Method for producing a shoe upper

Abstract

Method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305), comprising the steps: a. Providing (110) at least one stretchable region (210; 310) on the shoe upper (200; 305); b. Providing (112) at least one stretch yarn in the at least one stretchable region (210; 310); c. Providing at least one area without stretch yarn on the shoe upper; d. Stretching (120) the at least one stretchable region (210; 310) of the shoe upper (200; 305) to adjust a size of the shoe upper (200; 305); and e. permanently attaching (130) at least one rigid element (220; 320) at least partially to the stretched stretchable region (210; 310) so that the stretched stretchable region (210; 310) is locked.

Description

1. Technical area

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for producing a shoe upper, to a shoe upper and to a shoe. 2, State of the art

[0002] Generally, a shoe upper provides coverage for the foot, comfortably accommodating it and positioning it securely relative to the shoe sole. Furthermore, the shoe upper can be configured to protect the foot and provide ventilation, cooling the foot and wicking away sweat. As the requirements for shoe uppers become increasingly demanding, ensuring high stability for sports applications and sufficient comfort for everyday wear, the manufacturing of shoe uppers becomes increasingly difficult.

[0003] Methods for manufacturing shoe uppers, such as those disclosed in GB 1 235 960 A, US 4 134 955 A, US 2005 / 0 115 284 A1, US 2012 / 0 255 201 A1, are generally very complex and labor-intensive. Furthermore, the production of different sizes of shoe uppers, depending on the sizing system of the country in which they are sold, increases manufacturing costs.

[0004] US 5 123 181 A discloses a shoe construction which enables manually operable strap adjustment by means of a shoe upper with a width-adjustable lower part and a substantially concealed, removable strap fastener arranged between the lower part of the shoe upper and the sole.

[0005] However, such a well-known method does not provide the desired stability and comfort because it uses Velcro fasteners and stiff leather.

[0006] US 2,147,197 A relates to footwear articles and methods for their manufacture. A complete, integral, stretchable, and elastic shoe upper without an inner lining is formed, preferably by knitting in its final form without waste. The use of various yarns is proposed.

[0007] DE 100 22 254 A1 relates to footwear comprising a profiled sole and an upper with an open end portion on the sole side. At least part of the circumference of the end portion is elastically pre-tensioned toward the center of the profiled sole by an elastic drawstring.

[0008] DE 690 18 485 T2 relates to a method for producing molded footwear with a desired width, the method comprising the steps of: molding the structure of a footwear having an upper portion, a lower portion, and a sole with a thermoplastic material; providing the sole of the footwear with a weakened region to allow a certain lateral displacement of the lower part, and finally pressing the lower part of the footwear over a width adjustment device to adapt the lower part of the molded footwear to the desired width setting.

[0009] DE 10 2012 206 062 A1 relates to a shoe upper for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, which has a first section and a second section which are jointly manufactured as a knitted fabric, wherein in only one section the knitted fabric is reinforced by a coating made of a polymer material applied to the shoe upper.

[0010] EP 2 815 668 A1 relates to a method for manufacturing a shoe, the method comprising the steps of: attaching a sock-shaped base element forming part of an upper to a last portion of a core, the core comprising a core imprint and the last portion; attaching the core to an outer mold; supplying a molten resin to form a reinforcing element and / or a sole element between the outer mold and the base element; and allowing the molten resin to harden, thereby integrally forming the reinforcing element and / or the sole element.

[0011] US 2015 / 0 342 285 A1 relates to a footwear item consisting of a seamless ankle boot or textile upper material consisting of a knitted component removed from a knitted textile element with a uniform warp-knit construction.

[0012] DE 10 2013 221 020 A1 relates to a method for producing a shoe, a device for carrying out such a method, and a shoe produced by such a method. According to one aspect of the invention, a method for producing a shoe is provided, which comprises providing a three-dimensionally preformed first shoe component and processing the three-dimensionally preformed first shoe component, wherein the processing comprises an individually controllable sequence of processing steps.

[0013] US 4 317 292 A discloses the provision of a sock using a yarn.

[0014] The underlying problem of the present invention is therefore to provide an improved method for producing shoe uppers in order to at least partially overcome the above-mentioned deficiencies of the prior art. 3. Summary of the invention

[0015] The above-mentioned problem is at least partially solved by a method for manufacturing a shoe upper according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the method comprises the steps of (a) providing at least one stretchable region on the shoe upper, (b) stretching the at least one stretchable region of the shoe upper to adjust a size of the shoe upper, and (c) permanently attaching at least one rigid element at least partially to the stretched stretchable region so that the stretched stretchable region is locked in place.

[0016] The claimed invention enables the production of an adjustable shoe upper that more efficiently provides stability and comfort for sports applications. The provision of at least one stretchable area on the shoe upper significantly simplifies the process of supplying shoe uppers of different sizes, as it is no longer necessary to produce many different sizes of shoe uppers. Rather, only certain sizes of shoe uppers can be produced and stretched to the desired intermediate sizes. For example, it would be sufficient to provide shoe uppers in even integer sizes of the European sizing system (Paris points) such as 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, etc., and then stretch them to intermediate sizes such as 36 2 / 3, 37 1 / 3, 38 2 / 3, 39 1 / 3, 40 2 / 3, etc. The stretching is facilitated by the stretchable area and permanently fixed in its intermediate size by the rigid element.

[0017] In the context of the present invention, the term “rigid element” is used to refer to a non-extensible element, i.e. an element that is dimensionally stable under external tensile stress.

[0018] Thus, by stretching at least one stretchable area of ​​the shoe, a configurable size system can be created, e.g. only a half, a third, a quarter, etc. of the usual sizes of the shoe upper, so that only a half, a third, or a quarter, etc. of the lasts are needed and thus the manufacturing costs can be significantly reduced.

[0019] Furthermore, the permanent attachment of at least one rigid element, at least partially on the stretched stretchable area, allows the stretched stretchable area to be locked in place, so that the shoe upper can ensure sufficient stability of the shoe upper. For example, the rigid element and the stretched stretchable area can be firmly connected to each other by a seam, so that the size and / or width of the shoe upper can be fixed. If a shoe sole is used as a rigid element, even more stability can be achieved for the entire shoe upper. Furthermore, the permanent attachment can increase wearing comfort. For example, the shoe upper can fit snugly against the last and thus offer excellent wearing comfort, avoiding skin irritations when wearing such a shoe upper. Therefore, these aspects are important for both sporting applications, e.g., football, and leisure applications, e.g.,when walking through the city during an excursion, important.

[0020] This significantly reduces the overall process time, labor costs, and manufacturing costs for producing a shoe upper, as the reduced number of different shoe uppers reduces inventory costs.

[0021] In one embodiment, the at least one stretchable region is provided at least partially in a lower part of the shoe upper. This aspect of the present invention significantly improves the stability of the shoe upper, since the lower part represents the interface between the shoe upper and the sole. If the shoe sole is used as a rigid element, the step of locking the size of the shoe upper and the step of attaching the shoe sole to the shoe upper can be performed in a single operation. This further optimizes the overall process. By providing the stretchable region in the lower part of the shoe upper, the stretchable region may not be visible and would not be located on a sensitive part of the foot, thus making the overall impression of the manufactured shoe more attractive and preventing blisters on the foot.

[0022] In some embodiments, the method may further comprise the step of molding the shoe upper, wherein the shoe upper is integral and continuous from a medial side to a lateral side, preferably in an instep portion of the shoe upper. In contrast to conventional shoe uppers, in which a tongue opening of the shoe upper is stretched to adjust the shoe upper to a last, omitting a tongue and a corresponding opening is simpler because further method steps for molding the tongue and the tongue opening can be omitted. Furthermore, such a method can be more efficient because incorrect insertion of the last into the shoe upper due to an interfering tongue element can be avoided. Furthermore, it is also possible to produce a shoe upper without laces, which provides the wearer's foot with exceptional stability inside the shoe upper, particularly for sports applications.

[0023] In one embodiment, the at least one stretchable region is stretched more than any other region on the shoe upper during the stretching step of the stretchable region. This is achieved in particular by making the stretchable region more stretchable than the other regions of the shoe upper. This ensures that most of the forces during stretching act on the stretchable region of the shoe upper, so that another region of the shoe upper is not damaged before the stretched, stretchable region is locked. This significantly minimizes the error rate of the manufacturing process and potential production waste.

[0024] In one embodiment, the shoe upper is a sock-like shoe upper. For example, with a sock-like shoe upper, no seams are required, further simplifying the manufacturing process. This eliminates certain manufacturing steps and / or machines for sewing the shoe upper together.

[0025] In one embodiment, the shoe upper is knitted. Furthermore, the shoe upper can be formed using a small circular knitting technique. For example, a small circular knitting machine can knit the shoe upper in one piece as a sock. In detail, the setting of such a machine can be specific to provide a sock with specific technical properties that allow it to be used as the upper of a shoe, particularly a sports shoe. The inventors have recognized for the first time that such a shoe upper further improves the overall manufacturing process without compromising the stability and comfort of the shoe upper. The small circular knitting machine can produce shoe uppers fully automatically.

[0026] Alternatively, the shoe upper can be formed using a large circular knitting technique or a flat knitting technique and manufactured from a flat-knitted piece. This first flat-knitted piece is then formed into a 3D shape using a sewing step. In this particular embodiment, the stretchable area of ​​the shoe upper can be defined by sections separated on the flat-knitted piece and joined together by the sewing step.

[0027] In one embodiment, the attached rigid element completely covers the stretchable area. Furthermore, the rigid element can be a shoe sole. This allows the shoe upper to be locked in an even more stable configuration. Furthermore, such a rigid element further simplifies the production of a shoe upper, as no additional element other than the shoe sole needs to be attached to the shoe upper, which is required to produce a complete shoe anyway. Thus, the process provides the highest stability for a shoe upper while using the minimum number of key elements—namely, the shoe upper and the shoe sole—further reducing the overall process time.

[0028] In one embodiment, two or more stretchable areas are provided. Providing multiple stretchable areas can further improve the process of adjusting the shoe upper as described above, since the forces occurring during stretching are absorbed by more than one stretchable area. This allows for increased increments of different shoe upper sizes, e.g., only every second or third full size needs to be provided during the manufacturing process, thus further reducing manufacturing costs.

[0029] In one embodiment, the step of stretching the stretchable area is performed by inserting a last into the shoe upper. Using a last for stretching can ensure that the stretched shoe upper better conforms to the anatomy of the human foot. Alternatively or additionally, the last can be custom-made according to the customer's foot specifications, so that the stretching step allows for a closer fit of the shoe upper to the customer's foot.

[0030] The last can also be inflatable. Using an inflatable last like this can further improve the stretching step after molding the shoe upper, as the size of the shoe upper can be adjusted more precisely and with greater accuracy. An inflatable last that can be inflated to different sizes also eliminates the need to provide a different last for each individual size. This saves overall manufacturing costs and simplifies the production process.

[0031] The method further comprises the step of providing at least one stretch yarn in the at least one stretchable region. The method also comprises the step of providing at least one region without stretch yarn on the shoe upper. The inventors have recognized that such yarns have better stretch properties, so that the manufacturing process can be further optimized. Furthermore, they have recognized that some areas of the foot must be fixed in the shoe upper, i.e., that these areas require less stretchability to ensure sufficient stability of the foot in every direction during movement.

[0032] In some embodiments, the method may further comprise the step of providing a first knit structure on the shoe upper and providing a second knit structure in the at least one stretchable region, wherein the second knit structure is more stretchable than the first knit structure. Such embodiments enable the production of a shoe upper with high stability in corresponding regions, as the advantages of different knit structures can be utilized. For example, a first knit structure may be a coarse meshed fabric that offers better breathability, while a second knit structure may be more stretchable to allow for stretching of the shoe upper during the manufacturing process.

[0033] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a shoe upper manufactured as described above. As explained above, such a shoe upper offers the wearer high stability and comfort, since the stretchable area allows the size of the shoe upper to be adjusted to the dimensions of the wearer's foot.

[0034] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a shoe having a shoe upper as described above. 4. Short description of the characters

[0035] Possible embodiments of the present invention are described in more detail in the following detailed description with reference to the following figures: Fig. 1: shows a flowchart illustrating exemplary method steps for manufacturing shoe uppers according to certain aspects of the present disclosure; Fig.2a - 2c: show schematic embodiments of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 3 shows a schematic embodiment of a shoe with a shoe upper according to the invention.; Fig. 4: schematic representation of textile structures that can be used for the present invention; Fig. 5: three different interfaces of a warp-knitted fabric that can be used for the present invention; Fig. 6: Row and wales of a knitted fabric that can be used for the present invention; Fig. 7: Stitch formation using latch needles when knitting; Fig. 8: Cross-sectional views of fibers for yarns used in knitwear and which can be used for the present invention; Fig.9: Front view and back view of a knitted fabric that can be used for the present invention; Fig. 10A: an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 10B: an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 10C: an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 11: an embodiment of a shoe according to the invention; Fig. 12: another embodiment of a shoe according to the invention; Fig. 13: a material card for the embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 14: an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 15A: an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig.15B: a machine knitting sequence for a single-layer embodiment of an elongated hollow knit structure for a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 15C: an exploded view of part of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 16A: an elongated hollow knit structure for use in an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 16B: an elongated hollow knit structure for use in an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 16C: a machine knitting sequence for an elongated hollow knit structure knitted on a small circular knitting machine; Fig. 16D: an elongated hollow knit structure folded into a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 16E: an elongated hollow knit structure folded into a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 16F: an exploded view of a portion of an elongated hollow knit structure folded and formed in accordance with the invention to form one embodiment of a shoe upper; Fig. 17A: a view of the sole of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 17B: an exploded view of the sole of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 18: a media representation of the embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 19A: a machine knitting sequence for an elongated hollow knit structure knitted on a small circular knitting machine; Fig. 19B: a plan view of the embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 20: a medial perspective view of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 21: a plan view of the embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 22: a side view of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 23: a plan view of an illustrative example of a yarn distribution for a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 24: a side view of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 25: a rear view of an embodiment of a shoe upper, in particular the heel and ankle area, according to the invention; Fig. 26: a medial side view of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 27: a plan view of the embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 28: a perspective view of the embodiment of the shoe upper according to the invention; Fig.29: a side view of the embodiments of shoe uppers according to the invention; Fig. 30: a side view of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 31: a side view of an embodiment of a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 32: a view of the embodiment of an elongated hollow knit structure for a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 33: View of an embodiment of an elongated hollow knit structure for a shoe upper according to the invention; Fig. 34: View of an embodiment of an elongated hollow knit structure for a shoe upper according to the invention Fig. 35: a machine knitting sequence for an elongated hollow knit structure knitted on a small circular knitting machine; Fig.36: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the strength at 20% elongation along a knitting row; Fig. 37: a graph showing the influence of the different parameters on the strength at an elongation of 20% along a knitted wale; Fig. 38: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the maximum strength along a knitting row; Fig. 39: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the maximum strength along a knitted wale; Fig. 40: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the maximum elongation along a knitting row; Fig. 41: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the maximum elongation along a knitted wale; Fig.42: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the mass per unit area; Fig. 43: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the thickness of the textile; Fig. 44: a graph showing the influence of different parameters on the air permeability of the textile; Fig. 45: a graph showing the maximum strength for the different zones; Fig. 46: a graph showing the mass per unit area for the different zones; Fig. 47: a graph showing the air permeability for the different zones; Fig. 48A: a textile sample with a base yarn; Fig. 48B: a textile sample with a base yarn and an elastic plating yarn which is semi-plated; Fig.48C: a textile sample with a base yarn and an elastic plating yarn that is fully coated; Fig. 49: a representation of a knitted row with a lining yarn; Fig. 50: Front side of a textile sample with a lining yarn; Fig. 51: Back of a textile sample with a lining yarn; Fig. 52: an illustrative example of a shoe according to the invention; Fig. 53: Table 4: Specified properties for zones of a lightweight shoe upper; Fig. 54: Table 5: Standard machine parameters; Fig. 55: Table 6: Range of parameter values; Fig. 56: Table 7: Influence of parameters on strength at 20% elongation along a knitted row; Fig. 57: Table 8: Influence of parameters on strength at 20% elongation along a wale; Fig.58: Table 9: Influence of parameters on the maximum strength along the row; Fig. 59: Table 10: Influence of parameters on the maximum strength along the wale; Fig. 60: Table 11: Influence of parameters on the strain along a row (Δεmax row); Fig. 61: Table 12: Change in strain along a wale (Δεmax wale); Fig. 62: Table 13: Influence of parameters on mass / area; Fig. 63: Table 14: Influence of parameters on textile thickness; Fig. 64: Table 15: Influence of parameters on air permeability; Fig. 65: Table 16: Influence of parameters on textile properties; Fig. 66: Table 17: Knitting parameter values ​​for a lightweight running shoe; Fig. 67: Table 19: Average guideline values ​​for textile properties; Fig. 68: Table 20: Parameters for use in the shoe upper strength zone; Fig. 69: Table 21: Parameters for use in the shoe upper elasticity zone; Fig. 70: Table 22: Parameters for use in the shoe upper cushioning zone; Fig. 71: Table 23: Parameters for use in the shoe upper collar zone; and Fig. 72: Table 24: Parameters for use in the shoe upper high permeability zone. 5. Detailed description of preferred embodiments

[0036] Various embodiments of the present invention are described in the following detailed description. However, it should be understood that the present invention is not limited to these embodiments. The method described herein can be used for the manufacture of shoe uppers in general, such as athletic shoes, casual shoes, lace-up shoes, or boots such as work boots.

[0037] It should also be noted that the individual embodiments of the invention are described in more detail below. However, it will be clear to those skilled in the art that the design possibilities and optional features described with reference to these specific embodiments can be further modified and combined in various ways within the scope of the present invention, and that individual steps or features can also be omitted if they appear unnecessary to those skilled in the art. To avoid redundancies, reference is made to the embodiments in the preceding sections, which also apply to the embodiments of the following detailed description.

[0038] Fig.1 shows a flow chart illustrating, by way of example, the method steps 100 for producing shoe uppers according to certain aspects of the present disclosure. The method steps 100 can, for example, be carried out by one or more manufacturing units. The method steps 100 can begin at step 110 by providing at least one stretchable region on the shoe upper. The stretchable region can, for example, be provided with a stretch fabric, e.g., 2-way or 4-way stretch, made of a stretchable material such as elastane, e.g., LYCRA®, neoprene, or the like. In general, the method step 110 does not have to be limited to a specific material and / or a specific technique. It is also possible for the stretchable region to be provided in different areas of the shoe upper during the manufacturing process using different forming techniques.

[0039] In one embodiment, the at least one stretchable region can be provided at least partially in a lower part of the shoe upper. For example, the stretchable region can be provided over the entire lower part of the shoe upper, so that the number of sizes for the shoe upper to be manufactured can be further reduced, as described above. It is also possible to provide two or more stretchable regions, which can further improve this aspect. Furthermore, a shoe upper with a plurality of stretchable regions can mean improved stability, since each of the stretchable regions can be locked with a rigid element. Furthermore, another stretchable region can be provided in another part of the shoe upper, such as the heel part, the toe part, and / or the midfoot part, which must not be locked with the at least one rigid element.The advantage of a football boot without laces is that the wearer can quickly put on and / or change the boot during a training situation, a game situation or similar.

[0040] As in Fig.1, step 110 comprises step 112 in which at least one stretch yarn is provided in the at least one stretchable region. Such a method step advantageously enables the possibility of incorporating the stretchable region directly into the shoe upper, so that the manufacturing process can be further improved. The stretch yarn can be individually selected depending on the production method of the shoe upper, e.g., knitting. The stretch yarn can contain a mixture of different natural fibers and / or synthetic fibers and / or a combination thereof. It is also possible for the stretch yarn to be present in the entire shoe upper. For example, the shoe upper can be a sock-like shoe upper including the stretch yarn, wherein the sock-like shoe upper can be produced using a circular knitting technique as described above.

[0041] Furthermore, step 112 may include step 114 of providing at least one less stretchable region on the shoe upper. The less stretchable region may not be stretchable or may only be stretchable to a degree that is less than the degree of stretchability of the stretchable region.

[0042] In particular, the at least one less stretchable region is provided without stretch yarn in step 114. Alternatively or additionally, the at least one less stretchable region may include one or more elements for limiting the stretchability. For example, if the at least one less stretchable region is a knitted region, these elements may be one or more inserted yarns or strands that limit the stretchability of the region. The elements may also be attached to the less stretchable region at their ends with bands to limit its maximum extension.

[0043] The at least one less stretchable region may also consist of a melt yarn and be at least partially melted or provided with a dimensionally stable polymer skin that is glued to it.

[0044] As already mentioned, the inventors recognized that certain areas of the foot must be secured within the shoe upper, meaning that these areas require less stretch to ensure sufficient stability of the foot in all directions during movement. In sports applications such as soccer, the midfoot may need to be more strongly stabilized to prevent unwanted slipping of the foot within the shoe upper, which typically leads to skin irritations, such as blisters.

[0045] As in Fig.1, step 110 may further comprise the step 116 of providing a first knit structure on the shoe upper and a second knit structure in the at least one stretchable region. The use of different knit structures may be a promising alternative instead of using different materials for the stretchable region of the shoe upper. A first knit structure may, for example, be a coarse-mesh woven fabric, while a second knit structure may be more stretchable, such as a knitted fabric, e.g., stockinette stitch. Furthermore, the shoe upper may be a sock-like shoe upper with such knit structures, wherein the sock-like shoe upper may be produced using a circular knitting technique. Alternatively or additionally, any other combination of two suitable knit structures, e.g., knitted stitches and stitch patterns with different stretch properties, may be suitable for the manufacturing process.

[0046] As in Fig.1, step 110 may further comprise the step 118 of shaping the shoe upper, wherein the shoe upper is integral and continuous from a medial side to a lateral side, preferably in an instep portion of the shoe upper. As explained above, manufacturing may be more efficient because such a shoe upper does not require the provision of a tongue portion, so that a tongue opening of the shoe upper is stretched to adjust the shoe upper to a last. In particular, shoe uppers without lacing for sports applications such as soccer, basketball, running, or the like may be manufactured using such a method step. For example, a sewing station may sew a shoe upper having at least one stretchable region from a two-dimensional surface onto the three-dimensional shoe upper.It is also possible for this step to be carried out by a worker or in a fully automated process, whereby this step can be controlled by a central computer unit and / or set up and monitored by one or more people.

[0047] The method 100 continues with a step 120 in which the at least one stretchable region of the shoe upper is stretched to adjust a size of the shoe upper. For example, a last may be inserted into the shoe upper to stretch it. As explained above, using a last for stretching can ensure that the stretched shoe upper better conforms to the anatomy of a human foot. Alternatively or additionally, the last can be custom-manufactured based on customer foot data, e.g., by 3D printing, so that the stretching step enables a closer fit of the shoe upper to the customer foot.

[0048] In one embodiment, the last can be inflatable. The last can, for example, be a balloon made of a very flexible membrane and inflated to stretch the shoe upper. The advantage is that, compared to a non-inflatable last, such a process step can prevent material defects during the manufacturing process, such as tearing of the shoe upper.

[0049] In one embodiment, step 120 of stretching the at least one stretchable region of the shoe upper to adjust a size of the shoe upper can be performed by one or more robotic arms. For example, the robotic arms can grasp different parts of the shoe upper and move in different directions so that the stretchable region of the shoe upper can be stretched.

[0050] Again, all these embodiments follow the same idea that the number of different sizes of shoe uppers can be reduced during the manufacturing process and thus the inventory and manufacturing costs can be reduced.

[0051] In step 130, at least one rigid element is permanently attached to the stretched stretchable region, thereby locking the stretched stretchable region in place. For example, the at least one rigid element, such as a fabric patch, and the stretched stretchable region can be permanently joined by a seam, thereby defining the size and / or width of the shoe upper. Alternatively, the rigid element can be glued and / or welded to the stretchable region.

[0052] In one embodiment, the attached rigid element can completely cover the stretchable area. This allows for more stable permanent attachment, e.g., in sports applications where high forces can occur during movements such as sprinting, deceleration, etc. It is also possible to use a shoe sole as a rigid element to permanently fix the stretchable area. The shoe sole can be attached to the stretchable area by gluing, sewing, welding, etc.

[0053] As a result, the method 100 reduces the overall process time, labor costs, and manufacturing costs for producing a shoe upper because the reduced number of different shoe uppers reduces inventory and manufacturing costs.

[0054] In addition, using rigid strips in the manufacturing process reduces costs even further, as only a reduced number of strips are required.

[0055] Fig.5a - 5c show schematic representations of a shoe upper 200 according to the invention.

[0056] Fig. Figure 2a shows a side view of the shoe upper 200, which has a stretched, stretchable region 210 in the lower part. Furthermore, the stretched, stretchable region 210 is permanently locked in place by a rigid element 220. The rigid element 220, such as a fabric patch, can be sewn, glued, welded, or similarly attached to the stretched, stretchable region 210. In one embodiment, the rigid element 220 can be made of polyurethane (PU) and / or thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) to achieve better adhesive properties to a shoe sole made of PU and / or TPU.

[0057] Fig.Figure 2b shows a side view of another embodiment. Here, the shoe upper 200 is integral and continuous from a medial side to the lateral side of the shoe upper 200 and consists of a stretched, stretchable region 210 in the instep portion of the shoe upper 200. Furthermore, a rigid element 220, which may be a fabric patch, can be sewn, glued, welded, or similarly bonded to the stretched, stretchable region 210. It is also conceivable that, for sports applications such as soccer, rugby, or American football, the rigid element 220 in the instep portion of the shoe upper 200 may include a cushioning element to protect the wearer's foot when kicking a ball and / or a traction element to improve slip resistance when kicking a ball.

[0058] Fig.Figure 2c shows a plan view of another embodiment. Here, the shoe upper 200 can be provided as a shoe upper with a two-dimensional surface before the shoe upper 200 can be three-dimensionally formed and consists of two stretchable regions 210 in the lower part of the shoe upper. The two edges 230, which extend from a toe part to a heel part of the shoe upper on the lower part of the shoe upper 200, can be connected after the three-dimensional forming using a suitable technique such as sewing, gluing, welding, or the like.

[0059] Fig. Figure 3 shows a schematic representation of a shoe 300 with a shoe upper 305 according to the invention. The shoe upper 305 can be one of the shoe uppers 200 according to Fig.5a - 5c. The shoe upper 305 consists of a stretched, stretchable area 310 in the lower part. Furthermore, the stretched, stretchable area 310 is permanently locked by a rigid element 320. The attached rigid element 320 can completely cover the stretchable area 310. In the embodiment of Fig. 3, the rigid element 320 may also be the shoe sole of the shoe 300. In one embodiment, the shoe sole may consist of a plurality of randomly arranged TPU particles.

[0060] The following discloses exemplary, non-limiting embodiments of the present invention and background information: Since the present invention relates to the knitting of a shoe upper or a component thereof, industrial knitting will first be described before describing the embodiments of the present invention. These include suitable techniques in the production of knitwear, such as knitting techniques, the selection of fibers and yarns, the coating of fibers, yarns, or knitwear with polymer or other materials, the use of monofilaments, the combination of monofilaments and polymer coating, the application of fused yarns, and multi-layer textile materials. The described techniques can be used individually or combined as desired. Knit fabric

[0061] The knitwear used in the present invention is divided into knitted and single-thread warp-knitted fabrics on the one hand, and warp-knitted fabrics on the other. The special feature of knitwear is that it consists of interlocking yarns or thread loops. These thread loops are also called stitches and can be formed from one or more yarns or threads.

[0062] Yarn or thread is the term for a structure composed of one or more fibers that is long relative to its diameter. Yarn is used to describe a three-dimensional construct of fibers and / or filaments with a small cross-section compared to the length of the yarn. There are many different types of yarns, including single yarns, spun yarns, core yarns, wrapped yarns, filament yarns such as monofilaments or multifilaments, composite yarns, and folded yarns such as twisted yarns, cable yarns, core yarns, and wrapped yarns, and combinations thereof.

[0063] A fiber is a flexible structure that is rather thin relative to its length. In some cases, fibers can have different lengths. Fibers can be combined to form layers. For example, a layer can contain single and / or multi-layered monofilaments and / or multiple fibers spun together to form a layer. In some cases, one or more layers can be identified as a yarn.

[0064] Multiple layers can be fed to a feeder (yarn feeder) as individual strands and knitted together. In some cases, two or more layers can be twisted together to form a single yarn. Two or more yarns from multiple layers can be plied together to form a thicker yarn. Typically, the individual yarns fed to the machine are referred to as "threads." For example, if two layers of a yarn are fed individually to the same feeder, they are referred to as two threads. However, if the layers were twisted together to form a single yarn, one thread would be fed to the knitting machine.

[0065] Individual strands within a yarn are often referred to as plies. The number and / or type of plies in a yarn can vary. The yarns provided to a knitting machine may consist of four strands of a two-ply yarn. Therefore, if all the plies are made of the same material, the machine will have eight plies of material available.

[0066] Very long fibers of virtually unlimited length are called filaments. Monofilaments are yarns with a single filament, i.e., a single fiber. Monofilament yarns are typically spun and / or extruded. In some cases, monofilaments can be formed from polyamide (e.g., nylon), polyester, polypropylene, polyurethane, elastomeric materials (e.g., a thermoplastic polyurethane, polyether block amide), and / or copolymers and multipolymers. The use of material blends can enable varying degrees of elongation, strength, abrasion resistance, and other predetermined properties along the length of the monofilament.

[0067] A multifilament yarn can be constructed from multiple monofilaments. In some cases, multifilament yarns can be assembled by twisting monofilaments. Bicomponent fibers can be extruded with two different polymers. For example, the two different polymers can be combined in an unmixed stream and then extruded.

[0068] Individual yarns may also contain multiple materials, e.g. one material may be present in the core of the yarn and another may be a shell along a length of the yarn to impart predetermined properties to the shoe upper.

[0069] Spun yarns are yarns formed from fibers, e.g. cut fibers, which are combined and then spun or twisted into a yarn.

[0070] Blended yarns can also be a single yarn spun from two or more fiber types to create a yarn with predetermined properties. The properties of the blended yarn can vary.

[0071] In some cases, two or more yarns can be wound together. Multiple threads can also be twisted together. The amount of twist in a yarn can be controlled to alter the properties of the resulting knitted piece. For example, low-twist yarns can have greater bulk and be softer than high-twist yarns.

[0072] Multiple yarns or yarn layers can be joined together for use in a shoe upper. In some cases, the yarns or layers can be twisted together to form a single folded yarn. Multiple yarns and / or layers can be fed to the knitting machine via the same feeder and knitted together.

[0073] Yarns can be textured. Texturing can impart certain characteristics or properties to the yarns. In particular, textured yarns can contain crimped yarns and / or fibers. Texturing processes include false twist texturing, draw texturing, air jet texturing, stuffer box texturing, knit-set texturing, combinations thereof, and / or other processes known in the art. In some cases, textured yarns can be more elastic (e.g., with higher elongation and / or springback) than non-textured yarns.

[0074] In weft-knitted fabrics, the stitch formation requires at least one thread or yarn, with the thread running in the lengthwise direction of the product, essentially perpendicular to the direction the product is manufactured during the manufacturing process. In warp-knitted fabrics, the stitch formation requires at least one warp loop, i.e., a multitude of so-called warp threads. These stitch-forming threads run in the lengthwise direction, essentially in the direction in which the product is manufactured during the manufacturing process.

[0075] Fig.Figure 1 shows the basic differences between woven fabrics 10, knitted fabrics 11 and 12, and warp-knitted fabrics 13. A woven fabric 10 has at least two layers of thread, which are usually arranged at right angles to each other. The threads are placed on top of or under each other and do not form stitches. Knit fabrics 11 and 12 are created by knitting with one thread from left to right using interlocking stitches. View 11 shows a front view (also called front loop fabric or “right” side) and view 12 shows a back view (also called back loop fabric or “wrong” side) of a knitted fabric. The product sides of the front and back loop differ in the course of the legs 14. On the back loop fabric side 12, the legs 14 are covered, unlike the front loop fabric side 11.

[0076] Knitted fabric 13 is created by knitting with many threads from top to bottom, as in Fig.1a. The stitches of one thread are interlocked with the stitches of the neighboring threads. Depending on the pattern in which the stitches of the neighboring threads interlock, one of the seven basic interlaces (also called "interlaces" in knitting) is created: "pillar," "tricot," "2×1 plain," "satin," "velvet," "atlas," and "twill."

[0077] As an example, Fig.2 shows the interlaces "tricot" 21, "2×1 plain" 22, and "atlas" 23. Depending on how the highlighted stitches of thread 24 are interlocked with the stitches of neighboring threads, a different interlocking results. In the "tricot" interlace 21, the stitch-forming thread zigzags lengthwise through the knitwear and binds between two neighboring wales. The "2×1 plain" interlace 22 binds similarly to the "tricot" interlace 21, but each stitch-forming warp thread skips a wale. In the "atlas" interlace 23, each stitch-forming warp thread runs in a stepped manner to a turning point and then changes direction.

[0078] The stitches arranged one above the other with common binding points are called wales. Fig.Figure 3 shows a wale as an example of a knitted fabric with the reference number 31. The term "waist" is also used analogously in knitted fabrics. Accordingly, the wales run vertically through the mesh fabric. Rows of stitches arranged next to one another, as in the example of a knitted fabric with the reference number 32 in Fig. 3 are referred to as rows. Accordingly, the rows run laterally through the mesh fabric.

[0079] There are three basic structures in knitted fabrics, which can be recognized by the course of the stitches along a wale. In plain single jersey, on one side of the fabric only back loops can be seen along a wale, and on the other side of the product only back loops. This structure is created on a row of needles on a knitting machine, i.e. an arrangement of adjacent knitting needles, also called single jersey. In rib fabric, front and back loops alternate within a row, i.e. depending on the side of the product from which the wale is viewed, either only front or back loops can be found. This structure is created on two rows of needles, with the needles offset from each other. In purl fabric, front and back loops alternate in a wale. Both sides of the product look the same. This structure is created using latch needles, as in Fig.4, made by stitch transfer. Stitch transfer can be avoided by using double latch needles, each with a hook and a latch at both ends.

[0080] A key advantage of knitwear over woven textiles is the variety of structures and surfaces that can be created. It is possible to produce both very heavy and / or stiff knitwear and very soft, transparent, and / or stretchy knitwear using essentially the same manufacturing technique. The parameters that can significantly influence the material's properties are the pattern of the knit, the yarn used, the needle size or gauge, and the tension with which the yarn is fed to the needles.

[0081] The advantage of knitting is that specific yarns can be knitted into freely selectable locations. In this way, selected zones, such as the first and second zones according to the invention, can be provided with specific properties. For example, the shoe upper according to the invention can be provided with zones made of rubberized yarn to achieve greater static friction and thus, for example, enable a soccer player to have better ball control.

[0082] Knitwear is manufactured on machines in an industrial environment. These usually consist of a large number of needles. Weft knitting generally uses latch needles 41, each with a movable latch 42, as shown in Fig.4. This latch 42 closes the looper 43 of the needle 41 so that a thread 44 can be pulled through a stitch 45 without the needle 41 getting caught on the stitch 45. In weft knitting, the latch needles are usually individually movable, so that each individual needle can be controlled to catch a thread to form a stitch.

[0083] A distinction is made between flat-knitting and circular knitting machines. In flat-knitting machines, a thread feeder guides the thread back and forth along a row of needles. In a circular knitting machine, the needles are arranged in a circle, and the thread is fed in a circular pattern along one or more circular rows of needles, which can be positioned on a cylinder.

[0084] Instead of a single row of needles, a knitting machine can also consist of several rows of needles. This applies to both flat knitting machines and circular knitting machines. Viewed from the side, the needles of the two rows of needles can, for example, be positioned at right angles to each other. This allows for the production of more complex structures or fabrics. The use of two rows of needles allows for the production of a single- or double-layer weft-knitted fabric.

[0085] A single-layer knit is created when the stitches created on the first row of needles are interwoven with the stitches created on the second row of needles. Furthermore, knitting machines can be used to create a single-layer fabric, with a first section of stitches created on one needle bed and a second section of stitches created on a second needle bed. The two sections can be connected by transfers between the beds.

[0086] Accordingly, a two-layer knitted fabric is created when the stitches created on the first row of needles are not or only selectively knitted with the stitches created on the second row of needles and / or when they are only knitted at the end of the weft fabric. If the stitches created on the first row of needles are only selectively knitted with the stitches created on the second row of needles using an additional yarn, this can be an example of a spacer knit. The additional yarn, for example a monofilament, can be passed back and forth between two layers to create a space between the two layers. In some cases, the two layers can be connected to each other using so-called tuck loops.

[0087] As a rule, the following knitted fabrics can be produced on a knitting machine: If only one row of needles is used, the result is a single-layer knitted fabric. If two rows of needles on separate beds are used, the stitches of both rows of needles can be connected continuously, so that the resulting knitted fabric consists of one layer. If the stitches of both rows of needles are not connected or are only connected at the edge when two rows of needles are used, two layers are formed. If the stitches of both rows of needles are alternately and selectively connected using an additional thread, a spacer fabric can be created. The additional thread is also called a spacer thread and can be fed in via a separate feeder.

[0088] Single-thread knitted fabrics are produced by moving the needles together. Alternatively, the needles are fixed and the fabric is moved. Unlike knitting, the needles cannot be moved individually. Similar to knitting, there are flat knitting machines and single-thread circular knitting machines.

[0089] In knitting, one or more adjacent winding threads are used. During stitch formation, the individual warp threads are wrapped around the needles, and the needles are moved together.

[0090] The techniques described here, as well as other aspects of knitwear production, can be found, for example, in "Fachwissen Bekleidung," 6th edition by H. Eberle et al. (published under the English title "Clothing technology"), in "Textil- und Modelexikon," 6th edition by Alfons Hofer, and in "Maschenlexikon," 11th edition by Walter Holthaus. Three-dimensional knitwear

[0091] Three-dimensional (3D) knitwear can be produced on knitting machines and warp-knitting machines. This is a knitwear fabric that exhibits a three-dimensional structure despite being knitted or warp-knitted in a single operation.

[0092] A three-dimensional knitting or warp-knitting technique enables the production of three-dimensional knit fabrics with limited seams, or sometimes even without seams. In some cases, a circular knit can form a uniform shoe upper without the need to cut the knitted part. By combining a small circular knit into an elongated hollow structure, the shoe upper can be produced with a single knitting process and / or a knitting process that creates an elongated hollow knit.

[0093] Three-dimensional knitwear can be produced, for example, by varying the number of stitches in the wale direction by forming partial rows. Partial row formation refers to changing the number of stitches in the wale direction across multiple rows in a knitwear fabric. This process is generally referred to as partial knitting.

[0094] When forming partial rows, stitch formation temporarily occurs only along a partial width of the knitted or warp-knitted fabric. The needles not involved in stitch formation hold the stitches until knitting resumes at that point. This makes it possible to create bulges, for example.

[0095] The corresponding mechanical process is called "needle holding." While the needles are parked, the stitches on the surrounding active needles continue to be knitted. Once the specified shape has been created in the fabric, the held needles can be activated and the held stitches can be knitted again.

[0096] Through three-dimensional knitting, a shoe upper can be tailored to a last or the foot, and a sole can be profiled. For example, a shoe tongue can be knitted into the correct shape. Contours, structures, buttons, curves, notches, openings, closures, loops, and pockets can be integrated into the knitwear in a single operation.

[0097] Three-dimensional knitwear can be advantageously used for the present invention.

[0098] Combining the concept of three-dimensional knitwear with small circular knitwear is complex. However, by selectively knitting and holding the stitches with held needles, the shaping of the small circular knit fabric can enable the creation of elongated hollow structures suitable for shoe uppers. Functional knitwear

[0099] Knitted fabrics and in particular knitted fabrics can be provided with a number of functional properties that can be used advantageously in the present invention.

[0100] Using a knitting technique, it is possible to produce knitwear that has different functional areas or zones while maintaining its contours. The structures of the knitwear can be adapted to specific functional requirements through the stitch pattern, the yarn, the needle size, the needle spacing, or the tensile load or tension with which the yarn is fed to the needles.

[0101] For example, it is possible to incorporate structures with large meshes or openings within the knit fabric in areas or zones where ventilation is desired. In contrast, in areas or zones where support and stability are desired, finer mesh patterns, stiffer yarns, or even multi-layered knit structures can be used, as described below. The thickness of the knit fabric is also variable.

[0102] A multi-layer knit fabric, e.g., a two-layer knit fabric, can be knitted on a knitting machine or warp-knitting machine with multiple rows of needles, e.g., two rows of needles, in a single operation, as described in the "Knitted Fabric" section above. Alternatively, multiple layers, e.g., a two-layer fabric, can be knitted or warp-knitted in separate stages and then superimposed and, if necessary, joined together, e.g., by sewing, gluing, welding, or bonding.

[0103] Multiple layers increase the strength and stability of the knitwear. The resulting strength depends on the extent to which the layers are bonded together and the techniques used. The same yarn or different yarns can be used for the individual layers. For example, it is possible to knit a layer of multi-fiber yarn and a layer of monofilament, the stitches of which are knitted together, into one knitted fabric. In particular, the extensibility of the knitted layer is reduced by this combination of different yarns. An advantageous alternative to this construction is to arrange a layer of monofilament between two layers of multi-fiber yarn in order to reduce extensibility and increase the strength of the knitwear. This creates a pleasant surface of multi-fiber yarn on both sides of the knitwear.

[0104] An alternative to the two-layer knit fabric can be referred to as a spacer knit, as explained in the "Knitted Fabric" section. A spacer yarn is knitted more or less loosely between two weft or warp-knitted layers, which binds the two layers together and also serves as a filler. The spacer yarn can be made of the same material as the layers themselves, e.g., polyester, an elastic material (e.g., spandex, Lycra®), or another material. The spacer yarn can also be a monofilament, which provides stability to the spacer knit.

[0105] Such spacer fabrics, also known as three-dimensional knits but distinct from the 3D-knitted, form-fitting fabrics mentioned in the "three-dimensional knitwear" section, can be used wherever additional cushioning or protection is desired, e.g., on the upper or tongue of a shoe upper or in specific areas of a sole. Three-dimensional structures can also be used to create spaces between adjacent textile layers or between a textile layer and the foot, thus ensuring ventilation. Furthermore, the layers of a spacer fabric can contain different yarns depending on the position of the spacer fabric on the foot.

[0106] The thickness of a knitted or warp-knitted spacer fabric can be adjusted in various ranges depending on the function or substrate. Different degrees of damping can be achieved, for example, with different thicknesses of the surfaces. Thinner areas can, for example, increase flexibility and thus serve as joints or flexible lines.

[0107] Multi-layer constructions also offer color design possibilities by using different colors for different layers. For example, knit fabric can be coated with two different colors for the front and back. A shoe upper made of such a knit fabric would then have a different color on the outside than on the inside.

[0108] An alternative to multi-layer constructions are pockets or tunnels in which two layers of textile or knitted or warp-knitted fabrics on two rows of needles are only joined together in certain areas to create a hollow space. Alternatively, knitted or warp-knitted fabrics are joined together in two separate processes to create a hollow space, e.g. by sewing, gluing, welding (e.g. with hot-melt material such as films, fibers or yarns) or bonding. It is then possible to insert a cushioning material such as foam, eTPU (expanded thermoplastic urethane), ePP (expanded polypropylene), expanded EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) or particle foam, an air or gel cushion, e.g. through an opening in the tongue, the upper, the heel, the sole or in other areas.

[0109] Alternatively or additionally, the pocket can be filled with a filling thread or a spacer knit. Furthermore, it is possible to pull threads through tunnels, e.g., as reinforcement for tensile loads in certain areas of a shoe upper. Furthermore, it is also possible to thread the laces through such tunnels. Furthermore, loose threads can be inserted into tunnels or pockets for padding, e.g., in the ankle area. However, stiffer reinforcement elements such as caps, flaps, or bones can also be inserted into tunnels or pockets. These can be made from plastics such as polyethylene, TPU, polyethylene, or polypropylene.

[0110] Another way of making knitwear functional is by using certain variations in the base fabric. When knitting, it is possible to knit bulges, ribs, or waves in certain places, for example to achieve reinforcement in those areas. A wave can be created, for example, by stitch formation on a knitwear fabric. This means that more stitches are knitted on one layer than on another. Alternatively, the stitches on a first layer can differ from those on a second layer. For example, the stitches can be knitted tighter, looser, and / or with a different yarn. The thickness of the resulting knitwear can be controlled by adjusting the stitch density and / or using a thicker thread.

[0111] Waves can be knitted or warp-knitted, creating a connection between two layers of a two-layer knit, or creating no connection between the two layers. A wave can also be knitted as a right-left wave on both sides, with or without a connection between the two layers. Structure in the knit can be achieved through an uneven ratio of stitches on the front or back of the knit.

[0112] Depending on the invention, ribs, waves or similar patterns can be incorporated into the knitwear or the knitted structure of the shoe upper, for example to increase friction with a football ball and / or to generally enable better ball control for a football player.

[0113] Another possible way of functionally designing knitwear within the scope of the present invention is to provide openings in the knitwear during the knitting or warp-knitting process. In this way, ventilation of the football boot according to the invention can be achieved in a simple manner at specific locations.

[0114] Another possibility for the functional design of knitwear within the scope of the present invention is to form shoelaces integrally with the knitwear of the shoe upper according to the invention. In this embodiment, the shoelaces are already knitted or warp-knitted when the knitwear of the shoe upper according to the invention is already knitted or warp-knitted. A first end of the shoelace is connected to the knit, while a second end remains free.

[0115] Preferably, the first end is connected to the knitted fabric of the shoe upper in the area of ​​the transition from the tongue to the forefoot area of ​​the shoe upper. Furthermore, a first end of a first lace is preferably connected to the knitted fabric of the shoe upper on the medial side of the tongue, and a first end of a second lace is preferably connected to the knitted fabric of the shoe upper on the lateral side of the tongue. The respective second ends of the two laces can then be pulled through eyelets to tie the shoe.

[0116] One way to speed up the integral knitting or weaving of shoelaces is to ensure that all yarns used for knitting or weaving end in the area of ​​the transition from the tongue to the forefoot area of ​​the shoe upper. The yarns preferably end in the medial side of the shoe upper on the medial side of the tongue, forming the lace connected on the medial side of the tongue. The threads preferably end in the lateral side of the shoe upper on the lateral side of the tongue, forming the lace connected to the lateral side of the tongue. The yarns are then preferably cut to a length sufficient to form tips. The yarns can, for example, be twisted or plied. The respective second end of the shoelaces is preferably provided with a lace clip. Alternatively, the second ends are fused or provided with a coating.

[0117] Due to its construction, a knitted fabric is particularly stretchable in the direction of the stitches (lengthwise direction). This stretch can be reduced, for example, by subsequently coating the knitwear with a polymer. However, the stretch can also be reduced during production of the knitwear itself. One possibility is to reduce the stitch openings, i.e., by using a smaller needle size. Smaller stitches generally result in less stretch in the knitwear. In addition, the stretch of the knitwear can be reduced by knitted reinforcements, e.g., three-dimensional structures. Such structures can be arranged on the inside or outside of the upper of the shoe, depending on the invention. In addition, non-stretch yarns, e.g., made of nylon, can be laid in a tunnel along the knitwear to limit the stretch to the length of the non-stretch yarn.

[0118] Multi-colored areas can be created by using a different thread and / or additional layers. In transitional areas, smaller stitch openings (smaller needle sizes) are used to achieve a smooth color transition.

[0119] Further effects can be achieved through knitted interlining or jacquard knitting. Knitted interlinings are positioned within the fabric but are not necessarily knitted. They can extend between the knitted layers of a double jersey fabric.

[0120] In single-jersey fabrics, weft interlinings can be held in place along the length of the interlining by stitches on both sides of the interlining. For example, the interlining can be selectively knitted or tucked.

[0121] In some areas, jacquard knitting can be used, for example, to place a specific yarn in a specific color on a specific side of the fabric. Adjacent areas, which may consist of a different yarn, e.g., a different color, can be connected by a so-called tuck loop. A small circular knitting machine capable of jacquard knitting can allow for better control of individual needles and / or thread placement. Table 1 shows the possibilities of jacquard knitting on large and small circular knitting machines: function Large round Small round RLj RRj RLj RRj Single Jersey x x x x rib - x - x Interlock - x - x RL tube x x x x RR tube - x - x Dentristic tube x* x* - - warp thread x 1 x 1 x 2 x 2 weft thread x x x x Filling thread - x - x Plush x 3 x 4 x 4 x 4 Online pattern change x x x x Shifted stitches - (x) - - Pressing stitches x 5 x 5 x 5 x 5 Online mesh density change (x) (x) (x) (x) Intarsia - - x 6 x 6 Yarn change (stripes) x x x x Yarn change (local) (x) (x) x (x) holes (x) (x) x 5 (x) pores x x x x Network structure x x x x RR-RL change - x - x inner lining x - x - 3D distance - x - x 3D local mesh change x* (x) x x * Only seamless machines 4 Special pins required 1 Coils rotate with machine 5 Needle opener required 2 Cams rotate with machine 6 Yarn changer / cutter required 3 Special circuit boards required (x) Not on the market, but theoretically possible

[0122] The use of a jacquard system on a circular knitting machine increases the number of structures and / or stitches that can be formed. For example, the machine gauge can be changed by deactivating every other needle during the knitting process. Furthermore, it is possible to create intarsia patterns using the needle control provided by a jacquard system. For example, images or motifs, such as logos, can be integrated into a knitted shoe upper or element. The creation of holes, pores, and mesh structures, as well as local modifications of yarn materials, can be achieved with electronic jacquard needle control on circular knitting machines.

[0123] In jacquard knitting, for example, two rows of needles are used, and two different yarns run through each section. However, in certain areas, only one thread appears on the visible side of the knit, while the other thread runs invisibly on the other side of the knit.

[0124] A product made of knitwear can be produced in one piece on a knitting or warp-knitting machine. Functional areas can then be created during the knitting or warp-knitting process using appropriate techniques as described here.

[0125] Alternatively, the product can be combined from multiple parts of a knitted fabric, and it can also consist of parts that are not made of knitted fabric. The knitted fabric parts can be designed separately with different functions, e.g., with regard to thickness, insulation, moisture transport, stability, protection, abrasion resistance, durability, cooling, stretch, stiffness, compression, etc.

[0126] The shoe upper according to the invention can, for example, be made from a single piece of knitted fabric or assembled from various pieces of knitted fabric. A complete shoe upper or parts thereof can, for example, be separated from a larger piece of knitted fabric by punching. The larger piece of knitted fabric can, for example, be a circular knit or a circular-knitted fabric, a flat-knitted fabric, or a flat-knitted fabric.

[0127] For example, a tongue can be manufactured as a continuous piece and then joined to the shoe upper, or it can be manufactured in one piece with the shoe upper. In terms of its functional design, ribs on the inside can, for example, improve the flexibility of the tongue and create a space between the tongue and the foot, providing additional ventilation. The laces can be routed through one or more knitted tunnels in the tongue. The tongue can also be reinforced with polymer to stabilize the tongue and, for example, prevent a very thin tongue from folding. Furthermore, the tongue can then also be adapted to the shape of a last or the foot.

[0128] Depending on the invention, applications such as polyurethane (PU) prints, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) tapes, textile reinforcements, leather, rubber, etc., can be subsequently applied to the knitwear of the shoe upper. For example, it is possible to attach a plastic cap as reinforcement or logos and eyelets for shoelaces to the shoe upper, e.g., by sewing, gluing, or welding.

[0129] Sewing, gluing, or welding are examples of suitable joining techniques for joining individual pieces of knitwear to other textiles or to parts of the knitwear itself. Another way to join two pieces of knitwear is by joining. Joining involves joining two edges of the knitwear together using the stitches (usually stitch by stitch).

[0130] One option for welding textiles, especially those made of synthetic yarns or threads, is ultrasonic welding. This involves transmitting mechanical vibrations in the ultrasonic frequency range to a so-called sonotrode tool. The vibrations are transferred from the sonotrode under pressure to the textiles to be joined. The resulting friction heats, softens, and ultimately bonds the textiles in the area of ​​contact with the sonotrode. Ultrasonic welding enables a quick and cost-effective joining, particularly of textiles made with synthetic yarns or threads. A tape can be bonded to the weld seam to further strengthen the weld and make it more visually appealing. It also increases comfort by preventing skin irritation—particularly at the tongue transition.

[0131] Energy can be applied to fabrics and / or yarns, particularly to melt or fuse the yarns or parts of the fabric. For example, melting or fusing yarns can be used in the areas to be welded. Heat can be selectively applied to areas of a shoe upper to melt the yarns, thereby welding sections together or to other components.

[0132] In some cases, melt-bonded yarns may contain a material with a low melting temperature and melting temperatures in the range of 60°C to 150°C. Melt-bonded yarns may contain materials with a melting temperature and / or glass transition point in the range of approximately 80°C to approximately 140°C (e.g., 85°C).

[0133] Fusible materials include thermoplastic materials such as polyurethanes (e.g., thermoplastic polyurethane "TPU"), ethylene-vinyl acetates, polyamides (e.g., low-melting nylons), and polyesters (e.g., low-melting polyesters). Examples of melt strands are thermoplastic polyurethane and polyester.

[0134] In some cases, the fused material present in a yarn flows during melting, allowing the fused material to surround at least part of the adjacent material. Upon cooling, the fused material can form a rigid section that reinforces the textile and / or restricts the movement of the surrounding material. Fibers

[0135] The yarns or threads used for the knitted fabric of the present invention are generally made of fibers. As explained above, a flexible structure that is rather thin in relation to its length is referred to as a fiber. Very long fibers of almost unlimited length are called filaments. Fibers are spun or twisted into threads or yarns. However, fibers can also be long and twisted into a yarn. The fibers can be made of natural or synthetic materials. Natural fibers are environmentally friendly because they are compostable. Natural fibers include, for example, cotton, wool, alpaca, hemp, coconut fibers, or silk. Synthetic fibers include polymer-based fibers such as polypropylene, acrylic, polyamide ("PA"), for example, Nylon™, polyester, polyethylene terephthalate ("PET"), polybutylene terephthalate ("PBT"), polyurethane (e.g., thermoplastic polyurethanes, elastane, or spandex), para-aramid (e.g., Kevlar™), synthetic silks (e.g.,synthetic silks based on spiders or silkworms), which can be produced as classic fibers or as high-performance fibers or technical fibers.

[0136] The mechanical and physical properties of a fiber and the yarn produced from it are also determined by the fiber cross-section, as in Fig. 5. These different cross-sections, their properties, and examples of materials with such cross-sections are explained below.

[0137] A fiber with a circular cross-section of 510 can be either solid or hollow. A solid fiber is the most common type; it allows for easy bending and is soft to the touch. A hollow fiber with the same weight-to-length ratio as the solid fiber has a larger cross-section and is more rigid. Examples of fibers with a circular cross-section are Nylon™, polyester, and lyocell.

[0138] A fiber with a bone-shaped cross-section of 530 has the ability to transport moisture. Examples of such fibers are acrylic or spandex. The concave areas in the center of the fiber support the longitudinal transfer of moisture, quickly wicking and distributing it from a specific area.

[0139] The following additional cross sections are in Fig. 5 shown: - Polygonal cross-section 511 with flowers, e.g. flax; - Oval to round cross-section 512 with overlapping sections, e.g.: wool; - Flat, oval cross-section 513 with stretch and fold, e.g. cotton; - Circular, toothed cross-section 514 with partial grooves, e.g. viscose; - Lima bean cross-section 520; smooth surface; - e.g. toothed lima bean cross section 521: Avril™ viscose; - Triangular cross-section 522 with rounded edges, for example: silk; - Trilobal star cross-section 523; like triangular fiber with shiny appearance; - 524 beam cross-section with partial grooves; sparkling appearance, e.g. acetate; - Flat and wide cross-section 531, e.g. acetate in other versions; - star or accordion cross-section 532; - Cross-section 533 in the form of a collapsed tube with a hollow center; and - Square cross section 534 with e.g. voids: AnsoIV™ Nylon.

[0140] The following describes individual technical fibers and their properties that are of interest for the production of knitwear for the present invention: - Aramid fibers: good resistance to abrasion and organic solvents; non-conductive; temperature-resistant up to 500°C. - Para-aramid fibers: known under the trade names Kevlar™, Techova™, and Twaron™; excellent strength-to-weight properties; high modulus of elasticity and high tensile strength (higher than meta-aramids); low elongation and low elongation at break (approx. 3.5%); difficult to dye. - Meta-aramids: known under the trade names Numex™, Teijinconex™, New Star TM, X-Fiper™. - Dyneema fibers: highest impact strength of all known thermoplastics; high resistance to corrosive chemicals, with the exception of oxidizing acids; extremely low moisture absorption; very low coefficient of friction, significantly lower than that of Nylon™ and acetate and comparable to Teflon; self-lubricating; high abrasion resistance (15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel); non-toxic. - Carbon fiber: an extremely thin fiber with a diameter of about 0.0005 to 0.010 mm, consisting essentially of carbon atoms; very stable in terms of size; a yarn is formed from several thousand carbon fibers; high tensile strength; light weight; low thermal expansion; very strong when stretched or bent; thermal conductivity and electrical conductivity. - Glass fiber: high surface area to weight ratio; the increased surface area makes the glass fiber vulnerable to chemical attack; air pockets within them ensure good thermal insulation; thermal conductivity of 0.05 W / (m K); the thinnest fibers are the strongest because thinner fibers are more ductile; the properties of glass fibers are consistent along the fiber and across their cross-section because glass has an amorphous structure; moisture easily accumulates, which can exacerbate microscopic cracks and surface defects and reduce tensile strength; correlation between the bending diameter of the fiber and the fiber diameter; thermal, electrical, and sound insulation; higher elongation before failure than carbon fibers. Yarns

[0141] Several different yarns can be used to produce the knitwear used in the present invention. As already defined, a structure composed of one or more fibers that is long relative to its diameter is referred to as a yarn.

[0142] Yarns can contain fibers and / or filaments of different sizes. For example, yarns can be made from flock fibers, which consist of small fiber particles, chopped fibers, fibers, and / or filaments.

[0143] Functional yarns are capable of transporting moisture and thus absorbing sweat and moisture. They can be electrically conductive, self-cleaning, thermally regulating and insulating, flame-resistant, reflective, UV-absorbing, and infrared remission. They can be suitable for sensory applications. Antibacterial yarns, such as silver yarns, prevent odor formation.

[0144] Stainless steel yarn contains fibers made from a blend of nylon or polyester and steel. Its properties include high abrasion resistance, higher cut resistance, high thermal abrasion resistance, high thermal and electrical conductivity, higher tensile strength, and high weight.

[0145] Electrically conductive yarns can be used in knitted textiles for the integration of electronic devices. These yarns can, for example, transmit impulses from sensors to devices for processing the impulses, or the yarns themselves can act as sensors, measuring, for example, electrical currents on the skin or physiological magnetic fields. Examples of the use of textile electrodes can be found in EP 1 916 323 A2.

[0146] Fusible materials can be fibers, filaments, yarns, films, textiles, or materials that are activated by the application of energy. In some cases, heat can be used to activate the melt. Fusible materials for use as fusible fibers, filaments, or yarns can include thermoplastic polyurethanes, polyamides, copolyamides, copolyesters, other known fusible materials, and combinations thereof. Fusible yarns can be a blend of materials with different melting temperatures. For example, a low-temperature fusible material can be combined with a high-melt material. In some cases, a low-temperature fusible material can have a melting temperature that is within a range of processing temperatures used during shoe construction. The high-melt material can be outside the processing temperature range used during shoe construction.Fused yarns can include constructions with a low-melt-temperature yarn surrounded by a yarn, a low-melt-temperature yarn, and a pure melt-temperature yarn made of a thermoplastic material. After heating to the melting temperature, the low-melt-temperature yarn fuses with the surrounding yarn (e.g., polyester or Nylon™), stiffening the knit fabric. The melting temperature of the low-melt-temperature yarn is determined accordingly and is typically lower than that of the yarn in a blended yarn.

[0147] In some cases, a melt-bonded yarn may contain a thermoplastic yarn and a non-thermoplastic yarn. For example, three types of melt-bonded yarns may be included: a thermoplastic yarn surrounded by a non-thermoplastic yarn; a non-thermoplastic yarn surrounded by a thermoplastic yarn; and pure melt-bonded yarn made of a thermoplastic material. After heating to the melting temperature, the thermoplastic yarn fuses with the non-thermoplastic yarn (e.g., polyester or Nylon™), stiffening the knit fabric. The melting temperature of the thermoplastic yarn is determined accordingly and, for blended yarns, is generally lower than that of the non-thermoplastic yarn.

[0148] A shrink yarn can be a two-component yarn. The outer component is a shrink material that shrinks when a defined temperature is exceeded.

[0149] The inner component is a non-shrink yarn, such as polyester or nylon. This shrinkage increases the stiffness of the textile material. Other yarns can also shrink when energy is applied to the shoe upper. Knowledge of a material's shrinkage properties can be used to control the final properties of a shoe upper. For example, an elastic yarn can shrink when exposed to heat, allowing it to be used in areas where shrinkage is desired. Other yarns for use in knitwear include luminescent or reflective yarns and so-called "smart" yarns. Examples of smart yarns are yarns that react to moisture, heat, or cold and change their properties accordingly. For example, they can shrink due to environmental influences and thereby reduce the stitch size, or change the volume and thus increase air permeability.Yarns made of piezo fibers or yarns coated with a piezoelectric substance can convert kinetic energy or pressure changes into electricity, which can power sensors, transmitters, or batteries, for example.

[0150] Yarns can be a combination of materials; in particular, some yarns can have a core material and be wrapped with one or more materials. For example, an elastic yarn can be used as the core material and wrapped with a polyester.

[0151] Furthermore, yarns, fibers, and / or filaments can be combined to form blended yarns. Blending can refer to a process in which fibers, yarns, and / or filaments of different materials, lengths, thicknesses, and / or colors are combined. Blending can enable the production of yarns with certain predetermined properties. In some cases, a blended yarn can exhibit similar properties to a much thicker multi-ply yarn.

[0152] Blended yarns can contain two or more yarn filaments and / or fibers. For example, a blended yarn can contain two polyester yarns of different colors combined with low-melting-temperature fibers. In an illustrative example, two different-colored polyester yarns are combined with low-melting-temperature copolyamide fibers to form a blended yarn.

[0153] Blended yarns allow for a more even distribution of material across the entire length of the yarn.

[0154] In some cases, for example, multiple layers of a base yarn can be combined with a single layer of a functional yarn to create a conventional yarn into a knitted element. In contrast, fibers from different materials can be blended and then twisted together to create a blended yarn. When producing a blended yarn with the same or similar predetermined properties as the conventional yarn, it may be possible to combine fibers of a base yarn with fibers of a functional yarn. Fibers can be cut to a specific size.

[0155] For example, polyester fibers can be blended with fibers made from a low-melting material, such as a low-melting copolyamide, copolyester, polyester, polyamide, thermoplastic polyurethane, and / or blends thereof, and then twisted into a blended yarn. In an illustrative example, a blend of 50 wt% polyester fibers and 50 wt% copolyamide fibers is blended and then spun together into a blended yarn.

[0156] In some cases, blended yarns may contain polyester in a range of approximately 20 to 80 wt.% and a low-melt material in a range of approximately 20 to 80 wt.%. For example, in a zone requiring high stability, a yarn with a composition of 30 wt.% polyester and 70 wt.% low-melt material may be used. For areas requiring slightly lower stability, a yarn with 70 wt.% polyester and 30 wt.% low-melt material may be used.

[0157] In some cases, the yarn composition may be determined by the requirements of the knitted material on the shoe. In some cases, the use of a higher amount of copolyamide fibers may be predetermined for applications requiring greater stiffness and / or better abrasion resistance.

[0158] Furthermore, in some cases lower values ​​may be required for lower melting temperature fibers. For example, while blended yarns may have a low melting temperature fiber content in a range of approximately 8 to 80 wt.%, in some cases a yarn with a lower content is desirable. For example, a low melt fiber content in a range of approximately 10 to 30% may be useful in areas requiring a certain level of support and flexibility. In some cases, the low melt fiber content of a blended yarn may be in the range of approximately 15% to 20%. The determination of the low melt fiber content depends on the specified properties that the resulting knitted element is to possess, as well as on the material types. Different parts of a knitted element may, for example, require different stiffnesses.In addition, at low melting temperatures, the fiber content of the shoe upper can vary from zone to zone depending on the properties of the shoe upper.

[0159] When a conventional yarn is replaced by a blended yarn, it is possible to reduce the number of yarn guides (e.g., yarn carriers or fingers) used to produce a knitted element with similar predetermined properties. When using a conventional yarn, 10 layers of a polyester can be delivered to the needle with one yarn guide and 1 layer of a melt-bonded yarn (e.g., copolyamide) with a second yarn guide. When using a blended yarn, a similar ratio of materials in the conventional yarn can be used. That is, a similar ratio of polyester to melt-bonded yarn can be used to obtain the predetermined physical properties. In some cases, the ratio between the yarns may differ between the conventional yarn and the blended yarn. In one example, three (3) percent copolyamide fiber (i.e.,EMS Grilon® K85) and ninety-seven percent (97 percent) polyester fiber are blended into a blended yarn for use in the knitted element. As the values ​​show, the proportion of low-temperature melt fibers is reduced. This reduction can lead to lower material costs.

[0160] In some cases, for example, 12 layers of polyester can be combined with a single layer of melt-fused yarn to create a conventional yarn. This can be replaced by a single blended yarn with a thickness of nine layers of conventional yarn, while retaining the specified properties of the thicker conventional yarn in an illustrative example. Thus, blending allows thinner yarns to replace the thicker, more conventional yarns.

[0161] Using blended yarns can make it easier to work with yarns during knitting. A blended yarn with the same properties as a standard multi-ply yarn can be softer and therefore easier to form into loops. This may make the blended yarns less likely to break or drop a stitch.

[0162] Blended yarns allow for control over the yarn's properties without having to use complete yarns. This can reduce material usage, e.g., the number of yarns or plies used and / or the material volume, and thus the yarn's cost. Furthermore, by reducing the number of knitted threads or plies, knitting time can be reduced. Blended yarns can allow for better control over the blending ratio of materials than, for example, with a "folded" yarn.

[0163] The use of blended yarns can result in a more even distribution of the functional material, e.g. a material with a low melting temperature over the length of the blended yarn compared to a conventional multi-ply yarn.

[0164] Further reducing the number of layers fed into a knitting machine to produce a knitted element with specified properties can lead to a more efficient and / or cost-effective system. In particular, the supply chain, knitting time, and quality control can be improved.

[0165] In an illustrative example, the number of threads supplied to a knitting machine was reduced from 113 to 20. This reduction reduces knitting time by creating a more stable system. Reducing the number of threads supplied to the knitting machine reduces the risk of stitch breakage and thus machine downtime.

[0166] Using blended yarns can simplify machine setup, as the number of bobbins on a given machine can be significantly reduced. Reducing the number of yarns and / or bobbins can reduce the risk of processing delays. Reducing the thread count, for example, reduces the risk of thread breakage and associated delays. Reducing the number of bobbins reduces setup times.

[0167] In addition, yarns can be coated, for example, to obtain certain properties such as stretchability, water resistance, color or moisture resistance. Polymer coating

[0168] Due to their structure, knitted or warp-knitted fabrics are significantly more flexible and stretchable than woven textile materials. For certain applications and requirements, e.g., in certain areas of a shoe upper according to the present invention, it may therefore be necessary to further reduce the flexibility and stretchability to achieve sufficient stability.

[0169] For this purpose, a polymer layer can be applied to one or both sides of the knitwear (knitted or warp-knitted fabric), but generally also to other textile materials. Such a polymer layer reinforces and / or stiffens the knitwear. In a shoe upper according to the present invention, it can serve, for example, to support and / or stiffen and / or reduce elasticity in the toe area, in the heel area, along the eyelets, on lateral and / or medial surfaces or in other areas. Furthermore, the elasticity of the knitwear and in particular its extensibility is reduced. Furthermore, the polymer layer protects the knitwear from abrasion. Furthermore, it is possible to shape the knitwear three-dimensionally using the polymer coating in a pressing process. The polymer coating can be, for example, thermoplastic urethane (TPU).

[0170] In the first step of polymer coating, the polymer material is applied to one side of the knitwear. It can also be applied to both sides. The material can be applied by spraying, coating with a squeegee, laying down, printing, sintering, ironing on, or brushing. If the polymer material is in the form of a film, this is placed on the knitwear and bonded to the knitwear using heat and pressure, for example. The most important application method is spraying. This can be done with a tool similar to a hot glue gun. Spraying allows the polymer material to be applied evenly in thin layers. Spraying is also a quick method. Effect pigments such as color pigments can be mixed into the polymer coating.

[0171] The polymer is applied in at least one layer with a thickness of preferably 0.2 mm to 1 mm. One or more layers can be applied, whereby the layers can have different thicknesses and / or colors. For example, a shoe upper according to the invention can consist of a polymer coating with a thickness of 0.01 to 5 mm. Furthermore, the thickness of the polymer coating in some shoes can be between 0.05 and 2 mm. Between adjacent areas of a shoe with polymer coatings of different thicknesses, there can be continuous transitions from areas with a thin polymer coating to areas with a thick polymer coating. Likewise, different polymer materials can be used in different areas, as described below.

[0172] During application, the polymer material bonds to the contact or intersection points of the yarns of the knit fabric and to the joints between the yarns, forming a closed polymer surface on the knit fabric after the processing steps described below. However, with larger mesh openings or holes in the textile structure, this closed polymer surface can also be intermittent, for example, to allow for ventilation. This also depends on the thickness of the applied material: the thinner the polymer material is applied, the more easily the closed polymer surface can be intermittent. Furthermore, the polymer material can also penetrate the yarn and soak it, thus contributing to its stiffening.

[0173] After the polymer material is applied, the knitwear is pressed in a press under heat and pressure. During this step, the material liquefies and fuses with the yarn of the textile material.

[0174] In a further optional step, the knitwear can be pressed into a three-dimensional shape in a pressing machine. For example, the heel or toe area of ​​a shoe upper can be formed three-dimensionally using a last. Alternatively, the knitwear can also be molded directly to a foot.

[0175] The following polymer materials can be used, for example: polyester; polyester-urethane prepolymer; acrylate; acetate; reactive polyolefins; co-polyester; polyamide; co-polyamide; reactive systems (mainly polyurethane systems that react with H2O or O2); polyurethanes; thermoplastic polyurethanes; and polymeric dispersions.

[0176] The described polymer coating can be used wherever support functions, stiffening, increased abrasion resistance, elimination of stretchability, increased comfort, increased friction, and / or adaptation to predefined three-dimensional geometries are desired. It is also conceivable to adapt the shoe upper according to the present invention to the individual shape of the wearer's foot by applying polymer material to the shoe upper, which then adapts to the shape of the foot under heat.

[0177] In addition to or as an alternative to a reinforcing polymer coating, the knitwear can be treated with a water-repellent coating to prevent or at least reduce moisture penetration. The water-repellent coating can be applied to the entire shoe upper or just a portion of it, e.g., in the toe area. Water-repellent materials can be based on hydrophobic materials such as polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), wax, or white wax. A commercially available coating is Scotchgard™ from 3M. Monofilaments for reinforcement

[0178] As already defined, a monofilament is a yarn consisting of a single filament, i.e., a single fiber. Therefore, the extensibility of monofilaments is significantly lower than that of yarns made from many fibers. This also reduces the extensibility of a knitted fabric made from or consisting of monofilaments. Monofilaments are typically made of polyamide. However, other materials such as polyester or a thermoplastic material are also conceivable.

[0179] While knitwear made from a single monofilament is significantly stiffer and less stretchable, it lacks the desired surface properties of conventional knitwear, such as smoothness, color, moisture transport, appearance, and variety of textile structures. This disadvantage is overcome by the knitwear described below.

[0180] Fig.Figure 9 shows a knitted fabric with a knitting layer made of a first yarn, such as a multi-fiber yarn, and a knitting layer made of monofilament. The monofilament layer is knitted into the layer of the first yarn. The resulting two-layer knit is significantly more stable and less stretchy than the pure yarn layer.

[0181] Fig.9 shows, in particular, a front view 61 and a back view 62 of a two-layer knit fabric 60. Both views show a first knitted layer 63 made of a first yarn and a second knitted layer 64 made of monofilament. The first textile layer 63 made of a first yarn is joined to the second layer 64 at stitch position 65. In particular, at stitch position 65, the tuck loop 66 joins the first textile layer 63 to the second textile layer 64. In addition, the stitch 67 made of the second textile layer 64 is knitted at stitch position 65. In this way, the greater strength and lower extensibility of the second textile layer 64 made of the monofilament is transferred to the first textile layer 63 made of the first yarn.

[0182] A monofilament can also be slightly melted to bond to the layer of the first thread and further limit stretch. The monofilament then fuses to the first yarn at the contact points, securing the first yarn to the monofilament layer. Combination of monofilaments and polymer coating

[0183] The two-layer knitted fabric, as described in the previous section, can be additionally reinforced with a polymer coating, as already described in the “Polymer Coating” section. The polymer material is applied to the knitted layer of monofilament. In this case, it does not bond with the material (e.g. polyamide material) of the monofilament, as the monofilament has a very smooth and round surface, but essentially penetrates the underlying first layer of a first yarn (e.g. polyester yarn). During subsequent pressing, the polymer material therefore fuses with the yarn of the first layer and reinforces the first layer. The polymer material has a lower melting point than the first yarn of the first layer and the monofilament of the second layer. The pressing temperature is selected so that only the polymer material melts, but not the monofilament or the first yarn. melt yarn

[0184] For reinforcement and to reduce stretch, the yarn of the knitted fabric used according to the invention can additionally or alternatively be a melt-bonded yarn, which fixes the knitted fabric after pressing. There are essentially three types of melt-bonded yarns: a thermoplastic yarn surrounded by a non-thermoplastic yarn; a non-thermoplastic yarn surrounded by a thermoplastic yarn; and pure melt-bonded yarn made of a thermoplastic material. To improve the bond between the thermoplastic yarn and the non-thermoplastic yarn, the surface of the non-thermoplastic yarn can be textured.

[0185] Pressing preferably takes place at a temperature of 110 to 150°C, particularly preferably at 130°C. The thermoplastic yarn melts at least partially and fuses with the non-thermoplastic yarn. After pressing, the knitwear is cooled to harden and set the weave. The melted yarn can be applied throughout the knitwear or only in selected areas.

[0186] In one embodiment, the melt-knitted yarn is weft-knitted or warp-knitted into the knitwear. With multiple layers, the melt-knitted yarn can be knitted into one, several, or all layers of the knitwear.

[0187] In another embodiment, the melt-bonded yarn can be placed between two layers of knitted fabric. The melt-bonded yarn can simply be placed between the layers. This arrangement between the layers has the advantage that the melt-bonded yarn does not discolor the mold during pressing and forming, since there is no direct contact between the melt-bonded yarn and the mold. Thermoplastic fabric for reinforcement

[0188] Another possibility for reinforcing a knitted fabric, which is used for the present invention, is the use of a thermoplastic textile. Thermoplastic textiles can include, among others, thermoplastic nonwovens, thermoplastic wovens, and / or thermoplastic knitted fabrics. A thermoplastic textile can at least partially melt under the influence of heat and stiffen when the textile cools. A thermoplastic textile can be applied to the surface of the knitted fabric, for example, using pressure and heat. Upon cooling, the thermoplastic textile stiffens and reinforces, for example, the shoe upper in the area in which it was placed.

[0189] The thermoplastic textile can be specifically manufactured for reinforcement in terms of shape, thickness, and structure. Additionally, its properties can be varied in specific areas. The mesh structure, the knitting stitch, and / or the yarn used can be varied to achieve different properties in different areas.

[0190] A knitted or warp-knitted fabric made of thermoplastic yarn is one embodiment of a thermoplastic textile. The thermoplastic textile may also contain a non-thermoplastic yarn. Depending on the invention, the thermoplastic textile can be applied to the shoe upper, for example, using pressure and heat.

[0191] A fabric whose weft and / or warp threads are thermoplastic is another form of thermoplastic textile. Different yarns can be used in the weft and warp directions of the thermoplastic fabric to achieve different properties, such as stretchability, in the weft and warp directions.

[0192] A spacer fabric made of thermoplastic material is another embodiment of a thermoplastic textile. For example, only one layer may be thermoplastic to be attached to the shoe upper according to the invention. Alternatively, both layers can be thermoplastic, for example, to connect the sole to the shoe upper.

[0193] A thermoplastic knitted or warp-knitted fabric can be manufactured using the manufacturing processes for knitted fabrics described in the “Knitted Fabrics” section.

[0194] A thermoplastic textile may only be partially bonded to the surface to be reinforced under pressure and heat, so that only certain areas or only a certain area of ​​the thermoplastic textile is bonded to the surface. Other areas or another area are not connected, so that, for example, permeability to air and / or moisture is maintained.

[0195] The design of a knitted shoe upper can involve several steps to determine and outline the specifications for the shoe upper. Input can be gathered from a designer, developer, various end users with very different requirements, etc. Furthermore, the requirements for the shoe upper can depend on the usage; for example, sports with lateral movement have different requirements than, say, running. When designing a knitted shoe upper, it can therefore be useful to create a list of requirements for the different zones of a shoe. The limitations and / or capabilities of the machine should also be considered. Knitting machines can vary in their capabilities.

[0196] The use of test methods for loops that include different loops, yarns, loop structures, and / or combinations thereof can enable characterization of the properties of the loops based on the characteristics of the materials, structures, and loops used in the loop. These reference values ​​can then be used to define or determine the factors that should be selected to create a zone with the predetermined or desired properties for that zone in the knitted fabric. In some cases, it may be necessary to prioritize to create a priority list or target requirement list that outlines measurable standards for the knitting zones.

[0197] Zones on a shoe upper can have predetermined properties to meet the needs of the user, the designer's desires, the developer's specifications, and / or the requirements of a specific use. For example, zones can be defined to have predetermined strength, elasticity, cushioning, permeability, water resistance, heat transfer capability, stiffness, and / or other desirable properties known in the shoemaking art.

[0198] To evaluate these properties, it may be helpful to define methods for evaluating these given properties. Table 2 shows various properties of interest for different zones of a shoe upper, particularly a lightweight running shoe, as well as various metrics and / or standards for evaluating the properties. Table 2 shows interesting properties and methods for their quantification for a lightweight shoe: Requirements F / W Test procedures Textile level Shoe level Haptic aspects damping F ThicknessDIN EN ISO 5084 Shoe fit and feelAthlete survey Feeling W --- Shoe fit and feel athlete survey Adjustment W --- Shoe fit and feelAthlete survey Optical aspects form W --- Shoe fit and feelAthlete survey Look / Color W --- Shoe fit and feelAthlete survey Usage aspects Air permeability F Air permeability DIN EN ISO 9237 --- Mechanical aspects Weight F Mass per unit area DIN EN 12127 Shoe weight m s Shoe fit and feelAthlete survey Areas with special needs F Realized by creating different zones → zone-specific requirements Strength / Elasticity F Strength / Elongation DIN EN ISO 13934-2 Shoe stabilityHigh-speed video analysis Stiffness F --- Energy returnShoe twist

[0199] As shown in Table 2, for this illustrative example, there are certain requirements that are specified (represented as "F") and others that are desired (represented as "W"). Various industry standards can be used to evaluate the properties of shoe uppers. Table 1 lists the DIN (German Institute for Standardization) standards as representative examples for the various metrics, such as thickness, air permeability, mass per unit area, and strength / elongation measurements, which are used for reference here.

[0200] The tests should be conducted under similar conditions. For example, after 24 hours of exposure of the samples to a standard atmosphere, defined in DIN EN 139 as a temperature of 20 + / - 2°C in a temperate region and 27 + / - 2°C in a tropical region. In addition, the humidity of the standard atmosphere is in a range between 61% and 69% according to DIN EN 139.

[0201] Due to the nature of the knit and the material differences in the transverse and longitudinal directions, tensile tests according to DIN EN ISO 13934-2 should be carried out to assess strength and / or elasticity in both directions, both along a wale and along a knitting row. To obtain consistent results, the test should be carried out in the center of the fabric sample to ensure that the threads of the wale or row in question are evenly loaded. The values ​​measured to determine strength include the strength at 20% elongation ("F ε20 ”) and the maximum strength (“F max “). F ε20 refers to the force required to achieve a 20% elongation of the fabric in a specific direction, either along the row or the wale. F ε20-SR stands for the strength value along the row and F ε20-SWfor the strength value along the wale at 20% elongation of the textile. F max-SR and F max-SW represent the maximum force that the fabric sample can withstand along a row or wale.

[0202] For many tests, multiple samples should be tested to ensure accurate calculation of average values. In some cases, three or more samples may be tested. For example, it may be preferable to test at least five different samples to obtain a representative sample.

[0203] Factors that influence the various properties of a textile include, among others, the type of yarns, the thickness of the yarns, the thickness of the fabric, the stitches used, the resulting pore structure defined by the various stitches used, the level of tension, the machine settings, etc. In particular, the air permeability of a fabric can be influenced by the pore structure in the fabric, which can be determined by the stitches chosen, the thickness of the fabric, the type of yarn, and the diameter of the yarn.

[0204] Shoe fit and feel can be assessed using the following metrics as shown in Table 3. Table 3 - Parameters for evaluating the shoe parameter Entry-level adaptation test Short-term running test Long-term running test Test time 2 minutes 8 - 10 minutes ~ 6 weeks focus First impressionEntry comfortOverall comfort First impression during use Running comfort Long-term behaviorErrors / weak points Evaluation survey survey survey

[0205] Based on these tests and the requirements defined by the user, designer and / or developer, the requirements shown in Table 4 were Fig.53 values ​​shown for an illustrative example of a lightweight running shoe.

[0206] In particular, a shoe can have zones with predetermined properties, e.g., strength, elasticity, cushioning, air permeability, as shown in Table 4. As shown in Table 4, a strength zone for a shoe upper can be defined by specific values ​​for the force at 20% elongation in both the wale and the row direction of greater than or equal to 30 N and the maximum force that may be applied along the wale or row of greater than or equal to 1300 N. As shown in Table 4, the desired shoe upper would have a basis weight of less than or equal to 750 g / m2 and a thickness in the range of approximately 1.8 mm to 2.2 mm.

[0207] An elastic zone corresponding to the instep and / or part of the collar can be defined by the values ​​for the properties listed under Elasticity in Table 4. Here, the strength properties can be reduced as shown in Table 4 and the maximum elongation in both wale and row directions, „ ε max-SW ” or “ε max-SR ", should be greater than or equal to at least 150%. To meet the requirements of a running shoe, it was determined that the maximum strength (ie F max-SR , F max-SW ) must be more than 300 N. However, to ensure that the shoe stretches sufficiently to be put on, a low strength value at 20% elongation is desired. As shown in Table 4, F ε20-SR and F ε20-SWless than or equal to 5 N. The thickness in this area can range from approximately 1.8 mm to 2.2 mm, while the air permeability should be greater than or equal to 600 mm / s.

[0208] As shown in Table 4, cushioned zones are located in the heel and / or toe area. Cushioned zones for the shoe defined in Table 4 should have a thickness greater than or equal to 2.5 mm. In the cushioned areas of a heel and / or toe area, as shown in Table 4, the textile must have a maximum strength value of more than 500 N in both the wale and row directions. The strength at 20% elongation should be greater than 10 N, and the maximum strength in both directions should be greater than 500 N.

[0209] Breathable zones according to Table 4 should have an air permeability greater than or equal to 600 mm / s. The thickness of the textile in a breathable zone may range from 1.8 to 2.2 mm, while the weight of the shoe upper according to Table 4 should be less than or equal to 750 g / m2. The maximum strength value should be greater than or equal to 100 N, both in the transverse and row directions.

[0210] To achieve the desired properties in a knitting zone, various parameters can be controlled during the knitting process. To determine how the final properties of the knitted fabric changed as a result of changes in the parameters, an evaluation phase was conducted. During the evaluation phase, several tests were conducted, each examining a different parameter for its effect on the resulting knitted element.

[0211] The evaluation phase was conducted using a small circular knitting machine with four knitting systems, 192 needles, a maximum speed of 280 rpm, a diameter of 3.75 inches (9.525 cm), and a gauge of E16. It also featured an electronic thread guide with a maximum tension of 40 cN, adjustable to 0.1 cN. The yarn used was 167 dtex, 30 filament, single-ply polyester.

[0212] During the evaluation phase, each parameter was evaluated individually, while the other four parameters of interest were kept constant at the standard machine settings, as shown in Table 5 in Fig. 54 shown.

[0213] Table 6 in Fig.Figure 55 shows the range of values ​​evaluated during the tests for each of the parameters evaluated. The influence ("I") of each parameter on the textile properties ("P") was calculated by determining the percentage change from the standard value. Specifically, comparing the property value at the standard value for the parameter according to Table 5, which outlines the standard machine parameter, with the property value at the new parameter value, which lies somewhere within the range of the evaluated values. I=(PNewValuePStandard−1)∗100

[0214] For example, the influence of the parameters on the strength in the wale direction (“I Fε20SW “) at 20% elongation using the following equation: IFε20SW=(PNew ε20SWPStandard ε20SW−1)∗100 where “F New ε20SW" refers to the strength in the wale direction necessary to achieve an elongation of 20%. The influence ("I") was calculated as the percentage change from the property value at the standard parameter value to the parameter value being evaluated. These were then plotted graphically for each parameter and property value, thus determining a best-fit curve, as shown in Fig. 36-43 shown.

[0215] For thread tension and knockover depth, it should be noted that the standard value does not correspond to the beginning of the parameter range evaluated in the tests, but rather sometime within that range. For example, in the tests investigating thread tension, the thread tension is varied between 1 and 24 cN, while the standard value is 6 cN. A similar situation exists for knockover depth, which is varied from 280 to 80, while the standard position is 130. These starting points for thread tension and knockover depth were chosen due to the influence of these parameters on the textile. If the interval for these parameters started at the beginning, the starting textiles would be too loose or too tight to provide relevant data.

[0216] A number of layers can be varied to change the properties of the knitted fabric. For example, using a larger number of layers of a yarn in a particular knitting area can increase the stiffness in that area. The number of layers used can also depend on the stitch density (gauge) of the machine used.

[0217] The thread tension can be controlled by a device, e.g., an electronic feeder. In the parameter evaluation, the thread guide used could regulate the tension within a range of 1 to 40 cN. In general, this range can vary depending on the thread guide type and / or yarns used. Furthermore, the desired tension range can also depend on the desired properties of the textile and the use of the textile. The thread tension was adjusted during the evaluation in steps of up to 0.1 cN. The stitch size can be influenced by varying the thread tension of the supplied thread. In general, the higher the tension in the supplied yarn, the smaller the resulting stitch.For example, in the evaluation to determine the relationship between the knitting parameters and the properties of the resulting knitted fabric, a thread tension of the provided yarns was varied in a range of about 1 to about 24 cN in steps of 2 cN.

[0218] The stitch size was also controlled via machine settings. For example, it is possible to control the position of the needle hook when an "old" stitch slides over the needle head and a "new" stitch is formed. In this knockover position (or knock-over position), the available positions for the needle can depend on the machine used. Each machine can have machine settings that can be selected to influence the stitch length. For example, the Lonati small circular machine used in the evaluation has settings between 80 and 280, which, when using a single ply of 167 dtex, 30 filament polyester yarn, result in stitch heights between 0.1 and 0.95 mm. The machine setting was varied between 280 and 80 in increments of 20. A reverse order of machine settings was chosen because a smaller knockover depth results in smaller loops and a stiffer fabric.

[0219] A variety of stitches can be used to create patterns in the knitted element. Pattern elements can include purl loops, skip loops (or dropouts), tuck loops, held loops, and transfer loops. During the evaluation of the parameters, it was determined that it is desirable to produce textiles with at least 50 percent purl loops. The number of tuck and skip loops was varied up to 50 percent to determine the influence of the stitch type on the properties of the resulting knitted element.

[0220] Fig.Figure 36 shows the various parameters and their influence on the resulting strength at 20% elongation in the row direction. Along the x-axis, the legend lists the minimum and maximum values ​​of the parameters. The y-axis indicates the influence of each parameter on a resulting textile characteristic in relation to the standard value. The lines represent the best-fit curve for the influence that a parameter has on the textile property at different values ​​for the parameter from a minimum value to a maximum value. The values ​​are in Fig. 36. The influence value shown and displayed on the Y-axis corresponds to a percentage change from a standard value. The legend indicates which row refers to which parameter.

[0221] The curves for the different parameters were given by the equations in Table 7 in Fig.56. Furthermore, Table 7 shows the change in strength at 20% elongation achieved over the range of parameters. By changing the number of layers from 1 to 5 yarn layers, the strength of the fabric along one knitting row at 20% elongation increases by 313 N in this example.

[0222] In the tests for strength at 20% elongation in the row direction, it was found that as the number of plies increased, the yarn strength increased. Since the number of plies increased linearly, the strength at 20% elongation in the row direction also appeared to be linear, as shown in Fig. 36. It appears that each layer of yarn can absorb a portion of the load, thereby increasing the strength of the entire yarn. Of all the parameters evaluated, the number of yarns used had the greatest influence on the strength at 20% elongation along a knitting row for these illustrative examples.

[0223] Similarly, increasing yarn tension resulted in a 100% increase in strength at 20% elongation along a row. A textile with smaller loops can have more yarn rows in a given area compared to a sample with larger loops. By increasing the number of smaller loops, there are more loops across which the forces are distributed during the tensile test. Thus, as expected, the correlation between yarn tension and strength at 20% elongation along the row was linear.

[0224] A similar result was seen with the knockover depth. Smaller loops can result when the weft depth is varied. It was observed that smaller loops led to higher strength at 20% elongation in the row direction. However, the relationship between the knockover depth and the strength at 20% elongation was not linear. In contrast, the curve is constant up to a knockover depth of approximately 200, depending on the machine settings. After that, a linear relationship was observed. By adjusting the knockover depth, larger loops can be created, which can then be created by adjusting the thread tension. For example, the loops are initially so large that no effect is observed in the strength test at 20% elongation. At some point, the loops were smaller, and the shape of the curve representing the relationship between the knockover depth and the strength at 20% elongation was the same as the curve representing the thread tension.

[0225] The effect that a percentage of tuck loops had on strength at 20% elongation along the row was surprising. It had been assumed that strength would decrease with increasing percentage of tuck loops. While the curve initially shows a decrease, there is a maximum strength at 20% elongation along a row when the textile contains approximately 30% tuck loops. After that, the maximum strength at 20% elongation decreases along the row.

[0226] Because the tuck loops are straightened, they can absorb some of the load, potentially increasing strength at 20% elongation along the row. However, above a certain percentage threshold, the tuck loops result in reduced stability of the knitted loops in the fabric. The density of the tuck loops and the probability of contact between the tuck loops may increase or decrease strength.

[0227] As in Fig. As can be seen in Figure 36, a change in the percentage of false stitches (dropouts) affected the strength at 20% elongation.

[0228] An equation that everyone in Fig. 36, as well as the coefficients of determination for the equations are listed in Table 7.

[0229] The values ​​for the strength in the wale direction were also measured (“F ε20SW "), which refer to the force required to achieve an elongation of 20%. The evaluation showed that the number of layers used had the greatest influence on F ε20SW of the textile, as in Fig. 37 and Table 8 in Fig. 57 shown.

[0230] According to Table 8, the knockover depth had a smaller influence on the strength at 20% elongation, followed by the yarn tension and the number of false stitches, both of which had little influence on F ε20SWseemed to have.

[0231] The number of layers, the thread tension and the turn-up depth seemed to have a linear relationship with F ε20SW in wale direction.

[0232] Controlling thread tension and knockover depth enabled the formation of a dense fabric by increasing the number of loops per unit area. Thus, a higher number of wales is tested on a similarly sized sample due to the increased density. The higher-density textile is capable of absorbing greater force.

[0233] The introduction of tuck loops into a textile resulted in a decrease in strength at 20% elongation in the wale direction. However, as the number of tuck loops approached the maximum (i.e., 50%), F ε20SWThe integration of tuck loops can result in fewer thread connection points. Therefore, the strength can be reduced. When the maximum number of tuck loops was used, the stitch density of the fabric increased.

[0234] The use and / or increase of the percentage of tuck loops did not appear to affect the strength at 20% elongation in the wale direction.

[0235] Table 8 shows the correlation equations and their respective coefficients of determination.

[0236] Fig. 38-39 show relationships between the parameter values ​​and the influence on the maximum tensile strength of the textile.

[0237] As in Fig.38, which corresponds to the maximum tensile strength along a knitted row, the number of yarn layers and then the knockover depth appear to have the greatest influence on the maximum tensile strength of the textile, given the limitations of the example. It appears that the yarn tension, the percentage of false stitches (or dropouts), and the percentage of tuck loops have a smaller influence on the maximum tensile strength along a knitted row. As can be seen from Table 9 in Fig. As can be seen from Figure 58, the maximum change in tensile strength is about 1340 N and results from the variation in the number of layers.

[0238] Furthermore, Table 9 lists the correlation equations for the curves as well as the respective coefficients of determination.

[0239] The evaluation also determined the influence of the parameters on the maximum strength in wale direction, as shown in Fig.39. As can be seen from Table 10 in Fig. As can be seen in Figure 59, the number of yarns used has the greatest influence on the maximum strength along a wale direction, with an increase from one layer to five layers of yarn resulting in a strength increase of about 1500 N.

[0240] As can be seen from the table, changing the knockover depth from a minimum to a maximum value resulted in a strength change of 172 N. The values ​​for the other parameters are listed in Table 10.

[0241] It was observed that the strength values ​​for most parameters were within the expected ranges. However, when the number of skipped stitches was increased, the properties of the resulting fabric were outside the expected values. At 50% tuck loops, the maximum strength decreased along the wale. This may be due to the number of thread connection points in the finished textile.

[0242] The maximum elongation of the textile samples was determined according to DIN EN ISO 13934-2 and the resulting best-fit curves for the parameters are shown in the Fig. 40-41, along a knitting row or a wale.

[0243] As shown in Table 11 in Fig. As can be seen in Figure 60, a maximum change in percentage stretch occurs along a knitted row when the knockover depth is adjusted within the specified range. As the knockover depth changes in the range of 280 to 80, the stitch size decreases. Smaller stitch sizes can result in less stretch along the row, as observed here.

[0244] As in Fig.As can be seen in Figure 40, the stretch increases as the tuck loops approach 50%. However, as the skipped stitches increase, the stretch initially increases and then decreases. It is believed that some skipped stitches are due to the fabric being flexible, as the number of skipped stitches increases and thus the density, which can reduce any possible movement of the threads.

[0245] The relationships between the parameters and the maximum elongation in wale direction are shown in Fig. 41. From the values ​​of Δε max shows that the number of missed stitches and the knockover depth have the greatest influence on the properties of the textile, as shown in Table 12 in Fig. 61 listed values ​​of Δε max show.

[0246] Furthermore, Table 12 shows the correlation equations and determination coefficients for the parameters.

[0247] The effects of the parameters on the mass per unit area were evaluated using the test standard DIN EN 12127. The influence of the various parameters on the mass per unit area of ​​textiles is shown in the best-fit curves of Fig. 42 shown.

[0248] As shown in Table 13 in Fig. 62, the largest change in mass per unit area of ​​the textile was shown when the yarn layers were increased from 1 to 5 with a change of 430 g / m 2 By changing the knockover depth setting from 280 to 80, the basis weight change of the resulting textile also increased by 70 g / m 2 Changes in thread tension, number of tuck loops, and number of false stitches showed a smaller effect on the mass per unit area of ​​the resulting textiles.

[0249] The influence of the different parameters on the thickness of the resulting textiles is shown in Fig.43 as evaluated according to DIN EN ISO 5084. The evaluation showed that the number of tuck loops and the number of false stitches have the greatest influence on the textile thickness, as shown in Table 14 in Fig. 63 can be seen.

[0250] Changes in thread tension and knockover depth had no visible effect on the resulting textile. As expected, increasing the number of layers increased the fabric thickness.

[0251] As in Fig.As shown in Figure 43, increasing the number of dropped stitches or tuck loops by up to 25% increased the fabric thickness. However, the fabric thickness decreased between 25 and 50%. These observations may be the result of stitch positioning. A fabric containing only knitted loops has a relatively smooth surface. Adding dropped stitches and / or tuck loops can cause the surface of the fabric to become irregular, thus increasing the thickness. However, as the number of dropped stitches or tuck loops increases, the fabric may become regular again if the dropped stitches or tuck loops are evenly distributed, as was the case in the evaluation. For example, if the fabric had 50% dropped stitches, it had a relatively smooth profile and a lower thickness.

[0252] Textile samples were tested for air permeability according to DIN EN ISO 9237. The influence of the various parameters on the air permeability of the textiles is shown in the best-fit curves in Fig. 44. As can be seen from Table 15 in Fig. As can be seen in Figure 64, the knockover depth appears to have the greatest influence on the air permeability, with a change in air permeability over the knockover depth range of 4800 mm / s.

[0253] The influence of all evaluated parameters was linear, as in Fig. 44 shown.

[0254] All parameters had a linear influence on air permeability.

[0255] The information collected during the evaluation was compiled and Table 16 was prepared to provide guidance in the design of knitwear. Changes in the parameters and their effects on the properties of the textile are shown in Table 16. Fig. 65. Table 16 allows a designer to see the relative effect of changing certain parameters on the knitwear.

[0256] Table 16 shows that a number of layers and the knockover depth have the greatest influence on a number of textile properties.

[0257] Using this matrix, manufacturing parameters were determined for the production of a prototype of a lightweight running shoe upper. The process parameters were selected to match the requirements of the shoe upper as well as the specified properties of the textile or its zones.

[0258] In general, a shoe upper can comprise multiple zones to provide different properties for different parts of the shoe. For example, different areas of the shoe upper and the resulting shoe may require different levels of support and / or stretch to meet the demands of a running shoe.

[0259] The data obtained during the evaluation form an illustrative example of a shoe upper for a lightweight running shoe.

[0260] In an illustrative example of the lightweight running shoe, the various knitting parameters described here can be varied to create a shoe upper. Table 17 in Fig. Figure 66 shows the minimum and maximum values ​​determined for use in a lightweight running shoe and to assess the relationship between the parameters and the resulting properties of the mesh zones.

[0261] The prototype shoe upper was manufactured with a polyamide yarn, specifically a 2-ply, 78 dtex, 23 filament polyamide, which was treated using the data from the evaluation. To ensure that the yarn change did not affect the expected textile properties, a further evaluation was performed. The yarns, both the PES 167F30 / 1, SET from the evaluation and the PA66 78F23 / 2, SET for the prototype, were tested for gauge and tensile strength. The resulting average strength / elongation test showed that both yarns had a maximum strength of approximately 520 cN. Furthermore, the polyamide yarn was found to have an approximately 22% increased average maximum elongation. This difference was determined to be within the permissible limits. Thus, the correlation matrix for the prototype yarn PA66 78F23 / 2 was determined to still be valid.

[0262] The knitted shoe upper prototype was manufactured as a three-dimensional shoe upper. This was to be done on a single knitting machine. Thus, the one used for prototype development differed from the one used for evaluating the textile properties versus parameters. This was largely changed by the prototype machine's ability to close an opening in the shoe upper, specifically an opening near the toe region in the shoe upper. Furthermore, it was found that the correlation results are transferable to other small circular knitting machines. A comparison of the two machines is shown in Table 18. Table 18: Comparison of knitting machines for machine and prototype tests machine Material tests Prototype tests Mesh density E16 E16 diameter 3 ¾ inches (9.525 cm) 3 ¾ inches (9.525 cm) knitting system 4 1 Feeder per system 8 (10) 6 (+ color) Max. machine speed 280 rpm 250 rpm Peak closure no Yes Plush board no Yes

[0263] For the production prototype, the production parameters were adjusted using the correlation matrix to meet the requirements of the different zones. An example of these zones is shown in Fig.10A. Based on the previously determined requirements and target values, the target zones can be developed and the construction method determined taking into account the evaluation aspects contained therein. For example, zone 92 may be a firmness zone to provide stability to the foot. Zone 93 may need to be elastic to ensure easy entry. In some cases, zone 93 may replace a tongue. Zone 94 may provide cushioning in the areas of the shoe that require it. Zone 95 may need to have increased air permeability to ensure user comfort. Zone 96 may be provided with cushioning. In some cases, zone 96 may require a degree of elasticity to facilitate entry into the shoe and ensure a secure fit during use.

[0264] Fig. 10B and Fig.10C show illustrative examples of a shoe upper 70. Fig. 10B and Fig. 10C show the same shoe upper 70. While Fig. 10C shows a variety of zones, which are described below, these zones were Fig. 10C not highlighted for reasons of clarity.

[0265] As in Fig. 10B, the shoe upper 70 consists of a circular knit part. Such a circular knit part is Fig. 10B by the reference numeral 71. It should be noted that the shoe upper in the exemplary embodiment of the Fig. 10B and Fig. 10C was manufactured in one piece on a circular knitting machine without joining two or more components. The position and size of the special circular knitting part 71 in Fig.10B is therefore for illustrative purposes only. In principle, the shoe upper 70 consists of many more circular knit pieces of different layers and / or sizes, particularly in the toe, heel, and ankle areas.

[0266] In other embodiments, however, the circular knit part 71 may have a structural equivalent. For example, instead of manufacturing the shoe upper from a single piece of knit fabric, the shoe upper could be made from various pieces that are joined together, for example, by gluing, sewing, or welding. In this case, one of these pieces could be a circular knit part within the meaning of the present invention.

[0267] In the example of Fig.10B, the circular knit part 71 is formed in one piece on a small circular knitting machine. Such machines have already been described in the "Knitted Fabric" section. A small circular knitting machine enables the production of the circular knit part 71 in a single knitting process without seams, i.e., the result of the process is a circular knit part with a cylindrical geometry the size of a shoe upper. Examples of possible yarns and fibers that can be used in the present invention have already been described.

[0268] As in Fig. 10B, the circular knit part 71 forms a tubular part of the shoe upper 70. The shoe upper consists of a knitted piece produced on a circular knitting machine. In the example of Fig.10B, a circular knit portion 71 extends from a toe area to an area just before the ankle. Furthermore, as described above, the circular knit portion 71 can typically have a different layer and / or size within the shoe upper. For example, the circular knit portion can extend the entire length of the shoe upper or only a portion of the shoe upper.

[0269] The circular knit part 71 is arranged to receive a part of a foot, ie if a wearer were to insert a foot into the shoe upper 70, all or part of the foot would be surrounded by the circular knit part 71. In the example of Fig. 10B, the circular knit part 71 would cover the entire instep, part of the medial and lateral sides, a back part of the toes and most of the sole.

[0270] The shoe upper 70 of the Fig. 10B and Fig.10C is manufactured entirely on a small circular knitting machine, i.e., the toe area and the heel and collar areas of the shoe upper 70 are knitted together with the circular knit part 71 in one piece. It should be noted that these parts can generally also be manufactured individually and then joined, e.g., by sewing, gluing, or welding. It is also possible, for example, for the toe and heel parts to be manufactured not by knitting, but by another process, e.g., weaving, molding, or other processes known in the art.

[0271] The circular knitting part 71 (see Fig. 10B) consists of at least one circular row. Such a row is indicated by a dashed line and is shown in the Fig. 10B and Fig. 10C by the reference numeral 72. However, it should be noted that in the example of Fig. 10B and Fig.10C, the circular knitting part 71 consists of a number of further rows that are not marked or labeled. Therefore, row 72 is only an example to illustrate the invention. As can be seen from the example of Fig. 10B and Fig. As can be seen in Figure 10C, row 72 is essentially perpendicular to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper, e.g., the row follows the circumference of the circular knitting piece 71.

[0272] In some cases, the upper can be configured so that the rows are arranged alternately with respect to the longitudinal axis. However, by positioning a row of stitches that follows the circumference of the circular knit, the shoe upper offers more flexibility to adjust the knit over the length of the foot. Stretch is greatest in the knit along a row. Generally, there is less stretch along a wale. This allows for the greatest stretch around the foot, as the current configuration allows for a better fit.

[0273] The row 72 consists of a first section 73 and a second section 74, as in Fig. 10C. In the example of Fig.10C, the first portion 73 is arranged on a lateral side of the shoe upper 70 and the second portion 74 is arranged on an instep region of the shoe upper 70. However, it should be noted that in the context of the present invention, the first portion 73 and the second portion 74 may also be located in different parts of the shoe upper. Also in the illustrative example of Fig. 10C, the first section 73 and the second section 74 are arranged side by side. However, it is also possible that the first section 73 and the second section 74 are not arranged side by side.

[0274] In the illustrative example of Fig. 10C, the number of layers in the first section 73 differs from the number of layers in the second section 74. In the example of Fig. 10B and Fig.10C, the number of layers in the first section 73 is higher than in the second section 74. For example, in one case, five layers of a base yarn, one layer of an elastic yarn, and one layer of a plating yarn were used in the first section 73. In the second section 74, two layers of a base yarn, one layer of an elastic yarn, and one layer of a plating yarn were used. By varying the number of layers of a particular yarn in different sections, the effect of the properties of that yarn in the sections can be controlled so that sections with certain predetermined properties can be created. In the example described above, the number of layers of the base yarn is increased in the first section 73 compared to the second section 74, so that the properties of the base yarn can have a greater effect in section 73.

[0275] The circular knit part 71 consists of several rows with corresponding first and second sections. The zones 75A, 75B, 75C, 75D, and 75E in the shoe upper 70 can define areas with specific properties. For example, the needs of the user, the requirements of use (e.g., sports with lateral movements), and / or the wishes of the planner and / or developer can influence the selection of the predefined properties for a particular zone, which are described below.

[0276] Zones can be designed to meet certain predefined characteristics. Table 19 in Fig. For example, table 67 lists the average benchmark values ​​that may be of interest in the various zones.

[0277] As in Fig.As shown in Figure 10C, row 72 consists of two parts. The first section 73 of row 72 is part of zone 75A, while the second section 74 is part of zone 75B. Zone 75A is a zone on the lateral and medial side (not visible in Fig. 10B and Fig. 10C) of the shoe upper 70. The zone 75A of a shoe supports the foot, especially in a sports shoe, to ensure that the shoe stays on the foot during activity, e.g., running, and also provides lateral support. Therefore, high rigidity is desirable, especially to reduce or even eliminate the amount of reinforcement typically achieved by applying additional components or coatings.

[0278] Using a larger number of plies of a yarn in a particular knitting area can increase the stiffness in that area. In some cases, high stiffness is achieved primarily through an increased number of plies. The number of plies used can also be related to the gauge of the machine in use. For example, needles on a low-gauge machine may limit the number of plies of yarn that can be used at any one point on the needle.

[0279] The thread tension can be controlled by a device such as an electronic feeder. In some cases, a feeder can allow a tension in the supplied yarn of 1 to 40 cN. This range can vary depending on the use of the textile and the materials used to produce the textile. Adjustments to the thread tension can be made in steps. In particular, with electronic feeders for evaluating the parameters, the increments can be as small as 0.1 cN. By varying the thread tension of the supplied thread, the stitch size can be influenced. In general, the higher the tension in the supplied yarn, the smaller the resulting stitch will be. For example, the thread tension of the supplied yarns was varied within a range of approximately 1 to approximately 24 cN while the textiles used for the parameter evaluation were being knitted.

[0280] The stitch size was also controlled by machine settings. For example, it is possible to control the position of the needle hook when an "old" stitch slides over the needle head and the "new" stitch is formed. In this knockover position, the length of the knockover depth (or knock-over depth) can depend on the machine used. Each machine can have machine settings that can be selected to influence the stitch length. For example, the Lonati small circular machine, used to make the illustrative example of the Fig. 10B-C, settings between 80 and 280, which when using 167 dtex, 30 filament polyester yarn result in mesh heights between 0.1 and 0.95 mm.

[0281] A variety of stitches can be used to create patterns in the knitting element. Pattern elements can be purl loops, slip loops, tuck loops, held loops, and transfer loops. In the illustrative example of the Fig. 10B-C determined that it is desirable to produce textiles with at least 50 percent stitch loops. Knitting patterns can incorporate a variety of stitch types to create the properties of the knitted fabric.

[0282] In an illustrative example of a shoe upper shown in Fig.10A, Zone 92 provides stability. It can also allow the shoe upper to "secure" the foot near the sole. This can be achieved in whole or in part by increasing the number of yarn layers in these areas. For example, in one illustrative example, five threads (i.e., layers) of a nylon yarn, specifically PA66 78F23 / 2 SET (rd), were used in Zone 92. Additionally, in this illustrative example, an elastic yarn with a nylon yarn (1x PA66 118f30 / 1 - Covered Lycra®) was used. By using a circular production process, plated yarns including an elastic yarn were included in Zone A to simplify production. If the plated elastic yarn had only been placed in Zone 93, the yarn would have had to be cut. Cutting the thread would reduce the force that Zone 93 could have withstood. In some cases, a cut yarn can be forced out of the fabric.

[0283] The inclusion of a plating yarn, such as a nylon or polyamide yarn, can enable a cleaner integration of a specialty yarn, such as an elastic yarn or any yarn with a desired and / or predetermined property for use in a specific zone. This may be particularly necessary when changing yarn types from one zone to the next. The plating yarn can help maintain consistency from one zone to the next.

[0284] In this illustrative example, the knockover depth was set to 100 to ensure efficient production. While the best strength results are achieved when the knockover depth is set to 80 on the machine used to produce the example, this setting can increase the likelihood of defects and / or downtime during production. It has been found that setting the knockover depth to 100 on this particular machine can achieve an improvement in multi-ply yarn production.

[0285] During parameter evaluation and the creation of the illustrative example, it was determined that yarn tension has a limited influence on maximum strength. Therefore, the yarn tension was set to 8 cN for the polyamide yarn and 3 cN for the elastic yarn.

[0286] It was found that higher values ​​for knockover depth and thread tension resulted in needle breakage. While higher percentages of dropped stitches increased the strength of the fabric along a row, strength decreased along a wale. For tuck loops, it was observed that strength properties increased along a row up to approximately 25% tuck loops. Thus, for this illustrative example, the stitch pattern was determined to contain 25% tuck loops, 25% dropped stitches, and 50% knit stitches.

[0287] The specific parameters for zone 92 in the example of Fig. 10A are shown in Table 20 in Fig. 68 shown.

[0288] Zone 93 of the Fig. The example shown in Figure 10A provides an elastic zone. This zone can allow easy access of the foot to the shoe. As can be seen from Table 21 in Fig.As can be seen in Figure 69, the number of threads fed to the feeder in this section (i.e., number of plies according to Table 21) was reduced. In addition, the knockover depth was increased to a value of 150, creating larger stitches. This can increase elasticity along a row and, in some cases, decrease elasticity along a wale. To improve elongation along the wales, tuck loops were used at 25%.

[0289] For zone 94 in the Fig. The example shown in Figure 10A aimed to create a zone of cushioning and support, especially for the toe and heel area. To achieve this, plush mesh was used. Other parameters were adjusted to ensure the necessary stability, as shown in Table 22 in Fig. 70 is evident.

[0290] Specifically, the number of threads (i.e., plies in Table 22) was modified to three polyamide base yarns and one polyamide coating yarn, each containing two plies. For example, three polyamide 66 yarns with two plies of 78 dtex and 23 filaments were used as the base yarn, while the coating yarn contained a single yarn with two plies of polyamide 66 with 44 dtex and 13 filaments. In zone 94, the tension was increased to 14 cN. The increased knockover depth of 250 may have improved the production of the layered structure.

[0291] Zone 96 in Fig. Figure 10A shows a collar area of ​​the shoe upper. Collar areas generally require elasticity. Furthermore, it is often desirable for a collar to be padded. Zone 96 was designed to allow the use of a textile with elastic and cushioning properties. The parameters used to manufacture Zone 96 are shown in Table 23. Fig. 71 listed.

[0292] As indicated in Table 23, a layer of elastic yarn was incorporated into Zone 96 and coated with a yarn containing two layers of 44 dtex, 13-filament polyamide. The base yarn was used as two threads (i.e., number of layers according to Table 23), with each yarn containing two layers of 78 dtex, 23-filament polyamide. The knockover depth was increased to L250 to enable the production of plush textures. Knockover textures were used in the Zone 96 knitting pattern at 50% to ensure the necessary elasticity for the collar area.

[0293] Zone 95 in the example requires a textile with high air permeability. The production parameters chosen for this zone are shown in Table 24 in Fig. 72 shown.

[0294] The use of an open stitch structure allows for additional permeability in this zone. As shown in Table 24, the knitting pattern comprised alternating knit stitches and tuck loops. Furthermore, in this zone, one row is knitted with 2 threads of polyamide yarn (e.g. PA66 78F / 23 / 2 SET (approx.)) and the next row with a monofilament made of polyamide (e.g. PA66 6oF / 1 / 1 Monofil (approx.)). By changing the materials from row to row, the resulting knitting structure was more open. The monofilament yarn is listed in Table 24 as a plating yarn, but it is not according to the example of the Fig. 10A plated, but a secondary base yarn.

[0295] The values ​​for the various properties of zones 92, 93, 94, 95 are shown in Table 25, together with the specified target value, which was determined from the requirements list for the shoe. Table 25: Textile properties of the different zones Zone 92 Zone 93 Zone 94 Zone 95 Textile properties units Goal Fig.7A Goal Fig.7A Goal Fig.7A Goal Fig.7A Strength (F ε20-SR ) N ≥ 30 30 ≤ 5 5 ≥ 10 6 - - Strength (F ε20-SW ) N ≥ 30 44 ≤ 5 6 ≥ 10 11 - - Maximum strength (F MAX-SR ) N ≥1300 1925 ≥ 300 500 ≥500 418 ≥ 100 256 Maximum strength (F MAX-SW ) N ≥1300 1671 ≥ 300 692 ≥500 566 ≥ 100 94 Maximum strain (ε MAX-SR ) N - - ≥ 150 245 - - - - Maximum strain (ε MAX-SW ) N - - ≥ 150 178 - - - - Mass per unit area g / m 2 ≤ 750 797 ≤ 750 300 ≤ 750 456 ≤ 750 121 thickness mm 2±0.2 1.98 2±0.2 2.13 ≥2.5 3.25 2±0.2 1.84 Air permeability mm / s - 118 ≥600 1016 ≥600 686 ≥600 5943

[0296] The values ​​for the textile properties of zones 92, 93, 94, 95 are given in the Fig. 45-47. In Fig. Figure 45 shows the maximum strength values ​​along a row and a wale. The maximum strength results along the row are shown in the darker columns. Thus, the maximum strength values ​​along a row for zone 92 are shown in column 4202, while the maximum value along a wale is shown in column 4204. Furthermore, the maximum strength values ​​for zones 93, 94, and 95 are shown along a row in columns 4206, 4210, and 4214, and along a strand in columns 4208, 4212, and 4216.

[0297] The target value of mass per unit area was achieved for zones 93, 94, 95 (see columns 4304, 4306, 4308), while it was slightly exceeded in zone 92, column 4302, as shown in Fig. 46 can be seen.

[0298] The air permeability values ​​4402, 4404, 4406, 4408 for zones 92, 93, 94, 95 are in Fig. 47. The values ​​for all zones were within the respective zone boundaries, as shown in Table 25.

[0299] In the Fig. 10B and Fig. In the example shown in Figure 10C, the base yarns and the plating yarns are fed to the knitting needles at a tension of 8 cN. The elastic yarn is fed at a tension of 3 cN.

[0300] The tension of the elastic thread during the knitting process can be lowered to ensure that the elastic yarn does not break during the knitting process. In some cases, high tension on the elastic yarn can prevent the final product from retaining its shape, as it would shrink under its own internal tension.

[0301] As shown, the knitting pattern in zone 75A contains a knitting structure called "FELPA." For example, the knitted stitches within the FELPA knitting pattern can contain 50% knit stitches, 25% skip stitches, and 25% tuck stitches. Any stitch configuration can be used here with the same ratio of 50% knit stitches, 25% skip stitches, and 25% tuck stitches. In some cases, the ratio of these structures can be changed to achieve different predetermined physical properties of the knitted element.

[0302] In some cases, FELPA can be used to convey the strength around the circumference determined during the evaluation described here. A pique knit structure can be used when elastic behavior is required, as a pique knit structure demonstrates elastic behavior around the circumference of a small circular knit during the evaluation process. A jersey structure can be used in the heel and / or toe area to shape the heel and / or toe areas of the machine used by selectively knitting and holding the stitches.

[0303] The physical properties of a knitted piece can also control the stitch height. For example, the stitch height can be adjusted by moving or removing a sinker or weight (sinker). Weighting the knitting needles can be controlled via machine settings. As an example, the machine settings described in the Lonati L 130 (hereinafter referred to as "L130") can be used to adjust the weight (sinker) to adjust the stitch height. This small weight creates small loops that further improve stiffness.

[0304] The second zone 75B is located mainly on the instep area, but also extends partially over and above the ankle. It comprises the second section 74 of row 72 as described above. This zone requires a certain amount of stretch to allow for easy entry and exit, particularly in the collar and instep area. The collar must also have a snug fit. To ensure high stretch in this example, only four yarns are knitted together during production: two layers of nylon yarn, one layer of stretch yarn, and one layer of plating yarn made from a polyamide yarn (e.g., nylon). A larger stitch size is used than in zone 75A, Lonati L 150. The knitting pattern used in zone 75B is a pique knit structure consisting of a combination of 75% knit stitches and 25% tuck loops. The resulting knit structure is lightweight and breathable due to the few yarns used.

[0305] The resulting material properties in zone 75B in this example include a stitch count of 95 per cm 2 , a weight of 300.4 g / m 2 , an air permeability of 1016 mm / s, an elongation of 245% at 500 N tension for one row and 178% at 692 N for one strand.

[0306] In another example, depending on the invention, elastane yarn can be used in zone 75B or generally in the instep area of ​​a shoe upper. Elastane yarn can be used as pure elastane, in combination with a staple fiber, such as polyester, or as a plating yarn.

[0307] Zone 75C is located in the toe and heel area of ​​shoe upper 70. In the production of this zone, four yarns are knitted together: three layers of nylon base yarn and one layer of nylon plating yarn. A larger stitch size is used than in zones 75A and 75B, namely Lonati L270 in the heel and Lonati L130 in the toe area. Using a relatively thick plating thread and a higher stitch height can, in some cases, result in greater material thickness in these areas to ensure cushioning. The choice of stitch type can also affect the properties of the finished textile. For example, a plush knit structure can be used in zone 75C, which can affect the weight of the material and / or the air permeability of the zone. In some cases, the plush knit structure can be created by using special sinkers or weights for plush structures.

[0308] In this example, the resulting material properties in zone 75C are a stitch count of 62 per cm 2 , a weight of 456.4 g / m 2 , an air permeability of 686 mm / s, an elongation of 403% at 418 N tension for one row and 285% at 566 N for one strand.

[0309] As can be seen, it is possible to create different structures on one row in the midfoot area. In particular, the needle can select between two and five layers of base yarns for each stitch to vary the stiffness and stretch. It should be noted that the number of possible layers of base yarns is specific to this embodiment, and the invention is not limited to this exemplary number of layers or yarns. Nylon is also used as the base yarn in this example. However, the base yarn can also be made of other materials.

[0310] Zone 75D is the collar of the 70-inch shoe upper. Four layers of yarn are used in this zone: two layers of base yarn, one layer of stretch yarn, and one layer of plating yarn. The tension for the base and plating yarn is 8 cN, and for the stretch yarn, 3 cN. The pattern in zone 75D is a 1x1 rib, and the needle penetration (stitch size) is Lonati L250 in the collar and L100 on the outside. The combination of stretch yarn and a 1x1 rib pattern provides the necessary stretch to ensure easy entry and exit of the shoe. Additionally, a plush structure is applied inside the collar to provide a certain amount of cushioning.

[0311] The tension in the yarns can be controlled to alter the properties of the knitted fabric. In general, a higher yarn tension, for example, in a elastane material, can result in a denser structure with greater elasticity. Using a higher tension in a yarn, especially an elastic yarn, can enable greater compression and / or recovery properties.

[0312] Zone 75E is the front upper area of ​​the shoe upper 70 above the toes. Because this zone must be breathable, an open knit structure is used in this area. Only three layers of yarn are used to knit this zone: two layers of base yarn and one layer of very fine secondary yarn to create the open structure. The knit structure consists of two tuck stitches followed by two knit stitches, repeated every two rows. This results in a structure with approximately 50% knit stitches and 50% tuck loops. The resulting weight is very low and breathability is particularly high.

[0313] In the example of Zone 75E defined above, the resulting material properties in Zone 75E are a weight of 121.2 g / m 2 , an air permeability of 5943 mm / s, an elongation of 193% at 256 N tension for one row and 136% at 94 N for one strand.

[0314] In some cases, the number of threads or plies along a row can be varied to give a portion of the shoe upper specific, predetermined properties. For example, fewer plies may be used in an instep area to allow for more stretch than along the medial and lateral sides. In another configuration, the number of plies or threads in a forefoot flex zone may be reduced to allow for greater flexibility and stretch compared to a midfoot area. Furthermore, the stiffness of a shoe upper can be increased by adding layers. For example, in a toe area, more plies can allow for a stiffer construction with less stretch.

[0315] In other embodiments (not shown in the figures), the shoe upper consists of two layers: an inner layer and an outer layer. The inner layer can be more technical, while the outer layer can be knitted using a method that offers good appearance, good fabric, flexible design options, etc. However, in some embodiments, each layer can have a technical function, alone or in combination with the other layer.

[0316] The two layers can be bonded together. The inner layer can comprise a fusible yarn on the outside and / or the outer layer a fusible yarn on the inside. The two layers can then be bonded together using heat and / or pressure. The two layers can be attached to a last to ensure that the bonding occurs with each layer in the correct position relative to each other.

[0317] A layer may consist of fused yarn only in certain areas where one layer is to be fixed relative to the other. Similarly, some areas of each layer may be free of any bonding to allow for local relative movement between the two layers. This technique can also be used to create pockets into which an intermediate component can be inserted.

[0318] In some designs, an additional layer of low-temperature fusion layer can be placed between the two layers to bond them together using pressure and heat.

[0319] Additionally, additional elements can be added between the two layers. For example, a waterproof layer, padding, reinforcement, or similar can be added.

[0320] Fig.Figure 11 is an illustrative example of a shoe 80 according to the invention. The shoe 80 consists of a shoe upper 70 as shown in the Fig. 10B and Fig. 10C and a shoe sole 81 attached thereto. The shoe upper 70 is directly connected to an upper side of the shoe sole 81, i.e., without an intermediate layer. For this purpose, the upper side of the shoe sole 81 is made of fusible material that softens and / or melts under the influence of heat and, if necessary, pressure. The shoe upper 70 can be pressed onto the shoe sole 81 to ensure a uniform application of pressure. Since the shoe upper 70 is directly connected to the shoe sole 81, the shoe 80 does not include a Strobel sole.

[0321] The shoe upper 70 of the shoe 81 made of Fig.11 contains no laces, i.e., it is a laceless shoe. This is made possible by the invention, which allows the shoe upper 70 to be given the necessary support and rigidity on the medial and lateral sides by adding a sufficient number of yarn layers. By using fewer layers in the instep area of ​​the shoe upper 70, the stretch (i.e., elasticity) is increased to allow the shoe to be put on easily.

[0322] Fig. Figure 12 is another illustrative example of a shoe 80 according to the invention. The shoe upper 70 and the shoe sole 81 of this embodiment are similar to those in Fig. 11. Compared to the embodiment of Fig. 11 the shoe upper 70 consists of Fig.12, however, made of laces 91. For this purpose, the eyelets are applied directly during the knitting of the shoe upper 70 by appropriately controlling the knitting machine. The eyelet area is additionally reinforced by a coating, as described here. In some cases, yarns for the eyelet areas can be selected to support the eyelet.

[0323] Eyelets can be created during the knitting process, e.g., by transfer stitches or holding stitches. In some cases, one or more stitches may be held for several rows to create an area containing the threads that can be pushed aside to create an eyelet. For example, the yarn may be held on two stitches for four rows of knitting (i.e., four consecutive turns). The number of stitches held and the number of turns they are held for can vary depending on the specified hole size. In some cases, eyelets may also be cut out of knitted material. Alternatively, or additionally, reinforcing material may be added (by knitted-in yarn or by secondary application) and then the eyelet is created by punching or cutting through the combination of materials to create the opening.

[0324] The shoe upper 70 of the embodiment of Fig.12 also consists of a collar 92, which is created during knitting. After knitting a first row (or several rows), the loops are transferred to a rotary dial, which holds the knitted loops while the machine continues knitting the inner main part and then the outer parts of the collar. The knitting machine then resumes the held starting rows of the knitted structure and then continues knitting the main body of the shoe upper. In some cases, a terry knit structure may be used on the inside of the collar, which, upon completion, creates additional yarn loops that give the collar area a slightly softer or padded texture.

[0325] Fig.Figure 13 shows a material map for a shoe according to the yarn carriers used. Each section represents a different zone on the shoe, where the yarns are supplied by one or more different yarn carriers. Zones can contain different materials and / or different knitting structures or elements.

[0326] In Fig. 13, zones 110, 112, 114 contain a melt-bonded yarn. For example, zones 110, 112, 114 contain a blended yarn of polyester and melt-bonded yarn coated with a melt-bonded yarn. In some cases, the melt-bonded yarn may have a melting temperature of less than about 100°C. For example, a copolyamide yarn with a melting temperature of about 85°C may be used, as in the example in Fig. 13 shown.

[0327] The threads in each zone 110, 112, 114 are fed to the shoe upper by separate feeders to optimize the flexibility of positioning the threads in the shoe upper. By providing the threads via separate feeders, zone 114 can be positioned between zones 110, 112 without the need for extended floats between zone 110 and zone 112. By using individual feeders for specific zones, the yarns can be limited to these zones, thereby reducing costs, for example, by reducing the amount of yarn required to form the individual zones. In the illustrative example, zone 114 comprises elastic yarns in an area of ​​the shoe upper that corresponds to the instep of the foot.

[0328] The toe area of ​​the shoe upper comprises one or more layers of a blend of inelastic and elastic fibers. For example, zone 116 consists of two layers of a polyester fiber and an elastic polyurethane fiber (e.g., Lycra®) blended together. These layers are combined with another layer of polyester to form knitted zone 116.

[0329] In sections that require stability, such as the heel, yarns with less elastic properties and / or fusible yarns can be used. In particular, polyester fibers can be combined with melt-bonded yarns. For example, in Fig. 13 Zone 118 the heel and the bottom of the foot knitted with a mixture of polyester fiber and low-melting copolyamide and a layer of mixed polyester fiber and elastic polyurethane fiber.

[0330] In zone 120, which forms a collar on the shoe upper, elastic yarns are used to meet the specified properties of the collar. For example, in a collar element, stretch and recovery properties are very important to achieve a good fit, so yarns with elastic properties, such as polyurethane fibers, can be used. To control the stretch and recovery properties, the thickness of the layers, the number of layers and / or the other materials used in the collar element can be controlled. A collar element can, for example, contain several layers of an elastic yarn, in particular a polyurethane (e.g. Lycra®, Spandex). In an illustrative example, three layers of an elastic polyurethane yarn are used in the collar of Fig. 13 used.

[0331] In some cases, the zones of Fig.13 with other yarn combinations or even just one type of yarn. For example, it might be desirable to reduce the number of materials. It may be desirable to produce a shoe upper from one material to allow easy recycling. In particular, thermoplastic polyurethane may be selected to produce the knitwear together with other elements of the shoe. The properties of the zones in the knit can be controlled by changing the number of yarn layers in the different zones. For example, elongation can be reduced if the layers are increased relative to the areas requiring elongation. Furthermore, energy, for example heat, can be selectively applied to the shoe upper to create zones of limited elongation and / or stability.In these zones of controlled stretch and / or stability, heat can melt part of the yarn, creating fixation points within the knit structure and reducing stretch.

[0332] In some cases, yarns of the Fig.13 consists primarily of a thermoplastic polyurethane yarn. The number of layers of this yarn can be controlled in different zones of the shoe upper in order to create predetermined properties for the different zones. Furthermore, the shoe upper can be treated with processes to create zones with predetermined properties. For example, some of the yarns can be supplied with energy zone by zone to create fixation zones. In particular, areas requiring additional stability, such as the heel area and / or the toe area, can be specifically heated. Furthermore, the amount of heat can be controlled so that the amount of heat emitted can be varied from region to region or from predetermined area to predetermined area. This control of the supplied heat can result in the zones having different levels of stability, e.g.By supplying more heat to a heel area, the heel area can provide more stability than the toe area of ​​the upper body. By combining the variation in the number of yarn layers with selective energy input (e.g., heat), a single yarn, e.g., a thermoplastic polyurethane yarn, can be used to create a shoe upper with zones of different predetermined properties (e.g., stability and / or stretchability). A shoe upper produced in this way can be combined with a thermoplastic polyurethane midsole and / or outsole to create an easily recyclable shoe.

[0333] Fig. 14A shows a single-layer shoe upper 122 on the last 124. Shoe upper 122 comprises several zones 110, 114, 116, 118, 120. The Fig.The example of the upper 122 shown in Figure 14 was created on a small circular knitting machine, forming an elongated hollow knit element. Typically, one opening is used to form the collar element 120, and the second opening is closed in some way in the forefoot or toe area. In the example shown in Fig. This is not apparent in the example shown in Figure 14A.

[0334] As in Fig. 14B, there is a knitted connecting line 126 where the direction of the knitted rows changes. For example, in the upper region 146, a plane through a single row is substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal approach of the shoe. However, in at least a portion of the sole region 144, the knitted rows appear to be rotated relative to the rows in the upper region 146. A majority of the rows in the sole region 144 appear to be offset from the rows in the upper region 146.

[0335] A shoe upper for a footwear can be knitted similarly to a sock. Using a machine knitting sequence, as in Fig. 35, in combination with the use of blended yarns, and knitting on a small circular knitting machine can result in a shoe upper having many predetermined zones with specific properties. The knitting sequence 748 shows various sections of the shoe upper, including leg section 750, heel section 752, foot section 754, and toe section 756. Each section can contain different types and / or numbers of stitches, yarns, and / or yarn layers. As shown in Fig.35, knitting can begin in the leg part 750. As can be seen in machine knitting, the stitches appear to be knitted along most of the cylinder, so that an elongated hollow knit structure would be formed. In the heel area 752, the selective knitting and holding of the stitches takes place to create the shape. By selectively knitting and holding stitches, rows of different lengths are formed which, for example, hold stitch 762 at needle position 758 in row 760. Knitting continues in the following rows at the needle positions in a smaller part of the cylinder. Needle position 758 is knitted again in row 766, where stitch 764 is coupled to stitch 762. In the foot part 754, needle positions are knitted evenly along the cylinder. In the toe area 756, selective knitting again takes place. At needle position 758 in row 768, stitch 774 is held.Needle position 758 is then knitted again in row 772 at stitch 770. An opening (not shown) is created in toe section 756 by knitting at most, if not all, points along the cylinder in section 776. Section 776 may include two or more knitted rows to form the opening.

[0336] This configuration can be highly adaptable. Furthermore, the use of blended yarns can significantly reduce processing time by reducing the number of yarns required for knitting. For example, a shoe upper can be created with zones for the collar, heel, toe, instep, sole, etc. Furthermore, these zones can contain subsections where specific properties are desired.

[0337] The use of blended yarns together with the placement of the yarns in such a way that a number of layers in the zones and / or subsections can vary can enable the production of a shoe upper using a minimum number of yarns, having certain predetermined properties, which is produced in a shorter time than a similar shoe upper produced by a conventional manner.

[0338] This can significantly reduce the processing times for the knitted shoe upper. For example, a shoe upper, as shown in Fig.35, can be knitted in less than four minutes. An opening created in the toe area 756 (not shown) can be closed in less than one minute. Closing the opening may involve sewing, welding, bonding, gluing, and / or combinations thereof. Shaping the shoe upper can be completed in approximately one minute. Adding a sole can be completed in less than five minutes.

[0339] For example, a single-layer sock construction with multiple zones, as in Fig.35, with predetermined properties that vary from zone to zone, can be knitted in approximately 4 minutes. The closing seam can be formed at the opening in approximately 30 seconds, e.g., using a linking machine. The shaping of the shoe upper can be done on a last by heating the knitted shoe upper for approximately one minute. Finally, a soling process, e.g., a direct injection process, can be completed in approximately 4 minutes. Thus, a finished shoe with a single-layer sock construction, multiple zones with predetermined properties, and using blended yarns can be produced in less than approximately 10 minutes.

[0340] This makes it possible to produce a highly customizable shoe in less than 15 minutes. In some cases, a shoe can be produced in less than 20 minutes. Production times may vary depending on the shoe size, number of yarns, number and type of stitches, complexity, number of layers, machine capabilities, working speed, and / or design elements.

[0341] Fig. Figure 15A shows the shoe upper 122 on the last 124. The opening 130 corresponds to the second end of the tubular knit. The sole region 144 is connected to the shoe upper region 146 via the knitted connecting line 126.

[0342] Fig. 15B shows a machine knitting sequence for the Fig. 15B. As can be seen from Fig. 15B, the knitting starts in the collar and continues in the shoe upper 146 (see Fig.15A), including heel section 151, midfoot section 153, toe section 155 and sole section 154. As in Fig. As shown in Figure 15A, partial knitting is used throughout the shoe upper to create the shape.

[0343] For example, partial knitting in the sole section 144 (shown in Fig. 15A) of the machine knitting sequence in the heel section 151, shoe upper section 152 and sole section 154 (shown in Fig. 15B). By partially knitting the forefoot area of ​​the sole area 144, an opening 130 is created, as in Fig. 15A. Furthermore, partial knitting is also used in parts of the shoe upper, such as the collar area, the instep area, and wherever the shape makes sense.

[0344] As in Fig.15B, knitting begins at the collar section 150. Knitting continues along the long axis of the shoe. In the heel section 151, the heel of the shoe is formed by partial knitting. At the beginning of the shoe upper section 152, in the midfoot section 153, it can be seen that knitting is taking place at all points on the cylinder of the small circular knitting machine. As knitting progresses, as shown in section 152, the active knitting area on the cylinder decreases with each subsequent row. In this case, some of the stitches are held on the needles and not knitted at the edges shown. For example, stitch 158 at needle position 162 is held until section 154 when stitch 160 is formed at needle position 162. By holding the stitches and continuing to knit in this way, the knitted element can be formed by a combination of partial knitting and folding the fabric.The partial knitting in section 152 and section 154 creates a fold in the fabric approximately at the point shown in . Fig. 15B shown connecting line.

[0345] By folding along a line between section 152 and section 154, shown as a connection of knitting areas in Fig. 15B, the stitches of the two adjacent sections near the toe area are knitted backwards. The closer the stitches are to this "bend line," the closer the new stitches are to the old stitches. The "bend line" for this construction refers to the point at which the stitches change direction, e.g., by folding the fabric. Moving away from the bend line and continuing to knit the stitches partially, the stitches rotate up to 90° from their starting position after folding. A combination of folding and partial knitting creates unique geometries for a knitted shoe upper.

[0346] Fig. Figure 15C shows an exploded view of the knitted connecting line 161 between the sections 152, 154 (shown in Fig. 15B, Fig. 115C) at several stitch positions.

[0347] Fig. Figure 13A shows an elongated hollow knit part produced on a small circular knitting machine which is used to form a two-layer shoe upper with openings 232, 234 in both layers similar to the opening 130 of Fig. 15A is formed. Fig. Figure 13A shows how partial knitting, a combination of holding stitches and selective knitting in specific areas, is used for shaping. Rows of stitches of varying lengths are formed to create shape and / or structure in the shoe upper. By creating rows of varying lengths, it is possible to create a shape.

[0348] In the Fig.In the example shown in Figure 13A, knitting begins at opening 232. In some cases, this can be reversed, and knitting can begin at opening 234. A combination of selective knitting—i.e., knitting in specific rows or wales—and holding stitches is used to create a shape in the elongated hollow knit portion so that the shoe upper conforms to the foot after the shoe upper and the final shoe are formed. Thus, the direction of the knitted rows varies throughout the shoe upper.

[0349] In particular, the use of selective knitting and holding of stitches creates an enhanced shaping effect. To produce the inner forefoot sole area 214 and the outer forefoot sole area 216, they are selectively knitted and held. This creates areas with openings 232, 234 in the forefoot sole areas 214, 216. The edges of the openings 232, 234 are the beginning and end of the knitting process for the two-layer pattern shown. In some cases, the knitting process can be reversed, and the starting rows could be located near the outer layer.

[0350] The knitting continues along the inner knitting layer to the Fig.13C. In the collar area, the inner knit layer 202 is connected to the outer knit layer 204. The outer knit element is a continuation of the inner knit element. During knitting, the inner and outer knit elements are knitted as a continuous knitted tube. The openings 232 and 234, respectively, are the beginning and end of the knitted, elongated hollow knit element.

[0351] Generally, knitting shoes on a small circular knitting machine begins in the collar or toe area, leaving openings at both ends of the knitted tube created by the small circular knitting machine. For example, socks knitted on a small circular knitting machine typically have a closing seam perpendicular to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper. In some cases, this seam is visible on the top or side of the footwear.

[0352] As in the Fig. 15A, 16C-D, openings 130, 232, 234 are formed in the shoe upper such that a closing seam of the finished shoe upper would run substantially parallel to the longitudinal axis of the shoe upper. This change in the position of the opening can allow the seam to be positioned to reduce friction between the shoe upper and the foot. Furthermore, the construction in the toe area 178 of the shoe upper can allow for design freedom by concealing the seam at the sole. Moving this seam out of the forefoot area of ​​the shoe also allows for greater flexibility in shaping the forefoot. Other zones of yarns in the forefoot may not be interrupted by a seam, but rather be continuous.

[0353] By positioning the opening on the sole, it was discovered that this construction allows for increased utility of designs across a range of sizes. Thus, designs created using this construction for one size can be used for shoes in a variety of sizes, from child to adult. However, if the seam was positioned near or on the toe area perpendicular to the shoe's longitudinal axis, multiple designs and / or patterns had to be created to accommodate the different shoe sizes.

[0354] As the illustrative example of a shoe upper in Fig.As shown in Figure 13A, by selectively knitting and holding stitches, an elongated hollow knit structure 200 is created, which has openings 232, 234 at both ends of the elongated hollow knit structure. In this configuration, knitting begins at opening 232, which becomes the inner layer 202 of the shoe upper, and ends at opening 234, which is located on the outer layer 204 of the shoe upper. A fold or turning point 208 is located at the collar region 206. Various regions such as the collar region 206, heel region 210, 212, sole region 214, 216, toe region 218, 220, and instep region 222, 224 are knitted into an elongated hollow knit structure.

[0355] Fig.Figure 13B shows the knitting direction 226 in the elongated hollow structure. By selectively knitting and placing needles (i.e., partial knitting), as well as folding the elongated hollow structure, the knitting direction 226, indicated by the blue arrows in the various zones of the shoe upper, changes throughout the shoe upper. The lines 228 on the upper side represent the direction of the knitted row in a specific zone of the upper side. As shown in Fig. 13B, the knitting direction changes frequently during knitting to create the shaped, elongated hollow structure 200, which is formed into a two-layer knit top. The illustrated knitting directions 226 and 228 are not intended to comprehensively depict all knitting directions or directions of knitting rows, but serve as illustrations. As shown in Fig. As can be seen in Figure 13B, the knitted rows are available in a variety of configurations.

[0356] Fig.Figure 13C shows images of a machine sequence for a two-layer shoe upper. The sequence is divided into two sections. This flat representation of a circular knitting sequence shows all needle positions in each row. However, not all needle positions may be stitched on all rows. Selective control of the stitch path controls the shape and design. In some cases, if a stitch appeared at a needle position in a previous row, the stitch may be knitted (e.g., forming a loop, a tuck loop, or a float loop), transferred, held, or bound off in the following row.

[0357] In the illustrative example of Fig. 13C, knitting begins at the top of sequence section 270 and continues at the top of sequence section 272. Each row in the diagram corresponds to a knitted row or course. In the example of Fig.13C, each row or course of stitches corresponds to a machine movement, in this case a complete or partial rotation of the circular knitting machine. At the various needle positions, stitches can be created, floated, held, and / or transferred. As shown in Fig. As shown in Figure 13C, the stitch can be held at needle position 406. Subsequent stitches can also be held along row 402, which corresponds to one pass of the cylinder.

[0358] As in Fig. 13B, knitting begins with the inner layer 202. This is shown in Fig. 13C above in sequence section 270 in the starting section 278 with starting rows that define the opening formed on the inner layer 274, which becomes part of the sole region. The sole section 282 of the sequence section 270 corresponds to the inner forefoot sole region 214 (shown in Fig. 13A).

[0359] The knitting of the inner knit layer 274 continues through the sole section 282, toe section 284, midfoot section 286, heel section 288, and collar section 290. As shown here, the sole section contains the inner knit layer, which is positioned under the toes. Through a combination of selective holding stitches and selective stitching, stitches in the sole section 282 are connected to stitches in the toe section and / or midfoot section. In some cases, stitches in the sole section may be connected to stitches in the toe section, midfoot section, and / or heel section. Depending on the predetermined shape of the shoe, these connections may vary. In the example of the Fig.13C, the stitches in the sole area 282 are connected to the stitches in the toe area 284 and in the midfoot section 286. By selectively knitting and holding the stitches, a three-dimensional shape of the shoe upper is achieved, among other things, by the folding of the knitted fabric resulting from the stitch arrangement.

[0360] In other cases, the connections between the different zones can vary to create different shapes and / or structures within the elongated hollow knit structure.

[0361] In the initial section 278 it can be seen that knitting is carried out at all needle positions in order to create an opening 232 (see Fig.13A). The starting section 278 may contain multiple knitting rows, as shown. As knitting progresses, as illustrated in the sole section 282, the knitting range (i.e., the number of needle positions at which knitting occurs) is limited. For example, at needle position 408, stitch 412 is held. In the sole section 282, selective knitting occurs to achieve shaping in the elongated hollow knit structure 200. For example, at needle position 408, stitch 410 of the sole portion is joined to stitch 412 of the starting portion at knitting row 414. This selective knitting and joining between the starting portion and the sole portion 282 creates shaping in the inner layer of the shoe upper.

[0362] While knitting continues, in a subsequent knitting row 416, stitch 418 is held at needle position 408. Stitch 418 is held at needle position 408 until knitting row 420, where stitch 422 is made. In this way, the various Fig. 13C are connected to each other, e.g. the mesh line 172 (see Fig. 13F) in the outer mesh layer 276 and the mesh line 230 (see Fig. 13A) in the inner stitch layer 274. Wherever two differently aligned rows are connected during knitting, there are additional stitch lines.

[0363] The difference in the length of the rows, as well as the selective joining of the stitches in combination with the folding of the elongated hollow knit structure, creates the shape of the shoe upper. By joining stitches in the manner described above, the fabric is folded near position 285, particularly by arranging the stitch joins along stitch line 230. This results in the stitches of section 282 having a different orientation than the stitches of sections 284, 286. When the fabric folds or bends at position 285, the stitches of section 282 are reversed relative to the stitches in sections 284, 286.

[0364] By folding at position 285, shown as connecting the knitting areas in Fig.13C, the stitches of the two adjacent sections near the toe area are knitted backwards. The closer the stitches are to this "bend line," the closer the new stitches will be to the old stitches. The "bend line" for this construction refers to the point where the stitches change direction, e.g., due to a fold in the fabric. Moving away from the bend line and continuing to knit the stitches partially, the stitches rotate from their initial position after the fold. This combination of pleating and partial knitting creates a unique geometry for the knitted shoe upper.

[0365] Thus, the heel area 210 (shown in Fig.13A) is formed with the machine knitting sequence shown in heel section 288. Specifically, stitch 426 is held at needle position 408 of row 424. In knitting row 428, stitch 426 is knitted again to form stitch 430. Needle position 408 continues to be knitted for the remainder of heel section 288 and collar section 290.

[0366] In the collar area 206 (see Fig. 13A), the knitting connects the inner layer 202 with the outer layer 204. In Fig. 13C, this connection is made between the collar portion 290 of the sequence portion 270 and the collar portion 434 of the sequence portion 272. With the heel portion 436, the heel region 212 is created in the outer layer 204, as in Fig.13A. At the beginning of shoe upper 440, it can be seen that knitting is taking place at all points on the cylinder of the small circular knitting machine. As knitting progresses, as shown in section 440, the knitting area on the cylinder decreases with each subsequent row. In this case, some of the stitches are held on the needles and not knitted along the edges shown. For example, stitch 452 is held at needle position 448 until section 446, when stitch 444 is formed at needle position 448. By holding the stitches in this way and continuing to knit, the knitted element can be formed by what is known as partial knitting.

[0367] Fig. Figure 13F shows an exploded view of the knitted connecting line 172 between regions with different knitting directions, such that the knitting rows of region 170 and region 174 have different orientations. In the illustrative example of Fig.13F the knitted rows appear to be offset by almost 90 degrees.

[0368] Fig. 13D shows a shoe upper 201 of the Fig. 16A-B, in which the inner layer was folded and inserted into the outer layer to form a two-layer shoe upper. Fig. 16A-C, the folding takes place in the collar area 206 (in Fig. 13A). As in Fig. 13D, the shoe upper 201 is not yet formed into a shoe. The openings 232, 234 are positioned so that they are of the same area, as in Fig. 13D shown.

[0369] As in Fig. As shown in Figure 13E, the direction of the knitted rows varies across the shoe upper. The changes in the direction of the knitted rows are due to partial knitting or selective knitting in some areas while holding the stitches in others. As shown in Fig. 13E, the rows within section 170 rotate from row 166, which is substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the shoe upper, toward the perpendicular row 166 to row 173 of section 174, as shown in Fig. 13E. The specific relationship between the rows in section 170 and section 174 may depend on the position of the stitch on the final shoe.

[0370] Fig. Figure 13F is an enlarged view of the connection between Section 170 and Section 174. As in Fig. 13F, the rotation of the rows in section 170 causes at least some of the rows in section 170 to be perpendicular to the rows in section 174. In this way, a knitted connecting line 172 is created essentially at the intersection of section 170 and section 174. This connecting line can connect stitches from different rows that extend in different directions. The configurations of the stitches connected by connecting lines can vary depending on the desired shaping of the elongated hollow structure into a shoe upper 201. Furthermore, the partial knitting, as in Fig. 13E, used to create a continuous and shaped, elongated hollow knit structure with openings 232, 234 that are at least partially coextensive.

[0371] Fig. 17A shows shoe upper 201, wherein the openings 232 (not shown), 234 are coextensive and closed. The closure of openings can be accomplished by sewing, welding, bonding, gluing, and / or combinations thereof. Additionally, in some cases, a strobel board can be used either in combination with a closure as described above. In some cases, a strobel board can be used to create the closure alone. For example, in Fig. 17A-B, the closure 244 has a seam that closes the openings 232 (not shown), 234. In Fig. 17B the strobel board 246 can be seen at the connecting line 248.

[0372] The yarns may vary along a row and / or along a wale. In some cases, a first section may contain yarns and / or structures selected to impart specific properties to an inner part of a shoe upper. For example, the inner part of the finished shoe upper may contain a functional yarn, such as a thermoregulating yarn, a climate-regulating yarn, a flame-resistant yarn, a reflective yarn, a conductive yarn, or any other yarn known in the art. The outer part of the knitted element may, for example, contain yarns that increase durability and / or stability.

[0373] In some cases, the inner layer 202, as in Fig. 16A, contain elastic components formed from one or more layers of an elastic thread. For example, a polyurethane yarn such as spandex, elastane, Lycra®, can be used in areas where significant stretch and / or recovery properties are required. For example, the Fig. 16A may contain multiple layers of a polyurethane yarn. In some cases, the collar region of the inner layer may contain more layers of the elastic yarn than the collar region of the outer layer of the shoe upper. In one illustrative example, the collar region on the inner layer may contain four layers of an elastic yarn, while the collar region on the outer layer may contain three layers of an elastic yarn.

[0374] Some areas of the inner layer 202 may contain parts with polyamide yarns (e.g., nylon). For example, areas requiring further processing such as separating, joining, and / or sewing may comprise a smooth synthetic fiber yarn such as a polyamide yarn, a polyethylene yarn, or a polyester yarn. A polyamide yarn may be used as a marker yarn in some cases. For example, a polyamide yarn may be used in an area that is being joined to simplify the linking process. Using a polyamide yarn in combination with other yarns makes it possible to identify the specific stitch course during linking. In addition, a smooth polyamide yarn facilitates the linking process by reducing friction when combining the yarns.

[0375] In addition, a large portion of the inner layer may contain one or more yarns made of multiple materials. For example, a yarn with an elastic core (e.g., spandex) wrapped with one or more polyester layers may be combined with multiple layers of polyester.

[0376] Fig. Figure 18 shows a medial view of a shoe upper having an inner layer 180 and an outer layer 182 attached to the collar region 176. Shoe upper 250 includes various regions such as the heel region 254, the midfoot region 256, and the forefoot region 258. Different zones can be created to impart specific properties to the regions of the shoe upper. For example, in the zone 252 covering the instep and / or collar region 176, it may be desirable to have a stretch zone so that multiple layers of an elastic yarn can be used in this region. In some cases, a different stretch is required in the collar region than in the instep region. Thus, the material, thickness, and / or finish may differ from one zone or region to the next.In contrast, in zone 178, which contains the toe box, a designer, developer, or end user may specify that additional support and / or stability is desired. For example, zone 178 can be knitted with yarns that contain a certain proportion of low melting temperature materials. This zone can be treated with energy, e.g., heat during formation. For example, a portion of the low melting temperature component can melt and fix the shape of zone 178. At least a portion of the midfoot region 256 can also contain low melting temperature material. It is important to note that the physical properties of the various zones or regions, particularly stiffness, can be controlled by the composition of the yarns used as well as the treatment of the various zones or regions. For example,the energy provided in fixing the shape of the shoe upper can vary across or along the shoe upper. In particular, it may be desirable, for example, to have more support or stiffness in the toe box than in the midfoot area. These preferences depend on the end user's wishes, the sport, and / or the end user's physical characteristics. The shoe upper described here is adaptable to the end user's needs due to the high degree of specificity with which yarns can be delivered to the shoe upper and / or energy can be delivered to the shoe upper. The same adaptation in the placement of the yarns is possible for the inner layer 180 of the shoe upper. In some cases, it may also be possible to selectively deliver energy to the interior of the shoe upper to control the properties of the shoe upper, for example, through the targeted application of heat and / or steam.

[0377] Fig. 19A shows a machine knitting sequence for the Fig. 19B. As shown in Fig. As shown in Figure 19A, the shoe upper incorporates a variation in the number of stitches in almost every row of the shoe upper. This means that most of the shoe is partially knitted. The shoe upper has several sections, including an inner section 700, a collar section 702, and an outer section 705.

[0378] Knitting occurs over the entire length of the cylinder in forming the openings in sections 706, 724. After the starting section 706, selective knitting and holding of the stitches on needles occurs throughout the inner sole section 708, inner foot section 709, inner heel section 710, inner collar section 712, outer collar section 716, outer heel section 718, outer metatarsal section 720, outer forefoot section 722 and outer sole section 726. While there are rows in these sections where the stitches are knitted on a majority of the needles, all of these sections involve selective knitting and holding of the stitches to create a shaped, elongated, hollow knitted section that can be used as a shoe.

[0379] One of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that the machine knitting sequence forms the elongated hollow knit part to create the final shoe upper. For example, as shown in Fig. 19A, an elongated hollow knit part can be folded at the bending lines 714, 730, 732.

[0380] By folding along these bend lines, the stitches on the held needles are joined to form stitches that are initially upside down relative to the stitches that will be knitted after the fold. The closer the held stitches are to the turning line, the closer the new stitches are upside down relative to the held stitches. Moving away from the turning line, the stitches rotate approximately 90° from their initial position after the fold. This is a combination of folding and partial knitting that creates unique geometries for a knitted shoe upper.

[0381] In particular, at the turning line 730, the elongated hollow knit is folded back as section 709. For example, at needle position 734 in row 736 of the insole section 708, stitch 738 is coupled with stitch 742 when row 740 is knitted.

[0382] For example, a standard size shoe upper, such as a UK 8.5, can be knitted in less than 15 minutes. This shoe upper may consist of two or more layers and have multiple zones with predetermined properties. In some cases, it is possible to knit a two-layer shoe upper with multiple zones of predetermined properties in less than approximately fourteen minutes. In some cases, with the use of blended yarns to reduce the number of yarns required, a shoe upper with an inner and outer layer and multiple zones with properties predetermined by the designer, developer, and / or wearer can be knitted in less than approximately 13 minutes, 30 seconds.

[0383] Furthermore, in some cases, the production times for the processes described above may vary. For example, openings in the shoe upper can be closed in less than three minutes by sewing, welding, joining, gluing, and / or combining. In some cases, the openings can be closed in approximately two minutes. For example, the openings in the shoe upper can be closed in less than two minutes with a Strobel seam.

[0384] Using energy, the knitted shoe upper can be formed in less than approximately 6 minutes if the energy is applied to the shoe upper in a controlled manner so that the shoe upper is formed in a predetermined manner. Using standard heating processes in an oven, the shoe upper can be formed in less than 5 minutes and 30 seconds. With continuous heating, the shoe upper can be formed in less than 3 minutes. For example, some shoe upper configurations can be formed in less than 2 minutes and 30 seconds using a continuous heating process. For example, an oven with a conveyor belt can allow for a reduced heating time.

[0385] Soling the molded shoe upper can be achieved by adding a midsole and / or an outsole to the molded shoe upper. In some cases, the sole can also be applied using the direct injection molding process. This process can be completed in less than approximately four minutes.

[0386] Fig. Figure 19B shows an illustrative example of a knitted shoe that uses an elongated hollow knit section as the shoe upper. The elongated hollow knit section comprises multiple zones within some of the knitting rows to impart specific physical properties to the zones. For example, row 300 (the illustration is approximate due to shaping) contains the expansion section 302 between the medial section 304 and the lateral section 306. By varying the number of yarn layers and the possible materials of the yarns, the sections 302, 304, and 306 can be given different properties. Another example can be found in the forefoot row 308, which contains the stability medial section 310 and the stability lateral section 312. In zones requiring stability, the number of layers can be increased and / or materials with stability can be specified.For example, fused yarns can be provided in sections 310, 312 of row 308 that are activated by energy, e.g., heat. After activation, the fused material can bond parts of the surrounding yarns together, thus increasing stability in these zones.

[0387] A media view of an illustrative example of a multi-layered, elongated, hollow knitted shoe upper is shown in Fig. 20. In this example, the outer layer is connected to the inner layer by knitting at the collar. Other configurations can be created depending on the wearer's needs and the application requirements.

[0388] Fig. 21 shows a side view of the illustrative example of the Fig. 19-20. Due to the colors of the yarns, the knitted connecting line 382 between the heel area 380 and the midfoot area 388 is easier to see here. Fig. Figure 21 clearly shows the knitted row 384 of the heel area, which is connected to the knitted row 386 of the midfoot area at the knitted connecting line 382. These two rows 384, 386 are offset by approximately 45° at the knitted connecting line 382.

[0389] In Fig. Figure 22 illustrates a multi-zone shoe upper with an inner and an outer knit layer. Additionally, yarns in this shoe upper are controlled and placed at predetermined locations to create design elements and interest in the shoe upper. For example, letters are created with individual stitches in the collar area 476. Furthermore, a combination of color and knit structures is used in the knit elements 472, 482. The heel area 460 includes rows that are coupled to the rows of the midfoot area 462 at the knit connecting line 464. As shown in Fig. 22, the rows of the two regions are offset by approximately 45°. A similar knitted connecting line 478 is present between the shoe upper region 484 and the sole region 486. The construction of the knitted, elongated hollow portion with selective knitting and holding of the stitches in combination with the folding of the elongated hollow structure allows the stitch rows in a row to be combined such that the stitches in the row to which they are connected at the knitted connecting line 478 have an opposite or nearly opposite stitch configuration.

[0390] Fig. Figure 23 shows an illustrative example of a material card for a shoe upper with multiple zones. Zones can have different yarn compositions depending on their location on the shoe upper. As shown in Fig. As shown in Figure 23, some knitting courses may contain multiple zones and thus multiple yarns. Areas requiring additional stability, such as the heel and / or midfoot area, may contain additional yarns to increase the stability of the area. For example, yarns with melt content may be used. The amount of melt material in the area may, in some cases, reflect the required stability. Plating melt yarns can provide additional stability and / or reduce stretch, e.g., in the heel area of ​​the shoe upper.

[0391] Heel areas may usually require support. In the example of Fig. 23, zone 650 in the heel area 662 comprises polyester yarn, a blended yarn of polyester and melt-bonded material, and additional melt-bonded yarn coated with the other yarns. The blended yarn in zone 650 has a melt content of approximately 35 wt.%. For example, the blended yarn may contain polyester blended with a copolyamide melt-bonded material with a low melting temperature. In the example, a copolyamide material with a melting temperature of 85°C was used. In contrast, the blended yarn in zone 652 has a melt content of approximately 20 wt.%. By varying the amount of melt in the blended yarn, different elongation and / or stability properties can be achieved. Zone 652 also comprises two layers of the polyester yarn and three layers of a plated melt-bonded yarn. The decrease in the melt content of the blended yarn may result in zone 652 being slightly less stable than zone 650.

[0392] In some areas of a shoe upper, e.g., in the vamp, stretch may be desired. In these areas, an elastic yarn can be used alone or in combination with other materials. For example, zone 656 in the example of Fig. 23 Two layers of an air-tacked yarn containing a polyester yarn (76 filaments) and a stretchy polyurethane yarn with 44 filaments (e.g., Lycra). In some cases, polyester fiber and polyurethane fiber can be blended and / or mixed to form a yarn that can be used in the vamp or anywhere stretch is needed in the shoe.

[0393] Furthermore, an inner layer of a shoe upper made of polyester and elastic may comprise. As in the illustrative example in Fig. 23, the inner layer comprises five layers of a polyester yarn with a weight of 167 dtex and 30 filaments and one layer of an elastic yarn with a weight of 167 dtex and 78 filaments.

[0394] Fig. Figure 24 shows a side view of an illustrative example of a shoe upper. Areas of increased stretch are found in all areas of the shoe upper, e.g., heel area 672 with collar zone 674, midfoot area 670 with instep zone 676, and forefoot area with vamp zone 678. Depending on the use of the shoe and / or the wearer's preferences, the stretchability may vary in different zones. As shown in Fig. 24, for example, the leaf zone 678 and the instep zone 676 may contain multiple layers of an elastic yarn to achieve the required stretching and / or recovery forces. Fig. 24 is laceless, the stretch and recovery properties of the instep and collar zones ensure a good fit of the shoe upper while allowing the foot to enter.

[0395] The use of blended yarns in the example reduced the number of yarns needed to achieve the desired effects in the shoe upper. Using fewer yarns can reduce production costs by reducing knitting time and downtime due to the lower likelihood of yarn breakage during processing.

[0396] Fig. Figure 25 shows a rear view of an illustrative example of a shoe upper. The heel zone 680 may contain fused yarns to provide stability to the heel. In contrast, the collar zone 682 may include elastic yarns that allow the foot to enter the shoe 684. Depending on the desired properties of the zones, the number of yarn layers may vary, for example, to increase the recovery property in the collar zone or to increase stability in the heel zone.

[0397] The illustrative example of Fig. Figure 26 shows a medial side view of the shoe upper. As in Fig. As can be seen in Figure 26, the shoe upper 686 has been molded. During molding, energy may be applied to the shoe upper while it is positioned on a mold, e.g., a last, a mold, a foot, or the like. In some cases, it may be possible to use an activatable yarn that allows the shoe upper to be shaped upon the application of energy. For example, yarns may be activated while a user is wearing the shoe to create a customizable shoe. In some cases, activation may cause one or more components in the yarns to shrink, melt, or a combination of both.

[0398] In some cases, an activatable yarn can be selectively positioned during knitting so that regions of the shoe upper can be secured upon activation. In one illustrative example, an elongated hollow knit may be knitted with multiple regions that form overlapping regions when the elongated hollow knit is folded and / or drawn in. When knitting on a circular knitting machine, these regions may be knitted sequentially and then folded over so that regions of the outer and inner sock overlap. As described herein, zones in the shoe upper may comprise regions of different yarns.

[0399] In one illustrative example, an elongated, hollow-knit part can be knitted from single jersey. The elongated hollow-knit part can have a base zone with a base yarn and a plated zone in which a base yarn is knitted together with a plated yarn. The plated yarn can be a yarn that can be activated upon application of energy. The yarns can be positioned so that when the elongated hollow-knit part is folded, the plating lies close to the base zone of the shoe upper. Thus, upon activation of the activatable plated yarn, e.g., a low-melting-temperature yarn, the low-melting-temperature yarn can couple the base zone to the plated zone. In some cases, the low-melting-temperature yarn melts upon activation, coupling the layers of the elongated hollow-knit part together.The plating can be controlled so that the activatable yarn is positioned with more activatable yarn on one side of the elongated hollow knit. This is possible even in a single-jersey fabric by controlling the position of the threads in the loop. Furthermore, as described here, plated yarns can be selectively formed into loops or floated in certain areas to control the positioning of the yarns and, in some cases, the position of the activatable yarn.

[0400] Fig. Figure 27 shows a plan view of a shoe upper 688 showing the achieved shaping.

[0401] The Fig. 28-29 show the shoe upper 188 on lasts 190. By using partial knitting, ie selective knitting and holding of stitches, and repositioning the opening in the sole area of ​​the knitting element, patterns and / or knitting sequences or parts thereof can be developed and used across a large number of shoe sizes, as in Fig. 28-29. The combination of selectively placing yarns in specific zones and selectively holding and / or knitting needles to create a shape makes it possible to customize patterns for a specific user or use based on user input or predetermined properties required by a shoe for a particular sport.

[0402] For manufacturing and design purposes, when small circular knitting is used, the diameter of the machine usually remains the same to minimize costs. Therefore, designs must be adaptable to many sizes by using a standard circumference on the machine. The width of the shoe upper can be partially controlled by a combination of selectively holding stitches and / or selective knitting to create the shape of the shoe upper and adjust the width for the smaller sizes. Thus, partial knitting can help adjust the width of the shoe upper on a small circular knitting machine. In addition, material selection, particularly the targeted placement of yarns, can help control the width of the shoe upper in specific areas or zones. On a small circular knitting machine, the length of the tube can be variable.

[0403] The width of the shoe can be adjusted by placing the shoe upper on a last and applying energy to mold the shoe upper into the shape of the last. For example, heat can be applied to the lasted shoe upper to "set" the shoe upper. Yarns can be selected for use in specific zones of the shoe upper depending on the yarn's ability to activate when energy is applied. In this context, yarns that shrink when energy and / or heat are applied can be placed in areas that are intended to shrink. In some cases, the composition of the yarns in a specific area can be controlled to control shrinkage. Furthermore, the amount of energy applied can also be controlled.

[0404] In some cases, a shoe upper resting on a last can be supplied with energy. This energy can be in the form of heat. For example, a knitted shoe upper can be heated using a conveyor system onto a mold, e.g., a last, a mold, etc. Heat can be applied to a large portion of the shoe upper to ensure that the shoe upper conforms to the mold. In some cases, heat can be applied selectively to parts of a shoe upper that require additional shaping or shaping.

[0405] The Fig. 30-31 show an elongated hollow structure 192 folded into a two-layer shoe upper with inner layers 194, 260 and outer layers 196, 262 and mounted on a combined midsole and outsole structures 198, 264, respectively.

[0406] In some cases, the inner and outer layers of the shoe upper may be folded at a different location on the upper. There may be cases where a multi-layered shoe upper with three or more layers folded over one another is desired. In some cases, this layered shoe upper may have a different number of layers in different parts of the shoe upper, depending on the needs and / or desires of the end user, the designer, the developer, and / or the requirements of the shoe's use.

[0407] In some cases, an inner layer may be designed for comfort, while a knitted outer layer incorporates technical elements necessary for the shoe's function. Multiple layers in the shoe upper may allow for the use of layers containing conductive and / or light-emitting fibers. For example, a shoe upper may contain an inner layer that wicks moisture away from the foot, a middle layer containing conductive fibers, and a protective outer layer that provides support structures and waterproofs the shoe.

[0408] In the illustrative example of Fig. 32, the elongated hollow structure 600 has a two-layer construction over most of the shoe upper, with the outer layer 602 overlapping the inner layer 600 after the inner layer has been folded and tucked into the outer layer. Thus, in the toe region 606 and the heel region 610, the shoe upper 600 has two layers. In the midfoot region 608, there may be additional knitted regions that can be folded over one another to impart special properties to this section of the knitted fabric. Regions 612, 614, 616 may contain a variety of materials, layers, and / or structures to achieve the predetermined properties of the shoe upper. Furthermore, the fold lines of the various regions can be adapted to the needs of the wearer and / or the requirements of the application.

[0409] In an illustrative example, region 612 may contain additional layers, materials, and / or structures that provide additional support to the midfoot. Region 614 may contain a fused yarn or a material capable of bonding the various layers together. Region 616 may contain, for example, conductive yarns. The folds may occur along one or more lines 618, 620, 622, 624 to create a shoe upper with the specified properties. Furthermore, the midfoot region 608 is a multi-layered structure that can provide additional support. The thickness of the various regions of the shoe upper can be controlled by the choice of material, the number of yarns used, the stitch structures used, and / or the thickness of the yarns. These variables can be selected to create a region with the desired stitch density.If multiple regions overlap, the thicknesses of the overlapping regions can be controlled to limit the overall thickness of the shoe upper in that zone or region. Regions 612, 614, 616 shown in this example can be arranged in other configurations in further examples according to the needs of the user and / or application.

[0410] The elongated hollow structure can be folded to create, for example, a toe area, a collar area, a leg area, a sole area and / or a heel area with three or more layers.

[0411] Depending on the knitting sequence, the three or more layers can be positioned at different locations on the shoe. In some cases, yarns can be used at the end of the elongated hollow structure, allowing it to connect to another part of the shoe upper. For example, fused yarns can be used to ensure that the layers of the shoe upper retain their position after energy is applied.

[0412] Fig. Figure 52 shows an illustrative example of a shoe where the number of yarns supplied to the knitting machine has been reduced. Reducing the number of yarn materials can provide processing advantages through a lower risk of yarn breakage and / or fewer bobbins on the machine.

[0413] Furthermore, reducing a number of specific yarn ply types can enable more efficient processing. "Distinct yarn ply type(s)" refers to a ply made of a specific material. For example, a distinct yarn ply type containing polyester can be combined with a distinct yarn ply type containing a low-melting material.

[0414] The shoe upper shown is a two-layer shoe upper created by knitting an elongated hollow-knit structure on a small circular knitting machine. Each layer is knitted as part of the elongated hollow-knit structure. In this case, part of the elongated hollow-knit structure is folded at the collar so that an inner layer lies within an outer layer.

[0415] Furthermore, the shoe upper 4902 of the Fig. 52, three materials are used, specifically polyester, a low-melting material, and an elastic material, e.g., spandex. Different zones in the shoe require distinct properties, so different yarns and a number of layers can vary depending on the shoe upper. Furthermore, the materials can be combined in various ways to create a shoe upper having multiple zones with different properties. The inner layer of the shoe upper corresponds to zone 4916 of the elongated hollow knit structure. As shown, the inner layer consists of multiple layers of a polyester yarn. The inner layer is a single-layer knit as depicted.

[0416] Areas requiring stretch, such as zone 4914, comprise one or more layers of an elastic yarn, particularly spandex. The number of layers in such a zone can vary depending on the desired stretch and / or recovery properties for the zone and / or a portion of the zone. Zones requiring stability can contain blended yarns. In particular, zone 4908 comprises a layer of a blended yarn containing 50% polyester and 50% low-melt material. Depending on the desired properties of a zone, the low-melt material content can range from approximately 20% to 80%.

[0417] Zones requiring additional stability can contain a blended yarn combined with layers of a low melting temperature yarn. As in Fig. 52, Zones 4904, 4910, 4912, contained the blend of one layer of 50% polyester and 50% low-melting material combined with three layers of low-melting material yarn. As shown in Fig. As shown in Figure 52, these four threads are fed into the same feeder, with the blended yarn serving as the base yarn and the three layers of low-melting material serving as the plated yarn. After the four threads have been fed to the feeder, the base yarn is positioned so that it will appear on an outer surface of the fabric during knitting.

[0418] The plated yarn, consisting of three separate layers of a low-melting-temperature yarn, is positioned on an inner side of the knitted fabric. Zones 4904, 4910, and 4912 correspond to part of the toe area, part of the midfoot area, and the heel area, respectively. These areas may require additional stability, which the low-melting-temperature yarns can provide.

[0419] Additionally, the low-melting yarn can be activated by the supply of energy, in particular heat. The heat supply to zones 4904, 4910, 4912 can at least partially melt the low-melting material of the three yarn layers. This molten material can partially flow into the spaces between the threads of the inner layer, in particular into zone 4916. After cooling, the low-melting material can solidify and at least partially bond the inner layer to the outer layer of the shoe upper. Zones with pure low-melting material layers, in particular zones 4901, 4910, 4912, can create a bond between the inner and outer layers of the shoe upper.

[0420] The number of layers of the different materials can be varied depending on the desired properties of the zone and / or the ability to bond with other materials. For example, layers of low-melting-temperature yarns can be positioned during knitting so that they are located on an external surface of the outer layer. This allows these melting materials, when activated, to bond various elements to the shoe upper, midsole, and / or outsole, e.g., stability elements such as heel counters, toe caps, etc., design elements, textile elements, lacing elements, cushioning elements, midsoles, lugs, and / or sole elements.

[0421] In some cases, it may be desirable to plate low-melt-temperature yarns in zones where they are positioned on an outer surface of the inner sock. This part of the inner sock would touch the outer sock and could, at least partially, bond to the outer sock upon activation.

[0422] Zones of plated yarns with a low melting temperature can be positioned throughout the shoe upper so that, when the yarns are activated, tunnels, pockets, and / or elements are created in which the bonded areas surround non-bonded areas. In some areas, these bonded areas can have a specific geometry or shape. In other designs, the shoe upper can be selectively activated. For example, heat can be applied in specific areas to bond part of the inner sock to part of the outer sock. In elongated hollow knit elements that form a ring-shaped structure, parts of the ring-shaped structure can be bonded together.

[0423] Yarn layers can be fed to the knitting machine and / or feeder in an untwisted or twisted state. If multiple layers of the same yarn are used, they can be twisted so that one thread is delivered to the knitting machine and / or feeder. For example, three low-melting-temperature yarn layers can be fed directly to the knitting machine and / or feeder, or twisted together so that only a single thread is delivered to the knitting machine and / or feeder. Twisting the multiple layers into a single thread can result in a more uniform material throughout the textile. In addition, by reducing the number of individual threads delivered to the knitting machine and / or feeder, the number of yarn spools can be reduced.Reducing the number of bobbins feeding yarn to the knitting machine and / or feeder reduces the complexity of the knitting process and can reduce knitting and / or processing time. The fewer yarns fed to the knitting machine and / or bobbins, the less likely it is that a yarn break will occur, slowing down production.

[0424] Yarns can be of the same type but differ by a number of plies. For example, a 3-ply polyester yarn can be considered the same type of yarn as a 2-ply polyester yarn, provided the individual plies have the same materials and construction (i.e., dtex value and number of filaments).

[0425] The number of layers used in an area can depend on the thickness of the yarn, the stitch density of the machine used, and / or the required hook size. Yarn thickness can be influenced, for example, by the number of filaments and / or the density of the fibers.

[0426] Properties that may be referred to as predetermined properties may include properties of interest for a particular zone, area, part and / or layer of a shoe upper. In particular, predetermined properties may include but are not limited to strength, e.g. as measured at 20% elongation and / or maximum strength along both a row and a wale, the maximum elongation along a row and a wale, mass per unit area, air permeability, wicking ability, conductivity, e.g. thermal and / or electrical, extensibility, cushioning, thickness, recovery, stability and / or other properties important to the type of shoe and / or user.

[0427] In the examples, the shoe uppers 630, 640 may include three layers, as shown in the Fig. 33-34. An inner layer 632, 642 may be knitted from materials suitable for an inner layer of a shoe, e.g., yarns that affect the fit or comfort of the shoe, particularly elastic and / or functional yarns. A middle layer 634, 644 could be knitted from a yarn capable of bonding the inner layer to the outer layer of the shoe upper, e.g., a fused yarn. The outer layer 636, 646 could be knitted from materials suitable for the outer surface of the shoe, e.g., materials that are abrasion-resistant, water-repellent, grippy, and / or desirable from a design perspective.

[0428] In some cases, a four-layer knitted fabric can be supplied. For example, a four-layer folded knit can start and end at the same point if desired. A four-layer knitted fabric could be used to produce a shoe upper with an inner layer, an adhesive layer, a conductive layer, and an outer layer. Across the layers, the materials, the number of layers, the thickness of the layers, and / or the knitting structures can be varied to produce layers with different thicknesses and / or stitch densities. For example, when creating an electrically conductive layer, it may be desirable to reduce a stitch density for that layer. The stitch density of a layer can be controlled by varying the stitch type, e.g., knit loop, tuck loop, float and / or hold loop, material type, material thickness, use of a plating thread, and / or number of yarn layers.This would allow the adhesive layer to still be effective in bonding the inner layer to the outer layer of the shoe upper.

[0429] In some cases, inner and outer layers of the shoe upper may be separated and / or folded at a different location of the shoe upper. In an illustrative example of the combination of two separate elongated hollow structures, the knitted sequences of the sequence sections 270, 272 of the Fig. 16C can be used to create two elongated hollow structures without connecting the elongated hollow structures at the collar. This allows openings to be created at both ends of the elongated hollow structure. One opening in the elongated hollow structure can correspond to the collar area, and one to the opening in the sole area of ​​the forefoot.

[0430] The examples and methods described here can result in a shoe upper in which seams are minimized and, in some cases, eliminated. In some examples, knitted seams are formed. Knitted seams can help create shape and structure in an elongated hollow knit. Other examples are the joining regions of the upper welds created by the selective application of energy, e.g., electromagnetic waves, heat, infrared, ultrasonic, microwave, radio frequency, laser welding, solvent welding, or other types of welding known in the art. For example, the selective application of heat can create a weld at the opening of the elongated hollow knit located on the sole of the shoe upper. In some elongated hollow knit structures, sections of thread can be joined together to create a linked seam.Knitted, linked and / or welded seams may have a lower profile than a sewn seam.

[0431] Manufacturing a knitted shoe upper with an elongated hollow knit can result in significant savings in production costs. This can be due to a reduction in the number of steps and / or touches required for the elongated hollow knit structure to become a shoe upper compared to conventional materials and / or construction techniques. Furthermore, the elongated hollow knit structure reduces waste and, in some cases, eliminates waste by creating a shoe upper that conforms to the foot.

[0432] Knitting on a small circular knitting machine is generally quite fast. Furthermore, an elongated, self-folding single-jersey hollow-knit structure is generally faster to knit than a comparable double-jersey structure knitted on a knitting machine, either flat or circular. Reducing knitting times can significantly impact overall production costs.

[0433] These various production advantages can lead to significant savings. Furthermore, the processes and examples described here can enable significant customization options for the end user, i.e., the wearer. Wearer characteristics, usage requirements, and / or design trends, among other things, can be taken into account when manufacturing a shoe upper using the processes described here.

[0434] In particular, the use of the knitting techniques described here in combination with a small circular knitting machine can lead to significant time savings in the production of a shoe. For example, a two-ply shoe upper can be produced in less than fifteen minutes. The use of blended yarns can reduce the number of yarns used for knitting compared to the use of standard, twisted, and / or blended yarns. This can lead to a reduction in knitting time, as less material is needed to impart the same predefined physical properties to the zones of the shoe upper compared to the multi-twisted yarns or plies required with standard construction methods.

[0435] Closing the opening(s) on the sole of the foot can take about a minute, while adding the sole can take less than four minutes. Shaping the upper of the shoe can take about five minutes. Thus, a complete shoe could be formed in less than 25 minutes. Furthermore, this shoe can also be customized. Custom shapes such as lasts or molds can be used to create a highly individual shoe that is fitted to the wearer's foot. In the past, making bespoke shoes took much longer, but given the flexibility of this process, bespoke shoes can be produced in almost the same time as standard shoes.

[0436] The configuration described here can be created with any knitting machine known in the art, e.g., a knitting machine such as a flat knitting machine or a warp knitting machine. The two-layer tubular construction with large openings on the sole is well suited for adaptation to other knitting machines.

[0437] As described here, materials can be modified or replaced to meet the needs of the user, the type of activity, and design requirements. Customization can allow the wearer to select yarn types, stretch and / or compression levels, colors, special effects, functional materials, knit structures, or any combination thereof. Post-processing can also be used to adjust the properties of the knitted shoe upper, e.g., by applying energy to create stiffer zones on the shoe upper.

[0438] In the following, further examples of the invention are described, in particular with regard to the exemplary embodiment in Fig. 16, in particular Fig. 16B and Fig. 16E: 1. Shoe upper comprising: an elongated hollow knit structure arranged to receive a portion of a foot, comprising: a first end (134) of the elongated hollow knit structure comprising: a first axis (132) passing through a center point (131) of the first end of the elongated hollow knit structure and parallel to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper; and a second axis (133) passing through a center point (131) of the first end of the elongated hollow knit structure and orthogonal to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper; wherein a first length of a first segment of the first axis positioned within a boundary of the first end of the elongated hollow knit structure is greater than a second length of a second segment of the second axis positioned within a boundary of the first end of the elongated hollow knit structure. 2. The shoe upper of example 1, wherein the elongated hollow knit structure further comprises a second end (135) comprising: a third axis (132) passing through a center point (131) of the second end of the elongated hollow knit structure and parallel to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper; and a fourth axis (133) passing through a center point (131) of the second end of the elongated hollow knit structure and orthogonal to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper; wherein a third length of a third segment of the third axis positioned within a boundary of the second end of the elongated hollow knit structure is greater than a fourth length of a fourth segment of the fourth axis positioned within a boundary of the second end of the elongated hollow knit structure. 3. The shoe upper of example 1, wherein at least one of the first and second ends of the elongated hollow knit structure is disposed on a sole region of the shoe upper. 4. The shoe upper of example 1, further comprising a closure seam disposed from at least one of the first or second ends of the elongated hollow knit structure substantially parallel to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper. 5. The shoe upper of example 1, further comprising a second end of the elongated hollow knit structure disposed on a sole portion of the shoe upper. 6. The shoe upper according to example 1, further comprising an inner layer and an outer layer connected to each other by knitting stitches. 7. The shoe upper of example 5, wherein the at least one end of the elongated hollow knit structure is positioned such that a closure seam of the second end of the elongated hollow knit structure is substantially parallel to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper. 8. Shoe upper according to example 1, wherein the closure seam of at least one end of the elongated hollow knit structure and the closure seam of the second end of the elongated hollow knit structure are at least partially overlapping. 9. Shoe upper according to example 1, wherein the elongated hollow knit structure is formed on a small circular knitting machine. 10. The shoe upper according to example 1, wherein the elongated hollow knit structure is a single-layer textile and wherein at least a first portion of the elongated knit is folded over a second portion of the elongated knit such that the shoe upper has an inner layer and an outer layer connected by knitting stitches. 11. The shoe upper according to example 1, wherein the elongated hollow knit structure comprises at least one knitting row having a first section and a second section, and wherein the number of layers in the first section is different from the number of layers in the second section. 12. Shoe upper according to one of the preceding examples, wherein the first section is arranged on a medial and / or lateral region of the shoe upper and the second section is arranged on an instep region of the shoe upper and the number of layers in the first section is higher than in the second section. 13. A shoe upper according to any one of the preceding examples, wherein the elongated hollow knit structure comprises a first region and a second region, wherein at least one of the first and second regions comprises fusible material connecting the first region and the second region. 14. The shoe upper according to any one of examples 9 or 10, further comprising at least one component disposed between the first circular knit part and the second circular knit part. 15. Shoe comprehensive: a shoe upper according to any one of the preceding examples; and a shoe sole that is attached to the upper part of the shoe. 16. Shoe according to the preceding example, wherein the shoe upper is directly connected to an upper side of the shoe sole. 17. Shoe according to the preceding example, wherein the shoe upper is directly bonded to the shoe sole by heat. 18. The shoe of any one of examples 13 or 14, wherein the upper surface of the shoe sole comprises thermoplastic. 19. The shoe of any one of examples 12-15, wherein the shoe does not have a Strobel sole. 20. Shoe upper according to example 1 further comprising: a knitted connecting line on the sole of the shoe upper coupling a first set of stitch rows in a first section with a second set of stitch rows in a second section; wherein at one or more points on the knitted connecting line, the first set of stitch courses is upside down relative to the second set of stitch courses, and further comprising an offset between the first and second sets of stitch courses that increases from about 0° to about 90° along a length of the connecting line. 21. A method for producing a shoe upper, comprising: Knitting at least one elongated hollow knit structure on a knitting machine having openings (232, 234) in the ends (134, 135) of the elongated hollow knit structure; and Arranging the elongated hollow knit structure, wherein at least one opening (234) of the elongated hollow knit structure is arranged parallel to a longitudinal axis (132) of the shoe upper. 22. The method of example 21, further comprising arranging the elongated hollow knit structure such that the at least one opening of the elongated hollow knit structure is positioned on a sole region of the shoe upper. 23. The method of any one of examples 21 or 22, wherein knitting the at least one elongated hollow knit structure on a knitting machine further comprises: Knitting one or more stitches in the first row during a first machine movement; Holding one or more stitches on one or more needles in the first row during the first carriage stroke so that the one or more stitches are held; Knitting one or more stitches on a second row during a second machine movement, wherein at least one first held stitch is knitted; and Knitting one or more stitches on a third row during a third machine movement, knitting at least a second held stitch; and whereby a knitted connecting line is formed at an intersection point of the knitted stitches and the held stitches. 24. The method of any one of examples 21-23, further comprising: Folding at least a portion of the elongated hollow knit structure such that the first held stitch is substantially upside down with respect to a subsequent stitch at that needle position performed during the second machine movement. 25. The method of any one of examples 21-24, wherein along the knitted connecting line, an orientation of the knitted stitches relative to an orientation of the previously held stitches is reversed and offset by a value in the range of about 0° to 90°. 26. The method of any one of examples 21-25, further comprising closing the opening to form a closure seam of at least one end of the elongated hollow knit structure disposed substantially parallel to a longitudinal axis of the shoe upper. 27. The method of any one of examples 21-26, further comprising folding at least a portion of the elongated knitted fabric such that a first region of the elongated hollow knitted structure forms an inner layer of the shoe upper and a second region of the elongated hollow knitted structure forms an outer layer of the shoe upper. 28. The method of any one of examples 21-27, further comprising: Arranging a first portion on a medial and / or lateral region of the shoe upper; and Arranging a second section on an instep area of ​​the shoe upper, where the number of layers is higher in the first area than in the second area. 29. The method of any one of examples 21-28, further comprising assembling the elongated hollow knit structure to form a shoe upper without sewn seams. 30. The method of examples 21-29, further comprising disposing at least one component between the inner layer and the outer layer. 31. A shoe upper according to a method of any one of Examples 21 to 30. 32. Shoe upper, comprising: an elongated hollow knit structure comprising: a first zone having a first predetermined characteristic; a second zone having a second predetermined characteristic; where the elongated hollow knit structure comprises less than ten different yarn layers. 33. The shoe upper of example 32, wherein the first zone further comprises a first blended yarn comprising melt material, wherein the second zone comprises a second yarn; and wherein the first blended yarn and the second yarn differ by at least one property.

Claims

[1] Method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305), comprising the steps: a. Providing (110) at least one stretchable region (210; 310) on the shoe upper (200; 305); b. Providing (112) at least one stretch yarn in the at least one stretchable region (210; 310); c. Providing at least one area without stretch yarn on the shoe upper; d. Stretching (120) the at least one stretchable region (210; 310) of the shoe upper (200; 305) to adjust a size of the shoe upper (200; 305); and e. permanently attaching (130) at least one rigid element (220; 320) at least partially to the stretched stretchable region (210; 310) so that the stretched stretchable region (210; 310) is locked. [2] Method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one stretchable region (210; 310) is provided at least partially in a lower part of the shoe upper (200; 305). [3] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising the step of molding (118) the shoe upper (200; 305), wherein the shoe upper (200; 305) is integral and continuous from a medial side to a lateral side, preferably in an instep part of the shoe upper (200; 305). [4] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one stretchable region (210; 310) is stretched more than any other region on the shoe upper (200; 305) during the stretchable region stretching step (120). [5] Method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the shoe upper (200; 305) is a sock-like shoe upper. [6] Method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to one of the preceding claims, wherein at least a part of the shoe upper (200; 305) is knitted. [7] Method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to the preceding claim, wherein the entire shoe upper (200; 305) is knitted and formed using a small circular knitting technique. [8] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the attached rigid element (220; 320) completely covers the stretchable region (210; 310). [9] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the rigid element (220; 320) is a shoe sole (320). [10] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein two or more stretchable regions (210; 310) are provided. [11] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the step of stretching (120) the stretchable region (210; 310) is performed by inserting a last into the shoe upper (200; 305). [12] Method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to the preceding claim, wherein the last is inflatable. [13] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to the preceding claim, further comprising the step of providing (114) at least one less stretchable region without the stretch yarn on the shoe upper (200; 305). [14] A method (100) for producing a shoe upper (200; 305) according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising the step of providing (116) a first knitted structure on the shoe upper (200; 305) and providing a second knitted structure in the at least one stretchable region, wherein the second knitted structure is more stretchable than the first knitted structure. [15] Shoe upper (200; 305) manufactured according to one of the preceding claims. [16] Shoe (300) comprising a shoe upper (200; 305) according to the preceding claim.

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