Pattern making method of front-connected-sleeve and back-dropped-rotator-sleeve, pattern and jacket

Abstract

The invention discloses a pattern making method of a front-connected-sleeve and back-dropped-rotator sleeve, a pattern and a jacket in the technical field of garment pattern making, the pattern comprises a front piece and a back piece, and sleeve width lines, midperpendicular lines, sleeve elbow lines, sleeve middle lines, sleeve bottom lines and cuff lines are arranged on the basic pattern; setting a sleeve datum point and an offset control point respectively on the front sleeve width line and the rear sleeve width line to form a front sleeve structure control line and a rear sleeve structure control line; the structure control line is translated, and a half-sleeve frame structure is constructed; a front armhole arc is obtained, a front connecting sleeve structure arc is formed through symmetrical transformation, and meanwhile a front sleeve sewing line structure and a rear sleeve sewing line structure are formed; extracting a sleeve piece structure and recombining the sleeve piece; adjusting the length of the garment body, the length of the side seam and the placement distribution of the armholes so as to complete the pattern making of the whole pattern of the front-connected-sleeve and back-dropped-rotator-sleeve; according to the invention, the front piece sleeve connecting structure and the rear piece shoulder falling sleeve structure can be coordinated and matched, so that the clothes body structure is kept balanced, and the smoothness of the sleeve parts is improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a pattern-making method, pattern, and garment for a front-attached sleeve and back-dropped shoulder sleeve, belonging to the field of garment pattern-making technology. Background Technology

[0002] In the process of clothing design and production, pattern making is a crucial technical step that transforms design ideas into actual production patterns. It directly affects the appearance, structural rationality, and wearing comfort of clothing.

[0003] Among existing garment sleeve types, raglan sleeves and dropped shoulder sleeves are two common forms. A raglan sleeve typically refers to a sleeve that is connected to the front panel or the entire garment body to form a single structure. In actual pattern making, due to the significant differences in structural form and allowance between the front raglan sleeve and the back dropped shoulder sleeve, directly combining the two can easily lead to various structural problems. For example, in a front raglan sleeve, the sleeve cap is integrated with the garment body structure, while in a back dropped shoulder sleeve, the sleeve cap position is relatively lower. If not handled properly, this can easily lead to uneven stress on the front and back of the garment, resulting in the garment riding up in the front or back. At the same time, during the matching of the sleeve cap curve and the armhole curve, problems such as sleeve cap bulging, uneven armhole allowance, or sleeves not being flat in a three-dimensional state may occur. These problems not only affect the overall shape of the garment but also reduce the garment's wearing comfort and structural stability.

[0004] Furthermore, existing garment pattern-making methods are mostly designed for single sleeve structures, lacking systematic guidance for combined structures such as front raglan sleeves and back drop-shoulder sleeves. In practice, pattern makers often rely on experience to repeatedly adjust sleeve pieces, resulting in low pattern-making efficiency and difficulty in ensuring structural stability. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of this invention is to overcome the problems that easily occur when combining the front raglan sleeve structure with the back drop shoulder sleeve structure, such as imbalance of the garment structure, mismatch of sleeve cap curves, and unevenness of the sleeve pieces in a planar or three-dimensional state.

[0006] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention is implemented using the following technical solution: Firstly, a pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve is provided, including the following steps: Based on the requirements of clothing design, draw the dropped shoulder sleeve structure to form a basic paper pattern including the front piece and the back piece. The basic paper pattern includes the sleeve width line, the center plump line, the elbow line, the sleeve center line, the sleeve bottom line, and the cuff line. Obtain the front sleeve width line and the back sleeve width line on the front piece and the back piece respectively; draw perpendicular lines from the midpoint of the front sleeve width line and the midpoint of the back sleeve width line respectively to form the front center perpendicular line and the back center perpendicular line. The front center perpendicular line and the back center perpendicular line intersect with the front armhole line and the back armhole line respectively to form the sleeve reference point, and offset control points are set at the elbow line and the cuff line. The front sleeve structure control line and the back sleeve structure control line are formed by connecting the sleeve reference point and the offset control point. The front sleeve structural control line is translated so that it forms new structural control points with the sleeve center line and the cuff line, respectively. Using the translated structural control line as a reference, draw a perpendicular line and make it intersect with the extension lines of the front center perpendicular line and the rear center perpendicular line. Connect the intersection point with the center perpendicular line to construct the half-sleeve frame structure. Obtain the front armhole curve and form a new front sleeve cap curve through symmetrical transformation. Then, symmetrically process the front sleeve cap curve with the front center vertical line as the axis of symmetry to form the front raglan sleeve structure curve. The front sleeve structure control line is translated to form a front sleeve seam structure, wherein a first sleeve front sleeve seam and a second sleeve front sleeve seam are formed respectively. The back sleeve cap arc is symmetrically treated with the central vertical line as the axis of symmetry, and multiple back sleeve seam structures are formed by translating the back sleeve structure control line, including the first back sleeve seam and the second back sleeve seam. The sleeve structure is obtained and the first and second sleeve pieces are extracted. The sleeve pieces are divided vertically and horizontally by dividing lines, and the sleeve pieces are recombined by rotating and coinciding and extending the edge lines to form a new second sleeve structure. Smooth the sleeve cap curve of the sleeve piece, and draw the front and back sleeve seam lines and the required shaping lines; The front raglan sleeve structure and the back drop shoulder sleeve structure are combined, and the length, side seam length and armhole allowance are adjusted to complete the overall pattern making of the front raglan sleeve and back drop shoulder sleeve.

[0007] Furthermore, the front center perpendicular line intersects with the front armhole line to form point A, and at the front sleeve elbow line, point B is formed by shifting the front center perpendicular line inward by 1cm, and at the front cuff line, point C is formed by shifting the front center perpendicular line outward by 1cm. Connecting points A, B, and C forms the front sleeve structure control line. The back center perpendicular line intersects with the back armhole line to form point D. At the back sleeve elbow line, point E is formed by shifting the back center perpendicular line inward by 1.2cm. At the back cuff line, point F is formed by shifting the back center perpendicular line inward by 5.5cm. Connecting points D, E, and F forms the back sleeve structure control line.

[0008] Furthermore, the line connecting BC is translated so that the intersection of point B and the center sleeve line forms point b, and the intersection of point B and the front cuff line forms point c.

[0009] Furthermore, the line connecting b and c is perpendicular to the front perpendicular line at point c, forming point T. The line connecting c and T is extended and intersects the extension of the rear perpendicular line, forming point U. The half-sleeve frame structure is constructed by connecting U and T and combining the front and rear perpendicular lines.

[0010] Furthermore, obtain the front armhole arc GH, and draw a circle with H as the center and HG as the radius, intersecting the front sleeve bottom line to form point M. Connect G and M to form line segment GM; obtain the midpoint Q of GM and connect HQ. Use HQ as the symmetry line to symmetrically ...

[0011] Furthermore, line segment ABC is translated to form line segment HJK, and then translated further to form line segment hjk, where HJK serves as the first sleeve front seam and hjk serves as the second sleeve front seam.

[0012] Furthermore, using the perpendicular bisector as the symmetrical line, obtain the symmetrical arc po of arc PO, and translate line segment DEF inward by 1cm to form line segments nxv and NXV, where NXV serves as the back sleeve seam of the first sleeve and nxv serves as the back sleeve seam of the second sleeve.

[0013] Furthermore, obtaining the second sleeve structure includes: the first sleeve is divided into upper and lower parts by line segment xj, and into left and right parts by line po; point o and point m are overlapped to form the upper part structure of the second sleeve; line segment Vv is extended and intersects with the back cuff line to form point S, and the lower part structure of the second sleeve is formed by overlapping Sc.

[0014] Secondly, a garment pattern structure with a front raglan sleeve and a back drop shoulder is provided, which is made using the pattern-making method for a front raglan sleeve and a back drop shoulder as described in the first aspect. The pattern includes a front piece structure with a front raglan sleeve and a back piece structure with a back drop shoulder that is spliced ​​thereto.

[0015] Thirdly, a garment with a front raglan sleeve and a back drop shoulder is provided, which is cut and sewn using the garment pattern structure of the front raglan sleeve and back drop shoulder as described in the second aspect.

[0016] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects achieved by the present invention are as follows: This invention constructs a front center plumb line and a back center plumb line on a basic paper pattern, and combines the front sleeve structure control line and the back sleeve structure control line to construct a half-sleeve frame structure. At the same time, the front armhole arc is symmetrically transformed to form the front raglan sleeve structure arc, and the front sleeve seam structure and the back sleeve seam structure are formed by translation. After extracting the sleeve pieces, the sleeve pieces are divided and reassembled. The front raglan sleeve structure and the back drop shoulder sleeve structure are spliced ​​together and the garment length, side seam length, and armhole allowance distribution are adjusted. This allows the front raglan sleeve structure and the back drop shoulder sleeve structure to form a coordinated matching relationship when combined, keeping the garment structure balanced. At the same time, it makes the transition of the sleeve cap arc smoother, which is beneficial to improving the flatness of the sleeve pieces in both planar and three-dimensional states, thereby improving the comfort of wearing the garment. Attached Figure Description

[0017] Figure 1 The diagram shown is a split view of a front-attached sleeve and back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 2 The diagram shown is a schematic diagram of the pattern division for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 3 The diagram shown is a schematic diagram of the point division of a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 4 The diagram shown is a schematic representation of the second sleeve piece division of a front-attached sleeve and back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 5 The diagram shown is a schematic diagram of the point division of the second sleeve piece of a front-attached sleeve and back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 6 The diagram shows the sewing process for the sleeve cap curve of a front-attached sleeve and back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 1 ; Figure 7 The diagram shows the sewing process for the sleeve cap curve of a front-attached sleeve and back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 2 ; Figure 8 The diagram shows the sewing process for the sleeve cap curve of a front-attached sleeve and back-dropped shoulder sleeve provided by the present invention. Figure 3 . Detailed Implementation

[0018] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. The following embodiments are only used to more clearly illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, and should not be used to limit the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0019] In the description of this invention, it should be noted that, unless otherwise explicitly specified and limited, the terms "installation," "connection," and "linking" should be interpreted broadly. For example, they can refer to a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral connection; they can refer to a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; they can refer to a direct connection or an indirect connection through an intermediate medium; and they can refer to the internal connection of two components. Those skilled in the art will understand the specific meaning of the above terms in this invention based on the specific circumstances.

[0020] like Figure 1 As shown, this embodiment provides a pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve. Based on garment design requirements, a drop-shoulder sleeve structure is drawn. On the basis of a straight-body prototype, a drop-shoulder sleeve pattern is drawn according to the design style, forming a basic paper pattern including a front piece and a back piece. The basic paper pattern includes the sleeve width line, center sag line, elbow line, sleeve center line, sleeve bottom line, and cuff line.

[0021] like Figure 2 As shown, the front sleeve width line and back sleeve width line are obtained on the front and back pieces respectively. Perpendicular lines are drawn from the midpoints of the front and back sleeve width lines to form the front center perpendicular line and the back center perpendicular line. The front center perpendicular line intersects the front armhole line to form point A. Point B is formed at the front sleeve elbow line by shifting the front center perpendicular line inward by 1 cm, and point C is formed at the front cuff line by shifting the front center perpendicular line outward by 1 cm. Connecting points A, B, and C forms the front sleeve structure control line.

[0022] The back center perpendicular line intersects with the back armhole line to form point D. At the back sleeve elbow line, point E is formed by shifting the back center perpendicular line inward by 1.2cm. At the back cuff line, point F is formed by shifting the back center perpendicular line inward by 5.5cm. The back sleeve structure control line is formed by connecting points D, E, and F.

[0023] Based on this, the control line BC of the front sleeve structure is translated so that the intersection of point B and the sleeve center line forms point b, and the intersection of the extended BC and the front cuff line forms point c. Based on the line connecting b and c, a perpendicular line is drawn at point c so that it intersects the front center perpendicular line to form point T. Then, c is connected to T and extended so that it intersects the extension of the back center perpendicular line to form point U. By connecting U and T, and combining the front center perpendicular line and the back center perpendicular line, the half-sleeve frame structure is constructed to determine the basic outline relationship of the sleeve piece.

[0024] Furthermore, such as Figure 3As shown, obtain the front armhole arc GH, and draw a circle with H as the center and HG as the radius. This arc intersects the bottom line of the front sleeve to form point M. Then connect G and M to form line segment GM. Obtain the midpoint Q of line segment GM and connect HQ. Use HQ as the symmetry line to symmetrically ...

[0025] After forming the front sleeve structure, line segment ABC is translated to form line segment HJK, and then translated further to form line segment hjk. Line segment HJK serves as the front sleeve seam of the first sleeve, and line segment hjk serves as the front sleeve seam of the second sleeve.

[0026] For the back sleeve structure, the symmetrical arc po of arc PO is obtained by taking the back center perpendicular line as the symmetrical line, and the line segment DEF is translated inward by 1cm to form line segments nxv and NXV, where NXV is used as the back sleeve seam of the first sleeve and nxv is used as the back sleeve seam of the second sleeve.

[0027] like Figure 4 and Figure 5 As shown, the sleeve structure is obtained, and the first sleeve piece and the second sleeve piece are extracted. Specifically, the first sleeve piece is divided into upper and lower parts by line segment xj, and into left and right parts by line po. Then, point o and point m are coincident to form the upper part structure of the second sleeve piece. Then, line segment Vv is extended and intersected with the back cuff line to form point S. By coinciding with Sc, the lower part structure of the second sleeve piece is formed.

[0028] like Figure 6 , Figure 7 and Figure 8 As shown, after completing the sleeve structure, the sleeve cap curve is smoothed, and the front and back sleeve seam lines and the required shaping lines are drawn to ensure that the sleeve cap curve is smooth and meets the design requirements.

[0029] Finally, the front raglan sleeve structure and the back drop shoulder sleeve structure are joined together, and the lengths of the front and back pieces, the length of the side seams, and the armhole allowance are adjusted according to the structure of the garment body to achieve an overall balance of the garment body, thus completing the overall pattern making of the front raglan sleeve and the back drop shoulder sleeve.

[0030] In this embodiment, a garment pattern structure with a front raglan sleeve and a back drop shoulder is also provided. The pattern is made using the above-mentioned pattern-making method for the front raglan sleeve and the back drop shoulder. The pattern includes a front piece structure with a front raglan sleeve and a back piece structure with a back drop shoulder that is spliced ​​with it.

[0031] In this embodiment, a garment with a front raglan sleeve and a back drop shoulder is also provided, which is cut and sewn using the above-mentioned front raglan sleeve and back drop shoulder garment pattern structure.

[0032] The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention. It should be noted that for those skilled in the art, several improvements and modifications can be made without departing from the technical principles of the present invention, and these improvements and modifications should also be considered within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for pattern making of a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: Obtain a basic pattern consisting of a front piece and a back piece, the basic pattern including the sleeve width line, center plump line, elbow line, sleeve center line, sleeve bottom line, and cuff line; Obtain the front sleeve width line and the back sleeve width line on the front piece and the back piece respectively; draw perpendicular lines from the midpoint of the front sleeve width line and the midpoint of the back sleeve width line respectively to form the front center perpendicular line and the back center perpendicular line. The front center perpendicular line and the back center perpendicular line intersect with the front armhole line and the back armhole line respectively to form the sleeve reference point, and offset control points are set at the elbow line and the cuff line. The front sleeve structure control line and the back sleeve structure control line are formed by connecting the sleeve reference point and the offset control point. The front sleeve structural control line is shifted to form new structural control points with the sleeve center line and cuff line, respectively. Using the translated structural control line as a reference, draw a perpendicular line and make it intersect with the extension lines of the front and rear center perpendicular lines. Connect the intersection points with the center perpendicular line to construct the half-sleeve frame structure. Obtain the front armhole curve, and form a new front sleeve cap curve through symmetrical transformation. Use the front center vertical line as the axis of symmetry to symmetrically process the front sleeve cap curve to form the front raglan sleeve structure curve. The control line of the front sleeve structure is translated to form the front sleeve seam structure; Using the central vertical line as the axis of symmetry, the back sleeve cap arc is symmetrically treated, and the back sleeve seam structure is formed by translating the back sleeve structure control line. Obtain the sleeve structure and extract the first sleeve piece and the second sleeve piece, wherein the sleeve piece is divided by a dividing line and the sleeve piece is recombined to form a new second sleeve structure; Smooth the sleeve pieces and draw the front and back sleeve seam lines and shaping lines; The front raglan sleeve structure and the back drop shoulder sleeve structure are combined, and the length, side seam length and armhole allowance are adjusted to complete the overall pattern making of the front raglan sleeve and back drop shoulder sleeve.

2. The pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve according to claim 1, characterized in that, The front center perpendicular line intersects with the front armhole line to form point A, and at the front sleeve elbow line, point B is formed by shifting the front center perpendicular line inward by 1cm, and at the front cuff line, point C is formed by shifting the front center perpendicular line outward by 1cm. Connecting points A, B, and C forms the front sleeve structure control line. The back center perpendicular line intersects with the back armhole line to form point D. At the back sleeve elbow line, point E is formed by shifting the back center perpendicular line inward by 1.2cm. At the back cuff line, point F is formed by shifting the back center perpendicular line inward by 5.5cm. Connecting points D, E, and F forms the back sleeve structure control line.

3. The pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve according to claim 2, characterized in that, Translate the line BC so that the intersection of point B with the sleeve center line forms point b, and the intersection of B with the front cuff line forms point c.

4. The pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve according to claim 3, characterized in that, in, The line connecting b and c is perpendicular to the front perpendicular line at point c, forming point T. The line connecting c and T is extended and intersects the extension of the back perpendicular line, forming point U. The half-sleeve frame structure is constructed by connecting U and T and combining the front and back perpendicular lines.

5. The pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve according to claim 1, characterized in that, Obtain the front armhole arc GH, and draw a circle with H as the center and HG as the radius, intersecting the front armhole bottom line to form point M. Connect G and M to form line segment GM; obtain the midpoint Q of GM and connect HQ. Use HQ as the symmetry line to symmetrically ...

6. The pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve according to claim 2, characterized in that, The front sleeve seam structure includes a first sleeve front sleeve seam and a second sleeve front sleeve seam. Translate line segment ABC to form line segment HJK, and continue translating to form line segment hjk, where HJK serves as the first sleeve front seam and hjk serves as the second sleeve front seam.

7. The pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve according to claim 2, characterized in that, The back sleeve seam structure includes a first back sleeve seam and a second back sleeve seam. Then, using the perpendicular bisector as the symmetrical line, obtain the symmetrical arc po of arc PO, and translate line segment DEF inward by 1cm to form line segments nxv and NXV, where NXV is used as the back sleeve seam of the first sleeve and nxv is used as the back sleeve seam of the second sleeve.

8. The pattern-making method for a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve according to claim 1, characterized in that, Obtaining the second sleeve structure includes: the first sleeve is divided into upper and lower parts by line segment xj, and into left and right parts by line po; point o and point m are overlapped to form the upper part structure of the second sleeve; line segment Vv is extended and intersects with the back cuff line to form point S, and the lower part structure of the second sleeve is formed by overlapping Sc.

9. A garment pattern structure with a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder sleeve, characterized in that, The pattern is made using the pattern-making method for the front raglan sleeve and the back drop-shoulder sleeve as described in any one of claims 1-8, wherein the pattern includes a front raglan sleeve integrated front piece structure and a back drop-shoulder sleeve back piece structure spliced ​​thereto.

10. A garment with a front-attached sleeve and a back-dropped shoulder, characterized in that, The garment with a front raglan sleeve and a back drop shoulder is cut and sewn from the garment pattern structure of claim 9.

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