Method for treating keratin material, comprising the application of an organic C1-C6 alkooxysilane and an amino acid and / or an amino acid derivative

Description

[0001] The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a method for treating keratinic material, in particular human hair, which comprises the application of two compositions (A) and (B). Composition (A) is a preparation which contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane which is selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, and at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane,Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their condensation products, and composition (B) has a pH of 8.0 to 10.5 and contains at least one compound (B1) selected from the group consisting of amino acids and protein hydrolysates. The two compositions (A) and (B) are characterized in that their polymer content is each limited to a specific maximum content.

[0002] A second subject of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material, which comprises the two previously described compositions (A) and (B) separately packaged in two packaging units.

[0003] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring experts are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

[0004] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0005] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.

[0006] WO2020 / 089366A1 has a priority date prior to the priority date of the present invention, but was published after the latter. This document therefore represents prior art according to Art. 54(3) EPC. WO 2020 / 089366 A1 relates to cosmetic compositions for treating keratinic material, comprising at least one organic silicon compound (a) and an organic and / or inorganic acid with a pKa value of -6 to 5 (b).

[0007] WO 2013 / 087319 A2 describes colorants intended to provide improved coloration. For this purpose, WO 2013 / 087319 A2 proposes the use of an active ingredient combination comprising at least one water-soluble polymer with a functional alkoxysilane unit (a) and at least one polar alkoxysilane compound (b) of formula (SI).

[0008] WO 2018 / 115059 A1 relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising the application of an agent (A) containing two different organic silanes and the application of an agent (B) containing anionic direct dye and surfactant, wherein the agent (B) is applied after the agent (A).

[0009] EP 2168633 B1 addresses the problem of creating long-lasting hair colorings using pigments. The document teaches that using a combination of pigment, organic silicon compound, hydrophobic polymer, and a solvent, it is possible to create hair colorings that are particularly resistant to shampooing.

[0010] The organic silicon compounds used in EP 2168633 B1 are reactive compounds from the class of alkoxysilanes. These alkoxysilanes hydrolyze rapidly in the presence of water and form hydrolysis products and / or condensation products, depending on the amounts of alkoxysilane and water used. The influence of the amount of water used in this reaction on the properties of the hydrolysis or condensation product is described, for example, in WO 2013068979 A2.

[0011] When these alkoxysilanes or their hydrolysis or condensation products are applied to keratin material, a film or coating forms on the keratin material, completely enveloping the keratin material and thus strongly influencing its properties. Possible areas of application include, for example, permanent styling or the permanent modification of keratin fibers. In this process, the keratin fibers are mechanically shaped into the desired form and then fixed in this form by forming the aforementioned coating. Another particularly suitable application is the coloring of keratin material; in this application, the coating or film is created in the presence of a colorant, such as a pigment. The film colored by the pigment remains on the keratin material or keratin fibers and results in surprisingly wash-resistant colorations.

[0012] The major advantage of the alkoxysilane-based dyeing principle is that the high reactivity of this class of compounds enables very rapid coating. Thus, good dyeing results can be achieved after only a few minutes of application.

[0013] In prior art documents, such as EP 2168633 B1, film-forming polymers are often used in hair coloring processes to increase fastness properties. While the use of these polymers offers certain advantages with regard to increasing washfastness, their application also involves various disadvantages. Due to their film-forming properties, the polymers used in the coloring process of EP 2168633 B1 deposit on the keratin material, so that in addition to the organic silicon compounds, a second class of substances is used, which leads to a coating or covering on the keratin material. This increased film formation or the formation of very thick films can adversely weigh down the hair, so that in the worst case, the user perceives a sloppy hairstyle, lacks volume, and an unpleasant feel to the hair.Furthermore, it has been shown that the presence of the polymer can lead to problems when repeating the dyeing process. While very satisfactory color intensities were achieved with this dyeing system the first time, it became apparent during subsequent applications that residual polymer residues negatively affected the color intensity of the second dyeing. For this reason, there is still a great need for pigment dyeing systems that produce intense and wash-resistant dyeings without the use of polymers and, above all, that are not associated with a reduction in color intensity even upon repeated use.

[0014] The object of the present application was therefore to find a method for treating keratinous material that can also be used, in particular, in hair coloring, demonstrating improvements in color intensity and washfastness. Upon repeated use, the coloring performance should be just as high as during the initial application. The color intensities and washfastness should be improved compared to the colorations previously achievable with the formulations known from the prior art. Due to the disadvantages described above, the presence of polymers should be avoided to achieve this goal.

[0015] Surprisingly, it has been found that this task can be fully achieved if the keratin material is treated in a process in which two compositions (A) and (B) are applied to the keratin material. Here, the first composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, and at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane,Dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their condensation products, and the second composition (B) is characterized by its pH value of 8.0 to 10.5 and its content of at least one compound selected from the group of amino acids and protein hydrolysates. To achieve correspondingly good dyeing performance, even with repeated use, the presence of a polymer was not required in either composition (A) or composition (B).

[0016] A first object of the present invention is a method for treating keratinic material, in particular human hair, in which the following are applied to the keratinic material: a first composition (A) containing: (A1) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, and (A12) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their condensation products, and a second composition (B) which has a pH of 8.0 to 10.5 and which contains (B1) at least one compound,which is selected from the group of amino acids and protein hydrolysates, where the total content of all polymers contained in composition (A) - based on the total weight of composition (A) - is below 0.1 wt.%, and the total content of all polymers contained in composition (B) - based on the total weight of composition (B) - is below 0.1 wt.%.

[0017] When composition (A) was applied to the keratin material as part of a coloring process, an increase in color intensity was observed, especially when composition (B) was applied to the keratin material in the form of a post-treatment agent after application of composition (A). In addition to the increase in color intensity, an improvement in washfastness was also surprisingly observed. These effects could also be achieved without the presence of a polymer in compositions (A) and (B). In particular, when the coloring process was repeated, no reduction in color intensity was observed in the subsequent application. Treatment of keratin material

[0018] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.

[0019] Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is most preferably understood to mean human hair.

[0020] Agents for treating keratin material include, for example, agents for coloring keratin material, agents for reshaping or shaping keratin material, in particular keratin fibers, or agents for conditioning or caring for keratin material. The agents produced by the process according to the invention are particularly suitable for coloring keratin material, in particular for coloring keratin fibers, which are particularly preferably human hair.

[0021] The term "coloring agent" is used in the context of this invention for the coloring of keratin material, in particular hair, caused by the use of coloring compounds, such as thermochromic and photochromic dyes, pigments, mica, direct dyes, and / or oxidation dyes. During this coloring, the aforementioned coloring compounds are deposited in a particularly homogeneous and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material or diffuse into the keratin fiber. The film forms in situ by oligomerization or polymerization of the organic alkoxysilane(s), and by the interaction of the color-providing compound and the organic silicon compound and optionally further components, such as a film-forming polymer. Organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes (A1) and / or their condensation products in the composition (A)

[0022] The composition (A) is characterized in that it (A11) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, and (A12) at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, Contains dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or their condensation products.

[0023] Organic silicon compounds, alternatively also called organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is linked to the silicon atom via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom.

[0024] According to IUPAC rules, the term silane refers to a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen. In organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups.

[0025] A characteristic feature of the C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes according to the invention is that at least one C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group is directly bonded to a silicon atom. The C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes according to the invention thus comprise at least one structural unit R'R"R‴Si-O-(C 1 -C 6 alkyl), where the radicals R', R", and R‴ represent the three remaining bond valences of the silicon atom.

[0026] The C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group(s) bonded to the silicon atom are highly reactive and are hydrolyzed rapidly in the presence of water. The reaction rate depends, among other things, on the number of hydrolyzable groups per molecule. If the hydrolyzable C 1 -C 6 alkoxy group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R"R‴Si-O-CH2-CH3. The radicals R', R", and R‴ represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.

[0027] Even the addition of small amounts of water initially leads to hydrolysis and then a condensation reaction between the organic alkoxysilanes. For this reason, both the organic alkoxysilanes (A1) and their condensation products can be included in the composition.

[0028] A condensation product is understood to be a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes with elimination of water and / or with elimination of a C 1 -C 6 alkanol.

[0029] The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, whereby the condensation products are in equilibrium with the monomers.

[0030] Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane to condensation product.

[0031] Organic silicon compounds which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane. (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or

[0032] The process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A11) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)triethoxysilane (2-Aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (3-Dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-Dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or their condensation products.

[0033] The aforementioned organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are commercially available. (3-Aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0034] Dyeings with the best wash fastness properties could be obtained when the composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A12) selected from the group consisting of Methyltrimethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane Ethyltrimethoxysilane Ethyltriethoxysilane n-Hexyltrimethoxysilane (also known as hexyltrimethoxysilane) n-Hexyltriethoxysilane (also known as hexyltriethoxysilane) n-Octyltrimethoxysilane (also known as octyltrimethoxysilane) n-Octyltriethoxysilane (also known as octyltriethoxysilane) n-Dodecyltrimethoxysilane (also referred to as dodecyltrimethoxysilane) and / or n-Dodecyltriethoxysilane (also called dodecyltriethoxysilane).

[0035] I The process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane (A12) which is selected from the group consisting of Methyltrimethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane Ethyltrimethoxysilane Ethyltriethoxysilane Hexyltrimethoxysilane Hexyltriethoxysilane Octyltrimethoxysilane Octyltriethoxysilane Dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, and / or their condensation products.

[0036] The corresponding hydrolysis or condensation products are, for example, the following compounds. These condensation products are at most oligomeric compounds, but not polymers.

[0037] Hydrolysis of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of formula (SI) with water (reaction scheme using 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as an example):

[0038] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used: or

[0039] Hydrolysis of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of formula (S-IV) with water (reaction scheme using methyltrimethoxysilane as an example):

[0040] Depending on the amount of water used, the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used: or

[0041] Possible condensation reactions are, for example (shown using the mixture (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane): and / or and / or and / or and / or and / or and / or

[0042] In the above exemplary reaction schemes, the condensation to a dimer is shown, but further condensations to oligomers with several silane atoms are also possible and preferred.

[0043] The composition (A) according to the invention can contain the organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes in various proportions. These are determined by the person skilled in the art depending on the desired thickness of the silane coating on the keratin material and the amount of keratin material to be treated.

[0044] Particularly storage-stable preparations with very good dyeing results in use could be obtained when the composition (A) - based on its total weight - contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and / or the condensation products thereof in a total amount of 30.0 to 85.0 wt.%, preferably 35.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably 40.0 to 75.0 wt.%, even more preferably 45.0 to 70.0 wt.% and most preferably 50.0 to 65.0 wt.%.

[0045] In a further embodiment, a very particularly preferred process is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and / or the condensation products thereof in a total amount of 30.0 to 85.0 wt.%, preferably from 35.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably from 40.0 to 75.0 wt.%, even more preferably from 45.0 to 70.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 50.0 to 65.0 wt.%. Other cosmetic ingredients in the composition (A)

[0046] In addition, composition (A) may also contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.

[0047] The cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in composition (A) can be any suitable components to impart further beneficial properties to the product. For example, composition (A) can contain a solvent, a surface-active compound from the group of non-ionic, cationic, anionic, or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, coloring compounds from the group of pigments, direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors, fatty components from the group of C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, perfumes, preservatives, plant extracts, and protein hydrolysates.

[0048] As previously described, the content of polymers in composition (A) is limited to a maximum of 0.1 wt.% or preferably excluded entirely.

[0049] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the product. Regarding further optional components and the amounts used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert.

[0050] In this context, it has proven particularly preferred to use in composition (A) a cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0051] In another particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0052] Hexamethyldisiloxane has the CAS number 107-46-0 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0053] Octamethyltrisiloxane has the CAS number 107-51-7 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0054] Decamethyltetrasiloxane has the CAS number 141-62-8 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

[0055] Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane has the CAS No. 541-05-9.

[0056] Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane has the CAS number 556-67-2.

[0057] Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane has the CAS No. 541-02-6.

[0058] The use of hexamethyldisiloxane in composition (A) has proven particularly preferred. Hexamethyldisiloxane is particularly preferably present in composition (A) in amounts of 1.0 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 1.3 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of composition (A). Water content (A1) in composition (A)

[0059] The method according to the invention is characterized by the application of a first composition (A) to the keratinic material.

[0060] In the context of the present invention, composition (A) is a ready-to-use composition which, in its present form, can be applied to the keratin materials, in particular to the hair.

[0061] Within the scope of the process according to the invention, composition (A) can be provided in its present form in a container. However, with the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes, composition (A) contains highly reactive compounds. To avoid problems associated with storage stability, however, it is particularly preferred to prepare the ready-to-use and reactive composition (A) only shortly before use by mixing two or more storage-stable compositions. For example, the ready-to-use composition (A) can be prepared by mixing an aqueous silane blend (AI), which contains the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes in concentrated form, and a water-rich carrier formulation (A-II), which can be, for example, a gel, a lotion, or a surfactant system.

[0062] The ready-to-use composition (A) accordingly preferably has a higher water content, which - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - can be in the range from 50.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably from 55.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably from 60.0 to 90.0 wt.% and particularly preferably from 70.0 to 90.0 wt.%.

[0063] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - contains 50.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably from 55.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably 60.0 to 90.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 70.0 to 90.0 wt.% of water. pH of the compositions (A)

[0064] Further experiments have shown that the pH values of composition (A) can influence the color intensities achieved during dyeing. It was found that alkaline pH values, in particular, have a beneficial effect on the dyeing performance achievable in the process.

[0065] For this reason, it is preferred that the compositions (A) have a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0 and most preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0066] The pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the state of the art, such as pH measurement using glass electrodes via combination measuring chains or using pH indicator paper.

[0067] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (A) has a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably of 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably of 8.0 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0068] To adjust the above-mentioned pH values, the alkalizing agents can be used which can also be used to adjust the pH value of composition (B). Amino acids, protein hydrolysates and / or proteins in composition (B)

[0069] The method according to the invention comprises the application of a second composition (B) to the keratin material. The composition (B) is characterized in that it contains at least one compound selected from the group consisting of amino acids and / or protein hydrolysates.

[0070] An amino acid is a chemical compound with an amino group and a carboxylic acid group. The class of amino acids includes organic compounds that contain at least one amino group (-NH 2 or substituted -NR 2 ) and one carboxyl group (-COOH) as functional groups, i.e. they have structural features of amines and carboxylic acids. Chemically, they can be differentiated according to the position of their amino group to the carboxyl group - if the amino group on the C α atom is immediately adjacent to the terminal carboxyl group, this is called α-position and they are referred to as α-amino acids. Carboxylic acids with a total number of C atoms from C2-20, more preferably from C2-15, and particularly preferably from C2-10 are preferred.

[0071] Preferred amino acids are selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, serine, alanine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine and valine as well as mixtures of these amino acids.

[0072] Chiral amino acids possess a sterogenic center and can occur in mirror-image forms. For example, arginine occurs in the form of L-arginine and D-arginine. Both the L-form of an amino acid and its D-form, as well as mixtures thereof, are encompassed by the present invention. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as a specific compound or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L-configuration.

[0073] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one amino acid selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, histidine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, serine, alanine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine and valine.

[0074] The best results were obtained with arginine.

[0075] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains arginine.

[0076] To achieve the best possible washfastness, the amino acid(s) in composition (B) are preferably used in specific amounts. It has proven particularly advantageous if composition (B) contains one or more amino acids in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of composition (B).

[0077] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains one or more amino acids in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%.

[0078] Further good dyeing results with high color intensity and additionally improved wash fastness could be achieved when at least one protein hydrolysate was used in composition (B) in addition to or instead of the amino acid.

[0079] According to the invention, protein hydrolysates are degradation products of proteins produced by acidic, basic, or enzymatic reactions. Due to the production process, protein hydrolysates exhibit a molecular weight distribution. The protein hydrolysates according to the invention also include oligopeptides, as these can also be produced from proteins through corresponding reactions. Individual amino acids, which exist as discrete individual compounds, are not considered protein hydrolysates within the meaning of this invention. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of plant, animal, marine, or synthetic origin can be used.

[0080] Protein hydrolysates within the meaning of the present invention are understood to be oligomeric compounds composed of a maximum of 10 amino acids.

[0081] Animal protein hydrolysates include elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co.), Lexein ® (Inolex), ProSina ® (Croda), and Kerasol ® (Croda).

[0082] Also preferred according to the invention are plant protein hydrolysates such as soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda), and Puricare® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques.

[0083] Other protein hydrolysates preferred according to the invention are of marine origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae, as well as protein hydrolysates from mussels or pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.

[0084] Cationized protein hydrolysates are also included among the protein hydrolysates, whereby the underlying protein hydrolysate can be derived from animals, for example, from collagen, milk, or keratin; from plants, for example, from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy, or almonds; from marine life forms, for example, from fish collagen or algae; or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention are the commercially available products listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702).

[0085] Good results were observed when the composition (B) contained at least one protein hydrolysate selected from the hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, milk protein, as well as soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.

[0086] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains a protein hydrolysate which is selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, milk protein, soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.

[0087] To achieve the best possible washfastness, the protein hydrolysate(s) in composition (B) are preferably used in specific amounts. It has proven particularly advantageous if composition (B) contains one or more protein hydrolysates in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of composition (B).

[0088] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains one or more protein hydrolysates in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%.

[0089] Oligopeptides are also protein hydrolysates according to the invention. Oligopeptides may be preferred in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention due to their defined amino acid sequence.

[0090] An oligopeptide containing at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu wherein the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxyl groups can be free or deprotonated, can be particularly preferred according to the invention. In this and all the following formulas, the bracketed hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the bracketed hydroxy group of the acid function, means that the groups in question can be present as such (in which case it is an oligopeptide with the relevant number of amino acids as in the above formula), or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide that also comprises further amino acids - depending on where the further amino acid(s) is / are bonded, the bracketed components of the above formula are replaced by the further amino acid residue(s).

[0091] Oligopeptides within the meaning of the present application are condensation products of amino acids linked in an acid amide manner by peptide bonds, which comprise at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids. In hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention, the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids, and in particular 8, 9, or 10 amino acids. Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence and depending on the type of these amino acids, the molecular weight of the oligopeptide contained in the agents according to the invention can vary. Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide has a molecular weight of 650 to 3000 Da, preferably of 750 to 2500 Da, particularly preferably of 850 to 2000 Da, and in particular of 1000 to 1600 Da.As can be seen from the preferred number of amino acids in the oligopeptides and the preferred molecular weight range, oligopeptides are preferably used which do not consist solely of the three glutamic acids, but also have further amino acids bound to this sequence. These further amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred according to the invention. A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably bound to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its acid function. Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide they contain has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu. wherein the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

[0092] Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably bound to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained therein contains at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile. wherein the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

[0093] Oligopeptides containing both of the aforementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are those in which the oligopeptide contained therein has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile. wherein the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

[0094] Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine

[0095] Even more preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine. Further preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide they contain has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val. wherein the amino groups can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated. Even more preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the valine. Hair treatment agents further preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained therein has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu. wherein the amino groups can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

[0096] Particularly preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine. Further preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained therein has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu. wherein the amino groups can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated. Water content of composition (B)

[0097] The composition (B) contains the amino acid(s), protein hydrolysates and / or proteins in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.

[0098] In this context, it has been found to be preferred if the composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains 5.0 to 99.0 wt.%, preferably 15.0 to 97.0 wt.%, more preferably 25.0 to 97.0 wt.%, even more preferably 35.0 to 97.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 45.0 to 97.0 wt.% of water.

[0099] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - contains 5.0 to 99.0 wt.%, preferably 15.0 to 97.0 wt.%, more preferably 25.0 to 97.0 wt.%, even more preferably 35.0 to 97.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 45.0 to 97.0 wt.% of water. Other cosmetic ingredients in the composition (B)

[0100] In addition, composition (B) may also contain one or more other cosmetic ingredients.

[0101] The cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in composition (B) can be any suitable components to impart further beneficial properties to the product. For example, composition (B) can contain a solvent, a surface-active compound from the group of non-ionic, cationic, anionic, or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, coloring compounds from the group of pigments, direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors, fatty components from the group of C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, perfumes, preservatives, and plant extracts.

[0102] As previously described, the content of polymers in composition (B) is limited to a maximum of 0.1 wt.% or preferably excluded entirely.

[0103] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the product. Regarding further optional components and the amounts used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. pH of the compositions (B)

[0104] Further experiments have shown that the pH values of composition (B) can also influence the color intensities and washfastness achieved during dyeing. It was found that alkaline pH values, in particular, have a beneficial effect on the dyeing performance achievable in the process.

[0105] For this reason, compositions (B) have a pH value of 8.0 to 10.5.

[0106] The pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the state of the art, such as pH measurement using glass electrodes via combination measuring chains or using pH indicator paper.

[0107] To adjust this alkaline pH, it may be necessary to add an alkalizing agent and / or acidifying agent to the reaction mixture. The pH values used in the present invention are pH values measured at a temperature of 22°C.

[0108] Ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids can be used as alkalizing agents.

[0109] Alkanolamines can be selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent structure bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.

[0110] If basic amino acids are used in composition (B), it is also possible to adjust the pH by adding the basic amino acids themselves. For the purposes of the invention, basic amino acids are those amino acids that have an isoelectric point pI greater than 7.0.

[0111] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L-configuration.

[0112] The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and / or histidine.

[0113] Inorganic alkalizing agents can also be used. Inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate.

[0114] Very particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.

[0115] In addition to the alkalizing agents described above, those skilled in the art are familiar with common acidifying agents for fine-tuning the pH. Preferred acidifying agents according to the invention are food acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, or tartaric acid, as well as diluted mineral acids. No polymers in composition (A) and (B)

[0116] The process according to the invention is characterized in that the compositions (A) and (B) used in the process are essentially free of polymers.

[0117] A characteristic of composition (A) is that the total content of all polymers contained in composition (A) - based on the total weight of composition (A) - is below 0.1 wt.%.

[0118] Composition (B) is also characterized in that the total content of all polymers contained in composition (B) - based on the total weight of composition (B) - is below 0.1 wt.%.

[0119] By omitting polymers in the two compositions (A) and (B), a possibility was found to subject keratinous material, in particular keratinous fibers such as hair, to repeated coloring processes without the user noticing a reduction in color intensity during subsequent applications.

[0120] Polymers are understood to be macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units. The polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers prepared by polymerizing one monomer type or by polymerizing different, structurally different monomer types. If the polymer is prepared by polymerizing one monomer type, it is referred to as a homopolymer. If structurally different monomer types are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.

[0121] The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol, and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.

[0122] The composition (A) used in the process according to the invention can contain the condensation product of an organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane. The condensation products (A1) are oligomeric compounds that do not fall under the definition of a polymer. However, it cannot be completely ruled out that under exceptional storage conditions, such as particularly long storage times or very high temperatures, a very small proportion of the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes in composition (A) condenses not only to oligomeric compounds but also to polymeric compounds.

[0123] Furthermore, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may contain a protein hydrolysate. Protein hydrolysates (B1) are also oligomeric compounds that do not fall under the definition of a polymer. However, in the case of protein hydrolysates (B1), it cannot be categorically ruled out that the purchase of a corresponding commercially available protein hydrolysate (B1) may result in a raw material that may also contain very small amounts of a high-molecular-weight protein as a byproduct.

[0124] When the total content of all polymers contained in composition (A) - based on the total weight of composition (A) - was limited to a value below 0.01 wt.%, the results could be further improved.

[0125] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the total content of all polymers contained in the composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - is below 0.01 wt.%.

[0126] The same applies to composition (B). When the total content of all polymers contained in composition (B)—based on the total weight of composition (B)—was limited to a value below 0.01 wt.%, the results could be further improved.

[0127] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the total content of all polymers contained in the composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - is below 0.01 wt.%.

[0128] Compositions (A) and (B) are particularly preferably substantially free of film-forming compounds. The film-forming polymers can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.

[0129] In a further embodiment, it may be preferable to dispense with the use of a hydrophobic, film-forming polymer in preparation (A) and / or (B).

[0130] A hydrophobic polymer is a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 °C (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%.

[0131] The water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, as follows: 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. The beaker is filled to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added, and the mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stirring is continued for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to high turbidity, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the polymer's solubility is less than 1 wt.%.

[0132] In particular, acrylic acid-type polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers, nitrocellulose polymers, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers and polyisoprenes can be mentioned here.

[0133] Film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

[0134] Other film-forming hydrophobic polymers that can be mentioned are the compounds selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by radical polymerization or natural polymers.

[0135] Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinylamides, the esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid with at least one C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, an aryl group or a C 2 -C 10 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0136] Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate; isopentyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate); isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl (meth)acrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate and / or mixtures thereof.

[0137] Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl-(meth)acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide; N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamide.

[0138] Examples of anionic polymers include copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 alkyl esters, which are marketed under the INCI label "Acrylates Copolymers." One commercial product is Aculyn®< 33 from Rohm & Haas. Other polymers include copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

[0139] Polymers currently on the market include Aculyn ®< 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn ®< 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001 ®< (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001 ®< (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Pluso (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol ®< 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000 ®< (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or Soltex OPT, marketed by Rohme and Haas. (Acrylates / C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer).

[0140] Examples of polymers based on vinyl monomers include the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkylpyrrole, vinyloxazole, vinylthiazole, vinylpyrimidine and vinylimidazole.

[0141] Also suitable are the copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, as marketed commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER ®< or LOVOCRYL ®< 47, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamide marketed under the trade names DERMACRYL ®< LT and DERMACRYL ®< 79.

[0142] Examples of polymers based on olefins include homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.

[0143] Other film-forming hydrophobic polymers are block copolymers, which comprise at least one block of styrene or styrene derivatives. These block copolymers can be copolymers that contain one or more additional blocks in addition to a styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, or styrene / butadiene. These polymers are marketed commercially by BASF under the trade name "Luvitol HSB."

[0144] All these polymers are used in the process according to the invention in compositions (A) and (B) at most in the maximum amounts described above.

[0145] Other polymers are hydrophilic, film-forming polymers.

[0146] A hydrophilic polymer is understood to be a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 °C (760 mmHg) of more than 1 wt.%, preferably more than 2 wt.%.

[0147] The water solubility of a film-forming, hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, as follows: 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. The volume is made up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added, and the mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stirring is continued for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. A completely dissolved polymer appears homogeneous microscopically. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to high turbidity, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the polymer's solubility is greater than 1 wt.%.

[0148] Non-ionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be called film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.

[0149] For example, film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can be selected from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co)polymers.

[0150] Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) can also be mentioned as a film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.

[0151] Corresponding polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol ®< K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskol ®< K 90 or Luviskol ®< K 85 from BASF SE.

[0152] Another polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) that can be mentioned is the polymer PVP K30, which is marketed by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical). PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone that is highly soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8. The molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approximately 40,000 g / mol.

[0153] Other polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.

[0154] Other film-forming, hydrophilic polymers that can be mentioned in this context are vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73 are each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.

[0155] The group of vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymers also includes styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer and / or a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer.

[0156] Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are marketed under the name Luviskol®< VA by BASF SE. A VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer, for example, is marketed under the trade name Aquaflex®< SF-40 by Ashland Inc. A VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer, for example, is marketed under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland.

[0157] Other suitable copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone include the copolymers obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one other monomer from the group consisting of N-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol.

[0158] Another copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name Maltodextrin / VP Copolymer.

[0159] For the purposes of the invention, a nonionic polymer is defined as a polymer that, in a protic solvent—such as water—under standard conditions, does not contain structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups that must be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality. Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups but not protonated amines. Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

[0160] Corresponding non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymers are selected from the group consisting of Polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N,N-di(C 1 to C 4 )-alkylamino-(C 2 to C 4 )-alkylacrylamide.

[0161] If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, the molar ratio of the structural units contained in the N-vinylpyrrolidone monomer to the structural units of the polymer contained in the vinyl acetate monomer can be in the range from 20 to 80 to 80 to 20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40. Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol ®< VA 37, Luviskol ®< VA 55, Luviskol ®< VA 64, and Luviskol ®< VA 73 from BASF SE.

[0162] Another polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

[0163] Another non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N,N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, which is sold, for example, with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, e.g., under the trade name Styleze ®< CC 10 by the company ISP.

[0164] A cationic ePolymer is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is marketed, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ®< 300 (28-32 wt.% active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) by the company ISP.

[0165] Other film-forming, hydrophilic polymers include Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as sold under the names Luviquat ®< FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552, vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, as sold with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, for example under the name Aquaflex ®< SF 40.

[0166] Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart®< CC 11 and Luviquat®< PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755, or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.

[0167] Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat ®< Hold from BASF SE.

[0168] Examples of anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers include acrylic acid polymers, which can be present in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form. Corresponding products are marketed commercially under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by Lubrizol, or under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).

[0169] Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.

[0170] Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of polysaccharides are hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, ethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose.

[0171] Film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the acrylamide group include, for example, polymers prepared from monomers of (methyl)acrylamido-C1-C4-alkylsulfonic acid or salts thereof. Such polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.

[0172] Crosslinked and fully or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names "Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulphonate" or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide".

[0173] Another polymer of this type is the cross-linked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer, which is partially neutralised with ammonia and is sold by Clamant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS.

[0174] All these polymers are used in the process according to the invention in compositions (A) and (B) at most in the maximum amounts described above. Process for coloring keratin material

[0175] In the course of the work leading to this invention, it was observed that the use of compositions (A) and (B) in a dyeing process leads to dyeings with particularly high color intensity and good washfastness. Good results were obtained, particularly with repeated use.

[0176] If the method according to the invention is a method for coloring keratin material, at least one method step comprises the application of at least one color-providing compound, in particular at least one pigment. In this case, it is possible to incorporate the pigment into composition (A). It is also possible to add at least one pigment to composition (B). Furthermore, it is furthermore according to the invention if the color-providing compound, in particular the pigment, is incorporated into a third composition (C), which can be applied to the keratin material, for example, before or after composition (A).

[0177] It has been found to be particularly preferred if the first composition (A) additionally contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and direct dyes.

[0178] Within the scope of an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.

[0179] Furthermore, it has also been found to be particularly preferred if the second composition (B) additionally contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and direct dyes.

[0180] Within the scope of an explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.

[0181] The coloring compound(s) can preferably be selected from pigments and direct dyes, whereby the direct dyes can also be photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.

[0182] Most preferably, composition (A) and / or composition (B) contains at least one pigment.

[0183] Pigments in the sense of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

[0184] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.

[0185] In a preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.

[0186] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0187] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0188] Also particularly preferred coloring compounds from the group of pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the group of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

[0189] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0190] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).

[0191] In a further preferred embodiment, the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from mica- or mica-based coloring compounds coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0192] In a further preferred embodiment, a composition (A) and / or composition (B) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0193] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.

[0194] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona ®< are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491(Iron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,

[0195] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona ®< are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

[0196] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ®< are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0197] In a further embodiment, composition (A) and / or composition (B) may also contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments

[0198] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0199] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0200] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of organic pigments, which is selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360,CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.,

[0201] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the aforementioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.

[0202] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.

[0203] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agents according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the formed polymer film and, on the other hand, avoids a rough feeling in the hair or skin after application of the cosmetic agent. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably from 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably from 10 to 40 µm, in particular from 14 to 30 µm. The average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0204] Pigments with a specific shape can also be used to color the keratin material. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and / or lenticular substrate plate can be used. Furthermore, coloring based on a substrate plate containing a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.

[0205] The substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, more preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, more preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Preferably, each substrate platelet has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.

[0206] Due to the low thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high covering power.

[0207] The substrate platelets have a monolithic structure. Monolithic in this context means consisting of a single, closed unit without fractures, stratification, or inclusions, although structural changes may occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably homogeneous, meaning that no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets do not have a layered structure and do not contain any particles or particles distributed within them.

[0208] The size of the substrate platelet can be tailored to the specific application, especially the desired effect on the keratin material. Typically, the substrate platelets have an average diameter of approximately 2 to 200 µm, particularly approximately 5 to 100 µm.

[0209] In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, and particularly preferably more than 750. The average size of the uncoated substrate platelets is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate platelets. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be tested was predispersed in isopropanol for 3 minutes.

[0210] The substrate platelets can be made of any material that can be formed into platelets.

[0211] They can be of natural origin or synthetically produced. Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed include metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi-)precious stones, as well as plastics. The substrate platelets are preferably made of metal (or metal alloys).

[0212] Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air- and water-resistant (semi-)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum, and silicon, as well as their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver, and gold. Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with aluminum platelets being particularly preferred.

[0213] Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also called "cornflakes" due to their appearance.

[0214] Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high degree of scattered light. Furthermore, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinous material, and effects similar to natural graying can be achieved, for example.

[0215] Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate platelets have a generally regular, round edge and are also called "silver dollars" due to their appearance. Due to their regular structure, the proportion of reflected light predominates in pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets.

[0216] Vacuum metallized pigments ( vacuum metallized pigments,VMPs can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys, or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are characterized by a particularly low thickness of the substrate platelets in the range of 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets comprising a vacuum-metallized pigment are also referred to as VMP substrate platelets in this application. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.

[0217] The substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

[0218] Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VPM substrate plates, especially those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop, but no color impression.

[0219] A color impression can be created, for example, due to optical interference effects. Such pigments can be based on substrate platelets with at least a single coating. These exhibit interference effects through the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light rays.

[0220] Accordingly, preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated lamellar substrate platelet. The substrate platelet preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm. A further coating A is preferably present between the coating B and the surface of the substrate platelet. Optionally, a further coating C, which is different from the underlying layer B, is present on the layer B.

[0221] Suitable materials for coatings A, B, and C are all substances that can be applied to the substrate platelets in a film-like and permanent manner and, in the case of layers A and B, have the required optical properties. In general, coating part of the surface of the substrate platelets is sufficient to obtain a pigment with a glossy effect. For example, only the top and / or bottom side of the substrate platelets can be coated, leaving the side surface(s) uncoated. Preferably, the entire surface of the optionally passivated substrate platelets, including the side surfaces, is covered by coating B. The substrate platelets are therefore completely encased in coating B. This improves the optical properties of the pigment and increases the mechanical and chemical strength of the pigments. The above also applies to layer A and preferably also to layer C, if present.

[0222] Although several coatings A, B and / or C may be present, the coated substrate platelets preferably have only one coating A, B and, if present, C.

[0223] Coating B is composed of at least one high-index metal oxide. High-index materials have a refractive index of at least 1.9, preferably at least 2.0, and particularly preferably at least 2.4. Coating B preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of high-index metal oxide(s).

[0224] Coating B has a thickness of at least 50 nm. Preferably, the thickness of coating B is not more than 400 nm, particularly preferably not more than 300 nm.

[0225] High-index metal oxides suitable for coating B are preferably selectively light-absorbing (i.e., colored) metal oxides, such as iron(III) oxide (α- and γ-Fe2O3, red), cobalt(II) oxide (blue), chromium(III) oxide (green), titanium(III) oxide (blue, usually present in a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides), and vanadium(V) oxide (orange), as well as mixtures thereof. Colorless high-index oxides such as titanium dioxide and / or zirconium oxide are also suitable.

[0226] Coating B may contain a selectively absorbing dye, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of coating B. Suitable dyes are organic and inorganic dyes that can be stably incorporated into a metal oxide coating.

[0227] Coating A preferably comprises at least one low-refractive-index metal oxide and / or metal oxide hydrate. Coating A preferably comprises at least 95 wt.%, particularly preferably at least 99 wt.%, of low-refractive-index metal oxide (hydrate). Low-refractive-index materials have a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6.

[0228] Low-refractive-index metal oxides suitable for coating A include, for example, silicon dioxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide, and mixtures thereof, with silicon dioxide being preferred. Coating A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, more preferably 5 to 50 nm, and most preferably 5 to 20 nm.

[0229] Preferably, the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and the inner surface of coating B is at most 100 nm, more preferably at most 50 nm, especially preferably at most 20 nm. By keeping the thickness of coating A and thus the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and coating B in the range specified above, it can be ensured that the pigments have a high hiding power.

[0230] If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate platelet has only one layer A, it is preferred that the pigment has a lamellar substrate platelet made of aluminum and a layer A of silicon dioxide. If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate platelet has a layer A and a layer B, it is preferred that the pigment has a lamellar substrate platelet made of aluminum, a layer A of silicon dioxide, and a layer B of iron oxide.

[0231] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments have a further coating C of a metal oxide (hydrate), which is different from the underlying coating B. Suitable metal oxides are, for example, silicon (di)oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron(III) oxide, and chromium(III) oxide. Silicon dioxide is preferred.

[0232] Coating C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm. By providing coating C, for example based on TiO 2 , better interference can be achieved while still ensuring high hiding power.

[0233] Layers A and C serve in particular as corrosion protection as well as for chemical and physical stabilization. Layers A and C particularly preferably contain silicon dioxide or aluminum oxide, which are applied using the sol-gel process. This process comprises dispersing the uncoated lamellar substrate platelets or the lamellar substrate platelets already coated with layer A and / or layer B in a solution of a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide (usually in a solution of organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvent and water with at least 50 wt.% organic solvent such as a C1 to C4 alcohol), and adding a weak base or acid to hydrolyze the metal alkoxide, thereby forming a film of the metal oxide on the surface of the (coated) substrate platelets.

[0234] Layer B can be produced, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and / or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if necessary, subsequent post-treatment (for example, transferring a formed hydroxide-containing layer into the oxide layer by tempering).

[0235] Although each of the coatings A, B and / or C may be composed of a mixture of two or more metal oxide (hydrates), each of the coatings is preferably composed of one metal oxide (hydrate).

[0236] The pigments based on coated lamellar or lenticular substrate platelets or the pigments based on coated VMP substrate platelets preferably have a thickness of 70 to 500 nm, more preferably 100 to 400 nm, especially preferably 150 to 320 nm, for example 180 to 290 nm. Due to the low thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has particularly high hiding power. The low thickness of the coated substrate platelets is achieved in particular by keeping the thickness of the uncoated substrate platelets low, but also by setting the thicknesses of coatings A and, if present, C to the smallest possible value. The thickness of coating B determines the color impression of the pigment.

[0237] The adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on coated substrate platelets in the keratinic material can be significantly increased by additionally modifying the outermost layer, layer A, B, or C, depending on the structure, with organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates, or carboxylic acids. The organic compounds are bound to the surface of the outermost, preferably metal oxide-containing, layer A, B, or C. The outermost layer is the layer spatially furthest away from the lamellar substrate platelet. The organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds that can bind to the metal oxide-containing layer A, B, or C. These can be either monofunctional or bifunctional compounds.Beispiele für bifunktionelle organische Verbindungen sind Methacryloxypropenyltrimethoxysilan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilan, 3- Acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilan, 2-Acryloxyethyltrimethoxysilan, 3-Methacryloxy- propyltriethoxysilan, 3-Acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilan, 2-Methacryloxyethyl- triethoxysilan, 2-Acryloxyethyltriethoxysilan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltris(methoxyethoxy)silan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltris(butoxyethoxy)silan, 3-Methacryloxy-propyltris(propoxy)silan, 3-Methacryloxypropyltris(butoxy)silan, 3-Acryloxy-propyltris(methoxyethoxy)silan, 3-Acryloxypropyltris(butoxyethoxy)silan, 3-Acryl-oxypropyltris(butoxy)silan, Vinyltrimethoxysilan, Vinyltriethoxysilan, Vinylethyl- dichlorsilan, Vinylmethyldiacetoxysilan, Vinylmethyldichlorsilan, Vinylmethyldiethoxysilan, Vinyltriacetoxysilan, Vinyltrichlorsilan, Phenylvinyldiethoxysilan, oder Phenylallyldichlorsilan.Furthermore, modification can be carried out with a monofunctional silane, in particular an alkylsilane or arylsilane. This has only one functional group, which can bond covalently to the surface of the pigment based on coated lamellar substrate platelets (i.e., to the outermost metal oxide-containing layer) or, if not completely covered, to the metal surface. The hydrocarbon radical of the silane points away from the pigment. Depending on the type and nature of the hydrocarbon radical of the silane, a different degree of hydrophobization of the pigment is achieved. Examples of such silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc. Particular preference is given to pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated aluminum substrate platelets surface-modified with a monofunctional silane. Particular preference is given to octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hecadecyltrimethoxysilane, and hecadecyltriethoxysilane.The modified surface properties / hydrophobization can result in improvements in adhesion, abrasion resistance and alignment during application.

[0238] Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.

[0239] Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace ®< Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0240] Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace ®< Marvelous or Alegrace ®< Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0241] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (A) contains one or more pigments in a total amount of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (A).

[0242] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) contains - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - one or more pigments in a total of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight.

[0243] The compositions according to the invention can also contain one or more direct dyes as coloring compounds. Direct dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.

[0244] The direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L. Particularly preferably, the direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.5 g / L.

[0245] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and non-ionic direct dyes.

[0246] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or non-ionic direct dye as the coloring compound.

[0247] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) and / or the composition (C) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of anionic, non-ionic, and / or cationic direct dyes.

[0248] Geeignete kationische direktziehende Farbstoffe sind beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76

[0249] Non-ionic direct dyes that can be used include non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Suitable non-ionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "N" and "N" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

[0250] Anionic substantive dyes are also known as acid dyes. Acid dyes are understood to be substantive dyes that contain at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H). Depending on the pH, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO 3 H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO -< , -SO 3 -< before). As the pH decreases, the proportion of protonated forms increases. If substantive dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electroneutrality. Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.

[0251] The acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L.

[0252] The alkaline earth metal salts (such as calcium and magnesium salts) and aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct dye.

[0253] A key feature of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, with the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this being typically linked to various chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes, and / or indophenol dyes.

[0254] As particularly suitable acid dyes, for example, one or more compounds can be selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°: C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Covacap Jaune W1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (CI 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1;CI 20170;KATSU201;nosodiumsalt;Brown No.201;RESORCIN BROWN;ACID ORANGE 24;Japan Brown 201;D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (CI14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Rot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.I.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n° C53, CI 45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine,Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet n° 2, C.I. 60730, COLIPA n° C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blau V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, C.I.Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.I.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.I.42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brillantsäuregrün BS, C.I. 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 und / oder D&C Brown 1.

[0255] The water solubility of anionic direct dyes can be determined, for example, as follows: 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir bar is attached. Then, 100 ml of water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If undissolved residues remain, the amount of water is increased—for example, in 10 ml increments. Water is added until the used amount of dye has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated using a larger amount of water.If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 °C, the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.

[0256] Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25°C).

[0257] Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and sulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 °C).

[0258] Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 °C).

[0259] Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is readily soluble in water at 25 °C.

[0260] Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is greater than 7 g / L (25 °C).

[0261] Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high water solubility of more than 20 wt%. Acid Red 33 is the dibasic salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonate; its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 °C).

[0262] Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose water solubility is stated to be greater than 10 g / L (25 °C).

[0263] Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl]amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20 wt% (25 °C).

[0264] Thermochromic dyes can also be used. Thermochromism refers to the property of a material to change its color reversibly or irreversibly depending on temperature. This can occur by changing the intensity and / or the wavelength maximum.

[0265] Finally, it is also possible to use photochromic dyes. Photochromism refers to the property of a material to change its color reversibly or irreversibly depending on exposure to light, especially UV light. This can occur by changing the intensity and / or the wavelength maximum. Application of compositions (A) and (B)

[0266] The method according to the invention comprises the application of the two compositions (A) and (B) to the keratin material. The two compositions (A) and (B) are two different compositions.

[0267] As already described above, it is particularly preferred if the composition (A) is first applied to the keratin material and then the composition (B) is applied to the keratin material in the form of a post-treatment agent.

[0268] In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention comprising the following steps is particularly preferred: (1) Applying the first composition (A) to the keratin material, (2) Allowing the composition (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (3) Rinsing the composition (A) out of the keratin material, (4) Applying the composition (B) to the keratin material, (5) Allowing the composition (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (6) Rinsing the composition (B) out of the keratin material.

[0269] According to the invention, rinsing the keratin material with water in steps (3) and (6) of the method means that only water is used for the rinsing process, without any further compositions other than compositions (a) and (b) being used.

[0270] In a step (1), the composition (A) is first applied to the keratin materials, in particular the human hair.

[0271] After application, composition (A) is allowed to act on the keratin materials. In this context, exposure times of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 20 seconds to 5 minutes, and most preferably 30 seconds to 2 minutes on the hair have proven particularly advantageous.

[0272] In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the composition (A) can now be rinsed out of the keratin materials before the composition (B) is applied to the hair in the subsequent step.

[0273] In step (4), composition (B) is applied to the keratin materials. After application, composition (B) is allowed to act on the hair.

[0274] The process according to the invention allows the creation of colorations with particularly good intensity and washfastness, even with a short contact time for compositions (A) and (B). Contact times of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 20 seconds to 5 minutes, and most preferably 30 seconds to 3 minutes on the hair have proven particularly advantageous.

[0275] In step (6) the composition (B) is now rinsed out of the keratin material with water.

[0276] In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention comprising the following steps in the specified order is particularly preferred: (1) Applying the first composition (A) to the keratin material, (2) Allowing the composition (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (3) Rinsing the composition (A) out of the keratin material, (4) Applying the composition (B) to the keratin material, (5) Allowing the composition (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (6) Rinsing the composition (B) out of the keratin material. Multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts)

[0277] To increase user convenience, all preparations necessary for the application process, in particular for the dyeing process, are provided to the user in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts).

[0278] A second subject of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for treating keratinic material, comprising separately packaged a first container with a first composition (A) and a second container with a second composition (B), wherein the compositions (A) and (B) have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

[0279] Furthermore, the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention can also comprise a third packaging unit containing a cosmetic preparation (C). Preparation (C) very particularly preferably contains, as described above, at least one color-providing compound.

[0280] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the multi-component packaging unit (kit of parts) according to the invention comprises separately assembled a third container with a third composition (C), wherein the third composition (C) contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes.

[0281] The color-providing compounds from the group of pigments and direct dyes have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

[0282] Regarding the further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention, mutatis mutantis what has been said about the method according to the invention.

Claims

1. A method of treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising applying to the keratinous material - a first composition (A) comprising: (A11) at least one organic C1-C6alkoxy silane selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyltrimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)-triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyltrimethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)-triethoxy-silane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, and (A12) at least one organic C1-C6alkoxysilane selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane and / or condensation products thereof, - a second composition (B) which has a pH of from 8.0 to 10.5 and which contains (B1) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of amino acids and protein hydrolysates, wherein - the total content of all polymers contained in the composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - is below 0.1% by weight, and - the total content of all polymers contained in the composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - is below 0.1% by weight.

2. A method according to claim 1, characterised in that the first composition (A) contains at least one cosmetic ingredient from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and octamethyltrisiloxane. octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

3. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterised in that the second composition (B) comprises at least one amino acid (B1) selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, histidine, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, serine, alanine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine, tyrosine and valine.

4. Process according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - one or more amino acids (B1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight.

5. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains at least one protein hydrolysate (B1) selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, milk protein, soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.

6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - one or more protein hydrolysates (B1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight.

7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterised in that the total content of all polymers contained in the composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - is below 0.01% by weight.

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the total content of all polymers contained in the composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - is below 0.01% by weight.

9. A method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterised in that the first composition (A) contains at least one colouring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct-drawing dyes.

10. A method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterised in that the second composition (B) contains at least one colouring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct-drawing dyes.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising the following steps: (1) applying the first composition (A) to the keratin material, (2) allowing the agent (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (3) rinsing the agent (A) out of the keratin material, (4) applying the agent (B) to the keratin material, (5) allowing the agent (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (6) rinsing the agent (B) out of the keratin material.

12. Multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for treating keratinous material, comprising separately assembled - a first container with a first composition (A) and - a second container with a second composition (B), wherein the compositions (A) and (B) are defined in one of claims 1 to 10.