Weaving method of non-woven fabric

By setting the winding, twisting, and plying process parameters and using low-temperature spray stretching and setting, the problems of yarn damage during processing and insufficient yarn strength were solved, improving the comfort and stability of the fabric while maintaining a soft and supple feel and a unique visual effect.

CN122013405APending Publication Date: 2026-05-12HANGZHOU KAIXIU TEXTILE CO LTD
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202610449941.6
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2026-04-08
Publication Date
2026-05-12

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

In existing technologies, the raw yarn is prone to breakage during processing, and the high-temperature drying during stretching and setting damages the fiber structure, resulting in a stiffer fabric feel and reduced comfort.

Method used

By setting the winding, twisting, and plying process parameters, adopting a low-temperature spray tenter frame setting method, and coordinating with width control, the process is carried out using a specific model of textile equipment.

Benefits of technology

It solves the problems of yarn damage during processing and insufficient yarn strength, improves the comfort and dimensional stability of the fabric, extends its service life, and maintains a soft and smooth feel and a color-spun visual effect.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a weaving method of a non-abandoned fabric. The weaving method comprises the following steps: S1, separately performing spooling treatment on steam filature with specifications of 20 / 22D and 40 / 44D; s2, the 20 / 22D steam filature is twisted in the S direction, and the twist degree is 700 twists per meter; s3, plying two twisted 20 / 22D steam filature yarns to serve as warp yarns, and plying three 40 / 44D steam filature yarns to serve as weft yarns; s4, twisting the two plied 20 / 22D steam filature yarns into Z-direction first steam filature yarns with the twist of 800 twists per meter, and twisting the three plied 40 / 44D steam filature yarns in the S direction with the twist of 300 twists per meter; s5, performing warping treatment on the first steam filature; s6, the twisted 40 / 44D steam filature yarn is used as weft yarn and warp yarn for weaving, and the weaving weft density is 166.5 shuttles / cm; s7, the woven fabric is subjected to manual pattern cutting, and during pattern cutting, 0.7-1 cm beard edges are reserved on the two sides of a floating thread respectively; and S8, performing tentering setting on the cut fabric, wherein the setting width is 141.5 cm. The method has the beneficial effects that the problem of steam filature processing damage in the prior art is solved, and the comfort of the fabric is improved.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of fabric weaving technology, specifically to a method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics. Background Technology

[0002] Intangible cultural heritage fabrics refer to distinctive fabrics that integrate intangible cultural heritage techniques with fabric weaving processes. They not only possess the basic practical attributes of fabrics, but also carry cultural connotations and the essence of traditional techniques. Among them, intangible cultural heritage fabrics made from factory silk as the basic raw material naturally have good breathability.

[0003] In existing technologies, uniform speed and tension parameters are usually used to process yarns of different specifications, which can easily lead to breakage of fine yarns. Furthermore, the stretching and setting process often uses high-temperature drying, which can damage the protein structure of the fibers, resulting in a stiffer fabric feel and reduced comfort. Summary of the Invention

[0004] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, this application proposes a method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics. By setting the winding, twisting, and plying process parameters, the method effectively solves the problem of yarn damage in existing technologies. It also adopts a low-temperature spray tenter frame setting method, combined with width control, to improve the comfort of the fabric.

[0005] The following is the technical solution of the present invention: a method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics, comprising the following steps: S1. Winding process is performed on the 20 / 22D and 40 / 44D specifications of factory yarn respectively; S2. Twist the 20 / 22D factory yarn in the S direction to a twist of 700 twists / meter; S3. Two twisted 20 / 22D factory yarns are plied together as warp yarns, and three 40 / 44D factory yarns are plied together as weft yarns. S4. Twist the two 20 / 22D factory yarns after plying into a first factory yarn with a Z-direction twist of 800 twists / meter. Twist the three 40 / 44D factory yarns after plying into a S-direction twist of 300 twists / meter. S5. Perform warping treatment on the first batch of yarn; S6. Weaving is carried out using twisted 40 / 44D factory yarn as both weft and warp yarns, with a weft density of 166.5 shuttles / cm. S7. Manually cut the pattern on the woven fabric, leaving a 0.7-1cm fringed edge on each side of the pattern float when cutting the pattern; S8. The fabric after cutting is stretched and set, and the setting width is 141.5cm.

[0006] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in S1, the winding is performed by a GD001-145D type edged bobbin winding machine at a speed of 40-42 meters / minute, the tension of 20 / 22D factory yarn is controlled at 15-18 CN, and the tension of 40 / 44D factory yarn is controlled at 30-33 CN.

[0007] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in both S2 and S4, the twisting is performed using a 318 silk doubling machine.

[0008] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in S3, the strands are twisted and spun using a GD102 type untwisted spun yarn machine.

[0009] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in S5, warping is performed using an HF988C slitting and warping machine, with a total number of warp threads of 15072 and a warp beam width of 145cm.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in S6, the weaving is carried out by an R880 high-speed rapier loom, the head of which is a rectangular 5120 needle jacquard head, and the machine speed is 300 rpm.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in S8, spray stretching is performed using an HSST-0340 tenter frame.

[0012] The beneficial effects of this invention are: 1. In this invention, by setting the winding, twisting, and plying process parameters and using a specific type of textile equipment, the problems of yarn damage, insufficient yarn strength, and poor uniformity in the prior art are effectively solved. 2. In this invention, by controlling the weft density of the weaving and combining it with the standard for retaining the hand-cut fringes, the scarf fabric presents a unique visual effect similar to that of a colored spun fabric. 3. In this invention, a low-temperature spray stretching and setting method is adopted to avoid damage to silk fibers caused by high temperature. Combined with width control, this further improves the comfort and dimensional stability of the fabric and extends its service life. 4. In this invention, the fabric has a soft and smooth feel, the scarf fabric has a yarn-dyed effect, and the raw materials are medium-pricked and medium-length fiber yarn. After prickling, it does not shed or fall off, which improves the comfort and durability of the fabric. Attached Figure Description

[0013] Figure 1 This is a diagram illustrating the steps of the method of the present invention; Figure 2 This is a flowchart of the process of the present invention; Detailed Implementation To make the technical problems solved by the present invention, the technical solutions adopted, and the technical effects achieved clearer, the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0014] Example like Figure 1 and Figure 2 As shown, a method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics includes the following steps: S1. Winding process is performed on the 20 / 22D and 40 / 44D specifications of factory yarn respectively; S2. Twist the 20 / 22D factory yarn in the S direction to a twist of 700 twists / meter; S3. Two twisted 20 / 22D factory yarns are plied together as warp yarns, and three 40 / 44D factory yarns are plied together as weft yarns. S4. Twist the two 20 / 22D factory yarns after plying into a first factory yarn with a Z-direction twist of 800 twists / meter. Twist the three 40 / 44D factory yarns after plying into a S-direction twist of 300 twists / meter. S5. Perform warping treatment on the first batch of yarn; S6. Weaving is carried out using twisted 40 / 44D factory yarn as both weft and warp yarns, with a weft density of 166.5 shuttles / cm. S7. Manually cut the pattern on the woven fabric, leaving a 0.7-1cm fringed edge on each side of the pattern float when cutting the pattern; S8. The fabric after cutting is stretched and set, and the setting width is 141.5cm.

[0015] In step S1, the 20 / 22D and 40 / 44D factory yarns are wound separately, including: The GD001-145D type edged bobbin winding machine is used, with a machine speed of 40-42 meters / minute. The tension of 20 / 22D factory yarn is 15-18 CN, with a cleanliness score of ≥97.5 and a purity score of ≥94.0. The tension of 40 / 44D factory yarn is 30-33 CN.

[0016] In step S2, the 20 / 22D factory yarn is twisted in the S direction to a twist of 700 twists / meter, including: 20 / 22D factory yarn is twisted in a unidirectional S-direction, meaning the fiber tilts from the lower right to the upper left, with a twist of 700 twists / meter. This reduces fuzzing and breakage and increases the elasticity of the factory yarn. The twisting is performed using a 318 silk doubling machine.

[0017] In step S3, two twisted 20 / 22D factory yarns are plied together to form the warp yarn, and three 40 / 44D factory yarns are plied together to form the weft yarn, including the following steps: S301. Two twisted 20 / 22D factory yarns are combined to form the warp yarn; Two 20 / 22D factory yarns with 700 twist in the S direction are twisted and combined using a GD102 type untwisted yarn combining machine.

[0018] S302, Three 40 / 44D factory yarns are twisted together to form the weft yarn; Three 40 / 44D factory yarns are twisted and combined to improve strength and uniformity. The twisting and combining is carried out using a GD102 type untwisted yarn combining machine.

[0019] In step S4, the two 20 / 22D factory yarns after plying are twisted into a first factory yarn with a Z-direction twist rate of 800 twists / meter, and the three 40 / 44D factory yarns after plying are twisted in the S-direction with a twist rate of 300 twists / meter. This includes the following steps: S401. Twist the two 20 / 22D factory yarns after they are twisted together into a first factory yarn with a Z-direction twist rate of 800 twists / meter. Two 700-twist 20 / 22D factory yarns in the S direction are twisted together to form the first factory yarn, with a twist of 800 twists / meter and a twist direction in the Z direction. The twisting is performed using a 318 silk doubling machine.

[0020] S402. Twist the three 40 / 44D factory yarns after they are twisted together in the S direction, with a twist of 300 twists / meter. The 40 / 44D factory yarn, which consists of three strands joined together, is twisted 300 times per meter in the S direction and then twisted using a 318 silk doubling machine.

[0021] In step S5, the first yarn is warped, including: The first batch of yarn was warped using an HF988C slitting and warping machine. The yarn was off-white, with a total of 15,072 warp ends and a warp beam width of 145cm.

[0022] In step S6, the twisted 40 / 44D factory yarn is used as both the weft and warp yarns for weaving, with a weft density of 166.5 shuttles / cm, including: The fabric is woven on an R880 high-speed rapier loom with a rectangular 5120 needle jacquard loom head. The loom speed is 300 rpm. When the fabric is at the weft end position during the weaving process, the number of weft yarns per unit length is 166.5 shuttles / cm. The fabric is woven using a segmented stop and change track technology.

[0023] In step S7, the woven fabric is hand-cut to create patterns. During this process, a 0.7-1cm fringed edge is left on each side of the pattern float, including: The woven fabric is then hand-cut to create patterns, leaving 0.7-1cm fringes on each side of the pattern floats.

[0024] In step S8, the cut fabric is stretched and set, with a setting width of 141.5cm, including: Spray stretching is performed using an HSST-0340 tenter frame with a steam temperature of 100 degrees Celsius to avoid damaging the protein structure of the silk fibers with high temperatures. The stretching width is 141.5 cm, which is adjusted using the mechanical device on the tenter frame.

[0025] In this invention, by setting the winding, twisting, and plying process parameters and using specific types of textile equipment, the problems of yarn damage, insufficient yarn strength, and poor uniformity in existing technologies are effectively solved. By controlling the weft density and combining it with standardized hand-cutting edge retention standards, the scarf fabric exhibits a unique visual effect similar to yarn-dyed fabric. The use of low-temperature spray-stretching and setting avoids damage to the silk fibers from high temperatures. Combined with width control, this further enhances the comfort and dimensional stability of the fabric and extends its service life. The fabric has a soft and supple feel, and the scarf fabric has a yarn-dyed fabric-like effect. The medium-pile and medium-length fiber yarn raw materials do not shed or fall after pile-pileing, improving the comfort and durability of the fabric.

[0026] Although preferred embodiments of the invention have been described, those skilled in the art, upon learning the basic inventive concept, can make other changes and modifications to these embodiments. Clearly, those skilled in the art can make various alterations and variations to the invention without departing from its spirit and scope. Therefore, if these modifications and variations fall within the scope of equivalents of the invention, the invention is also intended to include these modifications and variations.

Claims

1. A method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Winding process is performed on the 20 / 22D and 40 / 44D specifications of factory yarn respectively; S2. Twist the 20 / 22D factory yarn in the S direction to a twist of 700 twists / meter; S3. Two twisted 20 / 22D factory yarns are plied together as warp yarns, and three 40 / 44D factory yarns are plied together as weft yarns. S4. Twist the two 20 / 22D factory yarns after plying into a first factory yarn with a Z-direction twist of 800 twists / meter. Twist the three 40 / 44D factory yarns after plying into a S-direction twist of 300 twists / meter. S5. Perform warping treatment on the first batch of yarn; S6. Weaving is carried out using twisted 40 / 44D factory yarn as both weft and warp yarns, with a weft density of 166.5 shuttles / cm. S7. Manually cut the pattern on the woven fabric, leaving a 0.7-1cm fringed edge on each side of the pattern float when cutting the pattern; S8. The fabric after cutting is stretched and set, and the setting width is 141.5cm.

2. The method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, In S1, the winding is performed using a GD001-145D type edged bobbin winding machine at a speed of 40-42 meters per minute. The tension of 20 / 22D factory yarn is controlled at 15-18 CN, and the tension of 40 / 44D factory yarn is controlled at 30-33 CN.

3. The method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, In both S2 and S4, the twisting is performed using a 318 silk doubling machine.

4. The method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, In S3, the twisting and spinning process is carried out using a GD102 type untwisted spinning machine.

5. The method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, In S5, warping is performed using an HF988C slitting and warping machine, with a total of 15,072 warp ends and a warp beam width of 145cm.

6. The method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, In S6, weaving is carried out using an R880 high-speed rapier loom with a rectangular 5120-needle jacquard head and a machine speed of 300 rpm.

7. The method for weaving intangible cultural heritage fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, In S8, spray stretching is performed using an HSST-0340 tenter frame.