11, the arc line drawn at the pocket opening position of the palm pocket cloth 2 and the palm pocket pad 3, and the arc line at the two side edges of the original pocket independent pattern, and obtains the optimal value combination through multiple experiments and verification records, so that the pocket opening presents a natural and uniform appearance, the appearance of the pocket is flat and fits, and the problems of irregular deformation of the pocket opening of the prior art due to the stress of the body fabric, the formation of a continuous and natural open state, and the problem of air leakage and poor warmth retention are solved.

[0029] The technical features of the above-described embodiments can be combined in any manner. To make the description concise, not all possible combinations of the technical features in the above-described embodiments are described, and as long as the combinations of the technical features do not exist, they should be considered as the scope of the description.

[0030] The preferred embodiments of the application are described in detail above, but the application is not limited to the specific details in the above-described embodiments, and various equivalent transformations of the technical solutions of the application can be made within the technical concept of the application, and these equivalent transformations all belong to the protection scope of the application.

Claims

1. A method of making a pattern for a down jacket pocket, the method comprising: The method comprises the following steps: ​ Step 1, make a pattern according to the human body proportion on the front piece, mark the opening and closing position of the pocket, which comprises end points A1 and A2; Step 2, determine the pocket opening size according to the pocket position, draw the pocket opening arc line at the opening and closing position of the pocket on the front piece; at 1.5 cm away from both ends of the pocket opening, inwardly towards the pocket by 0.2 cm and mark points A3 and A4, and at the center of the pocket opening, inwardly towards the pocket by 0.5 cm and mark a point A5, connect the five points A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5 to form the pocket opening arc line, and the drawing is completed on the front piece; Step 3, copy the same arc line on the palm pocket cloth and the palm pocket pad at the opening and closing position of the pocket, and the two pieces of drawn arc line are the pieces to be sewn with the front piece; Step 4, sew the back pocket cloth to the corresponding position; Step 5, the original pocket opening independent template is a rectangle, determine the outward arc amount of the left side and the right side of the original pocket opening independent template on the basis of the original rectangle, draw the modified arc line on both sides of the original pocket opening independent template according to the outward arc amount of the two sides, and thus the new pocket opening independent template is determined; Step 6, fold, fill and sew the new pocket opening independent template to form a new independent pocket opening, at this time, the new independent pocket opening is sewn to the corresponding position of the back pocket cloth, and the modified arc line side matches the pocket opening arc line.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein: Step 3 comprises the following steps: Step 31, draw the same arc line as the pocket opening arc line at the pocket opening position of the palm pocket cloth; Step 32, draw the same arc line as the pocket opening arc line at the pocket opening position of the palm pocket pad; Step 33, after superimposing the arc line at the pocket opening position of the palm pocket cloth on the pocket opening arc line on the front piece, sew the palm pocket cloth to the front piece; after superimposing the arc line at the pocket opening position of the palm pocket pad on the pocket opening arc line on the front piece, sew the palm pocket pad to the palm pocket cloth; thus, the palm pocket cloth and the palm pocket pad are both sewn to the pocket position on the front piece.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein: Step 5 comprises the following steps: Step 51, determine the thickness of the independent pocket opening according to the amount of filling and bulging on the inside on the basis of the original rectangle of the original pocket opening independent template; Step 52, determine the outward arc amount of the left side and the right side of the independent pocket opening template according to the thickness of the independent pocket opening; wherein the outward arc amount of the left side is the amount of expansion of the center point of the left side outwardly to the pocket and is marked as point B1, and the outward arc amount of the right side is the amount of expansion of the center point of the right side outwardly to the pocket and is marked as point B2; Step 53, draw the left side modified arc line along the two end points and the point mark B1 of the left side, and draw the right side modified arc line along the two end points and the point mark B2 of the right side, and thus the new pocket opening independent template is determined.

4. The method of claim 3, wherein: Further comprising: Step 54, determine the thickness of the independent pocket opening to be 0.6-0.7 cm, and determine the outward arc amount of the side of the independent pocket opening template to be 0.35 cm.

5. The method of claim 3, wherein: Step 54, determine the thickness of the independent pocket opening to be 0.8-0.9 cm, and determine the outward arc amount of the side of the independent pocket opening template to be 0.45 cm; at this time, in step 2, mark a point A5 by inwardly collecting 0.65 cm at the center of the pocket opening.

6. The method of claim 3, wherein: Step 54, determine the thickness of the independent bag opening is 0.4-0.5cm, determine the independent bag opening template side to the amount of arc outward is 0.25cm; at this time, step 2, in the bag opening center to the bag direction of 0.35cm and do point mark A5.

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