Photoprotective cosmetic composition
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202480086493.7
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-08-28
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This disclosure relates to the field of photoprotective cosmetic or dermatological compositions. More specifically, this disclosure relates to the field of photoprotective cosmetic compositions comprising at least one chemical sunscreen agent, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, and a silicone elastomer. Background Technology
[0002] Consumers expect new cosmetic products with high-protection properties to maintain their skin health, which in turn presents a huge technological challenge for the cosmetics industry.
[0003] As is well known, sunlight or ultraviolet radiation in the UV-B range has wavelengths from 290nm to 320nm and is the main cause of sunburn. Ultraviolet rays with wavelengths from 320nm to 400nm (UV-A radiation) will cause skin tanning and can also damage or harm the skin. The basic ingredient in sun protection products is sunscreen, which has the ability to filter or block harmful UVA and UVB rays.
[0004] Commercial sun protection products are regulated. For example, the sun protection provided by sun protection products is officially rated by the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value. Because the SPF value is determined by a test that measures the ability to protect against sunburn caused by UVB radiation, the SPF value focuses on evaluating the UVB protection of sun protection products.
[0005] Furthermore, active photoprotective ingredients are subject to strict regulations. For example, only a limited selection of active photoprotective ingredients is permitted, and the corresponding concentrations of these ingredients are restricted. These stringent regulations make the commercialization of new active photoprotective ingredients or the use of permitted high concentrations of sunscreen agents to achieve better photoprotective efficacy extremely expensive or even impossible. To meet the growing consumer demand for new products with high photoprotective efficacy, the cosmetics industry has been investing heavily in finding cosmetic compositions that can enhance photoprotective effects. However, over the years, this effort has only achieved limited success.
[0006] This disclosure relates to unexpected photoprotective cosmetic compositions that exhibit synergistic enhanced photoprotective efficacy, these unexpected photoprotective cosmetic compositions comprising at least one chemical sunscreen, sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, wax, and silicone elastomer. Detailed Implementation
[0007] Definitions and Conventions
[0008] The term "contains" means that the list of elements is not necessarily limited to those explicitly stated.
[0009] As used in this article, "cosmetic acceptable" means that the composition or component is suitable for use in contact with human keratinocytes.
[0010] As used in this article, “naturally existing” means existing naturally without the need for artificial assistance.
[0011] As used herein, the term "sunscreen agent" refers to a compound or active substance that provides photoprotection. Sunscreen agents can be organic or inorganic. Organic sunscreens are also known as chemical sunscreens. Inorganic sunscreens are also known as physical sunscreens.
[0012] As used herein, the term “molecular weight” refers to weight-average molecular weight unless otherwise stated.
[0013] As used in this article, the term "QS" means 100% sufficient quantity.
[0014] Unless otherwise stated: all numerical values are understood to be modified by the word “about”, all percentages are by weight of the total cosmetic composition, and all ratios are by weight.
[0015] It should be understood that each numerical range explicitly stated herein will include every narrower numerical range falling within such a wider numerical range, as such narrower numerical ranges are all explicitly stated herein.
[0016] As used herein, unless the context otherwise indicates, the singular forms “a” and “the” include plural references. Thus, for example, a reference to “an element” is a reference to one or more elements and includes equivalents of that element known to those skilled in the art. Similarly, for another example, a reference to “a step” or “a component” is a reference to one or more steps or components and may include sub-steps and dependent components.
[0017] As used herein, any single sentence describing multiple alternatives should be treated as a separate sentence, with each alternative comprising its own sentence. For example, the sentence "In some embodiments, the composition comprises A, B, or C" will be interpreted as if written as three separate sentences: "In some embodiments, the composition comprises A. In some embodiments, the composition comprises B. In some embodiments, the composition comprises C." As another example, the sentence "In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least A, B, or C" will be interpreted as if written as three separate sentences: "In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least A. In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least B. In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least C."
[0018] As used herein, “and / or” means “and” or “or”. For example, “A and / or B” means “A, B, or both A and B”, and “A, B, C, and / or D” means “A, B, C, D, or combinations thereof”, and “A, B, C, D, or combinations thereof” means any subset of A, B, C, and D, such as a single-member subset (e.g., A or B or C or D), a two-member subset (e.g., A and B; A and C; etc.), or a three-member subset (e.g., A, B, and C; or A, B, and D; etc.), or all four members (e.g., A, B, C, and D).
[0019] Photoprotective cosmetic compositions
[0020] The photoprotective cosmetic composition disclosed herein comprises at least one chemical sunscreen agent, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, and a silicone elastomer.
[0021] The photoprotective cosmetic compositions disclosed herein may be in the following forms: emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, silicone-in-water, etc.), creams, light emulsions, solutions, anhydrous bases, gels, ointments, pastes, emulsions, liquids, aerosols, and solids. The anhydrous compositions contain less than 0.01% water by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition. Preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic compositions disclosed herein are anhydrous.
[0022] In some preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises at least one UVA chemical sunscreen, at least one UVB chemical sunscreen, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, and a silicone elastomer. Preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises a UVA chemical sunscreen, at least one UVB chemical sunscreen, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, and a silicone elastomer. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises a UVA chemical sunscreen, at least three UVB chemical sunscreens, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a triglyceride, a silicone elastomer, and a liquid carrier. Most preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition is anhydrous and comprises a UVA chemical sunscreen, at least three UVB chemical sunscreens, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a triglyceride, a silicone elastomer, and a liquid carrier.
[0023] Advantageously, the photoprotective cosmetic compositions disclosed herein exhibit unexpectedly enhanced synergistic photoprotective efficacy. In some preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic compositions of this disclosure can be formulated to have an SPF (sunscreen factor) value greater than 40. The calculation of SPF values is well known in the art.
[0024] A. Sunscreen
[0025] The photoprotective cosmetic composition disclosed herein may contain at least one chemical sunscreen agent. The total amount of at least one chemical sunscreen agent present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition, based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition, may range from about 10% to about 40%, preferably from about 15% to about 30%, and more preferably from about 20% to about 25%.
[0026] In some preferred embodiments, at least one chemical sunscreen agent comprises a chemical sunscreen agent selected from the group consisting of UVA chemical sunscreen agents, UVB chemical sunscreen agents, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the at least one chemical sunscreen agent comprises at least one UVA chemical sunscreen agent and at least one UVB chemical sunscreen agent. More preferably, the at least one chemical sunscreen agent comprises a UVA chemical sunscreen agent and at least three UVB chemical sunscreen agents.
[0027] 1. UVA chemical sunscreens
[0028] The term "UVA chemical sunscreen" refers to a chemical compound that blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of approximately 320 nm to 400 nm. Preferred UVA chemical sunscreens are dibenzoylmethane compounds having the following general formula:
[0029] .
[0030] Where R1 is H, OR, and NRR, and each R is independently H, C 1-20 Straight-chain or branched alkyl; R2 is H or OH; and R3 is H or C. 1-20 Straight-chain or branched alkyl groups.
[0031] Preferably, R1 is OR, where R is C. 1-20 Straight-chain or branched alkyl, preferably methyl; R2 is H; and R3 is C. 1-20 Straight-chain or branched alkyl groups, more preferably butyl groups.
[0032] Examples of suitable UVA chemical sunscreen compounds of this general formula include 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Particularly preferred is 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, also known as avobenzone. Avobenzone may be obtained under the trademark name Parsol 1789 from Givaudan-Roure or DSM, under the trademark name Eusolex 9020 from Merck & Co, and under the trademark name Neo Heliopan 357 from Symrise, and has the INCI name butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane and a structure according to the following formula:
[0033] .
[0034] Other types of UVA chemical sunscreens include dicamphor sulfonic acid derivatives, such as Ekaminol, a sunscreen sold by Chimex under the brand name Mexoryl SX, which is terephthalimide dicamphor sulfonic acid and has a structure according to the following formula:
[0035] .
[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises at least one dibenzoylmethane sunscreen agent. More preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane.
[0037] In some embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition may contain at least one UVA chemical sunscreen agent. The total amount of the at least one UVA chemical sunscreen agent present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition, based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition, may range from about 0.1% to about 8%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, and more preferably from about 2% to about 4%.
[0038] 2. UVB chemical sunscreens
[0039] The term "UVB sunscreen" refers to a compound that blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of about 290 nm to 320 nm. Various UVB chemical sunscreens exist, including α-cyano-β,β-diphenylacrylate, as set forth in U.S. Patent No. 3,215,724, the entire text of which is hereby incorporated by reference. A particular example of α-cyano-β,β-diphenylacrylate is octocrylene, which is 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate. Suitable amounts of octocrylene range from about 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight. Octoctocrylene is available from BASF under the trade name Uvinul N-539, from DSM under the trade name Parsol 340, and from Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan 303, and has a structure according to the following formula:
[0040] .
[0041] Other suitable sunscreens include benzylidene camphor derivatives as set forth in U.S. Patent No. 3,781,417, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Such benzylidene camphor derivatives have the following general formula:
[0042] .
[0043] Wherein R is p-tolyl or styrene, preferably styrene. Particularly preferred is 4-methylbenzyl camphor, a fat-soluble UVB sunscreen compound sold under the trademarks Eusolex 6300 by Merck, Neo Heliopan MBC by Symrise, and Parsol 5000 by DSM, having a structure according to the following formula:
[0044] .
[0045] Also suitable are cinnamic ester derivatives having the following general formula:
[0046] .
[0047] Where R and R1 are each independently C 1-20 Straight-chain or branched alkyl group. Preferably, R is a methyl group and R1 is a branched C group. 1-10Preferably, it is a C8 alkyl group. A preferred compound is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, also known as orosinolate or octyl methoxycinnamate. Orosinolate is available under the trademark Parsol MCX from Givaudan Corporation and DSM, or under the trademark Uvinul MC 80 from BASF, or under the trademark Neo Heliopan AV from Symrise, or under the trademark Escalol 557 from Ashland, and has a structure according to the following:
[0048] .
[0049] Also suitable are monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine derivatives of this type of methoxycinnamate, including diethanolamine methoxycinnamate. Aromatic ether derivatives of the above compounds, sinoxalate, are also acceptable. If present, sinoxalate should not exceed about 3% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0050] Various benzophenone derivatives with the following general formula are also suitable as UVB sunscreens:
[0051] .
[0052] R to R9 are each independently H, OH, NaO3S, SO3H, SO3Na, Cl, R'', OR'', where R'' is C. 1-20 Straight-chain or branched alkyl groups. Examples of such compounds include benzophenones 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12. Particularly preferred are benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone 3 (also known as oxybenzophenone), benzophenone 4 (also known as sulphrophenone), and benzophenone 5 (sodium sulphrophenone). Most preferred is benzophenone 3, which is available under the trademarks Uvinul M-40 and NeoHeliopan BB, and has a structure according to the following formula:
[0053] .
[0054] Also suitable are certain salicylic acid menthyl ester derivatives having the following general formula:
[0055] .
[0056] R1, R2, R3, and R4 are each independently H, OH, NH2, or C. 1-20Straight-chain or branched alkyl groups. Particularly preferred are those in which R1, R2, and R3 are methyl groups, and R4 is a hydroxyl group or NH2. The compound is named high-menthol salicylate (also known as humosalilate) or menthyl anthranilate. Menthyl anthranilate is available under the trademark Heliopan from Haarmann & Reimer. Humosalinate is available under the trademark Eusolex HMS from Merck, under the trademark Neo Heliopan HMS from Symrise, and under the trademark Parsol HMS from DSM, having a structure according to the following formula:
[0057] .
[0058] If present, homosalate should be present at no more than about 15% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0059] Various aminobenzoic acid derivatives are suitable UVB absorbers, including those with the following general formula:
[0060]
[0061] R1, R2, and R3 are each independently H, and C can be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. 1-20 Straight-chain or branched alkyl groups. Particularly preferred is where R1 is H or C. 1-8 Straight-chain or branched alkyl groups, and R2 and R3 are H or C. 1-8 Straight-chain or branched alkyl groups. Particularly preferred are PABA, ethylhexyldimethylPABA (padimarate O), and ethyl dihydroxypropylPABA. If present, pardimarate O should not exceed about 8% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0062] Salicylate derivatives are also acceptable UVB absorbers. These compounds have the following general formula: where R is a straight-chain or branched alkyl group, including derivatives of the above compounds formed from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, or triethanolamine. Particularly preferred are octyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate, DEA-salicylate, and mixtures thereof. Octyl salicylate has the INCI name ethylhexyl salicylate and is available under the trade name Escalol 587 from Ashland and under the trade name Eusolex OS from Merck, and has a structure according to the following formula:
[0063] .
[0064] In some embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition may contain at least one UVB chemical sunscreen agent. The total amount of at least one UVB chemical sunscreen agent present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition, by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition, may range from about 5% to about 40%, preferably from about 10% to about 30%, and more preferably from about 15% to about 25%.
[0065] In some preferred embodiments, at least one UVB chemical sunscreen agent comprises at least three UVB chemical sunscreen agents. Preferably, the at least three UVB chemical sunscreen agents are selected from the group consisting of α-cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate, benzyl camphor derivatives, cinnamic acid ester derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, menthyl salicylate derivatives, aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylate derivatives, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the at least three UVB chemical sunscreen agents are selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, 4-methylbenzyl camphor, osinolate, sinoxalate, benzophenone 3, benzophenone 4, benzophenone 5, homosalate, PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate, DEA-salicylate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, at least three UVB chemical sunscreens are selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, osinoxate, sinoxalate, benzophenone 3, homosalate, PABA, ethylhexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, at least three UVB chemical sunscreens include octocrylene, homosalate, and ethylhexyl salicylate.
[0066] B. Sunscreen solubilizers / stabilizers
[0067] In some embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition includes a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer. A sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer is a compound capable of improving the solubility and / or stability of at least one sunscreen ingredient.
[0068] Exemplary sunscreen solubilizers / stabilizers may include C12-15 alkyl benzoates, butyl octyl salicylate, PPG-15 stearyl ether benzoate, and dioctyl carbonate. Preferably, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises butyl octyl salicylate.
[0069] The sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition of this disclosure may be in the range of about 1% to about 10%, preferably about 2% to about 8%, and more preferably about 4% to about 6% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0070] C. Wax
[0071] In some embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises a wax. The wax may be naturally occurring or non-natural. Preferably, the wax is naturally occurring.
[0072] Non-limiting examples of waxes include aluminum distearate, aluminum trioctanoate, aluminum / magnesium stearate hydroxide, diphenylene sorbitol, butylated ethylhexanoyl glutamine, butylated lauroyl glutamine, long-chain alkyl polyacrylate, stearoyl inulin, dextrin palmitate, triacontanol / PVP, octadecene / MA copolymer, bis-Peg-12 polydimethylsiloxane candelilla wax ester, sorbitol / sebacic acid copolymer sorbate, C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, and polyvinyl stearate. Polyethylene, polyethylene copolymers, polyamides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, glycerides (including monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides, such as monoglyceride / diglyceride / triglyceride; preferably triglycerides, including triglyceride, tristearate, trihydroxystearate, tripalmitate and C18-36 triglyceride), natural waxes (including beeswax, carnauba wax and candelilla wax) and hydrocarbons (including ceresin, microcrystalline, paraffin wax).
[0073] In some preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition comprises triglycerides. Triglycerides are esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids. Non-limiting examples of suitable triglycerides include triglycerides of trisorbate, tristearate, trihydroxystearate, tripalmitate, and C18-36 triglycerides. Preferably, the triglyceride is a triester of a long-chain fatty acid. More preferably, the long-chain fatty acid is a saturated fatty acid with a chain length of 18 to 36 carbons. Most preferably, the long-chain fatty acid is linear. Non-limiting examples of such triglycerides include trisorbate, tristearate, and tripalmitate. Particularly preferred are triglycerides of benzyl acid. Triesters of glycerol and benzyl acid have the INCI name trisorbate.
[0074] In the photoprotective cosmetic composition, the wax may be present at a level greater than 1% and less than 20% by weight, more preferably about 1.5% to about 15%, most preferably about 2% to about 10%, and particularly preferably about 2% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0075] In some embodiments, the weight ratio of wax to at least one UVA chemical sunscreen is about 7:1 to about 1:5, preferably about 5:1 to about 1:3, and more preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2.
[0076] D. Organosilicon elastomers
[0077] The photoprotective cosmetic composition contains a silicone elastomer. Preferably, the silicone elastomer is crosslinked and formed by reacting a vinyl-terminated silicone (e.g., a monovinyl-terminated silicone, a divinyl-terminated silicone, or a polyvinyl-terminated silicone) with a hydrogenated polydimethylsiloxane. More preferably, the vinyl-terminated silicone is a bis-vinyl polydimethylsiloxane. Most preferably, the silicone elastomer has the INCI name polysiloxane-11.
[0078] Silicone elastomers can be in the form of powder, solution, suspension, or gel. Preferably, the silicone elastomer is in gel form. The silicone elastomer gel can be purchased from Grant Industries under the trademark Gransil.
[0079] Based on the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition, the silicone elastomer may be present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition at a level of about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably about 1% to about 15%, most preferably about 2% to about 10%, and particularly preferably about 3% to about 5%.
[0080] In some embodiments, the weight ratio of silicone elastomer to wax is about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably about 7:1 to about 1:7, more preferably about 5:1 to about 1:5, and most preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2.
[0081] E. Liquid carrier
[0082] The protective cosmetic compositions disclosed herein may also include a liquid carrier. Such liquid carriers facilitate the formation of a stable formulation and / or the formation of a protective layer on the skin. The liquid carrier may be selected from the group consisting of water, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, esters, ethers, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid carrier of this disclosure comprises at least one silicone oil. More preferably, the at least one silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the liquid carrier of this disclosure comprises phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane.
[0083] The liquid carrier is present in the photoprotective cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 45% to about 90%, preferably from about 50% to about 80%, and more preferably from 60% to about 70% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0084] In some preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of this disclosure comprises at least one UVA chemical sunscreen, at least three UVB chemical sunscreens, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, a silicone elastomer, and a liquid carrier; wherein the at least one UVA chemical sunscreen includes butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; the at least three UVB chemical sunscreens include octocrylene, homosalate, and ethylhexyl salicylate; the sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer is butyl octyl salicylate; the wax is glyceryl trimethylolpropionate; and the silicone elastomer is polysiloxane- 11; The liquid carrier is phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane; and wherein, based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 8%, preferably about 1.5% to about 4.5%, more preferably about 2% to about 4%; based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition, octocrylene is present in an amount of about 3% to about 13%, preferably about 5% to about 12%, more preferably about 8% to about 10%; and based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition, homosalate is present in an amount of about 2% to about 15%. The following ingredients are present in an amount of approximately 4% to approximately 12%, more preferably approximately 6% to approximately 8% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition: ethylhexyl salicylate in an amount of approximately 2% to approximately 7%, preferably approximately 3% to approximately 6%, more preferably approximately 4% to approximately 5% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition; butyloctyl salicylate in an amount of approximately 1% to approximately 10%, preferably approximately 2% to approximately 8%, more preferably approximately 4% to approximately 6% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition; and triglycerides of samara in an amount greater than 1% and less than 2% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition. The composition is present in an amount of about 0%, preferably about 1.5% to about 15%, more preferably about 1.5% to about 10%, and most preferably about 2% to about 6% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition; polysiloxane-11 is present in an amount of about 1% to about 15%, preferably about 2% to about 10%, and more preferably about 3% to about 5% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition; and phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane is present in an amount of about 45% to about 90%, preferably about 50% to about 80%, and more preferably about 60% to about 70% by weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0085] In some preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of this disclosure comprises a UVA chemical sunscreen, three UVB chemical sunscreens, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, a silicone elastomer, and a liquid carrier; wherein the UVA chemical sunscreen is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 8% butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; wherein the three UVB chemical sunscreens include octocrylene present in an amount of about 3% to about 13%, homosalate present in an amount of about 2% to about 10%, and [other ingredients] present in an amount of about 2% to [other ingredients]. Ethylhexyl salicylate is present in an amount of approximately 7%; butyl octyl salicylate is present in an amount of approximately 1% to approximately 10% as a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer; glyceryl tris(trimethylammonium) is present in an amount of greater than 1% and less than 20% as a wax; polysiloxane-11 is present in an amount of approximately 1% to approximately 15% as an organosilicon elastomer; phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane is present in an amount of approximately 45% to approximately 90% as a liquid carrier; and all amounts are based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0086] In some preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition disclosed herein comprises a UVA chemical sunscreen, three UVB chemical sunscreens, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, a silicone elastomer, and a liquid carrier; wherein the UVA chemical sunscreen is present in an amount of about 2% to about 4% butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; wherein the three UVB chemical sunscreens include octocrylene present in an amount of about 8% to about 10%, homosalate present in an amount of about 6% to about 8%, and ethylhexyl salicylate present in an amount of about 4% to about 5%; wherein the sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer is butyl octyl salicylate present in an amount of about 4% to about 6%; wherein the wax is glyceryl tris(trimethylammonium)acetic acid present in an amount of about 2% to about 6%; wherein the silicone elastomer is polysiloxane-11 present in an amount of about 3% to about 5%; wherein the liquid carrier is phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane present in an amount of about 60% to about 70%; and wherein all amounts are based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0087] In some alternative, more preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition of this disclosure comprises butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane in an amount of about 0.1% to about 8%, preferably about 1.5% to about 4.5%, more preferably about 2% to about 4%; octocrylene in an amount of about 3% to about 13%, preferably about 5% to about 12%, more preferably about 8% to about 10%; homosalate in an amount of about 2% to about 15%, preferably about 4% to about 12%, more preferably about 6% to about 8%; ethylhexyl salicylate in an amount of about 2% to about 7%, preferably about 3% to about 6%, more preferably about 4% to about 5%; octyl salicylate in an amount of about 1% to about 10%, preferably about 2% to about 8%, more preferably about 4% to about 6%; and more than 1% and less than 20%, preferably about 1.5% to about 15%, more preferably about 1.5% to about 10%, more preferably about 2% to about 8%. The composition comprises: glyceryl trimethylolpropionate present in an amount of about 2% to about 6%; polysiloxane-11 present in an amount of about 1% to about 15%, preferably about 2% to about 10%, more preferably about 3% to about 5%; and phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane present in an amount of about 45% to about 90%, preferably about 50% to about 80%, more preferably about 60% to about 70%; wherein the weight ratio of glyceryl trimethylolpropionate to butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is about 7:1 to about 1:5, preferably about 5:1 to about 1:3, more preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2; and wherein the weight ratio of polysiloxane-11 to glyceryl trimethylolpropionate is about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably about 7:1 to about 1:7, more preferably about 5:1 to about 1:5, most preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2; wherein the photoprotective cosmetic composition is anhydrous; and wherein all amounts are based on the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0088] In some alternative preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition disclosed herein comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane in an amount of about 1.5% to about 4.5%, octocrylene in an amount of about 5% to about 12%, homosalate in an amount of about 4% to about 12%, ethylhexyl salicylate in an amount of about 3% to about 6%, butyloctyl salicylate in an amount of about 2% to about 8%, and tris(hydroxyethyl)-2-hydroxymethyl ether in an amount of about 1.5% to about 15%. The composition comprises glyceryl ester, polysiloxane-11 present in an amount of about 2% to about 10%, and phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane present in an amount of about 50% to about 80%; wherein the weight ratio of glyceryl tris(t)-methylhexanoate to butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is about 5:1 to about 1:3; wherein the weight ratio of polysiloxane-11 to glyceryl tris(t)-methylhexanoate is about 7:1 to about 1:7; wherein the photoprotective cosmetic composition is anhydrous; and wherein all amounts are based on the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0089] In some particularly preferred embodiments, the photoprotective cosmetic composition disclosed herein comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane in an amount of about 2% to about 4%, octocrylene in an amount of about 8% to about 10%, homosalate in an amount of about 6% to about 8%, ethylhexyl salicylate in an amount of about 4% to about 5%, butyloctyl salicylate in an amount of about 4% to about 6%, glyceryl tris(t-xyl)-3-hedrin in an amount of about 2% to about 6%, polysiloxane-11 in an amount of about 3% to about 5%, and phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane in an amount of 60% to about 70%; wherein the weight ratio of glyceryl tris(t-xyl)-3-hedrin to butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is about 2:1 to about 1:2; and wherein the weight ratio of polysiloxane-11 to glyceryl tris(t-xyl)-3-hedrin is about 2:1 to about 1:2; wherein the photoprotective cosmetic composition is anhydrous; and wherein all amounts are based on the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
[0090] F. Additional ingredients
[0091] The photoprotective cosmetic compositions described herein may contain additional active agents. The type of active agent added may be any type suitable for topical application. For example, the composition may also contain moisturizing active substances, agents for treating age spots, keratosis, and wrinkles, as well as anti-acne agents, antibacterial agents, anti-yeast agents, antifungal agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-dermatitis agents, antipruritic agents, anti-irritant agents, anti-dryness agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, additional sunscreen agents, antihistamines, skin whitening agents, bleaching agents, wound healing agents, vitamins, or self-tanning agents. The active agents described above are optional components of the photoprotective cosmetic compositions and may be omitted without significantly affecting the photoprotective function of the sunscreen composition.
[0092] Photoprotective cosmetic compositions may also contain emollients, which may be, but are not limited to, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, fatty alcohol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2-octadecyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isostearic acid, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, palmitic acid. Isobutyl ester, cetyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitic acid, dimethyl polysiloxane, glyceryl monoricinoleate, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, acetylated lanolin, sesame oil, coconut oil, peanut oil, castor oil, mink oil, mineral oil, and petroleum.
[0093] Preservatives may also be added to photoprotective cosmetic compositions to provide extended shelf life. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, potassium sorbate, imidazolidinyl urea, hydroxy benzoate, parabens, CTFA-named parabens, ethylhexylglycerin, octyl glycol / phenoxyethanol / hexanediol, etc. Other suitable preservatives for use in photoprotective cosmetic compositions are disclosed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12th edition, 2004, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0094] The humectants that may be used include, but are not limited to, polyols, including glycerin, polyalkylene glycols and mixtures thereof, hyaluronic acid, urea, glycerin, sorbitol, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, soluble collagen, dibutyl phthalate and gelatin.
[0095] The photoprotective cosmetic composition may optionally contain a fragrance in an amount sufficient to make the composition more attractive to consumers. Preferably, the fragrance is present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 10% (w / w) based on the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Photoprotective cosmetic compositions may also contain powders, such as organic or inorganic powders, soft-burn powders, plate-like non-spherical powders, such as bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, barium sulfate, mica, sericite, muscovite, synthetic mica, titanium dioxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide-coated talc, flake iron oxide, metal powders (such as aluminum), lauroyl lysine, and flake talc. The amount of such powders is not critical, but if used, they will generally be present in amounts from about 0.5% to about 5% (w / w).
[0097] Photoprotective cosmetic compositions may also contain additional ingredients, such as, but not limited to, structuring agents, surfactants, pigments, modifiers, and dyes.
[0098] Experiments and Examples
[0099] The following representative embodiments are intended to help illustrate the invention and are not intended to, nor should they be construed as, limiting the scope of the invention. In fact, various modifications and many further embodiments of the invention, in addition to those shown and described herein, will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the entirety of this document (including the following embodiments and references to the scientific and patent literature cited herein). The following embodiments contain important additional information, illustrations, and guidance that can be adapted to practice the invention in its various embodiments and equivalents.
[0100] Example 1: Exemplary Composition and In Vitro SPF
[0101] The components used to prepare the exemplary composition are: Dowsil 556 Cos Grade Fluid / SF1550 (purchased from Dow Corning, INCI: phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane), Parsol 340 (purchased from DSM, INCI: octocrylene), Eusolex HMS / Neo Heliopan HMS (purchased from Merck or Symrise, INCI: homosalyl ester), Hallbrite BHB (purchased from Hallstar, INCI: butyl octyl salicylate), Neo Heliopan OS (purchased from Symrise, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate), Parsol 1789 (purchased from DSM, INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), Syncrowax HR-C (purchased from Croda, INCI: glyceryl tris(trimethylammonium)hexyl ester), and Gransil PM-LC (20% phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane solution, purchased from Grant Industries, INCI: polysiloxane-11).
[0102] Exemplary compositions (samples 1 to 22, as shown in Tables 1 to 3, which show a list of ingredients and corresponding amounts for each exemplary composition) were prepared according to the following procedure: 1) combining a chemical sunscreen, butyl octyl salicylate, phenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, and glyceryl tris(trimethylammonium)hexanoate and heating to 90°C, mixing until the solution was clear; 2) cooling the solution obtained in step 1) to 70°C; 3) adding polysiloxane-11 to the solution obtained in step 2) and continuing to mix until homogeneous; 4) cooling the mixture obtained in step 3) to room temperature.
[0103] The in vitro sun protection factor (in vitro SPF) value of the exemplary composition was measured using a spectrophotometer (e.g., a Labsphere UV-2000S UV transmittance analyzer) and calculated according to the procedures described for in vitro testing in the guidelines published by COLIPA (European Association of Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances) in 2011. “In vitro SPF” is defined by COLIPA as “the absolute protective efficacy of a sunscreen against erythema-causing radiation, calculated based on transmittance measured in vitro and weighted by the erythema-effect spectrum.” Such “in vitro SPF” includes consideration of UVA radiation protection in a manner distinct from the sun protection factor (SPF) ratings currently used to label commercial photoprotective cosmetic products against focused UVB radiation. Nevertheless, it is recognized in the art that such “in vitro SPF” values are very useful for determining the relative photoprotective efficacy of different cosmetic compositions.
[0104] Tables 1, 2 and 3 show exemplary compositions (samples 1 to 22) and their in vitro SPF values.
[0105] Experimental data from samples 1 to 11 show that, without changing the sunscreen composition, samples 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11 exhibit a synergistic sun protection enhancement effect when compared with samples 1 (with wax but no elastomer), 5 (with elastomer but no wax), and 8 (without wax and no elastomer).
[0106] As the experimental data show, the weight percentage of wax and the weight ratio of wax to sunscreen or silicone elastomer are crucial for synergistic effects. For example, although Sample 11 contained a higher amount of wax (glyceryl trimethylolpropionate, 20%) than Sample 10 (15%), the in vitro SPF value of Sample 11 was significantly lower than that of Sample 10. Furthermore, Sample 6, with a lower wax content (glyceryl trimethylolpropionate, 1%), did not show a synergistic effect, even though the elastomer and sunscreen of Sample 6 were the same as those of Samples 3 and 7.
[0107] Samples 20, 21, and 22 show that when the composition contains very small amounts of sunscreen, the addition of waxes and elastomers does not trigger a meaningful synergistic effect. Meanwhile, samples 12, 13, 14, and 15 show that when the composition contains adequate amounts of sunscreen, the addition of waxes and elastomers still results in a significant synergistic effect. This synergistic effect is also present in compositions with high sunscreen concentrations, as shown in the experimental data for samples 16, 17, 18, and 19.
[0108]
[0109]
[0110]
[0111] The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be construed as strictly limited to the precise numerical values recorded. Rather, unless otherwise stated, each such dimension is intended to refer to the recorded value and the range of functionally equivalent values around that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm”.
[0112] Every document cited herein, including any cross-reference or related patent or application, is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. A reference to any document does not imply that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein, nor does it imply that it, alone or in any combination of any other references, teaches, implies, or discloses any such invention. Furthermore, in the event of any conflict between the meaning or definition of a term in this document and the meaning or definition of the same term in any document incorporated herein by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall prevail.
[0113] While specific embodiments of the invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Therefore, the appended claims are intended to cover all such changes and modifications falling within the scope of the invention.
Claims
1. A photoprotective cosmetic composition comprising at least one chemical sunscreen agent, a sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer, a wax, and a silicone elastomer; wherein, based on the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition, the total amount of the at least one chemical sunscreen agent is in the range of about 10% to about 40%, the amount of the sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer is in the range of about 1% to about 10%, the wax is present at a level greater than 1% and less than 20% by weight, and the amount of the silicone elastomer is in the range of about 0.1% to about 20%.
2. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one chemical sunscreen agent comprises at least one UVA chemical sunscreen agent and at least one UVB chemical sunscreen agent.
3. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the at least one UVA chemical sunscreen agent comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
4. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein at least one UVB chemical sunscreen agent comprises at least three UVB chemical sunscreen agents selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, 4-methylbenzyl camphor, orsinolate, sinoxalate, benzophenone 3, benzophenone 4, benzophenone 5, humosalicylate, PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate, DEA-salicylate, and mixtures thereof.
5. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the at least three UVB chemical sunscreens include octocrylene, homosalate, and ethylhexyl salicylate.
6. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the total amount of the at least one UVA chemical sunscreen agent is in the range of about 0.1% to about 8% based on the total weight of the photoprotective cosmetic composition.
7. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the total amount of the at least one UVB chemical sunscreen agent is in the range of about 5% to about 40% based on the weight of the total photoprotective cosmetic composition.
8. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the sunscreen solubilizer / stabilizer is selected from the group consisting of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, butyl octyl salicylate, PPG-15 stearyl ether benzoate, dioctyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
9. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax is naturally occurring.
10. The photoprotective cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the wax comprises esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids.
11. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer is a crosslinked polymer formed by the reaction of vinyl-terminated silicone with hydrogenated polydimethylsiloxane.
12. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the silicone elastomer to the wax is about 10:1 to about 1:
10.
13. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the wax to the at least one UVA chemical sunscreen is from about 7:1 to about 1:
5.
14. The photoprotective cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the photoprotective cosmetic composition is anhydrous.
Citation Information
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