Keratin coloring agent containing aminosilicone, color-giving compound and ethoxylated fatty acid ester

Description

[0001] The present application relates to an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II), at least one color-imparting compound from the group of pigments (a2) and at least one addition product of ethylene oxide with esters formed from C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a3).

[0002] A second subject matter of this application is a method for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, wherein an agent of the first subject matter of the invention is applied to the keratinic material, allowed to act and then washed out again with water.

[0003] Altering the shape and color of keratinous material, especially human hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring specialists are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

[0004] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0005] WO 2015 / 090804 A1 relates to a water-based agent for dyeing keratin fibers, which has a pH value of 1.0 to 5.5 and which contains an aminosilicone and a direct acid dye.

[0006] The subject matter of the application WO 2014 / 044602 A2 are agents for treating keratin material, containing an acid (a), a direct dye (b) and an aminosilicone.

[0007] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.

[0008] DE 10 2014 221 536 A1 describes agents for temporarily changing the color of keratin fibers, which contain at least 20% by weight of C2-C8 alcohols (a), at least one color pigment (b) and at least one non-ionic, polyalkoxylated silicone (c).

[0009] WO 2018 / 206453 A1 relates to compositions for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising at least one copolymer of crotonic acid and vinyl ester (i), a silicone (ii) and a pigment (iii).

[0010] If the user desires particularly long-lasting color results, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been the only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative colorants also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair. Therefore, the search for alternative, high-performance coloring processes remains a challenge. In particular, the color intensity and washfastness of colorants based on the use of pigments still require significant improvement.

[0011] The object of the present invention was to provide a coloring system that, if possible, achieves color intensities comparable to oxidative coloring. However, the use of the oxidation dye precursors typically used for this purpose should be avoided. The aim was to find a technology that would enable the coloring compounds known from the prior art (such as pigments in particular) to be fixed to the hair in an extremely permanent manner. When used in a coloring process, the agents should achieve particularly intense coloring results with good fastness properties. Furthermore, the agents should also have improved gray coverage.

[0012] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the above-mentioned object can be excellently achieved if keratinic materials, in particular hair, are colored with an agent which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II), at least one color-imparting compound from the group of pigments (a2), and at least one addition product of ethylene oxide with esters formed from C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a3).

[0013] A first subject of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II) and (a2) at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments, and (a3) ​​at least one addition product of ethylene oxide with esters formed from C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols

[0014] In the course of the work carried out on this invention, it has surprisingly been found that the use of an ethoxylated fatty acid ester (a3) ​​in an agent containing the aminosilicone (a1) and a pigment (a2) leads to an improvement in the color intensity when this agent is applied in a coloring process on the keratinous material, in particular on human hair. keratin material

[0015] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.

[0016] Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is most preferably understood to mean human hair. Coloring agents

[0017] In the context of this invention, the term "coloring agent" refers to the coloring of keratin material, especially hair, achieved through the use of coloring compounds, particularly pigments. During this coloring, the pigments, as coloring compounds, are deposited on the surface of the keratin material in a particularly homogeneous, uniform, and smooth film. amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1)

[0018] As the first ingredient (a1) essential to the invention, the product contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II). The amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively also be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.

[0019] Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which comprise repeating organic units.

[0020] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is no more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably no more than 10 6 g / mol, and particularly preferably no more than 10 5 g / mol.

[0021] Silicone polymers comprise numerous Si-O repeating units, where the Si atoms may carry organic residues such as alkyl or substituted alkyl groups. A silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.

[0022] In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units.

[0023] An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is a functionalized silicone that contains at least one structural unit with an amino group. An amino group can be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, or a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and then exist in their cationic form.

[0024] Colorations with the very best wash fastnesses could be obtained when, in the process according to the invention, at least one agent (a) was applied to the keratinic material, which agent contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)

[0025] The agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)

[0026] A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is commercially distributed by the Dow Chemical Company and which has the name "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" and the CAS number 106842-44-8.

[0027] It has proven particularly advantageous if the agent according to the invention contains the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) (a1) in specific amount ranges. Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contains—based on the total weight of the agent—a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%.

[0028] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.% and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. color-giving compounds (a2)

[0029] As a second essential component, the agent according to the invention contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of pigments (a2).

[0030] For the purposes of the invention, coloring compounds are understood to be substances capable of imparting color to the keratin material. The coloring compounds are selected from the group of pigments and dyes.

[0031] Pigments in the sense of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

[0032] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.

[0034] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0035] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0036] Also particularly preferred color pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the class of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

[0037] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).

[0038] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0039] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a) at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of pigments, which is selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0040] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.

[0041] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona ®< are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491(Iron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,

[0042] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona ®< are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

[0043] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ®< are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0044] Within the scope of a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention can also contain one or more color-providing compounds (a2) from the group of organic pigments. The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0045] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0046] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0047] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.

[0048] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.

[0049] Due to their excellent light and temperature stability, the use of the aforementioned pigments in agent (a) is very particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably of 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably of 10 to 40 µm, in particular of 14 to 30 µm. The average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0050] The coloring compounds (a2) from the group of pigments represent the second essential component of the agent according to the invention and are preferably used in the agent in certain quantity ranges.

[0051] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.

[0052] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%. Ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3)

[0053] As a third essential ingredient (a3), the agents according to the invention contain at least one addition product of ethylene oxide with esters formed from C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols.

[0054] The addition products of ethylene oxide to the esters formed from C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a3) ​​can also be referred to as ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3).

[0055] The ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​are based on C 12 -C 24 fatty acids. These C 12 -C 24 fatty acids according to the invention are linear or branched, saturated or monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acids, which may also carry one or more hydroxyl groups. The C 12 -C 24 fatty acids according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Furthermore, the C 12 -C 24 fatty acids carry at least one carboxylic acid group. This carboxylic acid group either forms an ester with the aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols or forms an adduct with ethylene oxide, which adduct then reacts further with an aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohol.

[0056] To form the ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​according to the invention, one or more fatty acids can be used, for example, which are selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid], nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid] and / or ricinoleic acid ((9 Z ,12 R )-12-Hydroxy-9-octadecenoic acid.

[0057] The ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​are addition products of ethylene oxide with the esters of the previously described C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols. A characteristic of the C 1 -C 12 alcohols is that they contain 1 to 12 carbon atoms. The alcohols are aliphatic and can be linear or branched, saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated. The corresponding C 1 -C 12 alcohols can be mono- or polyhydric alcohols, i.e., the alcohols can contain one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0058] Monohydric C 1 -C 12 alcohols contain a hydroxyl group. Suitable examples include methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, n-pentanol, n-hexanol, n-octanol, n-decanol, and n-dodecanol.

[0059] Dihydric C 1 -C 12 alcohols have two hydroxyl groups. Suitable examples include 1,2-ethanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, and 1,8-octanediol.

[0060] If dihydric C 1 -C 12 alcohols are used to form the esters, one or both hydroxy groups can form an ester group with the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid(s).

[0061] One or more moles of ethylene oxide can also be added to the free hydroxy group.

[0062] Trihydric C 1 -C 12 alcohols have three hydroxyl groups. Glycerin is a suitable example.

[0063] If trivalent C 1 -C 12 alcohols are used to form the esters, one, both or all three hydroxy groups can form an ester group with the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid(s).

[0064] One or more moles of ethylene oxide can also be added to the free hydroxy group(s).

[0065] A corresponding addition product of ethylene oxide to the esters of C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a3) ​​is formed when the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid itself or the ester already formed from it is reacted with ethylene oxide (alternatively 1,2-epoxyethane, CAS number 75-21-8).

[0066] If the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid itself is converted with ethylene oxide, an adduct can initially form starting from the carboxylic acid group of the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid and the ethylene oxide, so that a *-C(O)-O-CH 2 -CH 2 -O-* group is formed. This group is also an ester. If one mole of ethylene oxide is reacted per mole of fatty acid, on average a simple adduct with one *-CH 2 -CH 2 -O-* unit is formed. Depending on the molar excess in which ethylene oxide is used, however, multiple adducts can also form, with several *-CH 2 -CH 2 -O-* units being present per mole of C 12 -C 24 fatty acid.

[0067] To form the ester (a3), this adduct can then be further reacted with at least one C 1 -C 12 alcohol.

[0068] The positions marked with an asterisk represent the bond to the remaining part of the fatty acid and the bond to the remaining part of the alcohol.

[0069] Formally, this type of addition products of ethylene oxide to the esters of C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a3) ​​is thus represented in such a way that one or more units -O-CH 2 -CH 2 - are located between the carbonyl group of the fatty acid and the oxygen atom of the alcohol.

[0070] Another type of addition product of ethylene oxide to the esters of C 12 -C 24 fatty acids and aliphatic C 1 -C 12 alcohols (a3) ​​occurs when an ester is reacted with ethylene oxide, this ester being obtained by esterification of a C 12 -C 14 fatty acid having at least one hydroxyl group with a C 1 -C 12 alcohol. For example, ricinoleic acid ((9Z,12R)-12-hydroxy-9-octadecenoic acid) can first be esterified with methanol, ethanol, or glycerol. During the formation of these adducts, the ethylene oxide then adds to the hydroxyl group of the ricinoleic acid and / or to the still free hydroxyl groups of the glycerol.

[0071] If one mole of ethylene oxide is converted per mole of fatty acid, for example, one unit of *-CH2-CH2-O-* can be added to the hydroxy group of castor oil acid. Depending on the molar excess of ethylene oxide used, multiple adducts can also form, with multiple units of *-CH2-CH2-O-* being added to each hydroxy group of the fatty acid, and / or with multiple units of *-CH2-CH2-O-* being added to each free hydroxy group of the glycerol.

[0072] To achieve the object of the invention, the use of very specific C 1 -C 12 alcohols to form the ethoxylated fatty acid ester (a3) ​​has proven particularly suitable. Particularly good effects have been observed when at least one addition product of ethylene oxide with an ester obtained by esterification of one, two, or three C 12 -C 24 fatty acids with glycerol is present.

[0073] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a3) ​​at least one addition product of ethylene oxide with an ester obtained by esterification of one, two or three C 12 -C 24 fatty acids with glycerol.

[0074] A particularly suitable group of substances of the ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​are the compounds of the general formula (EFA-I).

[0075] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a3) ​​at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (EFA-I) where R1, R2, R3 independently of one another represent a group -(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) v -H, or a group of the general formula (EFA-II), where v stands for an integer from 0 to 100, n stands for an integer from 0 to 100, m stands for an integer from 0 to 3, p stands for an integer from 1 to 8, q stands for the number 0 or 1, r stands for an integer from 1 to 100, and s stands for an integer from 1 to 8, provided that at least one of the radicals R1, R2, R3 represents a group of the general formula (EFA-II), and that at least one of the index numbers for v, n and / or q represents a number other than 0.

[0076] The compounds of formula (EFA-I) are based on the C 1 -C 12 alcohol glycerol, which carries the residues R1, R2 and R3.

[0077] The residues R1, R2, and R3 can be chosen independently of each other. The substituents in the residues R1, R2, and R3 can also be chosen independently of each other.

[0078] R1, R2, R3 independently represent a group -(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) v -H, or a group of the general formula (EFA-II).

[0079] The index number v can represent an integer from 0 to 100.

[0080] The proviso is that at least one of the radicals R1, R2, R3 represents a group of the general formula (EFA-II).

[0081] Since at least one of the residues R1, R2, R3 represents a group of the general formula (EFA-II), it is ensured that the compound of the formula (EFA-I) is in the form of an ester of glycerol and a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid.

[0082] Furthermore, there is the requirement that at least one of the index numbers for v, n and / or q represents a number other than 0.

[0083] If only the residue R1 represents a compound of the formula (EFA-II), then the other two residues R2 and R3 independently each represent a group -(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) v -H.

[0084] In each of the two radicals R2 and R3, the index number v can be chosen independently of the other radical. The provision that at least one index number v, n, and / or q represents a number other than 0 ensures that the compound of formula (EFA-I) is in the form of an ethoxylated fatty acid ester.

[0085] If two residues from R1, R2, and R3 represent a compound of formula (EFA-II), then the remaining residue represents a group -(CH2-CH2-O)v-H. In each of the formulas (EFA-II), the index numbers can be chosen independently of the index numbers of the other formula (EFA-II). The remaining residue from R1, R2, and R3 represents the group -(CH2-CH2-O)v-H.

[0086] The provision that at least one index number v, n and / or q represents a number other than 0 ensures that the compound of formula (EFA-I) is in the form of an ethoxylated fatty acid ester.

[0087] If all three radicals R1, R2, and R3 represent a compound of the formula (EFA-II), then of course none of these radicals can represent a group -(CH2-CH2-O)v-H. In each of the formulas (EFA-II), the index numbers can be chosen independently of the index numbers of the other formula (EFA-II). In this case, there is no index number v. In this case too, the proviso applies that at least one index number v, n and / or q represents a number other than 0. However, since the index number v does not exist in this embodiment, this means that at least one of the existing index numbers n and / or q must represent a number other than 0.

[0088] By specifying that at least one of the index numbers v, n and / or q represents a number other than 0, it is ensured that the compound of formula (EFA-I) contains at least one adduct with ethylene oxide, so that at least one *-CH2-CH2-O-* group is present in the molecule.

[0089] The index numbers n, m, o, p, q, r and s can be chosen in each structural unit of the formula (EFA-II) independently of the other structural units.

[0090] The index number n represents an integer from 0 to 100.

[0091] The index number r represents an integer from 1 to 100.

[0092] The numbers n and r indicate the number of ethylene oxide units in each structural unit of the formula (EFA-II).

[0093] The index number m stands for an integer from 1 to 8.

[0094] The index number o stands for an integer from 0 to 3.

[0095] The index number p stands for an integer from 1 to 8.

[0096] The index number q stands for the number 0 or 1.

[0097] The index number s represents an integer from 1 to 8.

[0098] The index numbers m, o, p, q and s define the length of the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid, whereby the requirement must also be fulfilled that all index numbers are chosen so that the structural unit of the formula (EFA-II) is derived from a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid.

[0099] Colourations with particularly high colour intensity were obtained when an agent according to the invention was applied to the keratin material, which contained at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester (a3) ​​of the general formula (EFA-I), where R1, R2, R3 independently represent a group of the general formula (EFA-II), where n stands for the number 0, m stands for an integer from 1 to 8, o stands for the number 0 or 1, preferably the number 0, p stands for an integer from 1 to 8, q stands for the number 1, r stands for an integer from 1 to 100, and s stands for an integer from 1 to 8.

[0100] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a3) ​​at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (EFA-I) where R1, R2, R3 independently represent a group of the general formula (EFA-II), where n stands for the number 0, m stands for an integer from 1 to 8, o stands for the number 0 or 1, preferably the number 0, p stands for an integer from 1 to 8, q stands for the number 1, r stands for an integer from 1 to 100, and s stands for an integer from 1 to 8.

[0101] The index numbers m, o, p, q and s again define the length of the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid, whereby the proviso is that all index numbers are chosen so that the structural unit of the formula (EFA-II) is derived from a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid.

[0102] If o stands for the number 0, then the sum of m, p, q and s is an integer from 10 to 22.

[0103] If o represents the number 1, then the sum of m, p, q and s is an integer from 8 to 20.

[0104] The ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​have proven to be particularly suitable for achieving the object according to the invention which are selected from the group consisting of PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-70 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-90 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-5 Castor Oil, PEG-10 Castor Oil, PEG-20 Castor Oil, PEG-30 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-50 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Castor Oil, PEG-70 Castor Oil, PEG-70 Castor Oil, PEG-80 Castor Oil, PEG-90 Castor Oil and PEG-100 Castor Oil.

[0105] Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a3) ​​at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester which is selected from the group consisting of PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-70 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-90 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-5 Castor Oil, PEG-10 Castor Oil, PEG-20 Castor Oil, PEG-30 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-50 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Castor Oil, PEG-70 Castor Oil, PEG-70 Castor Oil, PEG-80 Castor Oil, PEG-90 Castor Oil and PEG-100 Castor Oil.

[0106] PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (a3) ​​is most preferred.

[0107] PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil has the CAS number 61788-85-0 and can also be referred to as castor oil, hydrogenated, ethoxylated (60 EO). It can be purchased commercially under the trade name Eumulgin CO 60, for example, from BASF.

[0108] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a3) ​​at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester of the general formula (EFA-I) where R1, R2, R3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a group - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) v -H, or a group of the general formula (EFA-II), where v stands for an integer from 0 to 100, n stands for an integer from 0 to 100, preferably for an integer from 1 to 10, m stands for an integer from 1 to 8, o stands for the number 0, p stands for an integer from 1 to 8, q stands for the number 0, s stands for an integer from 1 to 8, provided that at least one of the radicals R1, R2, R3 represents a group of the general formula (II), and that at least one of the index numbers for v and / or n represents a number other than 0.

[0109] If only the residue R1 represents a compound of the formula (EFA-II), then the other two residues R2 and R3 independently each represent a group -(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) v -H.

[0110] In each of the two residues R2 and R3, the index number v can be chosen independently of the other residue. Since the index number q stands for 0, no grouping exists that carries the index number r. The requirement that at least one index number v and / or n stands for a number other than 0 ensures that the compound of formula (EFA-I) is in the form of an ethoxylated fatty acid ester.

[0111] If two residues from R1, R2, and R3 represent a compound of formula (EFA-II), then the remaining residue represents a group -(CH2-CH2-O)v-H. In each of the formulas (EFA-II), the index numbers can be chosen independently of the index numbers of the other formula (EFA-II). The remaining residue from R1, R2, and R3 represents the group -(CH2-CH2-O)v-H.

[0112] Since the index number q stands for 0, there is no grouping that carries the index number r. The requirement that at least one index number v and / or n stands for a number other than 0 ensures that the compound of formula (EFA-I) is in the form of an ethoxylated fatty acid ester.

[0113] If all three radicals R1, R2, and R3 represent a compound of the formula (EFA-II), then of course none of these radicals can represent a grouping -(CH2-CH2-O)v-H. In each of the formulas (EFA-II), the index numbers can be chosen independently of the index numbers of the other formula (EFA-II). In this case, there is no index number v. Since the index number q stands for 0, there is also no grouping which bears the index number r. In this case, the proviso also applies that at least one index number v and / or n stands for a number other than 0. However, since the index number v does not exist in this embodiment, this means that at least one of the existing index numbers n must stand for a number other than 0.

[0114] The index number v represents an integer from 0 to 100.

[0115] In this embodiment, n represents an integer from 0 to 100, preferably n represents an integer from 0 to 10. The index number q represents the number 0.

[0116] The number of *-CH2-CH2-O-* units in each structural unit (EFA-II) is therefore determined by the respective index number n.

[0117] The index numbers o and q both stand for the number 0. Thus, the length of the C 12 -C 24 fatty acid is defined by the index numbers m, p and s, whereby the prerequisite applies here again that all index numbers are chosen so that the structural unit of the formula (EFA-II) is derived from a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid.

[0118] The sum of m, p and s is an integer from 10 to 22.

[0119] Furthermore, the ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​selected from the group consisting of PEG-7 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-7 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl monocaprylate, PEG-7 glyceryl monocaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-10 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-10 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-10 glyceryl monocaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl monocaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Monostearate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Monocaprylate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Monocaprate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dilaurate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dimyristate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dipalmitate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Distearate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dicaprylate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dicaprate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Dilaurate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Dimyristate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Dipalmitate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Distearate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Dicaprylate,PEG-10 glyceryl dicaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl dilaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl dimyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl dipalmitate, PEG-5 glyceryl distearate, PEG-5 glyceryl dicaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl dicaprate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-7 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-7 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-7 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-10 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-10 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-10 Glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-5 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-5 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and mixtures thereof.

[0120] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a3) ​​at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester selected from the group consisting of PEG-7 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-7 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl monocaprylate, PEG-7 glyceryl monocaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-10 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-10 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-10 glyceryl monocaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl monocaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Monostearate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Monocaprylate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Monocaprate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dilaurate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dimyristate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dipalmitate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Distearate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dicaprylate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Dicaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl dilaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl dimyristate, PEG-10 glyceryl dipalmitate,PEG-10 glyceryl distearate, PEG-10 glyceryl dicaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl dicaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl dilaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl dimyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl dipalmitate, PEG-5 glyceryl distearate, PEG-5 glyceryl dicaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl dicaprate, PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-7 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-7 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-7 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-10 Glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-10 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-10 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-5 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-5 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and mixtures thereof.

[0121] PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, which has the CAS number 68553-02-6 and can be purchased commercially from BASF, for example, under the trade name Cetiol HE, is explicitly preferred.

[0122] The ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​are particularly preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the agent according to the invention.

[0123] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt.% and most preferably 4.0 to 8.0 wt.%.

[0124] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) ​​in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 10.0 wt.% and most preferably 4.0 to 8.0 wt.%. Fat components on average

[0125] As a further optional component, the agent according to the invention may additionally contain at least one fatty component.

[0126] It has been found that the use of at least one fatty component results in the product being in the form of an emulsion, which has the optimal viscosity and has also proven to be advantageous in terms of improving the color intensity.

[0127] The fatty components are hydrophobic substances that can form emulsions in the presence of water, forming micelle systems.

[0128] For the purposes of the invention, "fatty constituents" are understood to mean organic compounds with a solubility in water at room temperature (22 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%. The definition of fatty constituents explicitly includes only uncharged (i.e., non-ionic) compounds. Fatty constituents contain at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 carbon atoms. The molecular weight of the fatty constituents is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol, and particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. The fatty constituents are neither ethoxylated, nor polyoxyalkylated, nor polyglycerylated compounds.

[0129] The fat components (a4) contained in the agent are very particularly preferably selected from the group of C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.

[0130] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more fatty components from the group of C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.

[0131] Particularly preferred fatty constituents in this context are those from the group of C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglycerides, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid diglycerides, and / or hydrocarbons. For the purposes of the present invention, only non-ionic substances are explicitly considered fatty constituents. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not considered fatty constituents.

[0132] C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 24 C atoms.

[0133] Examples of preferred linear, saturated C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols are dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosane-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosane-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).

[0134] Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9 Z )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9 Z ,12 Z )-Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9 Z ,12 Z ,15 Z )-Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9 Z )-Eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidone alcohol ((5 Z ,8 Z ,11 Z ,14 Z )-Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E)-docosen-1-ol).

[0135] The preferred representatives for branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

[0136] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols from the group consisting of Dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol), Behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol), (9 Z )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9 E )-Octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9 Z ,12 Z )-Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9 Z ,12 Z ,15 Z )-Octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9 Z)-Eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidone alcohol ((5 Z ,8 Z ,11 Z ,14 Z )-Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13 Z )-Docos-13-en-1-ol), brassidyl alcohol ((13 E )-Docosen-1-ol), 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.

[0137] It has proven particularly preferable to use one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols in very specific quantity ranges.

[0138] It is very particularly preferred if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 3.0 to 30.0 wt.%, more preferably 4.0 to 20.0 wt.%, even more preferably 5.0 to 15.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 5.0 to 10.0 wt.%.

[0139] Furthermore, as a very suitable fatty component, the product can also contain at least one C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglyceride, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglyceride, and / or C 12 -C 24 fatty acid diglyceride. For the purposes of the present invention, a C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglyceride is understood to be the triester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acid. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids within a triglyceride molecule can participate in the ester formation.

[0140] According to the invention, fatty acids are understood to mean saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C 12 -C 24 carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. In an unsaturated fatty acid, its CC double bond(s) can have the cis or trans configuration.

[0141] The fatty acid triglycerides are particularly suitable in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0142] The fatty acid triglycerides can also be of natural origin. The fatty acid triglycerides found in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, moringa oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, and / or optionally hydrogenated castor oil, or mixtures thereof, are particularly suitable for use in the product according to the invention.

[0143] A C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglyceride is the monoester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the middle hydroxy group of the glycerol or the terminal hydroxy group of the glycerol can be esterified with the fatty acid.

[0144] The C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglycerides are particularly suitable in which a hydroxy group of the glycerol is esterified with a fatty acid, the fatty acids being selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0145] A C 12 -C 24 fatty acid diglyceride is the diester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with two equivalents of fatty acid. In this case, either the middle and one terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxyl groups of the glycerol can be esterified with one fatty acid each. The glycerol can be esterified with either two structurally identical or two different fatty acids.

[0146] The fatty acid diglycerides are particularly suitable in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol with a fatty acid selected from dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0147] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained at least one C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglyceride, which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), tetracosanoic acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z, 12Z)-Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, elaeostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0148] In a further embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one C 12 -C 24 fatty acid monoglyceride which is selected from the monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid.

[0149] It has proven preferable to use one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid di- and / or C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides in very specific quantity ranges in the composition.

[0150] With regard to the solution of the problem according to the invention, it has proven advantageous if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more C 12 -C 24 fatty acid mono-, C 12 -C 24 fatty acid di- and / or C 12 -C 24 fatty acid triglycerides in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 0.8 to 5.0 wt.%.

[0151] Furthermore, as a particularly preferred fatty component, the agent may also contain at least one hydrocarbon.

[0152] Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms and containing 8 to 80 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred in this context are aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils (e.g., paraffinium liquidum or paraffinum perliquidum), isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (paraffinum solidum), petrolatum, and polydecenes.

[0153] Liquid paraffin oils (Paraffinum Liquidum and Paraffinium Perliquidum) have proven particularly suitable in this context. The hydrocarbon used is particularly preferred: Paraffinum Liquidum, also known as white oil. Paraffinum Liquidum is a mixture of purified, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbons, consisting primarily of hydrocarbon chains with a carbon chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.

[0154] Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained at least one hydrocarbon selected from the group of mineral oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, semi-solid paraffin oils, paraffin waxes, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), petroleum jelly and polydecene.

[0155] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one fatty component from the group of hydrocarbons.

[0156] With regard to the solution of the problem according to the invention, it has proven to be very particularly preferred if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contained one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.7 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.9 to 5.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%.

[0157] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more hydrocarbons in a total amount of 0.5 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.7 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.9 to 5.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%.

[0158] The hydrocarbon(s) can be used as the sole fatty constituent(s) (a4) in the compositions. However, it is also according to the invention to incorporate at least one hydrocarbon in combination with at least one other constituent into the compositions. Average water content

[0159] The agent described above is a ready-to-use agent that can be applied to the keratinous material. This ready-to-use agent preferably has a high water content. It has been found that agents that contain—based on the total weight of the agent—50.0 to 98.0 wt.%, preferably 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably 70.0 to 90.0 wt.%, and most preferably 75.0 to 90.0 wt.% water are particularly suitable.

[0160] In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - 50.0 to 98.0 wt.%, preferably 60.0 to 90.0 wt.%, more preferably 70.0 to 90.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 75.0 to 90.0 wt.% water. other optional ingredients in the product

[0161] In addition to the components (a1) to (a3) ​​already described which are essential to the invention, the agent may also contain further optional ingredients.

[0162] For example, the agent may contain a film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, explicitly most preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

[0163] Further suitable film-forming polymers can be selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

[0164] In particular, film-forming polymers selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven to be particularly suitable.

[0165] Other particularly suitable film-forming polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinylamides, the esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid with at least one C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, an aryl group or a C 2 -C 10 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0166] Further film-forming polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate); isopentyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate); isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl (meth)acrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate and / or mixtures thereof.

[0167] Further film-forming polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl-(meth)acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide; N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamide.

[0168] Other suitable anionic copolymers include, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration "Acrylates Copolymers." A suitable commercial product is, for example, Aculyn®< 33 from Rohm & Haas. Also preferred are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or their C 1 -C 6 alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, Steareth-20 or Ceteth-20.

[0169] Examples of polymers available on the market are Aculyn ®< 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn ®< 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001 ®< (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001 ®< (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus ®< (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol ®< 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000 ®< (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or Soltex OPT distributed by Rohme and Haas (Acrylates / C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer).

[0170] Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkylpyrrole, vinyloxazole, vinylthiazole, vinylpyrimidine, and vinylimidazole.

[0171] Also suitable are the copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, as sold commercially, for example, under the trade names AMPHOMER ®< or LOVOCRYL ®< 47 by NATIONAL STARCH, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamide sold under the trade names DERMACRYL ®< LT and DERMACRYL ®< 79 by NATIONAL STARCH.

[0172] Suitable polymers based on olefins include, for example, the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.

[0173] In another embodiment, block copolymers comprising at least one block of styrene or styrene derivatives can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers. These block copolymers can be copolymers containing one or more additional blocks in addition to a styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, or styrene / butadiene. Corresponding polymers are marketed commercially by BASF under the trade name "Luvitol HSB."

[0174] Although in principle both anionic and cationic and / or non-ionic polymers can be used in the agent according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly preferred not to use further ionic compounds or to use them only in small amounts. In other words, a particularly strong improvement in color intensity was achieved when the agent was predominantly non-ionic and therefore contained either no cationic and anionic polymers at all or only in very small amounts. For this reason, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the total content of all anionic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the total content of all cationic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. The proportion of cationic oranionic polymer is based on the total weight of the agent.

[0175] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the agent - the total content of all anionic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%, and the total content of all cationic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%.

[0176] In addition to the non-ionic surfactants described above, the agents can in principle also contain one or more charged surfactants. The term surfactant refers to surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group; amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge; cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue; and non-ionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.

[0177] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-)<- or -SO3(-)<- group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

[0178] Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO3H- group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

[0179] Examples of ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 - C 18 acylsarcosine.

[0180] Furthermore, the agents can also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e. surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants are usually composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, with the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge(s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds which may carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms as hydrophobic residues, quaternary phosphonium salts substituted with one or more alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms or tertiary sulfonium salts.

[0181] Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure. In addition to the functional unit carrying the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case with esterquats, for example. The cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45 wt.%, preferably 1 to 30 wt.%, and most preferably 1 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent.

[0182] Furthermore, the agents according to the invention can also contain at least one anionic surfactant. Anionic surfactants are surface-active agents with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding countercation). Examples of anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.

[0183] Although in principle both anionic and cationic and / or non-ionic surfactants can be used in the agent according to the invention, it has proven to be particularly preferred not to use other ionic compounds or to use them only in small amounts. In other words, a particularly strong improvement in color intensity was achieved when the agent was predominantly non-ionic and therefore contained either no cationic and anionic surfactants at all or only in very small amounts. For this reason, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the total content of all anionic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the total content of all cationic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. The proportion of cationic oranionic surfactant is based on the total weight of the agent.

[0184] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the agent - the total content of all anionic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%, and the total content of all cationic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%.

[0185] The products may also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as solvents, structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the product; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; light protectants and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts as well as bisabolol;Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.;

[0186] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the agent. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent. pH value of the agents

[0187] The pH of the agent according to the invention is preferably adjusted to a neutral to alkaline pH. The agent most preferably has an alkaline pH in the range from 7.0 to 11.5, preferably from 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.5. Under basic conditions, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) can be dissolved or dispersed particularly well and without protonation.

[0188] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it has a pH value of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably of 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably of 8.5 to 10.5.

[0189] To adjust the desired pH, agent (a) and / or (b) may contain at least one alkalizing agent. The pH values ​​within the meaning of the present invention are pH values ​​measured at a temperature of 22°C.

[0190] As alkalizing agents, the agents can contain, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids.

[0191] The alkanolamines usable in the agent according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 alkyl parent structure carrying at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.

[0192] Particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol. A particularly preferred embodiment is therefore characterized in that the agent according to the invention contains an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol as an alkalizing agent.

[0193] An amino acid within the meaning of the invention is an organic compound that contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in its structure. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-(alpha)-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, with α-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.

[0194] According to the invention, basic amino acids are understood to be amino acids which have an isoelectric point pl of greater than 7.0.

[0195] Basic α-aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. Within the scope of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or as mixtures thereof, particularly as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L-configuration.

[0196] The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and / or histidine.

[0197] In addition, the agent may contain other alkalizing agents, particularly inorganic alkalizing agents. Inorganic alkalizing agents usable according to the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate.

[0198] Very particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.

[0199] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the coloring agent (a) comprises at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, Contains sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Process for coloring keratin material

[0200] The agents described above can be used excellently in processes for coloring keratin material, especially human hair.

[0201] A second object of the present invention is therefore a process for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a colorant to the keratinic material, wherein the colorant is an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, (2) allowing the colorant to act on the keratinic material, and (3) rinsing the colorant with water.

[0202] In step (1) of the method according to the invention, the agent of the first subject matter of the invention is applied to the keratinic material, which is most preferably human hair.

[0203] In step (2) of the method according to the invention, the agent is then allowed to act on the keratin material after its application. Various exposure times, for example, from 30 seconds to 60 minutes, are conceivable.

[0204] A major advantage of the coloring system according to the invention, however, is that an intense color result can be achieved even in very short periods of time after short exposure times. For this reason, it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratin material for only a comparatively short period of time, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes, after application.

[0205] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by (2) the coloring agent acting on the keratinic material for a period of time from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.

[0206] After the application mixture has acted on the keratin material, it is finally rinsed out with water in step (3) of the process.

[0207] In one embodiment, the application mixture can be washed out with water alone, i.e., without the aid of a post-treatment agent or shampoo. The use of a post-treatment agent or conditioner in step (6) is also conceivable in principle.

[0208] However, in order to achieve the object of the invention and to increase the comfort of use, it has been found to be particularly preferred to rinse out the agent in step (3) exclusively with water without the aid of any further after-treatment agent, shampoo or conditioner.

[0209] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized by (3) rinsing the colorant exclusively with water.

[0210] Regarding the further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutantis what has been said about the agent according to the invention. Examples 1. Formulations

[0211] The following formulations were prepared (all data in wt.% unless otherwise stated): Dyes (V1) (E1) (E2) Cetyl alcohol 6,0 6,0 6,0 C 12 -C 18 fatty alcohols (Lorol techn.) 6,0 6,0 6,0 Ceteareth-30 (cetearyl alcohol, ethoxylated 30 EO) 6,0 --- --- PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate --- 6,0 --- PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil --- --- 6,0 Lavanya Zuni (organic pigment, Neelikon Red, 111P0200, CI 12490) 1,0 1,0 1,0 Dow Corning 2-8566 (Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" 2,5 2,5 2,5 Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 0,20 0,20 0,20 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 2. Application

[0212] After preparation, the respective products (V1, E1, and E2) were applied to hair strands (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white, liquor ratio: 1 g of product (E1) per g of hair strand). The product was left on for three minutes. Following this, the hair strands were thoroughly rinsed with water (1 minute), dried, and then colorimetrically measured using a Datacolor Spectraflash 450 colorimeter.

[0213] The dE value used to assess the color intensity is derived from the L*a*b* color measurement values ​​measured on the respective strand section as follows: dE = L i − L 0 2 + a i − a 0 2 + b i − b 0 1 / 2 L 0 , a 0 and b 0 = measured values ​​of the comparison dyeing (V1) L i , ai and bi = measured values ​​of the dyeing according to the invention (E)

[0214] The chroma of a color is calculated using the formula C = a 2 + b 2 The larger the C-value, the higher the chroma of a coloration.

[0215] The L-value indicates the brightness of a color. The lower the L-value, the darker and more intense the color. Medium L a b Chroma C dE for comparison Comparison (V1) 40,55 37,65 8,22 38,54 Invention (E1) 28,96 47,52 18,02 50,82 18,10 Invention (E2) 29,18 45,76 15,19 48,21 15,61

[0216] Darker, more intense colorations (lower L values) and higher chroma (higher C value) were measured with the agents according to the invention.

Claims

1. An agent for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II) and (a2) at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, and (a3) at least one addition product of ethylene oxide to esters formed from C12-C24 fatty acids and aliphatic C1-C12 alcohols.

2. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount from 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%.

3. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments, preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from mica-based colored pigments which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.

4. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments, preferably selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100 or CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000 or CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570 or CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370 or CI 71105, and red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

5. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent (a), one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.

6. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one addition product of ethylene oxide to an ester, which is obtained by esterification of one, two or three C12-C24 fatty acids with glycerin.

7. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester of general formula (EFA-I) wherein R1, R2, R3 independently represent a -(CH2-CH2-O)v-H group, or a group of general formula (EFA-II), wherein v represents an integer from 0 to 100, n represents an integer from 0 to 100, m represents an integer from 1 to 8, o represents an integer from 0 to 3, p represents an integer from 1 to 8, q represents the number 0 or 1, r represents an integer from 1 to 100, and s represents an integer from 1 to 8, with the proviso that - at least one of the functional groups R1, R2, R3 represents a group of general formula (EFA-II), and that - at least one of the index numbers for v, n and / or q represents a number other than 0.

8. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester of general formula (EFA-I) wherein R1, R2, R3 independently represent a group of general formula (EFA-II), wherein n represents the number 0, m represents an integer from 1 to 8, o represents the number 0 or 1, preferably the number 0, p represents an integer from 1 to 8, q represents the number 1, r represents an integer from 1 to 100, and s represents an integer from 1 to 8.

9. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester selected from the group of PEG-5 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-10 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-70 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-90 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-5 castor oil, PEG-10 castor oil, PEG-20 castor oil, PEG-30 castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-50 castor oil, PEG-60 castor oil, PEG-70 castor oil, PEG-70 castor oil, PEG-80 castor oil, PEG-90 castor oil and PEG-100 castor oil.

10. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester of general formula (EFA-I), wherein R1, R2, R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2-CH2-O)V-H group, or a group of general formula (EFA-II), wherein v represents an integer from 0 to 100, n represents an integer from 0 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 10, m represents an integer from 1 to 8, o represents the number 0, p represents an integer from 1 to 8, q represents the number 0, s represents an integer from 1 to 8, with the proviso that - at least one of the functional groups R1, R2, R3 represents a group of general formula (II), and that - at least one of the index numbers for v and / or n represents a number other than 0.

11. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it (a3) contains at least one ethoxylated fatty acid ester selected from the group of PEG-7 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-7 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl monocaprylate, PEG-7 glyceryl monocaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-10 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-10 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-10 glyceryl monocaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl monocaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl monolaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl monomyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl monopalmitate, PEG-5 glyceryl monostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl monocaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl monocaprate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl dilaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl dimyristate, PEG-7 glyceryl dipalmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl distearate, PEG-7 glyceryl dicaprylate, PEG-7 glyceryl dicaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl dilaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl dimyristate, PEG-10 glyceryl dipalmitate, PEG-10 glyceryl distearate, PEG-10 glyceryl dicaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl dicaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl dilaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl dimyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl dipalmitate, PEG-5 glyceryl distearate, PEG-5 glyceryl dicaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl dicaprate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-7 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-7 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-7 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-7 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-10 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-10 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-10 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-10 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-10 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-10 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-5 glyceryl trilaurate, PEG-5 glyceryl trimyristate, PEG-5 glyceryl tripalmitate, PEG-5 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-5 glyceryl tricaprylate, PEG-5 glyceryl tricaprate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and mixtures thereof.

12. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters (a3) in a total amount from 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, more preferably from 1.0 to 10.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 4.0 to 8.0 wt.%.

13. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that, based on the total weight of the agent, - the total content of all anionic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%, and - the total content of all cationic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%.

14. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that, based on the total weight of the agent, - the total content of all anionic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%, and - the total content of all cationic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1 wt.%.

15. The agent according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it contains water and has a pH in the range of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably of 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably of 8.5 to 10.5.

16. A method for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a dyeing agent according to one of claims 1 to 15 to the keratinous material, (2) allowing the dyeing agent to act on the keratinous material, and (3) rinsing out the dyeing agent using water.

17. The method according to claim 16, characterized by (2) allowing the dyeing agent (a) to act on the keratinous material for a period of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably 1 to 5 minutes.