COSMETIC PRODUCT FOR THE LIPS IN THE FORM OF A WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION AND MAKEUP PROCESS

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing a particular mixture of oils, and relates more particularly to the field of lip makeup.

[0002] It also relates to a cosmetic lip makeup process, including the topical application of this composition to the lips. Previous Art

[0003] Lip makeup products are cosmetic products for which shine properties are sought, unlike other cosmetic products, such as skin care products, for which a film on the skin with the most discreet matte finish is desired.

[0004] The level of hold of a makeup product over time must also be much higher on the lips than a cosmetic product applied to other areas of the body, as the product is subject to more friction.

[0005] Finally, the comfort provided by the product must also be very high, as the lips are much more sensitive than other parts of the body.

[0006] Therefore, in order to be offered for sale, a lip makeup product must meet a complex set of specifications including multiple criteria such as: the stability of the product over time, the comfort of the product when applied to the lips and over time once it has been applied, the shine of the film deposited on the lips, and the hold of the film on the lips over time.

[0007] These criteria are difficult to satisfy simultaneously: for example, increasing the hold of makeup over time or increasing the shine of the film deposited on the lips very frequently leads to a decrease in the comfort of the product on the lips which can result in dryness of the lips, sticky sensations, or a heaviness of the deposit on the lips.

[0008] The vast majority of lip makeup products are formulated with oils and do not contain water. US patent 6,444,212, US application 2006 / 19848, and EP application 1,457,201 illustrate this: the textures are solid and generally provide long-lasting lipsticks.

[0009] Lipsticks or glosses containing water can be in the form of solid or liquid emulsions containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase. Either the aqueous phase is dispersed in an oily phase (water-in-oil emulsion), or the oily phase is dispersed in the aqueous phase (oil-in-water emulsion).

[0010] Fluid lipstick formulations in water-in-oil emulsion have been proposed, notably in application FR 3003465. The hold is achieved thanks to a carbosiloxane dendrimer vinyl polymer solubilized in volatile and non-volatile silicone oils.

[0011] The emulsion of the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil liquid emulsion and is notable for its high fluidity compared to prior art emulsions of this type. The inventors unexpectedly found a way to formulate a time-stable emulsion containing a large amount of oil and water using only small amounts of stabilizing agents, which are generally necessary to ensure the long-term stability of an emulsion. The emulsion of the invention also has the advantage of containing only small amounts of binding agents, particularly phenyl silicone compounds that can cause a sticky feeling. The inventors found that combining ethylcellulose, a modified hectorite with an organic compound, and polyglycerol esters achieves this goal.It is indeed very difficult to reconcile the stability, fluidity and texture of an emulsion to avoid it generating stickiness or discomfort on the lips.

[0012] Providing a highly fluid water-in-oil emulsion for lip makeup offers numerous advantages: it creates films on the lips that provide a refreshing sensation upon application due to the presence of water, as well as a feeling of lightness primarily due to their thinness. Despite its fluidity, the emulsion of the invention achieves excellent hydration and shine properties. This is all the more remarkable given the thinness of the film deposited on the lips.

[0013] One of the objectives of the invention is therefore to provide a product for application to the lips that delivers highly moisturizing lip makeup both upon application and over time, without causing discomfort. Another objective is to achieve a very thin application of the product on the lips, leaving a supple, smooth, light, soft, non-greasy, and non-sticky sensation. General description of the invention

[0014] In the following text, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the emulsion of the invention, unless explicitly stated otherwise.

[0015] At least one of the objectives of the invention stated above is achieved by a water-in-oil emulsion, the dynamic viscosity of which at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is preferably between 1,500 and 10,000 mPa.s, comprising an aqueous phase, oils, one or more volatile solvents, and a coloring matter.

[0016] This emulsion meets the following characteristics The aqueous phase represents between 25 and 45% by weight and comprises water, at least one polyol and possibly at least one moisturizing active ingredient; the oils represent between 25 and 50% by weight and comprise at least one first oil chosen from the esters of a polyglycerol, at least one second oil chosen from the monoesters of fatty alcohols, and at least one third oil chosen from the C10-C26 fatty alcohols; the volatile solvent(s) chosen from silicone oils, a C1-C6 monoalcohol, and a hydrocarbon represent 10 to 20%, preferably 12 to 18% by weight.

[0017] The emulsion further contains 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 4% by weight, of a polymer soluble or solubilized in the third oil. The emulsion may also contain 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, of a gelling compound of one of the oils or the mixture of oils mentioned above. The term "gelling compound" or "oil gelling compound(s)" means a compound that increases the dynamic viscosity at 25°C and atmospheric pressure of the oil or mixture of oils to which it is added at a concentration of 0.4 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the oil or mixture of oils concerned. Detailed description of the invention

[0018] One aspect of the invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: 25 to 45% by weight of an aqueous phase comprising water and at least one polyol, 25 to 50% by weight of a mixture of oils, 10 to 20% by weight of at least one volatile solvent selected from silicone oils, a C1-C6 monoalcohol, and a hydrocarbon, 0.05 to 5% of a compound gelling at least one of said oils or gelling the mixture of said oil(s), a coloring matter, characterized in that the mixture of oils comprises at least one first oil selected from the esters of a polyglycerol, at least one second oil selected from the monoesters of fatty alcohols, and at least one third oil selected from fatty alcohols. from 0.5 to 10% by weight of a polymer solubilized in the third oil, the percentages being expressed relative to the weight of the emulsion.

[0019] Especially : Water may represent 30 to 40% by weight and the polyol 3 to 15% by weight; the first oil may be a mixture comprising at least two polyglycerol and C16-C20 fatty acid esters, preferably non-hydroxylated, and represent 1 to 15% by weight; the second oil may be a non-hydroxylated monoester comprising at least one, preferably two saturated C16-C20 alkyl chains, and represent 1 to 15% by weight; the third oil may be a saturated C10-C26 monoalcohol, and represent 10 to 30% by weight; the volatile solvent may comprise at least 80% by weight of a silicone solvent; and the gelling compound may be hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, and represent 0.1 to 1% by weight; coloring matter may be present from 0.1 to 5% by weight. the percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of the emulsion.

[0020] This emulsion has the advantage of being both very fluid and stable. Its dynamic viscosity at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is preferably between 1,500 and 10,000 mPa.s.

[0021] A person in the trade will be able to verify, based on techniques that are part of their general knowledge, that the aqueous phase is dispersed in another phase comprising the said oils.

[0022] The present application further describes a water-in-oil emulsion of the invention, the dynamic viscosity of which at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is preferably between 1,500 and 10,000 mPa.s, may comprise an aqueous phase, oils, one or more volatile solvents, and a coloring agent, and may be characterized in that: The aqueous phase represents between 25 and 45% by weight, the oils represent between 25 and 50% by weight and include at least one first oil chosen from the esters of a polyglycerol, the volatile solvent(s) represent 10 to 20% by weight, said emulsion further containing 1 to 4% by weight of ethylcellulose, and 0.05 to 5% by weight of a gelling compound of one of said oils or of the mixture of said oils, the percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of the emulsion.

[0023] An example of an emulsion of the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion that contains: 30 to 40% by weight of water, 1 to 15% by weight of a non-hydroxylated monoester comprising at least one, preferably two saturated C16-C20 alkyl chains, 10 to 30% of a saturated C10-C26 monoalcohol, 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer solubilized in said monoalcohol, 10 to 20% by weight of a mixture of volatile solvents comprising at least 80% by weight of a silicone solvent, 1 to 15% by weight of a mixture comprising at least two C16-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably non-hydroxylated, 0.1 to 1% by weight of a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, and 3 to 15% by weight of polyols, the percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of the emulsion.

[0024] In this application, the phrase "from...to..." is intended to include the lower and upper bounds of the range of values, while the phrase "between...and..." excludes the bounds of the range of values. Disclosure of a range of values ​​excluding its bounds is equivalent to disclosure of the equivalent range of values ​​including the bounds. vice versa.

[0025] An "oil," as defined in the present invention, is a compound that is insoluble at 25°C and atmospheric pressure in the aqueous phase of the emulsion, in the quantities at which the aqueous phase and the oil are used. A "liquid" compound is a molecule or mixture of molecules whose melting point, softening temperature, or glass transition point is less than or equal to 30°C, preferably less than or equal to 25°C, or even less than or equal to 20°C, the melting point corresponding to the maximum of the curve obtained by differential scanning calorimetry, or to the beginning of the melting point of the curve obtained by differential scanning calorimetry. A "solid" is understood to be a compound that is not a liquid.

[0026] The term "fatty acid" means a carboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22, and even more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid(s) are linear, saturated, and unsubstituted by a hydroxyl group.

[0027] In a particular embodiment, the emulsion contains at least 25% by weight of a mixture of oils, at least 25% by weight of water, 10 to 20% by weight of a silicone volatile solvent, 0.5 to 10%, preferably 2 to 4% by weight of an ethylcellulose, 0.05 to 5% by weight of a hectorite modified with an organic compound, said mixture of oils comprising isostearyl isostearate, at least one polyglycerol ester, and octyldodecanol.

[0028] The emulsion of the invention is preferably a lip makeup product, that is to say a product with special properties which is not suitable for other uses such as a skin care product (lotion, serum, cream), a skin makeup product (foundation) or an eyelash makeup product (mascara).

[0029] Finally, the last aspects of the invention relate to i) a method of lip makeup or care which consists of applying one of the emulsions described above to the lips, ii) a bottle containing one of the emulsions described above.

[0030] Each of the aspects mentioned above may include or implement one of the ingredients that will be described below.

[0031] The aqueous phase advantageously represents 25 to 45% by weight, for example 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the emulsion. The aqueous phase may contain water, a polyol, and / or a sodium or magnesium salt, particularly sodium chloride.

[0032] A polyol can be incorporated into the aqueous phase and must contain at least two hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms. Examples of polyols include propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, and glycerol.

[0033] The emulsion of the invention may comprise from 3% to 15% by weight of polyol(s), in particular from 5% to 10% by weight of polyol(s) relative to the weight of the emulsion.

[0034] The emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one first oil selected from polyglycerol esters. The polyglycerol ester is advantageously selected from non-oxyalkylated polyglycerol esters, for example, non-oxyalkylated esters of polyglycerol-2.

[0035] Polyglycerol ester can have both an emollient function and a function of stabilizing the aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase.

[0036] A polyglycerol ester can be selected from among the esters resulting from the esterification of a polyglycerol with a polyricinoleic acid, called polyglyceryl polyricinoleates. Examples include polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates, and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates (in their INCI names). According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate is selected. The emulsion of the invention may comprise from 1% to 3% by weight of a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (or polyglyceryl polyricinoleate) compound, in particular from 1.5% to 2% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.

[0037] The fatty acids are preferably chosen from saturated fatty acids not substituted by a hydroxyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms and possibly at least one methyl group. The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, behenic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0038] Another polyglycerol ester may be chosen from among the esters resulting from the esterification of a polyglycerol with a saturated fatty acid not substituted by a hydroxyl group, optionally comprising at least one methyl branch and possibly 16 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably isostearic acid. The polyglycerol esters contained in the emulsion are preferably chosen from among the non-oxyalkylated esters of 2-polyglycerol. The polyglycerol ester is thus, for example, 2-polyglyceryl triisostearate, 2-polyglyceryl isostearate, or 2-polyglyceryl diisostearate.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the first oil is a mixture comprising at least one first ester selected from the esters of a polyglycerol and an aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and at least one second ester selected from the polyglyceryl polyricinoleates. The polyglycerol and C16-C20 fatty acid ester is in particular selected from polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, polyglycerol-2-isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Thus, the first oil may be a mixture of polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate and a polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate.

[0041] The first oil preferably represents 1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion, more precisely 5 to 10% or 6 to 8% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.

[0042] The emulsion of the invention may contain at least one second oil selected from fatty acid monoesters, fatty acids being defined as above. For example, non-hydroxylated monoesters comprising at least one branched C16-C20 alkyl chain may be selected. These monoesters may be chosen from esters of a C16-C20 aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and a C16-C20 aliphatic monoalcohol, at least one of which must be a monoacid or monoalcohol comprising at least one methyl or ethyl branch.

[0043] Monoesters preferably include a C18 branched alkyl chain.

[0044] Isostearic acid esters are preferred. The second oil can, for example, be chosen from the compounds myristyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, stearyl isostearate, isocetyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, hydrogenated castor oil isotearate, and 2-ethyl-hexyl isostearate (in their INCI names).

[0045] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the second oil is isostearyl isostearate.

[0046] The weight of all the liquid esters contained in the emulsion of the invention is preferably greater than 30%, preferably greater than 35%, and preferably even greater than 40%, of the weight of all the oils in said emulsion. In a particular embodiment, more than 90% of the ester oils contained in the emulsion of the invention are C16-C20 fatty acid esters, preferably isostearic acid esters. The emulsion of the invention may comprise between 10 and 20%, preferably between 14 and 18% by weight, of oils possessing an ester functional group, relative to the weight of the emulsion. An additional ester oil may be an ester of 1,1,1-trimethylolpropane and a fatty acid, for example, trimethylolpropane triisostearate.

[0047] A third oil may be chosen from among the C10-C26 aliphatic fatty alcohols, preferably from among the linear or branched, saturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols, preferably even more so from C16-C20 such as 2-octyldodecanol.

[0048] The emulsion preferably comprises between 15 and 30%, preferably between 20 and 25%, of the third oil.

[0049] A quantity of polymer that imparts film-forming properties to a deposit of the emulsion on the lips can be incorporated into the emulsion of the invention. Preferably, the polymer is solid at 25°C and is solubilized in an oil such that it is solubilized in the oil upon introduction into the emulsion.

[0050] The polymer is soluble or solubilized in at least one of the oils described above or in the mixture of oils described above. The polymer is said to be soluble when it is solubilized at a mass concentration of between 5 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of said oil or mixture of oils. Before being introduced into the emulsion of the invention, the polymer may be selected from polymers soluble at 25°C in the third oil when its concentration in the third oil is between 10 and 30% by weight. The polymer is preferably hydrocarbon. Hydrocarbon is understood to mean a polymer devoid of silicon.

[0051] Such a polymer, before being introduced into an oil, can be solid at 25°C and can be chosen from ethylcelluloses, vegetable resins, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.

[0052] Plant resins, as defined in the invention, cover several different compounds: the substance secreted by certain plants and then harvested without further chemical transformation, called resinous exudate, for example a resinous exudate obtained in particular by tapping a tree trunk, a molecule extracted from a resinous exudate, or a mixture of these molecules, and the chemical reaction products of a resinous exudate or of a molecule it contains.

[0053] Plant resins, when harvested from plants without chemical processing, can be either liquid or solid after being dried by removing their water content. Plant resins are generally very viscous liquids that dry more or less rapidly when exposed to air.

[0054] An example of a resinous exudate derivative is a glycerol-rosin ester (also called glyceryl rosinate or monoester of glycerol and a mixture of long-chain fatty acids derived from rosin, or glyceryl monorosinate, CAS 65997-13-9, CAS 8050-31-5). Rosin (C15H20O6; CAS 85026-55-7) is an aromatic acid containing a glucopyranoside moiety that is extracted from rosin, which is obtained after the distillation and drying of an exudate collected from resinous trees such as pines.

[0055] One can also use a resin from the Shorea Robusta tree (INCI name Shorea Robusta Resin), also called Damar gum, which is a resinous exudate harvested from the tree of the genus Shorea and hope Robusta.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is ethylcellulose.

[0057] The degree of substitution of hydroxyl groups by anhydroglucose motif of ethylcellulose preferably ranges from 2.0 to 3.0 (which can correspond to a mass percentage of ethoxyl groups between 45.0 and 52.5% relative to the weight of the substituted polymer, depending on the grade used).

[0058] The average molar mass of ethylcellulose is preferably chosen so that the viscosity of a 5% wt solution in a mixture of 80 parts toluene and 20 parts ethanol at 25°C ranges from 1 to 400 mPa.s, preferably from 3 to 250 mPa.s, for example from 5 to 20 mPa.s.

[0059] In a particular embodiment of the invention, ethylcellulose is dissolved in an oil or in the mixture of oils of the emulsion of the invention, and may correspond to a grade sold under the trade name ETHOCEL ®< Standard 7 Premium, ETHOCEL ®< 100 or ETHOCEL ®< 200 (Dow Chemical Co.), or under the trade name AQUALON ®< NC (Ashland).

[0060] Examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers include VP / eicosene and VP / hexadecene.

[0061] The polymer content ranges, for example, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5%, or even 2 to 4% by weight of the emulsion. The inventors observed that at a concentration above 10%, an emulsion spread of one to several hundred microns thick is both thicker and stickier. At a concentration below 0.1%, the shine and hydrating properties of the emulsion applied to the lips are insufficient.

[0062] In a particular embodiment, a mixture of a polymer such as ethylcellulose, and a hectorite modified by an organic compound such as a tetra-alkylammonium salt, for example a hectorite as described below, is used.

[0063] One or more gelling compounds of one of the oils in the emulsion of the invention, or of the mixture of oils contained in said emulsion, may be incorporated into the emulsion of the invention. Preferably, 0.05 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 2%, for example, 0.5 to 1% by weight of gelling compound(s) is used.

[0064] Examples of gelling compounds that can be used in the context of the invention include modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; esters of dextrin and fatty acids such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin); organomodified clays, which are clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary amines and tertiary amines; and pyrogenated silicas treated on the surface with a silicone compound.

[0065] The emulsion of the invention may contain from 0.1 to 1% by weight of a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, preferably an ammonium substituted by at least two alkyl groups comprising 14 to 20 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may be stearyl. An example is the compound with the INCI name disteardimonium hectorite, in which the ammonium group comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0066] The emulsion of the invention advantageously contains a mixture of ethylcellulose and a modified hectorite with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, as described above.

[0067] The volatile solvent(s) which may be used in the emulsion are preferably made up of more than 65% by weight, preferably more than 75%, or even more than 90% by weight, of a silicone compound.

[0068] The volatile solvent may be selected from silicone oils such as dimethicones with viscosities of 0.5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile solvent is decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.

[0069] The volatile solvent may also be a C1-C6 monoalcohol such as ethanol, or a hydrocarbon such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), the undecane-tridecane mixture.

[0070] The volatile solvent(s) present in the emulsion of the invention may represent from 5 to 20%, for example from 10 to 20%, preferably from 12 to 18%, by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.

[0071] The emulsion of the invention preferably contains less than 5% by weight of volatile alcohols and / or volatile hydrocarbons, such as ethanol or isododecane, which can be drying for the lips and may reduce the comfort and hydration sought in the context of the invention.

[0072] The inventors have indeed observed that volatile solvents such as isododecane and ethanol can reduce the lip hydration provided by the emulsion, when used in certain proportions.

[0073] In a particular embodiment, the volatile solvent(s) contained in the emulsion consist of a cyclomethicone, preferably decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.

[0074] The emulsion of the invention may contain one or more molecules and / or one or more plant extracts having moisturizing properties, such as glycols, in particular glycerol or natural polyols and any other moisturizing active known to those skilled in the art.

[0075] The emulsion of the invention contains a coloring material which is chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and in the aqueous phase) and colorants (soluble in oils or in the aqueous phase).

[0076] Examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0077] Examples of organic pigments include D & C Red No. 19; D & C Red No. 9; D & C Red No. 21; D & C orange No. 4; D & C orange No. 5; D & C Red No. 27; D & C Red No. 13; D & C Red No. 7; D & C Red No. 6; D & C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red No. 36; D & C orange No. 10; D & C Yellow No. 6; D & C Red No. 30; D & C Red No. 3; carbon black and carmine-based lakes.

[0078] Pearlescent pigments can be chosen in particular from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxychloride; and colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0079] Among the colorants, we can mention caramel, Yellow 5, Acid Blue 9 / Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3 / Fast Green FCF 3, Orange 4, Red 4 / Food Red 1, Yellow 6, Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12, Red 40, cochineal carmine (CI 15850, CI 75470), Ext. Violet 2, Red 6-7, Ferrie Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines, Acid Yellow 3 / Yellow 10, Acid Blue 3, Yellow 10. Fat-soluble colorants include, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, and annatto.

[0080] The emulsion of the invention contains, for example, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, for example from 0.1 to 1% by weight of coloring materials, and from 0.2 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, in a particular embodiment.

[0081] In addition to the ingredients described above, the emulsion of the invention may include at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient, which may be selected from perfumes, phospholipids, electrolytes, sweeteners to mask the bitterness of certain compounds in the emulsion when applied to the lips, pH adjusters, and preservatives. A particular phospholipid is a non-hydrogenated lectin extracted from soybeans comprising 23% by weight of phosphatidylcholine and 97% by weight of phospholipids and glycolipids.

[0082] The moisturizing properties of the emulsion according to the invention can be measured by corneometry. The corneometer measures the change in skin capacitance over time. A probe consisting of two comb-shaped metallic (gold) electrodes is separated from the probe tip by a thin insulating layer. An electric field is created at the skin surface. The capacitance of the electrode / skin system depends on the dielectric constant of the skin in contact with the probe; therefore, the more hydrated the skin, the higher the dielectric constant. The moisturizing effect of the emulsion at a given time T can be expressed as the percentage increase between the capacitance measured at time T on an untreated area of ​​skin and the capacitance measured at time T on an area of ​​skin to which the emulsion of the invention has been applied.

[0083] The moisturizing power of an embodiment of the invention, measured by corneometry, in particular by the protocol described above, can be greater than 60%, preferably greater than 65%, 6 hours after its application.

[0084] The viscosity of the emulsion at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is preferably between 1,500 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferably less than 8,000, 6,000 mPa.s or 5,000 mPa.s, preferably still between 2,500 and 4,000 mPa.s.

[0085] This viscosity can be measured with a Rhéolab QC viscometer (Anton Paar) equipped with Rheoplus software using a suitable mobile device and measurement time, for example under the following conditions: Geometries Rotation speed (rpm) Measurement time (min) Coaxial cylinder: CC27 200 3 4 Blades: ST22 - 4V 100 3 Fin: ST24-2D-2V-2V 50 3 Anchor: ST22 - 2V 10 7

[0086] Prior to measurement, the emulsion of the invention will be placed in a 120 ml jar (Ref: 102171001, Kola Rond VT3 M120 Blanc Pharm) in an oven at 25°C for a minimum of 12 hours. Once the mobile device is immersed in the jar, the level of the composition must reach the neck of the jar.

[0087] The correct choice of mobile device is verified by measuring the percentage deviation of measurements taken every 6 seconds. According to this protocol, the viscosity value of the emulsion is equal to the average of the last fifteen measurements taken by the device during the measurement time indicated above.

[0088] A wet film of an emulsion according to the invention will advantageously have a thickness measured at 25°C of less than or equal to 65 microns, preferably less than or equal to 60 microns when the emulsion is deposited on a glass plate using an automatic spreader and a 100 µm thick bar.

[0089] The fineness of an emulsion deposit can be assessed by applying the product to a glass plate using an automatic spreader and a 100 µm thick rod. The spreads are then placed for 30 minutes to 2 hours in a temperature-controlled chamber at 25°C and 50% relative humidity.

[0090] The thickness measurement can be carried out immediately after spreading or as soon as it leaves the thermal enclosure, by any method known to a person skilled in the art.

[0091] An emulsion of the invention is advantageously stable, in that it does not separate over time: the aqueous phase and the oils do not separate to form two distinct phases that can be distinguished by visual examination. Stability can thus be verified after storing the emulsion in an oven at 50°C, 45°C, or 4°C for one or two months.

[0092] An emulsion according to one aspect of the invention may meet one of the following characteristics or a combination of several of these characteristics: The emulsion must contain less than 0.2% by weight, preferably less than 0.15% by weight, and preferably be free of an aqueous gelling agent (i.e., a compound that increases the viscosity of water by more than 5% at 25°C and atmospheric pressure when soluble or dispersible in water), without impairing the stability of the emulsion. In this case, the resulting product is less sticky, more fluid, and smoother during application. Examples of aqueous gelling agents include hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymers (INCI name carbomer), polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carrageenan, hydroxymethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. The emulsion of the invention is advantageously free of one of the aforementioned gelling agents. comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, or even be devoid of solid fatty compound(s) or fatty compound(s) comprising a solid phase, such as waxes or pasty compounds.Examples of solid fatty compounds include stearic acid, polyethylene wax, synthetic wax, paraffin wax or microcrystalline wax, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and glyceryl stearate. These compounds can increase the thickness of the lip balm film and / or increase the sticky feeling it may create. The lip balm should contain less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and preferably be free of the following: partially or fully cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, polystyrene / ethylene-propylene copolymers and polystyrene / ethylene-butylene copolymers, and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes.Indeed, these compounds can leave a greasy and / or sticky feeling on the lips, which the invention specifically seeks to avoid. The emulsion contains less than 5%, preferably less than 1% by weight, of a non-volatile solid or liquid silicone compound, or even none at all. Examples of silicone compounds include silicone resins, silicone elastomers, silicone surfactants, silicone gums, and phenylened silicone oils. The inventors have notably found that the presence, in the emulsion of the invention, of silicone compounds such as a phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate resin or cetyl dimethicone copolyol leads to films deposited on the lips that are perceived by users as being greasier, thicker—and therefore more noticeable—and less comfortable over time. The emulsion of the invention advantageously contains less than 1%, preferably 0% by weight, of non-volatile phenylened silicone compounds.Despite the very low content, or even absence, of silicone resin compounds, polysaccharides or phenyl dimethicones, the retention of the skincare and makeup properties of the product of the invention, in particular hydration and shine retention, is satisfactory, including less than 0.5% by weight of organic sunscreens, as these considerably diminish the sensory qualities of the emulsion, including less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably free from ester oil(s) selected from triglycerides derived from vegetable materials (castor oil for example) and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, including less than 2% by weight, preferably free from sorbitan ester(s), or sucrose ester(s) such as sucrose cocoate or sorbitan stearate.

[0093] The invention also relates to a lip makeup method that consists of applying one of the emulsions described above to the lips. All the characteristics described in relation to these emulsions apply to the makeup method of the invention.

[0094] The invention relates to a bottle equipped with an applicator containing the emulsion described above. The emulsion of the invention is advantageously packaged in a bottle (or applicator) equipped with an applicator and a cap (or stopper). The applicator may be a brush or a foam applicator, and is advantageously attached to the cap. The brush is preferably flat, and its tip may be straight or rounded. The bottle may be cylindrical, cube-shaped, or rectangular. The applicator may have various shapes—cylindrical, oblong, or flat, for example—and may optionally beveled to improve the precision of the emulsion's application to the lips.

[0095] A particular embodiment of the process for preparing one of the emulsions described above comprises at least three steps. In the first step, the second and third oils are mixed, and the polymer is then dissolved in this mixture at a temperature of 60°C or higher. In the second step, the temperature of the mixture obtained in the first step is lowered to a value between 30 and 60°C. The remaining oils, the oil gelling agent(s), and the volatile solvent(s) are then added, and the mixture is cooled to room temperature. Finally, in the third step, all the ingredients of the aqueous phase are mixed, and the aqueous phase is poured into the mixture obtained in the second step. In the fourth step, pigments may be added to the emulsion thus obtained. The mixing of all the ingredients is advantageously carried out under stirring and at atmospheric pressure.

[0096] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples. Examples:

[0097] We prepared two emulsions with the following compositions. Ingredients Example 1 Comparative Example 2 INCI name (in capital letters) and / or function and / or chemical name (in lowercase) % mass ISOSTEARYL ISOSTEARATE 9,0 OCTYLDODECANOL 22,0 21,0 Octyldodecanol soluble polymer (ETHYLCELLULOSE Ethocel ®< 7 FP) 3,0 5,0 Polyglycerol Esters 6,9 Volatile solvent 15,8 16,7 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 8,1 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 6,7 Oil gelling agent 0,6 0,8 LECITHIN 0,5 1 sorbitan sesquioleate 3,0 Conservative qs qs Antioxidant qs qs WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 GLYCERIN 5,0 5,0 CHONDRUS CRISPUS (CARRAGEENAN) 0,2 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0,2 0,2 ALCOHOL 1,4 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3,0 2,0 Pigments 0,5 1,5

[0098] The emulsion of Example 1 according to the invention was made by mixing the ingredients in the order in which they appear in the table above.

[0099] In the first step, the second and third oils were mixed, and the ethylcellulose was dissolved in this mixture at 90°C. In the second step, the temperature of the mixture obtained in the first step was lowered to 50°C. The remaining oils, the oil gelling agent(s), and the volatile solvents were then added, and the temperature of the mixture was lowered to 25°C. Finally, in the third step, all the ingredients of the aqueous phase were mixed, and the aqueous phase was added to the mixture obtained in the second step. The pigments were added to the resulting emulsion in the fourth step. The mixing of all the ingredients was carried out under stirring and at atmospheric pressure. • Stability study

[0100] The emulsions are placed in an oven at 50°C for 1 month.

[0101] Result: The product of example 1 according to the invention was stable while the product of comparative example 2 was not. • Viscosity measurement

[0102] The viscosity of the emulsion of example 1 according to the invention and that of a lip gloss corresponding to a prior art product available on the market, were measured with a Rhéolab QC viscometer (Anton Paar) equipped with Rheoplus software.

[0103] The viscosity of Example 1 according to the invention was measured with the Wing mobile rotating at 50 rpm for 3 minutes, while the viscosity of the commercial product (Mintel Data Sheet No. 2401385) was measured with the Anchor mobile rotating at 10 rpm for 7 minutes.

[0104] Prior to measurement, each composition is poured into a 120 ml jar (Ref: 102171001, Kola Rond VT3 M120 Blanc Pharm) and then placed in an oven at 25°C for a minimum of 12 hours. Once the mobile unit is immersed in the jar, the composition level reaches the neck of the jar.

[0105] The viscosity value of the emulsion is equal to the average of the last fifteen measurements taken by the device during the measurement time indicated above.

[0106] Result: the viscosity of Example 1 of the invention was between 2,500 and 4,000 mPa·s, and the viscosity of a prior art commercial product in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (Mintel Data Sheet No. 2401385) was between 10,000 and 22,000 mPa·s. The emulsion of the invention is much more fluid than the prior art emulsion. • Moisturizing power

[0107] The moisturizing power of Example 1 of the invention was measured using a CM 825 corneometer (Courage and Khazaka) on 10 Caucasian volunteers, by applying it to the forearm (T= 0).

[0108] Two 25-square-centimeter skin areas are randomly selected on the inner forearm of each volunteer. The emulsion is applied to one of the two selected areas at a concentration of 2 mg / cm² in an "in use" manner; the second, untreated area serves as a control.

[0109] The moisturizing effect of the emulsion at time T=X hours is equal to the percentage increase between the capacitance measured at time T=X hours on an untreated area of ​​forearm skin and the capacitance measured at time T=X hours on an area of ​​forearm skin on which the emulsion of Example 1 according to the invention has been applied after removal of the residual film.

[0110] We followed the same protocol to measure the moisturizing power of a commercial product in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (Mintel Fact Sheet No. 2401385).

[0111] Result: The moisturizing power of Example 1 according to the invention at T=6 hours was +68%. The moisturizing power of the prior art product at T=8 hours was +57%. In both cases, the observed variations were significant (p<0.01).

[0112] The emulsion of the invention has a much higher moisturizing power than the emulsion of the prior art. • in vivo self-assessments

[0113] The product of Example 1 of the invention and a prior art commercial product (Mintel Data Sheet No. 2401385) were independently evaluated by two different panels following the same protocol.

[0114] Panel for the evaluation of Example 1 of the invention: 32 Caucasian female volunteers aged 21 to 64 years (average age 47 years). Application to the lips once a day for one week, then for touch-ups during the day.

[0115] Panel for the evaluation of a prior art commercial product (Mintel Fact Sheet No. 2401385): 32 Caucasian female volunteers aged 26 to 70 years. Application to the lips twice a day for 4 consecutive weeks.

[0116] Each woman in the panel personally evaluated the effects and properties of the product by completing a questionnaire at the end of the testing period. The volunteers answered the questionnaire by indicating: "agree," "somewhat agree," "somewhat disagree," or "strongly disagree." For each item, the percentage of satisfaction (number of "agree" and "somewhat agree" responses) was calculated.

[0117] Results: The results obtained are shown in the table below. Property appraised Example 1 Commercial product of prior art The texture is non-sticky. 88 59 The film is thin and light 91 69 It's not noticeable on the lips (it's forgotten). 94 78 The product provides a feeling of freshness upon application. 84 72 The texture is pleasant to wear 94 84 The product is easy to apply 91 81 The film is neither too thin nor too thick 84 75 The lips are supple and soft. 94 84

[0118] All results were statistically significant.

[0119] The makeup result obtained with the emulsion of Example 1 according to the invention was perceived by the panel of volunteers as finer, more comfortable, very pleasant to wear and less sticky. • Tights Measurement

[0120] The emulsion of Example 1 of the invention is deposited onto a glass plate using an automatic spreader and a bar with a 100 µm gap. The spreads are placed for 1 hour in a temperature-controlled chamber at 25°C and 50% humidity.

[0121] Using a TAXT Plus texture analyzer (Stable Micro Systems), equipped with a 5 kg force sensor, constant pressure is applied for a set time using a 5 mm diameter stainless steel cylinder, which is then withdrawn at a constant speed. During the withdrawal phase, the emulsion exerts a suction force on the tool, which is correlated to the emulsion's stickiness.

[0122] For each application, five measurements were taken. The cylinder was systematically cleaned with ethanol between measurements. Measurements were never taken at the same location on the sample. The tackiness of the emulsion is equivalent to the work done by the detachment force measured during the tool withdrawal phase. It corresponds to the integral of the curve along the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter.

[0123] Measurement parameters: 1) Approach speed: 0.1 mm / sec 2) Speed ​​from contact detection: 0.1 mm / sec 3) Force / pressure: 0.197 N / 0.01 MPa 4) Contact time: 3 sec 5) Retraction speed: 0.1 mm / sec

[0124] We reproduced the protocol described above using a commercial product from the prior art (Mintel Sheet No. 1716698).

[0125] Result: the stickiness of the emulsion of Example 1 according to the invention was equal to 1.43 + / -0.06 J / m². The stickiness value of the prior art product was equal to 1.79 + / - 0.31 J / m². • Measuring the thickness of a composition film.

[0126] Using an automatic spreader and a 100 µm thick bar, either a spread of the emulsion of Example 1 according to the invention, or a spread of a commercial product of the prior art (Mintel Data Sheet No. 2401385), was deposited on a glass plate.

[0127] The thickness of these wet deposits was then measured after they had been left for one hour in an enclosure at 25°C and 50% relative humidity.

[0128] Result: The film thickness of the emulsion in Example 1 was 54.3 microns (standard deviation = 4.2), and the thickness of the commercial product was 69.2 microns (standard deviation = 1.5).

[0129] A spread of the emulsion of the invention is much thinner than a spread of another emulsion of the prior art, when the two products are spread according to the same protocol.

Claims

1. Water-in-oil emulsion comprising: - from 25 to 45% by weight of an aqueous phase comprising water and at at least one polyol, - from 25 to 50% by weight of a mixture of oils, - from 10 to 20% by weight of at least one volatile solvent chosen from silicone oils, a C1-C6 monohydric alcohol, and a hydrocarbon, - 0.05 to 5% of a gelling compound at least one of said oils or gelling the mixture of said oils, - a colouring agent, characterised in that the oil mixture comprises at least a first oil selected from polyglycerol esters, at least a second oil selected from fatty alcohol monoesters, and at least a third oil selected from fatty alcohols, and in that it comprises from 0.5 to 10% by weight of a polymer solubilised in the third oil, the percentages being expressed relative to the weight of the emulsion.

2. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterised in that the aqueous phase represents 30 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.

3. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the first oil is a mixture comprising a first ester selected from esters of a polyglycerol and an aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising 16 to 20 carbon atoms and a second ester selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates.

4. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the polyglycerol ester is an ester of polyglycerol and a C16-C20 fatty acid chosen from polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglycerol-2 isostearate and mixtures thereof.

5. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the second oil is a non-hydroxylated monoester comprising at least one C16-C20 alkyl chain, that is selected from isostearyl isostearate, isocetyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

6. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it comprises between 10 and 20%, preferably between 14 and 18% by weight, of oils having an ester function, relative to the weight of the emulsion.

7. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterised in that the volatile solvent is a silicone oil selected from dimethicones with a viscosity of 0.5 and 6 cst, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane.

8. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterised in that the volatile solvent is a hydrocarbon selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), and the undecane-tridecane mixture.

9. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the third oil is octyldodecanol and the polymer is ethylcellulose.

10. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the oil gelling agent is a hectorite modified with an alkylammonium chloride and represents from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.

11. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that - water accounts for 30 to 40% by weight and polyol accounts for 3 to 15% by weight, - the first oil is a mixture comprising at least two polyglycerol esters of C16-C20 fatty acids, preferably non-hydroxylated, and represents 1 to 15% by weight, - the second oil is a non-hydroxylated monoester comprising at least one, preferably two saturated C16-C20 alkyl chains, and represents 1 to 15% by weight, - the third oil is a saturated C10-C26 monoalcohol, and represents 10 to 30% by weight, - the volatile solvent comprises at least 80% by weight of a silicone solvent, - the gelling compound is a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, and represents 0.1 to 1% by weight, - the colouring agent represents from 0.1 to 5% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion.

12. Emulsion according to claim 11, characterised in that it comprises less than 5% by weight of a non-volatile solid or liquid silicone compound chosen from silicone resins, silicone elastomers, silicone surfactants, silicone gums and phenylated silicone oils.

13. Method for applying lip make-up, which consists of applying an emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 12 to the lips.

14. Bottle equipped with an application means and a cap, which bottle contains an emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 13, said application means being a brush or a honeycomb foam.