Ultra-long-lasting foundation

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic skin makeup composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, c) one or more hydrocarbon volatile oils, preferably in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) one or more absorbent fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 30ml / 100g, and e) pigments.

Description

Title of the invention: Ultra-high-hold foundation FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular skin, having improved makeup hold in extreme conditions (sebum, sweat). This is referred to as 'ultra-high-hold' makeup. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Cosmetic makeup compositions, such as foundations, are commonly used to provide color and an aesthetic effect to the skin, particularly the face. These compositions generally include oils (comfort), pigments (color) and fillers (matteness), but one of the problems with makeup products is the durability of the makeup over time, in particular good color retention, matteness, and / or homogeneity. And this problem is even more important for skin with increased sebum secretion (oily skin and / or skin subjected to intensive physical exercise) and skin subjected to extreme temperature and / or humidity conditions.

[0003] The use of polymers providing hold throughout the day is known from the state of the art. However, foundations on the market positioned as long-lasting are often uncomfortable or disappointing in terms of hold in extreme conditions (heat and humidity). There therefore remains a need for cosmetic skin makeup compositions having improved matteness and hold of matteness and / or color, in particular resistant in extreme conditions such as hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions and / or such as sweating conditions associated with intensive physical exercise (e.g. sport).

[0004] The Applicant observed that the combined use of two holding polymers, one in aqueous phase for hold and comfort and the other in fatty phase for resistance to perspiration and sebum, a significant content of volatile oils, preferably hydrocarbon-based, and a selection of absorbent fillers for their oil absorption capacities, made it possible to meet this need. Statement of the invention

[0005] An aim of the invention is therefore to propose a cosmetic composition for skin makeup, in particular a foundation in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, having improved hold and homogeneity, particularly sought after for extreme conditions (hot and humid climates or intensive physical exercise).

[0006] “Hold” refers to makeup that is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day. Good hold refers to foundation that does not require touch-ups during the day.

[0007] “Uniformity or homogeneity” is the ability of the foundation to remain uniform throughout the day, that is to say that it does not amalgamate into patches, does not form areas of different thicknesses and is not absorbed in places at the end of the day.

[0008] To this end, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition for skin makeup is proposed in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) one or more absorbent fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 30ml / 100g, and e) pigments.

[0009] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a content of non-volatile oils less than or equal to 5%, in particular less than or equal to 2% by weight, or even less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is free of non-volatile oils.

[0010] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up the skin comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined in the invention.

[0011] According to a particular embodiment, according to the method of the invention, the composition is applied to skin with a tendency to be oily and / or skin subjected to hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions, and / or sweating conditions linked to intensive physical exercise.

[0012] According to the invention, the term 'oily skin' means skin with a shiny complexion and / or a perception of discomfort, surface irregularities, in particular follicular orifices or dilated pores, an imperfect skin texture, and / or skin with poorer makeup hold.

[0013] By 'intensive physical exercise' is meant physical exercise that stimulates perspiration and the secretion of sebum, for example playing a sport.

[0014] Other characteristics, aims and advantages of the invention will emerge from the following description, which is purely illustrative and not limiting. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] A first object of the invention is a cosmetic makeup composition of the skin in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) one or more absorbent fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 30ml / 100g, and e) pigments.

[0016] By 'physiologically acceptable medium', it is meant according to the invention that the medium is compatible with human keratin materials, and has a pleasant appearance (touch, color and / or odor) without generating discomfort when applied to said keratin materials.

[0017] According to the invention, the term 'keratin materials' means the skin of the face and / or neck. AQUEOUS PHASE

[0018] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention generally represents from 1 to 70% by weight, in particular from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0019] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0020] According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, mention may be made of:

[0021] - lower monoalcohols C1-C5 such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0022] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;

[0023] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylenes glycols, and their mixtures,

[0024] and mixtures thereof.

[0025] It may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0026] Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent chosen from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0027] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise at least less ethanol, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, providing a fresh effect.

[0028] And the composition will advantageously further comprise at least polyols and / or glycols in a total content ranging from 3 to 12% by weight, in particular 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for a moisturizing effect promoting the obtaining of a radiant complexion ('glowy' effect) without a greasy effect. Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

[0029] An aqueous polyurethane dispersion according to the invention is as described in particular in patent application EP1970391 filed in the name of Bayer Mate-rialScience LLC.

[0030] In particular, the dispersed polyurethane comprises the reaction products of: A) a prepolymer according to the formula

[0031] [Chem.l]

[0032] in which Ri represents a bivalent radical of a dihydroxyl compound, in particular a hydrocarbon radical derived from a polyester polyol, and in particular from a polyester diol, R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical derived from an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate, R3 represents a hydrocarbon radical derived from a low molecular weight diol, optionally substituted by ionic groups, n is from 0 to 5, and m is > 1 ; B) at least one chain extender according to the formula:

[0033] [Chem.2] H2M-R4—HHi

[0034] in which R4 represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical unsubstituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups; and C) at least one chain extender according to the formula:

[0035] [Chem.3] HiH-Rs-NHs.

[0036] in which R5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by ionic or potenti- entially ionic.

[0037] According to a particular mode:

[0038] - the radical RI is obtained by (poly)condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid with at least one diol, said dicarboxylic acid preferably being chosen from adipic acid, the diol preferably being chosen from hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, and mixtures thereof;

[0039] - the radical R2 is derived from an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate, and in particular a diisocyanate chosen from 1,6-hexamethylenediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate and dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof;

[0040] - the radical R3 comes from neopentyl glycol;

[0041] - the chain extender according to formula Chem.2 is chosen from ethylene diamine, diethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and

[0042] - the chain extender according to the formula Chem.3 is chosen from the di- aminosulfonates, and preferably is the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. Prepolymer A) Radical RI

[0043] Suitable compounds for providing the polyhydroxyl, preferably dihydroxyl, radical RI are divalent compounds, preferably with two hydroxy groups and having average molecular weights of about 700 to about 16,000, and preferably about 750 to about 5,000.

[0044] Preferably, these compounds are chosen from polyester polyols, preferably polyester diols, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] The polyesterdiol(s) may generally be prepared from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids or their anhydrides (e.g. succinic, fumaric, glutaric, 2,2-dimethylglutaric, adipic, itaconic, pimelic, suberic, azelaic, sebacic, maleic, malonic, 2,2-dimethylmalonic, nonanedicarboxylic, deca-nedicarboxylic, dodecanedioic, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic, diglycolic, thiodi-propionic, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic, phthalic, terephthalic, isophthalic, oxanic, o-phthalic, tetrahydrophthalic, hexahydrophthalic or trimellitic;and o-phthalic, trimellitic or succinic acid anhydride or a mixture thereof), and- dihydric alcohols, such as diols chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols (e.g.: ethanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, ; tetrapropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,4-dihydroxycyclohexane, 1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane, cyclohexane di-methanol, 1,8-octanediol, 1,10-decanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, neopentyl glycol or mixtures thereof).

[0046] Preferably the dicarboxylic acid is adipic acid.

[0047] The polyesterdiols may also be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of lactones, which are preferably obtained by addition reactions of lactones or mixtures of lactones, such as butyrolactone, α-caprolactone and / or methyl-c-caprolactone with suitable polyfunctional, preferably difunctional, initiator molecules, such as, for example, the dihydric alcohols mentioned above. The corresponding polymers of c-caprolactone are preferred.

[0048] The polyesterpolyol radical Rh, preferably polyester diol, can be advantageously obtained by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids, such as adipic acid, with polyols, in particular diols, such as hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, and mixtures thereof. Radical R2

[0049] Suitable polyisocyanates for providing the hydrocarbon radical R2 include organic diisocyanates having a molecular weight of about 112 to 1000, and preferably about 140 to 400.

[0050] Preferred diisocyanates are those represented by the general formula R2(NCO)2 indicated above, in which R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent araliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising 7 to 15 carbon atoms or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon group comprising 6-15 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable organic diisocyanates include tetramethylenediisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylenediisocyanate, dodecamethylenediisocyanate, cyclohexane-1,3-diisocyanate and cyclohexane-1,4-diisocyanate, l-isocyanato-3-isocyanatomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane (isophoronediisocyanate or IPDI), bis-(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)-methane, l,3-bis(isocyanatomethyl)-cyclohexane and l,4-bis(isocyanatomethyl)-cyclohexane, bis-(4-isocyanato-3-methyl-cyclohexyl)-methane.Mixtures of diisocyanates can of course be used. Preferred diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates. Particularly preferred are 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate and dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof. Radical R3

[0051] The use of low molecular weight diols, R3, may allow rigidification of the polymer chain and is optional. The term "low molecular weight diols" means diols having a molecular weight of about 62 to 700, preferably 62 to 200. They may contain aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic groups. Preferred compounds contain only aliphatic groups. The diols used preferably have up to 20 carbon atoms and may be chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propane-1,2-diol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,4-diol, butylene-1,3-glycol, neopentyl glycol, butylethylpropanediol, cyclohexanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, hexane-1,6-diol, bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane), hydrogenated bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxycyclohexylpropane), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, R3 is derived from neopentyl glycol.

[0052] Optionally, the low molecular weight diols may contain ionic or potentially ionic groups. Suitable low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are those disclosed in US Patent 3,412,054. Preferred compounds include dimethylolbutanoic acid (DMBA), dimethylolpropionic acid (DMBA) and carboxyl-containing caprolactone polyesterdiol. Preferably, low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are not used. Chain extenders B) and C)

[0053] The chain of the prepolymer A) is extended using two classes of chain extender B) and C) described below.

[0054] Chain extenders (first class) B)

[0055] Compounds of the first chain extension class have the formula:

[0056] [Chem.4]

[0057] in which R4 represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical not substituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups.

[0058] Thus, the chain extender can be chosen from: - Alkylenediamines such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine and piperazine. - Alkylene oxide diamines such as dipropylaminediethylene glycol (DPA-DEG), 2-methyl-1,5-pentanediamine, hexanediamine, isophoronediamine, and 4,4-methylenedi(cyclohexylamine), and the DPA-etheramine series, including dipropylaminepropylene glycol, dipropylaminedipropylene glycol, dipropylami-netripropylene glycol, dipropylaminepoly(propylene glycol), di propylaminethylè- glycol, dipropylaminepoly(ethylene glycol), dipropylamine-1,3-propanediol, dipropylamine-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, dipropylamine-1,4-butanediol, dipro-pylamine-1,3-butanediol, dipropylamine-1,6-hexanediol and dipropylaminecy-clohexane-1,4-dimethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the chain extender of the first class is chosen from ethylenediamine, diethanolamine and their mixtures.

[0060] Chain extenders (second class) C)

[0061] The second class of chain extenders includes compounds having the formula:

[0062] [Chem.5]

[0063] in which R5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups. These compounds have an ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups which are reactive with isocyanate groups.

[0064] The ionic group or the potentially ionic group can be chosen from the group consisting of tertiary or quaternary ammonium groups, groups convertible into such a group, a carboxyl group, a carboxylate group, a sulfonic acid group and a sulfonate group. Specific compounds include diaminosulfonates, such as, for example, N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid sodium salt (ASA) or N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid sodium salt.

[0065] Preferably, R5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by sulfonic acid or sulfonate groups, more preferably the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (ASA). String terminations

[0066] The polyurethane according to the invention may also comprise compounds which are located in each case at the ends of the chains and terminate said chains. These chain terminations may be derived from compounds having the formula

[0067] [Chem.6]

[0068] wherein R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkylene radical optionally having a hydroxyl end and R7 represents an alkylene radical optionally having a hydroxyl end. Suitable compounds include compounds such as monoamines, in particular monoamines se or monoalcohols. Examples include: methylamine, ethylamine, propylamine, butylamine, octylamine, laurylamine, stearylamine, isononyloxypropylamine, dimethylamine, diethylamine, dipropylamine, dibutylamine, N-methylaminopropylamine, diethyl(methyl)aminopropylamine, morpholine, piperidine, diethanolamine and suitable substituted derivatives thereof, amide-amines of primary diamines and monocarboxylic acids, monoketimides of primary diamines, primary / tertiary amines such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine and the like. The chain-terminating alcohols may be selected from C;-Cio alcohols, such as methanol, butanol, hexanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, isodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Amino alcohols such as aminomethylpropanol (AMP) are also suitable.

[0069] In one embodiment of the invention, diethylene glycol is used to obtain the polyurethane either as a low molecular weight diol or as part of the non-ionic chain extender via the use of dipro-pylamine-diethylene glycol. In the case where diethylene glycol is used as the low molecular weight diol, then preferably DPA-DEG ​​is not used as the non-ionic chain extender. Similarly, if DPA-DEG ​​is used as the non-ionic chain extender, then preferably diethylene glycol is not used as the low molecular weight diol.

[0070] The aqueous polyurethane dispersions according to the invention may have a solids content (dry matter) of 20 to 60% by weight, preferably of 28 to 50% by weight, and in particular of 39 to 42% by weight.

[0071] Such polyurethane dispersions are, for example, Polyurethane 34 sold under the commercial references Baycusan® C1000, C1001 by the company BAYER, and Polyurethane 35 sold under the commercial reference Baycusan® C1004 by the company BAYER (COVESTRO).

[0072] A preferred aqueous polyurethane dispersion according to the invention is that marketed under the name Baycusan® C1004 by BAYER (COVESTRO), with the INCI name 'Polyurethane-35' or 'Polyurethane-35 and water'. This dispersion comprises 41% polyurethane in dry matter and 59% by weight of water.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersed polyurethane is present in the composition in a dry matter content ranging from 0.2 to 20%, in particular from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight of dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of said composition. OIL PHASE

[0074] The composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.

[0075] The term “oily phase” means an oil or a mixture of oils miscible between they.

[0076] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” means a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0077] An oily phase according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0079] According to the invention, the term 'volatile oil' means an oil with a defined volatile character by the protocol described below and in the illustrative examples.

[0080] According to the invention, the term 'non-volatile oil' means an oil which does not meet the volatility criteria defined above.

[0081] According to the invention, the term 'hydrocarbon oil' means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0082] According to the invention, the term 'silicone oil' means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0083] According to the invention, the term 'fluorinated oil' means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. Volatile oils

[0084] By volatile oil according to the invention is meant an oil having lost more than 20% by weight of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by weight of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by weight of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the protocol described below.

[0085] Protocol for monitoring oil volatility:

[0086] 20mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5cm x 5cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. This material is spread with the finger over the entire plate. Then, it is placed in a ventilated enclosure thermostated at 25°C and 50% humidity. For each material, the test is carried out 3 times in order to calculate a standard deviation and have an idea of ​​the repeatability of the method.

[0087] The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0088] [Math.l] * Wra? wraw ~---------— x WO

[0089] With mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tl5min, t30min or tôOmin) and mt0 corresponding to the mass applied initially.

[0090] Oil volatility measurements are expressed in time (in minutes).

[0091] A person skilled in the art will thus be able to define the oils which are suitable for the invention on the basis of this test of monitoring its loss in mass as a function of time.

[0092] The composition of the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, in one total content of at least 10% by weight and ranging in particular from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0093] The high rate of volatile phase, and in particular of volatile oils, makes it possible to have a light composition, which is easily applied to the skin; the volatile oils participate in the establishment of the film on the skin during application, and when they evaporate, they allow the film to adhere to the skin, with a sensation of bare skin, without a material effect or mask effect on the skin.

[0094] The volatile oils can be chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made in particular of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures. Mention may be made in particular of silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) whose viscosity ranges from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (otherwise known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] As volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may in particular be made of linear C9-C13 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes, and their mixtures.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from volatile linear alkanes, isododecane, and their mixtures. Volatile linear C9-C13 alkanes

[0098] As examples of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those sold under the name CETIOL by the company BASF, and mixtures of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) such as those sold under the name VEGELIGHT by the company BIOSYNTHIS, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0099] Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc. As examples of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company COGNIS WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0100] It is possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or preferentially to use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2.

[0101] As examples of mixtures suitable for the invention, the following mixtures may be mentioned in particular:

[0102] - from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, preferentially still from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear Cn alkane with n ranging from 9 to 13

[0103] - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear Cn+x alkane with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x=1 or x=2, with n+x between 10 and 13, relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture.

[0104] More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention can be used in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (Cn / Ci3) mixture.

[0105] In particular, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising:

[0106] - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear alkane in Cn (n-undecane)

[0107] - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane in Cu (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture.

[0108] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / Ci2) is used.

[0109] Among the preferred linear alkanes, the following commercial references may be cited: - VEGELIGHT SILK from the company BIOSYNTHIS with INCI name C9-12 ALKANE; - VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D from the company BIOSYNTHIS with INCI name C9-i2 ALKANE (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE - CETIOL ULTIMATE MB from the BASF company named INCI UNDECANE, TRIDECANE, TOCOPHEROL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL. Branched alkanes

[0110] Mention may in particular be made of isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane. Preferably, isododecane will be used.

[0111] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least isododecane.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from the group consisting of isododecane, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 13 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.

[0113] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one or more volatile linear alkanes.

[0114] The volatile oils will be present in the composition of the invention in a total content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of volatile oils also includes the volatile oils used as dispersants and included in the other ingredients of the composition, such as the hydrophobic film-forming polymer. Non-volatile oils

[0115] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise non-volatile oils, to improve comfort when applied to keratin materials.

[0116] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic C 10-C 40 ethers, synthetic C 10-C 40 esters, fatty alcohols C 12-C 26, higher fatty acids C 2-C 22, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] As non-volatile silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of phenylated silicone oils, non-phenylated silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0118] But according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the total content of non-volatile oils in the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a content of non-volatile oils less than or equal to 2% by weight, or even less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is free of non-volatile oils.

[0120] The total non-volatile oil content also includes non-volatile oils used as dispersants and included in the other ingredients of the composition.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of non-volatile oils. Hydrophobic film-forming polymer

[0122] The composition of the invention also comprises a hydrophobic film-forming polymer.

[0123] The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support. In the text, the word polymer may designate a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term “copolymer” means a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be from the same chemical family but of different structure. The term “hydrophobic or liposoluble film-forming polymer” means a film-forming polymer solubilized in the oily phase of the composition.

[0124] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be of natural or synthetic origin, and is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of:

[0125] - trimethylsiloxysilicates, in particular Belsil TMS 803 (WACKER), KF7312 by Shin Etsu

[0126] - phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group comprises preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate,

[0127] - silicone acrylate polymers such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as, for example, KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as, for example, KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, and in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (such as, for example, FA-4003 DM from Dow Corning®), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, FA-4004 ID from Dow Corning®),

[0128] - polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane (such as Silform® Flexible Resin from Momentive),

[0129] - trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulans in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (such as TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu),

[0130] - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as copolymers of VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene,

[0131] - copolymers of a vinyl ester, and preferably acetate copolymers of vinyl / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate,

[0132] - polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,

[0133] - alkylcelluloses, and preferably alkylcelluloses carrying an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,

[0134] - polyvinyl alcohols, and

[0135] - their mixtures.

[0136] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a silicone film-forming polymer chosen from the group consisting of:

[0137] - trimethylsiloxysilicates,

[0138] - phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group comprises preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate,

[0139] - silicone acrylate polymers such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, and in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (such as FA-4003 DM from Dow Corning®), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (such as FA-4004 ID from Dow Corning®),

[0140] - polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane (such as Silform® Flexible Resin from Momentive),

[0141] - trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulans in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (such as TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu),

[0142] and mixtures thereof.

[0143] More preferably, the liposoluble film-forming polymer b) is chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicates, silicone acrylate polymers and their mixtures.

[0144] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0145] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 12% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition. The percentage of hydrophobic film-forming polymer is expressed as % by weight of dry extract (dry matter or active material, ma) relative to the total weight of the composition. ABSORBENT FILLERS

[0146] By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or provide a mattifying effect. Fillers can be mineral or organic in any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.

[0147] The fillers according to the invention are fillers having a capacity to absorb and / or adsorb an oil or a liquid fatty substance.

[0148] Thus, the absorbent fillers according to the invention can be characterized by their oil absorption, otherwise called oil uptake, expressed in milliliters of oil per gram of filler (ml / g).

[0149] This oil uptake corresponds to the quantity of oil absorbed and / or adsorbed by the load and can be characterized by measuring the oil uptake according to standard methods. In particular, the method for determining the powder oil uptake described in standard NF T 30-022 can be cited, and corresponding to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the load, expressed as the volume of oil adsorbed over the mass of the load.

[0150] According to a particular and preferred mode, the following method will be used for taking oil: - pour the artificial sebum (25% Jojoba oil, 15% squalane and 60% miglyol 829 (CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE) onto 1g of powder (load to be tested); - with the spatula, gently mix in the powder, lightly crushing it, the aim being to obtain a mastic paste that does not crumble and comes off easily; - the result is recorded in ml of artificial sebum per 1g of powder. It must be converted to ml / 100g by multiplying the value read by 100; - the measurement must be carried out twice on each sample, if the difference between these 2 measurements is greater than 0.05ml, a 3rd measurement is carried out.

[0151] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers also have a low capacity to absorb and / or adsorb water.

[0152] The same method is used for water intake, replacing the artificial sebum with demineralized water.

[0153] In practice, we can use:

[0154] - a 10ml burette (precision 0.05 ml) filled with demineralized water for taking in water,

[0155] - a 10 ml burette (accuracy 0.05 ml) filled with artificial sebum as described above for oil intake,

[0156] - a large diameter watch glass, on which 1g of powder is weighed (charge at test)

[0157] - a scale, and

[0158] - a wide flat spatula with a round end.

[0159] The greater the poured volume value, the more the filler is able to absorb water or sebum.

[0160] If the filler does not absorb any water at all, it is hydrophobic.

[0161] If the filler does not absorb any sebum at all, it is lipophobic (with respect to this artificial sebum).

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, fillers having an oil uptake capacity of at least 30mL / 100g are used.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, fillers having an oil uptake capacity of between 55mL / 100g and 250mL / 100g are used.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, fillers are used having an oil uptake capacity of between 30mL / 100g and 250mL / 100g, in particular between 55mL / 100g and 250mL / 100g.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers also have a water intake capacity of less than 300mL / 100g, in particular between 0mL / 100g and 250mL / 100g, in particular 0mL / 100g and 170mL / 100g.

[0166] Among these fillers which also have a water intake capacity of less than 300mL / 100g, it will be possible to use: - a filler having an oil uptake capacity of between 55mL / 100g and 100mL / 100g and zero water uptake, such as the filler marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL MB; - a filler having an oil uptake capacity of between 120mL / 100g and 145mL / 100g and a water uptake of between 120mL / 100g and 150mL / 100g like the filler marketed under the name AMILON.

[0167] Non-limiting examples of fillers that can be used according to the invention are described in the following table 1:

[0168] [Tables 1] Fillers (commercial reference) INCI Name Oil uptake (mL / 100g) Water uptake (mL / 100g) ORGASOL 2002 DNAT COS (reference filler) NYLON-12 55 105 MAKIBEADS 150 METHYL ME THACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PMMA) 175 0 BORON NITRIDE CC6058 BORON NITRIDE 95 105 AMILON SILICA AND AMINO ACID 130 145 AMIHOPE LL MB LAUROYL LYSINE 75 0 RAMIE CELLULOSE POWDER CELLULOSE 75 150 ORGASOL POWDER EXP HCO NYLON-12 in HY- DROGENATED CASTOR OIL 60 0 MK-7 SILICA 245 260 SPHERICA BA-1 SILICA 150 265 RONAFLAIR FLAWLESS SILICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) AND IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) 50 60 RAMIE CELLULOSE POWDER CELLULOSE 75 150 SILK COTTON PW CELLULOSE 120 260

[0169] Thus the filler(s) according to the invention are chosen in particular from: - polyamide powders (e.g. nylon) - acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethacrylate methyl (PMMA) - boron nitride powders - silica and amino acid powders, - lauroyl lysine, - silica powders, amorphous silica microspheres, micro-beads of silica, - cellulose powders, cellulose balls, - starch powders - crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, coated or not with silicone resin - silicone resin powders (INCI name polymethylsilsesquioxane) - silicone resin / TiO2 powders, - polyurethane and silica powders, - calcium carbonate, - clays

[0170] and mixtures thereof.

[0171] According to a particular embodiment, the filler(s) according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of polyamide powders (e.g. nylon), acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), boron nitride powders, silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, silica powders, cellulose powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, silicone resin powders, starch powders and mixtures thereof, preferably silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0172] The total content of absorbent fillers according to the invention will range in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8% and preferably from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. PIGMENTS

[0173] The composition of the invention further comprises at least one pigment.

[0174] By "pigments" is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0175] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) are in particular chosen from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Among the “mineral pigments”, we can cite, as examples, titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0177] Among the “organic pigments”, we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red n° 19; D & C red n° 9; D & C Red n° 22; D & C Red n° 21; D & C Red n° 28; D & C Yellow n° 6; D & C orange n° 4; D & C orange n° 5; D & C Red n° 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine lakes.

[0178] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oily phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] In particular, the pigment(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition for skin makeup in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, preferably with the INCI name 'Polyurethane-35' or 'Polyurethane-35 and water', in a content ranging from 0.2 to 20%, in particular from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight of dry matter (polyurethane) relative to the total weight of said composition, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, preferably chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicates, silicone acrylate polymers and mixtures thereof, in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) one or more absorbent fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 30ml / 100g, chosen from the group consisting of polyamide powders (e.g. nylon), acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), boron nitride powders, silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, silica powders, cellulose powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, silicone resin powders, starch powders, preferably silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, and their mixture in a total content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8% and preferably from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said com- position

[0181] e) pigments. GALENIC

[0182] The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck and is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0183] The composition is for example in the form of a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, in particular a foundation.

[0184] The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as UV filters, antioxidants, surfactants, gelling agents, preservatives, film-forming polymers, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lightening agents, and mixtures thereof. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0185] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising the application to said keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined previously in the invention.

[0186] In particular, the method is intended to provide improved hold of the makeup over time, in particular under extreme conditions, notably when the composition of the invention is applied to skin that tends to be oily and / or is subjected to hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions, and / or to sweating conditions linked to intensive physical exercise (e.g.: playing a sport).

[0187] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed as % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. EXAMPLES

[0188] The inventors worked to optimize the staying power properties, in particular the staying power of the matte finish, of a foundation emulsion as described below, for better resistance to extreme conditions (e.g. heat / humidity or sports practice).

[0189] [Tables2] Ingredients % Isododecane 14% Silicone resin (lipophilic polymer according to the invention) 9% MA Surfactants 3% Titanium dioxide and iron oxides (pigments) 12% Volatile oil according to the invention 6% Absorbent filler according to the invention 4% Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (hydrophilic polymer according to the invention) 4% MA Glycols 6% Ethanol 8% Preservatives 0.8% Water qsp 100%

[0190] Example 1: Selection of volatile oils suitable for the invention Test protocol:

[0191] 20mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5cm x 5cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. This material is spread with the finger over the entire plate. Then, it is placed in a ventilated enclosure thermostated at 25°C and 50% humidity. For each material, the test is carried out 3 times in order to calculate a standard deviation and have an idea of ​​the repeatability of the method.

[0192] The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes and 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0193] [Math.2] % î BOl» — —X 108

[0194] With mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tl5min, t30min or tôOmin) and mt0 corresponding to the mass applied initially.

[0195] Four volatile oils were tested and compared to a reference oil:

[0196] [Tables3] Oils INCI Name Oil 1 (Reference Oil) CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (70%) / CYCLOHEXASILOXANE (30%) Oil 2 ISODODECANE Oil 3 UNDECANE (65%) / TRIDECANE (35%) Oil 4 VOLATILE PENTACYCLOMETHICONE Oil 5 ISOHEXADECANE

[0197] The results of the mass loss measurement, expressed as a percentage, are presented in Table 4 below:

[0198] [Tables4] Evaporation time (minutes) 0 15 30 60 Oil 1 (reference) Average 0.0% 41.8% 69.2% 90.0% Standard deviation 0.0% 5.1% 4.7% 5.6% Oil 2 Average 0.0% 100.0% 100.0% 100.0% Standard deviation 0.0% 1.1% 0.2% 0.8% Oil 3 Average 0.0% 75.7% 87.9% 99.2% Standard deviation 0.0% 4.7% 4.8% 4.4% Oil 4 Average 0.0% 64.8% 99.7% 100.0% Standard deviation 0.0% 5.3% 1.6% 1.5% Oil 5 Average 0.0% 22.3% 42.2% 76.2% Standard deviation 0.0% 5.1% 7.5% 11.7%

[0199] The results show significant differences in volatility between the five oils tested. ISODODECANE is the most volatile oil of all, having completely evaporated after only 15 minutes of drying.

[0200] As for the linear alkane UNDECANE (65%) / TRIDECANE (35%) and the VOLATILE PENTACYCLOMETHICONE, the evaporation curves are quite close.

[0201] CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (70%) / CYCLOHEXASILOXANE (30%) (oil 1 reference) is less volatile than oils 2, 3 and 4. Even after 60 minutes, there is still some oil left on the PMMA plate. ISOHEXADECANE is less volatile than all the other oils and is considered according to the invention as the lower limit of volatility.

[0202] According to the invention, volatile oil is understood to mean an oil having lost more than 20% by weight of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by weight of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by weight of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the protocol described above.

[0203] Advantageously, the compositions of the invention comprise volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from volatile linear C9-C15 alkanes, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0204] The use of undecane / tridecane is particularly advantageous in a composition of the invention as described in Table 2. Compared to similar compositions comprising volatile silicone oils, it allows an improvement in the adhesion and mattness of the foundation film applied to the skin.

[0205] Example 2: Selection of charges suitable for the invention

[0206] The study aimed to test fillers in a wide range of sebum uptake with a strong preferential affinity for oil, sebum being suspected to be one of the most impactful factors on the staying power of the foundation film. Test protocol:

[0207] - artificial sebum (25% Jojoba oil, 15% squalane and 60% miglyol 829 (CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / SUCCINIC TRIGLYCERIDE) is poured onto 1g of powder (load to be tested); - with the spatula, gently mix in the powder, lightly crushing it, the aim being to obtain a mastic paste that does not crumble and comes off easily; - the result is recorded in ml of artificial sebum per 1g of powder. It must be converted to ml / 100g by multiplying the value read by 100; - the measurement must be carried out twice on each sample, if the difference between these 2 measurements is greater than 0.05ml, a 3rd measurement is carried out.

[0208] The same method is used for water intake, replacing the artificial sebum with demineralized water.

[0209] In practice, we can use:

[0210] - a 10ml burette (precision 0.05 ml) filled with demineralized water for taking in water,

[0211] - a 10 ml burette (accuracy 0.05 ml) filled with artificial sebum as described above for oil intake,

[0212] - a large diameter watch glass, on which 1g of powder is weighed (charge at test)

[0213] - a scale, and

[0214] - a wide flat spatula with a round end.

[0215] The greater the poured volume value, the more water or sebum the filler is capable of absorbing.

[0216] If the filler does not absorb any water at all, it is hydrophobic.

[0217] If the filler does not absorb any sebum at all, it is lipophobic (with respect to this artificial sebum).

[0218] The tested loads and the values ​​obtained are presented in the following table 5: Fillers (commercial reference) INCI Name Oil uptake (mL / 100g) Water uptake (mL / 100g) ORGASOL 2002 DNAT COS NYLON-12 55 105 MAKIBEADS 150 METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PMMA) 175 0 BORON NITRIDE CC6058 BORON NITRIDE 95 105 AMILON SILICA AND AMINO ACID 130 145 AMIHOPE LL MB LAUROYL LYSINE 75 0 RAMIE CELLULOSE POWDER CELLULOSE 75 150 ORGASOL POWDER EXP HCO NYLON-12 in HY- DROGENATED CASTOR OIL 60 0 MK-7 SILICA 245 260 SPHERICA BA-1 SILICA 150 265 RONAFLAIR FLAWLESS SILICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) AND IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) 50 60 RAMIE CELLULOSE POWDER CELLULOSE 75 150 SILK COTTON PW CELLULOSE 120 260 CHIFFONSIL 5T (excluding invention) SILICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE 15 20 COVABEAD CRYSTAL (excluding invention) CALCIUM SODIUM BORO-SILICATE 20 20

[0220] Loads with an oil uptake of less than 30mL / 100g are not retained because they do not absorb enough sebum.

[0221] The absorbent fillers according to the invention must therefore have an oil uptake of at least 30mL / 100g.

[0222] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, charges are used having a capacity of oil intake of at least 30mL / 100g.

[0223] According to a particular embodiment, the loads may also have a water intake capacity of less than 300mL / 100g.

[0224] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, fillers are used having an oil uptake capacity of between 55mL / 100g and 250mL / 100g, and a water uptake capacity of between 0mL / 100g and 170mL / 100g. Example 2: Formulations and performance held

[0225] The compositions illustrated below are prepared according to conventional formulation methods in the cosmetic field. The % are expressed as % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated. 2-1 High-wear water-in-oil foundation

[0226] [Tableauxô] Ingredients % Isododecane (volatile oil) 12.4% Trimethylsiloxysilicate BELSIL TMS 803 (lipophilic film-forming polymer) 9.6% MA PEG-10 dimethicone 3.0% Titanium dioxide and iron oxides 12% Undecane / tridecane (CETIOL Ultimate) (volatile oil) 6.1% SILICA AND AMINO ACID (AMILON ) 4.0% Glycols 6.0% Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (BAYCUSAN 1004] (hydrophilic film-forming polymer) 4.0% MA Alcohol 8.0% Preservatives 0.8% Water qsp 100% 2-2 High-wear water-in-oil foundation

[0227] [Tables?] Ingredients % Isohexadecane 3% Acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer (DC 4004 ID) (lipophilic film-forming polymer) 9.6% MA PEG-10 dimethicone 3.0% Titanium dioxide and iron oxides 12% Dodecane / tetradecane (VEGELIGHT) 15% METHYL METACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (MAKIBEADS 150) 4.0% Glycols 6.0% Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (BAYCUSAN 1004] (hydrophilic film-forming polymer) 4.0% MA Alcohol (ethanol) 8.0% Preservatives 0.8% Water qsp 100% 2-3 High-wear water-in-oil foundation Ingredients % Undecane / tridecane (CETIOL Ultimate) (volatile oil) 7% Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Silform Flexible resin) (lipophilic film-forming polymer) 9.6% MA PEG-10 dimethicone 3.0% Titanium dioxide and iron oxides 12% Undecane / tridecane (CETIOL Ultimate) (volatile oil) 6.1% SILICA AND AMINO ACID (AMILON ) 2.0% LAUROYL LYSINE (AMIHOPE LB) 2.0% Glycols 6.0% Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (BAYCUSAN 1004] (hydrophilic film-forming polymer) 4.0% MA Alcohol (ethanol) 8.0% Preservatives 0.8% Water qsp 100%

[0229]

[0230]

[0231]

[0232] Performance held matte finish Composition 2-2 of the invention was evaluated according to different criteria: - presence of the foundation film (Visia photo under UV light and calculation of the L* parameter using image analysis), - homogeneity of the foundation film (Visia photo under cross-polarized light and calculation of the parameter o76 using image analysis), - mattness of the foundation film (Gloss measurement at 60° with the Glossmeter), - transfer properties of the foundation (Texturometer and image analysis of the colorimetric deviation from the white reference (white cotton), - foundation coverage (Color measurement using a spectrocolor meter). The amount of foundation applied is calibrated. The foundation according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good staying power properties, in particular matte staying power, comfort after application and non-transfer. Performance maintained in extreme conditions Composition 2-2 was also evaluated under extreme conditions, simulating hot and humid atmospheric conditions or sweating conditions related to practicing a sport. Two different tests were carried out based on a panel of 22 women.

[0233] The first test consisted of subjecting the foundation to several 10-minute heat and humidity cycles using a halogen lamp and monitoring its wear over an 8-hour day. For this, the bare-skinned face of the panelist is evaluated in several ways: by clinical evaluation by a dermatologist, by taking a photo and by self-assessment by the panelist. Once the bare-skin evaluation has been carried out, the foundation is applied to the panelist's entire face. Again, the panelist's face is evaluated (at immediate t) using a photo, the dermatologist and self-assessment. Then, the panelist is subjected to 4 heat and humidity cycles occurring at different times: 1h, 3h, 5h and 7h after application of the foundation. The evolution of the foundation is monitored at times t4h, t6h and t8h.

[0234] The second test consists of evaluating the resistance of the foundation in sporting conditions. To do this, after applying the foundation, the women carry out a self-assessment and answer a questionnaire covering different parameters of the applied foundation film. The women then cycle for a period of 30 to 45 minutes and re-evaluate the foundation by carrying out a new self-assessment and answering a second questionnaire. Results associated with hot and humid cycles

[0235] Instrumental measurements show very good hold of the product surface and color intensity for up to 8 hours. The dermatologist's clinical evaluation shows an improvement in the evenness of skin tone and texture, as well as an increase in skin radiance and luminosity of the complexion for up to 8 hours. Finally, the skin is more matte for up to 8 hours. The panelists agree with the dermatologist that the evenness and luminosity of the complexion are improved for up to 8 hours, as well as the perception of a more matte skin for up to 8 hours. Results associated with sporting conditions

[0236] Immediately after applying the foundation, 91% of panelists estimate that their skin is mattified.

[0237] After the sporting activity (45 minutes of cycling), the panelists estimate that:

[0238] “The product has a long-lasting effect” (95% of women);

[0239] “My complexion remains perfect even after my sporting activity” (77% of women);

[0240] “Imperfections and irregularities in the complexion remain corrected even after my activity” (82% of women);

[0241] “The color lasts well, it doesn’t fade after my sporting activity” (86% women);

[0242] “My complexion remains even even after my sporting activity” (77% of women).

[0243] These results obtained under extreme conditions therefore show that the compositions according to the invention in the form of a lipophilic film-forming polymer, an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, as well as absorbent fillers having an oil uptake greater than or equal to 30mL / 100g, in particular greater than or equal to 55mL / 100g, allow for good resistance over time, including under extreme conditions (hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions or intensive sporting practice).

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for skin makeup in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, d) one or more absorbent fillers having an oil uptake of between 55mL / 100g and 250mL / 100g according to the measurement protocol of the description and e) pigments.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a content of non-volatile oils less than or equal to 5%, in particular less than or equal to 2% by weight, or even less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is free of non-volatile oils.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the absorbent fillers are chosen from the group consisting of polyamide powders (e.g. nylon), acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), boron nitride powders, silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, silica powders, cellulose powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, silicone resin powders, starch powders and mixtures thereof, preferably silica and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the total content of absorbent filler(s) ranges from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8% and preferably from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersed polyurethane comprises the reaction products of: A) a prepolymer according to the formula [Chem.l] in which RI represents a bivalent radical of a dihydroxyl compound, in particular a hydrocarbon radical derived from a polyester polyol, and in particular from a polyester diol, R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical derived from an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate, R3 represents a hydrocarbon radical derived from a low molecular weight diol, optionally substituted by ionic groups, n is from 0 to 5, and m is > 1; B) at least one chain extender according to the formula: [Chem. 2] in which R4 represents an alkylene or alkylene oxide radical unsubstituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups; and C) at least one chain extender according to the formula: [Chem. 3] HiH-Rs-HHî in which R5 represents an alkylene radical substituted by ionic or potentially ionic groups.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that - the radical RI is obtained by (poly)condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid with at least one diol, said dicarboxylic acid preferably being chosen from adipic acid, the diol preferably being chosen from hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; - the radical R2 is derived from an aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanate, and in particular a diisocyanate chosen from 1,6-hexamethylenediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate and dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof; - the radical R3 comes from neopentyl glycol; - the chain extender according to formula Chem.2 is chosen from ethylenediamine, diethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and - the chain extender according to formula Chem.3 is chosen from diaminosulfonates, and preferably is the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl 1)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the dispersed polyurethane is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 20%, in particular from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 10%, more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a silicone hydrophobic film-forming polymer chosen from the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicates, phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group preferably comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilses-quioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, preferably trimethylsiloxysilicates.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from the group consisting of isododecane, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 13 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

11. Cosmetic process for making up the skin comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. Cosmetic process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition is applied to skin with a tendency to be oily and / or skin subjected to hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions, and / or sweating conditions linked to intensive physical exercise.