Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high content of naturally occurring ingredients

Description

Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions of the oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type with a high content of ingredients of natural origin, dedicated in particular to skin care, such as, for example, compositions for moisturizing, treating and / or reducing the signs of skin aging.

[0002] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention and the use of this cosmetic composition for skin care. Technological background

[0003] Cosmetic compositions for skin care have evolved over many years and remain in very strong consumer demand, for example to moisturize, treat, improve the appearance of the skin and / or reduce the signs of skin aging.

[0004] Different galenic forms exist on the market to provide different textures and / or a certain comfort during use by the consumer. They can be, for example, in the form of oils, creams, balms, masks, gels, waxes or serum depending on the texture, fluidity or viscosity desired for a given application. Compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions (or "direct" emulsions) are particularly appreciated in the cosmetic field because they provide a better sensoriality than water-in-oil emulsions, such as a lighter, less greasy, less sticky, fresher sensation on application. These emulsions are stabilized using emulsifiers or surfactants and certain thick textures, such as balms, require the addition of gelling agents or aqueous phase thickeners.

[0005] Today more than ever, compositions with more environmentally friendly ingredients are at the heart of consumer concerns, who are also increasingly informed and demanding. There is therefore a strong demand for natural and / or eco-designed products, i.e. products whose design and development take into account environmental impacts (raw materials and their manufacturing processes, sustainable management of natural ingredients, logistics and distribution of the product, packaging, biodegradability, etc.). More specifically, consumers are looking for cosmetic products with a high level of natural and / or naturally sourced ingredients.

[0006] Regulations have also evolved in this direction to better quantify the rate of ingredients of natural origin in a product. In particular, to determine the degree of naturalness of their developed and manufactured ingredients, manufacturers use the NF ISO 16128 standard, which defines different categories of ingredients of organic and / or natural origin and provides guidelines for calculating the percentage of ingredients of natural origin in their finished raw material and assigning a naturalness index to cosmetic ingredients.

[0007] Furthermore, like any other conventional cosmetic composition, eco-designed and / or natural cosmetic compositions must also meet performance and usage criteria (homogeneity, stability, applicability, safety, conservation).

[0008] At the same time, consumers remain very demanding when it comes to the sensory qualities and performance of products. In particular, they continue to seek out light textures that are pleasant to the touch and have good sensory properties, such as a soft, non-greasy, non-sticky feel and easy application to the skin.

[0009] However, the use of ingredients of natural origin has a significant impact on the sensoriality of a cosmetic product, but also on its stability and homogeneity. For example, formulas with a high level of natural and / or naturally derived ingredients have galenics that are often perceived as "pasty" and can hinder application.

[0010] Some natural emulsifiers, such as fatty alcohols, have the disadvantage of producing a soapy effect upon application (or a whitening effect upon application). To overcome this problem, silicones are known to be added to formulas to eliminate the soapy effect when applying the emulsion. However, these silicone materials are not of natural origin and have an impact on the environment.

[0011] As for natural gelling agents, they have a low gelling and / or emulsion stabilizing power that is not very effective at low percentages, unlike synthetic gelling agents. Using higher percentages of natural gelling agents helps promote stability but has a negative impact on sensoriality, generally resulting in a sticky, slimy and / or stringy effect. In addition, natural gelling agents have the disadvantage of leading to products that fluff up upon application.

[0012] Furthermore, depending on the desired galenic, lipophilic ingredients (of natural origin) are also necessary to give consistency to the product, such as butters, fatty alcohols or fatty acid glycerides. However, in the absence of synthetic gelling agents, these ingredients tend to crystallize in an anarchic manner and create visible grains in the texture. An additional problem is therefore the control of these crystallization phenomena.

[0013] Thus, there are many technical difficulties in formulating cosmetic emulsions comprising both a high level of ingredients of natural origin and having satisfactory performance in terms of stability and / or sensoriality. More natural compositions are known. Examples include the compositions described in document WO2020 / 254420. But these compositions circumvent the difficulties by using a synthetic gelling agent to obtain sufficient stability, consistency and sensoriality. However, pollution linked to synthetic polymers, which accumulate and persist in particular in waters and oceans, remains a major challenge in our time. EP2218440 also describes a system for solubilizing lipophilic compounds compatible with the formulation of natural and / or "certified organic" cosmetic products, comprising the combination of a sucrose ester and fatty acid and a polyglycerol ester and fatty acids.

[0014] There is therefore still a need to formulate cosmetic compositions with a high level of natural and / or naturally derived ingredients, and in particular free from synthetic polymers.

[0015] In particular, there is a need for cosmetic compositions, particularly for skin care, which have a high naturalness rate, for example comprising at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin, which is a criterion sought by more and more consumers.

[0016] There is also a need to formulate cosmetic emulsions of sufficient consistency, comprising both a high level of ingredients of natural origin (overall naturalness level of the cosmetic product) and having satisfactory performance in terms of sensoriality (ease of application to the skin, without braking sensation, non-sticky, without fluffing, without soap effect, without greasy sensation or thick film on the skin, pleasant and soft to the touch, etc.).

[0017] At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions with good stability and homogeneity over time (without release, crystallization or emulsion breakage), in particular which are stable throughout the product's storage period up to several months after its opening by the end user.

[0018] The applicant unexpectedly and surprisingly observed that all of these problems can be solved by the composition according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0019] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) at least one sugar and fatty acid ester; b) at least one sorbitan and fatty acid ester; c) at least one polyglycerol and fatty acid ester; d) at least one xanthan gum; and e) at least one gellan gum.

[0020] Indeed, after much research, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to provide a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, having sufficient consistency, with a high content of ingredients of natural origin and which also has the sensory properties and physicochemical stability of an emulsion composed of ingredients of petrochemical origin. In other words, the inventors have developed a composition making it possible to combine the advantages of emulsions with a high natural content with a low environmental impact (ecotoxicity, biodegradability) with the sensory quality and stability performances of emulsions composed of petrochemical ingredients.

[0021] In particular, the compositions according to the invention surprisingly combine all the desired properties such as an attractive appearance (smooth and not lumpy), a sufficient consistency and at the same time a light, non-pasty texture, easy to apply to the skin (not dragging), non-sticky, with a little "soap" effect on application, as well as a low and acceptable "fluffing" effect. The combination according to the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a viscosity sufficient to package the composition in a pot, for example in the form of a cream texture, or even a balm texture.

[0022] Furthermore, the combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions having very good stability over time as demonstrated in the examples. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin, preferably at least 99% of ingredients of natural origin. The percentage of ingredient of natural origin is calculated here according to the principles of standard NF ISO 16128. Surprisingly, the particular combination of ingredients highlighted by the inventors makes it possible to obtain compositions having a very high level of naturalness, while preserving the sensory and stability properties of the compositions obtained with ingredients of petrochemical origin.

[0023] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compounds and / or synthetic or petrochemical gelling agents. Indeed, the invention has the advantage of providing stable and sensory oil-in-water emulsions without requiring the addition of this type of compound.

[0024] The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to skin, particularly healthy skin. It can be used for cosmetic care and / or makeup, particularly for the skin. For example, it can be used as a cosmetic skin care product, for example to moisturize, protect, treat the skin and / or reduce the signs of skin aging. It can be used, for example, for the face, for the eye contour, for the hands or for the body.

[0025] Thus, the invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition as defined above as a cosmetic care product, preferably for moisturizing, protecting, treating the skin and / or reducing the signs of skin aging. Detailed description

[0026] General terms used herein are defined below.

[0027] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0028] The expression "comprising" includes the expression "consisting of".

[0029] The expression "from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" means a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, i.e. a carrier compatible with the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids). The cosmetic composition may be a care and / or makeup product, preferably a skin care product.

[0031] By "oil-in-water emulsion" (denoted O / W), we mean a composition consisting of a continuous aqueous phase in which a discontinuous fatty phase is dispersed, in particular in the form of droplets, so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsifier" means any compound or mixture of compounds capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. For the purposes of the present invention, this term designates amphiphilic compounds, i.e. compounds which have both a hydrophilic (polar) part and a lipophilic (apolar) part.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "natural" ingredient means an ingredient (or substance) present in nature (obtained from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals), unprocessed or obtained from physical processes only. For example, the ingredient may be extracted and / or processed by mechanical or gravitational means, by dissolution in water, by maceration, by extraction with water, by distillation, by grinding, by pressure, by flotation, by sedimentation, by filtration, etc. The naturalness index of a natural ingredient, determined according to standard NF ISO No. 16128 (or "natural origin index"), is 1 (100% natural ingredient). Examples of natural ingredients include water, plant extracts whose solvents are natural (water or other natural solvents), parts of plants or seeds, vegetable oils, mineral ingredients, etc.

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "naturally derived" ingredient means a natural ingredient extracted and / or chemically treated, having undergone chemical transformations of small scale and in limited number. These chemical transformations and processes can be carried out according to the principles of green chemistry (as opposed to petrochemical processes involving petroleum derivatives) and are for example listed in standard NF ISO n°16128. The naturalness index of a "naturally derived" ingredient, calculated according to standard NF ISO n°16128, is greater than 0.5 (i.e. it contains a proportion of more than 50% of the molecular mass derived from nature).

[0035] The term "natural origin" ingredient here includes "natural" ingredients and "naturally derived" ingredients as defined above. The naturalness index of an ingredient of natural origin, calculated according to standard NF ISO n°16128, is greater than 0.5 and less than or equal to 1. In contrast, synthetic ingredients or those derived mainly from fossil fuels have a naturalness index of 0. The name "INCI" designates the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the international nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free" means a mass quantity of ingredient (or substance) less than or equal to 0.1% relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.05%.

[0037] Unless otherwise stated, the term "fatty acid" for the purposes of the present invention means a carboxylic acid comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Fatty acids are preferably monocarboxylic. They may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Ester of sugar and fatty acid :

[0038] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of sugar and fatty acid (also called "sucroester").

[0039] This type of component is known as nonionic emulsion stabilizing surfactant.

[0040] It is an ester resulting from the reaction of one (or more) fatty acid(s) and a sugar, preferably sucrose. It can therefore be mono or polyesters of fatty acids and sucrose. The sugar and fatty acid ester can optionally be in the form of a mixture of mono and polyesters of the same fatty acid. The sugar and fatty acid esters preferably have a low degree of esterification, such as monoesters, diesters and triesters of sugar and fatty acid. Preferably, the sugar and fatty acid ester is chosen from mono and diesters of sucrose fatty acids.

[0041] The fatty acids are carboxylic acids, preferably monocarboxylic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Preferably, the fatty acids are monocarboxylic, linear and saturated.

[0042] Preferably, the fatty acids of the sugar ester comprise 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0043] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid.

[0044] Non-limiting examples of sucrose fatty acid esters (or sucroesters) that can be used in the composition according to the invention include sucrose cocoate, sucrose stearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose myristate, sucrose polystearate (also called sucrose polystearate) and a mixture thereof. The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise a mixture of two or more sucroesters of different fatty acids.

[0045] As non-limiting examples of sugar and fatty acid esters or mixtures comprising at least one sugar and fatty acid ester, mention may be made of the products marketed under the names: Arlacel 2121 (INCI name: sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate) from CRODA, Tegosoft PSE 141G (INCI name: sucrose stearate) from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, Surfhope SE COSME C-1816 manufactured by MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD (INCI name: sucrose stearate), Surfhope SE COSME C-1416 manufactured by MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD (INCI name: sucrose myristate), Surfhope SE COSME C-1216 manufactured by MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD (INCI name: sucrose laurate), Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L manufactured by MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD (INCI name: sucrose laurate), Surfhope SE COSME C-1616 manufactured by the company MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD, (INCI name sucrose palmitate).

[0046] Advantageously, the sugar and fatty acid ester is sucrose cocoate.

[0047] The mass content of sugar and fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 0.2%, preferably at least 0.3% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0048] On the other hand, the mass content of sugar and fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 0.8%, preferably at most 0.55% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0049] Preferably, the mass content of sugar and fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.2% to 0.8%, preferably from 0.2% to 0.6%, preferably from 0.3% to 0.55%, relative to the total mass of the composition. These preferred proportions make it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition. Sorbitan fatty acid ester :

[0050] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of sorbitan and fatty acid.

[0051] Sorbitan fatty acid esters are known to be emulsion-stabilizing nonionic surfactants. They may be mono or polyesters of sorbitan fatty acids. Due to the manner in which they are generally manufactured, sorbitan esters may comprise mixtures of mono, di, tri, or polyesters of the same fatty acid. Preferably, the sorbitan fatty acid ester is selected from mono and diesters of sorbitan fatty acids.

[0052] The fatty acids are carboxylic acids, preferably monocarboxylic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Preferably, the fatty acids are monocarboxylic, linear and saturated.

[0053] Preferably, the fatty acids of the sorbitan ester comprise 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0054] For example, fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid.

[0055] Non-limiting examples of sorbitan fatty acid esters that can be used in the composition according to the invention include sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan myristate and a mixture thereof.

[0056] As non-limiting examples of sorbitan and fatty acid esters or mixtures comprising at least one sorbitan and fatty acid ester, mention may be made of the products marketed under the names: Arlacel 2121 (Name Inci: Sorbitan Stearate & Sucrose Cocoate) of the company Croda, SPAN 60 (Name Inci: Sorbitan Stearate) of the company Croda, Span 120 (Name Inci: Sorbitan Isostearate) of the company Croda, span 65 (name Inci: Sorbitan sadaraat) of the company Cruda, Span 80 ( sorbitan oleate) from the company CRODA.

[0057] Advantageously, the sorbitan fatty acid ester is sorbitan stearate.

[0058] The mass content of sorbitan fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 1.8%, preferably at least 2.7% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0059] On the other hand, the mass content of sorbitan fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 5.4%, preferably at most 4.5% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0060] Preferably, the mass content of sorbitan fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention is from 1.8% to 5.4%, preferably from 2.7% to 4.5%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition. Polyglycerol fatty acid ester :

[0061] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyglycerol and fatty acid ester.

[0062] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polyglycerol and fatty acid ester” means an ester resulting from the reaction of a polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid.

[0063] A polyglycerol herein means a glycerol homopolymer comprising at least two glycerol units, preferably 3 to 10 glycerol units, preferably 4 to 8 glycerol units. More preferably, the polyglycerol comprises 6 glycerol units.

[0064] The polyglycerol and fatty acid esters may be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Esters or mixtures of esters with a low degree of esterification are preferably used, such as monoesters, diesters or triesters of polyglycerol and fatty acids.

[0065] Fatty acids are defined previously.

[0066] Preferably, the fatty acids of the polyglycerol ester comprise 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0067] They may for example be chosen from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0068] Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol fatty acid esters that can be used in the composition according to the invention include polyglyceryl-4 caprate (ester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol units and capric acid), polyglyceryl-6 distearate (diester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 6 glycerol units and stearic acid), polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate and a mixture thereof.

[0069] By way of non-limiting examples, we can cite the products marketed under the names: TEGOCARE PBS 6 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate & Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate; CAS no. 9009-32-9 and 64366-79-6) from the company EVONIK NUTRITION & CARE GMBH, TEGO SOLVE 90 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate & Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate & Aqua / Water / Eau) from the company EVONIK NUTRITION & CARE GMBH, TEGO SOLVE 61 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate & Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate & Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate & Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate & Aqua / Water / Eau) of the company EVONIK NUTRITION & CARE GMBH, EMULIUM ILLUSTRO (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate & Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate) marketed by the company GATTEFOSSE, DERMOFEEL G10 LW 70 MB (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate & Aqua & Citric Acid) from the company EVONIK NUTRITION & CARE GMBH.

[0070] Preferably, the at least one polyglycerol and fatty acid ester is chosen from polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate and their mixture.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two esters of polyglycerol and fatty acid. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate.

[0072] The mass content of polyglycerol fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, and more preferably at least 2%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0073] On the other hand, the mass content of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 6%, preferably at most 3%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0074] Preferably, the mass content of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.5% to 6%, preferably from 1% to 6%, preferably from 2% to 3%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition. Aqueous thickeners :

[0075] The composition according to the invention comprises at least two aqueous thickeners chosen from a xanthan gum and a gellan gum.

[0076] By "thickener" (also called gelling agent herein), we mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a polymer which, by its presence, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous thickener" means a water-soluble or water-dispersible or water-swellable polymer.

[0078] After extensive research, the inventors have demonstrated that the combination of the two particular gelling agents, xanthan gum and gellan gum, makes it possible to obtain both a creamy texture of sufficient viscosity and better stabilization of the emulsion (stabilization of the oil droplets in the fatty phase). In addition, combined with the mixture of emulsifiers, the particular combination of ingredients according to the invention makes it possible to surprisingly limit the crystallization phenomena of lipophilic consistency agents of natural origin (absence of grains or lumpy appearance).

[0079] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of aqueous synthetic thickener. As non-limiting examples of aqueous synthetic thickeners, mention may be made of polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (such as copolymers with an acryloyldimethyltaurate unit), carboxyvinyl polymers (such as carbomers, or hydrophilic synthetic polymers of acrylic acid) or polyurethanes.

[0080] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises xanthan gum.

[0081] Xanthan gum is a naturally occurring branched polysaccharide. This polysaccharide consists of a cellulose backbone (main chain of D-glucose residues) substituted, on alternating glucose residues, by a trisaccharide side chain containing a mannose residue, usually acetylated, a glucuronic acid residue and a terminal mannose residue. In addition, a pyruvic acid residue is carried by some terminal mannose residues (usually by 30% to 50% of the terminal mannose residues). Glucuronic acid and pyruvic acid residues are ionizable and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan. They can be neutralized in commercial products with cations such as Na +< , K +< or Ca 2+< .

[0082] Xanthan gums are produced on an industrial scale, as an exopolysaccharide, by the fermentation of the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris.The proportion of pyruvate residues and acetate groups can vary depending on the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the post-fermentation conditions and the purification steps.

[0083] Non-limiting examples of commercially available xanthan gums include compounds with CAS no. 11138-66-2 or products marketed under the names Rhodicare XC from DANISCO, Keltrol CG-SFT or Keltrol CG-V from CP KELCO, and products from the Satiaxane range (such as Satiaxane VPC 930) from CARGILL.

[0084] The mass content of xanthan gum in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 0.2%, preferably at least 0.3%, and more preferably at least 0.5%, relative to the total mass of the composition. On the other hand, the mass content of xanthan gum in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 1.2%, preferably at most 0.7%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, the mass content of xanthan gum in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.2% to 1.2%, preferably from 0.5% to 0.7%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition while avoiding crystallization phenomena due to lipophilic agents such as butters or fatty alcohols.

[0086] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises gellan gum.

[0087] Gellan gum is a naturally occurring linear polysaccharide consisting of glucose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid residues. The glucuronic acid residues are responsible for the anionic nature of gellan gum and can be neutralized in commercial products with cations. Gellan gums are exopolysaccharides produced by the fermentation of bacteria Sphingomonas elodea. Non-limiting examples of commercially available gellan gums include compounds with CAS no. 71010-52-1 or products marketed under the names KELCOGEL CG-HA from CP KELCO, Nutrier GL-L30C or GL-H40C from SIDERE.

[0088] The mass content of gellan gum in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 0.05%, preferably at least 0.1%, and more preferably at least 0.2%, relative to the total mass of the composition. On the other hand, the mass content of gellan gum in the composition according to the present invention may be at most 0.5%, preferably at most 0.3%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0089] Preferably, the mass content of gellan gum in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.05% to 0.5%, preferably from 0.1% to 0.3%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition while avoiding crystallization phenomena.

[0090] Preferably, the sum of the mass contents of xanthan gum and gellan gum in the composition according to the present invention is at least 0.3%, preferably at least 0.5%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the sum of the mass contents of xanthan gum and gellan gum in the composition according to the present invention is at most 1.7%, preferably at most 1.2%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0092] Preferably, the sum of the mass contents of xanthan gum and gellan gum in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.3% to 1.7%, preferably from 0.5% to 1.2%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0093] This allows for better stability and sensoriality of the composition while avoiding crystallization phenomena. Fat phase :

[0094] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. In other words, the composition according to the invention comprises a discontinuous fatty phase. The fatty phase is organic and immiscible in water.

[0095] The fatty phase (also called here the oily phase) comprises at least one fatty substance.

[0096] For the purposes of the invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is immiscible in water at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 . 10 5 < Pa; 760 mm Hg). More particularly, the solubility of these compounds in water is less than 5%, preferably 1% and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass. This type of compound generally has in its structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0097] Fats can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 . 10 5 < Pa; 760 mm Hg).

[0098] In the composition according to the invention, the fatty phase comprises at least one oil. The fatty phase may consist essentially of one oil or a mixture of several oils.

[0099] The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (101,325 Pa; 760 mm Hg). Liquid oils or fats can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0100] "Volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is liquid at room temperature and can have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 < to 300 mm Hg).

[0101] A "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours. These oils have a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (less than 10 -3< mm Hg).

[0102] In the context of the present invention, hydrocarbon fatty bodies are preferably used, in particular of natural origin.

[0103] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free from silicone fatty substances and fluorinated fatty substances.

[0104] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon" means a compound containing at least one hydrocarbon group (i.e. a group containing hydrogen and carbon atoms), and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon compound may, for example, contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. More particularly, in the context of the present invention, a hydrocarbon compound does not contain a silicon or fluorine atom.

[0105] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone" means a compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Examples include organopolysiloxanes.

[0106] "Fluorinated" means a compound containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0107] As fatty substances which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbons comprising 6 to 16 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon oils comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils, vegetable oils (triglycerides, fatty acids), glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, fatty acid ethers and mixtures thereof.

[0108] The C6 to C16 hydrocarbons are preferably of plant origin. They may be linear or branched, and are preferably alkanes. Examples include n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), or a mixture of alkanes (e.g., undecane and tridecane).

[0109] Hydrocarbon oils (or hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms) are preferably of plant origin. They may be linear or branched compounds. Examples of hydrocarbon oils include squalane. Vegetable oils are preferably chosen from triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Glycerides are esters of glycerol and one (monoglycerides) or more (diglycerides and triglycerides) fatty acids. They are preferably of natural origin. Examples include capric / caprylic acid triglycerides.

[0111] The fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention may be more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol. In the context of the present invention, the fatty alcohols which can be used as fatty substances are preferably of natural origin.

[0112] The so-called "fatty" esters have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups. They can be chosen from fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, optionally hydroxylated. These esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, may in particular be chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 to C26 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, linoleyl lactate, isocetyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl oleate,isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, isostearyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl myristate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, isostearyl lactate, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl malate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, ethyl2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl, heptanoates (such as isostearyl heptanoate), octanoates (such as cetyl octanoate, cetearyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate).,

[0113] The fatty acid ethers have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups. They may be more particularly chosen from ethers comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. They are preferably of plant origin, such as for example dicaprylyl ether.

[0114] Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one fatty substance which is not liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (101,325 Pa; 760 mm Hg).

[0115] By non-liquid fatty substance, we mean a solid compound or a compound with a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s -1< , measured with a Rhéomat RM 180 (generally with spindle 1 or 2).

[0116] Among the non-liquid fatty substances, we can for example cite butters, waxes and more generally non-liquid fatty alcohols (such as myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc.), non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters (such as octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, etc.), non-liquid fatty amines and ethers.

[0117] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one butter of plant origin. The presence of a plant butter generally provides emollient but also sensory properties. This makes it possible in particular to give consistency to the composition. A disadvantage is that their presence can lead to a lumpy appearance due to crystallization phenomena. However, the inventors have demonstrated that the particular association according to the invention makes it possible to surprisingly avoid these crystallization phenomena.

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (or "pasty fatty substance") means a fatty substance (therefore lipophilic) with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be lower than 25°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound (butter) measured at 25°C may, for example, represent 10 to 90% by mass of the compound.

[0119] Preferably, the butter(s) have an end of melting temperature of less than 60°C.

[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, the end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted. The measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end of melting temperature can be carried out according to the protocol described in document WO2020 / 127383.

[0121] Advantageously, the mass content of butter in the composition according to the invention is from 2% to 10%, preferably from 5 to 8%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0122] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase viscosity agent chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably of natural origin.

[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty phase viscosifying agent" means a lipophilic compound which, by its presence, makes it possible to give consistency to the composition, i.e. to increase the viscosity of the composition.

[0124] Preferably, the consistency agent is a fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols that can be used, mention may be made of myristic or myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol. The presence of fatty alcohol as a viscosity agent, in particular solid or waxy at room temperature (25°C), makes it possible to give consistency to the composition according to the invention (on setting and on application). Surprisingly, the particular combination according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the soap effect on application which is generally observed with fatty alcohols, and this without requiring the introduction of silicone oil.

[0125] Advantageously, the mass content of fatty alcohol as a viscosity agent in the composition according to the invention is from 2% to 6%, preferably from 3% to 5%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This is preferable for the sensoriality of the composition.

[0126] The composition according to the invention may have a total mass content of fatty substances of at least 5%, preferably at least 8%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0127] The composition according to the invention may have a total mass content of fatty substances of at most 25%, preferably at most 23%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0128] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may have a total mass content of fatty substances of 5% to 25%, preferably of 8% to 23%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This is preferable for the stability and sensoriality of the composition.

[0129] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may have a total oil mass content of at least 5%, preferably at least 8%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0130] The composition according to the invention may have a total oil mass content of at most 15%, preferably at most 10%, relative to the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may have a total oil mass content of 5% to 15%, preferably 8% to 10%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This is preferable for the stability and sensoriality of the composition. The fatty phase may further comprise additional ingredients soluble or miscible in oil such as, for example, solvents, formulating agents and / or liposoluble active agents.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone compound. Aqueous phase :

[0132] The composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0133] The aqueous phase comprises water. It may further comprise additional water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as, for example, water-soluble solvents, water-soluble formulating agents and / or water-soluble actives.

[0134] Among the solvents soluble or miscible in water, mention may be made, for example, of short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1 to C4 (such as ethanol, isopropanol), polyols, linear or branched, for example comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms, for example comprising 2 to 6 -OH functions (such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol), and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content by mass of at least 50%, preferably at least 55%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This makes it possible to obtain better sensory properties and stability of the composition.

[0136] The composition according to the invention may have a mass content of water of at most 90%, preferably at most 80%, preferably at most 70%, relative to the total mass of the composition. This is preferable for the feasibility and stability of the composition. Additional compounds:

[0137] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more formulation agents, in particular conventional cosmetic active ingredients or excipients.

[0138] These formulating agents can be chosen appropriately depending on the use of the composition of the invention.

[0139] Non-limiting examples of formulating agents include hydrophilic or lipophilic actives, organic solvents (e.g. lower alcohols and polyols), ionic or non-ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic rheological (thickening or gelling) agents, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, anti-foaming agents, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric), fillers (e.g. mattifying powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotective agents, organic and / or inorganic, active in UVA and / or UVB), colorants, chelating agents (chelating), alkalizing or acidifying agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, perfumes or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.The quantities of these different compounds are those conventionally used in the fields considered. These compounds, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.

[0140] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient. Among the active ingredients, we may cite for example: anti-pollution agents and / or anti-free radical agents and / or antioxidant agents (coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone); lightening agents, depigmenting agents, pro-pigmenting agents and / or self-tanning agents; anti-aging agents; tightening or anti-wrinkle agents, such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (for example soy protein extract); moisturizing agents (such as polyols such as glycerin); anti-inflammatory agents (such as glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts); soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water), anti-microbial or antibacterial agents (such as salicylic acid); tightening agents; firming agents;vitamins (such as retinol or vitamin A, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives such as, for example, esters of these vitamins); essential oils.

[0141] Thanks to his knowledge of cosmetics, the person skilled in the art is able to choose the formulation agents to be added to the compositions of the invention and their quantities according to the desired properties without substantially altering the effects linked to the composition according to the invention.

[0142] The composition according to the invention can have different rheological profiles and be presented in the form of a cream, a gel, a balm.

[0143] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a thick texture and is in the form of a balm.

[0144] In particular, the composition may have a viscosity, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5< Pa), ranging from 20,000 to 80,000 Pa.s., in particular from 40,000 to 65,000 Pa.s. measured with the Mobile 6 Vitesse 6 Brookfield RV on Rheomat.

[0145] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has, compared to similar compositions available commercially, a high or even higher naturalness, which can be more than 99% of ingredients of natural origin, while having both a sensoriality and a stability comparable to compositions formulated with emulsifiers and / or thickeners of synthetic origin. The inventors have notably demonstrated that the particular combination of ingredients makes it possible to obtain a smooth, non-lumpy, non-sticky, non-braking texture which soaps and fluffs little upon application.

[0146] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to smooth the skin and improve the hydration, softness, appearance and radiance of the skin. Thus, the invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition as defined above as a care product, preferably for moisturizing, protecting, treating the skin and / or reducing the signs of skin aging.

[0147] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic skin care process comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined above. Examples

[0148] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. The compounds or raw materials used are named by their INCI name. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages indicated are percentages by mass. The mention "qsp" means that the quantity must be sufficient for the composition to reach 100% of its final mass. Example 1:

[0149] Compositions 1 to 5 are prepared according to the procedure described below with the proportions in % indicated in Table 1 below. The different compositions are also evaluated in terms of their appearance, their stability over time and their application properties. Table 1. P INCI NAMES Compositions (%) Outside of invention Invention 1 2 3 4 5 A AQUA / WATER / EAU 58,87 58,87 58,87 58,87 58,87 SODIUM PHYTATE (a)< 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 CITRIC ACID (h)< 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 B PROPANEDIOL (i)< 3 3 3 3 3 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN (b)< 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 C GLYCERIN (i)< 3 3 3 3 3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL (k)< 2 2 2 2 2 XANTHAN GUM (and) AQUA / WATER / EAU (c)< 1 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 GELLAN GUM (d)< - - 0,3 0,3 0,3 ALGIN (e)< - 0,3 - - - D SORBITAN STEARATE (and) SUCROSE COCOATE (f)< 5 5 5 - 3 E POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-6 BEHENATE (g)< - - - 5 2 SQUALANE (l)< 8 8 8 8 8 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL (m)< 3 3 3 3 3 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER (n)< 5 5 5 5 5 CETYL ALCOHOL (o)< 5 5 5 5 5 F ALCOHOL (p)< 5 5 5 5 5 ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE (q)< 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 0,01 G AQUA / WATER / EAU 0,72 0,72 0,72 0,72 0,72 CITRIC ACID (h)< 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 Total : 100 100 100 100 100 % of ingredients of natural origin 99.69 99.69 99.69 99.69 99.69

[0150] In the table above: The left column labeled "P" indicates the phases in which the compounds are present; the references in parentheses (next to the INCI names of the compounds) indicate the trade names of the raw materials used comprising these compounds. The details of these raw materials are given below: (a)< DERMOFEEL PA-12 (INCI name: sodium phytate) marketed by the company EVONIK Nutrition & Care GmbH. (b)< SENSIVA SC 50 (ingredient of synthetic origin, INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) marketed by the company SCHÜLKE FRANCE SARL. (c)< RHODICARE XC (INCI name: xanthan gum (and) aqua / water / eau) marketed by the company DANISCO. (d)< KELCOGEL CG-HA (INCI name: gellan gum) marketed by the company CP KELCO. (e)< SATIALGINE VCG 171 (INCI name: Algin) marketed by the company UNIPEX. (f)< ARLACEL 2121 (INCI name: sorbitan stearate (and) sucrose cocoate) marketed by the company CRODA.(g)< TEGO CARE PBS 6 (INCI name: polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate) marketed by EVONIK Nutrition & Care GmbH. (h)< Citric acid monohydrate powder, marketed by MERCK (i)< ZEMEA Propanediol, marketed by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products. (j)< Wilfarin EP997, marketed by WILMAR. (k)< BRONTIDE BG, marketed by the company AZELIS (l)< Squalane Neossance or Squalane Biossance from the company AMYRIS (m)< HYDROBASE 24 / 26 (INCI name: Cocos nucifera oil), marketed by the company LABORATOIRES PROD'HYG (France) (n)< Cetiol SB 45 (INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii), marketed by the company BASF (o)< Cetyl Alcohol 98%, marketed by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS (p)< Surfin Alcohol 96.2, marketed by the company TEREOS (q)< MUSK T, marketed by the company TAKASAGO. Operating mode :

[0151] Phase A is prepared by dissolving sodium phytate and then citric acid in water in a beaker with Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculator until the sodium phytate and citric acid are dissolved.

[0152] Phase B is first prepared by mixing propanediol and ethylhexylglycerin. Phase B is then added to phase A and the whole is stirred for 5 minutes at 300 rpm (rotations per minute).

[0153] Phase C is prepared by mixing glycerin and butylene glycol and then pre-dispersing the aqueous polysaccharide thickener(s) (xanthan gum and, if applicable, gellan gum or algin) into this phase. Phase C is then added to the previous aqueous mixture with Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculator. Stirring is maintained until the polysaccharides are deployed (approximately 20 min at 1000 rpm). The mixture, with stirring, is heated to 55°C using a hot plate.

[0154] Phase D (mixture of sugar ester and sorbitan ester emulsifiers) is then added to the previous aqueous mixture, still at 55°C. Then everything is stirred for 15 min with a deflocculator at 75°C.

[0155] Phase E is prepared by mixing the polyglycerol esters with the fatty substances (squalane, coconut oil, shea butter and fatty alcohol). This phase E is then heated to 75°C.

[0156] The emulsion is then made by adding, under Rayneri deflocculating stirring, phase E to the mixture obtained (phases A, B, C and D). Stirring is maintained at 1200 rpm for 15 minutes between 75°C and 70°C. A smooth, shiny, white and thick emulsion that sticks to the spatula is obtained.

[0157] The mixture is then cooled to 30°C before adding phase F (mixture of alcohol and ethylene brassylate) under Rayneri deflocculating stirring. The resulting mixture is stirred for 10 min then cooled to 28°C (the pH is then approximately 5.9)

[0158] The pH is then adjusted by adding phase G (citric acid in water) to the previous mixture with deflocculating stirring (the pH is then close to 5).

[0159] Oil-in-water emulsions are thus obtained. Assessment methods : Viscosity measurement :

[0160] The viscosity is measured after obtaining the composition (O / W emulsion), after 24 hours of storage of the composition in an oven at 20°C.

[0161] Viscosity is measured using a Brooksfield viscometer, model RVT (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc.), at an ambient temperature of approximately 20°C. This device measures the torque required to rotate, at a given speed "V", a spindle "M" of a given size (selected according to the manufacturer's standard operating recommendations), immersed in the fluid to be tested. Here, viscosity is measured with spindle no. RV S06 at a speed of 6 rpm (rotations per minute). Measurements are expressed in cP (centipoise or Pa.s). The results are listed in Table 2 below. Stability assessment :

[0162] The stability of the above compositions was studied after preparation and / or after storage under accelerated conditions at 50°C for 1 month (in a thermostatically controlled oven).

[0163] The compositions were evaluated by sensory analysis (appearance, color and odor). The overall appearance and color are evaluated with the naked eye and under a microscope (Olympus BH2 Microscope 10x10 magnification) in order to control the color, the surface, any release phenomena, phase separation, sedimentation or agglomeration, as well as the possible presence of precipitates, grains, phase shift or volute. The odor is compared with two control compositions (one stored in the dark at 20°C and the other stored at 4°C in the refrigerator).

[0164] The results are listed in Table 2 below. Compositions 1 to 5 have a more or less high viscosity. All compositions have a smooth initial appearance except composition 3 which has a very slightly lumpy appearance in the initial state.

[0165] Stability studies after storage under accelerated conditions show that compositions 1 and 2, which do not include the combination of the two thickeners xanthan gum and gellan gum, are not stable, either because the emulsion breaks or because a crystallization phenomenon occurs with the appearance of grains. As for composition 3, which does not include polyglycerol ester, the stability of the emulsion is acceptable but its appearance becomes slightly lumpy and waxy after storage at 50°C. Unlike compositions 1 to 3, composition 5 according to the invention is stable, white and smooth and retains a thick cream texture (balm texture, with a viscosity greater than 40,000 Pa.s). Evaluation of sensory properties:

[0166] Compositions 3 to 5, of satisfactory stability, have a smooth initial appearance with a soft, non-sticky and non-pasty texture, with however a slightly lumpy appearance for composition 3. The sensory properties of these compositions are evaluated on a panel of six experts: the soap effect, the plush effect and the braking effect are evaluated according to the following operating procedures. For each of these operating procedures, the compositions are deposited using a pipette on the skin previously cleaned with water and liquid soap and wiped with a paper tissue. The results are listed in Table 2 below. Evaluation of the soap effect:

[0167] For each composition, 0.5 mL of product is applied to the forearm. Circular movements are made with the hand (1 rotation per second) until the product is absorbed. The moment when the product soaps the most is noted and this soap potential is visually assessed on a scale of 0 (no soap effect) to 4 (white application area that covers almost all of the skin). In Table 2, the average of the 6 expert panelists is used.

[0168] The results show that composition 4, which does not contain the combination of sugar ester and sorbitan ester emulsifiers, has a very significant soap effect, unlike what is observed when applying composition 5 according to the invention which has a weak soaping effect. Evaluation of the plush effect:

[0169] For each composition, 0.5 mL of product is applied to the forearm. 15 circular movements are made with the hand (15 turns in 15 seconds), then 15 seconds are waited, and 15 circular movements are made again in 15 seconds, then 1 minute is left to stand and 15 circular movements are made again in 15 seconds. The moment when the product forms the most fluff is noted and this fluffing potential is evaluated on a scale of 0 (no fluffing effect) to 4 (very strong presence of fluff). In Table 2, the average of the 6 expert panelists is used.

[0170] The results show that composition 3, which does not contain polyglycerol ester, fluffs strongly when applied to the skin, unlike composition 5 according to the invention. Evaluation of the braking or sliding effect :

[0171] For each composition, 0.5 mL of product is applied to the forearm. 15 circular movements are made with the hand (15 turns in 15 seconds). The "glide" during application is assessed, i.e., the ease of application of the product and its ability to cover a specific area, as opposed to the braking effect, i.e., the potential of the product to cling to the skin during application. The braking effect is assessed on a scale of 0 (no braking effect, good glide) to 4 (the product clings strongly to the skin during application). In Table 2, the average of the 6 expert panelists is used.

[0172] Composition 5 according to the invention is very easy to apply with good glide, while comparative compositions 3 and 4 are more braking and less easy to apply. Results :

[0173] The results are listed in Table 2 below. Table 2. Compositions Outside of invention Invention 1 2 3 4 5 Viscosity in cP (at D=24h) 33167 20500 35667 54667 48667 Appearance (at D=24h) smooth smooth Slightly lumpy smooth smooth Stability and Appearance (after storage at 50°C for 1 month) Complete breakage of the emulsion after 15 days at 50°C Appearance of grains after 15 days at 50°C Stable emulsion, lumpy and waxy appearance Stable emulsion, smooth appearance Stable emulsion, smooth appearance Soap effect N / A N / A 1 4 2 Braking effect N / A N / A 2 2 1 Plush effect N / A N / A 4 1 1

[0174] In the table above, the mention "NA" means that the effect has not been evaluated (Not Applicable).

[0175] In conclusion, composition 5 according to the invention comprising the particular combination of thickeners and emulsifiers, makes it possible to reconcile all the desired properties such as stability, consistency and sensoriality with a soap effect and a low fluff effect and easy application with good glide of the product on the skin. In addition, composition 5 according to the invention has a smooth, creamy and non-lumpy appearance and makes it possible to avoid crystallization phenomena. Finally, composition 5 according to the invention has a soft, non-sticky, non-greasy to the touch and light texture, which does not give a feeling of heaviness.

[0176] The particular combination of ingredients according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain a composition with a high level of naturalness, while presenting the required sensory and stability properties. Example 2:

[0177] Another example of composition according to the invention is given with composition 6 comprising the proportions in % indicated in table 3 below. Table 3. P INCI NAMES Composition (%) Invention 6 A AQUA / WATER / EAU 63,48 SODIUM PHYTATE (a)< 0,1 CITRIC ACID (h)< 0,05 B PROPANEDIOL (i)< 8 C GLYCERIN (j)< 3 XANTHAN GUM (and) AQUA / WATER / EAU (c)< 0,7 GELLAN GUM (d)< 0,3 D SORBITAN STEARATE (and) SUCROSE COCOATE (f)< 3 E POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-6 BEHENATE (g)< 2 SQUALANE (l)< 8 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL (m)< 1 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER (n)< 2 CETYL ALCOHOL (o)< 2 F PHENETHYL ALCOHOL 0,5 Scent 0,1 G ALCOHOL (p)< 5 H AQUA / WATER / EAU 0,72 CITRIC ACID (h)< 0,05 Total : 100 % of ingredients of natural origin 99,5

[0178] Composition 6 is prepared according to the procedure described previously for mixing phases A to E (obtaining a smooth emulsion).

[0179] The mixture is then cooled to 30°C before adding phase F (containing phenylethyl alcohol) with Rayneri deflocculating stirring. The resulting mixture is stirred for 10 min.

[0180] Phase G (alcohol) is then added with Rayneri deflocculating stirring.

[0181] The pH is then adjusted by adding phase H (citric acid in water) to the previous mixture with deflocculating stirring (the pH is then close to 5). A white, shiny, semi-thick oil-in-water emulsion is thus obtained.

[0182] Composition 6 is also evaluated in terms of its appearance, its stability over time and its application properties (soap effect, braking effect and fluff effect).

[0183] Composition 6 according to the invention is sufficiently consistent to be packaged in a jar. This composition has a pH (at D=24h) of 5.09 and a viscosity (at D=24h) of 38667 cP.

[0184] Composition 6 also has a smooth, creamy, non-lumpy appearance that is stable over time, without recrystallization. Its consistency is also preserved over time.

[0185] In addition, composition 6 combines the desired sensory properties, comparable to those of composition 5, with a soap effect and a low fluff effect and easy application with good glide of the product on the skin. Finally, composition 6 has a soft and non-sticky texture, with a slightly less greasy melt than that of composition 5 according to the invention.

[0186] In conclusion, the combination of ingredients according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain natural, stable and homogeneous oil-in-water compositions over time, while combining both easy application with good glide and a completely satisfactory sensoriality by limiting the soap effect and the fluff effect.

Claims

1. Composition cosmetic in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising : a) at least one fatty acid sugar ester ; b) at least one sorbitan fatty acid ester; c) at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester; d) at least one xanthan gum; and e) at least one gellan gum.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the sugar fatty acid ester is sucrose cocoate.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the sorbitan fatty acid ester is sorbitan stearate.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two polyglycerol fatty acid esters.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester comprises 6 glycerol units.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester is chosen from 6-polyglyceryl stearate, 6-polyglyceryl behenate and mixtures thereof.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content by mass of polyglycerol fatty acid ester is at least 0.5% relative to the total mass of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the sum of the mass contents of xanthan gum and gellan gum is at least 0.3%, preferably at least 0.5%, relative to the total mass of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition further comprising a butter of plant origin.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one fatty phase viscosifier chosen from fatty alcohols.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition being free of silicone compound.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition being free of aqueous synthetic thickener.

13. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for cosmetic skin care, preferably for moisturising, protecting, treating the skin and / or attenuating the signs of skin ageing.