Method of weaving a signature hem on a lyocell fabric

Abstract

The present application relates to the technical field of textile manufacturing, in particular to a weaving method of characteristic selvedge of Tencel fabric. The main body of the fabric is composed of Tencel fiber, and a characteristic selvedge containing characters or graphics is woven at the selvedge of the fabric by weaving method. The design of the characteristic selvedge is divided into the following two cases: the main body of the fabric is white or light color: the surface layer of the characteristic selvedge is composed of Tencel yarn, and the yarn used for the base fabric is also Tencel yarn. The main body of the fabric is dark color: the surface layer of the characteristic selvedge is composed of polyester yarn, and the yarn used for the base fabric is the same as the main body of the fabric. The present application proposes a differentiated design strategy based on the difference in color depth of the finished product. For light color, the same material scheme is adopted; for dark color, the composite structure of polyester characters + Tencel base is adopted, which utilizes the anti-dyeing property of polyester and the physical consistency of Tencel, and solves the two problems of color distortion and physical deformation.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile manufacturing technology, specifically to a method for weaving distinctive selvage in Tencel fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Tencel fiber, as a new type of regenerated cellulose fiber, is widely used in high-end apparel and home textile products due to its softness, comfort, moisture absorption and breathability, bright luster, and environmental friendliness. With the increasing demand for product personalization and branding in the consumer market, weaving brand names, logos, and other text or graphics into the selvage of fabrics (hereinafter referred to as "special selvage") has become an important means of enhancing product added value and brand recognition. Simultaneously, during the dyeing and finishing process, the selvage not only needs to withstand the tension from fabric clips or needle punches but also the enormous tension experienced by Tencel cellulose fiber fabrics during the setting and stretching process after mercerizing. Therefore, the design of the selvage must be sturdy, flat, and appropriately tight, which is particularly crucial as it forms the foundation for ensuring the smooth progress of finishing work.

[0003] However, the unique physical and chemical properties of Tencel fiber present significant challenges to the design and production of distinctive selvage. Existing technologies for addressing selvage issues in Tencel and similar fiber fabrics are typically limited to resolving individual physical defects, lacking a systematic solution.

[0004] For example, patent CN107974752A discloses a method to prevent elastic fabric from curling by asymmetrically increasing the number of right-side selvage yarns to 140; patent CN203284564U discloses adding 10-15 high-strength polyester elastic yarns to the selvage to improve wet strength and prevent breakage during finishing. Patent CN107974753A combines increasing the number of selvage yarns and increasing the reed density to reinforce the selvage.

[0005] The general limitations of existing technologies are as follows: First, they have a singular focus, solely on physical reinforcement. The core idea of ​​the aforementioned solutions is to solve mechanical stability problems such as curling and tearing by increasing the number and density of selvage yarns or introducing high-strength fibers. They do not address the design of distinctive woven selvage, nor can they meet the requirements for aesthetics and brand identification. Second, they ignore the fundamental contradiction of material matching: these solutions, in pursuit of strength, introduce materials with physical properties vastly different from Tencel fabric, such as shrinkage rate, or simply increase the quantity of the same material. This superficial approach often leads to new physical deformation problems, such as selvage bubbling, loose edges, or tight edges, making it difficult to achieve a high degree of flatness and harmony between the selvage and the fabric body. Most importantly, existing technologies completely fail to solve the problem of chemical stability and do not consider the color retention of distinctive woven selvage during the dyeing process. When dyeing the fabric body, especially with dark dyes, ensuring that the pre-woven brand logo or text on the selvage is not stained, discolored, or has color bleeding is the core challenge in achieving high-quality distinctive selvage, and existing technologies offer no effective technical guidance in this regard.

[0006] Therefore, developing a design method that can ensure that the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabrics can maintain both physical flatness and consistent, vibrant color after undergoing complex dyeing and finishing processes has become a pressing technical problem to be solved in this field. Summary of the Invention

[0007] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, the purpose of this invention is to provide a method for weaving distinctive selvage on Tencel fabrics. This method aims to systematically solve the technical problems of physical deformation such as curling and bubbling, as well as chemical color distortion such as color change and color mixing caused by dyeing and finishing processes after weaving distinctive selvage on Tencel fabrics. In particular, it provides a comprehensive solution that can differentiate designs based on the final color depth of the fabric.

[0008] The present invention describes a method for weaving a distinctive selvage on Tencel fabric. The main body of the fabric is composed of Tencel fibers, and a distinctive selvage containing text or graphics is woven into its selvage. The distinctive selvage design falls into two categories: (1) Fabrics that are predominantly white or light-colored: The surface weaving yarn used to form text or graphics in the special woven edge, as well as the yarn used in the base fabric, are made of the same Tencel yarn as the main material of the fabric. (2) The main fabric color is dark: The distinctive woven edge adopts a composite material structure, wherein the surface woven yarn used to form text or graphics is made of polyester staple fiber yarn, while the yarn constituting the base fabric of the distinctive woven edge is made of Tencel yarn, which is the same material as the main body of the fabric.

[0009] The reed thread count on the selvage should be higher than that on the body of the fabric, and the fabric float should be greater than that on the body of the fabric to highlight the pattern effect of the selvage. However, the overall tightness of the selvage must be greater than that of the body of the fabric to enhance the stability of the selvage.

[0010] When the main body of the fabric is white or light-colored, the surface yarn is a pre-dyed Tencel ply yarn.

[0011] The yarn specifications of the special woven selvage base fabric are consistent with the warp yarn specifications that constitute the main body of the fabric.

[0012] The distinctive selvage is woven using a double warp structure, with the woven yarns floating on the surface of the distinctive selvage in the form of longer warp floats.

[0013] When the main body of the fabric is dark-colored, the double weave adopts a weave structure that combines 3 / 1 float length and 1 / 3 float length to enhance the coverage of the pattern and prevent the color of the base fabric yarn from showing.

[0014] The reed density of the special selvage is higher than that of the main fabric. The float of the surface weave of the special selvage is greater than that of the main fabric. The float of the base fabric of the special selvage is the same as that of the main fabric. The average float of the weave is 2 to 6 times greater than that of the base fabric of the selvage.

[0015] Furthermore, the number of yarns threaded through the special woven edge area is 3 to 6 per reed tooth, which is 1.3 to 3 times the number of yarns threaded through each reed tooth of the main fabric.

[0016] The weaving machine is an air-jet single-weave machine with a weaving tension of 2500~3000N, a machine speed of 450~550 rpm, and an efficiency controlled above 80%. The shedding time during the weaving process is 320~330 degrees.

[0017] The specific yarn arrangement is shown in Table 1 below: Table 1 Yarn Arrangement List

[0018] As shown in Table 1 above, the overall construction of the special selvage design is as follows: First, the standard selvage width is 0.7cm, designed according to the distance required by the dyeing and finishing needle plate. This selvage protects the special selvage from damage and prevents tears and fraying during dyeing and finishing. The special selvage section is designed with a width of 0.8cm. This width must ensure both the integrity of the pattern and the acceptable effective width. The overall width of the 0.7cm + 0.8cm selvage sections is controlled to approximately 1.5cm to avoid affecting the usable effective width of the entire fabric.

[0019] The selvage uses a reed thread count and weave structure that coordinates with the fabric body, ensuring a smooth, sturdy, and appropriately tight selvage. The specific weave arrangement is shown in Table 2. Table 2 Organizational Ranking List

[0020] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: (1) This invention proposes for the first time a differentiated design strategy based on the color depth of the finished product. For light colors, the same material is used, which fundamentally eliminates the problems of bubbling and curling caused by the difference in shrinkage rate; for dark colors, a composite structure of "polyester lettering + Tencel base" is used, which cleverly utilizes the dye resistance of polyester and the consistency of the physical properties of Tencel, and solves the two major problems of color distortion and physical deformation at the same time.

[0021] (2) This invention breaks through the conventional thinking of traditional dyeing and finishing. It utilizes the natural resistance of polyester fibers to commonly used Tencel dyes to keep the surface woven yarn "natural color" during the dark dyeing process. Combined with the double-structured float design, it ensures that the brand text or logo still maintains high whiteness or bright color on dark fabric, which greatly enhances the visual impact of the product and brand recognition.

[0022] (3) Since the weaving design at the source avoids various fabric edge defects that may occur in the dyeing and finishing process, the repair and rework in the production process are reduced, the smoothness of dyeing and finishing is improved, thereby effectively improving the overall production efficiency and finished product delivery rate.

[0023] (4) This invention enhances the tightness and strength of the selvage by increasing the reed density to a higher level than the fabric body and combining it with specific machine tension and opening time. This not only ensures that the outline of complex woven patterns is sharp and does not scatter, but also gives the selvage sufficient strength to resist mechanical stretching during the dyeing and finishing process, fundamentally improving the weaving reliability and yield of the product. Attached Figure Description

[0024] Figure 1 This is a design diagram of the warp arrangement of the distinctive selvage in Example 1; Figure 2 This is a partial pattern diagram of the distinctive fabric selvage of Example 1; Figure 3 This is a partial enlarged view of the weave pattern of the distinctive selvage in Example 1; Figure 4 This is a design diagram of the warp arrangement of the distinctive selvage in Example 2; Figure 5 This is a partial pattern diagram of the distinctive fabric selvage in Example 2; Figure 6 This is a partial enlarged view of the pattern of the distinctive fabric edge in Example 2. Detailed Implementation

[0025] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the embodiments.

[0026] Unless otherwise specified, all raw materials used in the examples were commercially available.

[0027] Refined enzyme 601-L conc, manufactured by Novozymes; Extractant RED, manufactured by Anggao Chemical; Extractant EX, manufactured by Anggao Chemical; Refining agent FORYL EPD-C, manufactured by Kokai Chemical; Desizing enzyme DS-HT, penetrants WA-M, SQ-A, and SQ-N are produced by Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0028] Example 1 The main fabric specification is: TENCEL50 TENCEL50 160 98 57 / 58; Warp yarn: Tencel 50 single yarn (English count); Weft yarn: Tencel 50 single yarn (English count); Density: 160 warp threads / inch, 98 weft threads / inch; Width: 57-58 inches; Fabric blend ratio: 100% Tencel; weave: plain weave.

[0029] The warp arrangement design of the distinctive selvage in Example 1 is shown in the figure below. Figure 1 As shown.

[0030] The main body of the fabric is light blue, and the lettering on the selvage is made of specially dyed blue yarn. A special selvage containing text or graphics is woven into the selvage. The partial weave pattern of the special selvage in Example 1 is shown below. Figure 2 As shown; The yarn selection for the surface woven lettering: Tencel 100-count ply yarn is used and pre-dyed in the brand-specified blue (special dyeing yarn).

[0031] Base fabric yarn: The same Tencel 50 single yarn as the warp yarn of the main fabric is used.

[0032] Weaving structure: It adopts a double weave with a reed thread count of 4 stitches per reed tooth, which is higher than the 3 stitches per reed tooth of the fabric body. The overall tightness of the selvage is greater than that of the main fabric body to enhance selvage stability.

[0033] Weaving parameters: The loom used is an air-jet loom for single weaving, with a machine speed of 500 rpm, a tension of 2700 N, and a shedding time of 320 degrees. The average efficiency is 88%.

[0034] The distinctive selvage weave: The selvage base fabric uses a 3 / 1+1 / 3 double weave, with the average float of the characters being 2-6 times greater than the float of the selvage base fabric. A partial enlarged view of the weave pattern of the distinctive selvage in Example 1 is shown below. Figure 3 As shown; Dyeing and finishing process: singeing (speed: 80m / min) → cold pile (caustic soda: 40mL / L, no hydrogen peroxide added, cold pile for 20 hours) → tight desizing and scouring (desizing and scouring time: 5min, desizing tank temperature 50℃, scouring water tank temperature 95℃, speed 50m / min, desizing enzyme DS-HT 3g / L, penetrant WA-M 5g / L, refining agent 601-L 1g / L, extractant RED:EX (mass ratio 1:3) 4g / L, refining agent FORYL EPD-C 6g / L) → oxygen bleaching (speed: 40m / min, SQ-A:SQ-N 10g / L, SQ-A:SQ-N mass ratio 6:4, EPD-C 6g / L, steaming and piling time after padding: 20min).

[0035] Final product inspection: The fabric edges are smooth, without any bubbles, curling, or wavy edges. The blue lettering is clear and the color is pure, without fading due to the bleaching process. This proves the effectiveness of the same material solution in addressing the physical deformation problem of light-colored Tencel fabric edges.

[0036] Example 2 The main fabric specification is: TENCEL60 TENCEL60 164 100 57 / 58; Warp yarn: Tencel 60 single yarn (English count); Weft yarn: Tencel 60 single yarn (English count); Density: 164 warp threads / inch, 100 weft threads / inch; Width: 57-58 inches; Fabric blend ratio: 100% Tencel; weave: plain weave.

[0037] The warp arrangement design of the distinctive selvage in Example 2 is shown in the figure below. Figure 4 As shown.

[0038] The main body of the fabric is dark blue, with white lettering on the selvage. A special selvage containing text or graphics is woven into the selvage. The pattern diagram of the special selvage in Example 2 is shown below. Figure 5 As shown; The yarn selection for the surface woven lettering is: 100-count polyester staple fiber ply yarn, white in color.

[0039] Base fabric yarn: The same Tencel 60 single yarn as the warp yarn of the main fabric is used.

[0040] Weaving structure: A double-weave structure is adopted. To highlight the pattern effect and prevent the base color from showing through, the weave is designed as a twill-like variation combining 3 / 1 float length and 1 / 3 float length. The reed count is increased to 5 stitches / reed tooth, higher than the 3 stitches / reed tooth of the fabric body. The overall tightness of the selvage is greater than that of the main fabric body to enhance selvage stability.

[0041] Weaving parameters: The loom used is an air-jet loom for single weaving, with a machine speed of 530 rpm, a tension of 2800 N, and a shedding time of 330 degrees. The average efficiency is 86%.

[0042] The distinctive selvage weave: The selvage base fabric uses a 3 / 1+1 / 3 double weave, with the average float of the characters being 2-6 times greater than the float of the selvage base fabric. A partial enlarged view of the weave pattern of the distinctive selvage in Example 2 is shown below. Figure 6 As shown; Dyeing and finishing process: singeing (speed: 80m / min) → cold pile (caustic soda: 40mL / L, no hydrogen peroxide added, cold pile for 20 hours) → tight desizing and scouring (desizing and scouring time: 4min, desizing tank temperature 50℃, scouring water tank temperature 95℃, speed 50m / min, desizing enzyme DS-HT 3g / L, penetrant WA-M 5g / L, refining agent 601-L 1g / L, extractant RED:EX (mass ratio 1:3) 4g / L, refining agent FORYL EPD-C 6g / L) → oxygen bleaching (speed: 40m / min, SQ-A:SQ-N 10g / L, SQ-A:SQ-N mass ratio 6:4, EPD-C 6g / L, steaming and piling time after padding: 20min).

[0043] Final product inspection: The fabric edges are smooth and well-bonded to the fabric body, with no defects caused by shrinkage differences. The white polyester logo pattern is pure in color and not stained by dark blue dye, forming a sharp contrast with the dark blue fabric body, resulting in an excellent visual effect. This proves the dual effectiveness of the "polyester face + Tencel back" composite solution in solving the problems of color distortion and physical deformation of dark-colored Tencel fabric edges.

Claims

1. A method for weaving a distinctive selvage on a Tencel fabric, characterized in that, The main body of the fabric is made of Tencel fiber, and its selvage is woven with special selvage containing text or graphics. The special selvage design is divided into the following two types: (1) Fabrics that are predominantly white or light-colored: The surface weaving yarn used to form text or graphics in the special woven edge, as well as the yarn used in the base fabric, are made of the same Tencel yarn as the main material of the fabric. (2) The main fabric color is dark: The distinctive woven edge adopts a composite material structure, wherein the surface woven yarn used to form text or graphics is made of polyester staple fiber yarn, while the yarn constituting the base fabric of the distinctive woven edge is made of Tencel yarn, which is the same material as the main body of the fabric.

2. The weaving method for the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, When the main body of the fabric is white or light-colored, the surface yarn is a pre-dyed Tencel ply yarn.

3. The weaving method for the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn specifications of the special woven selvage base fabric are consistent with the warp yarn specifications that constitute the main body of the fabric.

4. The weaving method for the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The distinctive selvage is woven using a double-warp weave structure.

5. The weaving method for the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, When the main body of the fabric is dark-colored, the double weave adopts a weave structure that combines 3 / 1 float length and 1 / 3 float length.

6. The weaving method for the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The reed density of the special selvage is higher than that of the main fabric, and the fabric float of the special selvage is greater than that of the main fabric.

7. The method for weaving the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that, The number of yarns threaded through the special woven edge area is 3 to 6 per reed tooth, which is 1.3 to 3 times the number of yarns threaded through each reed tooth of the main fabric.

8. The method for weaving the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weaving machine is an air-jet single-weaving machine with a weaving tension of 2500~3000N.

9. The method for weaving the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The speed of the weaving machine is 450~550 rpm.

10. The method for weaving the distinctive selvage of Tencel fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weaving process has an opening time of 320-330 degrees, and the efficiency is controlled at over 80%.

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