Jacquard cool fabric, its weaving method and finishing process

Abstract

The application discloses a jacquard cool fabric, a weaving method thereof and a finishing process, and belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics. The weaving method adopts the following technical scheme: on a common double-sided circular knitting machine, a 1-section and a 2-section needle are arranged on an upper needle disc, and a 1-3 section needle is arranged on a lower needle cylinder; through 8-weft weaving cycle control, loop transfer and tuck actions are realized to achieve the effect of loop transfer jacquard. The finishing process comprises strengthening scouring, pre-setting, dyeing, simultaneous treatment of moisture absorption and sweat releasing finishing, immersion of a cool finishing agent and high-temperature setting. The application realizes the effect of loop transfer jacquard on a common circular knitting machine, breaks through the limitation of special equipment, and the obtained fabric has the characteristics of three-dimensional jacquard pattern, cool comfort, quick drying and air permeability, and the cool performance Qmax is greater than or equal to 0.2, and is suitable for the preparation of T-shirts and other garments.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile fabric technology, specifically to a jacquard fabric with a cooling function, its weaving method, and its finishing process. Background Technology

[0002] Jacquard weaves, due to their unique pattern effects and three-dimensionality, have broad application prospects in the high-end knitwear industry. Currently, the production of jacquard fabrics mainly relies on specialized jacquard equipment. Various specialized jacquard equipment are disclosed in the prior art. For example, patent CN201620978867.9 discloses a triangular system for a two-sided transfer rib knitting machine, employing two paths of jacquard weaving and one path of transfer to form a three-path cycle, achieving the transfer effect through the cooperation of a dedicated upper and lower triangular system. Patent CN202020070439.2 discloses a jacquard machine that can be used for both single-sided and transfer functions, allowing switching between single-sided jacquard and transfer functions by changing the sinker and sinker triangle. Patent CN201610765352.5 discloses a rib knitting machine capable of mutual transfer between upper and lower needles, using transfer needles with expander plates to achieve mutual transfer between upper and lower needles.

[0003] However, the above-mentioned existing technologies all have the following shortcomings: (1) Strong equipment dependence: They must be woven on special jacquard machines or specially modified equipment, which requires large equipment investment and has a narrow scope of application, making it difficult for ordinary knitting enterprises to promote and apply them; (2) Limited production efficiency: The number of yarn feeding paths of special equipment is limited, and the space occupied by the triangular arrangement is large, which affects production efficiency; (3) Single function: Existing equipment focuses on jacquard effect and does not consider the functional finishing of fabrics, such as the comfort functions of coolness and quick-drying, which require additional processes to achieve.

[0004] Furthermore, in the field of cooling fabrics, existing technologies, such as patent CN201920555926.5, disclose a cooling fabric woven from ASKIN cooling polyester yarn, which imparts cooling properties through the yarn itself. However, this technology does not involve a transfer jacquard structure, and the cooling function depends on specific yarns, resulting in higher costs.

[0005] How to achieve the transfer jacquard effect on a regular circular knitting machine, while simultaneously imparting a cooling sensation and quick-drying function to the fabric, without relying on a specific cooling yarn, has become a pressing technical problem to be solved in this field. Summary of the Invention

[0006] Purpose of the invention: The purpose of this invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a jacquard cool-feel fabric that can be woven on a common circular knitting machine, as well as its weaving method and finishing process. Through special needle arrangement, needle configuration and weave structure design, the transfer jacquard effect is achieved, and the finishing process gives the fabric a cool feel and quick-drying function.

[0007] Technical solution: To achieve the above objectives, the present invention adopts the following technical solution: In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for weaving a jacquard cool-feel fabric, which achieves a loop-shifting jacquard effect on a conventional double-sided circular knitting machine through needle arrangement and triangular configuration, and adopts the following technical solution: (1) Arrangement of knitting needles: The upper needle plate uses 1-segment knitting needles and 2-segment knitting needles arranged alternately by pulling needles; the lower needle cylinder uses 1-segment knitting needles, 2-segment knitting needles and 3-segment knitting needles, of which the 3-segment knitting needles are arranged alternately by pulling needles; (2) Knitting structure: An 8-way knitting cycle is adopted. By controlling the loop forming and gathering actions of the upper needle plate and the lower needle cylinder in different ways, a transfer jacquard structure is formed.

[0008] Preferably, the needles of the upper needle plate are arranged as follows: 34 needles in a 1-segment configuration, 1 needle in a 2-segment configuration, and alternated by needle withdrawal, with a total of 135 needles in the upper needle plate forming one cycle; the needles of the lower needle cylinder are arranged as follows: 31 needles in a 1-segment configuration, 31 needles in a 2-segment configuration, 10 needles in a 3-segment configuration, and alternated by needle withdrawal, with a total of 134 needles in the lower needle cylinder forming one cycle.

[0009] Preferably, the 8-way braided loop is as follows: Needle rolls: Rows 1-3 and 5-7 are for gathering one section of needles and forming two sections of needles; Rows 4 and 8 are for forming all needles. Knitting the needle cylinder: Sections 1 and 5 are knitted in circles on section 1 and section 2 needles respectively; Sections 2-4 and 6-8 are knitted in circles.

[0010] Preferably, the ordinary double-sided circular knitting machine is a 28-pin double-sided circular knitting machine.

[0011] Secondly, the present invention provides a finishing process for the jacquard cool-feel fabric greige obtained by the above-mentioned weaving method, comprising the following steps: Step 1, Intensive Refining: Use 2g / L of high-efficiency degreasing agent and 1g / L of chelating dispersant, heat-treat at 85℃, and then wash thoroughly with water at 60℃; Step 2, Pre-setting: Setting temperature 195℃, vehicle speed 20m / min; Step 3: Dyeing and moisture-wicking finishing in the same bath: Bath ratio 1:10, pH 4-5, add 1.5g / L leveling agent, 1.0g / L dyeing acid, 3% owf moisture-wicking finishing agent and disperse dye, and dye according to the temperature rise curve. After dyeing, change the solution and drain the water, add 3.0% owf fixing agent for color fixation treatment; the temperature rise curve is as follows: 30℃ to 50℃ takes 30min, add moisture-wicking finishing agent, 50℃ to 90℃ takes 40min, hold for 40min, cool to 50℃ takes 20min, change the solution and add fixing agent, then heat to 80℃ takes 20min, hold for 20min. Step 4, Padding Treatment: The padding solution contains 10g / L of moisture-wicking finishing agent and citric acid; the roll pressure is 0.3-0.4MPa; and the roll yield is 65%. Step 5: High-temperature setting: Baking temperature 170℃, time 70s.

[0012] Preferably, in step one, the temperatures of the refining tank are 40℃, 60℃, and 85℃ respectively, the temperatures of the washing tank are 70℃, 60℃, 50℃, and 40℃ respectively, and the vehicle speed is 25m / min.

[0013] Preferably, the disperse dyes in step three include: Acid Red 0.01-3.0% owf, Acid Yellow 0.01-3.0% owf, and Acid Blue 0.01-3.0% owf; the addition rate of the disperse dyes is 2 L / min, and the addition rate of the dyeing acid is 1 L / min.

[0014] Thirdly, the present invention provides a jacquard cool-feel fabric, which is woven into a greige fabric by the above-mentioned weaving method and then processed by the above-mentioned finishing process; the fabric is composed of polyamide fiber and spandex, wherein the polyamide fiber content is 65-85% and the spandex content is 15-35%; the polyamide fiber fineness is 50-140D and the spandex fineness is 20-70D.

[0015] Preferably, the fabric has a cooling performance Qmax≥0.2, which meets the GB / T 35263 standard.

[0016] Fourthly, the present invention provides the application of the above-mentioned jacquard cooling fabric in the preparation of T-shirts.

[0017] Beneficial effects: Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: (1) This invention achieves the jacquard transfer effect by using a regular circular knitting machine and a special needle arrangement and needle configuration, breaking through the limitation that traditional jacquard transfer machines must be used, greatly reducing equipment costs and improving production efficiency.

[0018] (2) The present invention uses the specific stitch ratio of 135 / 134 stitch cycle and the synergistic effect of 8-way triangle configuration to form a jacquard pattern with strong three-dimensionality and distinct layers on the fabric surface, which is both beautiful and functional.

[0019] (3) This invention uses dyeing and moisture-wicking finishing in the same bath, combined with cooling finishing process, to make the fabric have good cooling, quick-drying performance and wearing comfort. The cooling performance Qmax≥0.2 meets the needs of high-end sports and summer clothing.

[0020] (4) The process of this invention is stable and controllable, suitable for industrial production, and has good economic benefits and market prospects. Attached Figure Description

[0021] Figure 1 This is a diagram showing the woven triangle arrangement in an embodiment of the present invention; Figure 2 This is a temperature curve diagram of the dyeing process in an embodiment of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0022] The present invention will be further described below with reference to specific embodiments, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto. Specific Implementation Example 1 like Figure 1 As shown, the jacquard cooling fabric in this embodiment is woven on a 28-needle double-sided circular knitting machine with the following needle arrangement: The needle plate consists of 34 needles in one section and 1 needle in two sections, alternating by pulling needles, for a total of 135 needles per cycle; The needle cylinder consists of 31 needles in section 1, 31 needles in section 2, and 10 needles in section 3, alternating with needle pulls, for a total of 134 needles per cycle.

[0024] The braided structure has an 8-way loop: Needle rolls: Rows 1-3 and 5-7 are for gathering one section of needles and forming two sections of needles; Rows 4 and 8 are for forming all needles. Knitting the needle cylinder: Sections 1 and 5 are knitted in circles on section 1 and section 2 needles respectively; Sections 2-4 and 6-8 are knitted in circles.

[0025] The resulting greige fabric has the following composition: 75% polyamide fiber, 25% spandex, 75D polyamide fiber, and 40D spandex.

[0026] like Figure 2 As shown, the finishing process of the jacquard cooling fabric in this embodiment is as follows: Step 1, Intensive Refining: 2g / L of high-efficiency degreasing agent, 1g / L of chelating dispersant, refining tank temperature sequentially 40℃, 60℃, 85℃, after heat treatment at 85℃, water washing tank temperature sequentially 70℃, 60℃, 50℃, 40℃, and thorough water washing at 60℃, with a machine speed of 25m / min.

[0027] Step 2, Pre-setting: Setting temperature 195℃, vehicle speed 20m / min.

[0028] Step 3: Dyeing and moisture-wicking finishing in the same bath: Bath ratio 1:10, add 1.5 g / L leveling agent and softener, run for 10 min, then add disperse dyes (0.5% owf Acid Red, 0.3% owf Acid Yellow, 0.2% owf Acid Blue, added at a rate of 2 L / min), followed by 1.0 g / L dyeing acid (added at a rate of 1 L / min), and adjust the pH to 4-5. Dyeing curve: 30℃→50℃ (30 min), add 3% owf moisture-wicking finishing agent, 50℃→90℃ (40 min), keep warm for 40 min, cool to 50℃ (20 min), change the solution and drain the water, add 3.0% owf fixing agent, heat to 80℃ (20 min), keep warm for 20 min.

[0029] Step 4, Padding treatment: The padding solution contains 10g / L of moisture-wicking finishing agent and citric acid, the roll pressure is 0.3-0.4MPa, and the roll yield is 65%.

[0030] Step 5: High-temperature setting: Baking temperature 170℃, time 70s.

[0031] The fabric was tested and found to have a cooling performance Qmax value of 0.23, which meets the GB / T 35263 standard. It has a three-dimensional jacquard effect on the surface, a soft hand feel, and excellent moisture absorption and quick-drying properties, making it suitable for the production of high-end T-shirts. Specific Implementation Example 2 The polyamide fiber content was adjusted to 65%, the spandex content to 35%, the polyamide fiber specification to 50D, the spandex specification to 20D, and the rest to be the same as in Example 1.

[0033] The resulting fabric has a cooling performance Qmax value of 0.21, indicating good jacquard effect and cooling function. Specific Implementation Example 3 The polyamide fiber content was adjusted to 85%, the spandex content to 15%, the polyamide fiber specification to 140D, the spandex specification to 70D, and the rest to be the same as in Example 1.

[0035] The resulting fabric has a cooling performance Qmax value of 0.20, is thick and crisp, and has a noticeable jacquard effect.

[0036] The above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention, and are not intended to limit them. Those skilled in the art can modify or make equivalent substitutions to the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, and such modifications and substitutions should all be covered within the scope of the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for weaving a jacquard cool-feel fabric, characterized in that: The following technical solution is used to achieve a shift jacquard effect on a standard double-sided circular knitting machine by adjusting the needle arrangement and cam configuration: (1) Arrangement of knitting needles: The upper needle plate uses 1-segment knitting needles and 2-segment knitting needles arranged alternately by pulling needles; the lower needle cylinder uses 1-segment knitting needles, 2-segment knitting needles and 3-segment knitting needles, of which the 3-segment knitting needles are arranged alternately by pulling needles; (2) Knitting structure: An 8-way knitting cycle is adopted. By controlling the loop forming and gathering actions of the upper needle plate and the lower needle cylinder in different ways, a transfer jacquard structure is formed.

2. The weaving method of the jacquard cooling fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the arrangement of the knitting needles: The needles on the upper needle plate are arranged as follows: 34 needles in one section and 1 needle in two sections, with the needles alternated by pulling them out. A total of 135 needles make up one cycle on the upper needle plate. The needles in the lower cylinder are arranged as follows: 31 needles in section 1, 31 needles in section 2, and 10 needles in section 3, with each section alternating by needle withdrawal. A total of 134 needles in the lower cylinder constitute one cycle.

3. The weaving method of the jacquard cool-feel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the braided structure, the 8-way braiding loop is specifically as follows: Needle rolls: Rows 1-3 and 5-7 are for gathering one section of needles and forming two sections of needles; Rows 4 and 8 are for forming all needles. Knitting the needle cylinder: Sections 1 and 5 are knitted in circles on section 1 and section 2 needles respectively; Sections 2-4 and 6-8 are knitted in circles.

4. The weaving method of the jacquard cooling fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The aforementioned ordinary double-sided circular knitting machine is a 28-pin double-sided circular knitting machine.

5. A finishing process for a jacquard cool-feel fabric greige woven by the weaving method described in any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that: Includes the following steps: Step 1, Intensive Refining: Use 2g / L of high-efficiency degreasing agent and 1g / L of chelating dispersant, heat-treat at 85℃, and then wash thoroughly with water at 60℃; Step 2, Pre-setting: Setting temperature 195℃, vehicle speed 20m / min; Step 3: Dyeing and moisture-wicking finishing in the same bath: liquor ratio 1:10, pH value 4-5, add 1.5g / L leveling agent, 1.0g / L dyeing acid, 3% owf moisture-wicking finishing agent and disperse dye, and dye according to the temperature rise curve. After dyeing, change the solution and drain the water, add 3.0% owf fixing agent for color fixation treatment; the temperature rise curve is as follows: 30℃ to 50℃ takes 30min, add 3% owf moisture-wicking finishing agent, from 50℃ to 90℃ takes 40min, hold for 40min, cool down to 50℃ takes 20min, change the solution and add fixing agent, then heat to 80℃ takes 20min, hold for 20min; Step 4, Padding Treatment: The padding solution contains 10g / L of moisture-wicking finishing agent and citric acid; the roll pressure is 0.3-0.4MPa; and the roll yield is 65%. Step 5: High-temperature setting: Baking temperature 170℃, time 70s.

6. The finishing process according to claim 5, characterized in that, In step one, the temperatures of the refining tank are 40℃, 60℃, and 85℃ respectively, the temperatures of the washing tank are 70℃, 60℃, 50℃, and 40℃ respectively, and the vehicle speed is 25m / min.

7. The finishing process according to claim 5, characterized in that, In step three, the disperse dyes include Acid Red 0.01-3.0% owf, Acid Yellow 0.01-3.0% owf, and Acid Blue 0.01-3.0% owf; the addition rate of the disperse dyes is 2 L / min, and the addition rate of the dyeing acid is 1 L / min.

8. A jacquard cooling fabric, characterized in that, The fabric is woven by the weaving method described in any one of claims 1-4 and then processed by the finishing process described in any one of claims 5-7; the fabric is composed of polyamide fiber and spandex, wherein the polyamide fiber content is 65-85% and the spandex content is 15-35%; the polyamide fiber fineness is 50-140D and the spandex fineness is 20-70D.

9. A jacquard cooling fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that, The fabric has a cooling performance Qmax≥0.2, which meets the GB / T 35263 standard.

10. The use of the jacquard cooling fabric of claim 8 or 9 in the manufacture of T-shirts.

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