Ecobiological cosmetic composition capable of promoting skin wound healing

Abstract

The invention relates to an advantageously ecobiological cosmetic composition comprising at least one monosaccharide and polyglutamic acid or one of the salts thereof, and to the use thereof for promoting the healing of a skin wound and / or skin regeneration.

Description

Ecobiological cosmetic composition capable of promoting the healing of skin wounds Field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular cosmetic compositions, advantageously ecobiological, and their uses for promoting the healing of a skin wound and / or skin regeneration. State of the art

[0002] The skin is made up of three overlapping layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis. The epidermis is a multi-stratified epithelium composed primarily of layers of keratinocytes, which represent 90 to 95% of epidermal cells. The epidermis acts as a barrier to combat various physical, chemical, and microbial aggressions from the surrounding environment while limiting transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The dermis is primarily made up of fibroblasts dispersed in the extracellular matrix (ECM). This ECM is composed of a set of polysaccharides (i.e., glycosaminoglycans generally covalently linked to a protein to form proteoglycans) and proteins. The protein component of this ECM is characterized by the presence of a first group, consisting of collagens and elastin, and a second, less abundant group, consisting of fibronectin and laminin.

[0003] It is therefore the skin that protects us from the outside world and acts as a shield against daily environmental attacks. It is the largest organ in the body, but it is nonetheless fragile and can be irritated or damaged by various attacks.

[0004] A wound or skin lesion is an interruption in the continuity of tissue. A wound occurs when the skin or mucous membrane is scratched, cut, or torn. The severity of the wound is characterized by its location, appearance, and origin (burn, bite, cut, etc.).

[0005] Skin lesions can be classified according to biological and clinical characteristics such as the need for hydration / nutrition and the need for occlusion. It is possible to distinguish 3 families of lesions: - Weeping (or exudative) lesions: these are lesions subject to maceration which require drying with a non-occlusive treatment to allow air to pass through. Examples include diaper rash, maceration of folds, chickenpox with weeping lesions or blisters. - Non-weeping (or dry) type I lesions: these are superficial to medium lesions which require hydration with a semi-occlusive, perspiring treatment. Examples include stitches, cuts, abrasions from everyday life after the wound has dried out, chicken pox during the healing phase, lesions following a cosmetic procedure (peeling, laser, permanent hair removal, tattooing, tattoo removal, etc.).) or non-oozing diaper rash. - Non-oozing (or dry) type II lesions: these are medium to large lesions. major conditions that require lipid-replenishing nutrition with occlusive care to create a barrier to the external environment. Examples include cracks, ringworm, pulpitis, burns and excoriations.

[0006] When a wound occurs, the body triggers a natural biological phenomenon: regeneration and / or healing, complex and dynamic biological processes which involve the interaction of numerous local and systemic factors in the normal repair of tissues.

[0007] The progression of skin repair involves three interdependent phases, which advance the repair process in precise and interlinked chronological sequences:

[0008] Stage 1 – Hemostatic and Inflammatory Phase: Immediately after the wound is formed, local blood vessels dilate, causing an increase in vascular permeability and plasma leakage. This vasodilation is followed shortly after by vasoconstriction and then the formation of clots at the bottom of the wound, thanks in particular to the action of platelets, which limits blood loss. Later, attracted by chemotactic substances, pro-inflammatory cells (leukocytes and macrophages) arrive from the surrounding tissues to clean the wound, eliminating dead tissue, germs and bacteria. This phase begins between the 12th and 24th hour and causes an inflammatory reaction characterized by redness (erythema), swelling (edema), pain and an increase in local temperature.Although necessary, it is important that this inflammatory state does not last more than three days, otherwise it will delay the following stages of cell proliferation and formation of a new epithelium, also called epithelialization. However, in certain cases, inflammation can be stimulated and prolonged by the presence of free radicals such as reactive nitrogen species (or ERN or RNS) and reactive oxygen species (ERO or ROS). These compounds will naturally induce oxidation of the newly synthesized biomolecules in the wound and therefore slow down the regeneration and healing process.

[0009] Stage 2: Tissue repair phase / proliferative phase: During this phase, connective tissue cells, fibroblasts, appear in large quantities after stimulation and recruitment by macrophages. Fibroblasts produce significant quantities of collagen, elastin and other elements of the cellular matrix of the dermis. At the same time, endothelial cells form buds at the ends of the damaged capillaries. This proliferation stops when the granulation tissue has filled the loss of substance and the fibroblasts have reached the edges of the wound. At the same time as the arrival of epithelial cells, the keratinocytes of the edges begin to migrate and proliferate to join the center of the wound and then differentiate to reconstitute an epidermis (re-epidermization).

[0010] Stage 3: Remodeling phase: Once the primary scar has formed, around the 25th or 30th day, the collagen begins to degrade significantly and marks the beginning of remodeling of the primary scar. During this phase, the The edges of the wound continue to contract slowly thanks to the action of myofibroblasts and the strengthening of the union between the epidermis and the dermis. The result is that little by little, the scar becomes more supple, smoother and softer to the touch. This remodeling leads to the formation of the definitive scar after 6 months to a year or more.

[0011] The stages of proliferation of keratinocyte cells, fibroblasts or endothelial cells can be considered as one of the functional phenomena testifying to the healing activity of an active principle. An increase in the proliferation of fibroblasts would participate in the healing of a deep wound (damage to the dermis), while the increase in the proliferation and / or migration of keratinocytes would participate in re-epithelialization. The quality of the final scar depends on its size, its location and especially on the initial evolution of healing, hence the importance of care and monitoring during the formation of the primary scar.

[0012] As mentioned, in the processes of wound healing and skin regeneration, the synthesis of the extracellular matrix, and in particular collagens, plays a key role; in particular, in humans collagen III acts as a natural substrate for cell attachment, proliferation and differentiation in the budding phase; subsequently this collagen is progressively substituted by collagen I in the phase of re-epithelialization and remodeling of the primary scar; it has been demonstrated that the neosynthesis of collagen I in the dermis contributes to restoring normal mechanical strength and elasticity of tissues in the late phases of wound healing (Rodrigues et al., A Cellular Perspective. Physiol Rev.2019 Jan 1;99(1):665-706).

[0013] Skin regeneration and healing following skin injury or wounding are the result of complex interactions between different cell populations (i.e., stem and differentiated cells), ECM components, and mechanical forces in the skin. Prolongation or deregulation of at least one of the phases of skin repair may result in pathological healing / regeneration leading to hypertrophic or keloid scars, uncomfortable or even painful scarring, or chronic scarring.

[0014] Most commercial solutions available to promote optimal complete wound healing combine a mechanical pressure effect on the wound with a disinfectant, bacteriostatic and / or antibiotic effect aimed at reducing the risk of infection while waiting for re-epithelialization. However, these solutions, which focus mainly on exogenous means to promote healing, neglect a fundamental aspect, that is, that the human body endogenously possesses the means to achieve perfect wound healing.

[0015] There therefore remains a clear need for products that enable effective healing to be achieved which are ecobiological and in particular based on the promotion and respect of the repair mechanisms specific to the human epidermis. Description of the invention

[0016] The Applicant, pursuing its ecobiological approach, was able to identify, in an unexpected and surprising manner, a combination of cosmetic ingredients, advantageously ecobiological, perfectly adapted for use on human skin, which act in synergy to meet this need.

[0017] In particular, a combination of cosmetic ingredients, advantageously ecobiological, has been identified which synergistically induces in human fibroblasts the synthesis of procollagen I, a constituent of the human extracellular matrix which, as mentioned previously, is essential for effective, rapid and natural skin repair of the wound.

[0018] Thus, a first subject of the invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, advantageously ecobiological, comprising at least one monosaccharide, and polyglutamic acid or one of its salts.

[0019] The present invention offers various advantages, in particular the fact of promoting, accelerating the healing of a wound (in particular dry or exudative) and / or skin regeneration, of improving the quality of healing / regeneration, of allowing the simple and routinely integrable use of an effective composition whose compounds act in synergy, on the aforementioned cutaneous mechanisms, which is respectful of the communities of living cells constituting the skin, which constantly interact with each other and with their environment to maintain and / or restore the balance of this cutaneous ecosystem.

[0020] In the context of the invention, by "ecobiological" we mean respectful of the person, of their interactions with the world and of the planet.

[0021] In the context of the invention, the term "ecobiological approach" refers to the particular approach initiated and developed by the inventor which combines skin biology and ecology to help the skin live according to its natural biology, over the long term.

[0022] In the context of the invention, the expressions “ecobiological composition”, “ecobiological compound”, “ecobiological ingredient”, “ecobiological active ingredient” or “ecobiological excipient” respectively designate a composition, a compound, an ingredient or an excipient that is respectful of the person, of their interactions with the world, and of the planet. In particular, they designate a composition, a compound, an ingredient, an active ingredient or even an excipient that is respectful of the communities of living cells constituting the skin (i.e. skin microbiota, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, etc.) which constantly interact with each other and with their environment.

[0023] In the context of the invention, “polyglutamic acid and its salts” means polymers composed of monomers of glutamic acid, an amino acid which is found in all organisms on earth as a constituent of proteins.

[0024] In the context of the invention, the term "lipophilic organic UV filter" means any organic UV filter, whether UVB, UVA or broad spectrum, which is exclusively soluble in the fatty phase and which, in the case of emulsions, is found in the fatty phase after emulsification.

[0025] In the context of the invention, the term "triazine-derived sunscreen" denotes a molecule capable of filtering UV-A and / or UV-B rays and comprising at least one aromatic heterocycle containing three nitrogen atoms. The triazine derivative may therefore correspond in particular to a 1,2,4-triazine, a 1,3,5-triazine or a 1,2,3-triazine.

[0026] In the context of the invention, “organic UVA filter” means any organic filter absorbing mainly or exclusively UVA.

[0027] In the context of the invention, the term "solubilizer of lipophilic organic UV filters" means a compound which makes it possible to solubilize, disperse and / or dissolve at least one lipophilic organic UV filter in an effective and lasting manner, i.e. by stabilizing it in its solubilized form and by preventing or reducing its recrystallization or precipitation in the formulation throughout the duration of use of the product (generally, the product must be stable for at least 1 year after opening).

[0028] In the context of the invention, the term “O / W emulsifier” means a compound having emulsifying properties enabling oil-in-water emulsions to be produced.

[0029] For the purposes of the invention, the term “W / O emulsifier” means a compound having emulsifying properties enabling water-in-oil emulsions to be produced.

[0030] In the context of the invention, the term "active ingredient" means a substance or compound which has biological and / or therapeutic properties which underlie a physiological effect. The active ingredient is to be distinguished from at least one excipient, present in the composition according to the invention.

[0031] In the context of the invention, “molecular weight (Mw)” means the weight-average molecular weight (Mw or Molecular Weight) of a compound or polymer.

[0032] In the context of the invention, the term “composition for cutaneous application” or “for topical use” means a composition compatible with application to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp, preferably human skin.

[0033] In the context of the invention, "healing" or "healing" means the different phases of the process, as described above, by which tissue damage is repaired / the integrity of damaged tissue is restored, following an injury.

[0034] In the context of the invention, "regeneration" or "regenerate" means an increase in cell divisions in the germinative layers of the skin. This increase results in an acceleration in the replacement of senescent cells by younger cells. Skin regeneration can in particular promote the healing of a wound and / or improve the general condition of the skin, in the case of intact skin.

[0035] In the context of the invention, "dry wound" means a clean wound, which produces little or no exudate. For example, this is a chronic wound at the end of healing.

[0036] For the purposes of the invention, the term "exudative wound" means a wound that produces a significant amount of fluid (exudate) which may be serous, bloody, purulent, or mixed. Exudate is a fluid that is produced by body tissues in response to inflammation or infection, and it generally contains proteins, cells, and / or debris.

[0037] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has the following additional technical characteristics, taken alone or in combination: - the at least one monosaccharide is selected from the group consisting of rhamnose, xylose, fucose, mannose, lyxose, and arabinose; - the at least one monosaccharide comprises or is xylose, advantageously D-xylose (CAS no. 58-86-6) which corresponds to the form found in plants; - the at least one monosaccharide comprises or corresponds to the INCI designation xylose; - the xylose corresponds to the crystalline raw material D-xylose (Ardilla Technologies); - the xylose has a purity greater than or equal to 90% by weight, even more advantageously greater than or equal to 95% by weight, or even 98% by weight; - the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is in a crosslinked or non-crosslinked form; - the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is poly-γ-glutamic acid or one of its salts, advantageously the sodium salt of poly-γ-glutamic acid; - polyglutamic acid or one of its salts has a molecular weight (Mw) of between 0.01 kDa (kiloDalton) and 20 MDa (megaDalton), advantageously between 0.1 kDa and 5 MDa;- the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts has a molecular weight (Mw) of between 0.1 and 20 MDa, advantageously between 1 and 5 MDa; - the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts has a molecular weight (Mw) of between 0.01 kDa and 10 kDa, advantageously between 0.1 kDa and 5 kDa; - the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is of synthetic, plant or microbiological origin, such as poly-γ-glutamic acid synthesized by Bacillus subtilis subsp. Chungkookjang or other analogous bacterial strains; - polyglutamic acid or one of its salts corresponds to the raw materials AminoPGALE-301 (Toyobo Co. LTD), AquaMax HM (CP Kelco), Sodium Polyglutamate (Vedan Biotechnology Corporation TEGO Cosmo PGA (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH), Gamma-Max or Gamma-Oligo (Rahn corporation) - polyglutamic acid or one of its salts corresponds to the INCI designations polyglutamic acid, sodium polyglutamate, natto gum, or potassium hydrolysed polygamma glutamate;- the mass ratio between the at least one monosaccharide and the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is between 1:10 and 10:1, advantageously between 1:6 and 6:1, more advantageously between 1:3 and 3:1; - the mass ratio between xylose and the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is between 1:10 and 10:1, advantageously between 1:6 and 6:1, more advantageously between 1:3 and 3:1; - the mass ratio between the at least one monosaccharide and the poly-γ-glutamic acid, advantageously the sodium salt of poly-γ-glutamic acid, is between 1:10 and 10:1, advantageously between 1:6 and 6:1, more advantageously between 1:3 and 3:1; - the mass ratio between xylose and poly-γ-glutamic acid, advantageously the sodium salt of poly-γ-glutamic acid, is between 1:10 and 10:1, advantageously between 1:6 and 6:1, more advantageously between 1:3 and 3:1; - the at least one monosaccharide, advantageously xylose, represents between 0.001% and; 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 2%; - polyglutamic acid or one of its salts represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 2%; - the composition of the invention further comprises at least one additional compound capable of preventing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), in particular selected from the group consisting of: glabridin, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and resveratrol; - the composition of the invention further comprises at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of glycyrrhetinic acid; acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester; squalane; jojoba oil; hyaluronic acid or one of its salts; fructooligosaccharides; mannitol; xylitol; ectoin and mixtures thereof; advantageously hyaluronic acid or one of its salts;- the hyaluronic acid or one of its salts present in the composition according to the invention has a molecular weight (Mw) of between 0.1 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 400 and 600 kDa; - the hyaluronic acid or one of its salts represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5%; - the composition of the invention comprises at least two monosaccharides, advantageously xylose and rhamnose; - the composition of the invention comprises only one monosaccharide, advantageously xylose; - the composition of the invention comprises only two monosaccharides, advantageously xylose and rhamnose; - the composition of the invention further comprises at least one sunscreen; - the at least one sunscreen according to the invention is a lipophilic organic sunscreen, advantageously a triazine-derived sunscreen;- the composition of the invention further comprises at least two different triazine-derived sunscreens, or even at least three different triazine-derived sunscreens; - the at least one sunscreen according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of 1,2,4-triazine, 1,3,5-triazine, 1,2,3-triazine and mixtures thereof; - the at least one sunscreen according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine and mixtures thereof; - the composition of the invention comprises at least the triazine-derived sunscreens corresponding to the following INCI designations: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, and ethylhexyl triazone;- the at least one triazine-derived sunscreen represents between 2% and 50% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 5% and 40%, preferably between 10% and; 30%; - the composition of the invention comprises, in addition to at least one triazine-derived sunscreen, at least one organic UVA filter, which is in an aqueous (hydrophilic) and / or oily (lipophilic) phase, advantageously selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis- (diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and mixtures thereof; - the composition of the invention is free from sunscreens corresponding to the following INCI designations: 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)camphor; 3-Benzylidenecamphor; benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene; - the composition of the invention further comprises at least one mineral screen (or inorganic mineral filter), which corresponds in particular to a metal oxide and / or another compound which is difficult to dissolve or insoluble in water, in particular chosen from titanium oxides (TiO2),of zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe2O3), zirconium (ZrO2), silicon (SiO2), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al2O3), or cerium (Ce2O3), bismuth trioxide (Bi2O3), and bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl); - the composition of the invention comprises at least one mineral screen chosen from the group consisting of compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixtures, advantageously and respectively corresponding to the following raw materials: Z-COTE™ LSA and T-Lite™ (BASF); - the at least one sunscreen and / or mineral screen represents between 0.1 and 30% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.5 and 20%, preferably between 1 and 15%; - the composition of the invention further comprises at least one solubilizer of lipophilic organic UV filters,advantageously at least two solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters; - the at least one or two solubilizer(s) of lipophilic organic UV filters according to the invention is selected from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, caprylyl caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, triheptanoin, C12-13 alkyl lactate, ethylhexyl benzoate, C12-C15 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate, lauryl lactate, diethyl adipate caprylic / capric triglicerides, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl maolnate,phenoxyethyl caprylate, isodecyl salicylate, dimethyl capramide and phenethyl benzoate; - the composition of the invention comprises at least the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters corresponding to the INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate;, - the composition according to the invention comprises at least the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters corresponding to the INCI designations: dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate; - the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters represent between 5% and 80% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 10% and 70%, preferably between 15% and 60%; - the composition of the invention further comprises at least one emulsifier selected from the following group of compounds identified by their INCI designation: sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, C20-22 alkyl phosphate / C20-C22 alkyl alcohols, tribehenin PEG-20 esters, C14-C22 alcohols / C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucoside, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate and mixtures thereof;- the composition of the invention further comprises at least one emulsifier representing between 0.1% and 5% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.5% and 3%; - the composition of the invention is in any galenic form normally used or usable in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, preferably compatible with the formulation of a fatty phase; - the composition of the invention is in a galenic form suitable for topical application to the skin, mucous membranes and / or appendages; - the composition of the invention is in the form of an H / W or W / O emulsion, more or less fluid; of a multiple emulsion such as a triple emulsion (W / O / W or H / W / O); of a vesicular dispersion of ionic type (liposomes) and / or non-ionic; of a two-phase composition free from emulsifiers and gelling agents whose immiscible phases separate during storage; of foam; of stick; of anhydrous oil;of aqueous solution without fatty phase, gelled or not; of spray or mist.;

[0038] Triazine-derived sunscreens suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. For example, the following raw materials may be used in the composition according to the invention: - TINOSORB™ S / TINOSORB™ AQUA (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (CAS number: 187393-00-6); - UVASORB™ HEB (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI designation diethylhexyl butamido triazone (CAS number 154702-15-5); - TINOSORB™ A2B (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation tris-biphenyl triazine (CAS no: 31274-51-8); - the commercialized UVINUL™ T150 (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation ethyl-hexyl triazone (CAS number: 88122-99-0); - TRIASORB™ (PLANTS & INDUSTRY) corresponding to the INCI designation phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (CAS number 55514-22-2); - UVASORB™ K2A (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI designation bis-isopentyl-benzoxazolylphenyl melamine (CAS number 288254-16-0); - 1,3,5-triazine derivatives corresponding to CAS numbers 2174063-28-4, 2174063-29-5 and 2174063-30-8, described in document EP 3275872; and - 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate diethyl)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate diisopropyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate dimethyl)-1,3,5,triazine or 2,4,6-tris(a-cyano-4-aminocinnamate ethyl)-1,3,5-triazine. These molecules are described in document EP0507692.

[0039] Solubilizers suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. For example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention: - several raw materials from the CETIOL™ range (BASF), in particular CETIOL™ RLF, CETIOL™ B, CETIOL™ CC, CETIOL™ O, CETIOL™ C5, CETIOL™ AB, CETIOL™ SENSOFT, corresponding respectively to the INCI designations caprylyl caprylate / caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, cococaprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate; - DUB™ DIS, DEA, DIBA, ZENOAT (STEARINE DUBOIS) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations diisopropyl sebacate, diethyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate and propanediol dicaprylate; - MIGLYOL™ 8810 and T-C7 (IOI Oleo GmbH) corresponding respectively to the INCI designations butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and triheptanoin;- Lexsolv™ A (INOLEX) corresponding to the INCI designations dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; - COSMACOL™ ELI, ETI, ESI and LL (SASOL) corresponding to the INCI designations C12-13 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate and lauryl lactate respectively; - Ceraphyl™ 41 ester (ASHLAND) corresponding to the INCI designations C12-C15 alkyl lactate; - Finsolv™ EB and PG 22 (INNOSPEC) corresponding to the INCI designations ethylhexyl benzoate and dipropylene glycol dibenzoate respectively; - CRODAMOL™ DA, DOA, OSU and PC (CRODA) corresponding to the INCI designations diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate and propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate respectively; - ELDEW™ SL-205 (AJINOMOTO) corresponding to the INCI designation isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; - Lexfeel™ Shine (INOLEX) corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol dibenzoate;- TEGOSOFT™ XC and CT (EVONIK) corresponding to the INCI designation phenoxyethyl caprylate and caprylic / capric triglicerides; - RONACARE™ AP (MERCK KGaA) corresponding to the INCI designation hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate; - the marketed DERMOL™ IDSA (Alzo INTL) corresponding to the INCI designation isodecyl salicylate; - the Spectrasolv™ DMDA (Hallstar) corresponding to the INCU designation dimethyl capramide; and - the X-TEND™ 226 (Ashland) corresponding to the INCI designation phenethyl benzoate.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises glabridin, advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than or equal to 90% by weight. By way of example, the raw material GLABRILIANCE (GI-VAUDAN), corresponding to the INCI designation Glabridin, can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, glabridin represents between 0.0001% and 5%, advantageously from 0.001% to 1% by weight of the composition.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline (CAS No. 41672-81-5) which is a lipophilic N-acylated derivative of the amino acid hydroxyproline, and whose purity is advantageously greater than or equal to 90% by weight, even more advantageously greater than or equal to 95% by weight, or even 98% by weight. By way of example, the crystalline raw material DIPALMITOYL HYDROXYPROLINE, marketed under the name SEPILIFT DPHP™ (SEPPIC), can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline represents between 0.0001% and 5%, advantageously from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises glycyrrhetinic acid, advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight. By way of example, the raw material GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID (MARUZEN), corresponding to the INCI designation glycyrrhetinic acid, can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, the glycyrrhetinic acid represents between 0.01% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.1% and 1%.

[0043] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises xylitol, advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight. For example, the raw material OriStar XLT (Orient Stars LLC), corresponding to the INCI designation xylitol, can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, the xylitol represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.11%.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises mannitol, advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight. By way of example, the raw material OriStar MNT (Orient Stars LLC), corresponding to the INCI designation mannitol, can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, the mannitol represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises rhamnose advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight. For example, the raw material L-Rhamnose (PVP SA), meeting the INCI designation rhamnose, may be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, rhamnose represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.

[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises fructooligosaccharides (FOS) advantageously in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight. For example, the raw material ACTILIGHT 950P (TE-REOS), corresponding to the INCI designation fructooligosaccharides, can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, the fructooligosaccharides represent between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, preferably with a molecular weight (Mw) of between 0.1 KDa and 2 MDa, advantageously between 400 kDa and 600 kDa. The hyaluronic acid may have a degree of purity, preferably, of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95% or even at least 99% by weight. The hyaluronic acid is generally obtained by biotechnology, with optional enzymatic or chemical hydrolysis to obtain fragments of minor size. According to the invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid, in particular the sodium, potassium or magnesium salts, preferably the sodium salts, are also forms suitable for use in the composition, advantageously cosmetic, according to the invention.Preferably, the hyaluronic acid or one of its salts according to the invention represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5%. By way of example, the raw materials PRIMALHYAL™ 300 (SOLIANCE), HyaCare 50 BIO (EVONIK) or SODIUM HYALURONATE POWDER VLMW (BIOLAND) can be used in the composition of the invention.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises UV filters, in order to protect the wound from oxidative damage as well as the exacerbation of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) caused by solar radiation.

[0049] According to one embodiment, the composition further comprises jojoba oil (INCI: Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil). This vegetable oil, characterized by known emollient properties, is available from several suppliers of cosmetic raw materials (e.g., CAUVIN and VANTAGE SPECIALTY CHEMICALS).

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises squalane, a lipid which is also found in the composition of the skin, advantageously of plant origin and characterized by a degree of purity greater than 90% by weight. For example, the raw material PHYTOSQUALAN™ (SOPHIM) can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, the squalane represents between 0.01% and 25% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 15%.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester. For example, the raw material CALMOSENSINE™ SP (SE-DERMA), corresponding to the INCI designation Butylene Glycol & Aqua & Laureth-3 & Hydroxyethylcellulose & Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, can be used in the composition of the invention. Preferably, the acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 1%.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one emulsifier. For example, the raw materials EMULGIN SG (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate; BASF); EMULIUM 22 (INCI: tribehenin PEG-20 esters; GATTE-FOSSE); SENSANOV WR (INCI: C20-22 alkylphosphate / C20-C22 alkyl alcohols; SEPPIC); MONTANOV L (INCI: C14-C22 alcohols / C12-20 alkyl glucoside), AM- PHISOL K (INCI: potassium cetyl phosphate; DSM), MONTANOV 82 (INCI: cetearyl alcohol / coco-glucoside; SEPPIC) and TEGO™ Care PBS 6 MB (polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate) can be used in the composition of the invention as O / W emulsifiers; and the raw materials Cithrol DPHS (CRODA) or Isolan GPS (EVONIK) can be used in the composition of the invention as W / O emulsifiers.

[0053] Another object of the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the composition as described above, to promote the regeneration and / or healing of a skin wound, advantageously of a dry or exudative wound.

[0054] In particular, this cosmetic use of the composition of the invention allows an acceleration of at least one of the phases of the healing and / or regeneration process, advantageously the inflammatory phase and / or the proliferative phase and / or the maturation and remodeling phase.

[0055] In particular, this cosmetic use of the composition of the invention makes it possible to promote / accelerate the healing of a wound (in particular dry or exudative) and / or skin regeneration, and / or to improve the quality of skin healing / regeneration, as well as a simple and routinely integrable use of an effective composition whose compounds act in synergy to induce the synthesis of the constituent elements of the skin such as procollagen I.

[0056] Another object of the present invention also relates to the composition as described above for use in promoting the healing of a skin wound, advantageously a dry or exudative wound.

[0057] In particular, the composition according to the invention for its use described above makes it possible to respect and / or accelerate at least one of the phases of the healing process, advantageously the inflammatory phase and / or the proliferative phase and / or the maturation and remodeling phase.

[0058] Another object of the present invention also relates to the composition as described above for use in promoting skin regeneration.

[0059] The manner in which the invention can be implemented and the advantages which result therefrom will become more apparent from the following examples of implementation, given for informational and non-limiting purposes, in support of the appended figure. Brief description of the drawings [Fig 1] Evaluation of the effect of xylose and polyglutamic acid, alone or in combination, on the synthesis of procollagen I in a culture of normal human fibroblasts. Examples

[0060] The percentages indicated below are given by weight of product relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Example 1 – H / W solar emulsion – SPF30+

[0062] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 1. [Table 1] INCI name % Aqua / water / eau qsp 100% Ethylhexyl salicylate 9.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 8.4973 Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol 6.00 Glycerin 5.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.50 Dicaprylyl ether 3.00 Tribehenin PEG-20 esters 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 C10-18 triglycerides 2.00 Methylpropanediol 1.40 Sucrose stearate 1.00 Decyl glucoside 0.90 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate 0.88 Pentylene copolymer glycol 0.50 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 Sodium citrate 0.20 1,2-hexanediol 0.125 Caprylyl glycol 0.125 Hyaluronic acid 0.10 Mannitol 0.10 Xylitol 0.10 Citric acid 0.09 Polysorbate 60 0,06 Sorbitan isostearate 0,06 Sodium polyglutamate 0,50 Xylose 0,50 Rhamnose 0,05 Propylene glycol 0,048 Xanthan gum 0,024 Ectoin 0,01 Glycyrrhetinic acid 0,01 Tocopherol 0,0027 Fructooligosaccharides 0,001 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,00095 Laminaria ochroleuca extract 0,00005

[0063] Exemple 2 – Soin de jour – Emulsion H / E

[0064] Une composition selon l’invention est décrite dans le tableau 2. [Table 2] Nom INCI % Aqua / water / eau qsp 100% Dicaprylyl carbonate 25,0873 Glycerin 5,00 Dimethicone 3,00 Tribehenin PEG-20 esters 3,00 C10-18 triglycerides 2,00 Methylpropanediol 1,40 Sucrose stearate 1,00 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate 0,88 copolymer Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid 0,50 Pentylene glycol 0,50 Tocopheryl acetate 0,50 Sodium citrate 0,20 1,2-hexanediol 0,125 Caprylyl glycol 0,125 Mannitol 0,10 Xylitol 0,10 Citric acid 0,09 Polysorbate 60 0,06 Sorbitan isostearate 0,06 Rhamnose 0,05 Natto gum 0,04 Xylose 0,06 Ectoin 0,01 Glabridin 0,01 Tocopherol 0,0027 Fructooligosaccharides 0,001 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,00095 Laminaria ochroleuca extract 0,00005

[0065] Exemple 3 – Soin de jour – Sérum

[0066] Une composition selon l’invention est décrite dans le tableau 3. [Table 3] Nom INCI % Aqua / water / eau qsp 100% Isostearyl isostearate 6,00 Simmondsia sinensis (jojoba) seed oil 5,9982 Glycerin 5,00 Propanediol 3,00 Boron nitride 2,00 Lauroyl lysine 2,00 C10-18 triglycerides 1,48 C12-16 alcohols 1,20 Pentylene glycol 1,00 Polyglutamic acid 0,65 Xylose 0,32 Sodium hyaluronate 0,30 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,29928 1,2-hexanediol 0,25 Caprylyl glycol 0,25 Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester 0,20 Xanthan gum 0,18 Squalane 0,16 Sclerotium gum 0,08 Lecithin 0,076 Pullulan 0,06 Silica 0,004

[0067] Example 4 – Evaluation of the effect of active compounds of the invention, taken alone or in combination, on the synthesis of procollagen I by normal human fibroblasts in culture

[0068] 1. Materials and methods

[0069] 1.1. Cell culture

[0070] Normal human fibroblasts (NHF) were used in this study. The cells were seeded in 24-well plates (previously coated with collagen I) in complete culture medium (DMEM + 10% FCS). After 24 hours of incubation, the cells were incubated with the active agents or the positive control (10% FCS) in basal medium (DMEM). After 48 hours of incubation at 37°C, 5% CO2, the culture supernatants were collected and stored at -80°C before being used for procollagen I quantification by ELISA. All experimental conditions were performed in n=3. A preliminary assessment of cell viability using the WST-8 (Water-soluble tetrazolium salt) assay was performed to select doses of active agents that induce at least 80% cell viability.

[0071] 1.2. Products tested

[0072] The products tested and corresponding to the compounds of the invention are described in Table 4. [Table 4] Active ingredient INCI Dilutions tested Xylose XYLOSE 0.9% Polyglutamic acid (PGA) NATTO GUM 0.15%

[0073] 1.3. Procollagen I assay in FHN supernatants

[0074] Quantification of procollagen I was performed in supernatants by ELISA (Ref: MK101, Takara), following the manufacturer's instructions. Optical density (OD) was read with a spectrophotometer at 450 nm. Quantification of procollagen I was obtained using the standard range (10 to 640 ng / ml) established with the recombinant protein. The results were expressed as the percentage of procollagen I synthesized.

[0075] 1.4. Cell viability using WST-8 assay

[0076] WST-8 is a dye that is metabolized by mitochondrial enzymes (succinate dehydrogenase) into a soluble orange compound. The transformation of this compound is proportional to the number of living cells and their metabolic activity. The optical density is measured by the spectrophotometer at 450 nm (VERSAmax, Molecular Devices).

[0077] 1.5. Statistical analysis

[0078] Data were collected from a triplicate experiment. Quantitative analyses are expressed as mean ± standard deviation. Statistical significance was determined by a Student t-test. Differences were considered statistically significant at p<0.05. (NS: p>0.05; *: p≤0.05; **: p≤0.01; ***: p≤0.001).

[0079] 2. Results

[0080] The effects of xylose and polyglutamic acid were assessed using the in vitro procollagen I assay. The results are graphically represented in Figure 1.

[0081] The control condition arbitrarily represents 100% procollagen I synthesis in basal conditions.

[0082] The SVF control is the positive control for induction of procollagen I synthesis. It induces a significant increase of 90%.

[0083] Xylose (0.9%) does not induce any effect on procollagen I synthesis.

[0084] Polyglutamic acid (0.15%) does not induce any effect on procollagen I synthesis.

[0085] The combination of xylose (0.9%) and polyglutamic acid (0.15%) induces a significant and synergistic increase in procollagen I synthesis of 26%, which is significant compared to each of the active ingredients taken alone. After analysis of the significance test, the difference between each active ingredient alone and the combination is significant and confirms the synergistic effect of the 2 active ingredients.

[0086] 3. Conclusion

[0087] The Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of xylose and polyglutamic acid induces a significant and synergistic increase of 26% in the synthesis of procollagen I by normal human fibroblasts.

[0088] Example 5 – Evaluation of the effect of a composition according to the invention on the wound healing / regeneration process using a 3D model of a skin wound

[0089] 1. Materials and methods

[0090] 1.1. Tested assets

[0091] The tested assets are listed in Table 5. [Table 5] INCI tested dose % or concentration 25% in a phosphate-buffered saline solution (PBS) Sodium hyaluronate 0.10% Sodium polyglutamate 0.25% Water 98.15% Epiderm growth Factor 0.05 mg / ml (Sigma-Aldrich)

[0092] 1.2. Evaluation of the cytotoxicity of the active ingredients of the invention on human skin cells

[0093] After thawing and amplification, normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) were seeded at a density of 10,000 and 20,000 cells / well in 96- and 48-well plates, respectively, and cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2 until confluence.

[0094] The active ingredients included in the composition of the invention were added to the culture medium. Skin cells were treated daily for 4 consecutive days with serial dilutions of the composition of the invention diluted in phosphate-buffered saline (PBS): 1%, 5%, 10%, 25%, and 50%. The PBS- and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS-treated conditions were used as negative and positive controls, respectively. Each condition was performed in six copies. Cell viability was assessed using a colorimetric assay based on the tetrazolium salt 3(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT). This compound is a yellow tetrazolium salt that is reduced by mitochondrial enzymes in viable cells to an insoluble blue product, formazan.After 96 hours of contact with the products of interest, the cells were washed twice in PBS and then incubated with DMEM containing 0.5 mg / ml MTT. After 3 hours of incubation at 37°C and 5% CO2, the unreacted dye was removed and dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) was added to each well to solubilize the intracellular blue formazan product. The optical density of each well was read at 550 nm. The percentage of viability relative to the negative control (also referred to as the “untreated” or PBS control) was used to establish dose-response curves for each product of interest. The untreated control was defined as 100% cell viability.

[0095] 1.3. 3D Skin Wound Model

[0096] A 3D wound model was reconstructed with normal skin cells from skin harvested from healthy human donors, in accordance with the prescribed provisions and according to the protocol described by Dos Santos et al., Matrix Biol.2015 Sep;47:85-97. In particular, normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) were isolated from human skin (Germain et al., Burns 1993 Apr;19(2):99-104.), and primary cultures of NHDF and NHEK were established. These NHDFs and then NHEKs were seeded onto a porous collagen-glycosaminoglycan-chitosan polymer. After 42 days of culture, a full-thickness reconstructed skin with a dermal equivalent (DE) was obtained in which the NHDFs had neosynthesized their own extracellular matrix with collagen and elastin. The resulting mature skin equivalent was wounded using a 3-mm diameter biopsy punch and placed on another DE to allow re-epithelialization by NHEKs on a natural matrix. The re-epithelialized surface was cultured at the air-liquid interface for 4, 7, and 14 days, corresponding to each time point of interest to monitor the healing process. From D+1 after injury and for 14 days, these DEs of injured skin were treated daily topically with 15 µl of the composition of the invention or controls (PBS or EGF).At each stage of cell culture (4, 7, and 14 days), 3D wound samples were systematically collected and fixed in 4% neutral buffered formalin and embedded in cryomicrotomy medium (paraffin or OCT compound) before freezing at -80 °C, for histological and immunohistological analyses. PBS- and epidermal growth factor (EGF)-treated samples were used as negative and positive controls, respectively. For each cell culture condition, 3D skin equivalents were produced in duplicate.

[0097] 1.4. Evaluation of the toxicity of the combination of active compounds of the invention on a 3D model of reconstructed human skin

[0098] The composition according to the invention to be tested and the positive and negative controls were applied topically to the wound at two previously selected concentrations during the cytotoxicity test phase (see point 1.2). The overall metabolic cellular activity of the wounded skin constructs was monitored using the non-toxic AlamarBlue® (AB) assay for all the aforementioned culture conditions. The AB solution (Invitrogen) was prepared according to the supplier's instructions. To monitor the overall metabolic activity after treatment, the 3D wounded skin equivalent constructs were transferred into 48-well plates and incubated for 12 hours in the static AB protocol at 37°C and 5% CO2.The fluorescence of 200 μL aliquots was measured by a fluorometer using an excitation wavelength of 570 nm and an emission wavelength of 600 nm and is expressed in arbitrary fluorescence units (UF). For each measurement, a blank was measured under identical conditions to determine the baseline fluorescent signal of the solution.

[0099] 1.5. Histological analysis

[0100] The samples obtained in point 1.3. were cut into 5 μm sections and then stained with hematoxylin, phloxine and saffron (HPS) according to the standard protocol known to those skilled in the art for histological analysis. For immunofluorescence on paraffin sections, the standard protocol known to those skilled in the art was also implemented. The sections were incubated with the primary antibodies of interest (antibodies to loricrin, -CD44 / HCAM, Ki67, -collagen III, VII and XVII, -fibronectin, - laminin 332, -DNP and -MDA) diluted in PBS / 4% BSA overnight at room temperature. After incubation for 1 h with an AlexaFluor-568-conjugated anti-mouse / rabbit secondary antibody (Molecular Probes, Invitrogen), nuclear counterstaining using DAPI was performed routinely. As a negative control, the primary antibody was replaced with the corresponding IgG class.

[0101] The effects of the combination of the active ingredients of the invention were thus evaluated on several biomarker aspects: epidermal homeostasis (loricrin, CD44 / HCAM, Ki67), dermal remodeling (fibronectin, collagens III, VII and XVII), assembly of dermo-epidermal junctions (collagens VII and XVII, laminin 332), oxidative stress (2,4-dinitrophenol or DNP, malonic dialdehyde or MDA) and healing speed (keratin 14, involucrin).

[0102] 1.7. Image acquisition and analysis

[0103] HPS-stained samples were acquired using an Axio Scan Z1 scanner (Zeiss), observed using a 20X / 0.8 Plan-Apochromat objective, and images were captured using an HV-F202SCL camera (Hitachi) and NIS-Elements software (Nikon). Two representative images were captured for each condition.

[0104] Ki-67-positive epidermal cells (nucleus-positive cells) were automatically detected to express a proliferation index. Specifically, this index is defined as the number of Ki-67-positive basal cells divided by the total number of basal cells × 100%.

[0105] For epidermal, dermal-epidermal, and dermal markers, injured areas of positively red-stained tissue were automatically detected and segmented relative to other pixels. Data were normalized to dermal-epidermal junction length for epidermal and dermal-epidermal markers, and to dermal area for dermal and oxidative markers. Data are expressed as percentage of density.

[0106] 2. Results

[0107] 2.1. Morphological analysis of wound healing quality

[0108] At 14 èmeday, the wound treated with the active combination according to the invention exhibited complete re-epithelialization, resulting in a contiguous and well-organized epidermis. (images not shown). The restored epidermis of the treated wound was fully stratified, including a terminally differentiated stratum corneum along most of the wound length. In comparison, the untreated control wound was still immature, with a completely absent stratum corneum in some epidermal regions.

[0109] 2.2. Immunohistological evaluation of the quality of wound healing

[0110] The results are presented in Table 6. [Table 6] J+14 - Va- B iomarqueur ConditionD+4 - Value D+7 - Experimental value (standard deviation) (standard deviation) Negative control 1.55 (0.03) 3.33 (0.01) 13.65 (0.18) (PBS) Loricrin Positive control 3.80 (0.28) 8.07 (0.09) 15.90 (0.32) (EGF) Invention 2.30 (0.12) 4.60 (0.52) 13.40 (0.13) T émoin négatif 1.51 (0.01) 3.92 (0.13) 9.78 (0.13) CD44Positive control2.34 (0.09) 5.55 (0.15) 9.00 (0.08)Invention 3.40 (0.29) 9.19 (0.29) 11.67 (0.24) T émoin négatif 27.11 (2.98) 37.63 (4.03) 52.06 (1.41)Ki67Positive control73.57 (0.34) 43.59 (1.21) 37.78 (1.12)Invention 42.77 (0.54) 30.50 (1.53) 40.56 (2.97)T émoin négatif 1.06 (0.19) 7.04 (0.09) 24.88 (0.39)Collagen III Témoin positif 0.87 (0.02) 5.94 (0.22) 10.72 (0.40)Invention 9.82 (1.78) 13.72 (0.76) 24.91 (3.36) Negative control 8.65 (0.01) 25.51 (0.86) 13.94 (0.23) Fibronectin Positive control 3.72 (0.04) 11.34 (0.34) 7.39 (0.31) Invention 6.70 (0.74) 17.40 (0.37) 21.15 (0.67) Negative control 1.07 (0.04) 2.19 (0.08) 1.76 (0.06) Collagen VII Témoin positif0.37 (0.01) 1.49 (0.03) 2.00 (0.07)Invention 1.07 (0.04) 2.19 (0.08) 1.76 (0.06) T émoin négatif 1.58 (0.05) 4.66 (0.26) 4.36 (0.31)Collagen XVII Témoin positif 5.16 (0.11) 5.83 (0.02)4.29 (0.19)Invention 3.93 (0.17) 5.20 (0.03) 4.38 (0.15) T émoin négatif 0.50 (0.01) 1.05 (0.01) 1.84 (0.15) Laminin 332 Positive control 0.85 (0.01) 1.34 (0.05) 2.00 (0.07) Invention 0.74 (0.00) 0.99 (0.04) 1.76 (0.06) T émoin négatif 69.58 (1.08) 58.65 (2.77) 14.77 (0.23)DNP Témoin positif 18.41 (0.15) 5.34 (0.06) 7.52 (0.03) Invention 34.52 (1.87) 4.51 (0.25) 26.31 (0.62) Wound closure (surface area in mm) Positive control 6.20 3.67 0 2 ) Invention 5.73 0.66 0

[0111] At the epidermal level, the composition according to the invention (Invention) accelerates the first phase of re-epithelization (from day 0 to 4 ème day) by increasing the rate of proliferation of keratinocytes (expression of Ki67) compared to the untreated control, to reach 7ème and 14 ème days a homeostasis comparable to the negative / untreated control (PBS) and the positive control (EGF.)

[0112] Levels of the cell surface glycoprotein CD44, the main receptor for hyaluronan, gradually increase from 4 ème at 14 ème day in the condition treated with the composition according to the invention compared to the PBS and EGF conditions. With regard to terminal epidermal differentiation, the composition according to the invention induces an increase in the expression of loricrin at 4 ème and 7 ème days compared to the negative control.

[0113] At the dermal level, the composition according to the invention induces an increase in the synthesis of collagen III at the 4 ème and 7 èmedays, indicating a stimulation of dermal remodeling from the early phases of the healing / regeneration process. Conversely, an increase in the expression of fibronectin is observed at the end of the healing / regeneration phase (14 ème day) compared to the negative control.

[0114] At the dermo-epidermal level, the composition according to the invention stimulates the expression of type VII and XVII collagens of the 4 ème at 7 ème day to reach a plateau at 14 ème day compared to the negative control, indicating accelerated healing / regeneration of the dermo-epidermal junction supporting the epidermal compartment. In contrast, the expression of laminin 332 is stimulated by the composition according to the invention only at the beginning of the healing / regeneration process (4 ème day) compared to the negative control.

[0115] Global protein carbonylation (DNP) analysis shows that treatment with the composition according to the invention induces a strong decrease in the oxidation of injured skin compared to the negative control, which indicates a protective effect of the invention against oxidative stress during the wound healing / regeneration process.

[0116] 2.2. Assessment of wound healing speed

[0117] The results are presented in Table 7. [Table 7] Speed ​​of S urfac % of % closure Experimental conditions e ( mm2) wound closure surface wound vs J0 wound vs J0 vs negative control J +0 Negative control (PBS) 7.1 100 0.0Negative control 6,2 87,8 (PBS) 19,0 D+4 Positive control 5.7 80.6 19.4 (EGF) Invention 5,7 81.0 19.0 1.5 T émoin négatif 3.7 51.9 48.1D+7Positive control0.3 4.0 96.0Invention 0.7 9.4 90.6 1.9 T émoin négatif0.0 0.0 100.0J+14Positive control 0.0 0.0 100.0I nvention 0.0 0.0 100.0 It appears that the rate of re-epithelization is higher in tissues treated with EGF and the composition according to the invention compared to that of untreated control tissues (negative control (PBS)). In particular, the composition according to the invention increases the rate of wound closure by 1.9 times.

[0118] 3. Conclusion

[0119] Overall, the results demonstrate a beneficial effect of the composition according to the invention on the wound healing process (healing / regeneration), including re-epithelialization, which improves both the speed and quality of wound healing.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, advantageously ecobiological, comprising at least one monosaccharide, and polyglutamic acid or one of its salts.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one monosaccharide is selected from the group consisting of rhamnose, xylose, fucose, mannose, lyxose, and arabinose.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one monosaccharide is xylose.

4. Composition according to claim 1 to 3, characterized in that the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is poly-γ-glutamic acid, advantageously the sodium salt of poly-γ-glutamic acid.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio between the at least one monosaccharide and the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts is between 1:10 and 10:1, advantageously between 1:6 and 6:

1.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one monosaccharide represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 2%.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglutamic acid or one of its salts represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 2%.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional compound capable of preventing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, advantageously chosen from: glabridin, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and resveratrol.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of glycyrrhetinic acid; acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester; squalane; jojoba oil; hyaluronic acid or one of its salts; fructooligosaccharides; mannitol; xylitol; ectoin and mixtures thereof; advantageously hyaluronic acid or one of its salts.

10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, advantageously of molecular weight between 0.1 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 400 and 600 kDa,. represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5%.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one sunscreen.

12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the at least one sunscreen is a lipophilic organic sunscreen, advantageously a triazine-derived sunscreen.

13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, for use in promoting the healing of a skin wound.

14. Composition for its use according to claim 13, characterized in that the wound is dry or exudative.

15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, for use in promoting skin regeneration.

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