Dye composition comprising henna and cellulase, and dyeing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic product for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising two compositions that are separate from each other, the first composition comprising glycosylated lawsone and the second composition comprising at least one enzyme having cellulase activity. The invention further relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibers using a cosmetic product according to the invention.

Description

[0001] Dyeing composition comprising henna and cellulase as well as dyeing process

[0002] The invention relates to a cosmetic agent for coloring keratin fibers, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone and the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with cellulase activity. Furthermore, the invention relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers using a cosmetic agent according to the invention.

[0003] Coloring human hair using natural products is enjoying increasing popularity. Henna, a plant-based dye, has been known since ancient times. As a hair colorant, it is traditionally used in the form of a fine powder made from ground leaves. The powder is mixed with hot water to form a paste and then applied to the top layer of hair. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the coloring process is more cumbersome and time-consuming.

[0004] The primary pigment in henna is lawsone (2-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone), along with other color-imparting quinones and phenols. Lawsone is present in plants primarily in glycosidic form. More precisely, in henna, the so-called hennoside, a precursor to the active lawsone, is present in glycosidic form (see left structural formula in Scheme 1). Free lawsone (see right structural formula in Scheme 1) is the coloring species, but it is only formed by hydrolysis of the hennoside and oxidation of the aglycone (hydrolawsone) when the henna powder is mixed with water (see Scheme 1).

[0005] + glue

[0006] R= glue R - R"= H

[0007] R-glue R = R"= H

[0008] R'-gluc R = R - H

[0009] Scheme 1: Enzymatically catalyzed reaction of hennoside (isomer glucoside) to lawsone (aglycone). The hydrolytic cleavage of hennoside occurs enzymatically – among other things, by the plant's own ß-glucosidase – as soon as the plant powder comes into contact with water. The unbound lawsone is released, which can bind to the proteins of the hair keratin. The released form of lawsone is only reactive within a limited time window, in which it can interact with the side groups of the amino acids (e.g., with thiols of cysteine). The quinoid form of lawsone reacts continuously after release unless it is applied directly to the hair fiber and bound. This phenomenon prevents the incorporation of henna and other plant powders with glycosidically bound dyes into a stable emulsion base that intensely colors the hair, regardless of storage time.

[0010] This mechanism described above prevents easy handling of cosmetic products based on naturally occurring henna dyes.

[0011] The object underlying the invention is to provide a cosmetic agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, based on henna, which ensures easier and improved applicability. Furthermore, the invention was based on the object of providing an improved coloring process for keratin fibers, in particular human hair, based on henna.

[0012] The object underlying the invention is achieved by the subject matter of claim 1. A first subject matter of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone and / or its derivatives and wherein the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with cellulose activity.

[0013] The enzymatic release of the henna-derived pigment lawsone in the plant-derived henna powder is the decisive factor that has so far limited the incorporation of henna powder into aqueous systems. If henna's own ß-glucosidase is inactivated or separated from the glycosylated lawsone and the enzymatic hydrolysis of the pigment is controlled by adding a new biocatalyst in the form of an enzyme or enzyme-containing plant powder in a second step, the incorporation of henna into aqueous systems can be enabled. In the present invention, the biocatalyst is an enzyme with cellulase activity, which is contained in the second composition of the two-component cosmetic product. This enzyme, after the first and second compositions combine, causes the glycolysis of the glycosylated lawsone contained in the first composition.

[0014] The first composition can be referred to as dye compositions (F), and the second composition can be referred to as biocatalyst compositions (BKF). Glycosylated lawsone is present in the first composition, stabilized by sugar groups. The first composition can thus represent an aqueous, hydrolase-free system. Glycosylated lawsone is understood to mean any hennoside that bears one or more glycosyl groups on the oxygen atoms of the bicycle or a glycosyl group on any oxygen (see left structure of Scheme 1).

[0015] According to a preferred embodiment, the enzyme with cellulase activity is a hydrolase, preferably a cellulase or protease. The hydrolase may have beta-glucosidase activity and / or endoglucanase activity. According to a further preferred embodiment, the hydrolase is selected from the group consisting of a plant-derived cellulase, a cellulase derived from a bacterium or a protist, and a biotechnologically produced enzyme.

[0016] These enzymes are able to cleave the glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives in the first composition and then make them available for the staining process.

[0017] Enzyme inactivation of naturally obtained henna powder can be achieved through various pretreatments. Enzymes are strongly influenced by factors such as temperature, pH, solvent polarity, ionic strength, etc. The preferred denaturation of the henna's own enzyme can be achieved by heat treatment of henna powder. The isolation and separation of the glycosylated lawsone and the enzyme can be achieved using ethanolic extraction or extraction with another polar solvent. There are therefore two ways to produce the initial composition containing lawsone.

[0018] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives obtained from the extract from the extraction of dried henna powder with a polar solvent, preferably an alcohol, more preferably ethanol. Alternatively, the glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives are obtained from dried henna powder that is subjected to a step of inhibiting or deactivating its own enzymes. Preferably, the inhibition is carried out by mixing the dried henna powder with a hot aqueous composition or hot water, more preferably at temperatures above 80°C, even more preferably between 85°C and 120°C, most preferably between 90°C and 100°C. When temperatures above 100°C are used, the deactivation preferably takes place under pressure in order to work with liquid water or a liquid aqueous composition.

[0019] According to a further preferred embodiment, the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 25 wt%, preferably 0.2 wt% to 15 wt%, more preferably 0.3 wt% to 5 wt%, most preferably 0.4 wt% to 1.4 wt%.

[0020] According to a further preferred embodiment, the first composition is water-based. More preferably, the first composition is an aqueous solution or a gel, or the first composition is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion. Particular advantages are associated with features of the invention relating to the natural origin of components and ingredients of the cosmetic agent according to the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the enzyme with cellulase activity is obtained from the raffinate from the extraction of dried henna powder with a polar solvent, preferably an alcohol, more preferably ethanol. The extraction process allows glycosylated lawsone and the enzymes of the henna powder to be separated from one another. The optionally processed raw materials, glycosylated lawsone and enzymes, are finally added to the first and second compositions, respectively.

[0021] In the context of the present invention, an extraction is to be understood as what is conventionally understood in chemistry as the separation method of extraction. In particular, in the present invention, an extraction is understood as a process in which a substance or mixture of substances is separated from the solid using a solvent. The solvent is called an extractant and is suitable if it dissolves the substance to be extracted but not the other components. The mixture of extracted substance and solvent or extractant is called the extract, and the remaining residue is called the raffinate or extraction product.

[0022] A polar solvent is a solvent that is polar in the physicochemical sense.

[0023] According to another preferred alternative embodiment, the enzyme can be obtained from the henna powder itself. According to another preferred embodiment, the second composition comprising an enzyme with cellulase activity comprises a plant powder or plant extract, which is preferably in pure form or dispersed or dissolved in a fluid medium. The enzyme with cellulase activity can also be in dissolved form or in the form of a gel. The enzyme from a natural source has the advantage of sustainability.According to a further preferred embodiment, the plant powder or plant extract is selected from the group consisting of Cassia Auriculata leaf powder, Cassia Obovata leaf powder, Indigofera Tinctoria leaf powder, Lawsonia Inermis leaf powder, Juglans Nigra shell powder (black walnut powder), Punica Granatum shell powder (pomegranate fruit shell powder), Uncaria Gambir leaf or twig powder, Terminalia Chebula powder (haritaki powder), Jacat Curcas leaf powder, Quercus infectoria gallnut powder, Bengal quince powder, Rheum Emodi root powder, Adhatoda Vasica leaf powder, Aloe Barbadensis leaf powder, Brazilwood powder, Pernambuco wood powder, Nicaragua wood powder, Cesalpinia sappan wood powder, Cordia Dichotoma leaf powder, Amla fruit powder, Bhringaraj leaf powder, Neem tree leaf powder, Eucalyptus Globulus leaf powder, Chamomile flower powder and Emblica Officinalis fruit powder.Plant parts of the above plants serve as a source for obtaining enzymes which are used in the second composition of the cosmetic agent according to the invention.

[0024] According to a preferred embodiment, the first composition and / or the second composition further contains a thickener.

[0025] According to the invention, the first composition and / or the second composition contains at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners, which are preferably selected from polysaccharides that may be chemically and / or physically modified. Compounds from the group of polysaccharides are particularly preferred as hydrophilic thickeners according to the invention, since the basic structures of the polysaccharides are of natural origin and biodegradable. Preferred hydrophilic polysaccharide thickeners are selected from celluloses, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, alginic acids (and their corresponding physiologically acceptable salts, the alginates), agar agar (with the polysaccharide agarose present in agar agar as the main component), starch fractions and starch derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, pectins, dextrans, sclerotium gum and guar gum and mixtures thereof.Cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols and cellulose esters preferred according to the invention are selected from methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0026] In preferred embodiments, xanthan gum is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp. In further preferred embodiments, sclerotium gum is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp. Alginic acids (and their corresponding physiologically acceptable salts, the alginates) can also be included as the sole hydrophilic thickener in a preferred embodiment. A combination of at least two of these three thickeners in various ratios is particularly preferred.

[0027] Thickeners that do not consist of chemically and / or physically modified polysaccharides are also suitable for the invention. This includes any thickeners made from polymers of acrylic acid (carbomer / polyacrylic acid). Polyacrylic acids are available in various degrees of polymerization, which are used alone or in combination with plant-based thickeners depending on the desired viscosity.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is a hydrophilic thickener selected from one or more non-natural and / or one or more natural thickeners. More preferably, the natural thickener is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides or clay minerals, even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cellulose, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, alginates, sclerotium gum, guar derivatives, karaya gum, tragacanth, tara gum, gellan gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, pectins, dextrans, amyloses, amylopectins, dextrins, bentonite, and hydrophobically modified silicon dioxide.Alternatively or in addition to the natural thickeners, the non-natural thickener is preferably a thickener based on polyacrylic acid, polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, polyurethanes, styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers, polyethylene glycols, or hydrophobically modified polyethers. Alternatively, one of the non-natural thickeners can be combined with a natural thickener. However, the first composition and / or the second composition preferably contains one or more natural thickeners.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment, the first composition and / or the second composition further contains a preservative.

[0030] According to the invention, the first composition and / or the second composition particularly preferably contain, independently of one another, at least one organic solvent containing a phenyl group in the molecule. This solvent is preferably selected from phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Surprisingly, it was found that such aromatic solvents can have a positive effect on the dyeing results of the dyeing process according to the invention; this was observed in particular when the cosmetic product contains such an aromatic solvent.

[0032] The object underlying the invention is achieved by the subject matter of claim 9. A second subject matter of the invention is therefore a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which the first composition and second composition of the cosmetic agent according to the invention are mixed to form a coloring composition, the coloring composition is applied to the hair, and the coloring composition is rinsed out after a contact time. The method according to the invention enables coloring based on natural henna, whereby the method according to the invention brings significant simplifications compared to the conventional coloring method with henna powder. With the help of various ingredients, properties can be adjusted in such a way that the coloring is comfortable for the consumer.

[0033] According to a preferred method, the coloring composition is allowed to stand for 0 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes to 20 minutes, before being applied to the hair. This allows the coloring composition the time it needs to deglycosylate the lawsone, without the colorant losing its effectiveness.

[0034] According to another preferred embodiment, the exposure time is 15 minutes to 90 minutes, preferably 20 minutes to 60 minutes, more preferably 25 minutes to 45 minutes. The advantage of the method according to the invention is also that it can be carried out more quickly than conventional dyeing methods with henna.

[0035] Of course, features that are only disclosed in connection with the cosmetic product described here can serve as features for the method described here.

[0036] In particular, particularly preferred embodiments according to the invention comprise at least one of the following embodiments A) to F):

[0037] A)

[0038] A cosmetic agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or glycosylated lawsone together with its derivatives, and wherein the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with cellulase activity. B)

[0039] Cosmetic agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives and wherein the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with C 11 u lase activity, wherein the enzyme with C 11 u lase activity is a hydrolase.

[0040] C)

[0041] Cosmetic agent for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives and wherein the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with Ce II u lase activity, wherein the enzyme with Ce II u lase activity is selected from the group consisting of a plant-derived cellulase, a cellulase obtained from a bacterium or a protist, and a biotechnologically produced enzyme.

[0042] D)

[0043] Cosmetic agent for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or derivatives thereof and wherein the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with Ce 11 u lase activity, wherein the glycosylated lawsone or derivatives thereof are obtained from the extract from the extraction of dried henna powder with a polar solvent.

[0044] E)

[0045] Cosmetic agent for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, the first composition comprising glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives and the second composition comprising at least one enzyme with Ce 11 u lase activity, the glycosylated lawsone being obtained from dried henna powder which is subjected to a step of inhibiting or deactivating its own enzymes, the inhibition preferably being carried out by mixing the dried henna powder with a hot aqueous composition or hot water at temperatures between 90°C and 100°C.

[0046] F)

[0047] A cosmetic agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives and wherein the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with cellulase activity obtained from a plant powder or plant extract, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of Cassia Auriculata leaf powder, Cassia Obovata leaf powder, Indigofera Tinctoria leaf powder, Lawsonia Inermis leaf powder, Juglans Nigra shell powder (black walnut powder), Punica Granatum shell powder (pomegranate fruit shell powder), Uncaria Gambir leaf or twig powder, Terminalia Chebula powder (haritaki powder), Jacat Curcas leaf powder, Quercus infectoria gallnut powder, Bengal quince powder, Rheum Emodi root powder, Adhatoda Vasica leaf powder, Aloe Barbadensis leaf powder, Brazilwood powder, Pernambuco wood powder,Nicaragua wood powder, Cesalpinia sappan wood powder, Cordia Dichotoma leaf powder, Amla fruit powder, Bhringaraj leaf powder, Neem tree leaf powder, Eucalyptus globulus leaf powder, Chamomile flower powder and Emblica officinalis fruit powder.

[0048] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way. Examples

[0049] In a first part of the examples, it is demonstrated that henna powder as a natural raw material can be treated with a precursor of the henna dye in such a way that the henna's own enzymes can be separated from the precursor, whereby the composition comprising the precursor of the henna dye cannot dye keratin fibers without enzymes.

[0050] 15 g of henna are extracted with a volume of 700 mL of ethanol for at least 5, preferably 9-12 cycles, until the extract collected in the Soxhlet apparatus has little or no green color. Evaporation of the product's solvent results in a solid, dark green extract that is very stable and can be incorporated into an aqueous system in a second step. Aqueous solutions, creams, or gel bases are suitable for this purpose.

[0051] Table 1: Example formulation for a henna extract gel

[0052] Fractionation allows the extract to be further separated into its individual components so that glycosylated lawsone can be isolated and further processed.

[0053] Coloring with a gel (10 g gel per strand) containing 10% henna extract with glycosylated lawsone results in the color shown in Table 1. The characteristic lawsone color is absent because only glycosylated lawsone and its derivatives are present in the gel, which in turn are unable to color the hair fiber orange. In contrast to free, oxidized lawsone, glycosylated lawsone is stable for several months in aqueous formulations that do not contain hydrolases.

[0054] Table 2: Color result of dyeing henna extract gel on white buffalo hair

[0055] N=5, SD=standard deviation, AE values ​​refer to the Lab values ​​of the untreated buffalo hair

[0056] The henna powder, from which the glycosylated lawsone was extracted using ethanol, contains hydrolases temporarily inhibited by ethanol. This powder can be dried, the solvent evaporated, and stored stably for extended periods. The comparatively high storage stability in an anhydrous system allows for versatile further use of the henna powder. The hydrolases are protected from protease activity in the dry state and can be activated at any time by adding water.

[0057] The lawsone-free henna powder can also be subjected to further extraction after drying so that hydrolases, polyphenols and other plant substances can be isolated and further processed.

[0058] The following examples demonstrate that a cosmetic 2-component composition, in which component 1 contains the glycosylated lawsone but no active enzymes and component 2 contains active enzymes, produces beneficial hair coloring.

[0059] As already described, thermal denaturation of enzymes in a glycosylated lawsone-containing component enables the stabilization of the lawsone. Denaturing the henna's own enzymes thus enables the incorporation and stabilization of glycosylated lawsone derivatives into aqueous formulations. Aqueous formulations here include gels, solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, etc.

[0060] The 2-component composition includes:

[0061] Component 1: Formulation containing concentrated, enzyme-deactivated henna with glycosylated lawsone and derivatives

[0062] Component 2: Formulation containing one or more biocatalysts capable of cleaving the sugar residues from glycosylated lawsone.

[0063] The enzyme-deactivated henna in component 1 is prepared as follows:

[0064] To denature the hydrolases in henna, pure henna powder is mixed with hot water at 80°C - 100°C, preferably 90-100°C. A 0.1-15% henna solution, preferably a 0.4-5% solution, is prepared, cooled to room temperature, and centrifuged.

[0065] The supernatant solution (pH 3-8) can be used as a staining medium, or concentrated and processed into a homogeneous gel with natural thickeners and preservatives.

[0066] Table 3:

[0067] Glycosylated lawsone derivatives do not have the characteristic henna color and do not dye hair orange. Table 4:

[0068] N=5, SD=standard deviation, AE values ​​refer to the Lab values ​​of the untreated buffalo hair

[0069] The enzyme-deactivated henna solution can also be separated from the solvent (before and after filtration of solids and cell material) and dried. The dry henna powder no longer contains any active enzymes, can be stored for extended periods, and can be reabsorbed into aqueous solutions or systems for further processing.

[0070] Component 2 contains a biocatalyst, i.e., enzymes that can hydrolyze the glycosylated lawsone, releasing hydrolawsone and oxidizing it to active lawsone. Component 2 can be used in the form of various plant-based raw materials and / or enzymes and formulations; the prerequisite is the presence of one or more enzymes that cleave ß-l-4-glycosidic bonds.

[0071] 1. Component 2 can be pure henna powder, which is mixed with component 1 0-30 minutes, preferably 10-20 minutes, before application and dyed for 15-60 minutes, preferably 20-45 minutes. 10 g of gel per 1 g of hair can be combined with 0.1-1 g of pure henna powder as a biocatalyst.

[0072] 2. Component 2 can be another plant powder or extract containing naturally occurring biocatalysts / enzymes that can cleave ß-l-4-glycosidic bonds. These include plants such as black walnut, various dyewoods, indigo, etc. The powder is mixed with component 1 0-30 minutes, preferably 10-20 minutes, before application and dyed for 15-60 minutes, preferably 20-45 minutes. 10 g of gel per 1 g of hair can be combined with 0.1-1 g of plant powder or extract.

[0073] Table 5:

[0074] N=5, SD=standard deviation, AE values ​​refer to the Lab values ​​of the untreated buffalo hair

[0075] 3. Component 2 can also be an enzyme solution, which is available as a liquid additive or as a gel that is mixed with Component 1 0-30 minutes, preferably 10-20 minutes, before application. Depending on the enzyme concentration in the solution / gel, different amounts can be added. As an example, the coloring on buffalo hair is shown with 10 g of enzyme-deactivated Hennagel and various amounts of cellulase solution per 1 g of strand.

[0076] Table 6:

[0077] N=5, SD=standard deviation, AE values ​​refer to the Lab values ​​of the untreated buffalo hair

Claims

Claims 1. Cosmetic agent for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising two separate compositions, wherein the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives and wherein the second composition comprises at least one enzyme with cellulase activity.

2. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the enzyme with cellulase activity is a hydrolase, preferably a cellulase or protease, or wherein the hydrolase preferably has beta-glucosidase activity and / or endoglucanase activity, and / or is selected from the group consisting of a plant-derived cellulase, a cellulase obtained from a bacterium or a protist, and a biotechnologically produced enzyme.

3. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives obtained from the extract from the extraction of dried henna powder with a polar solvent, preferably an alcohol, more preferably ethanol, or obtained from dried henna powder subjected to a step of inhibiting or deactivating its own enzymes, wherein preferably the inhibition is carried out by mixing the dried henna powder with a hot aqueous composition or hot water, more preferably at temperatures above 80°C, even more preferably between 85°C and 120°C, most preferably between 90°C and 100°C; and / or wherein preferably the first composition comprises glycosylated lawsone or its derivatives in an amount of 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 5% by weight., most preferably 0.4 wt% to 1.4 wt%. Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition is water-based, preferably an aqueous solution or a gel, or characterized in that the first composition is an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion. Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the enzyme with cellulase activity is obtained from the raffinate from the extraction of dried henna powder with a polar solvent, preferably an alcohol, more preferably ethanol.Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprising an enzyme with cellulase activity comprises a plant powder or plant extract, which is preferably in pure form or dispersed or dissolved in a fluid medium, and / or characterized in that the enzyme with cellulase activity is in dissolved form or in the form of a gel.Cosmetic agent according to claim 6, characterized in that the plant powder or plant extract is selected from the group consisting of Cassia Auriculata leaf powder, Cassia Obovata leaf powder, Indigofera Tinctoria leaf powder, Lawsonia Inermis leaf powder, Juglans Nigra shell powder (black walnut powder), Punica Granatum shell powder (pomegranate fruit shell powder), Uncaria Gambir leaf or twig powder, Terminalia Chebula powder (haritaki powder), Jacat Curcas leaf powder, Quercus infectoria gallnut powder, Bengal quince powder, Rheum Emodi root powder, Adhatoda Vasica leaf powder, Aloe Barbadensis leaf powder, Brazilwood powder, Pernambuco wood powder, Nicaragua wood powder, Cesalpinia sappan wood powder, Cordia Dichotoma leaf powder, Amla fruit powder, Bhringaraj leaf powder, Neem tree leaf powder, Eucalyptus Globulus leaf powder, Chamomile flower powder and Emblica Officinalis fruit powder. Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition and / or second composition further contains a thickener, which is preferably a non-natural or natural thickener, wherein the natural thickener is more preferably selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides or clay minerals, even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cellulose, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, alginates, sclerotium gum, guar derivatives, karaya gum, tragacanth, tara gum, gellan, carrageenan, locust bean gum, pectins, dextrans, amyloses, amylopectins, dextrins, bentonite, and hydrophobically modified silicon dioxide, wherein the natural thickener is most preferably selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, sclerotium gum and alginic acid or salts thereof;or more preferably, the non-natural thickener is a thickener based on polyacrylic acid, polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, polyurethanes, styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers, polyethylene glycols, hydrophobically modified polyethers; and / or further contains a preservative, wherein the preservative is preferably selected from the group consisting of 2-phenoxyethanol, methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol; 1-Phenoxypropan-2-ol, Isopropanol, Ethanol, Zinkpyrithion, Benzoesäure, Salicylsäure, Sorbinsäure, Ameisensäure, Propionsäure, 2-Hydroxydiphenyl, 4-Hydroxyben- zoesäure, Dehydracetsäure, Dibromhexamidin, 10-Undecylensäure, Hexetidinum, Trichlorcarban, Triclosanum, 4-Chlor- 3,4-dimethylphenol, Imidazolidinylharnstoff, Hexamethylentetramin, l-(4-Chlorphenoxy)-l-(imidazol-l-yl)-3,3-dimethyl-2-buta- non, l,3-Bis-(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethyl-2,4imidazolidindion, l-Hydroxy-4- methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-pyridon, Bromchlorophen, 3-Methyl-4-(l- methylethyl)phenol, 5-Chlor-2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolon, 2-Benzyl-4-chlorphenol, 2-Chloracetamid, Chlorhexidin, 4,4-Dimethyl-l ,3-oxazolidin, l-Phenoxy-propan-2-ol, Hexamidinum, 5-Ethyl-l-aza-3,7-dioxabicyclo-[3.3.0]-octan, Chlorphenesin, Natrium- hydroxymethyl-aminoacetat, Benzylhemiformal, 3-lod-2-propinyl-butylcarbamat, Methylisothiazolinone and ethyl lauroyl arginate, wherein the preservative is particularly preferably phenoxyethanol or benzyl alcohol. A method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which the first composition and second composition of the cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 are mixed to form a coloring composition, the coloring composition is applied to the hair, and the coloring composition is rinsed out after a contact time. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that the coloring composition is allowed to stand for 0 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes to 20 minutes, before the coloring composition is applied to the hair; and / or characterized in that the contact time is 15 minutes to 90 minutes, preferably 20 minutes to 60 minutes, more preferably 25 minutes to 45 minutes.

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