COMPOSITION TO FIGHT AGAINST THE SIGNS OF AGING OF THE SKIN AND SKIN ATTACHMENTS

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for topical application containing at least one combination (a) of polyphenols chosen from proanthocyanidin monomers and oligomers (OPC), hydroxystilbenes, flavonoid monomers and oligomers, their derivatives and their mixtures, (b) a spruce extract comprising at least one lignan chosen from: hydroxymatairesinol, secoisolariciresinol, conidendrin, lariciresinol and liovile. It also relates to the cosmetic use of such a combination for combating the signs of aging of the skin or appendages or the effects of pollution and a cosmetic treatment method using it.

Description

The invention relates in particular to combinations strengthening the skin's intrinsic defenses against oxidizing agents. It also relates to their cosmetic use for combating the signs of aging of the skin or appendages, for improving the radiance of the complexion or for reducing dark circles. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the topical application of the combination or a composition containing it. The skin is made up of two compartments, one superficial, the epidermis, and one deeper, the dermis, which interact. The human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells: keratinocytes, which are the vast majority, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes through its own functions to the role of the skin in the body, and in particular to protection against external aggressions. The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a so-called spinous layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin granules and finally the horny layer (or stratum corneum), consisting of a set of layers of keratinocytes in the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes. The dermis provides the epidermis with solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is primarily composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin, and a substance called ground substance. These components are synthesized by fibroblasts. It also contains leukocytes, mast cells, and tissue macrophages. Finally, the dermis is crossed by blood vessels and nerve fibers. Cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is ensured by the dermo-epidermal junction. Cellular oxidation and the accumulation of free radicals play an important role in the aging process. Free radical sources can be endogenous, resulting from normal metabolic processes or respiration; they can also be increased by environmental factors such as exposure to pollution, smoke, or UV rays. The action of these free radicals on the skin can lead to oxidative stress. These aging phenomena, whether intrinsic or extrinsic in origin, are natural physiological phenomena. However, there is still a need among a large number of men and women to improve the appearance of their skin or appendages and to reduce or delay the signs of aging. Application JP2003160433 describes complex compositions exhibiting anti-MMP (matrix metalloproteinase) activity containing a mixture of Theobroma cacao with different plant extracts. Cells, especially skin cells, have developed defense mechanisms against these oxidizing agents and oxidative stress, and to avoid its adverse effects that contribute to aging. On the one hand, these are glutathione, in its reduced form; on the other hand, many enzymes have antioxidant activity, such as superoxide dismutases (SOD), catalases, or heme oxygenases. The use of antioxidant agents has already been proposed in the cosmetic field, particularly for topical application. Examples include tocopherol (vitamin E) or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, carotenoids, ubiquinone, and green tea. Application FR 3 017 289 describes compositions with high direct antioxidant power containing polyphenol derivatives and vitamin C. However, there is still a need for new active ingredients capable of exerting a global antioxidant cosmetic action and in particular of combating oxidative stress on the skin and / or hair and its effects. It has now been found within the scope of the present invention that extracts of the plant Picea abies which have direct antioxidant activity are also capable of promoting the two endogenous defense pathways of cells against oxidative stress. In addition, the antioxidant effect on cellular defenses is increased significantly. synergistic when these extracts are associated with polyphenols of the type present in the vine; these polyphenols can be in native or stabilized form. This is why the present invention relates to an association of (a) at least one polyphenol selected from monomers and oligomers of proanthocyanidins (OPC), hydroxystilbenes, monomers and oligomers of flavonoids, their derivatives and their mixtures, and (b) a spruce extract comprising at least one lignan chosen from: hydroxymatairesinol, secoisolariciresinol, conidendrin, lariciresinol and liovile. The invention also relates to compositions, in particular compositions for topical application such as cosmetic compositions, containing at least said combination. The invention also relates to the associations as defined in the present application, or compositions containing them, for their use in preventing or reducing skin disorders linked to oxidative stress, and / or in stimulating the defenses of skin cells against oxidative stress. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use - non-therapeutic - of a combination of (a) at least one polyphenol chosen from monomers and oligomers of proanthocyanidins (OPC), hydroxystilbenes, monomers and oligomers of flavonoids, their derivatives and their mixtures, and (b) a spruce extract comprising at least one lignan chosen from hydroxymatairesinol, secoisolariciresinol, conidendrin, lariciresinol and liovile, or a cosmetic composition containing it to combat the signs of aging of the skin or appendages and / or against cutaneous signs linked to the environment and in particular to pollution. The invention also relates to the use of a spruce extract (or Picea abies) to stimulate the endogenous defenses of skin cells and to improve the resistance of skin cells to oxidative stress. The Picea abies extract will be useful as an agent for these applications and in particular in combinations or compositions containing it and aimed at improving the skin's resistance to oxidative stress, to combat the signs of aging or to improve the skin's radiance. Extracts of Picea abies (or spruce) useful according to the invention have been described in application WO 2009 / 101261, for their antibacterial activity and as an agent of photoprotection in anti-UV products. The activity of these extracts is mainly based on an oxidation-reduction reaction allowing the neutralization of free radicals or by trapping these radicals. Unexpectedly, it has now been found that extracts of Picea abies, or spruce, increase the production of GSH by skin cells and thus improve their resistance and that of the skin to oxidative stress. Glutathione is an antioxidant present in cells in the basal state, mainly in reduced form, GSH. A small fraction is in oxidized form, GSSG. The spruce extracts according to the invention are capable of increasing GSH synthesis by at least 10% compared to skin cells that have not been in contact with said extract; this increase can be at least 20%, or even at least 30%, and can be greater than or equal to 60%, and in particular equal to approximately 66%. In addition, the spruce extracts according to the invention activate, at non-toxic doses, the cellular synthesis of the enzyme heme-oxygenase 1 or HO-1. Heme oxygenase is an enzyme involved in the breakdown of hemoglobin. Heme oxygenase isoform 1 (HO-1) is a phase II enzyme present in normal human skin; it plays a role in the physiological system of skin detoxification and antioxidant protection, in response to stimuli such as oxidative stress. A spruce extract is therefore useful for promoting the skin's endogenous defenses against oxidizing species, through two complementary pathways. It has further been discovered in the context of the present invention that polyphenols, in particular polyphenols extracted from vines, or their derivatives also have an effect of stimulating the synthesis of the HO-1 enzyme. Unexpectedly, a combination of spruce extract and polyphenols extracted from grapevine or polyphenol derivatives extracted from grapevine has a synergistic effect on increasing the production (synthesis) of HO-1 by cells, especially skin cells. The combination of a spruce extract and polyphenols, in particular polyphenols extracted from vines or derivatives of such polyphenols, will therefore have improved activity in stimulating the endogenous defenses of skin cells against oxidative species at two complementary levels, via the glutathione pathway (increase in GSH synthesis) and the enzymatic detoxification pathway (increase in HO-1 synthesis)- Atmospheric pollutants such as particulate matter or gaseous pollutants such as sulfur dioxide, ozone and nitrogen oxides, cigarette smoke have an activity of free radical initiators which are the source of oxidation phenomena causing cellular damage in living beings. The cells of organs that are in direct and permanent contact with the external environment, such as the skin, scalp and certain mucous membranes, are particularly sensitive to these effects of pollutants, which result in accelerated aging of the skin, with a lackluster complexion, pigment spots and early formation of wrinkles and fine lines, and also in a reduction in vigor and a dull appearance of the hair. The invention therefore relates to the use of the combination (or the compositions containing it), to combat the signs of aging of the skin or appendages, whether intrinsic or extrinsic, and to combat the cutaneous signs linked to the effect of the environment and pollution. In addition to wrinkles and fine lines, the appearance of pigmentation marks, a decrease in skin thickness, loss of elasticity, and sagging are also changes observed during aging. In addition to its continuous aging, the skin is constantly changing depending on the person's state of fatigue, which manifests itself in signs such as bags and dark circles under the eyes, drawn features, and a dull complexion. The combination, or a composition containing it, will be particularly useful for reducing or preventing skin disorders such as a dull appearance of the complexion, hyperpigmentation of the skin or heterogeneity of its pigmentation and pigment spots, wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the skin and loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin. Skin means the skin of the face and / or body, the scalp and the mucous or semi-mucous membranes (such as the lips). Appendages mean hair, body hair, eyelashes, nails, and preferably head hair. Furthermore, the presence of dark circles under the eyes is a sign that contributes to a appearance of fatigue or aging, and it is desirable to reduce them. Among the causes behind their presence, we can cite an accumulation of hemoglobin in the thin and highly vascularized area located under the eye. Stimulating the breakdown of hemoglobin in this region contributes to the disappearance of dark areas and therefore to the reduction or disappearance of dark circles. The invention therefore also relates to the use of the combination of a spruce extract and polyphenols according to the invention, or the compositions containing them, to improve the radiance of the skin and complexion and / or prevent or reduce the appearance of dark circles around and / or under the eyes. The invention also relates to the use of a spruce extract or Picea abies as defined in the present text, to prevent or reduce the presence of dark circles under the eyes. In this description, for intervals expressed "between... and..." or "from... to...", it is understood that the limits are included. Spruce or Norway spruce (Picea abies) is a species of resinous tree of the Pinaceae family and the genus Picea. The extracts suitable for implementing the invention are preferably obtained from the wood and bark of the tree, in particular from the wood present at or near the knots of the wood. The spruce extracts for implementing the invention preferably contain at least 5%, and in particular between 5 and 15% of lignans relative to the weight of the extract (expressed as dry matter), with at least one lignan chosen from: hydroxymatairesinol, secoisolariciresinol, conidendrin, lariciresinol and liovile. An extract particularly suitable for implementing the invention contains at least 4%, in particular between 4 and 10% and in particular approximately 5 to 6% of hydroxymatairesinol. The content of each of the other lignans in the extract is generally between 0.01 and 5%, and in particular approximately 0.1 to 2%. In particular, an extract (titrated at 8% in lignans) solubilized in glycerin is used. The polyphenols suitable for implementing the invention are chosen from proanthocyanidin monomers and oligomers (OPC), hydroxystilbenes, and flavonoid monomers and oligomers. Such polyphenols are, for example, extracted from various plants, and in particular from vines. They can be obtained from various parts of the Vitis vinifera plant, for example from fruits or parts of the fruit such as seeds or skin, but also from vine shoots. Polyphenols may in particular be chosen from hydroxystilbenes in monomeric or oligomeric form, and in particular resveratrol (in cis and / or trans form), rhapontin, deoxyrhapontin, piceatannol, piceide and viniferins. Other polyphenols suitable for the invention are flavonoids, such as monomers and oligomers of flavan-3-ols, in particular catechin, epicatechin, gallocatechins, epigallocatechins (for example epigallocatechin gallate) and oligomers of proanthocyanidin or OPC, anthocyanins or flavanones; mention may also be made of flavonols, dihydroflavonols, flavones and isoflavones. Advantageously, the polyphenols or polyphenol derivatives comprise resveratrol and / or catechins, and / or oligomers of catechins or resveratrol, or derivatives of these compounds. Catechin oligomers preferably comprise 2 to 6 catechin units (catechin or epicatechin) and are also called OPCs. These polyphenols can be in native or stabilized form. By polyphenol derivatives is meant more particularly stabilized molecules in which all or part of the hydroxyl groups are etherified or esterified. According to a preferred embodiment, the esterification is formed with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid. The fatty acid may in particular be chosen from butyric, valeric, hexanic, sorbic, lauric, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, alpha-linolenic, arachidonic, ecosapentaenoic and docosahexaenoic acid. The monomeric units of flavonoids correspond to the following structure (I) in which - R1 represents a group -OR2, a hydrogen atom, or a substituent R3; R2 and R3 identical or different, being as defined below for R4 - at least the majority of the substituents R represent a group -COR4, R4 being an alkyl radical of at least two carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, an aryl, arylalkyl or arylalkylene radical, - the other substituent(s) R which do not represent a group -COR4 being a hydrogen atom, or an alkyl group, and - n1 and n2, identical or different from each other, are numbers from 1 to 3, 5 corresponding to the number of substitutions on a cycle, the monomeric units being linked in oligomers and polymers by carbon-carbon bonds and / or an ether bridge between the units. In the oligomers and polymers of the invention, the bonds between the carbon atoms of the successive units are located between C-4 of one unit and C-6 or C-8 of another unit. In other oligomers and polymers, at least two units are further connected by an oxygen bridge. 15 In a corresponding composition, the oligomers or polymers of polyphenols correspond to the formula 2 3. (II) in which R1 and R are as defined above, n1 to n6, identical or different, are numbers from 1 to 3 and m is a number from 0 to 100, more particularly from 1 to 20 10. In formula (II), m is preferably a number from 11 to 100 or, alternatively, m is equal to 0. The invention relates in particular to a composition characterized in that R represents a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid radical chosen more especially from the group comprising the radicals of butyric, valeric, hexanic, sorbic, lauric, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, α-linolenic, arachidonic, ecosapentaenoic and docosahexaenoic acid. In still other polyphenols of formula (II), R2 represents a phenyl or arylalkyl or arylalkylene group, the alkyl or alkylene radical being more particularly C1 to C8, in particular C1 to C4. Examples of arylalkyl or arylalkylene groups include the benzyl and styryl group. The invention relates in particular to flavanol derivatives, in particular those in which R1 is a group -OR2, R2 being as defined above. These are preferably esters of flavanol derivatives belonging to the catechol series. In these esters, the oxygenated groups are generally 5 in number per flavanolic unit, and occupy positions 3, 5, 7, 3' and 4'. In a preferred composition, the polyphenols are flavonoid extracts from plant sources, in particular from vines and more especially from grape seeds (OPC), containing monomers, oligomers and / or polymers of units corresponding to formula (I). According to a second aspect, the polyphenols used in the associations of the invention are stilbenoic extracts from plant sources, in particular from vines and more specifically from vine shoots, containing monomers, oligomers and / or polymers of units corresponding to formula (III) (neither) These units are characterized by the simultaneous presence of a resorcinol-type nucleus (nucleus A) and a para-phenol-type nucleus (nucleus B), linked together by a carbon bond such as C. In the simplest case, the two nuclei A and B are merged and the C segment is non-existent, which corresponds to the case of phloroglucinol. The nuclei A and B of these units are most often distinct, and the C segment is made up of 2 carbons which are either sp2 hybridized and form a vinyl: this is the case of resveratrol. The C segment can also be made up of sp3 hybridized carbons and serve, in particular, as an attachment point between monomers to form polymers. Like flavonoids, these stilbenoic compounds are stabilized by -OR groups (corresponding to the esterification of -OH functions). The invention also relates to a composition characterized in that the polyphenols correspond to the diastereoisomers and / or regioisomers of said flavonoid and stilbenoic polyphenols. According to a particular embodiment, all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyphenol are esterified or etherified, the polyphenol derivative therefore no longer has a free OH function. Such ethers or esters can in particular be prepared by the process described in application WO 2011 / 128714. In particular, polyphenols extracted from vine shoots, in particular resveratrol, and their derivatives, are used. Polyphenols particularly suitable for implementing the invention are catechins, catechin oligomers or OPCs, such as those extracted from grape seeds, and derivatives of these polyphenols, in particular their esters. It is understood that within the framework of the invention, mixtures in all proportions of the different polyphenols and their derivatives, esterified or etherified in part or in whole, as defined above may be used. Advantageously, in a composition according to the invention, the polyphenols mentioned in (a) are extracted from the vine, and comprise OPCs extracted from grape seeds; in particular the association or composition comprises polyphenol derivatives which are polyphenol esters. According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenols are present in the association or composition in the form of grape seed extracts, optionally stabilized to obtain polyphenol derivatives in said extracts. Such polyphenols generally comprise at least 20% (by weight, relative to the weight of total polyphenols) of catechin monomers and / or dimers; for example, the content of proanthocyanidin dimers is greater than or equal to 20% (by weight, relative to the weight of total polyphenols), and / or the content of [catechin and epicatechin] is greater than or equal to 20% (by weight, relative to the weight of total polyphenols). According to one embodiment of the invention, the grape seed extracts are essentially free of components other than polyphenols. A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, may in particular comprise polyphenols or the polyphenol derivatives mentioned in (a) in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular greater than or equal to 0.05%. A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, may in particular comprise spruce extract, in particular a spruce wood extract present at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The spruce extract may, for example, be present at a concentration greater than or equal to 0.05%, and in particular greater than or equal to 0.1%. A composition according to the invention contains, for example, a grape seed extract, optionally stabilized by esterification of the polyphenols, at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and a spruce wood extract present at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example at a concentration greater than or equal to 0.05%. Advantageously, in a cosmetic composition according to the invention the mass ratio between the polyphenols, in particular the polyphenols extracted from vines (in particular the polyphenols from grape seeds, rich in OPC) or their derivatives and the spruce extract is from 0.1 to 5 expressed as polyphenols / spruce lignans (or as polyphenols extracted from vines / spruce lignans) and preferably a ratio of grape polyphenols / spruce lignans of between 0.5 and 3. Indeed, it has been observed that in these ratios the synergistic activity on the endogenous antioxidant defenses mediated by the HO-1 enzyme is optimal. In particular, in human skin fibroblasts, HO-1 synthesis is increased by at least 30%, notably by at least 40% compared to the increase that would be expected by a simple additive effect of each of the two components of the association; this synergy can lead to an increase of more than 70% compared to the sum of the effects of each of the components of the association. The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions, or dermatological compositions suitable for application to the skin or appendages. The composition according to the invention contains the combination of polyphenols and spruce extracts as defined above, and a physiologically acceptable medium. A physiologically acceptable medium is understood to mean a medium compatible with the skin or its appendages. This is particularly the case for a cosmetically acceptable medium. This means a medium or excipients that are well tolerated by the skin and have a pleasant odor and appearance. By cosmetic product or composition is meant a substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors. This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse. It can also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a makeup product and / or a hygiene product for the skin or appendages. The composition according to the invention may be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field, and it may in particular be in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, optionally gelled, of a dispersion of the lotion type, optionally biphasic, of an emulsion obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or of a triple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O) or of a vesicular dispersion of the ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. When the composition used according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 0.5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field in question. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are present, in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils that can be used in the invention include hydrocarbons of mineral origin (mineral oil) or synthetic origin (vaseline oil, isohexadecane), oils of vegetable origin (apricot kernel oil, grape seed oil, liquid fraction of shea butter, avocado oil, soybean oil), oils of animal origin (lanolin), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate), silicone derivatives (cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols (cetyl or stearyl alcohol), fatty acids (stearic acid), waxes (carnauba wax, ozokerite, beeswax), butters, hydrogenated oils. As emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-100 stearate and PEG-20 stearate and fatty acid and glycerin esters such as glyceryl stearate, sucrose esters, phosphoholipids As is known, the composition used according to the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, odor absorbers, chelating agents and coloring matters. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase or into the lipid vesicles. In any event, these adjuvants, as well as their proportions, will be chosen so as not to harm the desired properties of the antioxidant combination. Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include, in particular, carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, examples of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes. Examples of fillers that may be mentioned include polyamide (Nylon) particles in spherical form or in the form of microfibers; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed from a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, in particular corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or not, such as starch powders crosslinked by octenylsuccinate anhydride; silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone; silica; metal oxides such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide; mica; and mixtures thereof. The composition used according to the invention may also contain other active ingredients, and in particular at least one compound chosen from: moisturizing agents; desquamating agents; agents improving the barrier function; agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation; depigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants; tightening agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-free radical agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. Antioxidant agents that may be mentioned include tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopheryl acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA, N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also contains at least one active ingredient chosen from vitamin C and its derivatives and vitamin E or its derivatives such as tocopherol acetate. The additional active ingredients may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising a step of applying the combination or compositions according to the invention to the skin or the appendages. In particular, it is a cosmetic treatment process for preventing or reducing skin disorders induced by oxidative stress comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the skin or appendages a combination of at least (a) one polyphenol chosen from monomers and oligomers of proanthocyanidins (OPC), hydroxystilbenes, flavonoid monomers and oligomers, their derivatives and their mixtures, and (b) a spruce extract comprising at least one lignan chosen from hydroxymatairesinol, secoisolariciresinol, conidendrin, lariciresinol and liovile, or a cosmetic composition containing said combination. The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic or dermatological supports of the occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin, such as hydrogel masks, wipes, tissues, or biocellulose. The application could, for example, be daily, several times a day or weekly. It could be continued for several days and / or several weeks, or even longer; it could be continuous or, for example, continued for 1 to 2 months and then resumed after an interruption. Other features and advantages of the invention are illustrated in the following examples. Example 1: Activity of a Picea abies extract on antioxidant defenses A confluent culture of human fibroblasts at 37°C, in DMEM medium supplemented with 1% fetal calf serum, is treated with different concentrations of Picea abies extract. We tested an extract of Picea abies with the following lignan composition (% by weight): Total lignans: 6-8.4% Hydroxymatairesinol 5 - 6% Secoisolariciresinol 0.3 - 0.4% Conidendrine 0.2 - 0.4% Liovile 0.2 - 0.4% Lariciresinol 0.1 - 0.2% Other lignans 0.2 - 1% - Quantification of GSH in cell lysates The GSH / GSSG Glo test is based on a luminescence system to detect and quantify total glutathione (GSH + GSSG), GSSG and the GSH / GSSG ratio. determination is based on a reaction of conversion of a luciferin NT probe into luciferin by a glutathione S-transferase enzyme coupled to a reaction with luciferase. The detected luminescence is proportional to the amount of GSH present. In one case, the total amount of glutathione is measured. This is done by converting all the glutathione present in the cell lysate into GSH, which is then measured by the test. In the case where only the oxidized form GSSG is measured, the GSH present is blocked by a reagent before converting the GSSG into GSH. After incubation, the cell culture medium is removed and the cells are washed with PBS, which is then replaced with lysis buffer. The cells are lysed for 5 minutes at room temperature. 50 µl of “luciferin generation reagent” is added The plates are incubated at room temperature for 30 minutes. 100 µl / well of detection reagent was added The plates were equilibrated for 15 min at room temperature Luminescence is measured with a TECAN M200 device with the following parameters: integration time = 1 s, rest time = 1s Result: Picea abies extract at concentrations ranging from 100 to 500pg / ml (0.01% - 0.05%) significantly induced cellular GSH synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts from 11% up to 66% compared to the basal level of untreated cells. These data were confirmed in a second experiment which showed that a Picea abies extract rich in hydroxymatairesinol at concentrations ranging from 250 - 500 pg / ml (0.025% - 0.05%) is able to induce significant cellular synthesis of GSH in normal human dermal fibroblasts from 33% up to 64% compared to the basal level of untreated cells. The absence of cellular toxicity under these experimental conditions was also verified and allows us to conclude that the effect observed on the stimulation of defenses is not the result of a toxic effect. - Quantification of the HO-1 enzyme in cell lysates After 24 h of stimulation with the compounds, the cells were detached, centrifuged for 10 min at 1200 rpm and resuspended in lysis buffer. Two freeze / thaw cycles in liquid nitrogen were performed and then the cell fragments were removed by centrifugation. Cell lysates were then stored at -80 °C before use. Total protein concentrations in samples were determined using the BCA kit (Sigma) according to the manufacturer's instructions. For each sample, the measurement was performed in triplicate. The mean value is reported in the presented results. The amount of HO-1 in cell lysates was measured by ELISA using the Total Human HO-1 / HMOX1 ELISA kit as follows: - ELISA plates were coated with capture antibodies at a concentration of 8 pg / ml and incubated at room temperature overnight. - Plates were washed 3 times with PBS-0.05% Tween 20 and blocked with PBS-1% BSA for 1 h at room temperature. - The plates were washed 3 times with PBS-0.05% Tween 20. - 100 µl of undiluted samples were added to plates along with HO-1 standard samples at concentrations ranging from 0.15-10 ng / ml. Incubation was carried out for 2 h at room temperature. - After 3 washing steps with PBS-Tween 20 0.05%, 100 μl of HRP-conjugated detection antibody (200 ng / ml) was added for 2 h at room temperature. - After 3 washing steps, a streptavidin-HRP solution is added for 20 minutes at room temperature. - After 3 washing steps, the TMB HRP substrate was added. After an incubation time of 15 - 20 minutes, at room temperature and protected from light, the reaction was stopped by adding 2N H2SO4. - Optical density (OD) reading was performed with the Tecan Infini microplate reader at 450 nm with correction at 570 nm. The results were analyzed using Magellan software. HO-1 concentrations were normalized to total protein concentration for each sample. The absence of cellular toxicity under these experimental conditions was also verified and allows us to conclude that the effect observed on the stimulation of defenses is not the result of a toxic effect. Results: HO-1 concentrations (pg / pg total protein) Mean of 3 samples SD p-value increase (%) Untreated 0 11.75 0.54 Picea abies extract at 8% (pg / ml) 100 12.01 1.53 0.7973 2.19 500 36.74 2.53 <0.0001 212.63 5 Example 2: Activity of a combination of an extract of Picea abies and grape seed on antioxidant defenses A confluent culture of human fibroblasts at 37°C, in DMEM medium supplemented with 1% fetal calf serum, is treated with different concentrations of Picea abies extract and grape seed extract, according to the same protocol as in example 1. Grape seed extracts have the following proanthocyanidin content relative to total polyphenols: Total polyphenols 100% Catechin + epicatechin 22.6% Proanthocyanidin dimers 25.1% 15 HO-1 concentrations in cell lysates were normalized to the total protein concentration in each sample. The results are shown in the following table: HO-1 concentrations (pg / pg total protein) Mean of 3 measurements SD p value (t-test) increase (%) Untreated 0 18.54 2.40 0.00 Picea abies extract at 8% (pg / ml) 500 24.84 3.98 0.079 33.94 Grape seed extract (pg / ml) 14.5 31.12 3.10 0.0052 67.83 Picea abies extract at 8%+ Grape seed extract (pg / ml) 500 + 14.5 65.90 9.36 0.0011 255.43 The absence of cellular toxicity under these experimental conditions was also verified and allows us to conclude that the effect observed on the stimulation of defenses is not the result of a toxic effect. 5 The percentage increase in activity for an additive effect would have been 34% + 68% or 102%. The activity measured for the combination of Picea abies extract and grape seed extract is 76% higher than this theoretical sum. 10 This demonstrates that a grape seed extract enriched in proanthocyanidins and a Picea abies extract rich in hydroxymatairesinol are able to significantly induce the production of the antioxidant enzyme HO-1 in normal human dermal fibroblasts in a synergistic manner. Indeed, the activity measured for the combination is higher than the sum of the activities measured for each compound. 15 individually. The results are summarized in the table below: Enzymatic Antioxidant Defense: Increase in HO-1 (%) 8% Picea abies extract 500 pg / ml 34% Grape seed extract 14.5 pg / ml 68% 8% Picea abies extract + Grape seed extract (theoretical activity for an additive effect) 500 pg / ml + 14.5 pg / ml 102% 8% Picea abies extract + Grape seed extract 500 pg / ml + 14.5 pg / ml 255% 20 Example 3: Compositions according to the invention Lotion Common Name % Water QSP 100 Glycerin 3.00 Mixed with methylpropane diol, caprylyl glycol, phenyl propanol 0.50 Picea abies extract 8% 0.20 Grape seed polyphenols 0.25 Alcohol 5.00 The different components of the composition are mixed to obtain a lotion. This will be applied in the morning and / or evening to the entire face and neck. 5 Gel Cream Common Name % Water QSP 100 Butylene glycol 3.00 C10 / 30 alkylacrylates crosspolymer 0.50 Xanthan gum 0.30 Coco-caprylate 5.00 Grape seed oil 3.00 Picea abies extract 8% 1.00 Vine polyphenol derivatives 0.60 Potassium sorbate 0.20 Perfume 0.30 The cream gel will be applied morning and / or evening to the face, neck and hands. 10 Emulsion Common Name % Water QSP 100 C10 / 30 alkylacrylates crosspolymer 0.30 Phytic acid 0.05 Mixed methylpropane diol, caprylyl glycol, phenyl propanol 2.00 Dicaprylyl ether 20.00 Mixed cetearyl alcohol and PEG-20 stearate 3.00 8% Picea abies extract 1.00 Vine polyphenol derivatives 0.3 The composition will be applied morning and / or evening to the face and neck

Claims

Claims 1. Cosmetic composition containing at least one combination of (a) at least one polyphenol chosen from monomers and oligomers of proanthocyanidins (OPC), hydroxystilbenes, monomers and oligomers of flavonoids, their esters and their mixtures, said polyphenol being extracted from the vine, (b) a spruce extract comprising at least one lignan chosen from: hydroxymatairesinol, secoisolariciresinol, conidendrin, lariciresinol and liovile.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol(s) mentioned in (a) are extracted from the vine and comprise OPCs extracted from grape seeds.

3. Cosmetic composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the polyphenols or polyphenol derivatives (a) are present at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the spruce extract is an extract of spruce wood and is present at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains at least (a) a grape seed extract containing polyphenols, stabilized by esterification, the extract being present at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight (b) a spruce extract at a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight.

6. Cosmetic composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the mass ratio of the concentrations between the polyphenols extracted from vines or their derivatives and the spruce extract is between 0.1 and 5 expressed as spruce polyphenols / lignans.

7. Cosmetic composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it also contains at least one active agent chosen from the agents antioxidants, moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier function improving agents, depigmenting agents, agents promoting skin microcirculation. 5 8. Cosmetic composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains at least one active ingredient chosen from vitamin C and its derivatives and vitamin E and its derivatives.