Hair care composition

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic hair-care composition in the form of an emulsion suitable for topical application, which is free of silicones, and comprises an emulsifying system based on hydrogenated lecithin and a co-emulsifier, a gelling agent and a fatty alcohol. This composition, which is respectful of hair fibers, is particularly effective for hydrating the latter and protecting same from external aggressions.

Description

[0001] HAIR COMPOSITION

[0002] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition of the hair type, i.e. intended for the care of the hair and / or scalp, by topical application. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of such a composition for the care of the hair and / or scalp. The invention further relates to a method for cosmetic care of the hair and / or scalp using such a composition.

[0003] There are many types of hair care products, such as conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, or serums. These products can be in the form of gels, hair lotions, thicker or thinner care creams, etc.

[0004] Hair is composed of 95% keratin, a fibrous protein. Keratin is insoluble in water, thus ensuring the hair's impermeability and resulting protection. The hair structure is divided into three distinct parts:

[0005] - the pith or medulla, central part of the stem, composed of an amorphous, soft and fatty substance;

[0006] - the cuticle, a thin outer protective layer which contains the nourishing part essential for the development of the hair, highly keratinized, composed of scale-shaped cells which overlap one another;

[0007] - the cortex, the main component of hair, where long chains of keratin are found, which give hair its elasticity, suppleness and strength. The cells of the cortex are held together by an intercellular cement rich in lipids and proteins.

[0008] Keratin has a certain affinity for water. At saturation, the hair absorbs approximately 30 to 40% of its weight in water. The absorption rate depends on the relative humidity of the surrounding environment and affects the styling of the hair. Indeed, the physical properties of keratin fibers, such as their length and / or diameter, are modified by the presence of water.

[0009] Hair is permeable to water in both vapor and liquid forms. Water binds to keratin by creating hydrogen bonds. Water absorption, through the cuticle and then the cortex, causes the hair to swell rather than lengthen. Thermal balance is also a factor; an elevation accelerates water penetration and therefore hair hydration.

[0010] The cuticular surface, relatively permeable to small molecules in the external environment, is called porous. If it remains intact, it acts as a barrier, but only for macromolecules and not for water.

[0011] Dry hair is recognizable by its overall dull appearance and rough feel. Dry hair, also known as dehydrated, is characterized by a dull, brittle, frizzy appearance that swells easily upon contact with humidity. Its overall appearance appears unstructured, and it is often difficult to style and position dry hair. Dry hair results from insufficient sebum production by the sebaceous glands and a lack of water in the hydrolipidic film. The latter protects the scalp and spreads over the hair, contributing to its lubrication. Dryness and dehydration of the scalp and hair then prevent any protection and lubrication. Thus, the hair shaft undergoes an alteration, first at the cuticle and then inside the fiber.This degradation of the stem is manifested by a modification of the shape and position of the scales which lift, a progressive disappearance of the cuticle, then an attack on the cortical keratin which loses its elasticity.

[0012] Dry hair can be constitutional, due to insufficient sebaceous secretion, but it can also have been dried out as a result of various attacks.

[0013] With age, the phenomenon increases.

[0014] Constitutional causes of dry hair include hereditary causes, such as woolly hair syndrome, trichothiodystrophy, uncombable hair syndrome, hereditary frizzy hair, and trichorrhexis nodosa. Other endogenous causes of dry hair include thyroid dysfunction such as hypothyroidism or pituitary insufficiency, which can cause hyposeborrhea, or menopause, which can cause hair fragility and dryness due to a decrease in sebaceous secretion. However, exogenous causes are the majority, as hair can become dry as a result of various aggressions.

[0015] Environmental conditions that can be aggressive, such as rain, wind, sun, sudden changes in temperature and / or humidity, sea salt, chlorine or salt from swimming pools, pollution and tobacco, can damage the structure of the hair. Harsh chemical treatments, such as shampoos, cosmetic makeup, coloring, bleaching, perming and / or styling products, and physical treatments such as heat from hair dryers and straighteners, friction during brushing, also damage the hair. In addition, biological aggressions such as by bacteria and fungi, through the oxidative stress they cause, can also damage the hair.

[0016] Thus, these conditions and / or aggressive agents alter the hair, particularly at the cuticle level, to the point of lifting the scales. The hair is then weakened. Over time and / or depending on the repetition and / or intensity of the attacks, the scales detach from the surface of the hair. When damaged, they lose their structure and / or their visual and / or biomechanical properties. Thus, damaged hair in particular is dry, rough and therefore less soft, difficult to style and shape compared to undamaged hair, and it is notably brittle and split. This loss of surface quality of the hair is visible and unsightly. The hair also reflects less light, and is therefore visibly less shiny and less luminous.

[0017] In normal hair, i.e., hair that is not dry, a decrease in the number of layers of cuticular scales is observed from the root to the tip. These scales, which appear uniform at the root, become eroded at the tip, with serrated edges, and detach from the shaft. In long hair, the cuticle often disappears at the tip, exposing the cortex. The hair then becomes affected by swallowtail fractures, more commonly called split ends, and is also considered damaged.

[0018] Cosmetic approaches to hair care, particularly dry and / or damaged hair, therefore consist of protecting and strengthening the structure of the hair, moisturizing it to restore its integrity and / or visual properties, such as softness and / or silkiness, shine and / or luster, and / or biomechanical properties, such as physical resistance, heat resistance, vitality and / or strength, as well as facilitating styling and / or shaping.

[0019] For this purpose, many hair care compositions proposed by the prior art comprise silicones, which are used as hydrophobic conditioning and film-forming agents. Silicones provide in particular a sliding effect promoting protection of the hair fibers, as well as a good distribution of the compositions containing them over the area of ​​application, in particular over the length of the hair. Extracts from the GNPD Mintel database no. 9502692, no. 8505031 and no. 8331765 describe such hair care compositions based on silicones (dimethicone). Documents US 11529370, WO 2019 / 231050 and US 2020 / 121722 describe a skin care composition based on silicone (phenyl trimethicone), this composition not being suitable for hair use.

[0020] However, silicones have the disadvantage of loading and weighing down the hair, which leads to the phenomenon commonly called the "build-up effect", i.e. hair that quickly becomes greasy and the impression of poorly rinsed strands. In addition, it has been discovered in recent years that silicones have the disadvantage of suffocating the hair, and consequently damaging it, so much so that their use in hair cosmetic compositions has become undesirable. Finally, silicones are also criticized for their environmental impact.

[0021] GNPD Mintel database extracts no. 10598746 and no. 10551190 describe silicone-free hair care compositions based on hydrogenated lecithin and, respectively, arachidyl glucoside or ascorbyl glucoside.

[0022] CN 109481383 describes a sunscreen composition, not suitable for hair use, free of silicone and comprising hydrogenated lecithin and cetearyl glucoside. US 2022 / 296497 also describes a cosmetic composition with an anti-aging effect, not suitable for hair use, free of silicone and comprising hydrogenated lecithin and cetearyl glucoside.

[0023] Document KR 20200102950 describes a cosmetic composition, for which no hair application is described or suggested, which is free of silicone and which contains hydrogenated lecithin and sodium stearoyl glutamate. This document recommends using the latter ingredient at a concentration of less than or equal to 0.15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] More generally, many ingredients or formulations aimed at protecting hair against aggression, particularly through hydration, already exist in cosmetics, but there is a constant need for alternatives to overcome formulation constraints and offer varied solutions to the cosmetics market in terms of mode of action, effectiveness and sensoriality, without using silicones.

[0025] The present invention aims to propose such a solution, and to provide a hair cosmetic composition making it possible to obtain all the expected benefits of hair care, and in particular presenting, despite the absence of silicones, good hair protection performance, as well as good sensoriality.

[0026] The invention further aims to ensure that such properties can be obtained without using controversial substances.

[0027] It has now been discovered by the present inventors that, surprisingly, compositions meeting particular characteristics, comprising in particular a combination of hydrogenated lecithin, a co-emulsifier, a gelling agent and a fatty alcohol, make it possible to achieve the objectives mentioned above, even though they are free of silicones. Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition suitable for topical application, in particular to the hair and / or the scalp, for the care, and in particular the hydration and protection, of the hair and / or the scalp. This composition is in the form of an emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase representing from 60 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and a fatty phase representing from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It comprises:

[0028] - an emulsifying system consisting of: 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one hydrogenated lecithin, and 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one co-emulsifier chosen from sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride,

[0029] - at least one gelling agent selected from the group consisting of alginates, carrageenans, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, acrylates, and mixtures thereof,

[0030] - at least one fatty alcohol chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] It is also silicone-free.

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the term silicone, or polysiloxane, conventionally in itself, denotes any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear and / or cyclic, branched and / or crosslinked structure, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms, hydrocarbon radicals, optionally substituted, in particular by hydroxyl groups, being directly linked by a carbon atom to these silicon atoms. Dimethicone, trimethicone and their derivatives are examples of silicones which are lacking in the composition according to the invention. In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted therefor. Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise:

[0033] - one or more gelling agents; chosen from the list above; it may further comprise one or more gelling agents other than those in this list but, in preferred embodiments of the invention, it is free of them; - and / or one or more fatty alcohols chosen from the list above; it may further comprise one or more fatty alcohols other than those in this list but, in preferred embodiments of the invention, it is free of them;

[0034] - within the emulsifying system, one or more hydrogenated lecithins and / or one or more co-emulsifiers chosen from the list above; when the emulsifying system contains a mixture of several hydrogenated lecithins, this mixture is contained in the composition in a concentration of 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; when it contains a mixture of several co-emulsifiers chosen from sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, this mixture is also contained in the composition in a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain, in addition to the emulsifying system as defined above, other substances with an emulsifying or surfactant effect. It is preferably free of them, or contains less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably of the type specifically intended for the care of the hair and / or scalp, as opposed to washing the latter. It is thus preferably free of substances with washing and / or foaming properties, such as soaps, i.e. products resulting from a saponification reaction, or syndets, synthetic surfactants, and, more generally, of any substance with surfactant properties.

[0036] As explained above, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention has very good hair hydration performance, as well as hair protection against external aggressions. This performance is exerted in particular by the protection of the structure, the visual properties, that is to say the appearance, and the biomechanical properties of the hair, in particular against mechanical, biological, chemical and environmental aggressions. These beneficial effects are exerted both on dry hair and on damaged hair or dry and damaged hair. The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular advantageously to maintain and / or increase the vitality of the hair, as well as to tighten the scales thereof.

[0037] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, i.e. comprising an oily phase kept homogeneously dispersed in an aqueous phase, this dispersion being ensured by the emulsifying system contained in the composition.

[0038] In particular embodiments of the invention, the aqueous phase represents from 65 to 99%, from 70 to 99%, from 75 to 99%, from 80 to 99%, from 85 to 99%, from 60 to 95%, from 65 to 95%, from 70 to 95%, from 75 to 95%, from 80 to 95%, from 85 to 95%, from 60 to 90%, from 65 to 90%, from 70 to 90%, from 75 to 90%, from 80 to 90%, or from 85 to 90%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The oily phase preferably represents from 1 to 35%, from 1 to 30%, from 1 to 25%, from 1 to 20%, from 1 to 15%, from 5 to 40%, from 5 to 35%, from 5 to 30%, from 5 to 25%, from 5 to 20%, from 5 to 15%, from 10 to 40%, from 10 to 35%, from 10 to 30%, from 10 to 25%, from 10 to 20%, or from 10 to 15%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] The cosmetic hair composition according to the invention preferably comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least 60% by weight of water, more preferably at least 70% by weight of water, preferably at least 75% by weight of water, more preferably at least 80% by weight of water, and even at least 85% by weight of water.

[0041] According to the present invention, the emulsifying system consists of one or more hydrogenated lecithins and one or more co-emulsifiers chosen from sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride.

[0042] Hydrogenated lecithins are typically obtained by controlled hydrogenation of non-hydrogenated lecithins. The non-hydrogenated lecithins from which the hydrogenated lecithins usable according to the invention are produced may originate from animal or plant sources, for example soybeans, sunflowers, eggs and / or mixtures thereof. The glycerophospholipids included, in high proportion, in such lecithins are mainly phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine. Preferably, the non-hydrogenated lecithins originate from plant sources, and in particular soybeans.

[0043] Lecithins are usually supplied dissolved in fatty acids, triglycerides, or other solvents, or as powders or cakes.

[0044] As hydrogenated lecithins which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of that which is marketed under the name Emulmetik® 320 IP from the supplier Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0045] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of hydrogenated lecithin(s) in the composition is between 0.2 and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight and even more preferably between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the emulsifying system contains, as a co-emulsifier, at least sodium stearoyl glutamate. Preferably, sodium stearoyl glutamate is the only co-emulsifier contained in the emulsifying system of the composition.

[0047] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of the composition of co-emulsifiers chosen from sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride is between 0.5 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention contains, as co-emulsifiers, sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate, in a total concentration of between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In particular alternative embodiments of the invention, the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention contains, as co-emulsifiers, sodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, in a total concentration of between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention contains, as the only co-emulsifier chosen from the aforementioned list, sodium stearoyl glutamate, in a concentration of between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise at least one alkyl polyglucoside. Preferably, it contains at least one alkyl polyglucoside mixed with sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0050] The content of alkyl polyglucoside(s) in the composition according to the invention may in particular be between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] As alkyl polyglucosides which may be contained in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of those whose alkyl radical comprises from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, for example the compounds with INCI names: cetearyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, coco glucoside and C12-C20 alkyl glucoside.

[0052] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more gelling agents other than gelling agents chosen from alginates, carrageenans, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, acrylates and gums, in particular xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum and Tamarindus indica seed gum. Preferably, it does not contain any gelling agents other than those listed above.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least one gelling agent chosen from the group consisting of xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenans, gellan gum, diutan gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, or any of their mixtures.

[0054] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of gelling agent(s) in the composition is between 0.3 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.4 and 4% by weight, preferentially between 0.5 and 2% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, or between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] The composition according to the invention contains at least one fatty alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, or any of their mixtures.

[0056] It may further contain other fatty alcohols, such as those having a lipophilic group with a carbon chain of more than 8 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and sub-ranges included. The carbon chain of the fatty alcohol(s) may thus, for example, contain from 10 to 20 carbon atoms or from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers, such as those having a hydroxyl group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 12 to 14 carbon atoms. The carbon chain is preferably saturated, for example of the stearyl, lauryl, cetyl or cetearyl type; it may otherwise be unsaturated, for example of the oleyl type.Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol(s) include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of fatty alcohol(s), preferably the total content of fatty alcohol(s) chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, is between 1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight, preferentially between 1 and 10% by weight and even more preferentially between 2 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of conditioning agent. In particularly preferred alternative embodiments of the invention, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention contains at least one conditioning agent. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "conditioning agent" means an agent which makes it possible to provide more glide on the hair fiber and therefore to facilitate detangling and make the hair softer, silkier, shinier and more coated.

[0059] It has in particular been discovered by the present inventors that, quite surprisingly, in addition to providing slip to the hair fibers, the presence of a conditioning agent in the composition increases the protective effect on these fibers conferred by the emulsifying system of the composition, and in particular of the hydrogenated lecithin(s). This synergistic effect is furthermore all the more important when the conditioning agent is erythritol, arginine, the sodium salts of pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, or any of their mixtures.

[0060] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain any conventional conditioning agent in itself. Different classes of agents can fulfill this function.

[0061] Cationic surfactants may, for example, have the function of a conditioning agent according to the invention. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, at least one cationic surfactant used in the composition is an amidoamine, in particular chosen from brassicamido propyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and behenamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0062] Quaternary ammoniums may also have the function of a conditioning agent according to the invention. In particular embodiments of the invention, at least one quaternary ammonium used in the composition is chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride. Preferably, each quaternary ammonium used in the composition has a low environmental impact, such as hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride.

[0063] One or more conditioning agents not belonging to the category of cationic surfactants or to that of quaternary ammoniums, in particular chosen from isoamyl laurate, lauroyl lysine, erythritol, arginine, glyceryl oleate, for example as sold under the name DUB® OG, polyglyceryl 4 caprate, guar, the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid, or any of their mixtures, may also be used in the composition according to the invention.

[0064] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition contains at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of erythritol, arginine, sodium salts of pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, it does not contain any other conditioning agent.

[0065] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of conditioning agent(s), in particular conditioning agent(s) chosen from the group consisting of erythritol, arginine, sodium salts of pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, is between 0.1 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferentially between 0.5 and 3.5% by weight and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] A particularly preferred conditioning agent within the scope of the invention is guar, preferably contained in the composition in a content of between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition contains at least erythritol as a conditioning agent, in particular as the sole conditioning agent, preferably at a concentration of between 0.5 and 5% by weight, in particular between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and sodium stearoyl glutamate as a co-emulsifier, in particular as the sole conditioning agent, preferably at a concentration of between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, in particular between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] In other preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition contains at least guar as a conditioning agent, in particular as the sole conditioning agent, preferably at a concentration of between 0.5 and 5% by weight, in particular between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and sodium stearoyl glutamate as a co-emulsifier, in particular as the sole conditioning agent, preferably at a concentration of between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, in particular between 0.5 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably free of sulfates, in order to improve its tolerance.

[0070] It is further preferably also, or otherwise, free of polyethylene glycol. Polyethylene glycol means linear polyethers with a molar mass of less than 20,000 g / mol, manufactured from ethylene glycol monomers.

[0071] Although the use of polyethylene glycols is beneficial for hair fibers, in particular for their hydro-solubilizing, thickening, emulsifying and softening properties, these compounds are described as irritating, and likely to generate discomfort for users when applied topically to the scalp, and criticized at the environmental level, due to their low biodegradability. As indicated above, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention has good performance in terms of hair care, even without containing polyethylene glycols.

[0072] In the present description, the term "free of" is understood to mean that the composition does not contain the ingredient concerned, or that it contains a negligible, non-effective quantity thereof, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] In particular embodiments of the invention, the hair cosmetic composition is free of microplastics.

[0074] The term “microplastic” as used herein refers to microparticles of synthetic polymers, and refers to the definition given in the draft amendment to Annex XVII of REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907 / 2006, D083921 / 01 of 05 September 2022 (“COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) of XXX amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) as regards synthetic polymer microparticles » accessible in particular at the url address: https: / / ec.europa.eu / transparency / comitology-register / screen / documents / 083921 / 1 / consult?lang=en). According to this document, microplastics, or synthetic polymer microparticles, are defined as polymers that are solid and that either are contained in particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of these particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, where at least 1% by weight of these particles meet one of the following conditions: (a) all particle dimensions are 5 mm or less; (b) the length of the particles is 15 mm or less and their length to diameter ratio is greater than 3.The following polymers are excluded from this designation:.

[0075] (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances;

[0076] (b) polymers which are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex [X] of the document;

[0077] (c) polymers that have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex [Y] of the document (solubility test in water at pH 7 with stirring for 24 h at 20 °C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 mL, according to the protocol of Test No. 120 or Test No. 105 of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals); (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure.

[0078] Microparticles of synthetic polymers covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0079] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles with all dimensions less than 5 mm, formed or coated with synthetic solid organic polymer(s) that are insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0080] Thus, in particular, the hair cosmetic composition is preferably free of microplastic polyquaterniums, ingredients used in many hair cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art. It is also preferably free of microplastic acrylates.

[0081] On the other hand, in particular embodiments of the invention, the hair cosmetic composition may comprise one or more non-microplastic acrylates, in particular chosen from the group consisting of (INCI names):

[0082] - Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer,

[0083] - Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer,

[0084] - Sodium Polyacrylate,

[0085] - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer,

[0086] - Acrylates Copolymer,

[0087] - Polyacrylate-13,

[0088] - Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer,

[0089] - Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer,

[0090] - Polyacrylamide,

[0091] - VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, used alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0092] In particular alternative embodiments of the invention, the hair cosmetic composition is free of acrylate-functional compound.

[0093] The cosmetic hair composition according to the invention may further contain one or more active agent(s) for the cosmetic care of the hair and / or scalp, in particular by topical application. Such active agents include soothing agents, such as peony extracts, volume agents, such as flax extracts, moisturizing agents, such as oat extracts, color-enhancing agents, such as pomegranate extracts, color-respecting agents, such as chamomile extracts which respect the color of blond hair, anti-hair loss agents, such as cinchona extracts, sebum-regulating agents, such as nettle extracts, etc.

[0094] It may also contain one or more cosmetic additives commonly used in the art, such as, for example, pigments, dyes, mineral fillers, perfumes, vitamins, natural extracts, preservatives, pH adjusters, etc. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any cosmetic additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0095] Preferably, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain a hair coloring agent.

[0096] It may further contain any cosmetically acceptable excipient. In the present description, cosmetically acceptable means that the excipient is suitable for use by contacting with human and animal cells, in particular skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant odor, color and feel, it does not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from the composition according to the invention.

[0097] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention is in a form suitable for topical application, directly to the hair and / or to the scalp.

[0098] It can be presented in any conventional form in itself for a hair care composition intended for topical administration, in particular in the form of conditioner, balm, mousse, gel-cream, dispersion, spray, serum, mask or cream, with or without rinsing.

[0099] It is preferably advantageously respectful of hair fibers. The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any method known to those skilled in the art.

[0100] Another aspect of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hair cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care of the hair and / or the scalp.

[0101] This use includes in particular the application of the composition topically to the hair and / or the scalp.

[0102] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied to the scalp and / or hair as often as necessary, in particular daily, for example after shampooing or conditioner. It can, for example, be applied to dry hair for touch-ups for styling.

[0103] The application of the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention may not be followed by rinsing.

[0104] In alternative embodiments of the invention, the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the composition, after a possible exposure time which may be from a few seconds to 5 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes and even more preferably from 2 to 3 minutes.

[0105] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention can in particular be used to moisturize and / or protect the hair, in particular against heat, and / or mechanical, biological, chemical and / or environmental attacks.

[0106] Advantageously, hair protection concerns its protection when it is subjected to aggression, alterations, degradation, damage or physical or mechanical constraints, in particular linked to brushing, straightening, drying, pulling, combing, curling, etc.

[0107] Advantageously, hair protection concerns its protection against ultraviolet (UV) rays, i.e. when it is weakened by UV rays. Advantageously, hair protection concerns its thermoprotection, i.e. its protection when it is subjected to heat due to straightening and / or drying the hair.

[0108] More beneficially, hair protection refers to protecting hair when subjected to the heat of a straightener.

[0109] Advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention protects the hair from heat between 150 and 230°C.

[0110] More advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention protects the hair from heat between 170 and 230°C.

[0111] Even more advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention protects the hair from heat between 180 and 230°C.

[0112] Very advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition according to the invention protects the hair from heat reaching approximately 230°C.

[0113] Equally beneficial, hair protection concerns its protection when subjected to chemical aggressions such as coloring and / or bleaching.

[0114] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention can in particular be used to protect the structure, visual properties and / or biomechanical properties of the hair against mechanical, biological, chemical and / or environmental attacks.

[0115] Advantageously, the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention is to prevent and / or reduce and / or eliminate unsightly disorders due to chemical, biological, physical, mechanical and / or environmental attacks on the hair, preferably to maintain and / or increase the softness and / or silky appearance of the hair, and / or to beautify the hair, in particular to make it shinier and / or improve its shine, and / or to improve and / or facilitate its shaping and / or styling, which in particular has the consequence of maintaining and / or increasing its resistance, its vitality and / or its strength.

[0116] Hair protection can be assessed using existing techniques in the field. Conventional methods for measuring a protective effect measure the ability of a formulation to restore the visual, structural and / or functional condition of damaged hair, compared with the condition of undamaged hair.

[0117] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for the care and / or treatment of dry hair and / or damaged hair and / or hair exposed to physical, mechanical and / or biological and / or chemical and / or environmental aggressions, in particular dry hair.

[0118] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for damaged, dry or normal hair, in particular dull, fine, colored, coarse, flat, lackluster and / or difficult to style and / or shape, and / or which becomes fragile and / or damaged quickly due to its nature, such as curly and / or frizzy and / or white and / or aging hair and / or fine hair.

[0119] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is also suitable for the care of hair which becomes fragile and damaged quickly by its nature, such as dry and / or curly and / or frizzy and / or white and / or aging hair and / or fine hair.

[0120] The hair cosmetic composition according to the invention can in particular be used for:

[0121] - maintain and / or increase hair vitality, and / or tighten hair scales,

[0122] - maintain and / or increase the resistance of the hair and / or strengthen it,

[0123] - and / or maintain and / or increase the shine and / or luster, softness and / or silkiness of the hair, making it easier to style and / or shape.

[0124] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for the hair and / or scalp, comprising the topical application, to the hair and / or scalp, of a cosmetic hair composition according to the invention.

[0125] This method may meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention. In particular, it may comprise the topical application of this composition to the hair and / or the scalp after shampooing, this application possibly being followed by rinsing, after an optional application time.

[0126] In particular embodiments of the invention, this method does not include a rinsing step.

[0127] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in light of the examples of implementation below, provided for purely illustrative purposes and in no way limiting the invention, with the support of figures 1 and 2, in which:

[0128] Figure 1 shows a scanning electron microscopy image of dry human hair fibers damaged by mechanical stress and thermal stress, after water was applied to their surface.

[0129] Figure 2 shows scanning electron microscopy images of dry human hair fibers damaged by mechanical stress and thermal stress, after, in A / 1 application, in B / 6 successive applications, on their surface, of a hair cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention.

[0130] 1 / Example 1 - Composition in accordance with the invention

[0131] A hair cosmetic composition according to the invention (C1), intended to protect the hair, meets the characteristics shown in table 1 below.

[0132] Table 1 - Composition C1 in accordance with the invention

[0133] 2 / Example 2 - Evaluation by scanning electron microscopy of the protective / sheathing effect of hair fibers of different compositions Two objectives are set in this study: firstly, to evaluate the effect of compositions according to the invention adapted to hair care in the protection / sheathing of the hair surface, and secondly, to compare it with those of a hair composition not containing hydrogenated lecithin.

[0134] The test is carried out on strands of dry and damaged human hair. The performance of hair care compositions on the hair surface is evaluated by means of scanning electron microscopy (SEM) analysis.

[0135] Measurements and treatments are carried out under controlled experimental conditions, the temperature is 20 ± 2°C and the humidity is 45 ± 10%.

[0136] Each study is carried out on a series of 5 strands of hair presenting the following characteristics:

[0137] - Weight: 1 g,

[0138] - Length: 20 cm,

[0139] - Condition: dry and damaged by the application of a prior protocol using both mechanical stress (combing) and thermal stress (heating).

[0140] Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) is an electron microscopy technique capable of producing high-resolution images of a sample surface using the principle of electron-matter interaction. In this study, the surface of hair strands was analyzed using a field emission scanning microscope (Model Ultra Plus, manufactured by Zeiss).

[0141] 2.1 / ​​Study of the effect of composition C1

[0142] Three conditions are analyzed:

[0143] - Strand of hair without any treatment (control condition, application of a formulation containing only water on the strand),

[0144] - Strand of hair treated with an application of composition C1,

[0145] - Strand of hair treated with 6 successive applications of composition C1.

[0146] The study is carried out as follows.

[0147] For the condition with a single application of composition C1, the following procedure is applied: holding the hair strand by the crown, apply a quantity of composition C1 (0.25 g of formulation / g of strand) along the entire length, from root to tip. Spread the formulation three times along the entire length, from root to tip, then turn the strand over, and perform the same process on the other side. Then spread the formulation in a "zigzag" motion for 15 seconds on one side, then on the other. Finally, let it air dry.

[0148] For the condition with 6 successive applications of composition C1, the same procedure as before is applied, then it is repeated 2 more times. At the end of the third application, the lock of hair is washed with shampoo and then dried. The same protocol is then repeated, making a total of 6 applications.

[0149] For the 3 conditions tested, the following procedures are carried out:

[0150] - taking a sample of the wick in the half-part between the middle and the tip,

[0151] - preparation of the hair sample for SEM observation, metallization and mounting on a stud,

[0152] - observation of the surface of 20 hairs at the following magnifications: x200 and x500.

[0153] The three conditions are compared with each other. The results obtained are as follows.

[0154] SEM observation of hair strands from the control group (containing only water) shows that 85% of the hair strands have structural damage. In particular, hair cracking is observed in about 50% of cases, as shown by an arrow in Figure 1. Damage such as partial cuticle loss and slight cuticle lifting is also observed.

[0155] Figure 2 shows SEM images obtained for fibers treated with composition C1 according to the invention, respectively for 1 application (in A / ) and 6 applications (in B / ). These fibers are free of cracks. They have a slight deposit of composition on their surface, visible in the images.

[0156] Generally speaking, the implementation of a single application of the composition C1 in accordance with the invention already leads to a reduction in the ratio of damaged hair fibers compared to the control condition. After this single application, 70% of the strands remain damaged. A crack in the fibers is observed in only 35% of cases, this result is 30% lower than that of the control condition.

[0157] The implementation of 6 successive applications of composition C1 leads to an even greater reduction in the ratio of damaged hair fibers compared to the control condition. With this treatment, only 35% of the hair fibers are damaged. Hair cracking is observed in only 20% of cases, this result is 60% lower than that of the control condition. The effects of composition C1 according to the invention are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0158] Table 2 - Protective effect on hair fibers of composition C1 in accordance with the invention

[0159] These results demonstrate that composition C1 according to the invention provides protection to the hair fiber. It appears that the implementation of 6 applications of this composition provides better repair of the hair surface than a single application.

[0160] 2.2 / Comparison between compositions in accordance with the invention and comparative compositions devoid of hydrogenated lecithin The hair cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention C2 and C3, and the comparative compositions not in accordance with the invention Comp2 and Comp3, the compositions of which are indicated in Table 3 below, are tested in this example.

[0161] Table 3 - Characteristics of the tested compositions

[0162] The study procedure is the same as described previously in point 2.1 / . Each composition is applied only once. There are therefore 5 conditions (1 control without treatment and 4 treatment conditions with the four compositions in Table 3). Compositions C2 and Comp2 are analyzed versus the control (application of a formulation composed only of water). Compositions C3 and Comp3 are also analyzed versus the control. The results obtained are as follows.

[0163] Scanning electron microscope observation of hair strands from the control group (application of a formulation containing only water) shows that 73% of hair strands have structural damage, which is divided into 2 types:

[0164] - partial loss of the cuticle, in 63% of cases;

[0165] - a slight lifting of the cuticle in approximately 20% of cases.

[0166] It should be noted that these damages are often associated, that is to say that both types of anomalies are found on the same hair fiber. This means that the percentage of damaged hair is lower than the sum of the different anomalies visualized. The hair care compositions C3 and Comp3, devoid of conditioning agent, exhibit effective protective and sheathing effects on the hair structure compared to the control condition, since no lifting of the cuticle is observed after treatment of the hair strands with these compositions. The hair strands treated with composition C3 exhibit partial loss of the cuticle in only 15% of cases, whereas with composition Comp3, partial loss of the cuticle is observed in 20% of cases. Thus, a higher effectiveness of composition C3 (composition according to the invention) is observed compared to the comparative composition Comp3.

[0167] Hair care compositions C2 and Comp2 are compared with each other and with the control. These two compositions exhibit effective protective and sheathing effects on the hair structure, since no lifting of the cuticle is observed after treatment of the hair strands with these compositions. The hair strands treated with composition Comp2 exhibit partial loss of the cuticle in 15% of cases. Compared to the latter, composition C2 according to the invention displays a more significant effectiveness, since the hair fibers treated with this composition do not exhibit any abnormalities.

[0168] This study demonstrates the effectiveness of the compositions according to the invention in terms of hair protection. These compositions act in particular by reducing cuticle loss and completely preventing the lifting of scales, phenomena which are observed on damaged hair. The compositions according to the invention have in particular a much better protective and coating effect on the hair fiber than similar compositions which do not include hydrogenated lecithin.

[0169] 3 / Example 3 - Evaluation of a hair thickening effect of a composition according to the invention

[0170] This is an ex vivo study conducted on dry and damaged hair after a standard 6-hour bleaching protocol. This hair was purchased from Kerling International.

[0171] The hair mass index (arbitrary unit) is measured using the HairCheck® device. This device measures the cross-section of a strand of hair growing on a specific area. This cross-section varies depending on the quantity of hair and its thickness. This allows us to assess the "redensifying" and revitalizing effect of a treatment on the hair fiber.

[0172] Measurements and treatments are carried out under controlled experimental conditions, the temperature is 20 ± 2°C and the humidity is 45 ± 10%.

[0173] The operating protocol is as follows:

[0174] - from the stock of light-colored hair damaged by bleaching as indicated above, cut 30 braids 1 cm wide and weighing 1.2 g (10 braids per group);

[0175] - pre-wash all the strands as follows: using a clip, group 5 braids together, moisten with tap water; apply 1.5 ml (for 5 braids) of Ducray Extra-Gentle shampoo (0.25 g of shampoo / g of hair) using a syringe (i.e. 0.3 ml of shampoo / 1 cm of braid); wash gently for 1 min while rubbing; rinse the braids in a 2 L beaker of tap water for 30 s; carry out a 2 ème rinse as above;

[0176] - dry with a hair dryer;

[0177] - label the braids using a ballpoint pen on the glued strip.

[0178] Three groups are made:

[0179] - Group 1: control, no treatment,

[0180] - Group 2: the braids are treated with composition C2 of Example 2,

[0181] - Group 3: the braids are treated with the composition Comp2 of Example 2.

[0182] Before applying the composition, measurements of the thickness of the hair shaft are taken, ten measurements along the shaft are made starting from the root, the measurements being spaced approximately 1 cm apart, and the hair mass index corresponding to time T0 (before applying the composition) is determined.

[0183] Using a syringe, each composition is applied at a rate of 0.3 ml per braid (0.25 g of composition / g of hair). To facilitate application, 5 braids are combined to apply 1.5 ml of composition. Using a latex glove, the composition is gently rubbed in for 1 min. The braids are hung on a drying line to dry them without touching them using a hair dryer. Once dried, the braids are left in the open air for 15 min. Then new measurements of the hair mass index are taken, in the same way, using the HairCheck device. The data obtained correspond to time T1 (after 1 application without rinsing).

[0184] Statistical analysis was performed using GraphPad Prism 9 software with an unpaired t-test versus the control condition.

[0185] The results obtained for each of the conditions tested are shown in Table 4 below.

[0186] Table 4 - Average hair mass index (n=50) determined before and after application of hair compositions - NS = Not Significant

[0187] It was observed that, in the control group, the application of water did not induce any protection of the hair, this result was expected.

[0188] The application without rinsing of the composition C2 according to the invention significantly increases the hair mass index (+3.6%) when compared to the basal value; this increase is also statistically significant versus the control group (p < 0.001). The application of the composition Comp2 induces a slight increase in the hair mass index, but this effect does not reach the threshold of significance.

[0189] Thus, it is clearly demonstrated that with a single application, the composition C2 in accordance with the invention significantly induces a sheathing and thickening effect on the hair fiber.

[0190] 4 / Example 4 - Evaluation of the thermal protection of the hair shaft by a composition in accordance with the invention

[0191] Hair has natural biological functions such as thermoregulation, protecting it in particular against exposure to solar radiation. Various hairdressing appliances such as hair dryers, straighteners and some curlers apply heat treatments that alter the integrity of the hair fibers. The proteins in hair fibers, keratins, retain a large amount of water, but above 100°C, the weak bonds break, and from 135°C all the water evaporates. Above 230°C, the helical part of keratin is irreversibly denatured. The average heat of a hair dryer is 90°C, that of a straightener and a curling iron is 210°C. The proteins in the hair shafts are therefore weakened by treatments with these devices.

[0192] The physicochemical properties of hair fibers are the direct result of the arrangement of their structural elements, and more specifically of the proteins that constitute nearly 95% of the weight of the hair fiber. The analysis of the protein content of the hair fiber is relevant to objectify the structural damage caused by external stresses such as ultraviolet rays and heat. Indeed, the more a hair is weakened by stress, the more it will lose proteins under the effect of exposure to ultrasound (França-Stefoni et al., 2015, J. Cosmetic Dermatology vol 14, 204-208). The Lowry method allows to evaluate the loss of proteins by UV-visible spectrophotometry, and has already been described to quantify hair proteins (Da Gama et al., 2017, Hair Care Cosmetics, vol 4, 1-10).

[0193] The aim of this ex vivo study is to evaluate a thermo-protective effect of a composition according to the invention on hair exposed to thermal stress caused by the use of a hair dryer and a straightener at 230°C.

[0194] Two formulas are tested:

[0195] - a composition according to the invention (composition C1 of Example 1),

[0196] - a comparative composition Compl , not in accordance with the invention, commercially available, containing the following ingredients (including a silicone): water, Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, amodimethicone, polyquaternium-37, phenoxyethanol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, tocopherol, sodium hydroxide, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PPG-1 trideceth-6, trideceth-6, behentrimonium chloride, xylose, lactic acid, ethylhexylglycerin, linalool, sorbitan oleate, isopropyl alcohol, cetrimonium chloride, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, PG-propyl silanetriol, resveratrol, benzyl alcohol, limonene, coumarin, potassium sorbate, perfume.

[0197] The protocol implemented is as follows. The hair used for this study was provided by Kerling International. Caucasian hair from different donors is mixed and held together with a glue strip to form strands approximately 20 cm wide and 18 cm long. From each strand, a 1 cm wide strip is cut and treated for each of the conditions studied.

[0198] A 1 cm wide section of hair is wet and wrung out. The test products (compositions C1 or Compl) are applied over the entire length of the section (0.25 g / g of hair). After 5 min of exposure to the product at room temperature, the hair is dried using a hair dryer blowing hot air at 125°C. Once the hair is dry, 50 successive passes of a hair straightener at 230°C are made per section of hair. The hair is then washed with a 1% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution.

[0199] This entire treatment series is repeated 4 times before proceeding to sonication of the hair shaft and quantification of the associated protein loss.

[0200] An untreated control group (hair without any stress or treatment with compositions) and a stressed control group (hair stressed by the heat of the hair dryer and straightener but without any treatment with compositions) are carried out in this study.

[0201] Quantification of protein loss by the Lowry assay is performed as follows. For each experimental condition, 6 samples of 100 mg of hair are placed in a defined volume of water and sonicated in an ultrasonic bath (2 h, 80 kHz). After sonication, the proteins lost from the hair fibers are quantified in the supernatants according to the Lowry method (3 replicates per sample). A standard range of bovine serum albumin (BAS) is used to determine the protein concentration of each sample after measuring the absorbance (optical density at 750 nm) using a spectrophotometer. Statistical analysis is performed using GraphPad Prism 9 software with an unpaired t-test compared to the stressed control condition.

[0202] The results obtained are shown in Table 5 below.

[0203] Table 5 - Protein loss from hair as measured by the Lowry test

[0204] These results highlight that heat stress, due to the use of a hot hair dryer and straightener at 230°C, leads to a significant loss of hair protein. This loss is statistically significantly higher for the stressed control group than for the non-stressed control group. As seen in Table 5, 2.9 mg of protein is lost per gram of hair for the stressed control condition, while only 0.8 mg of protein is lost per gram of hair for the non-stressed control condition. This result is consistent with the lack of integrity of the hair shaft and the weakening of the hair structure observed during heat stress. These results were expected; they validate the test.

[0205] The comparative composition Compl , based on silicone and polyethylene glycol, induces a statistically significant reduction in protein loss by the hair. It is further observed that the composition according to the invention C1 , although devoid of silicone and polyethylene glycol, also significantly reduces the protein loss caused by the thermal stress protocol, and provides a level of protection of the hair fiber almost as high as the composition Compl .

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Hair cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion suitable for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase representing from 60 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and a fatty phase representing from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition being characterized in that it comprises: - an emulsifying system consisting of: 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one hydrogenated lecithin, and 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one co-emulsifier chosen from sodium or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, - at least one gelling agent selected from the group consisting of alginates, carrageenans, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, acrylates, and mixtures thereof, - at least one fatty alcohol chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and in that it is free from silicone.

2. Cosmetic hair composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one conditioning agent chosen from the group consisting of erythritol, arginine, sodium salts of pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic hair composition according to claim 2, in which the total content of conditioning agent(s) is between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, free from polyethylene glycol and / or sulfates.

5. Hair cosmetic composition according to any one of the Claims 1 to 4, comprising at least 80% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the total content of hydrogenated lecithin(s) is between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the total content of gelling agent(s) is between 0.5 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the total content of fatty alcohol(s) is between 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside.

10. Cosmetic hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further containing an active agent for the cosmetic care of the hair and / or the scalp.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, for the care of the hair and / or the scalp.

12. Use according to claim 11, for moisturizing and / or protecting the hair, in particular from heat.

13. Use according to claim 11 or 12, for protecting the structure, visual properties and / or biomechanical properties of hair against mechanical, biological, chemical and / or environmental attacks.

14. Use of any one of claims 11 to 13, for maintaining and / or increasing the vitality of the hair, and / or tightening the hair scales.

15. Use according to any one of claims 11 to 14, wherein the hair is dry hair.

16. Use according to any one of claims 11 to 15, wherein the hair is damaged hair.

17. Use according to any one of claims 11 to 16, according to wherein said composition is applied topically to the hair and / or scalp.

18. Non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for the hair and / or scalp, comprising the topical application of a cosmetic hair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.

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