Personal care compositions and methods of using such compositions
By combining taurine and sulfobetaine surfactants with nonionic solubilizers, the balance between transparency, foaming properties and viscosity of high-content vegetable oils in personal care compositions was solved, achieving excellent care effects from keratin materials.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2017-04-05
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing personal care cleaning compositions, when incorporating relatively high levels of plant oils, struggle to maintain a balance of transparency, foaming properties, and viscosity while providing good conditioning effects.
A personal care composition containing at least 0.3 pbw of plant oil is formed by using a specific combination of taurine surfactants and sulfobetaine surfactants, combined with nonionic solubilizing alkoxylated fatty acid esters, for the care and cleaning of keratin materials.
This results in a transparent, well-foamed composition with moderate viscosity, providing excellent conditioning effects for keratin materials, such as easy untangling, softness, and gloss, while avoiding a greasy feel.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] This application is a divisional application of the following application: Application date: April 5, 2017; Application number: 2017800224536; Invention title: "Personal care composition and method of using such composition".
[0002] This application claims priority to European application No. 16164499.2, filed on 8 April 2016, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference for all purposes. Technical Field
[0003] This invention relates to personal care compositions and methods of using such compositions.
[0004] In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions exhibiting both conditioning and cleansing properties for simultaneously caring for and washing keratin materials. Background Technology
[0005] Cosmetic cleansing compositions, which are essentially based on traditional surfactants (particularly anionic, nonionic, and / or amphoteric surfactants), are used to cleanse keratinous materials such as hair and / or skin. Typical examples of cosmetic cleansing compositions include body care compositions such as shower gels, facial cleansers, body washes, and liquid hand soaps, as well as hair care compositions such as shampoos and conditioning agents.
[0006] Applying these compositions to wet hair or skin, and the resulting foam from massaging or rubbing with your hands, may remove dirt initially present on the hair or skin after rinsing with water.
[0007] Despite their good cleansing power, these base compositions retain rather weak cosmetic properties, and in particular, the relatively aggressive nature of such cleansing treatments may cause more or less damage to keratin materials in the long term, especially damage involving the gradual removal of oils or proteins present in or on the surface of these keratin materials.
[0008] This is why most cosmetic cleansing compositions further contain additional cosmetic agents (called conditioning agents), which are primarily intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects caused by repeated treatments or attacks on keratin materials. These conditioning agents can also improve the cosmetic behavior of keratin materials.
[0009] The most commonly used conditioning agents (especially in hair care product formulations) are cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives.
[0010] Recently, there has been a growing demand for personal care compositions that include safe, environmentally friendly and / or natural conditioning agents, and especially for personal care compositions that contain plant oils as the main conditioning agent.
[0011] The use of plant oils in cosmetic formulations has been known since early times. Plant oils possess emollient and moisturizing properties and impart great softness to the skin. They are also known to provide conditioning effects to hair, such as increasing detangling and softness.
[0012] In addition, in hair care formulations, plant oils generally provide hair with better softness and / or better smoothness (evenness from root to tip) compared to formulations that include conventional cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives as the main conditioning agents.
[0013] However, in order to truly benefit from their conditioning properties, especially when vegetable oils are used as the primary conditioning agent, there is a need for dissolving relatively high amounts of vegetable oils (typically at least 0.3 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition).
[0014] However, the introduction of relatively high amounts of plant oils into clean personal care compositions often has a negative impact on other properties, such as the foaming properties or viscosity of the overall composition, and / or may also lead to adverse effects such as an unacceptable greasiness on the composition or target area.
[0015] Furthermore, clear or transparent cosmetic compositions are particularly desirable because consumers equate transparency with purity. Generally speaking, transparent formulations also have aesthetic appeal.
[0016] However, introducing relatively high levels of plant oils into cleansing personal care compositions may negatively impact transparency.
[0017] This is why one of the main challenges when incorporating relatively high amounts of plant oils into cosmetic compositions is to benefit from the conditioning properties of the plant oils while maintaining satisfactory foaming properties and not negatively impacting the viscosity and / or transparency of the overall composition. Summary of the Invention
[0018] Therefore, the objective of this invention is to address the growing market demand for personal care cleaning and conditioning compositions, which are preferably transparent and contain a relatively high content of plant oils, while maintaining satisfactory viscosity and foaming properties.
[0019] Another objective of the present invention is to provide personal care cleaning and conditioning compositions, which are preferably transparent, well-foamed and exhibit good conditioning properties, such as easy detangling, softness and gloss, and satisfactory viscosity. Detailed Implementation
[0020] This application has now unexpectedly discovered that personal care compositions containing a specific combination of surfactants (one of which is a taurine surfactant and the other is a sulfobetaine surfactant) along with a specific solubilizer make it possible to achieve the above objectives.
[0021] All quantities are expressed as parts by weight (pbw) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] Therefore, the subject of this invention is a cosmetic cleansing composition comprising at least: a) One or more vegetable oils in an amount of at least 0.3 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition. b) A surfactant system comprising at least one sulfobetaine surfactant and a taurine surfactant, ranging from about 2 pbw to about 40 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) A nonionic solubilizer comprising at least 0.1 pbw of the total weight of the composition, wherein the nonionic solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl ester or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid.
[0023] The present invention also relates to the use of such compositions for simultaneously caring for and washing keratin materials (e.g., hair and skin).
[0024] Surprisingly, it has been found that the specific surfactant mixtures and solubilizers used in the compositions according to the invention make it possible to formulate relatively high amounts of vegetable oil while simultaneously achieving an acceptable trade-off between the viscosity, foaming properties, and conditioning of the target area of the composition, while maintaining transparency.
[0025] The compositions of the present invention can impart noteworthy treatment effects to keratin materials, particularly hair, with particular benefits of easy detangling and contributions to softness and shine without a major greasy feel.
[0026] Furthermore, when applied to the skin (e.g., in the form of bubble bath or shower gel), the compositions of the present invention can, for example, improve the softness of the skin.
[0027] The foaming properties (such as appearance, consistency, foam abundance and / or foam elimination) and the viscosity of the compositions of the present invention are also satisfactory. In particular, the compositions of the present invention allow for acceptable stretching onto keratin materials.
[0028] The expression "composition having a satisfactory viscosity" here means a composition having an apparent viscosity between 1,500 and 50,000 cps, for example between 2,000 and 30,000 cps, for example between 2,000 and 25,000 cps, for example between 2,500 and 20,000 cps. The apparent viscosity of each composition was measured using a Brookfield Viscosimeter Model DV-I+ with a No. 4 RV rotor at 10 RPM in a temperature-controlled chamber (21°C ± 3°C) for 24 hours. Viscosity values were always obtained after a 1-minute settling time.
[0029] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention has an apparent viscosity greater than 1,500 cps, for example greater than 2,000 cps.
[0030] The term "transparent composition" here refers to a composition that exhibits a clear, transparent visual appearance, for example, exhibiting a transmittance value of 85% or more, preferably 88% or more, and more preferably 90% or more at 600 nm.
[0031] Transmittance (%T) was measured using a Lambda Bio 40 UV / VIS spectrometer in a 2.5 ml polystyrene cell (10 x 10 mm) at 600 nm.
[0032] According to any one of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is a transparent composition.
[0033] However, the compositions within the scope of this invention are not transparent by themselves because they also contain one or more additives that adversely affect transparency, such as pearlescent agents and / or opaque agents.
[0034] The term "foaming properties" here specifically refers to flash foam and foam volume, which are among the main factors influencing consumers' perception of foam quality. Well-known tests, notably as described in the experimental section, can be used to measure these factors.
[0035] The phrase "conditioning of a target area" means imparting positive properties to that target area. This target area can, in particular, be a keratin material. As used herein, "keratin material" includes, but is not limited to, skin, hair, scalp, lips, eyelashes, and nails. Preferably, the target area is skin, hair, and / or scalp.
[0036] For example, in the case where the target area is hair, “improved conditioning” can cover improved detangling and / or combability, softness and / or shine.
[0037] Ease of untangling can be determined by measuring the time required to untangle hair. The shorter the untangling time, the easier the hair is to untangle.
[0038] Hair's combability can be determined by measuring the effort required to comb it. The lower the combing effort, the easier the hair is to comb.
[0039] Softness, hair feel, and shine can be assessed by a panel of experts using sensory tests on the length and ends of the hair.
[0040] Alternatively, in the case where the target area is skin, “improved conditioning” can encompass improved moisturizing properties.
[0041] Moisturizing properties can be determined through sensory tests known to technicians.
[0042] The term "oil" refers to fatty compounds or substances that are in liquid or pasty (non-solid) form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0043] The compositions of the present invention are personal care compositions, preferably personal care cleaning compositions, i.e., compositions intended for washing / cleaning and particularly for body care applications, such as, but not limited to, bath gels, facial cleansers, shower gels, liquid hand soaps, shampoos, or cleansing conditioners.
[0044] Elsewhere in the specification and claims, various numerical values or limitations may be combined to form additional undisclosed and / or unstated scopes. To avoid any ambiguity, the amount of surfactant refers to the actual amount of the active surfactant compound present in the composition. In other words, this amount does not include residues that may be present as impurities in commercially available surfactant mixtures.
[0045] If any patent, patent application, or disclosure incorporated herein by reference conflicts with the description of this application to the extent that it may lead to ambiguity in terminology, then this description shall take precedence.
[0046] One or more vegetable oils The compositions of the present invention comprise one or more vegetable oils, which may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0047] Vegetable oils (natural, organic oils) are understood to be preferably triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides.
[0048] In the composition according to the invention, the minimum content of one or more vegetable oils (preferably non-volatile vegetable oils) is 0.3 pbw.
[0049] According to any one of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile vegetable oil.
[0050] The non-volatile vegetable oils according to the invention are oils that typically exhibit a boiling temperature greater than 300 °C at 760 mm Hg and do not exhibit or exhibit very low vapor pressure. In particular, essential oils (which are volatile oils) are not included in the definition of non-volatile vegetable oils according to the invention.
[0051] Preferred vegetable oils include coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, ailanthus oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, blouse oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, camellia oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, shea butter, tartary elm oil, and / or mixtures of these oils.
[0052] Typical examples of plant-derived oils that can be used include the following (INCI names): Baobab (Adansonia Digitata) seed oil, Aleurites Molluccana seed oil, Alpinia Speciosa leaf oil, Argemone Mexicana oil, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) seed oil, Calodendrum Capense nut oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum seed oil, Camellia Chekiangoleosa seed oil, Papaya seed oil, Cedrus Deodara seed oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil, Crambe Abyssinica seed oil, Egg yolk oil, Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) seed oil, and Hydrogenated Camellia Oleifera seed oil, hydrogenated evening primrose oil, hydrogenated hazelnut oil, hydrogenated lanolin, hydrogenated macadamia seed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame seed oil; hydroxyjojoba oil; isobutyrate-treated lanolin oil; Lesquerella Fendleri seed oil, marmot oil, mink oil, Ocimum Tenuiflorum oil, Orbignya Cohune seed oil, ostrich oil; Phormium Tenax seed oil, PPG-40-PEG-60 lanolin oil, PPG-12-PEG-65 lanolin oil, Pongamia Glabra seed oil, Pinus Parviflora seed oil, Sclerocarya Birrea seed oil, Schleichera seed oil. Trijuga seed oil, Jojoba seed oil, Sorbus Aucuparia seed oil, Corn oil, Bertholletia Excelsa seed oil PEG-8 ester, Coconut oil methyl propylene glycol ester, Jojoba oil PEG-8 ester, Hydrogenated castor oil behenyl ester, Hydrogenated castor oil cetyl ester, Hydrogenated castor oil dimer linoleate, Hydrogenated castor oil stearate, Hydrogenated olive oil octanoyl ester, Hydrogenated olive oil cetyl ester, Hydrogenated olive oil decyl ester, Hydrogenated olive oil hexyl ester, Hydrogenated olive oil lauryl ester, Hydrogenated olive oil myristyl ester, Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl ester;PEG-8 esters from Orbignya Oleifera seed oil, PEG-8 esters from Passiflora Edulis / Passiflora Incarnata seed oil, unsaponifiables from Brassica Campestris rapeseed oil, unsaponifiables from Brassica Oleracea Botrytis cauliflower oil, unsaponifiables from Butyrospermum Parki shea butter, unsaponifiables from low-erucic acid rapeseed oil, unsaponifiables from Citrus Aurantifolia lime seed oil, unsaponifiables from Citrus Aurantium Dulcis sweet orange seed oil, and Citrus... Unsaponifiables from Grandis (grapefruit) seed oil, hydrogenated apricot oil, hydrogenated grapefruit seed oil, hydrogenated lime seed oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated orange seed oil, hydrogenated sweet almond oil, hydrogenated wheat germ oil, sunflower (Helianthus Annuus) seed oil, white lupin oil, alfalfa (Medicago Sativa) oil, olive oil, olive fruit, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, sesame (esamum Indicum) oil, and wheat (Triticum) oil. Unsaponifiable matter from Vulgare (wheat) germ oil and corn (corn) oil.
[0053] The vegetable oils according to the present invention are preferably selected from sunflower oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, sweet almond oil, soybean oil, cucumber oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, castor oil, walnut oil, coconut oil, almond oil, olive oil, bitter sunflower oil, cashew oil, and purcellin oil.
[0054] According to a preferred embodiment, the vegetable oil is primarily present in the oil phase of the composition of the present invention.
[0055] Therefore, according to this embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 50 pbw of one or more vegetable oils, particularly at least 60 pbw, such as from 60 to 90 pbw or even 100 pbw of one or more vegetable oils, relative to the total weight of the oil phase.
[0056] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises from 0.5 pbw to 5 pbw, for example at least 0.6 pbw, for example at least 0.7 pbw, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, vegetable oil is the main conditioning agent in the composition of the present invention, that is, the weight percentage of vegetable oil in the composition of the present invention is greater than the weight percentage of any other conditioning agent, such as greater than the weight percentage of any silicone oil or mineral oil, or any cationic or amphoteric conditioning agent.
[0058] Solubilizer The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one nonionic solubilizer, which is a monoalkyl ester, polyalkyl ester, or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid.
[0059] Suitable fatty acids include saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated (C8-C22), more typically (C12-C18) fatty acids and combinations thereof.
[0060] Typical examples of saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acids include ricinoleic acid, lesquerolic acid, hydroxysuccinic acid (16-hydroxy-2,2-cis-13-enoic acid), or hydroxypalmitoic acid (12-hydroxy-6,6-cis-9-enoic acid), and combinations thereof.
[0061] Typical examples of saturated or unsaturated non-hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, sorbic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0062] Preferably, the fatty acid used as the starting material is a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid, typically (C12-C18) fatty acid. According to this embodiment, the solubilizer of the present invention is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid, typically (C12-C18) fatty acid.
[0063] Preferably, the fatty acid used as a starting material is an unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22), typically (C12-C18) fatty acid.
[0064] Unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acids include ricinoleic acid, 14-hydroxy-11-eicosenoic acid (lesquerolic acid), and hydroxyerucic acid (16-hydroxy-2,2-cis-13-enoic acid).
[0065] In one embodiment of the invention, the solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid, preferably an unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid, and more typically a (C12-C18) fatty acid.
[0066] The fatty acid can be ricinoleic acid, particularly derived from natural sources such as non-hydrogenated castor oil. For example, ricinoleic acid can be obtained from the saponification of castor oil.
[0067] When hydroxylated fatty acids (such as ricinoleic acid) are used as starting materials, many hydroxyl groups can be alkoxylated, that is, one or more hydroxyl groups on the fatty acid chain and hydroxyl groups from the carboxyl group.
[0068] The alkoxylation of hydroxylated fatty acids (such as ricinoleic acid) thus produces specific alkoxylated fatty acids compared to, for example, alkoxylated fatty acids obtained from non-hydroxylated fatty acids.
[0069] The solubilizer of the present invention is a monoalkyl ester, polyalkyl ester, or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid as described above, that is, the monoalkyl ester, polyalkyl ester, or alkenyl ester of the fatty acid as described above has been pre-alkoxylated with 2 or more moles of (C2-C4) epoxide units per molecule.
[0070] The fatty acid may have been pre-alkoxylated with 2 or more moles of ethylene oxide units, propylene oxide units, or ethylene oxide-propylene oxide units per molecule.
[0071] The number of (C2-C4) epoxide units can be, for example, in the range of 2 moles to 500 moles, for example, 5 moles to 250 moles, for example, 5 moles to 100 moles, for example, 5 moles to 50 moles, for example, 10 moles to 30 moles per molecule.
[0072] In one embodiment of the invention, the solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of (C2-C4) (more typically C2) alkoxylated fatty acids (preferably hydroxylated fatty acids) as described above, wherein the number of (C2-C4) (more typically C2) epoxide units is in the range of 5 to 100, for example, from 5 to 50, for example, from 10 to 30.
[0073] The solubilizer of the present invention is a monoalkyl ester or polyalkyl ester or alkenyl ester of alkoxylated fatty acids (preferably hydroxylated fatty acids) as described above, that is, a monoester or polyester of such alkoxylated fatty acids, wherein the ester portion (i.e. the portion derived from the acid that reacts with the hydroxyl group) is alkyl or alkenyl.
[0074] The ester moiety can be derived from fatty acids having from about 8 to about 40 carbon atoms, for example from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example from about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms.
[0075] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids suitable for preparing the ester moiety include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, lauric acid, arachidic acid, docosanoic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, heptadecanoic acid, and acids in combination thereof. These fatty acids may in particular be oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitic acid derived from natural sources such as palm oil.
[0076] In one embodiment of the invention, the solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of (C2-C4) (more typically C2) alkoxylated fatty acids (preferably hydroxylated fatty acids such as ricinoleic acid) as described above, wherein the ester is partially derived from fatty acids, such as oleic acid derived from palm oil.
[0077] In one embodiment of the invention, the solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of (C2-C4) (more typically C2) alkoxylated fatty acids (preferably hydroxylated fatty acids such as ricinoleic acid) as described above, wherein the number / molecule of alkyl epoxide units is preferably in the range of 10 to 30, and wherein the ester is partially derived from fatty acids, such as oleic acid preferably derived from palm oil.
[0078] The solubilizer of this invention is different from ethoxylated vegetable oils and ethoxylated glycerides.
[0079] The HLB of nonionic solubilizers or surfactants can be calculated and measured using a method defined in the publication WC Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), 249-256 pages, i.e., HLB = 20 x Mh / M (where Mh is the molecular weight of the hydrophilic portion of the molecule and M is the total molecular weight of the molecule), giving a scaled result from 0 to 20.
[0080] For the nonionic solubilizer of the present invention, the following equation may be used: HLB = 20 x (1 - (A / B)), where A = the saponification value of the ester and B = the acidification value of the acid.
[0081] According to the Griffin method, an HLB value of 0 corresponds to a completely lipophilic / hydrophobic molecule, and an HLB value of 20 corresponds to a completely hydrophilic / lipophobic molecule.
[0082] For anionic surfactants, the method described in the publication F.D. Vies J.T. "A Quantitative Kinetic Theory of Emulsion Types. I. Physical Chemistry of the Emulsifying Agent." [[Quantitative Kinetic Theory of Emulsion Type I, Physical Chemistry of Emulsifiers]] Gas / Liquid and Liquid / Liquid Interfaces. Proceedings of the 2 nd The calculation method is defined in International Congress Surface Activity [Gas / Liquid and Liquid / Liquid Interfaces, Proceedings of the Second International Congress on Surface Activity] (1957) 426-438.
[0083] According to any embodiment of the present invention, the HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of the solubilizer of the present invention at room temperature is less than 18, for example less than 16, for example less than 14, for example less than 12, for example less than 10, for example less than 8.
[0084] According to any embodiment of the present invention, the HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of the solubilizer of the present invention at room temperature is greater than 2, for example greater than 4, for example greater than 6, for example greater than 7.
[0085] According to any embodiment of the present invention, the HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of the solubilizer of the present invention at room temperature is between 5 and 10, for example between 6 and 9, for example between 7 and 8.
[0086] The solubilizer according to the invention can be obtained by esterification of alkoxylated fatty acids, which are commercially available compounds. Such reactions can be carried out by conventional methods well known to those skilled in the art.
[0087] Examples of suitable solubilizers include PEG-18 castor oil dioleate, which is an oleic acid diester of ethoxylated castor oil (where the average ethoxylation value is 18), and is sold, for example, under the name Marlowet CG.
[0088] Also mentioned is PEG 16 CO oleate, marketed by Solvay under the name Alkamuls PEG 16 Co.
[0089] It has been unexpectedly found that the solubilizer of the present invention is very effective in the formulation of vegetable oils while maintaining the transparency of the composition.
[0090] Advantageously, the solubilizers of the present invention also detrimental to the conditioning properties of the composition. For example, during sensory evaluation, it has been found that comparative solubilizers such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil negatively impact foaming properties (less abundant foam) and softness (less soft hair when dry) compared to PEG-18 castor oil dioleate or PEG-16 CO oleate.
[0091] The solubilizer of the present invention can be formulated with high amounts of vegetable oil, even when the vegetable oil is present in the composition at a relatively low weight ratio.
[0092] Advantageously, the solubilizers of the present invention have also been developed to be effective for different types of natural oils themselves, thus avoiding the need for solubilizer mixtures that solubilizer formulators typically have to resort to.
[0093] According to any embodiment of the invention, the solubilizer is present at a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 10 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.1 to 5 pbw, for example from 0.2 to 3 pbw, for example from 0.3 to 2 pbw.
[0094] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio between the vegetable oil and the solubilizer of the present invention required to obtain the transparent composition is in the range of 1:5 to 5:1, for example from 1:4 to 4:1, for example from 1:3 to 3:1, for example from 1:2 to 2:1, for example from 1:2 to 1:1.
[0095] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is a transparent composition and the weight ratio between the vegetable oil and the solubilizer of the present invention is in the range of 1:5 to 5:1, for example from 1:4 to 4:1, for example from 1:3 to 3:1, for example from 1:2 to 2:1, for example from 1:2 to 1:1.
[0096] surfactant system The surfactant system of this composition contains at least one sulfobetaine surfactant and one taurine surfactant.
[0097] It may also contain additional cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and / or nonionic surfactants.
[0098] sulfobetaine surfactant The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from sulfobetaine surfactants.
[0099] According to any one of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises sulfobetaine of the following formula: Where m is 2 or 3, or where –(CH2)3SO3 - The following variants of (hydroxysulfobetaine) are replaced by: Where R 1 It is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, and R 2 and R 3 Each is independently an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, or carboxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0100] According to any one of the embodiments of the present invention, the sulfobetaine surfactant is hydroxysulfobetaine, especially hydroxysulfobetaine of the following formula: Where R 1 Fatty acid residues, and R 2 and R 3 Each is an alkyl group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl.
[0101] Fatty acids obtained from natural oils often consist of mixtures of fatty acids. For example, fatty acids obtained from coconut oil contain a mixture of fatty acids including C12 lauric acid, C14 myristic acid, C16 palmitic acid, and C8 caprylic acid.
[0102] R 1 It may include residues of one or more naturally occurring fatty acids and / or one or more synthetic fatty acids.
[0103] R 1 Examples of carboxylic acids that may be derived from their derivative residues include coco acid, butyric acid, hexanoic acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidic acid, codoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, behinic acid, erucic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, lignoceric acid, naturally occurring fatty acids such as those obtained from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, milk fat, palm oil, olive oil, corn oil, flaxseed oil, peanut oil, fish oil, and rapeseed oil; synthetic fatty acids made with a single chain length or a selected chain length distribution; and mixtures thereof.
[0104] Most preferably, R 1 It contains residues of lauric acid (a saturated fatty acid with 12 carbon atoms) or residues of a mixture of fatty acids derived from coconut oil.
[0105] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the sulfobetaine surfactant is cocamidohydroxysulfobetaine.
[0106] As demonstrated in Example 1, it has been unexpectedly found that the specific use of sulfobetaine surfactants in the compositions of the present invention makes it possible to achieve a very good trade-off between the following properties: viscosity of the composition, transparency of the composition, and conditioning of the target area. When using the sulfobetaine surfactants of the present invention, all of the above properties are improved compared to using cocamidopropyl betaine as an amphoteric surfactant.
[0107] Similar results were obtained when the amphoteric surfactant of the present invention was replaced in formulation 1 of the present invention by cocobetaine or by cocoamphoacetate.
[0108] In both cases, there is a decrease in the viscosity of the formulation and at the same time, the formulation becomes cloudy.
[0109] In contrast, formulations of the present invention, which include the sulfobetaine surfactant of the present invention as an amphoteric surfactant, are transparent and exhibit a higher viscosity. According to any embodiment of the present invention, the sulfobetaine surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 pbw to 10 pbw, for example from 0.5 pbw to 9 pbw, for example from 1 pbw to 8 pbw, for example from 1.5 pbw to 7 pbw, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, each composition of the present invention, based on 100 pbw, contains any other amphoteric surfactant from 0 to less than 2 pbw that is different from the sulfobetaine surfactant of the present invention.
[0111] In particular, according to any of the embodiments of the present invention, each composition of the present invention comprises, based on 100 pbw of such composition, an amide betaine, from 0 to less than 2 pbw, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0112] More typically, each of the compositions of the present invention comprises, based on 100 pbw of such a composition, from 0 to less than 1 pbw of amide betaine (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), and even substantially free of amide betaine, i.e., from 0 to less than 0.1 pbw of amide betaine per 100 pbw of the composition, more typically free of amide betaine, i.e., 0 pbw of amide betaine per 100 pbw of the composition.
[0113] Taurine surfactants The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one anionic surfactant selected from taurine surfactants.
[0114] According to any one of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one having the formula R a CON(CH3)CH2CH2SO3X a methyl alkyl taurine salts, wherein R a It is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 6 to 30, for example 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and X a It is a balanced ion.
[0115] Balanced ion X a It can be an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, or an ammonium ion.
[0116] Balanced ion X a Typically, alkali metal ions, particularly sodium ions, are used. This balancing ion can be alternatively another alkali metal ion, such as potassium or lithium; alkaline earth metal ions, such as calcium and magnesium; or optionally substituted ammonium ions, such as alkylammonium ions having up to six aliphatic carbon atoms, including isopropylammonium, monoethanolammonium, diethanolammonium, and triethanolammonium.
[0117] Typical examples of taurine salts are methylcocoyl taurine and methyloleoyl taurine.
[0118] According to any embodiment of the present invention, the taurine surfactant is selected from the group consisting of methylcocoyl taurine and methyloleoyl taurine. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the sulfobetaine surfactant is methyloleoyl taurine. As demonstrated in Example 3, it has been unexpectedly found that the specific use of methyl oleoyl taurine in the compositions of the present invention makes it possible to achieve even better trade-offs among the following properties: viscosity of the composition, transparency of the composition, and conditioning of the target area, compared to compositions that do not contain taurine at all, or to compositions that include alternative taurines, such as methyl cocoyl taurine. Advantageously, the viscosity of compositions containing methyl oleoyl taurine is improved without negatively impacting the transparency of the composition (%T remains greater than 85%).
[0119] According to any of the embodiments of the invention, the taurine surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 pbw to 10 pbw, for example from 0.5 pbw to 8 pbw, for example from 1 pbw to 6 pbw, for example from 1.5 pbw to 5 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] Other anionic surfactants The compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more anionic surfactants different from the taurine surfactants of the present invention.
[0121] In one specific embodiment, the additional anionic surfactant may be selected from alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl ether sulfates, and glycerol monoester sulfates.
[0122] Typical examples of such surfactants include sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ALES).
[0123] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the additional anionic surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 pbw to 25 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 1 pbw to 20 pbw, for example from 3 pbw to 15 pbw, for example from 5 pbw to 15 pbw.
[0124] In another embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be a sulfate-free composition. This means that the composition of the present invention can be free of, i.e., free of, any anionic surfactants that are sulfate derivatives (0 pbw).
[0125] The term "anionic surfactant that is a sulfate derivative" means a surfactant that contains at least one anionic group selected from sulfate functional groups (-OSO3H or -OSO3-) or a group that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0126] According to this specific embodiment, the following anionic surfactants are preferably not present in the compositions according to the invention: salts of alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl ether sulfates, and glycerol monoester sulfates.
[0127] For example, according to this specific embodiment, the following anionic surfactants are preferably not present in the composition according to the invention: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ALES).
[0128] Nonionic surfactants In one specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.
[0129] Optional additional nonionic surfactants may be selected from, for example, alkanolamide surfactants and glycoside surfactants.
[0130] Suitable alkanolamide surfactants are known compounds and include, for example, acetamide MEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide methyl MEA, cocamide MIPA, hydroxystearamide MEA, PEG-5 cocamide MEA, lactamide MEA, lauramide MEA, and lauramide DEA, preferably cocamide MIPA or cocamide methyl MEA.
[0131] Suitable glycoside surfactants are known compounds and include, for example, (C4-C22) alkyl hexoglycosides such as butyl glucoside, nonyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, dodecyl glucoside, hexadecyl glucoside, octadecyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, hexanoyl ethyl glucoside, capryloyl / decyl glucoside, capryloyl glucoside, (C4-C22) alkyl polyhexoglycosides such as butyl polyglucoside, nonyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, docecoenyl polyglucoside, (C4-C22) alkyl pentose glycosides such as nonyl arabinoside, decyl arabinoside, hexadecyl arabinoside, octyl xyloside, nonyl xyloside, decyl xyloside, hexadecyl xyloside, docecoenyl xyloside; and (C4- C22) alkyl polypentosides, such as butyl polyarabinoside, nonyl polyarabinoside, decyl polyarabinoside, hexadecyl polyarabinoside, octadecyl polyarabinoside, docecaprylyl polyarabinoside, butyl xyloside, nonyl xyloside, decyl xyloside, octadecyl xyloside, docecaprylyl xyloside, butyl poly(arabinose-co-xylose) glycoside, nonyl poly(arabinose-co-xylose) glycoside, decyl poly(arabinose-co-xylose) glycoside, hexadecyl poly(arabinose-co-xylose) glycoside, octadecyl poly(arabinose-co-xylose) glycoside, docecaprylyl poly(arabinose-co-xylose) glycoside, and mixtures of any such compounds, wherein the term "poly(arabinose-co-xylose) glycoside" refers to a copolymer chain of monomeric residues of arabinose and xylose. Preferably, the glycoside surfactant is decyl glucoside.
[0132] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the additional nonionic surfactant (e.g., alkanolamide surfactant and / or glycoside surfactant) may be present at a concentration ranging from 0.1 pbw to 10 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.2 pbw to 8 pbw, for example from 0.5 pbw to 5 pbw, for example from 1 pbw to 5 pbw.
[0133] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, in the composition of the present invention, the weight ratio of taurine surfactant to sulfobetaine surfactant is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1, based on the weight percentage of each surfactant in the final composition.
[0134] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one additional anionic surfactant as described above, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate and / or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, and at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkanolamide surfactants and glycoside surfactants, and does not contain any additional amphoteric surfactants.
[0135] The surfactant system in the composition of the present invention may consist of a taurine surfactant, a sulfobetaine surfactant (especially a hydroxysulfobetaine surfactant), one or more other anionic surfactants (especially sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate and / or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate) and a nonionic surfactant selected from alkanolamide surfactants and glycoside surfactants.
[0136] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the total amount of surfactant in the composition of the present invention is in the range of 5 pbw to 25 pbw, for example from 7 pbw to 22 pbw, for example from 10 pbw to 20 pbw, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the total amount of surfactant in the composition of the present invention is less than 15 pbw, for example less than 14 pbw, for example less than 13 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] The weight ratio of anionic surfactants to amphoteric surfactants can typically range from 1:10 to 10:1.
[0139] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may comprise an anionic-rich surfactant base, i.e., a surfactant base wherein the ratio of anionic surfactant to amphoteric surfactant is greater than 1, for example greater than 2.
[0140] In another embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise an amphoteric surfactant base, i.e., a surfactant base in which the ratio of amphoteric surfactant to anionic surfactant is greater than 1, for example greater than 2.
[0141] Conditioner According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may further comprise a conditioning agent, especially a cationic or amphoteric conditioning agent.
[0142] These reagents can help with oil deposition. They can also provide some conditioning effects.
[0143] They can, for example, enhance the look and feel of hair, increase body or smoothness, aid in combing and styling, improve shine or luster, and improve the texture of hair damaged by chemical or physical processes. They can provide antistatic effects, altering the static properties of hair. They can also enhance skin softness.
[0144] Compared to compositions without conditioning agents at all, they also help to achieve a good trade-off between the following properties: the viscosity of the composition and conditioning of the target area. They generally adversely affect the transparency of the composition.
[0145] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the conditioning agent may be cationic cellulose.
[0146] Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, New Jersey, USA) in the form of its polymer JR (trademark) and LR (trademark) series polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethylammonium-substituted epoxides (known in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternium salt 10). Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethylammonium-substituted epoxides (known in the industry (CTFA) as polyquaternium salt 24). These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, New Jersey, USA) under the trade name Polymer LM-200.
[0147] In another embodiment, the conditioner may be a cationic polysaccharide polymer, especially a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia under its JAGUAR trademark series).
[0148] In one specific embodiment, the conditioner may be a derived guar gum containing cationic and nonionic substituents.
[0149] Derived guar gum is a polymer obtained by chemically modifying guar gum. This chemical modification is often referred to as derivatization. This modification provides side groups to the guar gum polymer backbone. These side groups are typically linked to the backbone via ether bonds. The oxygen in this ether bond corresponds to the hydroxyl group on the guar gum backbone, which reacts to carry out the modification. Guar gum is derived from the mucilage found in the seeds of the legume *Cyamopsis tetragonolobus*. Guar seeds used to make guar gum consist of a pair of tough, non-brittle endosperm portions (hereinafter referred to as "guar splits") with a brittle embryo (plumule) sandwiched between these endosperm portions. After dehulling, these seeds are split open, and the plumule (43 pbw-47 pbw of the seed) is removed by sieving. These slices typically contain about 78 pbw-82 pbw of guar gum, as well as small amounts of protein material, inorganic salts, water-insoluble gum, and cell membranes, along with some residual seed coat and embryo.
[0150] The water-soluble portion (85 pbw) is referred to as "guar sugar" or "guar gum," and it consists of a straight chain of (1,4)-β-D-mannopyranosyl units and α-D-galactopyranosyl units attached by (1,6) bonds. The ratio of D-galactose to D-mannose is approximately 1:2. The backbone of guar gum should be understood here as containing both mannose and galactose groups.
[0151] Modification by cationic substituents is known to those skilled in the art.
[0152] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the cationic substituents in the derived guar gum of the present invention include cationic nitrogen groups, more typically quaternary ammonium groups.
[0153] Typical quaternary ammonium groups are trialkylammonium groups, such as trimethylammonium, triethylammonium, and tributylammonium; aryldialkylammonium groups, such as benzyldimethylammonium; and ammonium groups in which the nitrogen atom is a member of a cyclic structure, such as pyridinium and imidazoline groups. Each of these quaternary ammonium groups is combined with a counterion (typically chloride, bromide, or iodide counterions).
[0154] According to any embodiment of the invention, the cationic substituent is connected to the reactive functional group of the cationic agent, for example, via an alkylene or alkylene oxide linking group. Suitable cationic agents include, for example, epoxy-functionalized cationic nitrogen compounds, such as 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; chloroethanol-functionalized cationic nitrogen compounds, such as 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-lauryl dimethylammonium chloride, 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-stearyl dimethylammonium chloride; and vinyl- or (meth)acrylamide-functionalized nitrogen compounds, such as methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0155] According to any of the embodiments of the invention, the cationic substituent may be, for example, hydroxypropylammonium. These can be obtained, for example, by reacting guar gum with compounds such as 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride. According to INCI terminology, guar gum containing only such cationic substituents is called guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride. Jaguar C14S, supplied by Rhodia, is a typical example of guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0156] Modification by nonionic substituents is known to those skilled in the art.
[0157] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic substituents in the derived guar gum of the present invention include hydroxyalkyl and / or poly(alkyleneoxy) groups.
[0158] Under known alkoxylation conditions, hydroxyalkyl and / or poly(alkyleneoxy) groups can typically be added to the guar gum polysaccharide chain by reacting guar gum with alkylene oxide derivatives such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or butane oxide. According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic substituents in the derived guar gum of the present invention include hydroxypropyl groups.
[0159] Hydroxypropyl groups can typically be added to guar gum polysaccharide chains by reacting guar gum with reactants such as propylene oxide.
[0160] Guar gum derivatives, including those with cationic and nonionic substituents, are known to those skilled in the art. According to INCI terminology, some are referred to as hydroxypropyl guar gum hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0161] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the derived guar gum of the present invention is hydroxypropyl guar gum hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0162] Jaguar C162, supplied by Rhodia, is a typical example of hydroxypropyl guar gum hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0163] Jaguar LS, a hydroxypropyl guar gum with hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride, also supplied by Rhodia, is particularly suitable as a derivative of the guar gum of this invention.
[0164] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the degree of modification by nonionic substituents (molar substitution degree or MS) is preferably between 0.1 and 1.2, and more preferably between 0.3 and 0.7.
[0165] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the degree of modification (degree of substitution or DS) by the cationic substituent is preferably between 0.01 and 0.6, and more preferably between 0.05 and 0.20.
[0166] According to any embodiment of the invention, the derived guar gum of the invention, depending on its possible degree of polymerization, has a weight-average molar mass of at least 10,000 g / mol, and more preferably above 100,000 g / mol, and more preferably above 500,000 g / mol, for example from 500,000 g / mol to 3,000,000 g / mol, for example from 500,000 g / mol to 1,500,000 g / mol or even more.
[0167] As demonstrated in Example 2, it has been unexpectedly found that the specific use of derived guar gum in the compositions of the present invention makes it possible to achieve even better trade-offs between the following properties: viscosity, transparency, and conditioning of the target area, compared to compositions without any conditioning agent or compositions including another conditioning agent. In other words, the specific use of derived guar gum in the compositions of the present invention not only provides the intended conditioning benefits but also positively affects other properties, namely viscosity and transparency of the composition. It can, for example, further improve its viscosity without negatively impacting its transparency (%T still greater than 85%).
[0168] Other cationic or amphoteric conditioning agents known in the art may be used, provided that they are compatible with the compositions of the present invention.
[0169] In particular, synthetic cationic polymers (e.g., polymers comprising units having quaternary or tertiary ammonium groups and optionally neutral units) and synthetic amphoteric copolymers (e.g., polymers comprising units having quaternary or tertiary ammonium groups, units having anionic (usually acidic) groups and optionally neutral units) may be mentioned.
[0170] Conditioners are known to those skilled in the art. Examples of typical conditioners include (INCI names): Polyquaternium-1; Polyquaternium-2; Polyquaternium-4; Polyquaternium-5; Polyquaternium-6; Polyquaternium-7; Polyquaternium-8; Polyquaternium-9; Polyquaternium-10; Polyquaternium-11; Polyquaternium-12; Polyquaternium-13; Polyquaternium-14; Polyquaternium-15; Polyquaternium-16; Polyquaternium-17; Polyquaternium-18; Polyquaternium-19; Polyquaternium-20; Polyquaternium-22; Polyquaternium-24; Polyquaternium-27; Polyquaternium-18; Polyquaternium-19; Polyquaternium-20; Polyquaternium-22; Polyquaternium-24; Polyquaternium-27; Polyquaternium-18; Polyquaternium-19; Polyquaternium-20; Polyquaternium-22; Polyquaternium-23; Polyquaternium-24; Polyquaternium-25; Polyquaternium-19; Polyquaternium-10; Polyquaternium-11; Polyquaternium-12; Polyquaternium-13; Polyquaternium-14; Polyquaternium-15; Polyquaternium-16; Polyquaternium-17; Polyquaternium-18; Polyquaternium-19; Polyquaternium-20; Polyquaternium-22; Polyquaternium-24; Polyquaternium-25; Polyquaternium-26 ... Ammonium salt-28; Polyquaternium salt-29; Polyquaternium salt-30; Polyquaternium salt-31; Polyquaternium salt-32; Polyquaternium salt-33; Polyquaternium salt-34; Polyquaternium salt-35; Polyquaternium salt-36; Polyquaternium salt-37; Polyquaternium salt-39; Polyquaternium salt-43; Polyquaternium salt-44; Polyquaternium salt-45; Polyquaternium salt-46; Polyquaternium salt-47; Polyquaternium salt-48; Polyquaternium salt-49; Polyquaternium salt-50; Polyquaternium salt-52; Polyquaternium salt-53; Polyquaternium salt- 54; Polyquaternium-55; Polyquaternium-56; Polyquaternium-57; Polyquaternium-58; Polyquaternium-59; Polyquaternium-60; Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-64; Polyquaternium-65; Polyquaternium-66; Polyquaternium-67; Polyquaternium-70; Polyquaternium-73; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquaternium-75; Polyquaternium-76; Polyquaternium-85; Polyquaternium-86; Polyβ-alanine; Polyε-lysine; Polylysine; PEG- 8 / SMDI copolymer; PPG-12 / SMDI copolymer; PPG-51 / SMDI copolymer; PPG-7 / succinic acid copolymer; IPDI / PEG-15 coconut amine copolymer; IPDI / PEG-15 coconut amine copolymer dimer linoleate; IPDI / PEG-15 soybean amine copolymer; IPDI / PEG-15 soybean amine oxide copolymer; IPDI / PEG-15 soybean amine ethanol sulfate copolymer (Soyethonium) Ethosulfate Copolymer); Polyquaternium-4 / hydroxypropyl starch copolymer; Cassia gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Chitosan hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Galactose-arabinogalactan hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Ginseng hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride; Guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Hydroxypropyl guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Sophora japonica hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; Hydrolyzed wheat starch hydroxypropyltrimonium; Hydrolyzed corn starch hydroxypropyltrimonium; Hydroxypropyl oxidized starch PG-trimonium chloride; Tamarind hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride;Polyacrylamide-propyltrimethylammonium chloride; Polymethacrylamide-propyltrimethylammonium chloride; Polymethacrylamide-propyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate; Propyltrimethylammonium chloride methacrylamide / dimethacrylamide copolymer; Acrylamide / benzylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride acrylate copolymer; Acrylamide / ethyltrimethylammonium chloride acrylate / benzylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride acrylate copolymer; Acrylate / carbamate copolymer; Adipic acid / methylDEA copolymer; Diethylene glycol / DMAP acrylamide / PEG-180 / HDI copolymer; Dihydroxyethyl tallow amine / IPDI copolymer; Dimethylamine / ethylenediamine / epicochlorohydrin copolymer; HEMA glucoside / ethyl methacrylate trimethylammonium chloride copolymer; Hydrolyzed wheat protein / PEG-20 acetate copolymer; Hydrolyzed wheat protein / PVP crosslinked polymer; Ethyltrimethylammonium chloride methacrylate / hydroxyethylacrylamide copolymer.
[0171] The amount of cationic or amphoteric conditioning agents in these compositions can be based on the compositions, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 10 pbw, particularly preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5 pbw, and especially preferably in the range of 0.2 to 2 pbw.
[0172] In addition to the compounds described above, the compositions according to the present invention contain physiologically acceptable media.
[0173] Physiologically acceptable media are those particularly suitable for the application of the compositions of the present invention to keratin materials. Such physiologically acceptable media are generally suitable for the properties of the matrix to which the composition must be applied, and also for the manner in which the composition must be packaged.
[0174] According to any embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises water in an amount ranging from 5 pbw to 90 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] It may contain water, for example, at least 25 pbw, at least 50 pbw, or at least 60 pbw of the total weight of the composition.
[0176] In one embodiment, a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium may consist of water only.
[0177] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent.
[0178] According to this embodiment, a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can consist of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent (such as a lower C1-C4 alcohol or an alkylene glycol). The lower C1-C4 alcohol is preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, and n-butanol. The alkylene glycol is preferably selected from propylene glycol and ethylene glycol ethers.
[0179] According to any one of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention further comprises an electrolyte.
[0180] The term “electrolyte” here means an ionic salt that is completely soluble in the composition at the concentration used.
[0181] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the electrolyte of any composition according to the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of alkali metal salts and ammonium salts. Specifically, such electrolyte may be an alkali metal salt.
[0182] Electrolytes such as NaCl or KCl can be cited as examples of non-limiting examples.
[0183] Electrolytes may be present in small amounts in various components (especially surfactants) used to prepare the compositions of the present invention, or alternatively added separately from other components (“added salts”).
[0184] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention contains less than 3 pbw, for example less than 2 pbw, for example less than 1 pbw of electrolyte (especially added salt) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0185] When an electrolyte (such as NaCl) is added to the composition of the present invention, the viscosity gradually decreases. Transparency is also negatively affected: depending on the amount of salt added, the composition changes from cloudy to opaque.
[0186] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of added salt, that is, include added salt in amounts from 0 to less than 0.1 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the present invention may even be free of added salt, i.e., 0 pbw of added salt / 100 pbw of the composition.
[0187] The compositions of the present invention may further comprise additional optional ingredients that may provide specific benefits for the intended use. Such optional ingredients may include colorants, pearlescent agents, emollients, hydrating agents, opacifiers, preservatives, and pH adjusters. Those skilled in the art can select appropriate such optional ingredients for the intended application based on general knowledge in the field of formulating personal care compositions such as shampoos, shower gels, and hand soaps, as well as the extensive literature available therein.
[0188] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises one or more beneficial agents, such as emollients, moisturizers, conditioning agents, skin conditioning agents, or hair conditioning agents such as silicones such as volatile silicones, gels or oils, or non-amino silicones and mixtures thereof, mineral oils, esters including butyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, decyl oleate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl castor oil, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isobutyl palmitate, isobutyl stearate, etc. Cetyl ester, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl linoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, propylene glycol castor oil, propylene glycol stearate, and isostearate; animal fats, including acetylated lanolin, lanolin, lard, mink oil, and tallow; and fatty acids and alcohols, including betaine acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and eicosanyl alcohol. Alcohol) and isocetyl alcohol; vitamins or their derivatives, such as B-complex vitamins including thiamine, niacin, biotin, pantothenic acid, choline, riboflavin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, pyridoxine, inositol, carnitine, vitamins A, C, D, E, K and their derivatives, such as vitamin A palmitate, and provitamins, such as panthenol (provitamin B5), panthenol triacetate and mixtures thereof; antioxidants; free radical scavengers; abrasives, natural or synthetic; dyes; hair coloring agents; bleaching agents; hair bleaching agents; UV absorbers, such as benzophenone, prednisolone, PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid), butyl PABA, cinnamic acid amide trimethyl ammonium chloride. Chloride), disodium stilbene diphenyl disulfonate, potassium methoxycinnamate; UV resistant agents, such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, octyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethyl hydroxypropyl aminobenzoate, methyl anthranilate, aminobenzoic acid, sinoxalate, diethanolamine methoxycinnamate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, oxybenzone, octyl dimethyl PABA (pardimethicone O), red petrolatum; antimicrobial agents; antibacterial agents, such as bacitracin, erythromycin, triclosan, neomycin, tetracycline. Chlortetracycline, benzyl chloride, phenol, p-chloro-meta-xylenol (PCMX), triclocarban (TCC), chlorhexidine gluconate (CHG), zinc pyrithione, selenium disulfide; antifungal agents; melanin regulators; tanning accelerators; depigmenting agents, such as retinoic acid (e.g., retinol), kojic acid and its derivatives (e.g., kojic acid dipalmitate), hydroquinone and its derivatives (e.g., arbutin), tranexamic acid, vitamins (e.g., niacin, vitamin C and its derivatives), azelaic acid, placertia, licorice, extracts (e.g., chamomile and green tea), wherein retinol, kojic acid and hydroquinone are preferred;Skin brightening agents, such as hydroquinone, catechol and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; skin pigments, such as dihydroxyacetone; fat regulators; weight loss agents; anti-acne agents; anti-seborrheic agents; anti-aging agents; anti-wrinkle agents; keratolytic agents; anti-inflammatory agents; anti-acne agents, such as retinoic acid, isotretinoin, morphine, adapalene, tazarotene, azelaic acid, retinol, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, resorcinol; antibiotics such as tetracycline and its isomers, erythromycin... Inflammatory agents such as styramine, anti-inflammatory agents such as ibuprofen, naproxen, and hetprofen; plant extracts such as alder, arnica, artemisia capillaris, asarum root, calendula, chamomile, cnidium, plants of the Boraginaceae family, fennel, gallnut, hawthorn, houttuynia cordata, hypericum plants, jujube, kiwi, licorice, magnolia, olive, peppermint, philodendron, sage, and bamboo shoots; imidazoles such as ketoconazole and neoconazole; air fresheners; healing agents; vascular protectants; used to reduce dandruff. Medications for seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis, such as zinc pyrithione, shale oil and its derivatives such as sulfonated shale oil, selenium sulfide, sulfur, salicylic acid, coal tar, povidone-iodine, imidazoles such as ketoconazole, dichlorophenylimidazolidinyl benzoxoprolol, clotrimazole, itraconazole, miconazole, clomiphene citrate, tiaconazole, thioconazole, butoconazole, fluconazole, miconazole nitrite and any possible stereoisomers and their derivatives such as anthralin, and octopirox ethanolamine. Selenium sulfide, ciclopirox olamine, anti-psoriasis agents such as vitamin D analogs, such as calcipotriol, calcitriol, and tacaleitrol; vitamin A analogs such as vitamin A esters, including retinyl palmitate, retinoids, retinol, and retinoic acid; corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, clobetasol butyrate, and clobetasol propionate; antiperspirants or deodorants such as aluminum oxychloride and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate; immunomodulators; nourishing agents; depilatory agents such as calcium thioglycolate, magnesium thioglycolate, potassium thioglycolate, and strontium thioglycolate; agents for combating hair loss; reducing agents for perming; reflective agents such as mica, alumina, calcium silicate, glycol dioleate, glycol distearate, silica, and sodium magnesium fluorosilicate; essential oils and fragrances.
[0189] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a beneficial agent selected from insoluble or partially insoluble components, such as moisturizers or conditioning agents, hair colorants, UV protectants, anti-wrinkle agents, fragrances or essential oils, skin colorants, anti-dandruff agents, and provides enhanced deposition of such beneficial agent on a matrix (e.g., hair and / or skin).
[0190] In one embodiment, the personal care composition of the present invention further comprises one or more beneficial agents ranging from about 0.1 to about 50 pbw, more typically from about 0.3 to about 25 pbw, and even more typically from about 0.5 to 10 pbw.
[0191] The compositions according to the invention may optionally further comprise other ingredients, such as preservatives like benzyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, salicylic acid, methylchloroisothiazolinone, and methylisothiazolinone; thickeners like high molecular weight crosslinked polyacrylic acid (carbomer), PEG diester of stearic acid, etc.; viscosity modifiers like block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide; electrolytes like sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, and polyvinyl alcohol; pH adjusters like citric acid, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate; fragrances; dyes; and chelating agents like disodium EDTA. In general, the personal care composition may optionally comprise, based on 100 pbw of the personal care composition and independently for each such ingredient, up to about 10 pbw, preferably from 0.5 pbw to about 5.0 pbw of such other ingredients, depending on the desired properties of the personal care composition.
[0192] In general, the compositions of the present invention may optionally contain, based on 100 pbw of the personal care composition and independently for each such ingredient, up to about 15 pbw, preferably from 0.5 pbw to about 10 pbw of such other ingredients, depending on the desired properties of the composition.
[0193] In one specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises aromatic materials or fragrances.
[0194] As used herein, the term "aromatic material or fragrance" means any organic substance or composition that has desired olfactory properties and is substantially non-toxic. Such substances or compositions include all aromatic materials and fragrances commonly used in fragrance manufacturing or personal care compositions. The compounds involved may be of natural, semi-synthetic, or synthetic origin.
[0195] Preferred aromatic materials and fragrances can be specified as categories containing substances of hydrocarbons, aldehydes, or esters. These aromatics and fragrances also include natural extracts and / or flavorings, which can comprise complex mixtures of multiple components, namely, fruits such as almonds, apples, cherries, grapes, pears, pineapples, oranges, lemons, strawberries, raspberries, etc.; musk and floral scents such as lavender, jasmine, lilies, magnolias, roses, irises, carnations, etc.; herbal scents such as rosemary, thyme, sage, etc.; and woodland scents such as pine, spruce, cedar, etc.
[0196] The applicant has found that personal care compositions containing a specific combination of anionic surfactants (one of which is taurine and the other is sulfobetaine along with a specific solubilizer) remain stable over time, even when they contain a large amount of aromatic materials or fragrances.
[0197] In one embodiment, the composition comprises aromatic materials or fragrances ranging from 0.01 pbw to 10 pbw based on the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition comprises aromatic materials or fragrances ranging from 0.1 pbw to 5 pbw based on the total weight of the composition. In yet another embodiment, the composition comprises aromatic materials or fragrances ranging from 0.2 pbw to 2 pbw based on the total weight of the composition.
[0198] One or more other oils According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additional oil, preferably selected from silicone oil and mineral oil.
[0199] In particular, the compositions of the present invention may contain one or more silicone oils.
[0200] Silicone oil is known to those skilled in the art.
[0201] These are often referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. In this application, the terms "silicone" or "polyorganosiloxane" may be used interchangeably. The terms "silicone" or "polyorganosiloxane" should be understood to mean any organosiloxane compound containing an alkyl (e.g., methyl) group and / or functionalized by groups other than alkyl groups.
[0202] Silicones can be linear, cyclic, or branched polymers or oligomers of monomeric silicon / oxygen (organosiloxane) monomers, optionally carrying additional functional groups. The polymer backbone typically consists of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms. These silicon atoms can carry various substituents, which can be the same or different. The functional end-capping groups can carry nitrogen or hydroxyl moieties.
[0203] The polyorganosiloxane is advantageously (particularly in shampoos and conditioners) to be a non-volatile and water-insoluble polyorganosiloxane.
[0204] It advantageously exhibits a viscosity between 1,000 mPa·s and 2,000,000 mPa·s, and more preferably between 5,000 mPa·s and 500,000 mPa·s.
[0205] Specifically, the polyorganosiloxane may be polydimethylsiloxane (“PDMS”, INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane), or a polyorganosiloxane exhibiting an amino group (e.g., amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name)), a quaternary ammonium group (e.g., silicone quaternary ammonium salt -1 to -10 (INCI name)), a terminal or non-terminated hydroxyl group, a polyoxyalkylene group (e.g., polyethylene oxide and / or polyoxypropylene group (as a terminal group, as a block within the PDMS chain or as a graft)), or several of these groups.
[0206] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the amount of silicone oil present in the composition relative to the total weight of the composition can typically be from 0.1 pbw to 5 pbw, and particularly from 0.5 pbw to 2 pbw.
[0207] The silicone oil (polyorganosiloxane) is preferably present in the composition in the form of an emulsion (liquid silicone droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase).
[0208] Silicone oil can exist in the composition in the following forms: - Microemulsions with a particle size of less than 0.15 µm; - Emulsions with particle sizes from 0.15 µm to less than 1 µm, or from 1 µm to less than 1.5 µm, or from 1.5 µm to less than 2 µm, or from 2 µm to less than 2.5 µm, or from 2.5 µm to less than 4 µm, or from 4 µm to less than 10 µm, or from 10 µm to less than 30 µm, or from 30 µm to 100 µm.
[0209] The size referred to here is the average size of the droplet.
[0210] The droplets of an emulsion can be larger or smaller in size. Therefore, terms such as microemulsion, fine emulsion, or coarse emulsion may be used.
[0211] In this patent application, the term "emulsion" specifically covers all these types of emulsions. It is not intended to limit one to any particular theory, but rather to indicate that microemulsions are generally thermodynamically stable systems that typically contain a significant amount of emulsifier. Other emulsions are generally thermodynamically unstable systems that retain the mechanical energy provided during emulsification for a period of time in a metastable state. These systems typically contain a smaller amount of emulsifier.
[0212] These emulsions can be obtained by mixing a carrier (preferably an aqueous carrier), a polysiloxane, and a conventional emulsifier, and then emulsifying them. In-situ emulsification may be mentioned.
[0213] Compositions in emulsion form can also be obtained by mixing a carrier (preferably an aqueous carrier) with a pre-prepared emulsion containing droplets of polyorganosiloxane in an external phase, which is preferably miscible with a cosmetically acceptable carrier (preferably having the same properties as the carrier, preferably an aqueous carrier). This embodiment is preferred because it is simple to implement. Furthermore, this embodiment is particularly suitable for implementing cosmetic compositions in which the polyorganosiloxane is in the form of a microemulsion. Pre-emulsification may be mentioned.
[0214] According to a specific embodiment, the emulsion is a microemulsion with droplet sizes less than 0.15 μm. In this embodiment, the composition preferably contains more than 10 parts by weight, preferably at least 15 parts by weight, of emulsifier relative to the weight of the polyorganosiloxane.
[0215] For example, as described below, the size of microemulsion droplets can be measured on an emulsion prepared prior to its introduction into a cosmetic composition using dynamic light scattering (QELS). The equipment used consists, for example, a Spectra-Physics 2020 laser, a Brookhaven 2030 correlator, and related calculations. Since the sample was concentrated, it was diluted in deionized water and filtered through a 0.22 μm filter to a final 2 pbw. The obtained diameter is the apparent diameter. These measurements were performed at angles of 90º and 135º. For size measurements, in addition to routine analysis by cumulative amount, autocorrelation functions were run in three ways: exponential sampling or EXPSAM as described by Pr. Pike, the "non-negative constrained least squares" or NNLS method, and the CONTIN method as described by Pr. Provencher, each yielding a size distribution weighted by scattering intensity rather than weight or number. The refractive index and viscosity of water were taken into account.
[0216] According to another specific embodiment, the emulsion is an emulsion whose droplet average size is greater than or equal to 0.15 μm, for example greater than 0.5 μm, or greater than 1 μm, or greater than 2 μm, or greater than 10 μm, or greater than 20 μm, and preferably less than 100 μm. The droplet size can be measured by optical microscopy and / or laser particle screening (Horiba LA-910 laser scattering analyzer) on the emulsion prepared before its introduction into the cosmetic composition or directly on the cosmetic composition diluted in water. In this embodiment, the composition preferably contains an emulsifier at a ratio of less than 10 pbw relative to the weight of the polyorganosiloxane.
[0217] The emulsifiers used in the preparation of polyorganosiloxane emulsions, particularly nonionic surfactants, are preferably polyalkoxylated surfactants, such as those selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated sorbitol esters, alkoxylated fatty amines, and alkoxylated... Bis(1-phenylethyl)phenol, alkoxylated tris(1-phenylethyl)phenol, and alkoxylated alkylphenol, wherein the number of alkoxy units, more specifically oxoethylidene and / or oxopropylidene units, is such that the HLB value is greater than or equal to 10.
[0218] Among the silicone derivatives that are soluble in water in the composition, polydimethylsiloxane copolyols are particularly noteworthy.
[0219] When it comes to silicones provided in the form of a dispersion in water insoluble in the composition, water-insoluble and non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes may be used, wherein reference may be made to polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes or polyalkylarylsiloxane oils, gums or resins or their water-insoluble functionalized derivatives, or mixtures thereof (non-volatile).
[0220] If the solubility of the organopolysiloxane in water is less than 50 g / L and its intrinsic viscosity is at least 3000 mPa·s at 25°C, it is considered to be water-insoluble and non-volatile.
[0221] Examples of water-insoluble and non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes or silicones include silicone sealants, such as diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane sealants, and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes exhibiting a viscosity of at least 6 × 10⁵ mPa·s at 25°C, and more preferably those with a viscosity greater than 2 × 10⁶ mPa·s at 25°C.
[0222] According to the present invention, the water-insoluble and non-volatile polyorganosiloxane or silicone is present in a form dispersed within the composition comprising it.
[0223] Water-insoluble and non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes or silicones exist in the form of particles or droplets, the size of which can be selected according to the properties of the composition or the desired performance of the composition. Generally, the size can vary from 0.01 to 70 micrometers.
[0224] To facilitate their use, these polyorganosiloxanes can be pre-dispersed or dissolved in volatile or non-volatile low-viscosity silicone derivatives and then emulsified in the composition.
[0225] Among these low-viscosity silicones, low-molecular-weight volatile cyclic silicones and polydimethylsiloxanes can be mentioned.
[0226] Functionalized silicone derivatives, such as amination derivatives, can also be used, either directly in emulsion form or from a pre-formed microemulsion. These can be compounds known under the terms amination silicone or hydroxylation silicone.
[0227] As a usable polyorganosiloxane, it is specifically mentioned that: - Polyorganosiloxanes containing -Si(CH3)2O- units and -SiY(CH3)O- units (where Y is a -(CH2)3-NH(CH2)2-NH2 or a -(CH2)3-NH2 group); - Polyorganosiloxanes containing -Si(CH3)2O- units and HO-Si(CH3)2O- terminal units and / or -Si(CH3)(OH)O- non-terminal units; - A polyorganosiloxane comprising -Si(CH3)2O- units and -SiY(CH3)O- units, wherein Y is -LX-Zx-Palc, wherein LX is a divalent linking group, preferably an alkylene group, ZX is a covalent bond or a divalent linking group containing heteroatoms, Palc is a group having the formula [OE]s-[OP]1-X', wherein OE is a group having the formula -CH2-CH2-O-, OP is a group having the formula -CH2-CHCH3-O- or -CHCH3-CH2-O-, X' is a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, s is an average number greater than 1 and t is an average number greater than or equal to 0; - Its chain comprises at least one block containing a unit having the formula -Si(CH3)2O- and at least one -[OE]s-[OP]t- block of a polyorganosiloxane; - Contains -Si(CH3)2O- units and / or -Si(CH3)RO- and / or Polyorganosiloxanes of -SiR2O- and / or R-Si(CH3)2O- and / or H3C-SiR2O- and / or R-SiR2O- units, wherein R (which may be the same or different) is an alkyl group, aryl group, alkylaryl group or aralkyl group other than a methyl group.
[0228] Examples of silicone oils that can be used include the following (INCI names): aminodipropylpolydimethylsiloxane, aminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane, aminopropylphenylpolytrimethylsiloxane, amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane hydroxystearate, amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane / sesquisiloxane copolymer, behenyltrimethylammonium polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 phthalate, diaminoPEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl polydimethylsiloxane, bis-aminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane, bis-aminopropyl / ethoxyaminopropyl polydimethylsiloxane, bis-butyl polydimethylsiloxane polyglycerol-3, bis-butoxyaminoterminated polydimethylsiloxane / PEG-60 copolymer, bis(C 13 - 15 Alkoxy)hydroxybutamidoamino amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, bis(C 13 - 15 Alkoxy)PG-amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl polydimethylsiloxane beeswax ester, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl polydimethylsiloxane isostearate, bis-isobutyl PEG-14 / amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, bis-isobutyl PEG-15 / amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, bis-PEG-1 polydimethylsiloxane, Bis-PEG-4 polydimethylsiloxane, bis-PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane, bis-PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane, bis-PEG-20 polydimethylsiloxane, bis-PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane beeswax, bis-PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane candelilla ester, bis-PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane / dimeric linoleate copolymer, bis-PEG-15 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, bisphenylhexamethylsiloxane, bis-phenylpropyl polydimethylsiloxane, bis-(polyglycerol-3-oxyphenylpropyl) polydimethylsiloxane, Bis(PPG-7 undecenol polyether-21) polydimethylsiloxane, borage seed oil PEG-7 polydimethylsiloxane ester, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinking polymer, C26-28 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinking polymer, cetrimonium carboxydecyl PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane salt, cetyl triethylammonium polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 phthalate, cetyl triethylammonium polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 succinate, cyclohexylsiloxane, cyclopolymethylsiloxane, cyclopentylsiloxane, cyclophenyl polymethylsiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, DEA PG-propyl PEG / PPG-18 / 21 polydimethylsiloxane, dimeric linoleamide propyl dimethylamine, polydimethylsiloxane Polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, polydimethylsiloxane / mercaptopropyl polymethylsiloxane copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-15 acetate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 adipate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 avocado oleate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 avocado oleate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 beeswax, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 borage oleate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 cocoate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 isostearate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 lactate, polydimethylsiloxane P EG-8 lanolinate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 meadowfoam seed oleate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 olive oil ester, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 olive oil ester, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 phosphate ester, divinyl polydimethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phthalate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 phthalate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 succinate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 succinate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 sulfate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 undecenoate, polydimethylsiloxane... Alkylpropyl PG-betaine, polydimethylsiloxane / sesquioxane copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol arginine, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol cysteine, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol lactate, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol methionine, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol panthenol, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol / sesquioxane copolymer, bis-methoxycinnamoamide propyl ethyl dimethyl ammonium chloride ether, dimethoxysilyl alkyl ethylene diaminopropyl polydimethylsiloxane, dimethylaminopropionamide PCA polydimethylsiloxane, diphenylamino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, diphenylisopropyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenylsiloxyphenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, epoxypropoxy polydimethylsiloxane Methylsiloxane, Hexyl polydimethylsiloxane, Hydrolyzed collagen PG-propyl polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, Hydrolyzed collagen PG-propyl methylsilane diol, Hydrolyzed collagen PG-propyl silane triol, Hydrolyzed keratin PG-propyl methylsilane diol, Hydrolyzed sesame protein PG-propyl methylsilane diol, Hydrolyzed silk PG-propyl methylsilane diol, Hydrolyzed silk PG-propyl methylsilane diol crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed soybean protein / polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 acetate, Hydrolyzed soybean protein PG-propyl methylsilane diol, Hydrolyzed plant protein PG-propyl silane triol, Hydrolyzed wheat protein / cystine bis-PG-propyl silane triol copolymer, Hydrolyzed wheat protein PG-propylmethylsilanediol, hydrolyzed wheat protein PG-propylsilanetriol, hydroxypropyl polydimethylsiloxane, isopolyglycerol-3 polydimethylsiloxane, isopolyglycerol-3 polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane-ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl polyglycerol-3 polydimethylsiloxane-ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, linoleamide-propyl PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate polydimethylsiloxane, Methoxylated amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane / sesquioxane copolymer, methyleugenol PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane, methylsilanol acetylmethionine ester, methylsilanol elastomeric ester, methyl polytrimethylsiloxane, nylon-611 / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, PCA polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-3 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-14 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-17 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 Distearate methyl ammonium chloride PG-polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 polymethylsiloxane, PEG-6 polymethylsiloxane acetate, PEG-6 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-7 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-9 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-11 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-32 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 nonafluorohexyl polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, PEG-12 methyl ether lauryl oxy PEG-5 amamidopropyl polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-8 PG-coco-glucoside polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-28 / 21 ester polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 22 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-22 / 22 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-23 / 23 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-24 / 18 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-27 / 9 butyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-10 / 2 polydimethylsiloxane PEG-20 / 23 methyl ether polydimethyl siloxane, PEG / PPG-20 / 22 methyl ether polydimethyl siloxane, PEG / PPG-24 / 24 methyl ether epoxypropoxylated polydimethyl siloxane, PEG / PPG-10 / 3 oil-based ether polydimethyl siloxane, PEG-4 trifluoropropyl polydimethyl siloxane copolymer, PEG-8 trifluoropropyl polydimethyl siloxane copolymer, PEG-10 trifluoropropyl polydimethyl siloxane copolymer, PG-amino-terminated polydimethyl siloxane, Phenylated polymethylsiloxane alcohol, phenylpropyl dimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyl ethyl polymethylsiloxane, phenylpropyl polytrimethylsiloxane, phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane PPG-13 butyl ether silsesquioxane, polyglycerol-3 disiloxane polydimethylsiloxane, polyglycerol-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, polysiloxane-1, polysiloxane-2, polysiloxane-3, polysiloxane-4, polysiloxane-5, polysiloxane-6, polysiloxane-7, polysiloxane-8, polysiloxane-10, polysiloxane- 13. Polysiloxane-14, Polysiloxane-18, Polysiloxane-18 Cetyl Phosphate, Polysiloxane-18 Stearate, PPG-12 Butyl Ether Polydimethylsiloxane, PPG-12 Polydimethylsiloxane, PPG-27 Polydimethylsiloxane, Propoxy Tetramethylpiperidinyl Polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternary Ammonium Salt-80, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-1, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-2, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-2 Panthenol Succinate, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-3, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-4, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-5, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-6 Polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-7, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-8, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-9, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-10, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-11, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-12, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-15, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-16, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-16 / epoxypropoxy polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer, polysiloxane quaternary ammonium salt-17. Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-18, Polysiloxane Quaternary Ammonium Salt-20, Polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 Sodium Acetylmethyl Taurate, Silachlorium Polydimethylsiloxane PEG-8 Phthalate Salt, Stearyl Dimethyl Ammonium Hydroxypropyl Panthenol-based PEG-7 Polydimethylsiloxane Phosphate Chloride, Stearyl dimethylammonium hydroxypropyl PEG-7 polydimethylsiloxane phosphate chloride, tridecyl alcohol polyether-9PG-amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, trifluoropropylcyclopentasiloxane, trifluoropropylcyclotetrasiloxane, trifluoropropyl polydimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxyamino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxaneoxyphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, glucosamidopropylaminopropyl polydimethylsiloxane, cetrimonium polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phthalate, stearyl aminopropyl polymethylsiloxane, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 phosphate, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 panthenol phosphate potassium, PG-propyl polydimethylsiloxane thiosulfate copolymer sodium, PG-propyl thiosulfate sodium polydimethylsiloxane, tetrabutoxypropyltrisiloxane.
[0229] According to specific embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise silicone oils selected from the group consisting of: polydimethylsiloxane, amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, PEG-polydimethylsiloxane, or mixtures or associative compounds thereof.
[0230] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 3 pbw of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly less than 2 pbw, preferably less than 1 pbw.
[0231] According to this embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be substantially free of silicone oil, that is, from 0 to less than 0.1 pbw of silicone oil / 100 pbw of the composition, for example, free of silicone oil, that is, 0 pbw of silicone oil / 100 pbw of the composition.
[0232] The compositions of the present invention are used in a manner known in the art, for example, in the case of a cleanser or shampoo, by applying the cleanser or shampoo to the skin and / or hair and optionally rinsing the cleanser or shampoo off the skin and / or hair with water.
[0233] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the composition of the present invention may have a pH between 4 and 11, for example between 4 and 6.
[0234] According to any of the embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention can be prepared using concentrated, flowable compositions.
[0235] The present invention also relates to concentrates suitable for preparing the compositions of the present invention.
[0236] Concentrates containing mixtures of surfactants and / or conditioners and / or solubilizers are advantageous because their use reduces the need to transport multiple individual components.
[0237] Personal care compositions are typically prepared by mixing individual surfactants, solubilizers, and conditioning agents. These components may be supplied as concentrated solutions for dilution and / or combined by the formulator in appropriate ratios. This invention covers any concentrates intended to be used as components in the preparation of the compositions of this invention, and particularly concentrates containing a defined level of water (which is more advantageous from a cost and environmental perspective).
[0238] According to one embodiment, the present invention also covers any concentrates that can be used to prepare the compositions of the present invention.
[0239] For example, the present invention relates to a concentrate C1 containing at least the nonionic solubilizer and the sulfobetaine surfactant of the present invention as described above. It may be, for example, a concentrate C1' composed of the nonionic solubilizer and the sulfobetaine surfactant (e.g., hydroxysulfobetaine) of the present invention as described above.
[0240] The present invention also relates to concentrate C2 containing at least the nonionic surfactant of the present invention as described above, the sulfobetaine surfactant of the present invention as described above, and the taurine surfactant of the present invention as described above.
[0241] It can be, for example, a concentrate C2' composed of the nonionic surfactants of the present invention as described above (e.g., alkanolamide surfactants), the sulfobetaine surfactants of the present invention as described above (e.g., hydroxysulfobetaine), and the taurine surfactants as described above (e.g., methylcocoyl taurine or methyloleoyl taurine, especially methyloleoyl taurine).
[0242] The present invention also covers the use of any one of concentrates C1, C1', C2 and / or C2' in preparing the compositions of the present invention.
[0243] The viscosity of the composition of the present invention is satisfactory.
[0244] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may further comprise a thickener.
[0245] According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention may contain an additional thickener of less than 5 pwb.
[0246] In particular, the compositions of the present invention may contain one or more polymeric thickeners in amounts less than 5 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition, such as less than 3 pbw, less than 2 pbw, or less than 1 pbw.
[0247] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may be substantially free of polymeric thickeners, i.e., from 0 to less than 0.1 pbw of polymeric thickener per 100 pbw of the composition, for example, free of polymeric thickeners, i.e., 0 pbw of polymeric thickener per 100 pbw of the composition.
[0248] Stabilizers such as Carbopol-type crosslinked acrylic polymers are often used to thicken and stabilize compositions containing vegetable oils. However, these stabilizers can have the disadvantage of reducing the performance of cosmetic products. For example, in the case of shampoos, the use of such synthetic polymers can make hair more burdened (charged) and coarser.
[0249] Therefore, according to any embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises less than 5 pbw of crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate (e.g., crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer) relative to the total weight of the composition, for example less than 3 pbw, for example less than 2 pbw, for example less than 1 pbw, or even does not contain (i.e., 0 pbw) crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate (e.g., crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer).
[0250] Example The invention will now be described in further detail by way of the following non-limiting examples, wherein the abbreviations have their usual meaning in the art. Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius (°C), and other parameters are expressed in their respective current units. The amount of water expressed as “qs” is intended to be “the amount required to achieve 100%”.
[0251] Evaluation methods Sensory evaluation, half-head test of the wig A prosthetic head made of Caucasian hair bleached for 4 hours was used for sensory evaluation. Hair length: 40cm. It was purchased from Kerling International Haarfabik GmbH, Donaustr. 7, D-71522Backnang-Waldrems, Germany.
[0252] Sensory analysis was conducted by a team of trained experts according to the following standardized protocol.
[0253] Standard pre-wash procedure: Wet the mannequin head under running tap water at 35°C for 1 minute. Use a standard shampoo containing 10 wt.% active sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLE2S) and 2 wt.% active cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) (pH=5). Massage 12 ml of this standard shampoo into the hair for 90 seconds. Then rinse the mannequin head under running tap water at 35°C for 3 minutes. Next, comb the mannequin head with a medium-tooth comb until the hair is detangled. Allow the mannequin head to air dry at room temperature.
[0254] Shampoo Application and Evaluation: Wet the stylist under running tap water at 35°C for 1 minute. Then divide the hair into two equal sections: add 6 ml of shampoo to each side of the stylist and massage into the hair for 90 seconds. Evaluate foam performance at this stage: instant foam, foam volume, and foam texture. Then rinse each side of the stylist under running tap water at 35°C for 90 seconds. During this stage, evaluate the ease of rinsing and the feel (softness) of the hair. While wet, evaluate the ease of tangle removal (using a medium-tooth comb), the feel of the hair, and conditioning from root to tip. Then dry each side of the stylist using a hairdryer (maximum airflow and temperature). Measure the drying time at this stage. Then comb each side of the hair (using a medium-tooth comb) and evaluate the feel, cleanliness, lightness, manageability, shine, and softness of the hair.
[0255] Viscosity measurement The viscosity of each shampoo formulation was measured using a Brookfield Viscosimeter (Model DV-I) with rotor #4 at 10 rpm for 24 hours in a temperature-controlled chamber (21°C ± 3°C). Viscosity values were always obtained after a 1-minute settling time.
[0256] Transmittance measurement Transparency was determined by transmittance values. A Perkin Elmer Lambda Bio 40UV-Vis absorption spectrophotometer was used. The sample was placed in a 2.5 ml volume, 1 cm wide disposable PS cuvette. The intensity of light passing through the sample and through blank distilled water was measured at 600 nm. The % transmittance was then calculated.
[0257] Prepare the following cleaning compositions. Raw materials used are identified by their INCI names and / or trademark names. All ingredients are expressed as an active weight percentage of the total formulation.
[0258] Example 1: Preparation 1 Comparison of formulation A Rhodapex ESB30 HA1 (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate) 4.64 4.64 Rhodapon LS94 RPB (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate) 4.36 4.36 Mackam CBS 50G E (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysulfobetaine) 2.13 0 Mackam 50 ULB (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 0 2.13 Geropon T-77 (Sodium Methyloleoyl Taurate) 2.5 2.5 Alkamuls PEG 16 CO (PEG 16 CO oleate) 0.9 0.9 Mackamide CPA (MIPA) 1.5 1.5 Citric acid (50% active aqueous solution) 0.13 0.13 Coconut oil (coconut tree oil) 0.63 0.63 Jaguar LS (Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride) 0.5 0.5 Spectrastat (octyl ethylene glycol, octyl oxy oxime, glycerol) 1 1 Aleurites Moluccana seed oil 0.27 0.27 spices 0.4 0.4 Panthenol 0.2 0.2 Tocopherol 0.05 0.05 Deionized water Reaching 100 Reaching 100 pH 5 5 Brinell viscosity (cP) at 10 rpm and rotor 4 Between 3,000 and 4,000 Between 1,500 and 2,500 % transmittance 91 82.8 Preparation plan In a beaker, combine the melted coconut oil (approximately 30°C) with the bitter elm oil and Alkamuls PEG 16 CO, and finally add the tocopherol. Let it cool with gentle stirring. Add the flavoring and continue stirring.
[0259] In a second beaker, heat 8.40 parts water and Geropon T-77 at 75°C with stirring for 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature with gentle stirring to compensate for moisture evaporation.
[0260] In another beaker, heat 1.5 parts of coconut oleamide MIPA and 7.51 parts of water at 65°C with stirring until homogeneous. Then add 1.88 parts of Rhodapon LS94 RPB. When homogeneous, stop heating and allow the mixture to cool to 25°C–30°C with stirring to compensate for moisture evaporation.
[0261] In the main tank, disperse Jaguar® LS in 56.27 parts of water. Add 0.05 parts of 50 wt% active citric acid solution. Add Mackam CBS 50GE (or Mackam 50 ULB) and mix at 100 rpm for 10 min. Add 2.71 parts of Rhodapon LS 94 RPB with stirring, then add Rhodapex ESB 30 HA1 until homogeneous. Mix at 100 rpm for 10 min. Add the cocoamide MIPA / Rhodapon LS 94 RPB blend and continue mixing at 100 rpm for 15 min. Add Spectrastat. Adjust the pH with citric acid solution (target pH 4.8). Add the oil / Alkamuls PEG 16 CO blend with stirring. Mix at 100 rpm for 20 min, then add panthenol. Finally, add the Geropon T-77 solution and stir at 120 rpm for 45 min. Adjust the pH to 5 if necessary.
[0262] performance Formulation 1 (which comprises a specific combination of the surfactants of the present invention (one of which is a taurine surfactant and the other of which is a sulfobetaine surfactant) together with a specific solubilizer of the present invention) makes it possible to formulate high amounts of vegetable oil (total: 0.9 pbw of vegetable oil) while achieving an acceptable trade-off between the following properties: viscosity of the composition, foaming properties and conditioning of the target area, while maintaining transparency (% transmittance > 85%).
[0263] Sensory evaluation confirmed that formulation 1 exhibited very good conditioning properties, especially in terms of easy untangling, softness and gloss.
[0264] Comparative formulation A, which contains conventional betaine instead of the sulfobetaine required in this invention, is opaque (% transmittance < 85%). It also has a lower viscosity. Furthermore, during sensory evaluation, comparative formulation A was found to be less soft in both wet and dry states compared to formulation 1 of this invention.
[0265] Example 2: Preparation 1 Preparation 2 Rhodapex ESB30 HA1 (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate) 4.64 4.64 Rhodapon LS94 RPB (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate) 4.36 4.36 Mackam CBS 50G E (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysulfobetaine) 2.13 2.13 Geropon T-77 (Sodium Methyloleoyl Taurate) 2.5 2.5 Alkamuls PEG 16 CO (PEG 16 CO oleate) 0.9 0.9 Mackamide CPA (MIPA) 1.5 1.5 Citric acid (50% active aqueous solution) 0.13 0.13 Coconut oil (coconut tree oil) 0.63 0.63 Jaguar LS (Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride) 0.5 0 Spectrastat (octyl ethylene glycol, octyl oxy oxime, glycerol) 1 1 Aleurites Moluccana seed oil 0.27 0.27 spices 0.4 0.4 Panthenol 0.2 0.2 Tocopherol 0.05 0.05 Deionized water Reaching 100 Reaching 100 pH 5 5 Brinell viscosity (cP) at 10 rpm and rotor 4 Between 3,000 and 4,000 Between 2,000 and 3,000 % transmittance 91 96.8 Preparation plan In a beaker, combine the melted coconut oil (approximately 30°C) with the bitter elm oil and Alkamuls PEG 16 CO, and finally add the tocopherol. Let it cool with gentle stirring. Add the flavoring and continue stirring.
[0266] In a second beaker, heat 8.40 parts water and Geropon T-77 at 75°C with stirring for 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature with gentle stirring to compensate for moisture evaporation.
[0267] In another beaker, heat 1.5 parts of coconut oleamide MIPA and 7.51 parts of water at 65°C with stirring until homogeneous. Then add 1.88 parts of Rhodapon LS94 RPB. When homogeneous, stop heating and allow the mixture to cool to 25°C–30°C with stirring to compensate for moisture evaporation.
[0268] In the main tank, disperse Jaguar® LS in 56.27 parts of water. Add 0.05 parts of 50 wt% active citric acid solution. This step is not required for formulations without guar gum. Add Mackam CBS 50G E and mix at 100 rpm for 10 min. Add 2.71 parts of Rhodapon LS 94 RPB with stirring, then add Rhodapex ESB 30 HA1 until homogeneous. Mix at 100 rpm for 10 min. Add the cocoamide MIPA / Rhodapon LS 94 RPB blend and continue mixing at 100 rpm for 15 min. Add Spectrastat. Adjust the pH with citric acid solution (target pH 4.8).
[0269] Add the oil / Alkamuls PEG 16 CO blend with stirring. Mix at 100 rpm for 20 min, then add panthenol. Finally, add the Geropent T-77 solution and stir at 120 rpm for 45 min. Adjust the pH to 5 if necessary.
[0270] performance Formulation 1 (which comprises a specific combination of the surfactants of the present invention (one of which is a taurine surfactant and the other of which is a sulfobetaine surfactant) together with a specific solubilizer of the present invention, and further comprises an additional conditioning agent (Jaguar LS)) makes it possible to formulate high amounts of vegetable oil (total: 0.9 pbw of vegetable oil) while achieving an acceptable trade-off between the following properties: viscosity of the composition, foaming properties and conditioning of the target area, while maintaining transparency (% transmittance > 85%).
[0271] Compared to formulation 2 (which also includes a specific combination of the surfactants of the present invention along with specific solubilizers of the present invention, but does not include any additional conditioning agents), formulation 1 of the present invention exhibits higher viscosity while maintaining acceptable transparency (% transmittance > 85%).
[0272] Sensory evaluation confirmed that formulation 1 exhibited excellent conditioning properties, particularly in terms of detangling, softening, and gloss. Compared to formulation 2, formulation 1 also provided more even care from root to tip when used.
[0273] Example 3: Preparation plan In a beaker, combine the melted coconut oil (approximately 30°C) with the bitter elm oil and Alkamuls PEG 16 CO, and finally add the tocopherol. Let it cool with gentle stirring. Add the flavoring and continue stirring.
[0274] In a second beaker, heat 8.40 parts water and Geropon TC-77 at 75°C with stirring for 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature with gentle stirring to compensate for water evaporation. This step is not required for Geropon TC-42.
[0275] In another beaker, heat 1.5 parts of coconut oleamide MIPA and 7.51 parts of water at 65°C with stirring until homogeneous. Then add 1.88 parts of Rhodapon LS94 RPB. When homogeneous, stop heating and allow the mixture to cool to 25°C–30°C with stirring to compensate for moisture evaporation.
[0276] Disperse Jaguar® LS in 56.27 parts of water in the main tank. Add 0.05 parts of 50 wt% active citric acid solution. Add Mackam CBS 50GE and mix at 100 rpm for 10 min.
[0277] Add 2.71 parts of Rhodapon LS 94 RPB with stirring, then add Rhodapex ESB 30 HA1 until homogeneous. Mix at 100 rpm for 10 min. Add the cocamide MIPA / Rhodapon LS 94 RPB blend and continue mixing at 100 rpm for 15 min. Add Spectrastat. Adjust the pH with citric acid solution (target pH 4.8). Add the oil / Alkamuls PEG 16 CO blend with stirring. Mix at 100 rpm for 20 min, then add panthenol. Finally, add Geropent T-77 solution (or Geropent TC-42) and stir at 120 rpm for 45 min. Adjust the pH to 5.
[0278] performance Formulation 1 (which comprises a specific combination of the surfactants of the present invention (one of which is a taurine surfactant and the other of which is a sulfobetaine surfactant) together with a specific solubilizer of the present invention) makes it possible to formulate high amounts of vegetable oil (total: 0.9 pbw of vegetable oil) while achieving an acceptable trade-off between the following properties: viscosity of the composition, foaming properties and conditioning of the target area, while maintaining transparency (% transmittance > 85%).
[0279] Compared to formulation 3 (which includes methylcocoyl taurate instead of methyloleoyl taurate), formulation 1 of the present invention exhibits higher viscosity while maintaining acceptable transparency (% transmittance > 85%).
[0280] Sensory evaluation confirmed that formulations 1 and 2 exhibited very good conditioning properties, especially in terms of detangling, softness, and gloss.
[0281] Example 4: Preparation 1 Preparation 4 Rhodapex ESB30 HA1 (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate) 4.64 4.64 Rhodapon LS94 RPB (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate) 4.36 4.36 Mackam CBS 50G E (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysulfobetaine) 2.13 2.13 Geropon T-77 (Sodium Methyloleoyl Taurate) 2.5 2.5 Alkamuls PEG 16 CO (PEG 16 CO oleate) 0.9 0 Marlowet CG (PEG-18 castor oil dioleate) 0 0.9 Mackamide CPA (MIPA) 1.5 1.5 Citric acid (50% active aqueous solution) 0.13 0.13 Coconut oil (coconut tree oil) 0.63 0.63 Jaguar LS (Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride) 0.5 0.5 Spectrastat (octyl ethylene glycol, octyl oxy oxime, glycerol) 1 1 Aleurites Moluccana seed oil 0.27 0.27 spices 0.4 0.4 Panthenol 0.2 0.2 Tocopherol 0.05 0.05 Deionized water Reaching 100 Reaching 100 pH 5 5 Brinell viscosity (cP) at 10 rpm and rotor 4 Between 3,000 and 5,000 Between 3,000 and 5,000 % transmittance 91 91.5 Preparation plan In a beaker, combine melted coconut oil (approximately 30°C) with bitter melon oil and Alkamuls PEG 16 CO (or Marlowet CG or Alkamuls CRH / 40-C, respectively), and finally add tocopherol. Cool with gentle stirring. Add flavoring and continue stirring.
[0282] In a second beaker, heat 8.40 parts water and Geropon T-77 at 75°C with stirring for 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature with gentle stirring to compensate for moisture evaporation.
[0283] In another beaker, heat 1.5 parts of coconut oleamide MIPA and 7.51 parts of water at 65°C with stirring until homogeneous. Then add 1.88 parts of Rhodapon LS94 RPB. When homogeneous, stop heating and allow the mixture to cool to 25°C–30°C with stirring to compensate for moisture evaporation.
[0284] Disperse Jaguar® LS in 56.27 parts of water in the main tank. Add 0.05 parts of 50 wt% active citric acid solution. Add Mackam CBS 50GE and mix at 100 rpm for 10 min.
[0285] Add 2.71 parts of Rhodapon LS 94 RPB with stirring, then add Rhodapex ESB 30 HA1 until homogeneous. Mix at 100 rpm for 10 min. Add the cocamide MIPA / Rhodapon LS 94 RPB blend and continue mixing at 100 rpm for 15 min. Add Spectrastat. Adjust the pH with citric acid solution (target pH 4.8). Add the oil / Alkamuls PEG 16 CO blend with stirring. Mix at 100 rpm for 20 min, then add panthenol. Finally, add Geropent T-77 solution and stir at 120 rpm for 45 min. Adjust the pH to 5.
[0286] performance Formulations 1 and 4 (which include specific combinations of the surfactants of the present invention (one of which is a taurine surfactant and the other of which is a sulfobetaine surfactant) together with the specific solubilizers of the present invention (PEG-16 CO oleate or PEG-18 castor oil dioleate)) make it possible to formulate high amounts of vegetable oil (total: 0.9 pbw of vegetable oil) while achieving an acceptable trade-off between the following properties: viscosity of the composition, foaming properties and conditioning of the target area, while maintaining transparency (% transmittance > 85%).
[0287] During sensory evaluation, compared to formulation 1, formulation 4 resulted in less hair feel and lower smoothness during rinsing, but other properties remained the same. The same level of softness was achieved.
[0288] Example 5: Seven expert panel members (one evaluation per expert panel member) also conducted a sensory evaluation of formulation 1 on the skin.
[0289] Establish sensory distributions according to standard NF ISO 13299. Regularly train expert team members and conduct inspections using standard NF ISO 8586.
[0290] Good application performance and adequate foam volume were observed during product application. A bare-feel feel and easy rinsing were confirmed during the rinsing phase.
[0291] Regarding the skin feel after application, it experienced good moisturization 2 minutes after drying.
[0292] All these examples demonstrate that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to formulate relatively high amounts of vegetable oil while simultaneously achieving an acceptable trade-off between the viscosity, foaming properties, and conditioning of the target area of the composition, while maintaining transparency.
Claims
1. A cosmetic cleansing composition, the composition comprising at least: a) One or more vegetable oils in an amount of at least 0.3 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition. b) A surfactant system comprising at least one sulfobetaine surfactant and a taurine surfactant, ranging from about 2 pbw to about 40 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition, and c) A nonionic solubilizer of at least 0.1 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the nonionic solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is a saturated or unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the sulfobetaine surfactant has the following formula: or Where m is 2 or 3, or the sulfobetaine surfactant is –(CH2)3SO3 - The following are variations of these expressions that are replaced by: Where R 1 It is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, and R 2 and R 3 Each is independently an alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, or carboxyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the sulfobetaine surfactant has the following formula: Where R 1 It is a fatty acid residue, and R 2 and R 3 Each is an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl.
4. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the sulfobetaine surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 pbw to 10 pbw, for example from 0.5 pbw to 9 pbw, for example from 1 pbw to 8 pbw, for example from 1.5 pbw to 7 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the taurine surfactant is a surfactant having the formula R a CON(CH3)CH2CH2SO3X a methyl alkyl taurine salts, wherein R a It is a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 6 to 30, for example 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and X a It is a balanced ion.
6. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the taurine surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 pbw to 10 pbw, for example from 0.5 pbw to 8 pbw, for example from 1 pbw to 6 pbw, for example from 1.5 pbw to 5 pbw relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is an unsaturated hydroxylated (C8-C22) fatty acid.
8. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of a (C2-C4) alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the number of (C2-C4) epoxide units is preferably in the range of 5 to 100, for example, 5 to 50.
9. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solubilizer is a monoalkyl or polyalkyl or alkenyl ester of an alkoxylated fatty acid, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl ester is partially derived from a fatty acid having from about 8 to about 40 carbon atoms, for example from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example from about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms.
10. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one conditioning agent, such as a cationic or amphoteric conditioning agent.
11. The composition of any one of the preceding claims further comprises at least one additional oil, preferably selected from silicone oil and mineral oil.
12. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the vegetable oil and the solubilizer is in the range of 1:5 to 5:1, for example from 1:4 to 4:1, for example from 1:3 to 3:1, for example from 1:2 to 2:
1.
13. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, comprising an electrolyte, particularly an added salt, of less than 3 pbw, for example less than 2 pbw, or for example less than 1 pbw, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Use of the composition as defined in any of the preceding claims for simultaneously caring for and washing keratin materials, such as hair and skin.